Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4fde93b1dfdave@davenoise.co.uk...
In article <gaid3k$hdo$1@inews.gazeta.pl>,
N Cook <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote:
Looking a bit deeper the main problem stations are on UHF Channel 33,
Mux D the highest frequency of the local (Rowridge) group. Unless anyone
knows how to push the problem into the totally junk and so deleted
shopping channels, looks like a new yagi and downlead.

If you can ascertain the age of the aerial in certain areas, as has been
said, it may not be suitable for all the FreeView muxes - in the same way
as some weren't suitable for Ch5. It all depends on the frequencies used
locally. In the London area the muxes are within the existing grouping -
you'd need to look it up for Rowridge. There are probably some yagis
still in use from the early BBC2 days which were peaked for just the one
frequency.

A near neighbour has no problem with any freeview channel with a
relatively short Yaggi in his loft space.

Could be a wideband type.

The immediate neighbour, so yaggi only a couple of
feet away and parallel, uses a line powered headend amp which perhaps
could be radiating/interfering/coupling. Perhaps a different mounting
position should be considered also.

A few feet can make a difference. But while you're up there you might as
well change it. If you're in a reasonable field strength area go for a log
beam. Nice smooth response and good DP. And use a decent satellite cable
rather than plain UHF. I like these people for such things - and their
strap chimney mounting is a delight to use.

https://www.blake-uk.com/page/aerial_dml

--
*Gravity is a myth, the earth sucks *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Click to expand...

I agree on all points. A decent log periodic is the way to go. Also remember
that any amp, if required, must also be 'digital specified' which in
practice means wideband and masthead. CT100 is a good choice for the coax.

A different position for the aerial can make all the difference. Many years
ago, in the early UHF colour days, I was installing a TV in a village that
was a very difficult reception area, being in a complete hollow in the
countryside. We arranged for the aerial man to be there at the same time as
us. I clearly remember him walking backwards and forwards along the house's
ridge line, with an aerial 6 foot long on a 10 foot pole in his arms looking
for somewhere to get a signal. Success was the difference between a chimney
stack on one end of the house, and another one thirty feet away at the other
end ...

Arfa
 
"1PW" <barcrnahgjuvfgyr@nby.pbz> wrote in message
news:adydnXLw1eMz1FHVnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
On 09/13/2008 05:15 AM, Arfa Daily sent:
"1PW" <barcrnahgjuvfgyr@nby.pbz> wrote in message
news:Ut2dnWDkJuFW7VbVnZ2dnUVZ_s-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
On 09/13/2008 12:38 AM, jakdedert sent:
My Dick Smith Series II meter is giving me fits. Upon initial power
up,
it works fine. Then it starts giving erroneous high ESR readings.
When
this happens, I attempt to zero the meter. Instead, it shuts off, and
refuses to zero out.

After a few moments, it works fine again until the entire cycle starts
again.

I subbed a 9v battery for the included pack...mostly because I didn't
have any AAAs around when I first built it. The unit gets light use
around my hobby shop. The battery reads 9.05v open circuit, and pulls
down to 9.01v under load, so I don't believe it to be the fault
(although I included the info, just in case).

Anyone have similar issues?

jak
Hello:

I have the original so that won't help but, does this?

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/esrprob.htm

Please let us know.

Good luck to you!

--
1PW

@?6A62?FEH9:DE=6o2@=]4@> [r4o7t]


Second item down in the section "Power Control Problems" or fourth item
down
in "Incorrect Readings and Display 'Freezing' " sections on the page
linked
by 1PW seem as though they might cover it, Jak

Arfa



Hello Arfa:

I used my original K7204 DSE ESR meter kit for troubleshooting computer
peripherals and computer terminals for years. I'm sorry to say I didn't
keep updated over the years. Why do you think Dick Smith Electronics
discontinued it and the K7214 Mark II? I've read your postings
regarding others. Have any other low cost alternatives come to market
recently that look good to you? Back in 2006, I see a thread where you
folks had discussed the Peak ESR60 in passing and the BlueESR Kit from
http://www.mainelectronics.com/esrkit.htm> certainly looks OK. I've
also seen the Anatek comparisons but perhaps they're somewhat self
serving. Thank you!

