Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <ufWdnSrFx4k701fVnZ2dnUVZ_q_inZ2d@comcast.com>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

It's unlikely that Sony will sell parts, or even a service
manual for something as inexpensive as a clock radio.

Of course they will. But this radio is old enough (I assume) that Sony
no longer stocks parts for it. The manual is probably still available,
but it's likely you'll pay a lot for a photocopy.

Businesses (in general) seem to be increasingly less worried about
breaking the laws that require them to stock service parts.

In the UK it's common to get long warranties on quite low price things - a
3 year one on a 20 quid cordless drill. But they don't repair them if they
go wrong - just give you a like for like replacement or your money back.
Perhaps that's why such things cost about twice as much as in the US. ;-)

--
*I must always remember that I'm unique, just like everyone else. *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <ufWdnSrFx4k701fVnZ2dnUVZ_q_inZ2d@comcast.com>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

It's unlikely that Sony will sell parts, or even a service
manual for something as inexpensive as a clock radio.

Of course they will. But this radio is old enough (I assume) that Sony
no longer stocks parts for it. The manual is probably still available,
but it's likely you'll pay a lot for a photocopy.

Businesses (in general) seem to be increasingly less worried about
breaking the laws that require them to stock service parts.

In the UK it's common to get long warranties on quite low price things - a
3 year one on a 20 quid cordless drill. But they don't repair them if they
go wrong - just give you a like for like replacement or your money back.
Perhaps that's why such things cost about twice as much as in the US. ;-)

--
*I must always remember that I'm unique, just like everyone else. *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <ufWdnSrFx4k701fVnZ2dnUVZ_q_inZ2d@comcast.com>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

It's unlikely that Sony will sell parts, or even a service
manual for something as inexpensive as a clock radio.

Of course they will. But this radio is old enough (I assume) that Sony
no longer stocks parts for it. The manual is probably still available,
but it's likely you'll pay a lot for a photocopy.

Businesses (in general) seem to be increasingly less worried about
breaking the laws that require them to stock service parts.

In the UK it's common to get long warranties on quite low price things - a
3 year one on a 20 quid cordless drill. But they don't repair them if they
go wrong - just give you a like for like replacement or your money back.
Perhaps that's why such things cost about twice as much as in the US. ;-)

--
*I must always remember that I'm unique, just like everyone else. *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <ufWdnSrFx4k701fVnZ2dnUVZ_q_inZ2d@comcast.com>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

It's unlikely that Sony will sell parts, or even a service
manual for something as inexpensive as a clock radio.

Of course they will. But this radio is old enough (I assume) that Sony
no longer stocks parts for it. The manual is probably still available,
but it's likely you'll pay a lot for a photocopy.

Businesses (in general) seem to be increasingly less worried about
breaking the laws that require them to stock service parts.

In the UK it's common to get long warranties on quite low price things - a
3 year one on a 20 quid cordless drill. But they don't repair them if they
go wrong - just give you a like for like replacement or your money back.
Perhaps that's why such things cost about twice as much as in the US. ;-)

--
*I must always remember that I'm unique, just like everyone else. *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Bob Shuman]

Or if you were happy with the features and sound quality, you can usually
find a used replacement unit for whole lot less at your local salvage yard
or by searching E-Bay.

Bob

"Dave" <dspear99ca@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Z0xyk.1999$1x6.2@edtnps82...

"Richard" <richard.pi@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:33231c44-c2da-4247-b527-66b9c5d7ee5b@73g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...
Hi All,

A couple weeks ago my radio in my ford fiesta started to behave very
strangely.

I wonder what it could be. Is there any chance if I restart it somehow
it will work fine again or I just need to go to a ford service
company?


For all intents and purposes, car radios are disposable. It will almost
certainly cost you more to have it fixed (if it's fixable) than to replace
it.

Seriously, it's junk, go get a new one installed.

 

[PanHandler]

"Dave" <dspear99ca@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:H1Byk.2052$1x6.929@edtnps82...

