Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Wayne Tiffany wrote:
Oh, sorry. I read it as the same thing you do to the camcorder each
time fixes it, not that the same thing you do to the DVD player fixes
the camcorder. Thanks.

Do you have a dead one? In my case it was desparation. I wasn't gonna
Click to expand...
spend any money on the old relic, but the kids use it occasionally; and it's
nice to be able to pop a tape out of it which works immediately in anyone's
VCR. We had an important annual family party that particular night, and the
wife really wanted a record of it...so I pulled the myriad of screws that
hold it together and looked for obvious flaws.

Seeing none, I decided to go ahead and perform the process of reseating
everything (just in case) and voila': functional machine...few years later
it died again, I went through the same process (this time I cleaned the tape
path as well--being fairly confident that it would work), and again
everything worked fine.

It needs it again....

jak



WT

"jakdedert" <jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:97A9d.191586$Np2.71971@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
Wayne Tiffany wrote:
So what's the fix for the camcorder?

Same as the DVD: remove and reseat all the ribbons. I thought I
made that clear....?

I guess not.

jak

WT

"jakdedert" <jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:axz9d.191377$Np2.143928@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
Rich wrote:
Hi All,

This multiformat DVD,CD Audio, SVCD, etc format, plays all formats
except the proper DVD.

When DVD disk is inserted, it keeps searching and returns noPLAY.
Tried several DVD's to make sure.
Tried a VCD and worked fine. Audio CD's play fine too.

The unit is still under Panasonic parts warranty, but the labor
may be more than the cost of new unit.

Anyone seen this happen?

I had the opposite problem on a Magnovox unit. It was intermittant
for about six months before it quit playing CD's, but continued to
play DVD's normally. Eventually even that failed.

Turned out to be (I think) poorly seated ribbon cables...or
cleaning. I don't know which, because I did both operations at one
sitting...opened it up and reseated every ribbon I could find, in
addition to cleaning the lense. Over a year now...no problems
whatsoever. Given the intermittant nature of the symptoms--and the
complete alleviation thereof--I lean more toward the cables being
the source; since the environment has not changed at all.

I also have a very old Magnovox full-sized VHS camcorder (bought
used, over ten years ago) which fails entirely every two or three
years. The same treatment has always restored it's full
functionality, although it's in need of attention again....

jak
Regards,

Rich
Click to expand...
 
On Sun, 10 Oct 2004 12:18:20 -0400, Chuck Harris
<cf-NO-SPAM-harris@erols.com> wrote:

It is my understanding that a lightning rod provides a statistical cone of
protection that is approximately the same diameter at the base as the rod
is high. To protect my 65 foot long house would require a rod that is
around 150 feet high, and right next to the chimney. Or perhaps 2 rods
100 feet high on either end of the house.
Click to expand...
Hmm i read in the newspaper once that some university expert says it
was a 30 degrees cone, so that would make it even taller no? :ppPp

--
L.Angel: I'm looking for web design work.
If you need basic to med complexity webpages at affordable rates, email me :)
Standard HTML, SHTML, MySQL + PHP or ASP, Javascript.
If you really want, FrontPage & DreamWeaver too.
But keep in mind you pay extra bandwidth for their bloated code
 
Never use alcohol to clean anything.

I work on alot of new DVD players ( store returns ) of all kinds and
maybe 1% work after a lens cleaning .

Having so many on hand i try switching lazor assemblies and that normaly
fixes the problem .. other times its the driver board
 
have never seen the PS go on one of these before. Did you check the fuse?
Usually if you see alot of Toner in there esp on the Corona, it means it
really needs a good complete internal cleaning. Try Air in a Can to blast
out the loose toner, but do not breathe any of it in.

If still nothing , try posting here, its a very helpful board:

http://www.smarka.com/



"Bob W" <bobwarasila@lswpub.com> wrote in message
news:c4694ee7.0410100747.691d6923@posting.google.com...
| Thanks for your suggestion. I just carefully cleaned the corona wire
| on the copier bed. Removed a lot of toner from the shiny metal trough
| and made sure there was no toner on the wire. I than ran the cleaner
| brush through the cartridge. Still nothing at all appearing on the
| paper. I'm still suspecting the HV. Is there an easy way to test
| the supply?
|
| Bob
|
| "Cobalt" <spam@linhax.com> wrote in message
news:<IsedncM6BIieOPXcRVn-uA@adelphia.com>...
| > Check the Corona Wire, it has a habit of getting dirty full of toner,
and if
| > that happens usually it wont transfer the image.
| >
| >
| > "Bob W" <bobwarasila@lswpub.com> wrote in message
| > news:c4694ee7.0410090849.44bff8ba@posting.google.com...
| > | I've had this copier for a number of years but this summer when the
| > | humidity was high it took several passes through to get a decent copy.
| > | Now the air is dryer but it won't copy at all. I'm wondering if
| > | there is a HV supply that is dead? Is anyone familiar with this
| > | machine?
| > |
| > | Bob
 
