Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[NSM]

"Patrick LANGLOIS" <langlois10@caramail.com> wrote in message
news:d269bd1d.0410070452.2380c202@posting.google.com...
| I'm looking for a schematic for a A147 SCOTT amplifier,
| from the middle of the seventies...
| Thanks.

Looked on BAMA ?

N

 

[NSM]

"Peter E. Orban" <peter.orban@nrc.ca> wrote in message
news:41655831.86B224A1@nrc.ca...
| Hi Everyone,
|
| We replaced most of our incandescent light bulbs with compact
| fluorescent bulbs about a year and a half ago (it was before the NA
| blackout last year). The bulbs are holding up fine, except in the
| bathrooms, and I am wondering what could be the reason.
....
| I am wondering what could be the reason for such a high rate of failure?

Made in China? I bought 25 from the dollar store and they have a higher
failure rate.

| Is it possible that the powering up event of three or five lights in
| parallel produces more transients, or something like that?

No

| There is also more moisture for short periods of time in the bathroom,
| but not in the powder room.
| I have double checked the wiring of the fixtures, they are wired
| correctly, for live and neutral, with the ground attached.

None of that matters. Position (base up, down or sideways) is more
important.

| They are also selling similar bulbs, specifically for vanities, about
| 2.5 times the cost of the regular ones. They only seem to have the
| balloon shaped and sized differently around the spiral. I would be
| surprised if there were any other differences between them.

US made might be better if you can find them. Often they all come from the
same factories, and the prices differ because of greed, not quality.

N

 

[Ken Finney]

This situation has been discussed ad naseum in alt.energy.homepower. Google
should yield some good info. IIRC, it is not only a question of quality,
but some of the brands are radically overstressing the parts in the
ballasts. The "5000 hour" claim for some brands is pretty much bogus; it
doesn't matter how reliable the lamp itself is, if the ballast stops
working.




"Peter E. Orban" <peter.orban@nrc.ca> wrote in message
news:41655831.86B224A1@nrc.ca...

Hi Everyone,

We replaced most of our incandescent light bulbs with compact
fluorescent bulbs about a year and a half ago (it was before the NA
blackout last year). The bulbs are holding up fine, except in the
bathrooms, and I am wondering what could be the reason.

The fixtures have five (three in the powder room) bulbs in parallel, and
we use the 7W (40W equivalent) bulbs. We have lost about five bulbs
since last year, all of them the 7W variety, four in the five-light
fixture, one in the three-light fixture. I do not think they lasted more
than 100 hours max, and they are guaranteed for 5000 hours. The same
size bulbs in table lights so far are ok.

I am wondering what could be the reason for such a high rate of failure?
Is it possible that the powering up event of three or five lights in
parallel produces more transients, or something like that?
There is also more moisture for short periods of time in the bathroom,
but not in the powder room.
I have double checked the wiring of the fixtures, they are wired
correctly, for live and neutral, with the ground attached.

They are also selling similar bulbs, specifically for vanities, about
2.5 times the cost of the regular ones. They only seem to have the
balloon shaped and sized differently around the spiral. I would be
surprised if there were any other differences between them.

Any comment on the above?

--
Peter E. Orban
National Research Council of Canada
e-mail: peter.orban@nrc.ca

 

[Jerry G.]

This would be from the manufacture only, if they would give out this
type of information, without you being a manufacture contractor for
them.

Generally, and very basically speaking, I know that a few of the pins
are for the power. There are a number of them for the data I/O, and a
few for the bias drive and or bias reference drive for the laser.

If you were to purchase or get a copy of the service manual for the
player it came out of, you may be able to decipher the pins
configuration, but they may not give any more details than what is
required to troubleshoot and do the alignment of the player.

--

Jerry G.
======

"Carlos Soria" <cshoyo@us.es> wrote in message
news:e10f22cb.0410070004.171a248d@posting.google.com...
Hello.

I would like to apply a CD pick up head for another use. So I have
made the 'autopsy' of an old CD unit and now I have on my table the
pick-up laser head with its laser, lens, etc.

This head have ten pins on one side. The problem is that I do not know
their functions. It is possible to get one of this pick-ups with its
technical specifications?

Thank you.

 

[John Woodgate]

I read in sci.electronics.design that Peter E. Orban
<peter.orban@nrc.ca> wrote (in <41655831.86B224A1@nrc.ca&gt about
'Compact fluorescent light failures', on Thu, 7 Oct 2004:

I am wondering what could be the reason for such a high rate of failure?

Check if the fitting closely encloses the base of the lamp. Think 'heat
dissipation'. There's an electrolytic cap in there, and even if it's a
105 C type, it can overheat and dry up.

