Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

"b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1cfa6663.0410051503.5adc0708@posting.google.com...
"Rich" <rkoziol_no**s+pam@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:<mTk8d.201115$3l3.50730@attbi_s03>...
Hi All,

This multiformat DVD,CD Audio, SVCD, etc format, plays all formats
except the proper DVD.

When DVD disk is inserted, it keeps searching and returns noPLAY.(snip)


Have you tried opening the unit and cleaning the lens (gently) with a
q tip and pure alcohol? this solves 99 percent of read errors......
Ben
Click to expand...
BULLSHIT. I've been doing this professionally for many years and while
cleaning does often help with cd players, it's MUCH more rare for it to help
on DVD players. The pickups die like flies on dvd's, and that is likely the
OP's problem.

Mark Z.
 
Your quickest way is to contact the Philips service or Philips parts
dealer for your area. If you call Philips directly, you will get results
very quickly.

Some of these power cords are of odd size and configurations. You can
end up spending a lot of time for nothing, or buying one that does not
fit.

--

Jerry G.
======

"Shockwave" <sw14@freeuk.com> wrote in message
news:d009cdee.0410060509.6ffdc78e@posting.google.com...
Hi

I have come across a strange socket and wondered where I could get the
corresponding plug/lead?

It appears to be a standard "Figure 8" type 'mains' connector, as used
on most cassette recorders. However, it only has a groove in one side,
for polarisation (It's used for 12v DC in this instance).

Does anyone know what this is or where to get one? In particular I'm
looking for a DC power lead for a Philips 10CX1120 TV set (Or the bits
to make one)

TIA

Shokk
 
If you use fine simonize for acrylic paint polish with your buffer, I
would think that this will take off the coating. This substance contains
pumis stone, and can even polish glass if used correctly.

When you take off the coating, your tube is going to display with a lot
of glare. This will be because the glass surface has some reflections,
which is a normal property of glass. The glass used or CRT's has a high
content of lead in it for your protection. The image will have a sort of
a cloudy reflection to it. You will see what I mean if you can get the
anti-glare coating off of it.

--

Jerry G.
======

"Shahid Sheikh" <shahidsheikh10@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:28a9515f.0410052309.7ea44d32@posting.google.com...
Hi all,

Its an IBM P70 monitor. Got poorly packed while moving from one place
to another and the screen kept rubbing against another surface. Anyway
to remove what's left of the coating? I have even tried the buffing
wheel on my dremel tool but even that doesn't take off the coating
that is still there. Any ideas? How about an abrasive car polishing
wax? Or something like a claybar?

Thanks,

Shahid
 
If you want a technician to look at the monitor, find a place that is
specialized in computer monitor servicing. The TV tech may have a
difficult time for parts and service information. The dealer who sold
you your monitor should know of a good place.

By the sound of things, the mask inside of the tube must have became
displaced for some reason. There are retaing wires that hold it in to
position. These wires are under very high tension, and can sometimes
break with age. Going by your description and my experience, this is
what I am strongly thinking. I have seen this type of fault once in a
while.

If a gun in the tube went dead, you would be minus the colour of the
particular gun. Since the colour is not uniform across the screen, this
has to be a case in dealing with the mask.

If there was a purity problem, you would have a different sort of error.
Purity problems usually result in blobs or areas of offset colours. If a
purity problem occurs, there are no associated noises at the time of
occurrence.

Personally, I would be looking for a new monitor rather than investing
in even an estimate for this case. If you want something very nice,
consider an LCD screen. You will find it very easy to work with,
especialy for text and basic graphics work. LCD screens have much less
eyestrain, and are less tiresome to work on for many hours at a time.

--

Jerry G.
======

"Red Cloud" <mmdir2002@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1c9e1197.0410052303.740d7033@posting.google.com...
15" Hyundai monitor had no problem for 3 years. Suddenly yesterday
I heard some flicking inside of monitor then the right side of monitor
is way off. The color is changed. The green background windows 98 color
is not all green any more. The right side is changed fromg green to
pink and left side is littled changed to green. I did some research
on internet. The research suggested the one of color gun has died.
I guess it's time to get rid of the monitor. I was thinking about TV
repairman
or is there something I can do with my little electornic knowledge.
 
