Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

When I was in Bartell's drug store (a Seattle chain) two weeks ago, they had
a rechargeable glue gun on sale for $9 or so. This was one of those
"Advertised on TV" products.

Perhaps a store in your area has a similar product.
 
Pennywise@DerryMaine.Gov, ye horn-mad quicksand of deceit, away! Thou
art poison to my blood, ye wanted to talkee-talkee about:

E-mail: Pennywise@DerryMaine.Gov. About: This community is for all of
the wonderful money slaves, submissives, and folks who wish to lavish
Me in gifts.
X-Trace: individual.net ...

Spam complaint #2839783 sent to abuse@individual.net

--

Whee
http://fundivision.net/wp-content/uploads/2008/06/jump__12.jpg
--
Hammer of Thor: February 2007. Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook,
Line & Sinker: September 2005, April 2006, January 2007.
Official Member: Cabal Obsidian Order COOSN-124-07-06660
Official Overseer of Kooks & Trolls in 24hoursupport.helpdesk
 
In article <Tfkjk.31606$co7.13902@nlpi066.nbdc.sbc.com>,
richg99 <rich99sue@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
I have need of a portable, low-temperature glue gun for model airplane
repair in the field. Any ideas about how I would go about converting a
standard $5.00 or so ( cheap) glue gun to use with my 12 volt auto
battery. I know I can put a converter on, but , for a variety of
reasons, I'd rather not do that. thanks, Rich
Very few of these things can be stripped to the point where you could
replace the heater element, as the low price means they're disposable. And
even if you could where would you get the correct part? I suppose you
could make the correct element - but buying the materials may prove
difficult and costly.
I've seen rechargeable ones on sale. They would prove a better basis to
run off 12 volts via a regulator.

--
*Constipated People Don't Give A Crap*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
In article <Tfkjk.31606$co7.13902@nlpi066.nbdc.sbc.com>, "richg99" <rich99sue@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
I have need of a portable, low-temperature glue gun for model airplane
repair in the field. Any ideas about how I would go about converting a
standard $5.00 or so ( cheap) glue gun to use with my 12 volt auto battery.
I know I can put a converter on, but , for a variety of reasons, I'd rather
not do that. thanks, Rich
As if this isn't cheap enough.....

http://www.fitsmybudget.com/product.php?productid=16985

I could recommend a more expensive butane shrink wrap tool,
but you could also pull out a BIC and flick the stick.

greg
 
zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote in
news:g6nnmr$sbd$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu:

In article <Tfkjk.31606$co7.13902@nlpi066.nbdc.sbc.com>, "richg99"
rich99sue@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
I have need of a portable, low-temperature glue gun for model airplane
repair in the field. Any ideas about how I would go about converting a
standard $5.00 or so ( cheap) glue gun to use with my 12 volt auto
battery. I know I can put a converter on, but , for a variety of
reasons, I'd rather not do that. thanks, Rich


As if this isn't cheap enough.....

http://www.fitsmybudget.com/product.php?productid=16985

I could recommend a more expensive butane shrink wrap tool,
but you could also pull out a BIC and flick the stick.

greg
I think I'd rather use cyanoacrylate instead of hot glue for in-field model
repairs.

of course,if you're using a 12VDC-110VAC converter,then you can also use
your Dremel,charge NiCd packs,etc.
it would also be available for emergency use elsewhere.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 
sam@ece.drexel.edu writes:


So UPenn and Drexel have pulled the plug on their USENET news
servers. I'm looking for recommendations on newsgroup access,
preferably via GNUS, which many consider antiquated, as far as I can
tell, it is 10 times faster to read and post than using the fancy GUI
"modern" alternatives.

Get a Panix account <http://www.panix.com/shell.html>

--
A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
 
On Tue, 1 Jul 2008 07:45:07 -0700 (PDT), sam@ece.drexel.edu wrote:
OK, a bit off topic but may apply to others at universities as they
upgrade their computer systems.
?? "upgrade" ?? More like dumb-down....

So UPenn and Drexel have pulled the plug on their USENET news
servers. I'm looking for recommendations on newsgroup access,
http://individual.net/overview.php

Which I've been with for nearly 6 years now -- using text-based slrn.
So I'd guess your GNUS ought to Fit Right In.

Jonesy
 
"Stacey Chuffo" <phsd-everyone@promisesandiego.com> wrote in message
news:g6jd18$oi5$1@aioe.org...
"The costs of rent, moving, setting up utilities... it's all so
overwhelming! Every dollar will help so much!"

http://www.amazon.com/paypage/P36FNQJETWJA8E
I'll help you move Nicole, with my motherfucking foot you motherfucking
beaotch
 
"Brian Sandle" <bsandle@ablate_spam.snap.net.nz> wrote in message
news:1217473170.420991@kyle.snap.net.nz...
An old Hitachi electric drill as part of a set with many attachments had a
wrongly wired plug.

This is in New Zealand where the phase is the slanting pin socket on the
left. The sealed Hitachi plug attached to this faulty drill had the red
wire connected to the right hand pin as it is pushed in.

(Fault was less than tight brush scews)
As far as I've always understood it, 'polarity' on two-wire double insulated
equipment, is more a matter of convention than safety, from a punter point
of view. Not quite the same for the service engineer who has to get inside
the equipment, where he will quite reasonably expect any power line fuses,
or single pole switches, to be in the live (phase) wire, rather than the
neutral.

There may be other issues - all my electrical theory was learnt at college a
long time ago, and by experience over the years - but I don't think that
there is a lot of (electrically practical) difference between a drill motor,
a light bulb, and a piece of kit with a transformer based power supply.

Inexcusable really of the manufacturer to wire it wrongly, but I have seen
many times, the two pin non-polarised europlug (thinking about it, there you
go - two pin, non-polarised) fitted to Aiwa hifis, inserted theoretically
backwards into the UK 13A permanent adaptor head, that they fit before
shipping the item out to the UK, so clearly, they don't think it's an issue.

Arfa
 
"Kendra Weissbein" <kweissbein@lvhcc.com> wrote in message
news:g6lbu8$qdt$1@aioe.org...
"Stacey Chuffo" <phsd-everyone@promisesandiego.com> wrote in message
news:g6jd18$oi5$1@aioe.org...
"The costs of rent, moving, setting up utilities... it's all so
overwhelming! Every dollar will help so much!"

http://www.amazon.com/paypage/P36FNQJETWJA8E

I thought I would double her balance but Amazon said that they payment
amount was too low.

What's 0.00 times 2 again?
What about all her G's from Stripperweb? None of them could come through for
her and send a few bucks her way?
What a bunch of fucking fucked up bitchez.
 
In article <1217473170.420991@kyle.snap.net.nz>,
Brian Sandle <bsandle@ablate_spam.snap.net.nz> wrote:
An old Hitachi electric drill as part of a set with many attachments had
a wrongly wired plug.

This is in New Zealand where the phase is the slanting pin socket on the
left. The sealed Hitachi plug attached to this faulty drill had the red
wire connected to the right hand pin as it is pushed in.

(Fault was less than tight brush scews)
Reversing line and neutral won't stop a drill working.

--
*Sherlock Holmes never said "Elementary, my dear Watson" *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4fc776063ddave@davenoise.co.uk...
In article <1217473170.420991@kyle.snap.net.nz>,
Brian Sandle <bsandle@ablate_spam.snap.net.nz> wrote:
An old Hitachi electric drill as part of a set with many attachments had
a wrongly wired plug.

This is in New Zealand where the phase is the slanting pin socket on the
left. The sealed Hitachi plug attached to this faulty drill had the red
wire connected to the right hand pin as it is pushed in.

(Fault was less than tight brush scews)

Reversing line and neutral won't stop a drill working.

--
*Sherlock Holmes never said "Elementary, my dear Watson" *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Reversing line and neutral also won't stop Nicole Bischoff from screaming
when you take the wires out of the drill and hook them up to her sloppy
cunt.
 
Nelson <nelson@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:0001HW.C4B79880000916A9F0182648@free.teranews.com...
Braun Oral B 3D Pulsating Toothbrush, Model 4729

OK, so I know it would be cheaper to just buy a new one but I like the
challenge... and I just bought a pack of 7 replacement brushes... grrr!
This model charges a rechargeable battery inductively and is sealed up
tighter than a ... (supply your own metaphor).

Anyone know how to disassemble one of these? I'm assuming the battery
has reached the end of it's charging life cycle, but I have to open it
up to find out. And if it has, I'll probably have to jury rig in a
replacement since I can't find anyone selling replacement parts on the
web. My guess is that Braun doesn't make them available.

Google is pretty much worthless on this since it pushes all the
advertising sites to the top.

--
Nelson

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

You may find the main barrel comes apart at a mould line somewhere along the
barrel. Grip and twist at any mouild line.

I used to repair an expensive contra-rotating bristle one, not "Oral", so
some repair tips on my file

http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/repair4.htm

Note the tip about not charging these things with the business end
uppermost, charge inverted, so any human goo does not migrate into the works

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:489234DB.F48E5CF5@hotmail.com...
Arfa Daily wrote:

"Brian Sandle" <bsandle@ablate_spam.snap.net.nz> wrote

An old Hitachi electric drill as part of a set with many attachments
had a
wrongly wired plug.

This is in New Zealand where the phase is the slanting pin socket on
the
left. The sealed Hitachi plug attached to this faulty drill had the red
wire connected to the right hand pin as it is pushed in.

(Fault was less than tight brush scews)


As far as I've always understood it, 'polarity' on two-wire double
insulated
equipment, is more a matter of convention than safety, from a punter
point
of view. Not quite the same for the service engineer who has to get
inside
the equipment, where he will quite reasonably expect any power line
fuses,
or single pole switches, to be in the live (phase) wire, rather than the
neutral.

There may be other issues - all my electrical theory was learnt at
college a
long time ago, and by experience over the years - but I don't think that
there is a lot of (electrically practical) difference between a drill
motor,
a light bulb, and a piece of kit with a transformer based power supply.

Inexcusable really of the manufacturer to wire it wrongly, but I have
seen
many times, the two pin non-polarised europlug (thinking about it, there
you
go - two pin, non-polarised) fitted to Aiwa hifis, inserted theoretically
backwards into the UK 13A permanent adaptor head, that they fit before
shipping the item out to the UK, so clearly, they don't think it's an
issue.

For Class II (double insulated) it should not be.

Graham
As I said I believed to be the case, also. But with the reservations
regarding engineer safety, when the covers are off ( although it should be
on a bench isolation transformer for open-case work, of course ... )

Arfa
 
"Paul" <paul.homchick@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:21d63178-dc1c-42a1-9752-8e9948db5a37@w39g2000prb.googlegroups.com...
I have a Philips CD960 CD player which has been in storage for a while
(okay, eight years). The rubber belts in the transport have hardened
and stretched and need to be replaced. Does anyone know of a source
for these parts? Philips service here in the U.S. doesn't seem to
even know that such a piece of equipment ever existed. Any help
appreciated!
Throw it in the trash. It probably doesn't even play MP3s.
 
"Nelson" <nelson@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:0001HW.C4B79880000916A9F0182648@free.teranews.com...
Braun Oral B 3D Pulsating Toothbrush, Model 4729

OK, so I know it would be cheaper to just buy a new one but I like the
challenge... and I just bought a pack of 7 replacement brushes... grrr!
This model charges a rechargeable battery inductively and is sealed up
tighter than a ... (supply your own metaphor).

Anyone know how to disassemble one of these? I'm assuming the battery
has reached the end of it's charging life cycle, but I have to open it
up to find out. And if it has, I'll probably have to jury rig in a
replacement since I can't find anyone selling replacement parts on the
web. My guess is that Braun doesn't make them available.

Google is pretty much worthless on this since it pushes all the
advertising sites to the top.

--
Nelson

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
I recently took a similar unit apart, the charger post engages in the base
of the toothbrush and can be used to twist the bottom of the unit off and
the guts then slide out. Mine had an O ring seal so it would, theoretically,
be possible to reassemble it; the top bush on mine was so worn that it had
leaked and it wasn't worth the effort to clean up as it needed a new NiCd
anyway. Other similar units have a cross slot moulded into the base and a
matching, for want of a better word, screwdriver blade moulded on the
underside of the charging base; the dismantling procedure is similar.
Martin
--
martin<dot here>whybrow<at here>ntlworld<dot here>com
 
I had a similar 5 year old Sonic Care brush that failed. I tried to open
it, but had to resort to cutting open the case with my Dremel tool and
cutting blade. It was not repairable and never intended to be opened back
up after it left the factory. Good luck to you.

Bob

"Nelson" <nelson@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:0001HW.C4B79880000916A9F0182648@free.teranews.com...
Braun Oral B 3D Pulsating Toothbrush, Model 4729

OK, so I know it would be cheaper to just buy a new one but I like the
challenge... and I just bought a pack of 7 replacement brushes... grrr!
This model charges a rechargeable battery inductively and is sealed up
tighter than a ... (supply your own metaphor).

Anyone know how to disassemble one of these? I'm assuming the battery
has reached the end of it's charging life cycle, but I have to open it
up to find out. And if it has, I'll probably have to jury rig in a
replacement since I can't find anyone selling replacement parts on the
web. My guess is that Braun doesn't make them available.

Google is pretty much worthless on this since it pushes all the
advertising sites to the top.

--
Nelson

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
 
Fixed What?

"sashmo" <sashawaring@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:111ec896-3646-49e0-a167-0a907daf0e6e@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
So, you scroll through the CC options until you get to CC Off, as you
have been doing with the button on your remote. Instead of just
letting it disappear on its own, you have to hit the "Status/Exit"
button when you arrive at the CC Off option, to confirm that you want
to turn it off for good. Once you do this, the CC's should not come
back once you turn off and turn on your TV. Hope it works!
 
Nelson <nelson@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:0001HW.C4B79880000916A9F0182648@free.teranews.com...
Braun Oral B 3D Pulsating Toothbrush, Model 4729

OK, so I know it would be cheaper to just buy a new one but I like the
challenge... and I just bought a pack of 7 replacement brushes... grrr!
This model charges a rechargeable battery inductively and is sealed up
tighter than a ... (supply your own metaphor).

Anyone know how to disassemble one of these? I'm assuming the battery
has reached the end of it's charging life cycle, but I have to open it
up to find out. And if it has, I'll probably have to jury rig in a
replacement since I can't find anyone selling replacement parts on the
web. My guess is that Braun doesn't make them available.

Google is pretty much worthless on this since it pushes all the
advertising sites to the top.

--
Nelson

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
I looked at an Oral B (number 366 on the moulding), not opened, and the
closure line is at the charger coil.
I would try warming the end with hot air before trying to insert a large
blade across the 2 slots or a dart point in the join.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
Rodney Pont <aspamscop@infohitsystems.ltd.uk> wrote in message
news:atcfzvasbuvgflfgrzfygqhx.k4x9px0.pminews@ouse...
On Fri, 1 Aug 2008 07:39:03 +0100, N Cook wrote:

I looked at an Oral B (number 366 on the moulding), not opened, and the
closure line is at the charger coil.
I would try warming the end with hot air before trying to insert a large
blade across the 2 slots or a dart point in the join.

Mine came with instructions on how to remove the battery to dispose of
it at the end of it's life and you do indeed twist the slot by 90
degrees. Unfortunately that breaks the wires to the pickup coil (I
think) since the instructions say that the brush will no longer work
and the battery cannot be replaced.

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail ngpsm4 (at) infohitsystems (dot) ltd (dot) uk
Useful to know that.
Assuming the wire would break where it goes into the surrounding plastic .
It should be possible to excavate with Dremmel and ball-mill around the
tails and resolder with longer wire, only mA anyway.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 

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