Pete
Click to expand...
I've sent you a mail off-group Pete. Let me know.

Arfa
 
"Charles" <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:SeqdnQRcBdU63VHVnZ2dnUVZ_qDinZ2d@comcast.com...
Multipath?
Click to expand...
Well, of course Charles, we all know in the UK that digital doesn't suffer
from multipath. In fact it's immune from everything ! The government says so
.... d;~}

Arfa
 
"Charles" <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:SeqdnQRcBdU63VHVnZ2dnUVZ_qDinZ2d@comcast.com...
Multipath?
Click to expand...
Well, of course Charles, we all know in the UK that digital doesn't suffer
from multipath. In fact it's immune from everything ! The government says so
.... d;~}

Arfa
 
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:zW5zk.20236$t_1.1528@newsfe30.ams2...
"1PW" <barcrnahgjuvfgyr@nby.pbz> wrote in message
news:adydnXLw1eMz1FHVnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
On 09/13/2008 05:15 AM, Arfa Daily sent:
"1PW" <barcrnahgjuvfgyr@nby.pbz> wrote in message
news:Ut2dnWDkJuFW7VbVnZ2dnUVZ_s-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
On 09/13/2008 12:38 AM, jakdedert sent:
My Dick Smith Series II meter is giving me fits. Upon initial power
up,
it works fine. Then it starts giving erroneous high ESR readings.
When
this happens, I attempt to zero the meter. Instead, it shuts off, and
refuses to zero out.

After a few moments, it works fine again until the entire cycle starts
again.

I subbed a 9v battery for the included pack...mostly because I didn't
have any AAAs around when I first built it. The unit gets light use
around my hobby shop. The battery reads 9.05v open circuit, and pulls
down to 9.01v under load, so I don't believe it to be the fault
(although I included the info, just in case).

Anyone have similar issues?

jak
Hello:

I have the original so that won't help but, does this?

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/esrprob.htm

Please let us know.

Good luck to you!

--
1PW

@?6A62?FEH9:DE=6o2@=]4@> [r4o7t]


Second item down in the section "Power Control Problems" or fourth item
down
in "Incorrect Readings and Display 'Freezing' " sections on the page
linked
by 1PW seem as though they might cover it, Jak

Arfa



Hello Arfa:

I used my original K7204 DSE ESR meter kit for troubleshooting computer
peripherals and computer terminals for years. I'm sorry to say I didn't
keep updated over the years. Why do you think Dick Smith Electronics
discontinued it and the K7214 Mark II? I've read your postings
regarding others. Have any other low cost alternatives come to market
recently that look good to you? Back in 2006, I see a thread where you
folks had discussed the Peak ESR60 in passing and the BlueESR Kit from
http://www.mainelectronics.com/esrkit.htm> certainly looks OK. I've
also seen the Anatek comparisons but perhaps they're somewhat self
serving. Thank you!

Pete

I've sent you a mail off-group Pete. Let me know.

Arfa
Click to expand...
OK. The mail I tried to send you bounced, so guess the email addr is not
valid. Please mail me off-group with a valid address, and I'll send you
something about the "Blue" that you will find interesting, I'm sure.

Arfa
 
In article <QIazk.55552$6Y7.43562@newsfe29.ams2>,
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

something about the "Blue" that you will find interesting, I'm sure.
Click to expand...
Arfa-

I assembled the blue one a few months ago, and am quite pleased with it.
The only shortcoming I've found was that it won't measure 99 Ohms! I
tried calibrating it to that, but it always jumps to infinity.

Fred
 
"Chris Oates" <chrisoates999@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:LfudnTeHSJWMRVHVnZ2dnUVZ8rednZ2d@pipex.net...
mark@ems-fife.co.uk> wrote in message
news:a3597d38-662d-4b32-92ba-2e258f27d41f@y21g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
I have a Mitsubishi C5470NS monitor in a cnc machine.The flyback has
packed in and we`re having trouble sourcing one.The number appears to
be:-
MS11 or MSH 1 RAD 193 R634 P51 SA1
Is there a way of knowing what to substitute without schematics?


have a look here
http://www.hrdiemen.es/products/index.php?command=viewSection&id=4&language=eng-GB
Click to expand...
Very often HR's transformers were better quality than the original parts but
I haven't used any for a few years.
 