This is usually caused by a failure in the horizontal output stage. You
will have to give this out for service. This type of fault condition can
get very complex, especialy for the hobbiest.

If you are not trained in TV service, and have the proper tools and
setup to do this type of work, you would be best off to give the set out
for service. There are also many safety issues when working on TV sets.

--

Jerry G.
======

"Jason" <jbeter@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:c688fc5.0410051401.7e7b6486@posting.google.com...
I have a 27" Sony KV-27S22. When I turn it on I get sound, but no
picture at all. The little red led beside the stanby/timer blinks
continuously. I really hate to throw this tv out, as it has a great
picture. Any suggestions as to what to check?

Thanks
Jason
 
This can be from a break in the circuit board, or the uPC in either the
handset or the base is having problems. This type of repair would not be
worth to service.

These phones are very low in cost, and have an exchange warranty when
new. The manufacture themselves don't service them during the warranty
period. They give the customer a new phone.

--

Jerry G.
======

"Zev Berkovich" <zvberkov@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a73e0c36.0410050945.7ebe9ba6@posting.google.com...
Hi,

I have a problem with a GE cordless 900 MHz answering machine model
26990-D. When I use the phone and am dialing the number "6", more
often than not, the phone goes into mute mode and the 6 doesn't dial.
I have already cleaned the keypad internally, but it doesn't help.

Any ideas?
 
You will have to have a way to trace out the path of the horizontal sync
pulses to the scan generator IC. Also to check for proper AFC feedback
from the flyback circuit. You will need a scope to do this. There are
many components involved in this area, and servicing this for the
inexperienced tech would be difficult. These types of faults can be
complex to service. For this type of fault, the tech may require the
service manual, unless he is very familiar with the design of the set.

--

Jerry G.
======

"Greg Delgado" <gregdelgado@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:7099e8d6.0410050814.28ec4568@posting.google.com...
Hi all. I'm repairing a set where the picture is torn apart sideways
but doesn't roll vertically and has normal sound on all channels.
Anyone encountered this before?

Since the sound is ok , can I conclude that the tuner is ok?

Would appreciate any tips on how to diagnose this problem.

Thanks in advance.

Greg
 
"Rich.Andrews" <spmaway@ylhoo.com> wrote in message
news:Xns957A35E0A753mc2500183316chgoill@10.232.1.1...
rakeshsv@gmail.com (Rakesh) wrote in
news:270b72.0410052048.51a38c0a@posting.google.com:

Hello All,

Whats the difference between an Oscilloscope and Logic Analyzer

Thanks
Rakesh

One is a graph of voltage vs time
The other is a graph of state vs time

r


--
Nothing beats the bandwidth of a station wagon filled with DLT tapes.
Click to expand...
This must be the guy they outsourced my hardware job to
--
They can have my command prompt when they pry it from my cold dead fingers.
 
On Tue, 05 Oct 2004 18:54:18 -0500, Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Oct 2004 14:24:03 -0500 John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

Separate windings as on two separate bobbins, each with the same width
and starting diameter and occupying a separate portion of the core.

Sure, you can do that, but you're changing the rules in the middle of
the game: You're giving yourself a larger winding window to work with.
(otherwise you would have slightly less than half as much length to
work with, so each winding would build up faster and taller. The extra
bobbin takes up some of your previous volume, so you come out behind.

Otherwise, separate bobbins is certainly a desirable thing to do, but
you have to allow extra space for it up front.

I could also suggest that I would just start with a longer core so
that I would need fewer layers, and that would save even more wire....
Click to expand...
---
At the expense of extra core or, for the same volume, a longer
magnetic path (not good). The game is to minimize the total cost of
the transformer while maximizing its performance, and blithely doing
this-and-that isn't likely to converge on a winning "design"
---

Folks who make transformers for a living know all that, and they
routinely hipot to 5kV winding-to-winding and winding-to-core, and
make stuff that can run at ungodly high temperatures, so I don't think
it's a big deal if it's planned for.

That's a MUCH easier problem than 300-500 AC volts between adjacent
turns.
Click to expand...
---
Don't be ridiculous. The only problematic part about it is deciding
what insulation to use on the magnet wire, and since there are many
materials which can easily stand off higher voltages, that turns out
to be a non-problem as well.

