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AFAIK, the TM500 series was designed for the then existing pluginsDoes anyone have a URL for, or direct knowledge of, information on the
interchangeability of various Tektronix plug-in series?
I own a TM504 mainframe and a couple of plug-ins. I've also found a virgin,
blank plug-in for DIY construction. I also see a very wide range of plug-in
series, 5Lxx and 7Lxx come to mind which I believe are for the 5000 & 7000
oscilloscope mainframes (but I'm really not sure). Do any of these plug-ins
either electrically or mechanically fit the 50x mainframes?
TIA
Norm
Well....they're both rectangular. 5xxx is smaller and shorter."mike" <spamme0@juno.com> wrote in message news:41675D48.9000300@juno.com...
Norm Dresner wrote:
Does anyone have a URL for, or direct knowledge of, information on the
interchangeability of various Tektronix plug-in series?
I own a TM504 mainframe and a couple of plug-ins. I've also found a
virgin,
blank plug-in for DIY construction. I also see a very wide range of
plug-in
series, 5Lxx and 7Lxx come to mind which I believe are for the 5000 &
7000
oscilloscope mainframes (but I'm really not sure). Do any of these
plug-ins
either electrically or mechanically fit the 50x mainframes?
TIA
Norm
The short answer is no.
The 5000 series scopes and the TM500 use the same mechanical package.
They're keyed so they won't interchange, but the keys are plastic and
they wear on the fiberglass board and eventually break, defeating the
key. If you cross plug the series, you'll make a LOT of smoke.
The 5000 and 7000 series scopes have some interface similarities.
The power supply voltages are different.
I once considered making an adapter to make a 5CT1 into a 7CT1.
Needed voltage regulators in the adapter.
A 576 fell into my lap, so the project got aborted.
mike
--
As long as the 5000 series plug-ins will mechanically fit the TM50x
mainframe, I have a source for cheap "blanks" in which I can make a bunch of
things I need ... I paid almost as much for the blank kit I bought last week
as I have for some of the plug-ins.
Are the 7xxx packages mechanically similar to the 5xx ones?
It's been a long time and all my 5000 scope stuff has gone to dumpsterThanks to everyone for the info.
Norm
May I ask what the blank chassis cost you? Where did you find it?As long as the 5000 series plug-ins will mechanically fit the TM50x
mainframe, I have a source for cheap "blanks" in which I can make a bunch of
things I need ... I paid almost as much for the blank kit I bought last week
as I have for some of the plug-ins.
15" Hyundai monitor had no problem for 3 years. Suddenly yesterday
I heard some flicking inside of monitor then the right side of monitor
is way off. The color is changed. The green background windows 98 color
is not all green any more. The right side is changed fromg green to
pink and left side is littled changed to green. I did some research
on internet. The research suggested the one of color gun has died.
I guess it's time to get rid of the monitor. I was thinking about TV repairman
or is there something I can do with my little electornic knowledge.
#10 is good, #00 is better~!It is bonded back at the service panel with a #10ga copper
wire. The pipe to the well is plastic.
Perhaps you should install a whole-house surge protector onThe last time we got a direct hit by lightning, the water
changed its tint for several days. It went from grey,
to yellow/orange. We lost a chunk of terracotta flue liner
on that one, and several appliances.
Well, if you are going to dump them anyway, hook them up to a TV receiverI have recently been given a box of various bits and pieces, including
rf modulators from vcrs.
I have so far managed to identify the signal (video and audio) input
and grounds, but I am not sure of the power lines.
Apart from the audio/video in, One has two pins , marked BB and MB.
Another (from an old JVC/ferguson vcr I believe) has 3 pins - BS B1
B2.
I'd be grateful if anybody could suggest the pinout/ polarity of these
and whether they use 5v or 12v. It would be a pity to have to dump
them!
I've had the same problem. I assumed that it was the humidity.Hi Everyone,
We replaced most of our incandescent light bulbs with compact
fluorescent bulbs about a year and a half ago (it was before the NA
blackout last year). The bulbs are holding up fine, except in the
bathrooms, and I am wondering what could be the reason.
The lightning hit the chimney cap, went down the brickwork of theIn comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.chips Chuck Harris <cf-NO-SPAM-harris@erols.com> wrote:
It is bonded back at the service panel with a #10ga copper
wire. The pipe to the well is plastic.
#10 is good, #00 is better~!
The last time we got a direct hit by lightning, the water
changed its tint for several days. It went from grey,
to yellow/orange. We lost a chunk of terracotta flue liner
on that one, and several appliances.
Perhaps you should install a whole-house surge protector on
the panel (~$50). You lose two-wire appiances through ground
vs power surges. Your pole transformer and it's ground is
probably a ways away.
-- Robert
I found a FAQ on the internet which mentioned doing this and not to use"ljones" <ljones@lineone.net> wrote in message
news:ck9el5$gi2$1@sparta.btinternet.com...
|
| Hi,
|
| I have an old (I believe it was made around 1990/91ish) VCR. It's an
| SVHS model - a Sanyo VHR-S700E (Stereo, PAL; I'm in the UK). I'm trying
| to repair this vcr but I can't pinpoint exactly what the trouble is or
| where I should look.
...
| First of all I thought that the second problem (regarding forward wind,
| etc) might have been the capstan and that it might have ceased up or
| needed oiling. I tried to do this with some sweing machine oil but it
| seems to have had no effect (though I did this with the capstan still in
| the machine).
...
Sewing machine oil? Might as well shotgun it to death now.