In article <QIazk.55552$6Y7.43562@newsfe29.ams2>,
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

something about the "Blue" that you will find interesting, I'm sure.
Click to expand...
Arfa-

I assembled the blue one a few months ago, and am quite pleased with it.
The only shortcoming I've found was that it won't measure 99 Ohms! I
tried calibrating it to that, but it always jumps to infinity.

Fred
 
"Chris Oates" <chrisoates999@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:LfudnTeHSJWMRVHVnZ2dnUVZ8rednZ2d@pipex.net...
mark@ems-fife.co.uk> wrote in message
news:a3597d38-662d-4b32-92ba-2e258f27d41f@y21g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
I have a Mitsubishi C5470NS monitor in a cnc machine.The flyback has
packed in and we`re having trouble sourcing one.The number appears to
be:-
MS11 or MSH 1 RAD 193 R634 P51 SA1
Is there a way of knowing what to substitute without schematics?


have a look here
http://www.hrdiemen.es/products/index.php?command=viewSection&id=4&language=eng-GB
Click to expand...
Very often HR's transformers were better quality than the original parts but
I haven't used any for a few years.
 
The older Epson printers are notorious for clogging. I tried everything I
knew , but could not get two of them unclogged after I received them after
sitting unused for several months/years. If you do a web search, you will
find many who can share their own tales of frustration with that design
(print head is separate from the ink delivery.) Good luck.

Bob

"Jstein" <stein.jesse@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:226340ec-9f68-496d-bb62-09b268cd731d@m3g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
Hi everyone,

I am having an issue with my Epson R260 inkjet printer. I recently
tried to print a document and discovered that cyan was not printing.
The printer was inactive for roughly 3 weeks. I performed numerous
head cleanings and nozzle checks and nothing seemed to solve the
problem.

Any advice you can give would be much appreciated. I would really
love to get this printer up and running again. Thank you in advance.

-Jesse
Click to expand...
 
The older Epson printers are notorious for clogging. I tried everything I
knew , but could not get two of them unclogged after I received them after
sitting unused for several months/years. If you do a web search, you will
find many who can share their own tales of frustration with that design
(print head is separate from the ink delivery.) Good luck.

Bob

"Jstein" <stein.jesse@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:226340ec-9f68-496d-bb62-09b268cd731d@m3g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
Hi everyone,

I am having an issue with my Epson R260 inkjet printer. I recently
tried to print a document and discovered that cyan was not printing.
The printer was inactive for roughly 3 weeks. I performed numerous
head cleanings and nozzle checks and nothing seemed to solve the
problem.

Any advice you can give would be much appreciated. I would really
love to get this printer up and running again. Thank you in advance.

-Jesse
Click to expand...
 
In article <8m1rc4t3fn3nf6kk8llohiuna40pqbnrd2@4ax.com>,
PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> wrote:

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 17:52:58 +0000 (UTC),
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:

THe bulb which Radio Shack sells as "standard flashlight bulb"

There is no such thing as a 'Standard Flashlight Bulb'. Flashlight
bulbs are typically rated based on the number of cells (batteries) in
the flashlight, two, three, four, five, for example.


I realised too late it is not E5

Is it E7? I want LED versions

I want one for my bike generator but I have many flashlights
Click to expand...

Peter & VJP-

I agree that there is no standard. In addition to the number of cells,
bulbs are often "prefocused" while some are not, and may have plain,
screw-in or bayonet bases.

I found a Sears Craftsman LED bulb, that is supposed to work as a
replacement for prefocused incandescent bulbs in flashlights with one to
five cells (1.5 to 8 volts). It is their stock number 34-93044,
"Variable Power L.E.D. Upgrade".

I tried it in an old flashlight with two C-cells. It was brighter than
the old bulb, but does not compare to a good 1-Watt or 3-Watt LED
flashlight. In addition, it costs almost as much as one of those.

