Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <HJiik.1560$%b7.1345@edtnps82>,
jordo <notmy@email.address> wrote:

I've checked all of my inputs while the HDMI is plugged in, but it
doesn't show up anywhere. I was reading on some forums that the HDMI
can be disabled by various things and that it can be re-enabled by doing
a "system" check in the service menu (and it gives the steps to do
that). However, I cannot find the steps to get INTO the service menu!

Wonder if it's tied in to a component input which could be either
component or RGB? My sat receiver is like that. Select RGB and you loose
the upscaling, etc.

--
*It is wrong to ever split an infinitive *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Arny Krueger]

"EADGBE" <hwbosshoss@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:accb0220-1d82-4842-9b17-683be7509c96@i20g2000prf.googlegroups.com

....Does anyone know where I can download the schematic
for an Audio Alchemy CD player?

The model is a Digital Drive System II (also known as a
DDSII).

Why bother fixing it?

 

[Arfa Daily]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:GNadneoeM7rHuBTVnZ2dnUVZ_rHinZ2d@comcast.com...

Sometimes, they can seem like they are resisting unreasonably,
but once you find the right places to 'probe', it sometimes amazes
you how readily they then come apart, and you can't believe that
it has taken you so long.

Which is exactly the point. This is a large remote, and it's hard to even
begin to guess where the "ears" are.

I just bought some AR interconnects, which come in a large snap-shut
"egg".
I had little trouble getting it open. So why...?

You can usually insinuate the edge of the knife blade into the crack between
the case halves, and then rotate in the plane of the blade, either up, or
down. This will normally result in the case halves twisting apart at that
point, and will tell you which half is clipped over the other. You can also
normally see at this point, where the case halves are resisting twisting
apart, and that will be where your first clip point is located. You can
either slide the knife blade down to that point, and then knowing which way
the case is clipped together, twist again in that direction, or come out
with the knife and then move down to the clip point, and reinsert. Either
way, it's not that hard, and as I said, probably more a matter of technique
and experience, than special tools, or the manufacturers trying to stop you
getting in there.

Arfa

 

[GregS]

In article <zOmik.6563$t32.4036@bignews3.bellsouth.net>, jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

lbbss wrote:
I have a good watch but it has developed a leak, Is there any house
hold type of ingredient that I could use to help the gasket seal
better. thanks.

Having read the answers (as of 10:30am CDT), I'm still wondering as
well. Nobody covered anything other than digital watches, which are
fairly easy to seal. I have several analog units which
leak--presumably--around the stem. I wonder if there is 'any' hope for
these, as several were pretty expensive when new. I suppose a jeweler
would have some sort of solution; but I paid less for any of these than
the trip to the jeweler would cost.

I was hoping for a DIY solution.....

For simple leaks I use silicone grease. Silicone high vacuum greese is
real thick.

greg

 

[William Sommerwerck]

This type of remote is meant to be thrown away when it
fails anyway, like just about everything else these days.

We're not talking about universal remotes.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Ken G." <goodguyy@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:23064-488A6885-349@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net...

I dont think its the rubber breaking down . I have seen many remotes dry
as a dry bone . Many older remotes that were never used dont do this .

Here at my house the only remote that did that was the one i used to
hold i my hand alot . After i cleaned it and stopped holding it the goo
stopped .
I believe its somehow oils from the hands that get drawn in somehow .

I also found a good way to fix those remotes where the rubber pads
inside loose their conductivity .
Clean it real good . Smear a thin coat of auto emblem adhesive on the
pad .

Take a motor brush and scrape it with a knife to make powder on
something then push and smear the glue coated pad into the dust .
This might be old news ?? but it works pretty good .

You can also keep the keymats from scrap phones / calculators / remotes, and
then, when needed, razor blade a black conductive lozenge off the rubber
substrate, then superglue it to the substrate on the keymat you're
repairing, after first razor blading off the worn out lozenge.

Arfa

 

[Jim Yanik]

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:KDnik.13037$Gb2.7858@newsfe29.ams2:

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:GNadneoeM7rHuBTVnZ2dnUVZ_rHinZ2d@comcast.com...
Sometimes, they can seem like they are resisting unreasonably,
but once you find the right places to 'probe', it sometimes amazes
you how readily they then come apart, and you can't believe that
it has taken you so long.

Which is exactly the point. This is a large remote, and it's hard to
even begin to guess where the "ears" are.

I just bought some AR interconnects, which come in a large snap-shut
"egg".
I had little trouble getting it open. So why...?



