Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Stacey Chuffo]

<mijbox@mail.com> wrote in message
news:073a511f-19e2-44a6-a98b-b9c4e7139b29@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

I have TV Zenith SS6519G, it works great but sometimes it does not
want to start.
I need to switch ON-OFF many times to start it.
Maybe anyone has an idea how to repear that?
Thanks!

Read the fucking repair F.A.Q. before posting to sci.electronics.repair

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/tvfaq.htm#tvlvp

 

[Stacey Chuffo]

"jim evans" <jimsTAKEOUTnews2@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:v4rad4tapknjge0fvc6pplv8kljr6lm3rb@4ax.com...

I have a 4 year old Sony CRT TV. Recently it began having lines
across the top of the screen when first turned on. At first the lines
would go away after an extended warmup -- they've quit going away. For
about the last 20 years I've quit getting TVs repaired. It usually
costs about half or more as much as a new TV and after it's fixed you
have an old TV. But, the set still has a good picture, so after only
four years, if this is an easy thing to fix I figured I might give it
a try. So, will this probably be an easy (read cheap) fix?

Here are pictures that illustrate the problem:
http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/1373/tvlines1om3.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/5002/tvlines2jh2.jpg

It looks like you need to adjust the vertical hold knob and if that doesn't
work then adjust the vertical size knob in the back of the t.v.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"jim evans" <jimsTAKEOUTnews2@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:bvsad455pq1dnaomvseqn1k2bv7rmaeoaf@4ax.com...

Thanks

On Sat, 20 Sep 2008 15:56:15 -0600, "nipperchipper"
nipperchipper@hotmail.com> wrote:

you have some bad capacitors arround the vertical IC
not an expensive fix

"jim evans" <jimsTAKEOUTnews2@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:v4rad4tapknjge0fvc6pplv8kljr6lm3rb@4ax.com...
I have a 4 year old Sony CRT TV. Recently it began having lines
across the top of the screen when first turned on. At first the lines
would go away after an extended warmup -- they've quit going away. For
about the last 20 years I've quit getting TVs repaired. It usually
costs about half or more as much as a new TV and after it's fixed you
have an old TV. But, the set still has a good picture, so after only
four years, if this is an easy thing to fix I figured I might give it
a try. So, will this probably be an easy (read cheap) fix?

Here are pictures that illustrate the problem:
http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/1373/tvlines1om3.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/5002/tvlines2jh2.jpg

Don't continue to play the TV this way. It could damage the picture tube,
and the vertical output IC is running way too hot.

Mark Z.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"mm" <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:4eqad41f4c8g27439h5loreqfs0lnfibm6@4ax.com...

I just got out of the hospital with a broken arm and abdominal
surgery. (you don't want to know the gory details) It's very hard to
do anything. I live alone.

I have a small microwave whhich had an intermittent fuse. It would be
great to have hot food. I can replace the fuse but finding and
getting and and putting on the metal cover, the cabinet, is probably
beyond me. It it safe to use without that outside cover? How far
away would I have to be.

What if I do find the cover but I can't do more than lay it on top, in
place, but can't even put one screw in. Does the cover help at all
wihout any screws? What about one screw? Does it have to be in
tight?

Thanks a lot.

If you are inclined to email me
for some reason, remove NOPSAM

It's safe enough from a radiation standpoint, but there are probably exposed
high voltage parts inside, and don't forget to unplug it before you change
the fuse.

New microwave ovens are cheap. I recommend just replace it.


Mark Z.

 

[catguy]

"jim evans" <jimsTAKEOUTnews2@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:v4rad4tapknjge0fvc6pplv8kljr6lm3rb@4ax.com...

I have a 4 year old Sony CRT TV. Recently it began having lines
across the top of the screen when first turned on. At first the lines
would go away after an extended warmup -- they've quit going away. For
about the last 20 years I've quit getting TVs repaired. It usually
costs about half or more as much as a new TV and after it's fixed you
have an old TV. But, the set still has a good picture, so after only
four years, if this is an easy thing to fix I figured I might give it
a try. So, will this probably be an easy (read cheap) fix?