You may or may not be able to use one of these with a bicycle generator.
My generator produces alternating current. I could only use a half-wave
rectifier to convert its output to DC, since one side of both the
generator and the bulb are connected to the frame of the bike.

Fred
 
"Fred McKenzie" <fmmck@aol.com> wrote in message
news:fmmck-50E2DA.01474715092008@nntp.aioe.org...
In article <8m1rc4t3fn3nf6kk8llohiuna40pqbnrd2@4ax.com>,
PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> wrote:

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 17:52:58 +0000 (UTC),
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:

THe bulb which Radio Shack sells as "standard flashlight bulb"

There is no such thing as a 'Standard Flashlight Bulb'. Flashlight
bulbs are typically rated based on the number of cells (batteries) in
the flashlight, two, three, four, five, for example.


I realised too late it is not E5

Is it E7? I want LED versions

I want one for my bike generator but I have many flashlights


Peter & VJP-

I agree that there is no standard. In addition to the number of cells,
bulbs are often "prefocused" while some are not, and may have plain,
screw-in or bayonet bases.

I found a Sears Craftsman LED bulb, that is supposed to work as a
replacement for prefocused incandescent bulbs in flashlights with one to
five cells (1.5 to 8 volts). It is their stock number 34-93044,
"Variable Power L.E.D. Upgrade".

I tried it in an old flashlight with two C-cells. It was brighter than
the old bulb, but does not compare to a good 1-Watt or 3-Watt LED
flashlight. In addition, it costs almost as much as one of those.

You may or may not be able to use one of these with a bicycle generator.
My generator produces alternating current. I could only use a half-wave
rectifier to convert its output to DC, since one side of both the
generator and the bulb are connected to the frame of the bike.

Fred
Click to expand...
The latest issue of Elektor magazine contains a very good article on exactly
that - using a LED to replace an incandescent bulb in an ac driven pushbike
lamp. However, it should be noted that some countries apparently do not
allow the 'upgrade' from bulb to LED.

Arfa
 
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:BP6dnYuEidLfzlDVnZ2dnUVZ_oWdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
Arfa Daily wrote:

OK. The mail I tried to send you bounced, so guess the email addr is not
valid. Please mail me off-group with a valid address, and I'll send you
something about the "Blue" that you will find interesting, I'm sure.

Arfa


It is in ROT-13


The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.
Click to expand...

Thanks Michael. We're in touch now.

Arfa
 
"Fred McKenzie" <fmmck@aol.com> wrote in message
news:fmmck-AD5101.15174614092008@nntp.aioe.org...
In article <QIazk.55552$6Y7.43562@newsfe29.ams2>,
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

something about the "Blue" that you will find interesting, I'm sure.

Arfa-

I assembled the blue one a few months ago, and am quite pleased with it.
The only shortcoming I've found was that it won't measure 99 Ohms! I
tried calibrating it to that, but it always jumps to infinity.

Fred
Click to expand...
I have a Blue as well as a Mk 1, but have never noticed / checked if it does
this. Normally, if measuring low resistance above an expected value of about
20 ohms or so, rather than ESR, I tend to use my conventional DMM, so I
can't say that I've really looked up at the limits of its display
capability. If I get time today, I'll stick a low-value pot across it, and
see where it 'bombs out'.

FWIW, I think that the Blue is a fine successor to the original BP / DSE Mk
1, and represents a very good value for money instrument, particularly if
you take advantage of the additional savings from building it yourself from
the kit.

Arfa
 
Charles <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:G92dna1Ft48x5lDVnZ2dnUVZ_qDinZ2d@comcast.com...
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:0R5zk.20235$t_1.12957@newsfe30.ams2...

"Charles" <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:SeqdnQRcBdU63VHVnZ2dnUVZ_qDinZ2d@comcast.com...


Multipath?


Well, of course Charles, we all know in the UK that digital doesn't
suffer
from multipath. In fact it's immune from everything ! The government
says
so ... d;~}

Sigh. Our government "devolved" from yours.

