Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[NSM]

"Gloria" <gc150@ureach.com> wrote in message
news:2a7703c1.0410050718.7f67555e@posting.google.com...
| "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
news:<ugp8d.26668$N%.20606@edtnps84>...
| > "Gloria" <gc150@ureach.com> wrote in message
| > news:2a7703c1.0410041957.b02fb77@posting.google.com...
| > | Hi, I got caught in the rain and my discman got wet. Now it doesn't
| > | turn on. I did open it and waited for it to dry. I wanted to learn
| > | how to fix it but I don't know where to start. Are there certain
| > | tools I need? Should I just pick up a book in the library? Or is it
| > | even worth trying? I've never really repaired anything electronic
| > | before. I mostly fix computers but that seems easy compared to fixing
| > | this. Thanks in advance!
| >
| > I knocked over a cup of tea with milk and sugar and flooded out my
portable
| > CD player. I cracked open the case and soaked the whole thing in warm
water
| > and baking soda, rinsed it out and left it to dry for a few days. Still
| > works fine.
| >
| > N
|
| Wow, that's awesome. I'll give that a try and if it's a lost cause
| then there's no harm trying. Thanks so much for the advice!
|
| -G

This was a common way to repair transistor radios that were dropped in salt
water. Replace the speaker and you're done. Doesn't always work, but it's
better than nothing.

N

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

cshoyo@us.es (Carlos Soria) writes:

Any clues about how to find those 'standary parts'?

Not specifically but if you search the major manufacturers of laser
diodes like Hitachi, Sony, Mitsubishi, etc., they may have datasheets
on their Web sites or available by asking.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header is ignored.
To contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

Thank you.

Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message news:<6wu0t6rtrd.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu>...
"Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com> writes:

This would be from the manufacture only, if they would give out this
type of information, without you being a manufacture contractor for
them.

Generally, and very basically speaking, I know that a few of the pins
are for the power. There are a number of them for the data I/O, and a
few for the bias drive and or bias reference drive for the laser.

If you were to purchase or get a copy of the service manual for the
player it came out of, you may be able to decipher the pins
configuration, but they may not give any more details than what is
required to troubleshoot and do the alignment of the player.

You could probably figure this out on the older pickups with separate
laser diode and photodiode array, and the focus and tracking coils.

But on the new ones with a single integrated hybrid circuit having
the laser and photodiodes in a single package, it is more difficult.

However, some of these are standary parts for which datasheets exist on
the Web.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

John Woodgate <jmw@jmwa.demon.contraspam.yuk> writes:

I read in sci.electronics.design that James Sweet
jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote (in <1Go9d.12392$na.2379@trnddc04&gt about
'Compact fluorescent light failures', on Fri, 8 Oct 2004:

I think the only US made CFL's these days are LOA which are made very
poorly, likely to compete in price.

What about GE?

Most of mine are GE spiral except for one that looks like GE with a
generic brand. Except for the one I dropped (and it's schematic is
in the FAQs, thank you!), they have been reliable with no failures
so far. However, I only use them in fixtures that tend to be on
for multiple hours a day, but not in the bathroom.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header is ignored.
To contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

 

[John Woodgate]

I read in sci.electronics.design that Sam Goldwasser
<sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote (in <6wu0t5csgx.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu&gt
about 'Compact fluorescent light failures', on Fri, 8 Oct 2004:

John Woodgate <jmw@jmwa.demon.contraspam.yuk> writes:

I read in sci.electronics.design that James Sweet
jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote (in <1Go9d.12392$na.2379@trnddc04&gt about
'Compact fluorescent light failures', on Fri, 8 Oct 2004:

I think the only US made CFL's these days are LOA which are made very
poorly, likely to compete in price.

What about GE?

Most of mine are GE spiral except for one that looks like GE with a
generic brand. Except for the one I dropped (and it's schematic is in
the FAQs, thank you!), they have been reliable with no failures so far.
However, I only use them in fixtures that tend to be on for multiple
hours a day, but not in the bathroom.

I asked because I shall be meeting my GE colleague next week, and I
don't have to pass on bad news. (;-)
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
The good news is that nothing is compulsory.
The bad news is that everything is prohibited.
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

 

[jakdedert]

Jerry G. wrote:

Check the power supply performance, and also check that the fans are
working properly. Farther than this, you will have to get deep in to
it with the service manuals, and having the experience and tools to
service it.

