Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article
<7468ba03-1464-4eff-82e3-3523b0c06cf0@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com>,
Vasos Panagiotopoulos <vasjpan2@gmail.com> wrote:

Ok, but my question is what is the socket. Radio Shack sell sthis bulb
(which was for my bike) as incandescent as "standard flashlight bulb". I
appreciate the scemantics, but what is the socket for this bulb here:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062388&cp=2032058.2032232.2032296&parentPage=family

E10 or MES - miniature Edison screw. But not all flashlights use this.

This may be some help:-
http://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/article/fittings-caps-and-bases/

--
*How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4fdf9c4d9fdave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <kHozk.64141$uW7.9827@newsfe13.ams2>,
Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
The latest issue of Elektor magazine contains a very good article on
exactly that - using a LED to replace an incandescent bulb in an ac
driven pushbike lamp. However, it should be noted that some countries
apparently do not allow the 'upgrade' from bulb to LED.

Would that worry any cyclist in any country? ;-)

--
*I'm not as think as you drunk I am.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Well no, I guess not probably, but I thought it was worth mentioning, as
they went to the trouble to mention it in the article. You must remember
that some continental police forces have absolute zero tolerance of traffic
related offences. Denmark or Sweden or some such Scandinavian place is one.
The Frogs are also pretty pedantic about their traffic laws, so if you
should happen to live in a country with draconian traffic laws, and you were
reading this thread and fancied doing it, I was just pointing out that you
could end up with a fine for your troubles ...

Arfa

 

[Brad]

Hi,

I looked inside, but I didn't see a "unique" capacitor. All capacitors
looked like conventional types.

Also, this scanner is holding memory. I can unplug the power
source, then later plug it in and the memory is still there. I asked
the customer if this loss of memory occurred around the time of a
storm. He said "no".

Brad


On Mon, 15 Sep 2008 13:08:01 GMT, in sci.electronics.repair you wrote:

Hi,

I have a Bearcat BC 855XLT scanner (scanning radio) in my service shop.
No schematic. The radio lost all it's memory, but I was able to reprogram
some of the channels and the radio works.

The OM says, "A unique capacitor type memory back-up eliminates the need
for batteries". I suspect that maybe this capacitor is going bad(?), but
since I don't have a schematic, I have no idea where this capacitor is
located.

Thanks in advance, Brad

Before you type your password, credit card number, etc.,
be sure there is no active keystroke logger (spyware) in your PC.

 

[Anon]

<bill@love.ranch> wrote in message
news:ahttc417cf6b323ut515begip0s1t157g7@4ax.com...

I have a Viewsonic 17, model 1782, Chassis series 17HV2, computer
monitor - made by Matsushita 1994.
Was working fine - cut it off, transported to office - carefully!
Turned on - power LED came on for about 1 sec then faded off.
When it goes off, there is a sound like the degaussing coil
energizing. I pulled that connection and it does the same thing.

Seems like there is a load on one of the rails causing the whole
switcher to shut down. All caps (that I can see without removing the
main PCB) look OK - no buldging. Nothing smoking, smelling, or
burning.

I have a schematic for a 17G but I can't find the power LED on it.
Some connector designations match - like the degaussing coil
connector. So it is probably not exactly a 1782.

Any experience or how to troubleshoot hints??

thanks

bill

Bill,

Something to consider - unsupported refresh rates or resolutions can result
in the symptom described. Whenever changing out different spec monitors,
change the display to the most basic, VGA 640x480, before disconnecting the
old monitor.

FWIW, my old Viewsonic 17 failed on a number of different resolutions,
starting with the high refresh rates, over the course of two years, before
finally failing completely on any setting.

Scott
in Dunedin, FL

 

[PanHandler]

If it's loose, tighten it.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"1PW" <barcrnahgjuvfgyr@nby.pbz> wrote in message
newsoSdnaA0RIG6C1PVnZ2dnUVZ_uednZ2d@comcast.com...

On 09/14/2008 11:09 AM, Michael A. Terrell sent:
Arfa Daily wrote:
OK. The mail I tried to send you bounced, so guess the email addr is not
valid. Please mail me off-group with a valid address, and I'll send you
something about the "Blue" that you will find interesting, I'm sure.

Arfa


It is in ROT-13



Hi Michael:

...and the one in the sig block is ROT47. Still, once you're harvested,
the spam/phishing/scams never stop.

http://www.webutils.pl/ROTencode

Pete

--
1PW

@?6A62?FEH9E=6o2@=]4@> [r4o7t]

Pete
Did you receive the mail with the PDF attachment ?

Arfa

 

[Stacey Chuffo]

"Jerry G." <top@posting.idiot> wrote in message
news:243bd3b2-1374-4ee7-9d7c-c4bd7e3ca5bc@m45g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

I would seriously consider consulting a child phsycologist
to find out the proper way to deal with this!