The little lost angel wrote:

It is my understanding that a lightning rod provides a statistical cone of
protection that is approximately the same diameter at the base as the rod
is high. To protect my 65 foot long house would require a rod that is
around 150 feet high, and right next to the chimney. Or perhaps 2 rods
100 feet high on either end of the house.


Hmm i read in the newspaper once that some university expert says it
was a 30 degrees cone, so that would make it even taller no? :ppPp
Click to expand...
Could be, but I would suppose it depends on where you set your probability
threshold. 50%? 80%? 90%?...

The only place where there is a 100% probability of protection is inside
the ground wire, which would correspond to a zero degree cone. My point is
that just having a lightning rod up high somewhere, doesn't necessarily mean
you should expect it will protect your house.

The Navy found that the best protection was afforded by having a horizontal
ground wire over the top of the building to be protected. But again, you
had to put the wire up high enough so it gave you a "tent" with a comfortable
probability of protection from a strike.

I don't think I can talk my wife into allowing such a system.

-Chuck Harris
 
"Fred McKenzie" bravely wrote to "All" (09 Oct 04 15:36:00)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: remagnetising old magnets"

FM> From: fmmck@aol.com (Fred McKenzie)

FM> << There is saturation point after which you will be wasting your
FM> time. The smaller/stronger one are made that way not just charged that
way. >>
FM> Aslaner, Bill & NumanR-

FM> I believe you are correct that there is a saturation point, but the
FM> alloys are not naturally magnetized. They are "charged" in a machine
FM> that works about the way Bill described.

FM> The question is whether or not the magnets were magnetized to a point
FM> beyond their saturation point. If so, then the field would have
FM> eventually ended up at some maximum stable value. However, they may
FM> not have been magnetized to saturation, or there may have been some
FM> condition such as mechanical shock, that caused the field to be
FM> reduced. In either case, it may be possible to increase the magnet's
FM> strength using the magnetization process.
FM> One thing that might go wrong, is a field reversal caused by the
FM> magnetizing field (or current) being backwards. You have a 50-50
FM> chance of getting it right!

It is a little hard to identify magnetic polarity of a magnet. I'm not
sure but the Earth's own North Pole is actually a magnet south and
will attract a magnet negative. So using a "magnetic compass" actually
finds the south on a magnet. Is this right?

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Reactance: your imaginary friend.
 
In comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.chips keith <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote:
glass-encapsulated diode from his pile-o-parts, bent the
leads about 3/4" apart and grabbed it with long-nosed pliers.
He then shoved it into the mains outlet and sure enough it lit
up, and quite brightly too! He did make some comment about
his reliability problems, or some such. I just about PMP. ;-)
Click to expand...
Well, OK. But now traffic engineers are installing LED traffic
light replacement bulbs specifically _for_ reliability? :)

Daisy chain a dozen or so LEDs all facing one way, and plug it in.
Face another set the other way. Parallel as many as you need for
brightness. Nicely vibration resistant.

-- Robert
 
:) Thanks for that, but should I just take the entire power supply right
out of the VCR to test it, or should I try to do it within the VCR
first? The only problem is half of it seems to be mounted in a
hard-to-get-to tin box x.x :(

thanks

ljones
 
"gsl" <novascrollerNOSPAM@inherentsys.ca> wrote in message
news:416a592f.2845193@nntp.inherentsys.net...
| anyone out there have a schematic for this signal generator they would
| be willing to share?????

Did you check BAMA ?

N
 
"Sidney" <sidneybek@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:fecdbb87.0410110403.51cd3383@posting.google.com...
| I now use my TEK465 oscilloscope's calibration output to generate
| ringing pulses to test flybacks,yokes,transformers and video heads.I
| also now use it to test ESR on electroyltic capacitors but would like
| to build a simple and effective way to test transistors,diodes and
| resistors like maybe a curve tracer or use my oscilloscope to test
| them.
| Anyone have a simple effective design for a curve tracer either a
| stand alone device or using my TEK465 oscilloscope?.Thanks in advance.

See if your local library has a collection of electronics magazines. You'll
have to go back about 20 years or more, but there were some designs
published. US "Radio Electronics" or UK "Wireless World" or Elektor would be
good places to look. Some tech colleges have libraries also.

