Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[William Sommerwerck]

Shutting off closed-captioning, as the post made clear.

The poster was rather... naive. You generally have to press the "accept" (or
whatever) button before a setting takes effect.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

OK, so I know it would be cheaper to just buy a new one but I like
the challenge... and I just bought a pack of 7 replacement brushes...

At Costco, right? Their regular price is quite low, and they had a $5 off
coupon.

This model charges a rechargeable battery inductively and is
sealed up tighter than a ... (supply your own metaphor).

Crab's behind.

Girven the "slots" on the bottom, my gut feeling is that the end cap
unscrews. The worse that could happen is that you'll wreck it trying to
unscrew it.

I realize there is a legitimate need to make devices of this type
watertight, but this is a situation where there ought to be government
regulations. I don't like throwing away something that could be reused
("reduce, reuse, recycle") by replacing the battery.

 

[Sergey Kubushin]

Colin Horsley <horsley-spam@westnet.com.au> wrote:

It

Fixed What?

"sashmo" <sashawaring@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:111ec896-3646-49e0-a167-0a907daf0e6e@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
So, you scroll through the CC options until you get to CC Off, as you
have been doing with the button on your remote. Instead of just
letting it disappear on its own, you have to hit the "Status/Exit"
button when you arrive at the CC Off option, to confirm that you want
to turn it off for good. Once you do this, the CC's should not come
back once you turn off and turn on your TV. Hope it works!

---
******************************************************************
* KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
* Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
******************************************************************
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"sashmo" <sashawaring@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:111ec896-3646-49e0-a167-0a907daf0e6e@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

So, you scroll through the CC options until you get to CC Off, as you
have been doing with the button on your remote. Instead of just
letting it disappear on its own, you have to hit the "Status/Exit"
button when you arrive at the CC Off option, to confirm that you want
to turn it off for good. Once you do this, the CC's should not come
back once you turn off and turn on your TV. Hope it works!

Good for you! Glad to hear you figured out your problem.

 

[DaveM]

"mac-g3" <mac-g3@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:489511ca$0$1853$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com...

Hi all,

Just bought a late 1990's Altec Lansing ACS340 computer speaker system (2
satellites and 1 subwoofer) and need to find a workable AC/DC adapter solution
for it. It requires a 13v 4a adapter which is common, but uses an uncommon
round multi pin connector. Anyone have a schematic for this speaker system or
possibly familiar with the power connector layout?

Thanks
AJ

A quick Google yielded this link at Dell
http://www.serverpartswarehouse.com/0420r.html

No price listed, so you'll have to contact Dell parts for that.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <r697rnea.fsf@seas.upenn.edu>,
Samuel M. Goldwasser <sam@seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

Can't help you there.
Just wanted to let you know your sig is broken:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/msg/48e6896467a3edfd

What's broken about it? I know it doesn't line up well with a
variable-width font but what besides that?

You're not using the approved sig separator which should be <dash dash
space> - see below.

--
*I don't suffer from insanity -- I'm a carrier

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[David Combs]

In article <ljzk2sqx.fsf@seas.upenn.edu>,
Samuel M. Goldwasser <sam@seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

David Lesher <wb8foz@panix.com> writes:

sam@ece.drexel.edu writes:

So UPenn and Drexel have pulled the plug on their USENET news
servers. I'm looking for recommendations on newsgroup access,
preferably via GNUS, which many consider antiquated, as far as I can
tell, it is 10 times faster to read and post than using the fancy GUI
"modern" alternatives.


Get a Panix account <http://www.panix.com/shell.html

That's something to consider.

Thanks!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

And then use "trn4" as your newsreader.

David

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <abfujaq9.fsf@seas.upenn.edu>,
Samuel M. Goldwasser <sam@seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

You're not using the approved sig separator which should be <dash dash
space> - see below.

Approved sig separator? Huh? I guess I'll have to recall my
35,000 or so posts over the last 15 years.