Consider Kapton. At about 5kV/mil, a 0.0001" layer of it on adjacent
conductors would stand off a 1000V difference between them.

If you want to spout definitive information instead of mere opinion,
first go slogging through the spec's for the different magnet wire
insulation systems, then spout what you find.

In any case, I'm getting bored with this whole thing so if you choose
to reply you'll be talking to yourself.

--
John Fields
 
On 6 Oct 2004 06:09:59 -0700, sw14@freeuk.com (Shockwave) wrote:

|Hi
|
|I have come across a strange socket and wondered where I could get the
|corresponding plug/lead?
|
|It appears to be a standard "Figure 8" type 'mains' connector, as used
|on most cassette recorders. However, it only has a groove in one side,
|for polarisation (It's used for 12v DC in this instance).
|
|Does anyone know what this is or where to get one? In particular I'm
|looking for a DC power lead for a Philips 10CX1120 TV set (Or the bits
|to make one)
|
|TIA
|
|Shokk


I am guessing that it is the same as the ACL204B lead shown on this
page http://www.wagner.net.au/Catalogue/12_04.pdf

Such leads are fairly common in UK, Europe and Australia and often
appear on electric shavers. You might have to get one sent from one of
those countries if you can't locate one where you are.
 
On Tue, 05 Oct 2004 23:09:32 -0500, David Maynard wrote:

keith wrote:

On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 22:33:31 -0500, David Maynard wrote:


keith wrote:


On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 03:21:58 +0000, daytripper wrote:



On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 01:50:54 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:



"larrymoencurly" <larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:755e968a.0410031718.36d14f87@posting.google.com...
...
| National Semiconductor says that each USB port must have a 120uF or
| larger ....................................... But my USB card has
| only a 100uF aluminum capacitor and maybe a ceramic capacitor in
| parallel for this....

Close enough!

Except the tantalum cap would have much lower esl & esr figures than an
aluminum cap, making it more effective.

otoh, tantalums can have a brilliant failure mode ;-)


So do engineers when they're bringing up a system where all
of the tantallums were inserted backwards. You want to see fireworks!
(well,it was 25 years ago - I've mostly recovered and the tinninus
isn't so bad. <twitch>)


LOL. Yeah, I'll bet.

You get a similar result plugging non keyed circuit boards into a vertical
card rack 180 degrees reversed.


A good reason to hang the mechanical designers by the short things. One
*should* have to go to great lengths to pluch dangerous things in
backwards. In this case they did just that. ...and even complained about
how hard it was!


Hehe. Well, with the one I mentioned it was an experimental prototype built
by the design engineer.
Click to expand...
....even this design engineer knows how to key a connector. ;-)

--
Keith
 
On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 15:56:56 +1000, Lionel wrote:

Kibo informs me that keith <krw@att.bizzzz> stated that:

On Tue, 05 Oct 2004 03:47:13 +0000, NSM wrote:
"keith" <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote in message
news:pan.2004.10.05.01.56.40.575135@att.bizzzz...

| So do engineers when they're bringing up a system where all
| of the tantallums were inserted backwards. You want to see fireworks!
| (well,it was 25 years ago - I've mostly recovered and the tinninus
| isn't so bad. <twitch>)

grin> They don't smell too good either.
Click to expand...
Hot electricity never smells good. ...ever notice that? ;-)

I recall being told of a large TTL circuit board which was powered up with
reverse polarity. This was noticed due to the considerable amount of heat
being given off.

Everyone was mystified when the correctly rewired board worked OK. I guess
TTL is a little more tolerant than is generally believed.

TTL protection diodes are as strong as moose!

Well, the individual diodes aren't all that strong, but there's one on
every single I/O pin on every chip, so on a big PCB, the load will be
spread over a *lot* of diodes.
Click to expand...
I've pumped several amps though individual ones, but you're right with
thousands in parallel it's tough to smoke 'em. It *can* be done, but...
Unless the chips got hot
enough to let the magic smoke out, they'll likely survive, though
perhaps somewhat injured.

