Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[William Sommerwerck]

The worst part of it is that this problem is easy to fix, but most remote
controls are almost impossible to disassemble.

Screws aren't enough -- the back snaps together so tightly that, unless you
have the right tool and know how to use it, it's impossible to open the back
without destroying the unit. I irreparably damaged remote for a Toshiba IDTV
doing this, and of course, full-function replacements aren't available.

The remote for my NAD MR-20a is secured solely wth screws, and is easy to
clean.

 

[N_Cook]

Ron(UK) <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:xICdnXttZtdtiRrVnZ2dnUVZ8g6dnZ2d@bt.com...

William Sommerwerck wrote:
The worst part of it is that this problem is easy to fix, but most
remote
controls are almost impossible to disassemble.

Screws aren't enough -- the back snaps together so tightly that, unless
you
have the right tool and know how to use it, it's impossible to open the
back
without destroying the unit. I irreparably damaged remote for a Toshiba
IDTV
doing this, and of course, full-function replacements aren't available.

The remote for my NAD MR-20a is secured solely wth screws, and is easy
to
clean.

Warming them with a heat gun, and a bit of twisting often gets them
apart. Don't over heat ones with lcd displays tho.

Ron

I've often done that, assuming a hot air gun , masking off any problem areas
like LCD, soft buttons etc. Stout thumb nails are useful tools also,
structuraly just about the right material.
Anyone know of a similar material that is easier to use with heated plastic?
Thin, tough and short scale flexible, long enough to get some purchase


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Allodoxaphobia]

On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 14:06:24 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

Ron(UK) <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:xICdnXttZtdtiRrVnZ2dnUVZ8g6dnZ2d@bt.com...
William Sommerwerck wrote:
The worst part of it is that this problem is easy to fix, but most
remote controls are almost impossible to disassemble.
Screws aren't enough -- the back snaps together so tightly that, unless
you
have the right tool and know how to use it, it's impossible to open the
back
without destroying the unit. I irreparably damaged remote for a Toshiba
IDTV
doing this, and of course, full-function replacements aren't available.
The remote for my NAD MR-20a is secured solely wth screws, and is easy
to clean.

Warming them with a heat gun, and a bit of twisting often gets them
apart. Don't over heat ones with lcd displays tho.

I've often done that, assuming a hot air gun , masking off any problem areas
like LCD, soft buttons etc. Stout thumb nails are useful tools also,
structuraly just about the right material.
Anyone know of a similar material that is easier to use with heated plastic?
Thin, tough and short scale flexible, long enough to get some purchase

I've used relay points burnishing files.
About 6-7 mm wide and ~10 cm long.
Got them 40 years ago as a Field Tech for IBM.
The wrong tool for the right job.

Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
*** Killfiling google posts: <http://jonz.net/ng.htm>

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"Ron(UK)" <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:xICdnXttZtdtiRrVnZ2dnUVZ8g6dnZ2d@bt.com...

William Sommerwerck wrote:
The worst part of it is that this problem is easy to fix, but most remote
controls are almost impossible to disassemble.

Screws aren't enough -- the back snaps together so tightly that, unless
you
have the right tool and know how to use it, it's impossible to open the
back
without destroying the unit. I irreparably damaged remote for a Toshiba
IDTV
doing this, and of course, full-function replacements aren't available.

The remote for my NAD MR-20a is secured solely wth screws, and is easy to
clean.

Warming them with a heat gun, and a bit of twisting often gets them apart.
Don't over heat ones with lcd displays tho.

Ron

Laptop people use "spudgers". Great word, that. Here's a demo.
http://reviews.ebay.co.uk/Open-an-iBook-for-repairs-without-damaging-the-case_W0QQugidZ10000000005121811



Gareth.

 

[N_Cook]

Gareth Magennis <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:XO2dnafANrhBrhrVnZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@bt.com...

"Ron(UK)" <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:xICdnXttZtdtiRrVnZ2dnUVZ8g6dnZ2d@bt.com...
William Sommerwerck wrote:
The worst part of it is that this problem is easy to fix, but most
remote
controls are almost impossible to disassemble.

Screws aren't enough -- the back snaps together so tightly that, unless
you
have the right tool and know how to use it, it's impossible to open the
back
without destroying the unit. I irreparably damaged remote for a Toshiba
IDTV
doing this, and of course, full-function replacements aren't available.

The remote for my NAD MR-20a is secured solely wth screws, and is easy
to
clean.

Warming them with a heat gun, and a bit of twisting often gets them
apart.
Don't over heat ones with lcd displays tho.

Ron


Laptop people use "spudgers". Great word, that. Here's a demo.

http://reviews.ebay.co.uk/Open-an-iBook-for-repairs-without-damaging-the-cas

e_W0QQugidZ10000000005121811

Gareth.

They mention nylon as the material of spodgers which I would say has not the
same characteristics as human thumb nail.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Chris F.]