N
 
<< Ok we are not allowed to use rare earth magnets in any form, there are
two machines which i know about one is an electro magnet using 12v dc
feed and presumably a capacitor, and the other is a box which is not
powered which presumably has a high strength magnet inside. >>

NumanR-

I can see where either method would top-off the magnets.

It may not be worth mentioning, but I wonder if adding a coil of wire around
the magnet, wired in series with the battery, would increase the motor's torque
at slow speed? At slower speed I would expect current to be higher, which
would aid the magnet if polarity was correct.

Would such a modification be legal?

Fred
 
"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message news:Ityad.2989$z96.1355@clgrps12...
"Sidney" <sidneybek@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:fecdbb87.0410110403.51cd3383@posting.google.com...
| I now use my TEK465 oscilloscope's calibration output to generate
| ringing pulses to test flybacks,yokes,transformers and video heads.I
| also now use it to test ESR on electroyltic capacitors but would like
| to build a simple and effective way to test transistors,diodes and
| resistors like maybe a curve tracer or use my oscilloscope to test
| them.
| Anyone have a simple effective design for a curve tracer either a
| stand alone device or using my TEK465 oscilloscope?.Thanks in advance.

See if your local library has a collection of electronics magazines.
You'll
have to go back about 20 years or more, but there were some designs
published. US "Radio Electronics" or UK "Wireless World" or Elektor would
be
good places to look. Some tech colleges have libraries also.

N


A simple curve tracer at http://www.intio.or.jp/jf10zl/trct.htm
Click to expand...

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just subsitute the appropriate characters in
the address)

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!
 
"Don Klipstein" <don@manx.misty.com> wrote in message
news:slrncmm15c.s5g.don@manx.misty.com...
....
| My main complaint of dollar store CFLs, however, is exaggerated claims
| of light output. None of my 22 "models" matched nor exceeded the light
| output of a 40 watt "soft white" incandescent, rated 445 lumens. Some of
| these claimed to replace incandescents of 125 watts. One claimed 1130
| lumens.
| Another complaint of dollar store CFLs is that most are bluish
| "daylight" in color, including some in packages saying "SUN Lighting" and
| some in packages that say "Soft warm white light". A majority of the few
| of my dollar store CFLs that actually had a "warm" color had a color more
| purplish than other "warm" CFLs and also had a low color rendering index.
|
| - Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

Ain't that the truth? But considering the source (China) and the price I
guess they're still a good deal. After all, Leno makes jokes about dollar
store items regularly.

N
 
On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 00:07:48 -0400, Chuck Harris wrote:

The little lost angel wrote:

It is my understanding that a lightning rod provides a statistical cone of
protection that is approximately the same diameter at the base as the rod
is high. To protect my 65 foot long house would require a rod that is
around 150 feet high, and right next to the chimney. Or perhaps 2 rods
100 feet high on either end of the house.


Hmm i read in the newspaper once that some university expert says it
was a 30 degrees cone, so that would make it even taller no? :ppPp


Could be, but I would suppose it depends on where you set your probability
threshold. 50%? 80%? 90%?...

The only place where there is a 100% probability of protection is inside
the ground wire, which would correspond to a zero degree cone. My point is
that just having a lightning rod up high somewhere, doesn't necessarily mean
you should expect it will protect your house.

The Navy found that the best protection was afforded by having a horizontal
ground wire over the top of the building to be protected. But again, you
had to put the wire up high enough so it gave you a "tent" with a comfortable
probability of protection from a strike.

I don't think I can talk my wife into allowing such a system.
Click to expand...

Chuck, Chuck, Chuck, you obviously haven't tried hard enough. L'Angel is
giving you the ammunition. Tell SWMBO that another of her half agrees
with you. Build that 400' tow^h^h^hlightning arrestor; her life may
depend on it! ...but watch the blinkin' lights. ;-)
-Chuck Harris
Click to expand...
 
I happen to have the same model, and I have also, just happened
to have developed the exact same problem, just this past week.
When power supply cable is connected to convergence board "no
go" only a flicker on the power led. For some time I have had to
leave the set on all the time because I would have trouble
turning on. The problem seems to have progressed. I did find bad
solder joints on the 7812 and 7912 where the 15 volts first
comes in and gets knocked down to 12, but other than that there
don't seem to be any shorts. The board is killing the 15 volts.
I'm going to try cutting some of the (W jumpers) to see if I can
isolate the problem area

Please let me know if you find anything else Jason D.
I will likewise post my findings.