If it is not something simple, you will most likely have to send it to
the Sanyo service centre to have it properly repaired. Most of their
servicing is done at the board exchange level, and then they do the
calibration of the boards that they change, if necessary.

Is there an hours counter that you must reset on that particular model,
after changing lamps?

jak

 

[jakdedert]

Andy Cuffe wrote:

On Thu, 07 Oct 2004 10:52:33 -0400, "Peter E. Orban"
peter.orban@nrc.ca> wrote:

Hi Everyone,

We replaced most of our incandescent light bulbs with compact
fluorescent bulbs about a year and a half ago (it was before the NA
blackout last year). The bulbs are holding up fine, except in the
bathrooms, and I am wondering what could be the reason.


There could be several reasons for the high failure rate.

Are the problem bulbs the same type as the ones in the rest of the
house? I've noticed a huge difference in reliability from model to
model. Some experience electronic failures long before the tube fails
and others keep working even after the tube has become too dim to be
useful. Price can be a good indication of quality, but not always.
I've got a pair of $1 IKEA branded lamps in an enclosed fixture that's
turned on for at least 12 hours a day. It's been over a year and
they're still working fine.

Another thing that can kill them is excessive heat. Lamps that are in
enclosed fixtures will fail much sooner than ones that are completely
in the open. I'm sure moisture doesn't help either.

Finally, they don't like being turned on and off a lot. Since
bathroom lights tend to be used for short periods many times a day
this could be a factor.
Andy Cuffe
baltimora@psu.edu

The one thing I haven't seen mentioned in this entire thread is the
possiblility of moisture being a factor. Certainly there is a lot of that
in a bathroom. The few CFL's I've disassembled did not seem to have much
vapor protection.

jak

 

[Robert Redelmeier]

In comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.chips keith <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote:

I'm quite sure Robert got it. He knows my silliness well

Entirely too well! I'm convinced you were either trying
to demonstrate prior art or "obvious to a skilled practioner
in the art" to invalidate the LED patent, and show the
general silliness of most patents.

(though may not admit it

Why not play the straight man?

-- Robert

 

[jakdedert]

Wayne Tiffany wrote:

So what's the fix for the camcorder?

Same as the DVD: remove and reseat all the ribbons. I thought I made that

clear....?

I guess not.

jak

WT

"jakdedert" <jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:axz9d.191377$Np2.143928@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
Rich wrote:
Hi All,

This multiformat DVD,CD Audio, SVCD, etc format, plays all formats
except the proper DVD.

When DVD disk is inserted, it keeps searching and returns noPLAY.
Tried several DVD's to make sure.
Tried a VCD and worked fine. Audio CD's play fine too.

The unit is still under Panasonic parts warranty, but the labor may
be more than the cost of new unit.

Anyone seen this happen?

I had the opposite problem on a Magnovox unit. It was intermittant
for about six months before it quit playing CD's, but continued to
play DVD's normally. Eventually even that failed.

Turned out to be (I think) poorly seated ribbon cables...or
cleaning. I don't know which, because I did both operations at one
sitting...opened it up and reseated every ribbon I could find, in
addition to cleaning the lense. Over a year now...no problems
whatsoever. Given the intermittant nature of the symptoms--and the
complete alleviation thereof--I lean more toward the cables being
the source; since the environment has not changed at all.

I also have a very old Magnovox full-sized VHS camcorder (bought
used, over ten years ago) which fails entirely every two or three
years. The same treatment has always restored it's full
functionality, although it's in need of attention again....

jak
Regards,

Rich

 

[Bill]

In article <49f8a664.0410081108.e4bb71d@posting.google.com>,
numanracing@tiscali.co.uk says...

I would like some help on increasing the magnetic strength of some
magnets in some d.c motors. The motors are small 540 size,
approximately two inches long and inch and a quarter in diameter with
two half moon magnets inside approx 4mm thick. How can I increase
their strength? As far as I know they are ferrite? magnets, I know
they are definately not rare earth magnets.

I believe the usual method is to take a large DC electromagnet,
build a pole structure on it to focus the field where you want
it, and whack it with a big pulse of current.