It's been a standard for much longer than that. ;-)

--
*A dog's not just for Christmas, it's alright on a Friday night too*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"Heinz Schmitz" <HeinzSchmitz@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:259894tu2ro9sl57p3bed42tq7c6r98s6d@4ax.com...

Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:

And you expected them to include a service manual with schematics
and step-by-step repair instructions? Of course these things are
considered disposable. If the mfg. can save 0.01 cent on the
cost, that's significant. It's not like they stuck a couple
Alkalines and said they aren't replaceable. This is a rechargeable
batter which should last a reasonable length of time.

Would you please define your phrase 'reasonable' in terms of time.

Why didn't they print onto the box
'Usable during a period of <reasonable> <eg years>' ?

Regards,
H.

In the end everything stops working. Nothing lasts forever.. And to that end
most products don't list their MTBF on the retail package. I understand why
your upset, but we live in a disposable world and thats just the way things
are.

 

[N Cook]

Michael Kennedy <mike@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:7LydnTcnd_GzXgvVnZ2dnUVZ_qzinZ2d@comcast.com...

"Heinz Schmitz" <HeinzSchmitz@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:259894tu2ro9sl57p3bed42tq7c6r98s6d@4ax.com...
Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:

And you expected them to include a service manual with schematics
and step-by-step repair instructions? Of course these things are
considered disposable. If the mfg. can save 0.01 cent on the
cost, that's significant. It's not like they stuck a couple
Alkalines and said they aren't replaceable. This is a rechargeable
batter which should last a reasonable length of time.

Would you please define your phrase 'reasonable' in terms of time.

Why didn't they print onto the box
'Usable during a period of <reasonable> <eg years>' ?

Regards,
H.


In the end everything stops working. Nothing lasts forever.. And to that
end
most products don't list their MTBF on the retail package. I understand
why
your upset, but we live in a disposable world and thats just the way
things
are.

All the rechargeable electric toothbrushes I've ever seen have the charging
point on the base . This leaves the motor head uppermost and spittle , via
gravity, passes through the "seal" into the electrics. Turn the things
upside down for charging and they go on for years with no trouble.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Arfa Daily]

"EADGBE" <hwbosshoss@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:11afc72d-fb08-42db-a77c-11080a878ac0@34g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

Arfa:

You hit the nail on the head. The problem appears to be related to
the power supply...or at least to a component downstream from the
power supply.

Right next to the connector that leads to the laser assembly, one of
the contacts is labeled "5V". Measuring this contact gives me less
than half a volt under all circumstances.

This 5V contact leads directly to the collector of a 2SA1270
transistor. The transistor checks out OK, although the same half a
volt reading is measured at the collector. There is a jumper wire
that leads to the emitter of this same transistor. It is also clearly
labeled "5V", and it measures a healthy 5.08V.

The base of this transistor is connected, via a 10k resistor, to the
middle lead of a very small transistor with "C114" on the case. If it
is a 2SC114, I cannot readily find a replacement for this transistor,
and I cannot find a datasheet, either, so I don't know how to check
this transistor. It gives me weird readings whenever I test it in
standard NPN or PNP pin configurations. IT DOES NOT SEEM TO BE
DEFECTIVE, HOWEVER, because there are several "C114" transistors and
they all give me extremely similar readings whenever I attempt to
measure them in standard NPN and PNP pin configurations. There are
also a couple of 100uF/16V electrolytics in this circuit used as
couplings to ground, but they check out fine with my ESR meter and my
analog ohmmeter.

I am going to attempt to keep checking upstream to see where things
break down.