"Bob Shuman" <reshuman@removethis.alcatel-lucent.com> wrote in message
news:48cab63e$1@news.alcatel.com...
Or if you were happy with the features and sound quality, you can usually
find a used replacement unit for whole lot less at your local salvage
yard or by searching E-Bay.


Or, like top-posting Bob notes, junkyards are sometimes good. Don't let
'em rip you off though. Ford radios ain't known for their sonic purity.
For many years Ford used the car's frame as the signal return ground from
the speakers... not a good idea if you know anything about RFI, but it
saved them the cost of 15 feet of 18ga wire, maybe $0.50 if that.

Times a few million vehicles.

 

[Charles]

"Webster" <timwm@pgtc.net> wrote in message
news:d76dnQA3Nf5Lf1fVnZ2dnUVZ_s3inZ2d@pgtc.com...

Would anyone know where I could get a schematic for the NIDA 500
microprocessor trainer?

http://www.nida.com/

Looks like they sell to community colleges and technical schools. Find one
in your area and see if they can help?

 

[Cracker]

cuhulin@webtv.net wrote:

All that modern super duper technology rolling around and there
are no speakers available.HUMPH!

I am not going to wear earphones or earbuds.
cuhulin


It shouldn't be too difficult to locate battery operated wireless
speakers (the transmitter uses a wall-wart); I passed up some
rather substantial ones (solid heavy cases, features visually
suggestive of careful design, not long ago, at Goodwill --
were priced at $4.99.

Michael

I bought mine on E-Bay, $40 plus shipping

 

[William Sommerwerck]

In the UK it's common to get long warranties on quite low price things --
a 3 year one on a 20 quid cordless drill. But they don't repair them if
they
go wrong - just give you a like for like replacement or your money back.
Perhaps that's why such things cost about twice as much as in the US.

It's usually the other 'way round -- products cost less (for whatever
reasons) in the States. I bought a nice name-brand 12V cordless drill for
$20 at Home Despot last Christmas. Hardly pro quality, but fine for light
home work.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

The DC jack on the side of my Toshiba SD-P1600 has a small
barrel in its center, and that barrel has broken off, rendering
the machine unchargable and therefore unusable.

Don't make things worse by sneezing on the unit.

Have you contacted Toshiba?

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"Billy Gilbert" <billygilbert@mgmstockguys.com> wrote in message
news:3rjmc45d61so8s90q7d3g1e6443oqmacgc@4ax.com...

<insane interchange with clueless Toshiba rep snipped>

I was thinking more along the line of purchasing a part. There's a good
chance it's a standard hermaphroditic power jack, and you might be able to
get a replacement from Newark, Allied, Mouser, etc.

I guess I'm the only person here who knows who Billy Gilbert was...

 

[Arfa Daily]

"1PW" <barcrnahgjuvfgyr@nby.pbz> wrote in message
news:Ut2dnWDkJuFW7VbVnZ2dnUVZ_s-dnZ2d@comcast.com...

On 09/13/2008 12:38 AM, jakdedert sent:
My Dick Smith Series II meter is giving me fits. Upon initial power up,
it works fine. Then it starts giving erroneous high ESR readings. When
this happens, I attempt to zero the meter. Instead, it shuts off, and
refuses to zero out.

After a few moments, it works fine again until the entire cycle starts
again.

I subbed a 9v battery for the included pack...mostly because I didn't
have any AAAs around when I first built it. The unit gets light use
around my hobby shop. The battery reads 9.05v open circuit, and pulls
down to 9.01v under load, so I don't believe it to be the fault
(although I included the info, just in case).

Anyone have similar issues?

jak

Hello:

I have the original so that won't help but, does this?

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/esrprob.htm

Please let us know.

Good luck to you!

--
1PW

@?6A62?FEH9E=6o2@=]4@> [r4o7t]

Second item down in the section "Power Control Problems" or fourth item down
in "Incorrect Readings and Display 'Freezing' " sections on the page linked
by 1PW seem as though they might cover it, Jak

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Nathan W" <no@no.spam> wrote in message
news:JaOdnb7qOKB1gVbVnZ2dnUVZ_sninZ2d@comcast.com...

