Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
John Byrns wrote:
In article <gbd7k6$7ec$2@aioe.org>, Syl <syl@someplace.com> wrote:
Franc Zabkar a écrit :
On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 18:24:47 -0400, "hifi-tek"
t.hoehler@insightbb.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:
I'd say that 8112 is a YYWW date code.
It is a YYMM date code.
Then how do you account for the "32" in "235-8532K"?
It IS YYWW (that is year and week)
so....235-8532 means 1985, 32nd week. That is why the K is there...
I agree that it is YYWW, but I don't understand what you are saying the
reason
is that the "K" is there? Why is the "K" there?
weeK, to avoid any possible confusion to the date format used.
Syl
Increasing load and watching voltage droop is much more effective and safe,On 2008-09-24, Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
"Andre Majorel" <cheney@halliburton.com> wrote in message
news:slrngdk43u.4vn.cheney@atc5.vermine.org...
Think I might as well increase the load until the transformer
becomes "too hot"...
If you do that, it might be the only time that you do, as it
may well have a thermal fuse embedded in the primary winding,
which will likely fail. Open circuit. Forever ...
Oh. My "too hot" threshold is probably at least 20°C below the
manufacturer's, though. <g
What exactly is the issue with knowing the rating of this
transformer ?
Partly desire to learn what rules of thumb might exist, partly
that I'm going to reuse the transformer to power a few dual
supply circuits and want to know how much I can count on.
Apparently, it is working, as you are able to measure
voltages. Worst case, you could just measure the primary
current with it running the tuner. If it's a 'typical' little
red transformer that is normally to be found in such items,
It does have red adhesive tape around the windings.
then just multiply the power consumption calculated from
measuring the input current, by about 1.5 to get a ballpark
figure for the transformer rating. When I say "ballpark", I
actually mean in the same county, but maybe not the same town
...
Thanks.
On 2008-09-24, Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
"Andre Majorel" <cheney@halliburton.com> wrote in message
news:slrngdk43u.4vn.cheney@atc5.vermine.org...
Think I might as well increase the load until the transformer
becomes "too hot"...
If you do that, it might be the only time that you do, as it
may well have a thermal fuse embedded in the primary winding,
which will likely fail. Open circuit. Forever ...
Oh. My "too hot" threshold is probably at least 20°C below the
manufacturer's, though. <g
What exactly is the issue with knowing the rating of this
transformer ?
Partly desire to learn what rules of thumb might exist, partly
that I'm going to reuse the transformer to power a few dual
supply circuits and want to know how much I can count on.
Apparently, it is working, as you are able to measure
voltages. Worst case, you could just measure the primary
current with it running the tuner. If it's a 'typical' little
red transformer that is normally to be found in such items,
It does have red adhesive tape around the windings.
then just multiply the power consumption calculated from
measuring the input current, by about 1.5 to get a ballpark
figure for the transformer rating. When I say "ballpark", I
actually mean in the same county, but maybe not the same town
...
Thanks.
--
André Majorel <URL:http://www.teaser.fr/~amajorel/
"Je regrette le Concorde. Au moins il vous amenait directement ŕ
l'hôtel." -- Cyrano
That's where I figured you were headed with the "K", but typically the YYWW dateJohn Byrns wrote:
In article <gbd7k6$7ec$2@aioe.org>, Syl <syl@someplace.com> wrote:
Franc Zabkar a écrit :
On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 18:24:47 -0400, "hifi-tek"
t.hoehler@insightbb.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:
I'd say that 8112 is a YYWW date code.
It is a YYMM date code.
Then how do you account for the "32" in "235-8532K"?
It IS YYWW (that is year and week)
so....235-8532 means 1985, 32nd week. That is why the K is there...
I agree that it is YYWW, but I don't understand what you are saying the
reason
is that the "K" is there? Why is the "K" there?
weeK, to avoid any possible confusion to the date format used.
I need the following parts for a Mits. HS-U410 VCR. All these parts
are NLA from Mitsubishi, and this model is probably too new (1996) for
any aftermarket parts to have been made for it. If anyone has any of
these parts laying around, I'd be glad to take them off your hands.
522B057030 Idler assembly
If you know where I can get a hold of one, I would greatly appreciate
the information.
Thanks in advance.
If you know where I can get a hold of one, I would greatly appreciate
the information.
Thanks in advance.
I'm pretty sure it is a coincidence. I have only ever seen such indicationI wonder if the "K" might not have another meaning, such as a code to indicate
which of several factories the device was produced in? If that is the case, the
fact that "K" is the last letter in "week" might just be a coincidence.
Remove the cassette lid and then you won't need the tab part. You'll neverI need the following parts for a Mits. HS-U410 VCR. All these parts
are NLA from Mitsubishi, and this model is probably too new (1996) for
any aftermarket parts to have been made for it. If anyone has any of
these parts laying around, I'd be glad to take them off your hands.
522B057030 Idler assembly
439D039010 or 439P031010 Mode switch - I believe these may be
interchangeable - the 2nd number is listed for the HS-U410(C) Canadian
model. I don't know why the Canadian version would use a different
mode switch than the U.S. version.
752C160020 or 0030 Cassette door. The tab that lifts the door when
ejecting the tape is broken off and missing.
Mike
WB2MEP
Stacey Chuffo wrote:
"jim evans" <jimsTAKEOUTne...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:v4rad4tapknjge0fvc6pplv8kljr6lm3rb@4ax.com...