Hmmm. I haven't specifically looked up this transistor, but I think you
would be correct in assuming that it is "2SC", in which case, it is NPN by
default. However, that said, if the readings are 'odd', and compare
similarly with others of the same number, then it's probably one of the
types which has internal resistors connected to some of the terminals -
these are very common. From the configuration that you are reporting, I
would suspect that this is in fact a switch circuit, probably driven by the
system control micro, so it may or may not be faulty. At an 'experienced
guess' I would think that you would be expecting to see some change in
voltage level at the 10 k resistor, and further back at the base leg of the
small transistor, as a result of shifting the unit from some quiescent state
to an active one i.e. from "standby" to "on" or from "stop" to "play". If
you do see such a level shift, but the 5v never appears at the output of the
2SA1270 (which will be PNP, incidentally) then you do have a problem in this
circuit. If you're brave, you can always link the collector of the 2SA to
its emitter, thus 'simulating' the switched on condition, and see what
happens. It will at least tell you if the primary problem is anything to do
with this voltage apparently being missing. If you're not quite brave enough
to do it by putting a screwdriver tip across the transistor leads, solder a
1 ohm fusible resistor across there.

Arfa

 

[William Sommerwerck]

All the rechargeable electric toothbrushes I've ever seen have the
charging point on the base . This leaves the motor head uppermost
and spittle, via gravity, passes through the "seal" into the electrics.
Turn the things upside down for charging and they go on for years
with no trouble.

I've never had one fail other than by battery failure.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:hBAlk.143651$7O1.42504@newsfe12.ams2...

"EADGBE" <hwbosshoss@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:11afc72d-fb08-42db-a77c-11080a878ac0@34g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

Arfa:

You hit the nail on the head. The problem appears to be related to
the power supply...or at least to a component downstream from the
power supply.

Right next to the connector that leads to the laser assembly, one of
the contacts is labeled "5V". Measuring this contact gives me less
than half a volt under all circumstances.

This 5V contact leads directly to the collector of a 2SA1270
transistor. The transistor checks out OK, although the same half a
volt reading is measured at the collector. There is a jumper wire
that leads to the emitter of this same transistor. It is also clearly
labeled "5V", and it measures a healthy 5.08V.

The base of this transistor is connected, via a 10k resistor, to the
middle lead of a very small transistor with "C114" on the case. If it
is a 2SC114, I cannot readily find a replacement for this transistor,
and I cannot find a datasheet, either, so I don't know how to check
this transistor. It gives me weird readings whenever I test it in
standard NPN or PNP pin configurations. IT DOES NOT SEEM TO BE
DEFECTIVE, HOWEVER, because there are several "C114" transistors and
they all give me extremely similar readings whenever I attempt to
measure them in standard NPN and PNP pin configurations. There are
also a couple of 100uF/16V electrolytics in this circuit used as
couplings to ground, but they check out fine with my ESR meter and my
analog ohmmeter.

I am going to attempt to keep checking upstream to see where things
break down.

Hmmm. I haven't specifically looked up this transistor, but I think you
would be correct in assuming that it is "2SC", in which case, it is NPN by
default. However, that said, if the readings are 'odd', and compare
similarly with others of the same number, then it's probably one of the
types which has internal resistors connected to some of the terminals -
these are very common. From the configuration that you are reporting, I
would suspect that this is in fact a switch circuit, probably driven by
the system control micro, so it may or may not be faulty. At an
'experienced guess' I would think that you would be expecting to see some
change in voltage level at the 10 k resistor, and further back at the base
leg of the small transistor, as a result of shifting the unit from some
quiescent state to an active one i.e. from "standby" to "on" or from
"stop" to "play". If you do see such a level shift, but the 5v never
appears at the output of the 2SA1270 (which will be PNP, incidentally)
then you do have a problem in this circuit. If you're brave, you can
always link the collector of the 2SA to its emitter, thus 'simulating' the
switched on condition, and see what happens. It will at least tell you if
the primary problem is anything to do with this voltage apparently being
missing. If you're not quite brave enough to do it by putting a
screwdriver tip across the transistor leads, solder a 1 ohm fusible
resistor across there.

Arfa

The "114" is indeed a digital transistor, a DTC114.

Mark Z.

 

[DaveM]

"Michael Kennedy" <mike@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:7LydnTcnd_GzXgvVnZ2dnUVZ_qzinZ2d@comcast.com...