I find multipath to be a more serious problem (compared to analog) with
many
digital transmission formats. But, what do I know ... I don't work for
the
government.
Click to expand...
Could a multipath problem "knotch" out one specific frequency for all times
of day and weather conditions. I think of it more with wavering effects that
come and go with moving metalwork or weather/time variation.
 
On Mon, 15 Sep 2008 01:47:48 -0400, Fred McKenzie wrote:
PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> wrote:
On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 17:52:58 +0000 (UTC), vjp2 wrote:

THe bulb which Radio Shack sells as "standard flashlight bulb"

There is no such thing as a 'Standard Flashlight Bulb'. Flashlight
bulbs are typically rated based on the number of cells (batteries) in
the flashlight, two, three, four, five, for example.

I realised too late it is not E5

Is it E7? I want LED versions

I want one for my bike generator but I have many flashlights

I agree that there is no standard. In addition to the number of cells,
bulbs are often "prefocused" while some are not, and may have plain,
screw-in or bayonet bases.

I found a Sears Craftsman LED bulb, that is supposed to work as a
replacement for prefocused incandescent bulbs in flashlights with one to
five cells (1.5 to 8 volts). It is their stock number 34-93044,
"Variable Power L.E.D. Upgrade".

I tried it in an old flashlight with two C-cells. It was brighter than
the old bulb, but does not compare to a good 1-Watt or 3-Watt LED
flashlight. In addition, it costs almost as much as one of those.

You may or may not be able to use one of these with a bicycle generator.
My generator produces alternating current. I could only use a half-wave
rectifier to convert its output to DC, since one side of both the
generator and the bulb are connected to the frame of the bike.
Click to expand...
The LED is it's own half-wave rectifier -- at least at low volts and low
current. Elsewise it'll be a used fuse. :)

But, you might want to use a half-wave rectifier _and_ a large uFd
capacitor to smooth out the ripple -- which, at bicycle speeds, would
cause a significantly annoying flicker in the light output, IMO.

Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm
 
Check for bent pins on the video connector. Check that the
signal from your computer is not out of range for the monitor.
The monitor should behave exactly like you described if it's not
receiving a signal from the computer or is disconnected. Some
may come on for a few seconds to show "NO signal" message then
turn off. Aside from that, if you are hearing the degause coil
fire up, chances are that you could have a problem in the flyback
circuit or the high B+ on the power supply. Parts don't have to
buldge, explode or smell to be bad.. You'll need a meter to check
parts and voltages..... Shorted HOT, shorted diodes, bad caps...
both in the main PS and flyback PS. And, maybe if you have a scope or
Freq counter, you could check that the horizontal and vertical signals
are making it to their respective circuits... just incase the video
cable is bad. If this monitor is a monitor that is on a good amount of time,
then I would pay attention to caps in the ps('s).

The schematic will be a general schematic for that series of chassis...
not the monitor. So, there will be some items on it that's not
included in your monitor that is a design for other chassis... however, the
power indictor should definitely be shown... Follow the low B+... it
should be there..... but, I don't think the power indicator will be the
problem.


I have a Viewsonic 17, model 1782, Chassis series 17HV2, computer
monitor - made by Matsushita 1994.
was working fine - cut it off, transported to office - carefully!
Turned on - power LED came on for about 1 sec then faded off.
When it goes off, there is a sound like the degaussing coil
energizing. I pulled that connection and it does the same thing.
I have a schematic for a 17G but I can't find the power LED on it.
Some connector designations match - like the degaussing coil
connector. So it is probably not exactly a 1782.
Any experience or how to troubleshoot hints??
Click to expand...



--
--------------------------------- --- -- -
Posted with NewsLeecher v3.8 Final
Web @ http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet
------------------- ----- ---- -- -
 
In article <kHozk.64141$uW7.9827@newsfe13.ams2>,
Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
The latest issue of Elektor magazine contains a very good article on
exactly that - using a LED to replace an incandescent bulb in an ac
driven pushbike lamp. However, it should be noted that some countries
apparently do not allow the 'upgrade' from bulb to LED.
Click to expand...
Would that worry any cyclist in any country? ;-)

--
*I'm not as think as you drunk I am.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
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