 

[JohnAce]

Do a Google search on this and you should beable to bypass the PIP altogether.

 

[keith]

On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 17:13:19 +0000, Robert Redelmeier wrote:

In comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.chips keith <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote:
I'm quite sure Robert got it. He knows my silliness well

Entirely too well! I'm convinced you were either trying
to demonstrate prior art or "obvious to a skilled practioner
in the art" to invalidate the LED patent, and show the
general silliness of most patents.

Naw, just busting chops. I would *never* demonstrate such! I have such
"silliness" and a few more in the pipe. It's a profitable endeavor. ;-)

(though may not admit it

Why not play the straight man?

Ok, perhaps I will some day! ;-)

--
Keith

 

[Hugh Prescott]

Not compatible but I have seen an adapter that would let you use T&M 500 and
5000 modules in a 7000 scope.

Quite sure there was lota of pin crossovers on the pcb.

If you download or have the T&M 500--505 manuel you will have the
information to use the protype module.

In the 70' I used one to make a plugin digital volt meter to fit in a 5000
storage scope.

Just recently purchased some T & M stuff and reclaimed the protype module
for a different use.

There is a Tekscopes yahoo group with several retired Tek employees as
members.

Hugh


"Norm Dresner" <ndrez@att.net> wrote in message
newsvF9d.512295$OB3.24515@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

Does anyone have a URL for, or direct knowledge of, information on the
interchangeability of various Tektronix plug-in series?

I own a TM504 mainframe and a couple of plug-ins. I've also found a
virgin,
blank plug-in for DIY construction. I also see a very wide range of
plug-in
series, 5Lxx and 7Lxx come to mind which I believe are for the 5000 & 7000
oscilloscope mainframes (but I'm really not sure). Do any of these
plug-ins
either electrically or mechanically fit the 50x mainframes?

TIA
Norm

 

[keith]

On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 05:35:32 +0000, NSM wrote:

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jcp9d.5644$eq1.2343@trnddc08...

| Lightning can cause some very bizarre failures indeed. I had a USR modem
| years ago that failed after a nearby lightning strike (rare here) and the
| problem turned out to be a 10 ohm surface mount resistor with a crater in
| it. Replaced it with a normal resistor and it worked fine until it was
| retired years later.

What most people think is caused by lightning is really caused by induction.
A direct lightning strike will turn your computer etc. into a pile of
bubbling slag. A strike near the phone line causing induction elsewhere will
zap things in very odd ways.

Not really. Most of the lightning damage is caused by ground currents
going where you don't want them to go. A strike on a tree in the back
yard can fry all electronics in the house ifthe grounds aren't done
right. There should only be *one* ground (floating boats theory) and if
there must be more they must all be bonded together with some serious
conductors (see: floating boats).

--
Keith

 

[NSM]

"keith" <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote in message
newsan.2004.10.09.02.13.52.928793@att.bizzzz...
| On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 05:35:32 +0000, NSM wrote:
....
| > What most people think is caused by lightning is really caused by
induction.
| > A direct lightning strike will turn your computer etc. into a pile of
| > bubbling slag. A strike near the phone line causing induction elsewhere
will
| > zap things in very odd ways.
|
| Not really. Most of the lightning damage is caused by ground currents
| going where you don't want them to go. A strike on a tree in the back
| yard can fry all electronics in the house ifthe grounds aren't done
| right. There should only be *one* ground (floating boats theory) and if
| there must be more they must all be bonded together with some serious
| conductors (see: floating boats).

Yes. Induction.

N

 

[keith]

On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 02:34:47 +0000, NSM wrote:

"keith" <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote in message
newsan.2004.10.09.02.13.52.928793@att.bizzzz...
| On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 05:35:32 +0000, NSM wrote:
...
| > What most people think is caused by lightning is really caused by
induction.
| > A direct lightning strike will turn your computer etc. into a pile of
| > bubbling slag. A strike near the phone line causing induction elsewhere
will
| > zap things in very odd ways.
|
| Not really. Most of the lightning damage is caused by ground currents
| going where you don't want them to go. A strike on a tree in the back
| yard can fry all electronics in the house ifthe grounds aren't done
| right. There should only be *one* ground (floating boats theory) and if
| there must be more they must all be bonded together with some serious
| conductors (see: floating boats).