Yup. The best I've personally seen was the time I accidentally plugged a
2716 EPROM backwards into a programmer. It lit up like a xmas tree
through the UV window, but worked fine when I turned it around the right
way.
Click to expand...
Oh, my! I've never done that. However...

One time back in the '60s (when I was a mere lad playing with electronics)
a friend and I were talking about these new-fangled LED thingys. He said
they were no big deal and had them for some time. He then took a
small-signal glass-encapsulated diode from his pile-o-parts, bent the
leads about 3/4" apart and grabbed it with long-nosed pliers. He then
shoved it into the mains outlet and sure enough it lit up, and quite
brightly too! He did make some comment about his reliability problems, or
some such. I just about PMP. ;-)

--
Keith
 
keith wrote:

On Tue, 05 Oct 2004 23:09:32 -0500, David Maynard wrote:


keith wrote:


On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 22:33:31 -0500, David Maynard wrote:



keith wrote:



On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 03:21:58 +0000, daytripper wrote:




On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 01:50:54 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:




"larrymoencurly" <larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:755e968a.0410031718.36d14f87@posting.google.com...
...
| National Semiconductor says that each USB port must have a 120uF or
| larger ....................................... But my USB card has
| only a 100uF aluminum capacitor and maybe a ceramic capacitor in
| parallel for this....

Close enough!

Except the tantalum cap would have much lower esl & esr figures than an
aluminum cap, making it more effective.

otoh, tantalums can have a brilliant failure mode ;-)


So do engineers when they're bringing up a system where all
of the tantallums were inserted backwards. You want to see fireworks!
(well,it was 25 years ago - I've mostly recovered and the tinninus
isn't so bad. <twitch>)


LOL. Yeah, I'll bet.

You get a similar result plugging non keyed circuit boards into a vertical
card rack 180 degrees reversed.


A good reason to hang the mechanical designers by the short things. One
*should* have to go to great lengths to pluch dangerous things in
backwards. In this case they did just that. ...and even complained about
how hard it was!


Hehe. Well, with the one I mentioned it was an experimental prototype built
by the design engineer.


...even this design engineer knows how to key a connector. ;-)
Click to expand...
Hehe. I bet that one does too... NOW ;)
 
keith wrote:

On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 15:56:56 +1000, Lionel wrote:


Kibo informs me that keith <krw@att.bizzzz> stated that:


On Tue, 05 Oct 2004 03:47:13 +0000, NSM wrote:

"keith" <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote in message
news:pan.2004.10.05.01.56.40.575135@att.bizzzz...

| So do engineers when they're bringing up a system where all
| of the tantallums were inserted backwards. You want to see fireworks!
| (well,it was 25 years ago - I've mostly recovered and the tinninus
| isn't so bad. <twitch>)

grin> They don't smell too good either.


Hot electricity never smells good. ...ever notice that? ;-)


I recall being told of a large TTL circuit board which was powered up with
reverse polarity. This was noticed due to the considerable amount of heat
being given off.

Everyone was mystified when the correctly rewired board worked OK. I guess
TTL is a little more tolerant than is generally believed.

TTL protection diodes are as strong as moose!

Well, the individual diodes aren't all that strong, but there's one on
every single I/O pin on every chip, so on a big PCB, the load will be
spread over a *lot* of diodes.


I've pumped several amps though individual ones, but you're right with
thousands in parallel it's tough to smoke 'em. It *can* be done, but...

Unless the chips got hot
enough to let the magic smoke out, they'll likely survive, though
perhaps somewhat injured.

Yup. The best I've personally seen was the time I accidentally plugged a
2716 EPROM backwards into a programmer. It lit up like a xmas tree
through the UV window, but worked fine when I turned it around the right
way.


Oh, my! I've never done that. However...