N
If you tried lubricating it and nothing much changed, that wasn't the problemNSM wrote:
"ljones" <ljones@lineone.net> wrote in message
news:ck9el5$gi2$1@sparta.btinternet.com...
|
| Hi,
|
| I have an old (I believe it was made around 1990/91ish) VCR. It's an
| SVHS model - a Sanyo VHR-S700E (Stereo, PAL; I'm in the UK). I'm trying
| to repair this vcr but I can't pinpoint exactly what the trouble is or
| where I should look.
...
| First of all I thought that the second problem (regarding forward wind,
| etc) might have been the capstan and that it might have ceased up or
| needed oiling. I tried to do this with some sweing machine oil but it
| seems to have had no effect (though I did this with the capstan still in
| the machine).
...
Sewing machine oil? Might as well shotgun it to death now.
N
I found a FAQ on the internet which mentioned doing this and not to
use something like WD40. It suggested (from memory) using a thicker
oil or lubricant, not WD40 but sewing machine oil or machine oil.
I do notice that with the brake disengaged the capstan moves quite
freely by hand - but how free is free? I don't know if it moves enough.
ljones@lineone.net
I have an old Delco radio which I salvaged from my 83 buick before it
went to its final reward. The radio has been in and outlived 3 of my
work vans but now it needs work on the cassette section. It started
dragging very badly and tapes sounded awful. I replaced or resurfaced
rubber parts as needed and it seemed to improve but not for long. I
finally pulled the motor and although it seemed to run ok with no load
as soon as I put a slight drag on it it stumbled and stalled a few
times. I opened it up resurfaced the commutator and brushes,
lubricated it and tried it out. It seemed much better under load and I
reinstalled it into the transport only to have the same speed problems
start up once again. I pulled the motor and it is once again stumbling
under load so I don't want to mess with it any more. I subbed a motor
from an unknown source to try the unit out. I had to power it from my
bench supply and adjust the voltage down to 5.0 volts for proper
speed. It seems to run decently this way but not knowing the motor's
voltage rating I may not be driving it properly to achieve maximum
torque and so I would not want to leave things this way. I would also
have to build a little LM317 circuit to power the thing and I really
don't want to do that if I don't have to either.
Does anyone have any of these old Delco radios possibly kicking around
and if so I was wondering if you might have a good motor or even a
complete transport you would be willing to sell me.
The radio information follows:
Radio appears to be a Delco.
Service Ref. # 30BCC31
Part # 16008160
Return # 996742
The motor information follows:
Motor is a Matsushita.
Model # MMT-3RF2H
Date: 05Nov82AA-1
I don't know the RPM's of this thing but it is marked and runs on
13.2VDC
If you need any further information please let me know. Thanks for any
help you may be able to offer. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics
Sound like the replacement motor you put in their is running backwards.
That's why the speed won't regulate. In other words, if it's a
clockwise-rotation motor you need, your unknown sub is a counterclockwise
model. You'll need to try a motor of the correct rotation direction. All
DC permanent magnet motors can be changed if you can change the
orientation of the bottom cap assembly 108 degrees. Many later ones are
"keyed" to prevent this.
Mark Z.
Mark Z.
"Lenny" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d980bc2c.0410092025.14dce772@posting.google.com...
I have an old Delco radio which I salvaged from my 83 buick before it
went to its final reward. The radio has been in and outlived 3 of my
work vans but now it needs work on the cassette section. It started
dragging very badly and tapes sounded awful. I replaced or resurfaced
rubber parts as needed and it seemed to improve but not for long. I
finally pulled the motor and although it seemed to run ok with no load
as soon as I put a slight drag on it it stumbled and stalled a few
times. I opened it up resurfaced the commutator and brushes,
lubricated it and tried it out. It seemed much better under load and I
reinstalled it into the transport only to have the same speed problems
start up once again. I pulled the motor and it is once again stumbling
under load so I don't want to mess with it any more. I subbed a motor
from an unknown source to try the unit out. I had to power it from my
bench supply and adjust the voltage down to 5.0 volts for proper
speed. It seems to run decently this way but not knowing the motor's
voltage rating I may not be driving it properly to achieve maximum
torque and so I would not want to leave things this way. I would also
have to build a little LM317 circuit to power the thing and I really
don't want to do that if I don't have to either.
Does anyone have any of these old Delco radios possibly kicking around
and if so I was wondering if you might have a good motor or even a
complete transport you would be willing to sell me.
The radio information follows:
Radio appears to be a Delco.
Service Ref. # 30BCC31
Part # 16008160
Return # 996742
The motor information follows:
Motor is a Matsushita.
Model # MMT-3RF2H
Date: 05Nov82AA-1
I don't know the RPM's of this thing but it is marked and runs on
13.2VDC
If you need any further information please let me know. Thanks for any
help you may be able to offer. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics
When I built my house, I wanted some wiring to be availableAll bets are off in a direct strike. Common grounding only
reduces the damage from a nearby strike.
....
I still doubt this was induced _unless_ 1) Phone was
run parallel to the floodlight circuit for some distance
and 2) Phone and power were on the same groundstake.
Since I did the power and telephone work, they are both groundedMost likely, phone was on it's own groundstake, so anything
bonded to power ground would get fried by the ground
differential between power and ground.
What seems to happen, anecdotally, is the rods conduct theOne thing I have never been able to determine is whether
we would be safer with a lightning rod system, or without.
Hard to say. A lightening rod system could be dangerous
if the insulation was insufficiently heat-resistant.
It is my understanding that a lightning rod provides a statistical cone ofLightning strikes up from the best point on the ground. IMO, the safest way
is to install a lightning rod away from the house (separately guyed) but
close enough to protect your property. Just don't stick your tongue on it
when it's stormy out!
N