"Heinz Schmitz" <HeinzSchmitz@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:259894tu2ro9sl57p3bed42tq7c6r98s6d@4ax.com...
Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:

And you expected them to include a service manual with schematics
and step-by-step repair instructions? Of course these things are
considered disposable. If the mfg. can save 0.01 cent on the
cost, that's significant. It's not like they stuck a couple
Alkalines and said they aren't replaceable. This is a rechargeable
batter which should last a reasonable length of time.

Would you please define your phrase 'reasonable' in terms of time.

Why didn't they print onto the box
'Usable during a period of <reasonable> <eg years>' ?

Regards,
H.


In the end everything stops working. Nothing lasts forever.. And to that end
most products don't list their MTBF on the retail package. I understand why
your upset, but we live in a disposable world and thats just the way things
are.

My OralB electric toothbrush has been operating flawlessly for about 10 years.
I've no direct knowledge of the battery type inside, but I assume that it is a
NiCad. Every 6 months or so I fully discharge the battery and recharge a couple
of times. To discharge it, I just turn it on, set on the countertop and let it
run until it slows significantly.

Nothing lasts forever, but with proper care, it can provide good value. I've no
gripes about my OralB electric. And when it dies for good, I'll likely get
another OralB.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Mark D. Zacharias" <nonsense@nonsense.net> wrote in message
news:8jBlk.32369$co7.13350@nlpi066.nbdc.sbc.com...

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:hBAlk.143651$7O1.42504@newsfe12.ams2...

"EADGBE" <hwbosshoss@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:11afc72d-fb08-42db-a77c-11080a878ac0@34g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

Arfa:

You hit the nail on the head. The problem appears to be related to
the power supply...or at least to a component downstream from the
power supply.

Right next to the connector that leads to the laser assembly, one of
the contacts is labeled "5V". Measuring this contact gives me less
than half a volt under all circumstances.

This 5V contact leads directly to the collector of a 2SA1270
transistor. The transistor checks out OK, although the same half a
volt reading is measured at the collector. There is a jumper wire
that leads to the emitter of this same transistor. It is also clearly
labeled "5V", and it measures a healthy 5.08V.

The base of this transistor is connected, via a 10k resistor, to the
middle lead of a very small transistor with "C114" on the case. If it
is a 2SC114, I cannot readily find a replacement for this transistor,
and I cannot find a datasheet, either, so I don't know how to check
this transistor. It gives me weird readings whenever I test it in
standard NPN or PNP pin configurations. IT DOES NOT SEEM TO BE
DEFECTIVE, HOWEVER, because there are several "C114" transistors and
they all give me extremely similar readings whenever I attempt to
measure them in standard NPN and PNP pin configurations. There are
also a couple of 100uF/16V electrolytics in this circuit used as
couplings to ground, but they check out fine with my ESR meter and my
analog ohmmeter.

I am going to attempt to keep checking upstream to see where things
break down.

Hmmm. I haven't specifically looked up this transistor, but I think you
would be correct in assuming that it is "2SC", in which case, it is NPN
by default. However, that said, if the readings are 'odd', and compare
similarly with others of the same number, then it's probably one of the
types which has internal resistors connected to some of the terminals -
these are very common. From the configuration that you are reporting, I
would suspect that this is in fact a switch circuit, probably driven by
the system control micro, so it may or may not be faulty. At an
'experienced guess' I would think that you would be expecting to see some
change in voltage level at the 10 k resistor, and further back at the
base leg of the small transistor, as a result of shifting the unit from
some quiescent state to an active one i.e. from "standby" to "on" or from
"stop" to "play". If you do see such a level shift, but the 5v never
appears at the output of the 2SA1270 (which will be PNP, incidentally)
then you do have a problem in this circuit. If you're brave, you can
always link the collector of the 2SA to its emitter, thus 'simulating'
the switched on condition, and see what happens. It will at least tell
you if the primary problem is anything to do with this voltage apparently
being missing. If you're not quite brave enough to do it by putting a
screwdriver tip across the transistor leads, solder a 1 ohm fusible
resistor across there.

Arfa


The "114" is indeed a digital transistor, a DTC114.

Mark Z.

Thanks Mark. There you go then. Mark confirms that it is a DTC114 digital
transistor, which means that it is a conventional bipolar type, but with
internal resistors. This all but confirms what I was thinking, and that it
is a switch stage for a 5v rail to somewhere, derived from a permanent 5v
rail, that you are looking at.

Arfa

 

[GregS]

In article <26CdnYMbj6JugQrVnZ2dnUVZ_hjinZ2d@comcast.com>, "DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote:

"Michael Kennedy" <mike@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:7LydnTcnd_GzXgvVnZ2dnUVZ_qzinZ2d@comcast.com...

"Heinz Schmitz" <HeinzSchmitz@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:259894tu2ro9sl57p3bed42tq7c6r98s6d@4ax.com...
Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:

And you expected them to include a service manual with schematics
and step-by-step repair instructions? Of course these things are
considered disposable. If the mfg. can save 0.01 cent on the
cost, that's significant. It's not like they stuck a couple
Alkalines and said they aren't replaceable. This is a rechargeable
batter which should last a reasonable length of time.

Would you please define your phrase 'reasonable' in terms of time.

Why didn't they print onto the box
'Usable during a period of <reasonable> <eg years>' ?

Regards,
H.


In the end everything stops working. Nothing lasts forever.. And to that end
most products don't list their MTBF on the retail package. I understand why
your upset, but we live in a disposable world and thats just the way things
are.


My OralB electric toothbrush has been operating flawlessly for about 10 years.
I've no direct knowledge of the battery type inside, but I assume that it is a
NiCad. Every 6 months or so I fully discharge the battery and recharge a
couple
of times. To discharge it, I just turn it on, set on the countertop and let it
run until it slows significantly.

Nothing lasts forever, but with proper care, it can provide good value. I've
no
gripes about my OralB electric. And when it dies for good, I'll likely get
another OralB.

I had a delux rechargable model. It broke. For $15 you can buy the AA version
and it works just as good or better. The old brushes will not work in the new one.

greg

 

[Arfa Daily]

"EADGBE" <hwbosshoss@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:d42694f5-ade3-4fa2-882b-9fb067603591@j22g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

Arfa:

Are you saying that I should suspect the DTC114 or the 2SA1270? Or
something else?

I'm betting on the DTC114 being the culprit.

Well, it may be the culprit, but you did say that it seemed to compare
favourably, with others of the same type. It should be easy to check if this
stage is working or not, with a couple of voltage measurements. Just check
at the base of the DTC114, to see if the voltage there ever changes when you
alter things i.e. open and close the drawer, hit the PLAY button, hit the
STOP button, go from standby to on etc. If the voltage does change, then
check at the collector or emitter, and see if there is a corresponding, or
inverse change there. If not, then the DTC may well be faulty. If there is
never any change at the base of the DTC, then this is likely not the stage
that's at fault, and it's probably just not being switched by the system
control micro, as a result of some other condition not having been
fulfilled. As I said previously, you can always 'force' the stage, and make
the 5v appear on that second link ...

Try to be logical with the fault location process. Try to understand how the
stage that you are troubleshooting works, and then formulate a set of tests
that will prove out the various sections of it. Only do one test at a time,
and analyse the result against what you were expecting. Use the result
gained to re-evaluate the next test you had planned, and see if it is still
valid, or could be altered to provide you with more information, based on
what you've just found out. Try to remember that fault finding is a dynamic
procedure, which produces 'branches' and deviations from a basic 'model'
that you work out for your tests, at the beginning.

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"d6xkr" <u45258@uwe> wrote in message news:882f878cb28b5@uwe...

hi


my monitor has pin cushion effect problem, and the picture edges are out
of
the view. the monitor controls don't solve it as the (horizontal size)/
(pincushion\trapezoid) controls don't have effect anymore. this problem is
the same as this one posted here
http://www.electronicskb.com/Uwe/Forum.aspx/repair/3504/Viewsonic-E653-Monitor-Squashed-picture

but no body offers a solution. i already opened the monitor case, i found
four chips;

1. LSC506429P 2. TDA4858 3. ATMEL008 4.
KA3842B
JD157V2 67974 24C08
E009C
IJ35BCTBW0025 YTD0021

only two of these i could know what they do, no. 2 and 3.

the first one is motorola and is discontinued, i couldn't find it's
datasheet
so to decide whether was it a culprit or not, i couldn't bring the
datasheet
of the fourth chip either.

the image is normal except for this problem, and all the controls work
fine
except for those i mentioned.

the caps seem to have leaked, but i'm not sure as the monitor was never
opened until the problem showed up which was last thursday. these caps
look
as if they have black heavy dust stuck to thier metal top, and there is
plenty of it everywhere inside but only very few caps have it like this
and
they happen to be arround the four ics i mentioned. but also that
indicates
the leak is old, and the problem appeared three days earlier which adds to
the confusion. anyway the first thing to do morning is to get new
replacements, but i need also to know if someone else had this problem and
if
it was/or not related to the capacitors? did he manage to solve it or not
and
how?

thanx

Seems to me that the advice being given on that forum, whilst not
definitive, is never-the-less exactly right. I would suggest that the first
thing to do would be to check the pincushion amp, and its drive. Also, if
any caps *have* leaked (and you are not confusing the glue that's often
found around their bases, with leaked electrolyte), then they need to be
replaced. Just because they had enough go in them to just about do their job
three days ago, doesn't mean that one of them hasn't gasped its last today.

To use a car analogy, you can drive around today with half a millimetre of
lining material on your brake pads, that stop the car today, and squeal
metal on metal tomorrow ...

The 24C08 is an EEPROM, where all of the setup parameters are stored. It's
not at all unusual for these to get corrupted in TV sets, and to produce
symptoms like you describe, which are not correctable. However, it's often
necessary to pre-program a new blank one with a basic set of parameters,
before it will work.

Finally, a warning. If you are not used to working on monitors, take extreme
care, as they employ switchmode power supplies, which are (literally)
potentially lethal. Also the high voltage generation circuits for the CRT
can give you a nasty bite, as can the CRT itself, long after you have
switched off.

Arfa

 

[N Cook]

richg99 <rich99sue@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:Tfkjk.31606$co7.13902@nlpi066.nbdc.sbc.com...

I have need of a portable, low-temperature glue gun for model airplane
repair in the field. Any ideas about how I would go about converting a
standard $5.00 or so ( cheap) glue gun to use with my 12 volt auto
battery.
I know I can put a converter on, but , for a variety of reasons, I'd
rather
not do that. thanks, Rich

I would recomment making hot melt string.
Use an ordinary gun to extrude continuously onto a large clean sheet of
metal. Then take some and a 12V soldering iron to use the string like
soldering , some aluminium expanded metal from car repair shop for
reinforcement and some cable ties.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Arfa Daily]

<no@spam.please> wrote in message
news:48987cad$0$18150$4fafbaef@reader3.news.tin.it...

Hi everybody,
I'm trying to repair an old cd player, based on a VRDS-7 TEAC mechanic.
The problem is: when I put the disk (both original or cdr), the drawer
closes, the clamp loads the cd, the laser moves towards the center of the
disk and the disk starts spinning. After 4-5 sec, the disk stops and the
laser goes back to the home position (out of the disk area).
The track display shows '0'.

I cleaned the lens with iso-propylic alcohol and I can see the laser red
spot if I side-watch at the lens in the dark.
I marked the original position of the focus and track gain trimmers and
tried to move them, with poor results: the player makes some different
noises and seems to work a bit harder looking for the toc, but with no
different result :-(
I haven't looked at the laser eye diagram yet as I have no scope @home.
I don't know if it is a focus or track problem, or is a laser fault...
Does anybody have any idea? Any help will be highly appreciated.

Tony

Those symptoms are pretty typical of a worn laser. Looking at the eye
pattern may help with diagnosis. If you can find a marked test point for it,
most manufacturers have the level there pretty much 'standardised' at about
1v p-p.

Arfa