Considering that psychiatry/psychology is a pseudoscience I would expect
little if any results.

Maybe denying the child from watching TV for a number of months,
limiting him to a very restricted social life with his friends, and
taking aways his favorite toys for the same period of time may
convince him to behave.

You obviously never raised a child. I haven't either but I can't imagine
anything working except for putting the brat's hand on a hot stove filiment,
preferably with the controls turned on "high".

Jerry G.

Stacey C.

 

[Stacey Chuffo]

"Brad" <bpetria@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:48ce5c91.5195908@news.verizon.net...

Hi,

I have a Bearcat BC 855XLT scanner (scanning radio) in my service shop.
No schematic. The radio lost all it's memory, but I was able to
reprogram
some of the channels and the radio works.

The OM says, "A unique capacitor type memory back-up eliminates the
need
for batteries". I suspect that maybe this capacitor is going bad(?),
but
since I don't have a schematic, I have no idea where this capacitor is
located.

I would hope the capacitor would be located inside the radio, where else
would the motherfucker be?

What makes you think that it's the capacitor? It could be the resistor
connected in series with the motherfucker or the memory chip itself going
bad.

Thanks in advance, Brad

Before you type your password, credit card number, etc.,
be sure there is no active keystroke logger (spyware) in your PC.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Hate to spoil things, but does it have full-bandwidht I/Q demodulation?

Not likely.

 

[Bruce Esquibel]

In sci.electronics.repair HiC <brassplyer@yahoo.com> wrote:

I've fiddled with the Std/CATV switch on the back, the VCR/TV switch
on the front, nothing seems to have an effect. On newer VCR's I've
had, going in to the RCA's is accomplished by selecting "Line" on the
channel selector, but this old Sears doesn't have a "Line" channel,
only 2 - 13.

The RCA in's must be there for a reason, any suggestions as to what I
need to do?

It's probably just one of those non-obvious things.

If it's only going from 2-13, that is sort of a tip off something isn't
right. Even the oldest 1st generation machines had uhf tuners. Since it
seems to use an electronic tuner (digital display) chances are it needs to
be programmed in.

I remember I think it was RCA that used off channels like 97, 98 or 99 for
the aux inputs.

Another possibility is the remote, there were some Zenith/GS ones that the
aux inputs were only selectable on the remote (input select). If you are
missing the remote, is a real possibility.

As you probably figured out, the whole Sears/LXI series was just re-badged
"something else", not sure if they were loyal to one outsource or another.
Seem to remember them using anything underneath, Fisher, Sanyo, RCA,
Samsung.

I'll take a quick look to see if their model number crosses over to
something else but this "problem" is easily solvable by a trip to the local
Salvation Army or local thrift store where you could get a different machine
to do what you want for probably $10 these days.

-bruce
bje@ripco.com

 

[William R. Walsh]

It is absolutely no wonder why nobody ever talks about what happens when
things go right.

So the person who bought this TV really likes it and thinks it's the best TV
ever made. Even if isn't, so what?

William (has this 1983 era Zenith 13" table TV that to this very day works
so unbelievably well...oh wait, never mind...)

 

[Brad]

Hi,

Thanks to everyone for your help.

Obviously, "Stacey" is a juvenile.

This scanner has been working just fine in my shop, so I returned it
to my customer.
Brad

On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 13:31:20 GMT, in sci.electronics.repair you wrote:

Hi,

I looked inside, but I didn't see a "unique" capacitor. All capacitors
looked like conventional types.

Also, this scanner is holding memory. I can unplug the power
source, then later plug it in and the memory is still there. I asked
the customer if this loss of memory occurred around the time of a
storm. He said "no".

Brad


On Mon, 15 Sep 2008 13:08:01 GMT, in sci.electronics.repair you wrote:

Hi,

I have a Bearcat BC 855XLT scanner (scanning radio) in my service shop.
No schematic. The radio lost all it's memory, but I was able to reprogram
some of the channels and the radio works.

The OM says, "A unique capacitor type memory back-up eliminates the need
for batteries". I suspect that maybe this capacitor is going bad(?), but
since I don't have a schematic, I have no idea where this capacitor is
located.

Thanks in advance, Brad

Before you type your password, credit card number, etc.,
be sure there is no active keystroke logger (spyware) in your PC.

 

[William R. Walsh]

Hi!

MP4 is purchased music that is protected.

No, that's M4P. The unprotected version of these is known as an "M4A" type.

I think the OP really means MPEG-4...

William

 

[William R. Walsh]

Hi!

Not to p*ss on anyone's parade or anything, but quite frankly, I
can't fathom how anyone can rave over analog CRT TVs anymore.