One time back in the '60s (when I was a mere lad playing with electronics)
a friend and I were talking about these new-fangled LED thingys. He said
they were no big deal and had them for some time. He then took a
small-signal glass-encapsulated diode from his pile-o-parts, bent the
leads about 3/4" apart and grabbed it with long-nosed pliers. He then
shoved it into the mains outlet and sure enough it lit up, and quite
brightly too! He did make some comment about his reliability problems, or
some such. I just about PMP. ;-)
Click to expand...
A bit on the high side with power consumption too, I'll wager. hehe
 
"George Jetson" <George.Rkindig@neo.rr.com.Jetson> wrote in
news:QvU8d.1105$V06.1004@fe2.columbus.rr.com:

"Rich.Andrews" <spmaway@ylhoo.com> wrote in message
news:Xns957A35E0A753mc2500183316chgoill@10.232.1.1...
rakeshsv@gmail.com (Rakesh) wrote in
news:270b72.0410052048.51a38c0a@posting.google.com:

Hello All,

Whats the difference between an Oscilloscope and Logic Analyzer

Thanks
Rakesh

One is a graph of voltage vs time
The other is a graph of state vs time

r


This must be the guy they outsourced my hardware job to.
Click to expand...
I assume you are referring to Mr. Rakesh.

r


--
Nothing beats the bandwidth of a station wagon filled with DLT tapes.
 
what main board? FIC ECS MSI?...usb blew cause the board blows.

"larrymoencurly" <larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:755e968a.0410031718.36d14f87@posting.google.com...
One of the ports of my NEC-based USB 2.0 card quit working because
the
National Semiconductor LM3526 power controller chip failed. I'm
pretty sure that I didn't zap it with static (I always touch the
outher metal shell to the computer case before plugging it in) or
try
to plug it in backwards. The data sheet for the LM3526 says that
it's
protected against voltage, current, and even temperature, so what
happened?

National Semiconductor says that each USB port must have a 120uF or
larger tantalum capacitor between +5V and ground for protection
against transients that occur during hot-plugging, and NEC's example
schematic for their uPD720100A USB 2.0 chip shows the LM3526 using
150uF aluminum in parallel with 0.1uF ceramic. But my USB card has
only a 100uF aluminum capacitor and maybe a ceramic capacitor in
parallel for this. Could this be why the USB port got zapped?
Would
it help to solder a tantalum in parallel as well? Will it hurt to
add
it?
Click to expand...
 
I think a really good cleaning is in order first of all. Secondly, I would
examine the head very closely for signs of wear, especially if the machine
has lots of use. This is a common symptom, playback OK, but muffled
recording, and it seems the left channel often goes first, since it's on the
edge of the tape itself. Denon often sells the complete deck assemblies for
these, if you're in the U.S. try Pacific Coast Parts at 800-421-5080 and
check the cost.

Mark Z.


"Shpalman" <elio1-1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4164acd1$0$10349$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
Greets,

I currently have a Denon DN720R cassette deck, nice machine and all, but
in
the last few weeks I'm having a little trouble with the speed drifting
(speeds up/slows down completely at random). This deck has a variable
speed
control on the front panel - at the time of the speed drifting, the
control
wasn't engaged so I've ruled that out as the problem, as well as the
cassettes themselves as it happens on all tapes tried (the same tapes play
fine in another machine, a technics). Is it as simple as replacing a motor
or some belts or would I have to look elsewhere in the unit?

This deck also seems to have a problem playing back a tape recorded onto
it
in the form of the left channel being way down in level - again, a mixture
of tapes tried, same problem on each tape. Listening to it back reveals a
sound like something isn't quite plugged in to the input jacks properly,
however this has been ruled out as in record/pause mode I can get signal
on
both channels equally - when playing back tapes recorded on other units it
also gives me normal levels on both channels. So basically:

1. Signal going into the unit is okay
2. Signal coming off tapes recorded on other machines is okay
3. Signal coming off tapes recorded on the denon not okay - right
channel's
fine, left channel way down (around -10db or so with a very cut-out type
noise)

Does anyone have any suggestions of what to do here at all? Many thanks in
advance.
Click to expand...
 
"Rich" <rkoziol_no**s+pam@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:t5S8d.421718$8_6.380913@attbi_s04...
Hi Mark,

"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@yis.us> wrote in message

BULLSHIT. I've been doing this professionally for many years and
while
cleaning does often help with cd players, it's MUCH more rare for it
to help
on DVD players. The pickups die like flies on dvd's, and that is
likely the
OP's problem.