(also posted on sci.electronics.components)

Hello all, I am trying to replace this damaged component (attached photo).
I'm pretty sure it's a surface mount capacitor but I can't figure out what
it's values are or where to get a replacement (digikey?). Thanks to anyone
who can help!

Nathan

It is a surface mount electrolytic cap. The value could be either the top
figure, 100uF or the bottom one 10^8 pf which is also 100uF. The other
figure on there only makes much sense if it is the working voltage at 16v.
However, I have to say that most sm electros in a value of 100uF, are
usually rather less than 16v rated, if only because of restraints in
physical size. Just as a matter of interest, what do you believe to actually
be wrong with this cap ? I have mostly found them to be pretty stable and
reliable unless they actually leak onto the board. You should note that if
you check them with an ESR meter, you are likely to get readings which are
rather higher than you would get with a conventional leaded cap of the same
value / voltage rating. This is quite normal, and does not necessarily
indicate any fault with the component.

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:qZSdnSMrf4lYnlbVnZ2dnUVZ_q7inZ2d@comcast.com...

In the UK it's common to get long warranties on quite low price things --
a 3 year one on a 20 quid cordless drill. But they don't repair them if
they
go wrong - just give you a like for like replacement or your money back.
Perhaps that's why such things cost about twice as much as in the US.

It's usually the other 'way round -- products cost less (for whatever
reasons) in the States. I bought a nice name-brand 12V cordless drill for
$20 at Home Despot last Christmas. Hardly pro quality, but fine for light
home work.

Er, that's what he said William ... " ... cost about twice as much <as
in> the US"

Arfa

 

[Wolfgang Allinger]

On 13 Sep 08 at group /sci/electronics/repair in article
<fynnashba@yahoo.com> (fynnashba@yahoo.com) wrote:

My Hp laserjet 2420 keeps printing engine test until its
out of paper. The problem will not even stop after powering down for
several hours.
This problem occurred after replacing the small 24 volts fan. Even
just after that it worked fine, it was able to print a self test,
config. test and a log file but after boxing I had this problem and
shows this massage 'PRINTING ENGINE TEST" and will start printing
horizontal lines on the paper until its out of paper.
What might b the problem pls help. Thanks

Don't know the 2420. Is there a special button for the test which is
activated by a misaligned box and/or faulty cable, connection, plug...,
telling that the test is needed? Or a misplaced (too long) screw kills a
cable, or a cable is squeezed...

So remove the box and check again.

Saludos Wolfgang

--
Meine 7 Sinne:
Unsinn, Schwachsinn, Blödsinn, Wahnsinn, Stumpfsinn, Irrsinn, Lötzinn.
Wolfgang Allinger Paraguay reply Adresse gesetzt !
ca. 15h00..21h00 MEZ SKYPE:wolfgang.allinger

 

[ian field]

<keep.the.spam.away@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:b708f87c-0804-4686-abb0-b229c9f1a0d1@q5g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
On Sep 12, 10:28 pm, "Mikeydude" <mikeydude(nospam)@hotmail.com>
wrote:

Try here:http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/calc/calccap.php
and here:http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/data/itemsaf/capmarks.php

I'm not sure which 3-digit number represents the value, but I hope this
helps a bit.
For example, if the first number, 100, is the value:
Look it up on the first link I included, and it turns out to be 10pf, 2%.
IF the first number is the value.

keep.the.spam.a...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:67079af3-e50f-4880-8cfb-abab6f3275a1@25g2000prz.googlegroups.com...

Hello all, I am trying to replace this damaged component (
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3282/2852332506_8ce5251b53_m.jpg). I'm
pretty sure it's a surface mount capacitor but I can't figure out
what
it's values are or where to get a replacement (digikey?). Can I just
replace it with a standard radio-shack cap of the same capacitance?
Thanks to anyone who can help!

Nathan

I did find that, but as you said, don't know which one is the value. I
remember once seeing a website that could decode these but I can't
find it.