DWebster

----------------------------------------------
Posted with NewsLeecher v1.0 beta 26
* Binary Usenet Leeching Made Easy
* http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet
----------------------------------------------
 
Look for capacitors in the vertical deflection area that have become
high in ESR. Or, replace all the caps in that section if you cannot
properly test them.

If you are starting to have bad caps in the vertical amp section, it is
possible that there are others in the rest of the set, that are starting
to also go bad.

--

Jerry G.
======

"Jim" <lancione@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:fefdb778.0410112004.714cbce9@posting.google.com...
Hey guys,
I have a 1992 Panasonic PC-29XF10A 27" TV.

Since about 2 days ago, a ~2" black bar appeared at the bottom of the
picture and the remaining picture on top of that is compressed
(squashed) vertically.

Does anybody have an idea of what components went? And how to figure
out which ones to replace?

Haven't repaired any TV's so I am a bit lost when looking inside of
one, so if anyone can help me in terms of physically locating the area
that went, that would be great. Or if anyone has a diagram or
component #'s for that specific model, that would be even better.

Thanks guys,
Jim
 
NSM wrote:
"Chuck Harris" <cf-NO-SPAM-harris@erols.com> wrote in message
news:r4-dnUqY07Sz_vrcRVn-gg@rcn.net...

| Brings to mind an interesting question. Out here in well and septic
| country, the code authorities make us ground the electrical system with
| a UFER ground (copper wire buried in concrete, buried in the ground).
| But they also make us ground our well pumps to the steel well casing.
|
| Which gives us.... competing grounds with different ground potentials.
|
| I wonder how much trouble that causes with lightning?

I'd certainly want to bond the well to the UFER ground system. IME any
system with different grounds allowing potential differences is dangerous.
Click to expand...
It is bonded back at the service panel with a #10ga copper wire. The pipe
to the well is plastic.

The last time we got a direct hit by lightning, the water changed its tint
for several days. It went from grey, to yellow/orange. We lost a chunk of
terracotta flue liner on that one, and several appliances.

-Chuck
 
PaPaPeng wrote:
On 9 Oct 2004 09:12:48 -0700, numanracing@tiscali.co.uk (NumanR)
wrote:


The motors are used for racing r/c cars, now please take this
seriously as there is a tool on the market which costs Ł600 which
appears to be just a high strength magnet.(This is used before each
race by the top racers) What I want is a cheaper alternative, or an
idea to help me build wht i need. The magnets are subjected to heat
and I think this effects the magnets. I cannot stop the heat but if I
could top up the magnets each time then this would help. Thanks for
your ideas.



Is it possible to strap rare earth magnets on the motor casing to
boost the strength of the motor's magnet?
Click to expand...
Boosting the strength of the field magnets doesn't necessarily do
what you think it might. For instance, once a motor has started,
and is up to speed, weakening the field magnets will cause the motor
to speed up..drastically!

Conversely, strong field magnets will give you high, lowspeed torque,
but will limit the maximum speed of the motor.

-Chuck Harris
 
On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 20:31:34 GMT, the renowned Roy McCammon
<barkupine-news@yahoo.com> wrote:

Peter E. Orban wrote:
Hi Everyone,

We replaced most of our incandescent light bulbs with compact
fluorescent bulbs about a year and a half ago (it was before the NA
blackout last year). The bulbs are holding up fine, except in the
bathrooms, and I am wondering what could be the reason.

I've had the same problem. I assumed that it was the humidity.
We take steamy showers.
Click to expand...
I have put off replacing the light inside the shower with a CF bulb
because of that worry. Maybe if I sawed one open and sprayed it with
conformal coating? Only some brands seem to stand up well outdoors.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 
"Rich" <rkoziol_no**s+pam@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:9pAad.111410$He1.86498@attbi_s01...
"Ken G." <goodguyy@webtv.net> wrote in

I work on alot of new DVD players ( store returns ) of all kinds and
maybe 1% work after a lens cleaning .

Having so many on hand i try switching lazor assemblies and that
normaly
fixes the problem .. other times its the driver board

Sounds like contacts on the laser assy plug get some film on them.
Switching them around just rubs off the oxide.

I have never removed the laser assy (not a tech), but don't you have
to align them in any way? I'd be tempted to just pull it out and put
it back in, if that's possible. I'm the OP in this thread.

Regards,

Rich
Click to expand...
If one is just swapping, then normally you'd swap the entire, pre-aligned
mech. Additionally, some newer DVD player have all or mostly software
adjustments, even auto-adjustments.

Mark Z.
 
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