If the pickup died, would that not keep any format from playing? In
my case CD's do play fine.
Click to expand...
Not at all. It's quite common to fail on DVD's and still play CD's. A shame
pickup parts prices are so high while replacement of entire units so low.
Makes go / no-go repair decisions problematical.

Mark Z.
 
"b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1cfa6663.0410061256.218e2180@posting.google.com...
"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@yis.us> wrote in message
news:<2si5smF1le06uU1@uni-berlin.de>...
"b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1cfa6663.0410051503.5adc0708@posting.google.com...
"Rich" <rkoziol_no**s+pam@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:<mTk8d.201115$3l3.50730@attbi_s03>...
Hi All,

This multiformat DVD,CD Audio, SVCD, etc format, plays all formats
except the proper DVD.

When DVD disk is inserted, it keeps searching and returns
noPLAY.(snip)


Have you tried opening the unit and cleaning the lens (gently) with a
q tip and pure alcohol? this solves 99 percent of read errors......
Ben

BULLSHIT. I've been doing this professionally for many years and while
cleaning does often help with cd players, it's MUCH more rare for it to
help
on DVD players. The pickups die like flies on dvd's, and that is likely
the
OP's problem.

Mark Z.

Bullshit? maybe to you.
In my experience the vast majority of dvds rejecting discs etc can be
repaired through careful cleaning. I've seen only a handful of bad
pickups over the years. So I disagree - it isn't as rare for it to
work as you make out.

So I stand by what I suggested to the OP - It is perfectly possible
that his pickup failed, but what's wrong with cleaning first? Or I
suppose you would immediately replace the pickup, and blow the
expense?

B
Click to expand...
Definitely my experience with Sony, Pioneer, Onkyo, Denon, Panasonic,
Yamaha, etc. Glad your experience has been more positive. Sorry I was so
bitchy.

Mark Z.
 
If all the fuses are OK, then the power transformer probably isn't getting
voltage from the turn-on relay. Does it click when you press the Power
button? CNV902 gets no AC voltage to speak of til this relay fires. (I
assume your voltmeter is set to measure AC voltage)

Mark Z.


"ampapa" <vbtalent@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:abe50b2b.0410021015.2ce33916@posting.google.com...
Sorry if this is a double post.

Mark, are you saying there might be a fuse literaly underneath a
circuit board and not necessarily hidden from view by a circuit board?
I checked about 5 or 6 fuses in this thing and all checked fine.

My biggest problem is that when I read the schematic I can't tell if
the transformer is supposed to be getting 110v from the A/C board on
CNV902? If it is then I can trace it from there. That's my real
dilema.

The schematic can be found here
(http://www.eserviceinfo.com/index.php?what=search2).

Thanks,


"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@yis.us> wrote in message
news:<2s7f2tF1ffucfU1@uni-berlin.de>...
These models often have fuses sort of hidden under a circuit board
attached
to the transformer. If these fuses are blown you probably have a blown
amp
channel. Sometimes just the output transistors for a given channel are
bad,
sometimes there are other small parts bad. Occasionally a circuit mod is
required to lessen the bias at startup.

Mark Z.


"ampapa" <vbtalent@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:abe50b2b.0410011801.4819cdbc@posting.google.com...
First off I'd like to say, "Hello." to the group. I hope I can gain
some knowledge from the group's collective input.

I have a Sony STR-DE635 stereo receiver that will not turn on and I
would like to investigate into maybe seeing if I can repair it. I
found a set of schematics on this site which I believe will
definitely help.(http://www.eserviceinfo.com/index.php?what=search2)

I'm guessing but I think that the problem is related to the power
supply? On p.13 of this .PDF manual it has an A/C and D/C schematic,
this receiver has a seperate board for each. I probed the A/C board
and found that it has voltage out to the "Digital" board of a little
over 12 volts but when I try to test the pins on CNV902 I thought I
should be getting appx. 110 A/C but only get appx. 2? CNV902 is a
simple 2 wire connector leading directly to a transformer.

My common sense is telling me that why would I need a transformaer
the size of Kansas for only 2 volts A/C? So, I'm guessing this might
have something to do with it? I could be in left field due to my lack
of knowledge and inexperience, that's why I'm hoping you guy's/girl's
can shed some light.

Thanks for any suggestions or hints you can provide.
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