You can usually insinuate the edge of the knife blade into the crack
between the case halves, and then rotate in the plane of the blade,
either up, or down. This will normally result in the case halves
twisting apart at that point, and will tell you which half is clipped
over the other. You can also normally see at this point, where the
case halves are resisting twisting apart, and that will be where your
first clip point is located. You can either slide the knife blade down
to that point, and then knowing which way the case is clipped
together, twist again in that direction, or come out with the knife
and then move down to the clip point, and reinsert. Either way, it's
not that hard, and as I said, probably more a matter of technique and
experience, than special tools, or the manufacturers trying to stop
you getting in there.

Arfa

maybe some of that steel banding used for going around shipping crates
would work.I use pieces of it for cal sticker scrapers.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[Jim Yanik]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in
news:EYGdnXKRjLiE9BfVnZ2dnUVZ_oHinZ2d@comcast.com:

This type of remote is meant to be thrown away when it
fails anyway, like just about everything else these days.

We're not talking about universal remotes.

yes,factory remotes often have instrument-specific functions that a
universal remote will not activate;I have a Pioneer PD-M70 CD player where
the remote died,and a universal remote does -some- things,but not many
commonly used functions.

and a universal remote will not operate my new Magnavox OTA DTV converter.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[JANA]

For whatever you are feeding to the HDMI port on your projection TV set,
make sure that its resolution setting is within the range of the set. If it
is out of range, the set will act as if there was no response.

I have also seen a failed HDMI port on some equipment react in a similar way
that you are describing. But, first investigate properly before coming to
any conclusions.

--

JANA
_____


"jordo" <notmy@email.address> wrote in message
news:7I8ik.1480$nu6.909@edtnps83...
I have a JVC rear projection tv that I bought second hand a little over a
year ago. It works fine except for the HDMI input. When I plug it into my
cable box and switch to the digital input, it can't detect anything (and
says it's gonna turn off in 9 minutes if nothing is connected before then
). However, if I plug in my computer via a dvi/hdmi cable, the tv still
doesn't detect a connection, but the computer recognizes the tv for the
model number that it is. There is no setting in the tv that can affect the
input, from what I can find (and I went over all the menus multiple times).

Any ideas on what might be causing this? If it's an electrical problem, is
it worth my time to get an electronic technician to fix it?

Jordan

 

[JANA]

When opening the watch case, jeweller is supposed to change the gasket.
Then he does a pressure test to make sure that the watch is water proof.
Sometimes the pushers and crown (buttons and winder) gaskets have to also be
changed.

--

JANA
_____


"lbbss" <labicff@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:50df3e96-a93e-4553-b325-802af0de1662@z26g2000pre.googlegroups.com...
I have a good watch but it has developed a leak, Is there any house
hold type of ingredient that I could use to help the gasket seal
better. thanks.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"EADGBE" <hwbosshoss@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:15bc6d83-8a6b-494b-95e8-93357ffd0ef2@e53g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 25, 12:05 pm, "Arny Krueger" <ar...@hotpop.com> wrote:

Why bother fixing it?

I got it for free; it seems like a (fairly) nice CD player; just
curious about the sound.

I really don't know if I actually need the schematic. I'm pretty sure
it's a bad op-amp. The CD spindle motor won't activate, even though
the motor tests fine and so do the transistors responsible for
supplying the motor voltage.

It's just something to tinker with on a rainy afternoon, that's
all......


The fault you describe really is a bit "my car won't start even though
there's fuel in the tank. The engine cranks so the battery is fine. I
suspect it might be a bad radiator ... "

Sorry to put it that way, but very few problems with discs failing to spin
up, are ever anything to do with the motor's drive electronics, *unless* the
motor was faulty in the first place, in which case, occasionally, the motor
driver IC, where one is used, will be damaged. Where the drive is from a
four transistor bridge, it's very rare for them to have failed, bad motor or
not. The disc failing to spin up, when it's definitely *not* a motor
problem, is almost invariably because the system control is not releasing
the motor servo into a 'run' condition.

First checks should be :- If you move the laser down its track manually,
then open and close the drawer, does it then home ? Does the laser burn ?
Does it attempt focus ? With a disc in, does it achieve focus ? Does it
attempt to rotate the disc at all ? Are any pots in it way off centre (if
you don't know its pedigree, the phantom pot-twiddler may have been in there
before you ... ) d;~}

Collect a bit more info, then let us know, and we'll see if we can suggest
some more things you can look for.

Arfa

 

[Barry & Nikki]

OOPs just noticed I hit the 1 instead of 2 (20-25).