Here are pictures that illustrate the problem:
http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/1373/tvlines1om3.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/5002/tvlines2jh2.jpg

Most likely bad electrolytics. Test them with an esr meter and replace as needed.......Paul

 

[Stacey Chuffo]

"John Bachman" <johnREMOVE@anatek.REMOVEmv.com> wrote in message
news:h5kdd45lri8lmq7oqm6dqgle0l19ghfkap@4ax.com...

I am shopping for a plasma TV for my mother-in-law and came across a
Dynex which is $200 less than similar sets by known names.

OK, repair guys, what's the scoop on Dynex?

Why even ask a question like that? Did you ever see the picture on a Dynex?
I did one time at Pest Buy and it was uglier than Ashleigh Cope's snatch.

When the television needs repair, which is usually about 3 hours after the
warranty expires on those cheap brands, then forget it, it's not serviceable
as they do not service them just give you a new one (should one fail during
the warranty period.)

In the long run, you probably won't be saving $200.00.

TIA

John
AnaTek Corporation
www.anatekcorp.com

 

[J. B. Wood]

In article <gb6bcj$m11$1@ra.nrl.navy.mil>, "J.B. Wood"
<john.wood@nrl.navy.mil> wrote:

Hello, all. I have the subject audio preamp/tuner that I purchased way
back in 1991. It has worked flawlessly over the years but yesterday
started randomly power cycling (the unit uses a relay) without operator
intervention. When it's on and feeding the companion GTP-500 II audio
power amp everything works audio-wise except that in addition to the
power cycling, infrared remote control has also been rendered
inoperative. Has anyone seen this or similar behavior in other
products? I currently do not have the service manual. I did unplug the
unit from the AC line for 24+ hours but upon restoring AC power the
problem continues. Thanks for your time and comment.

Hello, and wrt the above I should have said "companion GFA-545 II audio
power amp." Sorry for the confusion. Sincerely,

John Wood (Code 5550) e-mail: wood@itd.nrl.navy.mil
Naval Research Laboratory
4555 Overlook Avenue, SW
Washington, DC 20375-5337

 

[GregS]

In article <slrngdfaik.4vn.cheney@atc5.vermine.org>, Andre Majorel <cheney@halliburton.com> wrote:

I'm trying to get a rough estimate of the rating of a
transformer.

It comes from an AKAI AT-M670L tuner. Transformer part number is
ST41007 TW; L350Y197H01; T 982 TK. No luck searching the web for
these.

Primary: 220 V / 50 Hz.
Secondary #1: 2 x 16.8 V loaded (2 x 5.75 ohm)
Secondary #2: 1 x 3.07 V loaded (2 x 1.5 ohm) (I guess for the VFD).
Fuses on secondary #2: 2 x 315 mA T
Weight: 252 g.
Windings size: about 25 x 25 x 15 mm.
Core size: about 42 x 33 x 22 mm.

I can't find where its in the S.E.R.

You find the voltage drop as you load the outputs individually. The total load
of all outputs will cut down on the added individual outputs. Measure the
output from no load to drop voltage 10-20%, then measure or compute
current.

greg

 

[Bob Shuman]

Dynex is the best Buy house brand name. Usually these units are nearly
identical to the actual manufacturer's brand name unit, but have Dynex
labeling and exterior cases.

Bob

"John Bachman" <johnREMOVE@anatek.REMOVEmv.com> wrote in message
news:h5kdd45lri8lmq7oqm6dqgle0l19ghfkap@4ax.com...

I am shopping for a plasma TV for my mother-in-law and came across a
Dynex which is $200 less than similar sets by known names.

OK, repair guys, what's the scoop on Dynex?

TIA

John
AnaTek Corporation
www.anatekcorp.com

 

[Stacey Chuffo]

<jymb2008@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8ef97088-adbd-47b4-a93c-91f4179d9abc@25g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...

On Sep 21, 11:40 pm, "Stacey Chuffo" <phsd-
every...@promisesandiego.com> wrote:
"John Bachman" <johnREM...@anatek.REMOVEmv.com> wrote in message

news:h5kdd45lri8lmq7oqm6dqgle0l19ghfkap@4ax.com...

I am shopping for a plasma TV for my mother-in-law and came across a
Dynex which is $200 less than similar sets by known names.