I have a 4 year old Sony CRT TV. Recently it began having lines
across the top of the screen
Not V hold. An earlier poster said bad caps in the Vertical output
stage. I concur as I replace caps for this problem frequently. If you
searched our maintenance log the keyword is 'foldover. The vertical
retrace simply hasn't finished before the next frame begins.
Yes, that's very likely the problem. A second (similar) symptom,
that the description might also match, is failure to blank during
vertical
retrace (this usually means the screen HV control needs readjusting).
The blanking failure usually gives diagonal lines all the way
up the screen, but they're closer together near the top and will
be most bothersome there.
You need to define the case style needed as the capacity isn't defined byI am looking to buy a couple dozen 400mA NiCads...where do you
recommend for a source and for how much?
In article
6942fae0-a725-4f60-bd23-3b602b20cce9@p25g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,
Too_Many_Tools <too_many_tools@yahoo.com> wrote:
I am looking to buy a couple dozen 400mA NiCads...where do you
recommend for a source and for how much?
You need to define the case style needed as the capacity isn't defined by
this.
Hello,
Does anybody know of a suitable replacement for the optical rotary
encoders that were used on older Agilent/HP 65XX and 66XX power supplies?
These were phased out on the newer generation supplies which use
mechanical types. Agilent no longer has any stock, and advises me to
replace the entire front panel PCB at a cost of $631.00.
I believe that the encoders are part #0960-0822. I have no documentation
on them. Pictures can be seen here:
http://home.comcast.net/~66gtojayw/Agilent_encoder-1.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~66gtojayw/Agilent_encoder-2.jpg
Thanks.
As long as nothing is happening 'mechanically' to the tape path from thatYou can tell if the data is there by the tape counter. If the counter
stops during play at the point where the video ends-it's gone.
JR
Get your refund from PayPal.I needed a service manual today for my very old car radio-cassette.
The only place I could find that listed the model was www.manualuniverse.com.
"Remember, your manual is just a click away, since we deliver it within
minutes of your purchase!" the site says.
Just the ticket! Or it would be except that it's now 11 hours since my
purchase and I've heard nothing, and no responses to my email queries.
Buyer beware!
rgds all,
graham.
A digital camera is a camera that takes still or video photographs,
digitally by recording images on a light-sensitive sensor. Aiptex,
Canon, Casio, Fuji, Fujifilm, Kodak, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic,
Pentax, Polaroid, Samsung, Sanyo, Sony, Strings, Wespro, Yashica are
the major digital camera manufacturers in India. To know more visit:
http://www.naaptol.com/buy-online/WO-shopping-best-deals-W6O/cameras/digital_cameras.html
Don't have the schem handy, so the resistor number doesn't work for me rightHowdy, I have a Sony STR-DE525 that faults to protector mode when turned
on. I have located a2 blown output transistors and a burnt resistor
(R527). I have a print and have verified the two large caps or good. I
would greatly appreciate any tips as to other components to check before
ordering replacement parts. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
thanks, Gary
The sensor does record light for a time. Thast why there is intrgration times, andNo, it doesn't record the images on the light-sensitive sensor -- it records
them on a memory device.
Otherwise, really fascinating stuff. More, please.
"Shopping India" <shopping.naaptol@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1b6d3332-e800-47a9-9e3e-c07873bf9265@c36g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
A digital camera is a camera that takes still or video photographs,
digitally by recording images on a light-sensitive sensor. Aiptex,
Canon, Casio, Fuji, Fujifilm, Kodak, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic,
Pentax, Polaroid, Samsung, Sanyo, Sony, Strings, Wespro, Yashica are
the major digital camera manufacturers in India. To know more visit:
http://www.naaptol.com/buy-online/WO-shopping-best-deals-W6O/cameras/digital_ca
meras.html
On Sep 24, 12:52=A0pm, glenz...@nospam.xmission.com (GMAN) wrote:
In article <ae2f6078-f037-48f7-b321-dbac24736...@y38g2000hsy.googlegroups=
..com>, Mike WB2MEP <michael.w.appenzel...@lmco.com> wrote:
I need the following parts for a Mits. HS-U410 VCR. =A0All these parts
are NLA from Mitsubishi, and this model is probably too new (1996) for
any aftermarket parts to have been made for it. =A0If anyone has any of
these parts laying around, I'd be glad to take them off your hands.
522B057030 Idler assembly
Dou you need the idler assembly or just the rubber tire?http://www.studio=
soundelectronics.com/mbk-28.htm
Basically go here, enter the parts needed in the partsfinder form , and t=
he
guys WILL email you back if they have these parts available. I have never=
had
them not email me promptly with answers.
http://www.studiosoundelectronics.com/pfinder.htm
Been there. done that...
That's where I got the belts from for this VCR.
The idler in this VCR does't have a rubber tire like the older
models. It's a pretty complex gear/clutch assembly that also does the
gear-ratio change for FF/REW. If you look at their description, the
rubber maintenance kit only includes the belts and pinch roller. The
pinch roller was in great condition, so I only originally ordered the
belt kit .
I've been ordering from Studio Sound for years. I tried parts finder
before posting here, and he e-mailed be back within 2-3 hours, saying
he couldn't supply any of those parts and that Mits has discontinued
90% of their VCR parts. Unfortunately, Mits didn't sell parts thru any
of the big distributors in the US, so there wouldn't be any old stock
around. It's too bad Studio Sound didn't get the VCR boneyard when he
bought out diyvcrparts.com a few years ago. I figured someone may
have these parts on a shelf in their shop somewhere.
I was able to get a lower cylinder assembly for my own VCR from
someone on this NG a few years ago,
so I figured I'd try it again...