"Barry & Nikki" <bearmore@ANTISPAMwhidbey.com> wrote in message
news:vKWdnZVg1sPapRzVnZ2dnUVZ_iydnZ2d@whidbeytel.com...

If more than 30 years old I'd try a newer model; say that is only 10-25
years old. They can usually be controlled with a little less cash and they
are a little easier to clean up and present. Not to mention how well they
make you feel when you get them to work once the lights are out.



"Dillo" <test@celbridgegolfsociety.com> wrote in message
news:dac0d993-3ea5-4c95-9a43-2815e76057b4@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
I have an ir controlled wife. It doesnt work

 

[Arfa Daily]

"EADGBE" <hwbosshoss@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:a4e6628d-28fd-423e-9f5f-29ef5672c56f@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

I have looked at the CD repair FAQ (very informative!), and I have
done the following:

1. I have cleaned the lens with isopropyl alcohol.

2. I have discovered that the laser pickup WILL NOT re-center itself
under any condition if I manually move it away from the motor spindle.

3. As far as I can tell by simple observation, the laser pickup DOES
NOT light up under any condition. (I looked at the lens from an
oblique angle about 6 inches away from it in a darkened room.)

4. I have verified that the lens drive motor AND the CD spindle motor
do work OK. (I unplugged each motor's wiring harness and applied a
small DC voltage.)

5. I have cleaned the contacts on the little leaf switch that opens
and closes whenever the CD drawer opens and closes and verified that
the switch is opening and closing normally.

6. I have verified that all wiring harness connectors are clean and
well-seated.

Somehow, this player simply will not turn the CD playing circuits on
when the drawer closes. I think the logic IC is fried. Oh well, I
needed a few electronic parts, so now I have a whole box full!

Thanks to everyone for your help....

OK. Well your biggest clue there is that the laser never homes under any
circumstances. This means, probably 75% of the time at least, that the
problem is power supply related. I don't know if on that model, any psu
voltages are silk screened on the board by links, test points, or
connectors. If they are, look for the 5v that feeds the system control
logic, and the 8v (typically) that feeds the motor circuits. It's usually
called something like "+8M" or "M8v" or "Mot8v". If you can't find any
markings, look for 3 terminal monolithic regulator ICs - like 7805 and 7808
and 7909 and so on. On all types, positive and negative, "out" is the far
right pin with the heatsink away from you. On 78 positive types, "in" is the
left-most pin. On 79 negative types, it's the centre pin. Check for correct
output voltage, and that the voltage is 'clean'. Failure of the little
decoupling electros by the sides of them, can cause them to oscillate, which
wreaks havoc in the following circuitry.

If any have low output voltage, check them to see how hot they are getting.
If they are cold, and the input voltage is at least 15% above the expected
output voltage, suspect the regulator itself. With the 5v logic supply, it
is *particularly important* that it lies between 4.8 and 5.2v, and
preferably as close to 5v exactly, as possible. Also that it is very clean
(check with a 'scope).

If it doesn't have 78 / 79 series regulator chips, look for regulator
transistors, which may be either flatpak types, or those taller than normal
D-line types (like a big TO92 package). Look particularly, for any where the
pcb underneath looks scorched or discoloured.

As another bit of a test before you start digging in to component level, you
can try having a look at the voltages on either side of the 'tray closed'
switch, and just make sure that they do change when the tray *is* fully
closed. Also, you can push the laser all the way back home by hand, and just
see if the laser does then burn, and the focus seek operation starts. Should
be enough to get you going.

Arfa

 

[N Cook]

Ancient_Hacker <grg2@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:90f5d0b2-5857-47bb-a5ab-e37a9d3b9787@25g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...

Hi, I'm trying to get data from a GOODWILL PPT-3615 power supply.

I can send it commands okay, and it responds, but always with missing
or duplicate characters.

For instance if I ask for its identification info with *IDN? I get:

GOOODWILL PPT33615
GODWIILPPTT36615

and so on.

The GPIB cable is only one foot long.

The card works fine with a HP 3478 meter.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Baud rate slipped due to dodgey DIP switch ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[GregS]

In article <Tfkjk.31606$co7.13902@nlpi066.nbdc.sbc.com>, "richg99" <rich99sue@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

I have need of a portable, low-temperature glue gun for model airplane
repair in the field. Any ideas about how I would go about converting a
standard $5.00 or so ( cheap) glue gun to use with my 12 volt auto battery.
I know I can put a converter on, but , for a variety of reasons, I'd rather
not do that. thanks, Rich

They do sell battery glue guns.

greg

 

[DaveM]

"richg99" <rich99sue@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:Tfkjk.31606$co7.13902@nlpi066.nbdc.sbc.com...