I had a fancy '85 RCA with the exact same problem, and the cause took some
time narrow down. Turns out the horizontal output transistor was shorting
after it warmed up, causing the switching power supply to shut down (without
blowing fuses etc - wish they still built stuff this well). Replacing the
transistor fixed the set.
If you aren't familiar with the inner workings of a TV, I'd recommend
taking it to a professional. A competent and honest tech should be able to
fix it for a reasonable price.
The most bizarre cause of this problem I ever saw was on an old
Electrohome from the early 80's. Believe it or not, the primary winding on
the flyback was opening after the flyback warmed up - I never saw anything
like that before or since.
"CJT" <abujlehc@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:488218E7.5030802@prodigy.net...

Stan wrote:

I've enjoyed for 8 years a nice, jumbo sized, handsome real wood box,
cubic shaped, on-a-lazy-susan-base, GE TV, model 25PP5859K (built in Nov.
1984). I bought it used in 2000. I don't have or want cable TV-- I only
watch free, broadcast type TV shows. [I've had this TV connected for
maybe
the past 1.5 months to a cheap Magnavox TV converter box.]

The other day I turned on the TV, it worked fine for a few minutes and
then suddenly goes dead. This pattern can be repeated after a short rest
of the TV: it goes on, picture looks fine and sound is OK and then
suddenly
dies -- goes totally silent and black -- after a few minutes running.

What could be wrong with it? Does this sound like it's the main picture
tube which is shot or something else? [This TV must have been a
costly, state-of-the-art one when it came out in 1984, so I guess the
best
electronics for its time were used in its construction.]

Tell me what you think or suspect.


Thanks

[To contact me, drop one 'i'.]

One can't be certain, but I'll hazard a guess --

Assuming it's a color set, it'll have a protective circuit that shuts it
down (in order to avoid X-ray emissions) if the picture tube begins to
draw too much current. Either that circuit is failing/has drifted out
of tolerance, or something else causes the current draw to enter the
"danger" zone once the set warms up.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:RPOdnScVSpkqlhrVnZ2dnUVZ_orinZ2d@comcast.com...

The worst part of it is that this problem is easy to fix, but most remote
controls are almost impossible to disassemble.

Screws aren't enough -- the back snaps together so tightly that, unless
you
have the right tool and know how to use it, it's impossible to open the
back
without destroying the unit. I irreparably damaged remote for a Toshiba
IDTV
doing this, and of course, full-function replacements aren't available.

The remote for my NAD MR-20a is secured solely wth screws, and is easy to
clean.

A blunt curved X-acto blade in a standard X-acto holder, will easily open
any clipped together remote control. It's just a case of experience really,
I think.

Arfa

 

[William Sommerwerck]

A blunt curved X-acto blade in a standard X-acto holder, will
easily open any clipped together remote control. It's just a
case [sic] of experience really, I think.

I attacked the case quite aggressively, and it simply bent, rather than
budging. I wasn't even able to break the case -- though I did (as I found
out later) break the PC board, rendering the unit unrepairable.

I think I'm going to call Toshiba. Not only doesn't Toshiba make a
compatible remote, but they don't supply the full set of codes to
replacement-remote manufacturers.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <3jci74t524d2trb8sv08s87poi65asv7nf@4ax.com>,
<hpitney3@none.com> wrote:

I have one of those 12 volt solar panels. It was on a electronic
solar fence charger for farms. The rest of the fence charger was
dead, but the solar panel works. I want to connect it to a 12V car
battery. Do I just connect it directly, or does there need to be a
diode or other parts in between, so the battery dont fry the solar
panel?

If the panel is large enough to produce a meaningful charge into your
battery it will need some form of regulation to prevent overcharging the
battery.

--
*Lottery: A tax on people who are bad at math.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[N_Cook]

jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:7PVhk.241$BX5.232@bignews6.bellsouth.net...

Tim wrote:
In article <g67adf$th8$1@registered.motzarella.org>, diverse@tcp.co.uk
says...
Ron(UK) <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:xICdnXttZtdtiRrVnZ2dnUVZ8g6dnZ2d@bt.com...
William Sommerwerck wrote:

Guitar picks...they come in many sizes/thicknesses/degrees of stiffness.
Top it off, they're almost the perfect size.

jak

jak

That sounds likely , what do you mean by top it off? I may try gluing one in
a split or cut piece of wooden dowel. Whatever that material is , its
simulating human finger nail.
I too have held back mock american express cards but they are too floppy and
relatively thick for this task.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[N_Cook]

at least a diode, one for/from a switch mode power supply or an old
Germanium one , so only dropping 0.2V or so


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Have you spoken with Palm about the cost of a repair?

 

[A.Boisvert]

S C A M ? ? ? ?