Since its obviously a SMD electrolytic, the value suggested elsewhere of 2pF
is monumentally silly!

Its hard to judge the size with no other reference so if it was the 108 at
the bottom indicating a one a zero followed by a multiplier of 8 zero's that
could be 1000uF, but it doesn't look that big so I'd go with the top number
"100" as 100uF and 16V.

 

[Bobby]

<keep.the.spam.away@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:67079af3-e50f-4880-8cfb-abab6f3275a1@25g2000prz.googlegroups.com...

Hello all, I am trying to replace this damaged component (
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3282/2852332506_8ce5251b53_m.jpg ). I'm
pretty sure it's a surface mount capacitor but I can't figure out
what
it's values are or where to get a replacement (digikey?). Can I just
replace it with a standard radio-shack cap of the same capacitance?
Thanks to anyone who can help!

Nathan

100uF/16v

 

[N Cook]

Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4fde5f8d2bdave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <gah218$4l3$1@inews.gazeta.pl>,
N Cook <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote:
The same with one of these digital boxes. Good external Yaggi and
downlead and the signal bar is 80 to 100 percent on all stationss except
two. Moving the plastic cased box around there is a point , in mid
space, where the "no signal" box disappears and the signal bar goes to
20 to 30 percent on those channels. Have to be barefoot to work, also
wearing a glove nullifies the effect. Any advice on how to progress,
grounded aluminium around the box? local ghosting effect ? if so why
only 2 stations affected out of the 10 or more on that one multiplexed
UHF channel

If there's that much pickup on the box or downlead, there's something
wrong. Short in the co-ax or connector?

--
*I never drink anything stronger than gin before breakfast *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Looking a bit deeper the main problem stations are on UHF Channel 33, Mux D
the highest frequency of the local (Rowridge) group.
Unless anyone knows how to push the problem into the totally junk and so
deleted shopping channels, looks like a new yagi and downlead.
A near neighbour has no problem with any freeview channel with a relatively
short Yaggi in his loft space.
The immediate neighbour, so yaggi only a couple of feet away and parallel,
uses a line powered headend amp which perhaps could be
radiating/interfering/coupling. Perhaps a different mounting position should
be considered also.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <gaid3k$hdo$1@inews.gazeta.pl>,
N Cook <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote:

Looking a bit deeper the main problem stations are on UHF Channel 33,
Mux D the highest frequency of the local (Rowridge) group. Unless anyone
knows how to push the problem into the totally junk and so deleted
shopping channels, looks like a new yagi and downlead.

If you can ascertain the age of the aerial in certain areas, as has been
said, it may not be suitable for all the FreeView muxes - in the same way
as some weren't suitable for Ch5. It all depends on the frequencies used
locally. In the London area the muxes are within the existing grouping -
you'd need to look it up for Rowridge. There are probably some yagis
still in use from the early BBC2 days which were peaked for just the one
frequency.

A near neighbour has no problem with any freeview channel with a
relatively short Yaggi in his loft space.

Could be a wideband type.

The immediate neighbour, so yaggi only a couple of
feet away and parallel, uses a line powered headend amp which perhaps
could be radiating/interfering/coupling. Perhaps a different mounting
position should be considered also.

A few feet can make a difference. But while you're up there you might as
well change it. If you're in a reasonable field strength area go for a log
beam. Nice smooth response and good DP. And use a decent satellite cable
rather than plain UHF. I like these people for such things - and their
strap chimney mounting is a delight to use.

https://www.blake-uk.com/page/aerial_dml

--
*Gravity is a myth, the earth sucks *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Chris Oates]

<mark@ems-fife.co.uk> wrote in message
news:a3597d38-662d-4b32-92ba-2e258f27d41f@y21g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

I have a Mitsubishi C5470NS monitor in a cnc machine.The flyback has
packed in and we`re having trouble sourcing one.The number appears to
be:-
MS11 or MSH 1 RAD 193 R634 P51 SA1
Is there a way of knowing what to substitute without schematics?

have a look here
http://www.hrdiemen.es/products/index.php?command=viewSection&id=4&language=eng-GB