I have need of a portable, low-temperature glue gun for model airplane repair
in the field. Any ideas about how I would go about converting a standard $5.00
or so ( cheap) glue gun to use with my 12 volt auto battery. I know I can put a
converter on, but , for a variety of reasons, I'd rather not do that. thanks,
Rich

You would have to remove the 110V heating element and replace it with a 12V
heating element. Don't know where you'd get such an animal, but I suppose you
could fashion one from the heating element from a 12V appliance such as a
soldering iron, cooking appliances for camping, etc. You might be able to use
the resistance wire from a wire-wound power resistor.
I've never had one of these glue guns apart, so I can't say how easy or hard it
would be to do.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[Fred McKenzie]

In article <swnjk.5899$np7.1818@flpi149.ffdc.sbc.com>,
"richg99" <rich99sue@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

Probably just a dumb question..but..if the 110 v unit has a coil of
resistance heating wire..and the aforementioned 12 v unit has a coil of
resistance wire...can I calculate how much of the 110 v wire I would need to
make it heat on 12 v d.c.? i.e. can I cut it shorter..or ....add .....more
of the same wire??

Rich-

If you only cut the wire shorter, you might get the same power on 12
volts. But with ten times the current you would burn out the wire.

Just for discussion, suppose you cut the resistance wire into 10 equal
pieces, reconnected them in parallel and applied 12 volts. The
resulting combination would draw ten times the current at one tenth the
voltage, which equals the original power. In theory it would work, but
in practice, you would need to wind the parallel wires into the original
space without any of the coils touching.

I think your best bet would be to look in the hobby shops for a battery
powered glue gun. If you can't find one, a 50 or 100 watt DC-to-AC
inverter would be fairly small, and they are readily available. The
smaller ones may be built with an integral lighter plug, so an
automotive lighter socket would be needed to use them.

Fred

 

[Jim Yanik]

"richg99" <rich99sue@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
news:swnjk.5899$np7.1818@flpi149.ffdc.sbc.com:

Probably just a dumb question..but..if the 110 v unit has a coil of
resistance heating wire..and the aforementioned 12 v unit has a coil
of resistance wire...can I calculate how much of the 110 v wire I
would need to make it heat on 12 v d.c.? i.e. can I cut it
shorter..or ....add .....more of the same wire??

There must be a number and gauge in there someplace?? ...

or...can I put a resistor into the 12 v circuit to make it "look like"
the 110 v voltage coming in.. or is that going the wrong way around?

thanks sorry for the dumb questions...but you guys know this stuff..I
don't. Rich

p.s. the 110v gun that I have here is a 40 watt gun...with two
choices..low temp ( which is what I need and use ) and high temp. The
glue they sell will melt at either temperature..

why not just buy the RIGHT TOOL for the job,a 12v glue gun?
Or buy an inverter,and then you will have it for other tools,other
purposes.

(chances are,the 110v heating element is not accessible to be modified.
Besides,if you just take off some of the wire,you lose heating power.A 12V
heating element of the same heating power will draw a much higher
current,and use a heavier gauge wire.)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[Stacey Chuffo]

"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:22i73q.q08.19.1@news.alt.net...

On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 13:01:01 -0700, Stacey Chuffo wrote:


"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:22hkr2.530.17.1@news.alt.net...
On Sun, 27 Jul 2008 20:42:20 -0700, Ashleigh Cope wrote:

A great idea just popped in my brain 2:

y don't u stop being such a big fat meanie that nobody likes so
somebody can like u u big fat meanie

Why are you replying to your Curtis Brown sock? Have you lost your mind
or just bored because nobody else replies except to slap you around?

BORING

You've got a real problem needing all these socks to talk to each other.
Of course I knew you were fucking nuts when you bragged about your
gigantic 32" tv, your massive pool stick, a 10 dollar bottle of beer and
your copy of Windows Vista.

What the fuck are you smoking? Show me where I bragged about my "gigantic
32" TV", or where I own a pool stick. I wouldn't spend 10 dollars on a
bottle of beer and I haven't bragged about Windows Vista, as a matter of
fact, I think it sucks.

 

[Stacey Chuffo]

"bob urz" <sound@inetnebr.com> wrote in message
news:1217184472_13730@isp.n...

Any good tips for testing LCD inverters and the CCFL tubes
they hook to?

One way to test an inverter is to hook it up to Meat Plow (Matthew Edward
Hennig) nutsack and apply the power. If it works then listen to him scream
like a little girl (The kind of female that would make Richard Bullis shoot
a load).