Yes. Induction.

No, *NOT* induction! It's simple resistance. You simply don't want to
be in the middle. The idea is to float, like a boat.

--
Keith

 

[Aslaner]

I don't think that you can do much, it is all pre configured at the
manufacture with the metal itself the density of the particles etc, sure
you make it look like is holding a charge for a little period of time but it
is about all, it will return to its original magnetism.
There is saturation point after which you will be wasting your time.
The smaller/stronger one are made that way not just charged that way. It
took years of development to get to that point.


I believe so anyway, I could be slightly wrong but not that far.


"NumanR" <numanracing@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:49f8a664.0410081108.e4bb71d@posting.google.com...

I would like some help on increasing the magnetic strength of some
magnets in some d.c motors. The motors are small 540 size,
approximately two inches long and inch and a quarter in diameter with
two half moon magnets inside approx 4mm thick. How can I increase
their strength? As far as I know they are ferrite? magnets, I know
they are definately not rare earth magnets.

 

[James Sweet]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wu0t5csgx.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...

John Woodgate <jmw@jmwa.demon.contraspam.yuk> writes:

I read in sci.electronics.design that James Sweet
jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote (in <1Go9d.12392$na.2379@trnddc04&gt about
'Compact fluorescent light failures', on Fri, 8 Oct 2004:

I think the only US made CFL's these days are LOA which are made very
poorly, likely to compete in price.

What about GE?

Most of mine are GE spiral except for one that looks like GE with a
generic brand. Except for the one I dropped (and it's schematic is
in the FAQs, thank you!), they have been reliable with no failures
so far. However, I only use them in fixtures that tend to be on
for multiple hours a day, but not in the bathroom.

I have some 26W ones I got off Ebay, I think they're branded Titan in the
bathroom, they've been fine so far but the fixture is not fully enclosed and
I always turn on the vent fan when I shower.

 

[MarkC]

I just did a PIP bypass today. You need to use 2 capacitors because just
using the one bipolar cap doesn't always work.
Desolder the blue VP connector & remove. Solder a .01 disc cap in holes
7 & 9.  
Then solder a 4.7/35v electrolytic cap in holes 5 & 11 with the negative
lead going in hole 11. While you're at it also ESR the VOUT
electrolytics especially the 100uf & 220uf. I usually just replace
(unless they've recently been replaced) these because even if they read
good they could be on their way out


"I have this 27" Mitsubishi Tv and I read about the PIP board and have
heard a couple different things. I am interested in trying what this
post at the end of the thread here says about disabling the PIP board.
If I am reading it correctly I can get rid of the stupid pip board by
removing it and soldering a single cap to the mainboard. I don't know
why I haven't seen more posts stating this and wanted to make sure it
was correct. Also does anyone know where I can get the specific
capacitor the guy mentions there?
##############################################
#
These are the caps that are known to go bad (some will go bad before
others). They are all surface mount types & they are: C7001, 7003, 7011,
7014, 7015, 7016, 7020, 7021, 7023, 7026 & 7036. You can usually see
where the bad ones are because they will be leaking. Make sure to clean
up the leakage because sometimes it will eat away the trace under the
cap (which is known to happen under C7001). These surface mount caps can
be tricky to remove & if you're not careful you can pull up a trace &
break it.
If you (or your customer) don't use the PIP feature then you can bypass
it by removing the PIP module & soldering a 47mfd 50v bi-polar
electrolytic cap between pins 5 & 11 of the VP male connector on the
main PCB (I usually remove the VP male connector & then install the cap
in holes 5 & 11). Do not just push the leads of the cap into the holes
of the VP connecter because it won't hold up long term. Mark
#
##############################################

 

[Norm Dresner]

"mike" <spamme0@juno.com> wrote in message news:41675D48.9000300@juno.com...

Norm Dresner wrote:
Does anyone have a URL for, or direct knowledge of, information on the
interchangeability of various Tektronix plug-in series?

I own a TM504 mainframe and a couple of plug-ins. I've also found a
virgin,
blank plug-in for DIY construction. I also see a very wide range of
plug-in
series, 5Lxx and 7Lxx come to mind which I believe are for the 5000 &
7000
oscilloscope mainframes (but I'm really not sure). Do any of these
plug-ins
either electrically or mechanically fit the 50x mainframes?