If the failure mechanism is that the lamp becomes increasingly reluctant
to light up, and eventually refuses entirely, the cap problem is almost
certainly the explanation.

Been there!
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
The good news is that nothing is compulsory.
The bad news is that everything is prohibited.
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

 

[chrisv]

"JAD" <Kapasitor@coldmail.com> top posted:

reliability and power consumption,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
speaking of street lights I was reading yesterday that a number a US
cities are being investigated about their manipulation of the traffic
signals to burn more gas, thus creating revenue for the city, (gas
city level taxes)

Right. And OJ isn't guilty.

 

[Geoff C]

keith <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote in
newsan.2004.10.07.02.30.33.895207@att.bizzzz:

One time back in the '60s (when I was a mere lad playing with
electronics) a friend and I were talking about these new-fangled LED
thingys. He said they were no big deal and had them for some time. He
then took a small-signal glass-encapsulated diode from his
pile-o-parts, bent the leads about 3/4" apart and grabbed it with
long-nosed pliers. He then shoved it into the mains outlet and sure
enough it lit up, and quite brightly too!

I once had a bizarre failure of a USR modem immediately after a
thunderstorm. You would think it would be a typical frying of the phone
circuits etc. When I checked it out, the relay coil was open circuit. This
of course is on the control cctry and not the telecom side. I replaced the
relay and it worked perfectly. Can only assume it was a coincidence since
if it was a voltage surge it should have taken out the semis on the relay
drive.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com> writes:

This would be from the manufacture only, if they would give out this
type of information, without you being a manufacture contractor for
them.

Generally, and very basically speaking, I know that a few of the pins
are for the power. There are a number of them for the data I/O, and a
few for the bias drive and or bias reference drive for the laser.

If you were to purchase or get a copy of the service manual for the
player it came out of, you may be able to decipher the pins
configuration, but they may not give any more details than what is
required to troubleshoot and do the alignment of the player.

You could probably figure this out on the older pickups with separate
laser diode and photodiode array, and the focus and tracking coils.

But on the new ones with a single integrated hybrid circuit having
the laser and photodiodes in a single package, it is more difficult.

However, some of these are standary parts for which datasheets exist on
the Web.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header is ignored.
To contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

 

[Genome]

"Peter E. Orban" <peter.orban@nrc.ca> wrote in message news:41655831.86B224A1@nrc.ca...
| Hi Everyone,
|
| Any comment |
| --
| Peter E. Orban
| National Research Council of Canada
| e-mail: peter.orban@nrc.ca


TAKE YOUR ASS OUT OF SED

 

[keith]

On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 23:50:49 -0500, David Maynard wrote:

keith wrote:

On Wed, 06 Oct 2004 15:56:56 +1000, Lionel wrote:


Kibo informs me that keith <krw@att.bizzzz> stated that:


On Tue, 05 Oct 2004 03:47:13 +0000, NSM wrote:

"keith" <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote in message
newsan.2004.10.05.01.56.40.575135@att.bizzzz...

| So do engineers when they're bringing up a system where all
| of the tantallums were inserted backwards. You want to see fireworks!
| (well,it was 25 years ago - I've mostly recovered and the tinninus
| isn't so bad. <twitch&gt

grin> They don't smell too good either.


Hot electricity never smells good. ...ever notice that? ;-)


I recall being told of a large TTL circuit board which was powered up with
reverse polarity. This was noticed due to the considerable amount of heat
being given off.

Everyone was mystified when the correctly rewired board worked OK. I guess
TTL is a little more tolerant than is generally believed.

TTL protection diodes are as strong as moose!

Well, the individual diodes aren't all that strong, but there's one on
every single I/O pin on every chip, so on a big PCB, the load will be
spread over a *lot* of diodes.


I've pumped several amps though individual ones, but you're right with
thousands in parallel it's tough to smoke 'em. It *can* be done, but...

Unless the chips got hot
enough to let the magic smoke out, they'll likely survive, though
perhaps somewhat injured.

Yup. The best I've personally seen was the time I accidentally plugged a
2716 EPROM backwards into a programmer. It lit up like a xmas tree
through the UV window, but worked fine when I turned it around the right
way.


Oh, my! I've never done that. However...