One thing is the longevity...I've seen my old CRT TVs go past their 10th,
20th, and even 25th birthdays, and they still work as well as they ever did.
Most have required nothing more than simple cleaning of the screen to keep
right on plugging along.

I *like* that kind of a lifetime out of a product, and I'm not sure we'll
ever see it with the more modern LCD and Plasma TV sets. (Or maybe even the
modern CRT sets for that matter.) I'm of the strong belief that most (if not
all) of them won't last nearly as long because they were not made as well.

I am not saying that I would never buy an LCD or plasma TV set, but right
now I see no reason to do so. I don't have any need for anything more than
what the sets I have can offer, and I'm not going to throw them out while
they still work fine and meet my needs.

William

 

[William R. Walsh]

Hi!

A 2SC4288A, I assume is the HOT, is shorted all the way around.

An IRFPF40, which may not be a transistor, is short on what would
normally be base to collector.

I know there are components like caps that can blow these out -
anybody have a familiarity with this one?

That is exactly where I'd start. Get those caps out of there and test them,
or just replace them and the bad parts. Then bring the power up carefully,
and I'll bet you're back in business again.

If the monitor had a good picture, it should be worth repairing.

William

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article
<1cd885a4-83c0-4224-835d-f9ae3ce74a13@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com>,
<francesco.messineo@gmail.com> wrote:

This little electronic ballast for a 11W fluorescent tube (2 pin one)
failed.
I found a bad electrolitic a fried 1.2 ohm resistor and a shorted
active device which I failed to identify. Looks like a TO-126
transistor, it is marked Si 1300313.
There's another identical transistor, but either is burned too (but
not shorted like the other) or isn't either BJT nor mosfet as every
terminal has some measurable resistance (in the hundreds of ohms
range) with every other terminal, either polarity (but resistance is
different with polarity reversed).
Any hint on how to identify this? Would be easier to just buy another
one, but this stupid thing failed after only 8 months use, I wouldn't
want to change ballasts more often than lamps.

You can sometimes wreck a similar sized CFL and use the ballast from that.
Cheaper than buying spare parts.

--
*Starfishes have no brains *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Vale]

<francesco.messineo@gmail.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:1cd885a4-83c0-4224-835d-f9ae3ce74a13@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com...

Hello all,

This little electronic ballast for a 11W fluorescent tube (2 pin one)
failed.
I found a bad electrolitic a fried 1.2 ohm resistor and a shorted
active device which I failed to identify. Looks like a TO-126
transistor, it is marked Si 1300313.
There's another identical transistor, but either is burned too (but
not shorted like the other) or isn't either BJT nor mosfet as every
terminal has some measurable resistance (in the hundreds of ohms
range) with every other terminal, either polarity (but resistance is
different with polarity reversed).
Any hint on how to identify this? Would be easier to just buy another
one, but this stupid thing failed after only 8 months use, I wouldn't
want to change ballasts more often than lamps.

Francesco, have a look at Todis hard discount.
They have complete set, case-switch on it-cable and plug, at 4,50 euro only.
Just ready to fit and eventually extend to others 'cause have fitted on side
an extension socket.
Not worth to repair.
ciao Valerio

 

[Joe]

"BM5680" <pjacun@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ab02f906-5ed5-4de6-b362-bc0f8f9cab77@k37g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

I have a 52" Sharp Aquos that my kid threw a toy at and cracked the
screen. Can this be repaired? Any idea of cost?

Thanks,

Paul

Only way to repair it to get new display element and usually that costs more
than a new TV.

-J-

 

[PanHandler]

"BM5680" <pjacun@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ab02f906-5ed5-4de6-b362-bc0f8f9cab77@k37g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

I have a 52" Sharp Aquos that my kid threw a toy at and cracked the
screen. Can this be repaired? Any idea of cost?

Ever see the Patrick Swayze movie 'Roadhouse'? Build a metal net across the
front of the replacement TV.

 

[nipperchipper]

you have some bad capacitors arround the vertical IC
not an expensive fix

"jim evans" <jimsTAKEOUTnews2@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:v4rad4tapknjge0fvc6pplv8kljr6lm3rb@4ax.com...

I have a 4 year old Sony CRT TV. Recently it began having lines
across the top of the screen when first turned on. At first the lines
would go away after an extended warmup -- they've quit going away. For
about the last 20 years I've quit getting TVs repaired. It usually
costs about half or more as much as a new TV and after it's fixed you
have an old TV. But, the set still has a good picture, so after only
four years, if this is an easy thing to fix I figured I might give it
a try. So, will this probably be an easy (read cheap) fix?

Here are pictures that illustrate the problem:
http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/1373/tvlines1om3.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/5002/tvlines2jh2.jpg