TIA
Norm


The short answer is no.

The 5000 series scopes and the TM500 use the same mechanical package.
They're keyed so they won't interchange, but the keys are plastic and
they wear on the fiberglass board and eventually break, defeating the
key. If you cross plug the series, you'll make a LOT of smoke.

The 5000 and 7000 series scopes have some interface similarities.
The power supply voltages are different.
I once considered making an adapter to make a 5CT1 into a 7CT1.
Needed voltage regulators in the adapter.
A 576 fell into my lap, so the project got aborted.
mike

--

As long as the 5000 series plug-ins will mechanically fit the TM50x
mainframe, I have a source for cheap "blanks" in which I can make a bunch of
things I need ... I paid almost as much for the blank kit I bought last week
as I have for some of the plug-ins.

Are the 7xxx packages mechanically similar to the 5xx ones?

Thanks to everyone for the info.

Norm

 

[Jerry G.]

Personally, I feel you should not repair this yourself. About 20 years
ago, when I was working in Sony servicing, I repaired a fair number of
sets in this series. It is too long for me to remember particular
details.

In considering the age of the set, after being serviced, there is a
chance to have other parts going defective soon after. As for the parts,
I would doubt very much that Sony would still be able to supply them.

Going by your description, the flyback and horizontal output transistor
will have to be replaced just to start with. There is a proper procedure
for replacing these parts, some of which is beyond what can be easily
described in an email.

At the same time as servicing the set, the original cause of the failure
must be determined, if there are other defective parts they also must be
replaced, or other defects serviced.

Once the set is working, the high voltage must be measured, and if it is
out of specs, procedures must be take to correct it. The main power
supply, and X-Ray protection must also be verified to be working
properly. There may be some necessary adjustments for the scans and pin
amp sections as well.

For this type of repair, the service manual, and proper tools is a must
to do it properly. If the tech has done a number of this model type,
then he may know off hand what to do without the service manual.

If you simply slap in a new flyback and horizontal output transistor
without doing the proper checks and adjustments, these parts may be
damaged very soon after. There are also a few very important safety
issues when doing this type of work! Also, many of the capacitors in
this set would be very high in their ESR rating, and have to be
replaced. This is also going to add to the cost of servicing the set.

I personally would retire this set, and start shopping around for a new
set. Your set will not be inexpensive to service, if the parts can be
found. In the new sets, the Sony and Panasonic sets are my preference.
Also, take a look at the new LCD TV sets that are getting very popular.
The pictures on these are striking!

--

Jerry G.
======

"Marc" <dbacks@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:20e8027b.0410051231.568f4f54@posting.google.com...
OK, all of you experienced tv repair gurus, I am a novice, so take it
easy on me if I do not get the terminology exactly right...

I have a Sony KV-1952RS Trinitron Television that I purchased new in
1983. (please don't laugh)

Until a few nights ago, this television has been great, with
outstanding color and reception.

Here is what happened...

I turned it on and it played for about an hour, then it started
smoking.

I unplugged it immediately, and the first chance that I got, I pulled
the back off to see if there was anything obvious that might be
repaired.

The area that showed signs of smoke and burnt material, was part
number, 1-439-254-12, (2M13M) (flyback transformer)

I have never opened a television, so I do not know what this part is
supposed to look like when it is new, but there is an "L" shaped
cylindrical metal rod on one side of the flyback transformer.

Judging by the "burnt" material, it appears that there was, at one
time, some sort of insulation, or coating on this rod. I am not sure
how this rod was attached to the flyback transformer, but
it was just sitting on the flyback transformer, and lifted off.

I'm guessing that (at the very least) that the flyback transformer is
burnt, but I am wondering if something else might have caused this
part to burn up? sort of a "chain reaction"???

Oddly enough, (at least to me) neither fuse was blown. I checked them
both, and they are the correct size. (so NO over fusing)

I do not have the solder expertise to de-solder and replace this part,
but I do have a couple of friends that are proficient enough to handle
the job.

I know that this is probably an elementary question/problem for some
of you guys, but, like I said, I am a novice.

I would really like to resurrect this set if it is not too costly.

So, any and all comments are welcome, and greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance,

Marc