One time back in the '60s (when I was a mere lad playing with electronics)
a friend and I were talking about these new-fangled LED thingys. He said
they were no big deal and had them for some time. He then took a
small-signal glass-encapsulated diode from his pile-o-parts, bent the
leads about 3/4" apart and grabbed it with long-nosed pliers. He then
shoved it into the mains outlet and sure enough it lit up, and quite
brightly too! He did make some comment about his reliability problems, or
some such. I just about PMP. ;-)


A bit on the high side with power consumption too, I'll wager. hehe

Given the temperature, it was likely more efficient than the average
incandescent bulb. ;-)

--
Keith

 

[keith]

On Thu, 07 Oct 2004 12:27:08 +0000, Robert Redelmeier wrote:

In comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.chips keith <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote:
glass-encapsulated diode from his pile-o-parts, bent the
leads about 3/4" apart and grabbed it with long-nosed pliers.
He then shoved it into the mains outlet and sure enough it lit
up, and quite brightly too! He did make some comment about
his reliability problems, or some such. I just about PMP. ;-)

Well, OK. But now traffic engineers are installing LED traffic
light replacement bulbs specifically _for_ reliability?

They're more efficient too. LEDs are a few times more efficeint and the
monochromatic light is particularly suited for traffic lights. OTOH, in
the '60s...

Also note that some cars are using LEDs for tail lights. Headlights
are still a bit of a problem.

Daisy chain a dozen or so LEDs all facing one way, and plug it in. Face
another set the other way. Parallel as many as you need for brightness.
Nicely vibration resistant.

Hmm, face another set the other way and you can plug 'em into AC. I
thought these things were a tad more specialized than that though.

--
Keith

 

[keith]

On Thu, 07 Oct 2004 08:19:53 -0700, JAD wrote:

reliability and power consumption,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
speaking of street lights I was reading yesterday that a number a US
cities are being investigated about their manipulation of the traffic
signals to burn more gas, thus creating revenue for the city, (gas
city level taxes)

I thought that was all about red-light cameras (a real scam!).

--
Keith

 

[Jeff]

"Peter E. Orban" <peter.orban@nrc.ca> wrote in message
news:41655831.86B224A1@nrc.ca...

Hi Everyone,

We replaced most of our incandescent light bulbs with compact
fluorescent bulbs about a year and a half ago (it was before the NA
blackout last year). The bulbs are holding up fine, except in the
bathrooms, and I am wondering what could be the reason.

The fixtures have five (three in the powder room) bulbs in parallel, and
we use the 7W (40W equivalent) bulbs. We have lost about five bulbs
since last year, all of them the 7W variety, four in the five-light
fixture, one in the three-light fixture. I do not think they lasted more
than 100 hours max, and they are guaranteed for 5000 hours. The same
size bulbs in table lights so far are ok.

I am wondering what could be the reason for such a high rate of failure?
Is it possible that the powering up event of three or five lights in
parallel produces more transients, or something like that?
There is also more moisture for short periods of time in the bathroom,
but not in the powder room.
I have double checked the wiring of the fixtures, they are wired
correctly, for live and neutral, with the ground attached.

They are also selling similar bulbs, specifically for vanities, about
2.5 times the cost of the regular ones. They only seem to have the
balloon shaped and sized differently around the spiral. I would be
surprised if there were any other differences between them.

Any comment on the above?

How often are they turned on, and for how long? Are they cycled often, with
on times of a few minutes?

--
Peter E. Orban
National Research Council of Canada
e-mail: peter.orban@nrc.ca

 

[James Sweet]

"Peter E. Orban" <peter.orban@nrc.ca> wrote in message
news:41655831.86B224A1@nrc.ca...

Hi Everyone,

We replaced most of our incandescent light bulbs with compact
fluorescent bulbs about a year and a half ago (it was before the NA
blackout last year). The bulbs are holding up fine, except in the
bathrooms, and I am wondering what could be the reason.

The fixtures have five (three in the powder room) bulbs in parallel, and
we use the 7W (40W equivalent) bulbs. We have lost about five bulbs
since last year, all of them the 7W variety, four in the five-light
fixture, one in the three-light fixture. I do not think they lasted more
than 100 hours max, and they are guaranteed for 5000 hours. The same
size bulbs in table lights so far are ok.

I am wondering what could be the reason for such a high rate of failure?
Is it possible that the powering up event of three or five lights in
parallel produces more transients, or something like that?
There is also more moisture for short periods of time in the bathroom,
but not in the powder room.
I have double checked the wiring of the fixtures, they are wired
correctly, for live and neutral, with the ground attached.

They are also selling similar bulbs, specifically for vanities, about
2.5 times the cost of the regular ones. They only seem to have the
balloon shaped and sized differently around the spiral. I would be
surprised if there were any other differences between them.

Any comment on the above?

Are the fixtures fully enclosed? Some CFL's will overheat in those. Also any
made by Lights of America are junk. I've had mixed results with Feit and
Commercial Electric, both made in China. Some are very good and some are
lousy. I had a whole rash of capacitor failures that I was able to fix and
others have failed by burning out one of the cathodes in the tube making
them junk. Turning them on often will shorten their life as well.