OK, repair guys, what's the scoop on Dynex?

Why even ask a question like that? Did you ever see the picture on a
Dynex?
I did one time at Pest Buy and it was uglier than Ashleigh Cope's snatch.

When the television needs repair, which is usually about 3 hours after
the
warranty expires on those cheap brands, then forget it, it's not
serviceable
as they do not service them just give you a new one (should one fail
during
the warranty period.)

In the long run, you probably won't be saving $200.00.

TIA

John
AnaTek Corporation
www.anatekcorp.com

It's better than the retarded hate you spew on alt.tv.game-shows


http://groups.google.com/group/alt.tv.game-shows/topics

Now, try and deny that. Bitch.

I wouldn't deny it for a second, bitch. In fact, not only would I not deny
it, I would tell you why I did it - because Harvey Daye Junior is an
emo-kid-fucking jerkoff and I'll probably do it again. Now if you want to
save $200.00 and buy a cheaper plasma, and teach me a lesson while you're at
it, then that's your prerogative. Now many people including myself, will get
turned on by the lower price, just to have the motherfucker fail shortly
after the warranty. They contact the company and spend hours on hold, that
is only if the company is still in business. Cheaper electronics
manufacturers don't support their products, just replace them if they fail
under warranty. And after the warranty, fuck it as it is more than unlikely
any television repairman can repair it. This isn't the case with name brand
manufacturers which supply parts and service manuals to television
repairmen. So back to the electronics store it is to finally get the name
brand at the higher price, paying more than if you just went with the name
brand to begin with.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"GregS" <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:gb8e5q$l1s$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...

In article <slrngdfaik.4vn.cheney@atc5.vermine.org>, Andre Majorel
cheney@halliburton.com> wrote:
I'm trying to get a rough estimate of the rating of a
transformer.

It comes from an AKAI AT-M670L tuner. Transformer part number is
ST41007 TW; L350Y197H01; T 982 TK. No luck searching the web for
these.

Primary: 220 V / 50 Hz.
Secondary #1: 2 x 16.8 V loaded (2 x 5.75 ohm)
Secondary #2: 1 x 3.07 V loaded (2 x 1.5 ohm) (I guess for the VFD).
Fuses on secondary #2: 2 x 315 mA T
Weight: 252 g.
Windings size: about 25 x 25 x 15 mm.
Core size: about 42 x 33 x 22 mm.


I can't find where its in the S.E.R.

You find the voltage drop as you load the outputs individually. The total
load
of all outputs will cut down on the added individual outputs. Measure the
output from no load to drop voltage 10-20%, then measure or compute
current.

greg

Given that the transformer is likely to be over 85% efficient, the input
power consumption rating printed on the back of the unit will give you a
good idea of the VA rating of it

Arfa

 

[Mr.T]

"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:b83hd455r1ugdncrolsal9trhihcd1723h@4ax.com...

I notice that some (many?) DVD recorders use DVD writers with fine
pitch 40-pin flexible cables rather than the wider 40-pin IDE ribbon
cables used in PCs. I haven't opened up any Panasonic DVDRs, but after
studying various exploded diagrams, it appears that the IDE hard
drives in these units have a small adapter PCB that converts the cable
type from IDE to mini flex. Does this mean that the DVD writers in the
same units are just PC-compatible IDE drives with a smaller but
pin-compatible IDE connector? If so, is it possible to buy one of
these IDE-to-mini-flex adapter boards at a reasonable price?

*IF* (?) this is just the same as a 2.5" IDE HDD connector to 3.5" IDE HDD
connector, then they are readily available at computer shops, Jaycar etc.

MrT.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"J.B. Wood" <john.wood@nrl.navy.mil> wrote in message
news:gb8k30$9m5$1@ra.nrl.navy.mil...

Chuck wrote:
On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 06:42:56 -0400, wood@itd.nrl.navy.mil (J. B. Wood)
wrote:

In article <gb6bcj$m11$1@ra.nrl.navy.mil>, "J.B. Wood"
john.wood@nrl.navy.mil> wrote:

Hello, all. I have the subject audio preamp/tuner that I purchased way
back in 1991. It has worked flawlessly over the years but yesterday
started randomly power cycling (the unit uses a relay) without operator
intervention. When it's on and feeding the companion GTP-500 II audio
power amp everything works audio-wise except that in addition to the
power cycling, infrared remote control has also been rendered
inoperative. Has anyone seen this or similar behavior in other
products? I currently do not have the service manual. I did unplug
the unit from the AC line for 24+ hours but upon restoring AC power the
problem continues. Thanks for your time and comment.
Hello, and wrt the above I should have said "companion GFA-545 II audio
power amp." Sorry for the confusion. Sincerely,

John Wood (Code 5550) e-mail: wood@itd.nrl.navy.mil
Naval Research Laboratory
4555 Overlook Avenue, SW
Washington, DC 20375-5337



My guess would be an open electrolytic capacitor in the power supply.
I no longer have the service manual for this piece, so if someone
could post the schematic on a website, I could be of more assistance.
Chuck

Thanks so much for the quick response, Chuck. I called Adcom today and
the customer service rep said he would send the service manual free of
charge. That's the kind of support that endures me to a vendor. I
described the problem to him and he thinks it may be a processor. I
would still look for the electrolytic first, though, since these are
often parked near a hot running regulator and dry out over a period of
time. This was a recurring problem I had when I was working on Jerrold
CATV 61-channel set top boxes years ago (the box actually remained "on"
as long as it was plugged into an AC outlet). Sincerely,

Could be a power supply issue as someone else posted, but I do also
sometimes see problems involving the front panel which could cause a similar
symptom.

In the case of some later model Sony direct view TV's for example, flaky
tact switches used for the volume, channel, etc would get leaky and cause
their associated functions to trigger randomly or continuously, as well as
disabling the remote...


Mark Z.

 

[hifi-tek]

<snip>

MALLORY
MADE IN U.S.A
TYPE CGS
21000MFD 16 VDC
POS + 85C
MAX SURGE 20 VDC
CGS213U016R3L
362 8906 56699

They all date from around the early 80s.

Here they are pictured among Sprague caps of the same vintage:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/screwcaps70.jpg

I'd say that 8112 is a YYWW date code.

It is a YYMM date code. I have several pieces of vintage medical electronics
equip, and the date codes on the Mallory caps all match closely the date
codes on other parts.

"> MALLORY

MADE IN U.S.A
TYPE CGS
30000MFD 15VDC
POS + 85C
MAX SURGE 20VDC
95661319
235-8102K

This one is from Feb 1982 - and it's Kosher too. ;-)

Remember Sprague's motto?

Don't be vague, ask for Sprague.

a little levity . . . very little . . .
Regards,
Tom

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"AtomicTom" <twilusz@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:6b50d79e-5f7f-48f4-a295-6bb0ff6f3b2c@d77g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

Is there any way to recover footage recorded on digital 8mm video?
I recorded an entire 120 minute tape on a sony DCR-TRV520.
I had even reviewed the footage. Then 5 minutes into the tape it
appears to have been erased. I get a gray screen.

Tapes do not spontaneously erase themselves. Either the original recording
failed at that point, or you have a transport or cassette problem.

 

[John Byrns]

In article <gbd7k6$7ec$2@aioe.org>, Syl <syl@someplace.com> wrote:

Franc Zabkar a écrit :
On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 18:24:47 -0400, "hifi-tek"
t.hoehler@insightbb.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

I'd say that 8112 is a YYWW date code.
It is a YYMM date code.

Then how do you account for the "32" in "235-8532K"?

It IS YYWW (that is year and week)
so....235-8532 means 1985, 32nd week. That is why the K is there...

I agree that it is YYWW, but I don't understand what you are saying the reason
is that the "K" is there? Why is the "K" there?

--
Regards,

John Byrns

Surf my web pages at, http://fmamradios.com/

 

[Arfa Daily]

"AtomicTom" <twilusz@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:6b50d79e-5f7f-48f4-a295-6bb0ff6f3b2c@d77g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

Is there any way to recover footage recorded on digital 8mm video?
I recorded an entire 120 minute tape on a sony DCR-TRV520. I had even
reviewed the footage. Then 5 minutes into the tape it appears to
have been erased. I get a gray screen.

Have you tried playing it back in a different machine ?

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Andre Majorel" <cheney@halliburton.com> wrote in message
news:slrngdk43u.4vn.cheney@atc5.vermine.org...

On 2008-09-23, Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
"GregS" <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:gb8e5q$l1s$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
In article <slrngdfaik.4vn.cheney@atc5.vermine.org>, Andre Majorel
cheney@halliburton.com> wrote:
I'm trying to get a rough estimate of the rating of a
transformer.

It comes from an AKAI AT-M670L tuner. Transformer part number is
ST41007 TW; L350Y197H01; T 982 TK. No luck searching the web for
these.

Primary: 220 V / 50 Hz.
Secondary #1: 2 x 16.8 V loaded (2 x 5.75 ohm)
Secondary #2: 1 x 3.07 V loaded (2 x 1.5 ohm) (I guess for the VFD).
Fuses on secondary #2: 2 x 315 mA T
Weight: 252 g.
Windings size: about 25 x 25 x 15 mm.
Core size: about 42 x 33 x 22 mm.


I can't find where its in the S.E.R.

You find the voltage drop as you load the outputs
individually. The total load of all outputs will cut down on
the added individual outputs. Measure the output from no load
to drop voltage 10-20%, then measure or compute current.

Given that the transformer is likely to be over 85% efficient,
the input power consumption rating printed on the back of the
unit will give you a good idea of the VA rating of it

Well, there is none !

I expected you'd all take from the fuse rating. Interesting that
you didn't... (I made a mistake, BTW : the fuses are on the 16.8 V
windings.)

The measure-current-at-10-to-20%-lower-voltage-than-unloaded
method seems a little vague to me, not knowing what the V vs. I
curve looks like (I know very little about transformers).

Think I might as well increase the load until the transformer
becomes "too hot"...

--
André Majorel <URL:http://www.teaser.fr/~amajorel/
"Je regrette le Concorde. Au moins il vous amenait directement ŕ
l'hôtel." -- Cyrano

If you do that, it might be the only time that you do, as it may well have a
thermal fuse embedded in the primary winding, which will likely fail. Open
circuit. Forever ...

What exactly is the issue with knowing the rating of this transformer ?
Apparently, it is working, as you are able to measure voltages. Worst case,
you could just measure the primary current with it running the tuner. If
it's a 'typical' little red transformer that is normally to be found in such
items, then just multiply the power consumption calculated from measuring
the input current, by about 1.5 to get a ballpark figure for the transformer
rating. When I say "ballpark", I actually mean in the same county, but maybe
not the same town ...

Arfa

 

[GregS]

In article <rtrCk.90389$8G.35358@newsfe29.ams2>, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"Andre Majorel" <cheney@halliburton.com> wrote in message
news:slrngdk43u.4vn.cheney@atc5.vermine.org...
On 2008-09-23, Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
"GregS" <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:gb8e5q$l1s$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
In article <slrngdfaik.4vn.cheney@atc5.vermine.org>, Andre Majorel
cheney@halliburton.com> wrote:
I'm trying to get a rough estimate of the rating of a
transformer.

It comes from an AKAI AT-M670L tuner. Transformer part number is
ST41007 TW; L350Y197H01; T 982 TK. No luck searching the web for
these.

Primary: 220 V / 50 Hz.
Secondary #1: 2 x 16.8 V loaded (2 x 5.75 ohm)
Secondary #2: 1 x 3.07 V loaded (2 x 1.5 ohm) (I guess for the VFD).
Fuses on secondary #2: 2 x 315 mA T
Weight: 252 g.
Windings size: about 25 x 25 x 15 mm.
Core size: about 42 x 33 x 22 mm.


I can't find where its in the S.E.R.

You find the voltage drop as you load the outputs
individually. The total load of all outputs will cut down on
the added individual outputs. Measure the output from no load
to drop voltage 10-20%, then measure or compute current.

Given that the transformer is likely to be over 85% efficient,
the input power consumption rating printed on the back of the
unit will give you a good idea of the VA rating of it

Well, there is none !

I expected you'd all take from the fuse rating. Interesting that
you didn't... (I made a mistake, BTW : the fuses are on the 16.8 V
windings.)

The measure-current-at-10-to-20%-lower-voltage-than-unloaded
method seems a little vague to me, not knowing what the V vs. I
curve looks like (I know very little about transformers).

Think I might as well increase the load until the transformer
becomes "too hot"...

--
André Majorel <URL:http://www.teaser.fr/~amajorel/
"Je regrette le Concorde. Au moins il vous amenait directement ŕ
l'hôtel." -- Cyrano


If you do that, it might be the only time that you do, as it may well have a
thermal fuse embedded in the primary winding, which will likely fail. Open
circuit. Forever ...

What exactly is the issue with knowing the rating of this transformer ?
Apparently, it is working, as you are able to measure voltages. Worst case,
you could just measure the primary current with it running the tuner. If
it's a 'typical' little red transformer that is normally to be found in such
items, then just multiply the power consumption calculated from measuring
the input current, by about 1.5 to get a ballpark figure for the transformer
rating. When I say "ballpark", I actually mean in the same county, but maybe
not the same town ...

Arfa

Knowing the total rating gives little help determining individual windings.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"GregS" <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:gbdj4s$o7s$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...

In article <rtrCk.90389$8G.35358@newsfe29.ams2>, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"Andre Majorel" <cheney@halliburton.com> wrote in message
news:slrngdk43u.4vn.cheney@atc5.vermine.org...
On 2008-09-23, Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
"GregS" <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:gb8e5q$l1s$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
In article <slrngdfaik.4vn.cheney@atc5.vermine.org>, Andre Majorel
cheney@halliburton.com> wrote:
I'm trying to get a rough estimate of the rating of a
transformer.

It comes from an AKAI AT-M670L tuner. Transformer part number is
ST41007 TW; L350Y197H01; T 982 TK. No luck searching the web for
these.

Primary: 220 V / 50 Hz.
Secondary #1: 2 x 16.8 V loaded (2 x 5.75 ohm)
Secondary #2: 1 x 3.07 V loaded (2 x 1.5 ohm) (I guess for the VFD).
Fuses on secondary #2: 2 x 315 mA T
Weight: 252 g.
Windings size: about 25 x 25 x 15 mm.
Core size: about 42 x 33 x 22 mm.


I can't find where its in the S.E.R.

You find the voltage drop as you load the outputs
individually. The total load of all outputs will cut down on
the added individual outputs. Measure the output from no load
to drop voltage 10-20%, then measure or compute current.

Given that the transformer is likely to be over 85% efficient,
the input power consumption rating printed on the back of the
unit will give you a good idea of the VA rating of it

Well, there is none !

I expected you'd all take from the fuse rating. Interesting that
you didn't... (I made a mistake, BTW : the fuses are on the 16.8 V
windings.)

The measure-current-at-10-to-20%-lower-voltage-than-unloaded
method seems a little vague to me, not knowing what the V vs. I
curve looks like (I know very little about transformers).

Think I might as well increase the load until the transformer
becomes "too hot"...

--
André Majorel <URL:http://www.teaser.fr/~amajorel/
"Je regrette le Concorde. Au moins il vous amenait directement ŕ
l'hôtel." -- Cyrano


If you do that, it might be the only time that you do, as it may well have
a
thermal fuse embedded in the primary winding, which will likely fail. Open
circuit. Forever ...

What exactly is the issue with knowing the rating of this transformer ?
Apparently, it is working, as you are able to measure voltages. Worst
case,
you could just measure the primary current with it running the tuner. If
it's a 'typical' little red transformer that is normally to be found in
such
items, then just multiply the power consumption calculated from measuring
the input current, by about 1.5 to get a ballpark figure for the
transformer
rating. When I say "ballpark", I actually mean in the same county, but
maybe
not the same town ...

Arfa


Knowing the total rating gives little help determining individual
windings.

In theory, that may be largely true, but in practice, it will get you in the
area. The winding for the VFD heater can be largely ignored in the
calculation, as it will only be good for the few mA that the heater needs.
That leaves the two identical 'main' windings, and you wouldn't be too far
wrong, given what I said about ballparks, towns and counties, if you just
took the figure calculated from the primary current, and split it between
the two windings, half each.

Arfa