--

Have a great day!/Bonne Journée!
Aurel

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news:63f0ba58-89af-49b4-8af5-d129dd68f88b@v1g2000pra.googlegroups.com...

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[Arfa Daily]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:JN2dnVZaV9LIQhrVnZ2dnUVZ_vGdnZ2d@comcast.com...

A blunt curved X-acto blade in a standard X-acto holder, will
easily open any clipped together remote control. It's just a
case [sic] of experience really, I think.

I attacked the case quite aggressively, and it simply bent, rather than
budging. I wasn't even able to break the case -- though I did (as I found
out later) break the PC board, rendering the unit unrepairable.

I think I'm going to call Toshiba. Not only doesn't Toshiba make a
compatible remote, but they don't supply the full set of codes to
replacement-remote manufacturers.

You must normally release at least two of the clip points, holding them
released either with a second knife / credit card / finger / any of the
other good suggestions that there has been, before finding the rest of the
clip points, which will usually then just 'spring' quite readily. Once you
have three or four of them released, it will virtually fall apart.
Sometimes, they can seem like they are resisting unreasonably, but once you
find the right places to 'probe', it sometimes amazes you how readily they
then come apart, and you can't believe that it has taken you so long. The
top edge of some monitor cabinets is a similar case in point, where unless
you find the exact right place to probe, the clips will resist you until the
plastic breaks.

Arfa

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article
<2b40edef-2eae-4956-818b-cd6790c7c466@59g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>,
terry <tsanford@nf.sympatico.ca> wrote:

Sounds right. But as not in this posting, do recall at least one 12
volt European car radio of the 1950s that had a polarity plug that had
to be placed in the correct position. But reading this now can't think
why that was necessary! Maybe they were synchronous vibrators or
something.

Wonder when transistors started to be used? Hybrid sets were certainly
around in the early '60s.

--
*I'm pretty sure that sex is better than logic, but I can't prove it.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Sometimes, they can seem like they are resisting unreasonably,
but once you find the right places to 'probe', it sometimes amazes
you how readily they then come apart, and you can't believe that
it has taken you so long.

Which is exactly the point. This is a large remote, and it's hard to even
begin to guess where the "ears" are.

I just bought some AR interconnects, which come in a large snap-shut "egg".
I had little trouble getting it open. So why...?

 

[Dave Platt]

I have a good watch but it has developed a leak, Is there any house
hold type of ingredient that I could use to help the gasket seal
better. thanks.

JB Weld will fix anything.

Other than traffic tickets, that is. JB Weld has clear ethical standards!

For something a trifle less permanent than epoxy... I'd simply replace
the gasket. The instructions which came with my watch recommend
replacing the rear-plate O-ring gasket periodically (every few
years)... I imagine that the elastomer compresses, and becomes less
resilient with age, and thus doesn't seal as well.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[DaveM]

"PeterD" <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
news:gg7i84th8cf3dmubt97679th63dsjcflvu@4ax.com...

On Thu, 24 Jul 2008 16:49:34 -0700 (PDT), lbbss <labicff@yahoo.com
wrote:

I have a good watch but it has developed a leak, Is there any house
hold type of ingredient that I could use to help the gasket seal
better. thanks.

JB Weld will fix anything.

LOL !!!!

You can use a silicone grease (NOT a sealant), available at your local hardware
or home improvement center. Just squeeze a dab onto your finger, then
thoroughly coat the gasket (O-ring) with the silicone. Reassemble the watch.
That should keep moisture out. Make sure that the gasket is seated into its
groove and tighten the screws holding the back on the case well...

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <7I8ik.1480$nu6.909@edtnps83>,
jordo <notmy@email.address> wrote:

I have a JVC rear projection tv that I bought second hand a little over
a year ago. It works fine except for the HDMI input. When I plug it
into my cable box and switch to the digital input, it can't detect
anything (and says it's gonna turn off in 9 minutes if nothing is
connected before then
). However, if I plug in my computer via a dvi/hdmi cable, the tv
:still
doesn't detect a connection, but the computer recognizes the tv for the
model number that it is. There is no setting in the tv that can affect
the input, from what I can find (and I went over all the menus multiple
times).

Any ideas on what might be causing this? If it's an electrical problem,
is it worth my time to get an electronic technician to fix it?

Dunno if it's any help, but my Sagem DLP detects any of the many inputs
coming alive and switches out of standby - except the digital one which in
this case is a DVI type.

--
*A day without sunshine is like... night.*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Take it apart, clean the gasket,and its mating surfaces, and smear
a *small* amount of Vaseline/petroleum jelly on it, and reassemble.
Usually works for me.

If the gasket is natural rubber (and perhaps even "synthetic"), Vaseline
will dissolve it. Anyone who uses a certain product found in pharmacies
knows this.

I wondered whether the original post were a troll, as it's hard to
understand how the poster would be aware the watch was leaking, without it
having been inundated with water.