 

[James Sweet]

US made might be better if you can find them. Often they all come from the
same factories, and the prices differ because of greed, not quality.

I think the only US made CFL's these days are LOA which are made very
poorly, likely to compete in price. If you want solid dependable quality
look into the Philips CFL's, but they cost several times what the cheap
Chinese stuff does. For the best in reliability look on ebay for some
ballasts for 13W quad tubes, then find some tubes and buy sockets online to
retrofit your existing fixtures. I've gotten nice name brand Advance
electronic ballasts for a few dollars each, recently got a batch of 4
1%-100% dimmable ballasts for $20, each will run a pair of 18W quads.

 

[James Sweet]

I have not had any of the really smnall ones like you referred to, but
have some considerable use of the larger wattages. Name brands, like
GE and Sylvania have held up well. Lights of America have been pretty
poor, others somewhere in between. I have taken to saving the
guarantees and using them whenever I had a failure. It is barely
worth the trouble, but we need to hold manufacturers to the fire and
so I go through the process.

To their credit, I had Feit send me some replacement lamps for free when I
explained a rash of early failures. LOA wanted me to mail them the old lamps
along with the reciept from when I bought them, even if I'd found the
reciept it'd cost more to mail the lamps than to buy new ones.

 

[Andy Cuffe]

On Thu, 07 Oct 2004 10:52:33 -0400, "Peter E. Orban"
<peter.orban@nrc.ca> wrote:

Hi Everyone,

We replaced most of our incandescent light bulbs with compact
fluorescent bulbs about a year and a half ago (it was before the NA
blackout last year). The bulbs are holding up fine, except in the
bathrooms, and I am wondering what could be the reason.

There could be several reasons for the high failure rate.

Are the problem bulbs the same type as the ones in the rest of the
house? I've noticed a huge difference in reliability from model to
model. Some experience electronic failures long before the tube fails
and others keep working even after the tube has become too dim to be
useful. Price can be a good indication of quality, but not always.
I've got a pair of $1 IKEA branded lamps in an enclosed fixture that's
turned on for at least 12 hours a day. It's been over a year and
they're still working fine.

Another thing that can kill them is excessive heat. Lamps that are in
enclosed fixtures will fail much sooner than ones that are completely
in the open. I'm sure moisture doesn't help either.

Finally, they don't like being turned on and off a lot. Since
bathroom lights tend to be used for short periods many times a day
this could be a factor.
Andy Cuffe
baltimora@psu.edu

 

[James Sweet]

"Geoff C" <notinterestedin@spa.comm> wrote in message
news:yMj9d.4630$pl.67354@nasal.pacific.net.au...

keith <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote in
newsan.2004.10.07.02.30.33.895207@att.bizzzz:

One time back in the '60s (when I was a mere lad playing with
electronics) a friend and I were talking about these new-fangled LED
thingys. He said they were no big deal and had them for some time. He
then took a small-signal glass-encapsulated diode from his
pile-o-parts, bent the leads about 3/4" apart and grabbed it with
long-nosed pliers. He then shoved it into the mains outlet and sure
enough it lit up, and quite brightly too!

I once had a bizarre failure of a USR modem immediately after a
thunderstorm. You would think it would be a typical frying of the phone
circuits etc. When I checked it out, the relay coil was open circuit. This
of course is on the control cctry and not the telecom side. I replaced the
relay and it worked perfectly. Can only assume it was a coincidence since
if it was a voltage surge it should have taken out the semis on the relay
drive.

Lightning can cause some very bizarre failures indeed. I had a USR modem
years ago that failed after a nearby lightning strike (rare here) and the
problem turned out to be a 10 ohm surface mount resistor with a crater in
it. Replaced it with a normal resistor and it worked fine until it was
retired years later.

 

[NSM]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jcp9d.5644$eq1.2343@trnddc08...

| Lightning can cause some very bizarre failures indeed. I had a USR modem
| years ago that failed after a nearby lightning strike (rare here) and the
| problem turned out to be a 10 ohm surface mount resistor with a crater in
| it. Replaced it with a normal resistor and it worked fine until it was
| retired years later.

What most people think is caused by lightning is really caused by induction.
A direct lightning strike will turn your computer etc. into a pile of
bubbling slag. A strike near the phone line causing induction elsewhere will
zap things in very odd ways.

N

 

[John Woodgate]

I read in sci.electronics.design that James Sweet
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote (in <1Go9d.12392$na.2379@trnddc04&gt about
'Compact fluorescent light failures', on Fri, 8 Oct 2004:

I think the only US made CFL's these days are LOA which are made very
poorly, likely to compete in price.

What about GE?
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
The good news is that nothing is compulsory.
The bad news is that everything is prohibited.
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk