Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

"New Jersey" <t.seput@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:vomgk.87$oU.8@trnddc07...
I cannot say for sure but there is station that they must
change direction of antennas from night to day or vice-versa
because of signal propagation which interfere with other networks
This is plausible (in principle), but at the frequencies at which digital TV
operates, there isn't much difference between day and night propagation.
 
I have only been receiving digital tv for a few days. It has been
very hot and humid here, could that be causing the problem?
Water infiltration into a coax cable can cause signal loss. I suppose
it's possible you've gotten rainwater into the coax (due to inadequate
sealing of the F connector on the end) and that high temperatures
change how the moisture affects signal attenuation.

As for
analog reception, it works well day and night.
Hmmm. That would see to rule out simple temperature change or signal
strength, then.

I use the same Channel
Master roof top UHF/VHF antenna and coax cable for analog and digital.
FWIW the stations I am trying to receive are in Indianapolis and I am
in Bloomington IN.
ATSC digital signals are relatively sensitive to multipath (the same
phenomenon which generates "ghost" images on analog TV). Possibly
there's more multipath being generated in your area during the day, as
a result of (for example):

- More airplanes flying through the "field of view" between you and
the transmitter

- More wind, causing tree branches and leaves to move around nearby

- More surface vehicles (trucks, ships) travelling nearby

The idea that there might also be a locally-generated source of
interference which is more active during the day is also a good one.
Are you seeing "sparkles" on the weaker analog channels (from impulse
noise), or "herringbone", or something like that?

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
 
In article <488218E7.5030802@prodigy.net>, CJT <abujlehc@prodigy.net> wrote:

The other day I turned on the TV, it worked fine for a few minutes and
then suddenly goes dead. This pattern can be repeated after a short rest
of the TV: it goes on, picture looks fine and sound is OK and then suddenly
dies -- goes totally silent and black -- after a few minutes running.

One can't be certain, but I'll hazard a guess --

Assuming it's a color set, it'll have a protective circuit that shuts it
down (in order to avoid X-ray emissions) if the picture tube begins to
draw too much current. Either that circuit is failing/has drifted out
of tolerance, or something else causes the current draw to enter the
"danger" zone once the set warms up.
There might also be a cracked solder joint on the board, which is
opening and closing as a result of thermal cycling when the set warms
up. A bad joint in the right place could shut down portions of the
set's power supply.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
 
Hi,
apart form the other suggestions - don't forget to test the electrolytic
caps in the power supply. A dry electro could be the cause too.

Greg

"Stan" <iivs35@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:2ea0d$4881828b$c499203$12159@DIALUPUSA.NET...
I've enjoyed for 8 years a nice, jumbo sized, handsome real wood box,
cubic shaped, on-a-lazy-susan-base, GE TV, model 25PP5859K (built in Nov.
1984). I bought it used in 2000. I don't have or want cable TV-- I only
watch free, broadcast type TV shows. [I've had this TV connected for maybe
the past 1.5 months to a cheap Magnavox TV converter box.]

The other day I turned on the TV, it worked fine for a few minutes and
then suddenly goes dead. This pattern can be repeated after a short rest
of the TV: it goes on, picture looks fine and sound is OK and then
suddenly
dies -- goes totally silent and black -- after a few minutes running.

What could be wrong with it? Does this sound like it's the main picture
tube which is shot or something else? [This TV must have been a
costly, state-of-the-art one when it came out in 1984, so I guess the best
electronics for its time were used in its construction.]

Tell me what you think or suspect.


Thanks

[To contact me, drop one 'i'.]
 
In these monitors, it is common that the backplane lamps and the backplane
power supply wears out. You can call or email the BenQ distributor for your
area to see if they would sell the parts, or supply service for your
monitor. In some of these screens depending on how they are designed, the
backplane lamps are not replaceable.

In most cases we found these monitors more feasible to replace than to
service.

--

JANA
_____


"Powermac" <teozenios@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ff95ad2f-388d-41c0-b93a-afca07b9664d@e53g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
Hello,

I have a BENQ FP731 monitor that does not work correctly and was
wondering if it is worth fixing.

When you turn it on the power light comes on, you see the momentary
BENQ logo flash (screen looks normal) and a second of video from the
computer and then the screen goes black. When the screen is black the
power light stays on and is green, if you turn off the computer it
goes into yellow standy. I asume the signal section is working, but
something is shutting down the LCD. If I turn it off and turn it back
on with the power button it does the same logo + 1sec of video then
black screen again.

Any ideas? Is this a common fix?
 
In article <pan.2008.07.20.14.03.58.936316@invalid.nospam>,
Doug Smith W9WI <w9wi@invalid.nospam> wrote:

Do you have a preamp on your antenna? Outside? Do neighbors have
preamps? We once had an interference problem in a small town when
someone's preamp malfunctioned & began acting as a small transmitter. It
was thermally-related - would only malfunction when it was cold. (i.e.,
at night...)
Oh, $DEITY, those preamps and distribution amps can be utterly evil.

As you note they'd prone to oscillation, which can generate all sorts
of interference. A couple of boat-born "active TV antenna" amplifiers
managed to knock out GPS reception in the Moss Landing area in
California for quite some time, which was not a good thing for ship
and boat captains who depend on GPS to get them safely through the
fog!

I've also had problems with amps of this sort when there's a radio
transmitter nearby... the strong signal from a transmitter will
saturate the amplifer, causing interference and signal loss on all of
the channels going through the amp.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
 
Ken G. <goodguyy@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:20820-488520A5-176@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net...
I have noticed more & more still on the air analog channels are skipping
, breaking up into squares or stopping compleatly leaving a black strip
with the words ``poor signal`` on it over & over during the program .
This is all station errors & problems .
As for digital tv sets or convertors I cant receive digital on anything
portable very good without constantly fighting the antenna . The ones
that do come in are pretty nice though .

What junk ! i hope they fix this as time goes on

Whoever "designed" the compression/modulation/demodulation/decompression for
digital TV should be shot.

Ancient analogue system ,perterbation sequence with progressively worse
signal/interference

snow on picture - can stay with the plot
loss of colour - can stay with the plot
breaking up of b&w pic - cannot really stay with the plot
loss of sound - lost the plot fully

Bells and whistles modern digital , perterbation sequence

breaking up of sound - lost the plot already
loss of moving sections of image - lost the plot previously
intermixing of parts of static frames - lost plot previously
"no signal"


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
You must go to a Sony parts supplier only. I have my doubts they will
sell the part alone. Normaly they supply the complete board or module.


--

JANA
_____


<skydeaner@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:541f9985-6bff-4b09-a7ae-a85fed4cb7ea@k37g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
I need a ccfl transformer with a primary voltage of 13v and a
secondary of 800v

dimensions are 26.2mmX21.8mmX10.8mm (LxWxH) I have checked mouser
and digikey and i haven't really been able to find anything similar.
It is from a sony 17" monitor, it goes to 2 ccfl tubes. The Power
board is gopowernet.com model number pwi17l2585a The monitor's model
number is sdm-hs74p I couldn't find the board on gopowernet.com's
website. The only writing on the part i need is l170(c) and
NY0431fc

I hope someone can shine some light on this. On the board it says
800vac/15ma max
 
In article <g640km$qil$1@registered.motzarella.org>,
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Whoever "designed" the compression/modulation/demodulation/decompression
for digital TV should be shot.

Ancient analogue system ,perterbation sequence with progressively worse
signal/interference

snow on picture - can stay with the plot
loss of colour - can stay with the plot
breaking up of b&w pic - cannot really stay with the plot
loss of sound - lost the plot fully

Bells and whistles modern digital , perterbation sequence

breaking up of sound - lost the plot already
loss of moving sections of image - lost the plot previously
intermixing of parts of static frames - lost plot previously
"no signal"
That by nature is common to all digital systems. So you need to make sure
you have a robust signal.

The first digital off air we had in the UK is the NICAM TV sound system -
and that kept going after the picture was unwatchable.

FreeView should become more robust when analogue is switched off - they
can then up the ERP.

--
*A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4fc2d345fcdave@davenoise.co.uk...
In article <g640km$qil$1@registered.motzarella.org>,
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Whoever "designed" the compression/modulation/demodulation/decompression
for digital TV should be shot.

Ancient analogue system ,perterbation sequence with progressively worse
signal/interference

snow on picture - can stay with the plot
loss of colour - can stay with the plot
breaking up of b&w pic - cannot really stay with the plot
loss of sound - lost the plot fully

Bells and whistles modern digital , perterbation sequence

breaking up of sound - lost the plot already
loss of moving sections of image - lost the plot previously
intermixing of parts of static frames - lost plot previously
"no signal"

That by nature is common to all digital systems. So you need to make sure
you have a robust signal.

The first digital off air we had in the UK is the NICAM TV sound system -
and that kept going after the picture was unwatchable.

FreeView should become more robust when analogue is switched off - they
can then up the ERP.

--
*A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Have you seen the last point , in black & white, stated in UK operational
policy somewhere ? any pointers to a document?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w4p6iay50.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...
OK, so here's the really strange problem dejour. :)

One day last week, my Internet access dropped out a couple times
(I have DSL). That's not totally unusual. But the next day, it
would only stay up for a couple minutes after booting and then was dead.

Swapped DSL modem - nothing.
Bypassed wireless router - nothing.

Figured, OK, so for some reason, the PC's on-board Ethernet port is dying.
Bought a PCI Ethernet card on eBay for $6 including shipping :).

No change.

Then I discovered that it works fine locally. All PCs on my LAN,
wireless or direct, can talk to each other. But for some reason
this PC refuses to go out over the DSL modem. In fact, it won't even
talk to the DSL modem directly (if the Ethernet cable is plugged
into the model bypassing the router and entering the model URL),
but will talk to the router directly.

What the !@#$!@# is going on??? :) Virus? Some setting got corrupted?

Any info or thoughts appreciated.


Do you have Zone Alarm? A week or so ago after an automatic Microsoft
update, millions of computers could not access the net, including mine.
Some Zone Alarm firewall and MicroPants software issue.

If you have Zone Alarm, go to their website and there is info on fixes.



Gareth.
 
"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:2aGdnRKMbvj9eRjVnZ2dnUVZ8u2dnZ2d@bt.com...
"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w4p6iay50.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...
OK, so here's the really strange problem dejour. :)

One day last week, my Internet access dropped out a couple times
(I have DSL). That's not totally unusual. But the next day, it
would only stay up for a couple minutes after booting and then was dead.

Swapped DSL modem - nothing.
Bypassed wireless router - nothing.

Figured, OK, so for some reason, the PC's on-board Ethernet port is
dying.
Bought a PCI Ethernet card on eBay for $6 including shipping :).

No change.

Then I discovered that it works fine locally. All PCs on my LAN,
wireless or direct, can talk to each other. But for some reason
this PC refuses to go out over the DSL modem. In fact, it won't even
talk to the DSL modem directly (if the Ethernet cable is plugged
into the model bypassing the router and entering the model URL),
but will talk to the router directly.

What the !@#$!@# is going on??? :) Virus? Some setting got corrupted?

Any info or thoughts appreciated.




Do you have Zone Alarm? A week or so ago after an automatic Microsoft
update, millions of computers could not access the net, including mine.
Some Zone Alarm firewall and MicroPants software issue.

If you have Zone Alarm, go to their website and there is info on fixes.



Gareth.
But if you have no net access you can't do that can you. Oops.

When I first rang my ISP about no Interweb, the chap advised me to uninstall
Zone Alarm as he had suffered the same problem!. I did and immediately got
my Net access back. I quickly downloaded a Free Antivirus to cover my arse.
However, I couldn't find out how to download Zone Alarm again. The key I
have will only fit the version it is designed for, and trial versions
couldn't be switched to the Pro version I had paid for.
I sent them an email and several days later got a pointer to the reinstall
thingy, with the advice to Save to the hard drive rather than jut run it.
This is it.
http://download.zonealarm.com/bin/free/1043_zl/zaAvSetup_70_483_000_en.exe

What a palaver that was, I can tell you.



Gareth.
 
On 22 Jul 2008 08:42:19 -0400, Sam Goldwasser wrote:

<--snip-->
--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
Sam,

You should fix your .sig. The first line of your .sig needs to be a "-- ".
Thats is: just 2 dashes and a blank - _nothing_ else.

Without that, everyone's followups to you include your (already too
long) .sig and make a mess in trying to read the thread -- that is,
unless they are clever and kind enough to trim their followups.

Regards,
Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
*** Killfiling google posts: <http://jonz.net/ng.htm>
 
On Tue, 22 Jul 2008 15:23:11 +0100, Adrian C wrote:
Gareth Magennis wrote:
http://download.zonealarm.com/bin/free/1043_zl/zaAvSetup_70_483_000_en.exe

What a palaver that was, I can tell you.

If you have a SPI capable router using NAT, and are aware of what
programs (including adware/spyware) are running on your computer, you
don't really need ZoneAlarm or any other additional firewall software
above Microsoft's...
<cough> <cough>
*Everything* on _this_ computer is "above Microsoft's".
In fact, there is *NO* m$ code on this computer.
 
In article <g64ek3$6qe$1@registered.motzarella.org>,
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
FreeView should become more robust when analogue is switched off - they
can then up the ERP.

Have you seen the last point , in black & white, stated in UK operational
policy somewhere ? any pointers to a document?
http://www.wolfbane.com/ukdtt.htm

--
*How much deeper would the oceans be without sponges? *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
In article <6w4p6iay50.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu>,
Sam Goldwasser <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

OK, so here's the really strange problem dejour. :)

One day last week, my Internet access dropped out a couple times
(I have DSL). That's not totally unusual. But the next day, it
would only stay up for a couple minutes after booting and then was dead.

Swapped DSL modem - nothing.
Bypassed wireless router - nothing.

Figured, OK, so for some reason, the PC's on-board Ethernet port is dying.
Bought a PCI Ethernet card on eBay for $6 including shipping :).

No change.

Then I discovered that it works fine locally. All PCs on my LAN,
wireless or direct, can talk to each other. But for some reason
this PC refuses to go out over the DSL modem. In fact, it won't even
talk to the DSL modem directly (if the Ethernet cable is plugged
into the model bypassing the router and entering the model URL),
but will talk to the router directly.

What the !@#$!@# is going on??? :) Virus? Some setting got corrupted?
Could be one of those.

My first hunch would be, try a new known-good Ethernet cable or three.
I've seen Ethernet cables go bad (both home-made and commercially-
bought) when one of the pin-to-wire crimp-on junctions went
intermittent due to oxidation or flexing stress or old age or a
contrary nature. The resulting misbehavior can be extremely
frustrating, as the failures are sometimes intermittent, sensitive to
packet length and content, sensitive to what machines the cable is
connecting, the switch port, etc.

Another datum: my DSL-router/firewall/mail-server system in the
garage recently stopped talking to the rest of the systems in the
house, for no apparent reason. Switch connectivity looked good,
activity lights blinking, but no actual packet traffic.

It turned out that the switch had stopped forwarding packets... its
internal bridging engine had apparently crashed. Power-cycling it
fixed the problem... for about a week, and then the problem
recurred... again, power-cycling the switch cleared the fault.

I retired the switch and the problem hasn't come back.

Chasing down these sorts of problems is often an exercise in
"substitute, swap, see when/where the problem moves or goes away."

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
 
"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wod4pamkq.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...
Adrian C <email@here.invalid> writes:

Gareth Magennis wrote:
http://download.zonealarm.com/bin/free/1043_zl/zaAvSetup_70_483_000_en.exe
What a palaver that was, I can tell you.


If you have a SPI capable router using NAT, and are aware of what
programs (including adware/spyware) are running on your computer, you
don't really need ZoneAlarm or any other additional firewall software
above Microsoft's...

Yeah, both my router and DSL modem have ALL kinds of features I haven't
the slightest clue about! :)

Zonealarm has been good to me so I stick with it. :)

Was the information on the ZA/MS interaction sent as an email advisory?
I'm supposed to get those.....

I didn't get anything.

If you are using Zone Alarm I would seriously start considering this to be
the cause of your problem, unless you have done something to fix it. My
network was fine, other computers without Zone Alarm could access the Net,
mine with Zone Alarm could not.



Gareth.
 
Sorry Doug But I think you are wrong, any signal that is transmitted over
the air
it is subject to interferences, propagation, ducting and many other
phenomena
which I can't explain I have no engineering degree but problems are real
from audio frequencies to your cell phone the difference is in how much
interferences can be tolerated
KA2AYS

"Doug Smith W9WI" <w9wi@invalid.nospam> wrote in message
news:pan.2008.07.19.15.00.52.380839@invalid.nospam...
On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 13:56:43 +0000, New Jersey wrote:
I can not say for sure but there is station that they must
change direction of antennas from night to day or wise versa
because of signal propagation which interfere with other networks
FCC regulation sorry KA2AYS

That only applies to AM radio stations.

All TV stations (analog and digital) are licensed for the same technical
facilities 24/7.

I wonder if the OP's problems stem from interference from some device
that's only operated during the day? (say, neon lights at a nearby store?
Or a factory with large motors?)

Does *analog* reception change from day to night - do you get snowy
daytime reception, or funny patterns, etc., etc.?
 
Going back a number of years, with some of the rubber key-pads the rubber
would start to degenerate. Eventually the rubber material will start
breaking down.

--

JANA
_____


"Ron" <BigELilE05@msn.com> wrote in message
news:2e4cb763-066f-433a-b1c6-efb736eb5add@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
I have an older Mitsubishi TV remote and the channel up/down button
stopped working.

So I took it apart, and it had some kind of "sticky goo" inside. Not
only on top of the rubber keypad between the buttons, but also between
the keypad and the circuit board. It closely resembled Vasoline.

I cleaned the entire remote with rubbing alcohol and Q-tips and now it
works fine.

Does anyone know what in the hell the sticky goo was? The only thing I
could find on Google, was that it was a natural break down of the
rubber.

(and no it has NEVER had anything spilled on it)
 

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