Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Steve]

Franc Zabkar wrote:

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 16:04:17 GMT, Steve <blackntan@siempremail.com
put finger to keyboard and composed:



Franc Zabkar wrote:



On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 17:15:30 GMT, Steve <blackntan@siempremail.com
put finger to keyboard and composed:





I'm trying to find a replacement LCD for a Toro Vision 2 irrigation
controller. I tried to purchase one through Toro, but they won't sell it
to me.




Have you tried Toro's PartsViewer?
https://lookup2.toro.com/partdex/default.cfm

If so, is the clock module considered to be a serviceable part, or do
Toro expect you to replace the entire PCB?


- Franc Zabkar



The controller's model number doesn't come up in the Toro PartsViewer. I
imagine this model is obsolete. The guy at the irrigation supply shop I
went to looked up the controller in an older parts book, and the display
was a serviceable part early on (Toro part #35-9488). When he tried to
order one for me, he was told that it was no longer available. But he
started checking around and found out that some of the current Toro
controllers are still using the same display, according to the newer
parts breakdowns. So it seems like Toro should be able to sell one. I
think they would rather I bought a whole new controller instead!



Yeah, that's probably it. I'll run your part number past the local
distributor and see what they say.


- Franc Zabkar

Thanks, I sincerely appreciate it!

 

[MacMan85]

On 18 Nov 2004 08:14:16 -0800, mehrar@simplexnet.com (Rajiv Mehra)
wrote:

Hi Richard,

What if my CCFLs are faulty? Don't you think in that case too the
inverter will shutdown?

I just want to be sure before I put some money in a new inverter (some
$60 but even then the exact same part is not available anywhere. They
do have similar inverters which can make 2 CCFLs light up, instead of
4 like mine http://www.lcdpart.com/Products/cda039f.html)

If the tubes light up even briefly they are not faulty - there isn't
really anything to go wrong with a CCFL - it's just a tube with an
electrode at each end filled with gas.

I did see some $7 inverters on All electronics. They might be my only
solution.

Buy one and use it to test the tubes if you are not sure!

Why does only the bottom pair of CCFLs in my monitor have black ends?

I am guessing that only those ccfls were switched on when the monitor
was all right, am I wrong ?

I have no idea - I have a set of tubes I took out of an old 18" screen
- some have black ends, some don't, and they were all switched on when
the screen was in use.

Do I really have to light up all 4 CCFLs? What if I get 2 of those
cheap inverters and light up two CCFls , one at top and other at
bottom. I do understand that the display's brightness might suffer but
having 4 CCFLs sounds like overkill to me. Maybe that is why the CCFLs
at the top never switched on.

Different screens have different requirements for backlighting - Some
use a tube at the top and bottom, mostly laptops I think, some have
tubes equi-spaced behind the panel. You could try using just two tubes
and see if the result is acceptable.

HTH
Richard

 

[Wayne Tiffany]

Are you sure it's not a secondary issue such as the furnace fan running, or
something? You might try setting it on a rubber mat or a towel or something
to isolate it from external sources.

WT

"Grinder" <grinder@no.spam.maam.net> wrote in message
news:qOHod.382120$wV.381185@attbi_s54...

I have an older (10-15 years) Magnavox 19" color TV that is serving me
well. Recently, however, it has developed a sort of nervous tic.
Something within it is vibrating enough that it produces a noticeable
buzzing noise. If I put a dictionary on top of it, the housing is
damped enough to kill the noise, if not the source of the vibration.

When it does appear, the set has always been on for at least an hour.
But it does not always appear when the set has been on. Somewhat
unexpectedly, if the television is turned off, it takes perhaps 15
minutes to stop vibrating.

Does anyone have any speculations about cause and/or remedy?

--

Thank you for your comments and consideration.

 

[Charles Schuler]

"Andreas Ravnestad" <oracel@online.no> wrote in message
news:419ead92$1@proxy....

Hello,

I recently was given a Eizo Flexscan 9400 20" monitor from a friend. The
monitor is a bit old, but the luminence is great, and the colors and
contrast is way ok. However, as the brightness increases, there is a
obvious
"shadow" or "echo", kinda like what you get when you recieve a
delayed/mirrored signal to your tv, causing an odd effect.

Blooming is an effect that causes bright areas to go out of focus and is
caused by low emission. Not at all sure that's what you described, but
thought I'd pass it on to you. If it is low emission, the CRT is wearing
out and perhaps can be improved with a gadget (booster/brightener) that
increases the CRT filament voltage.

 

[[The Jackal ]]

----====(^)====----
O
[ The Jackal ]
"THEOLDONE" <omnis401@Nospam.comcast.net> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:hZudnTZPb9OJZ9fcRVn-gw@comcast.com...

Wiping out our ability to sue

By Cory Franklin. Cory Franklin is an emergency room physician at Stroger
Hospital
Published September 17, 2004

Imagine for a minute a corporation manufacturing a product that has the
ability to render everyday items heat resistant. The company produces
large
amounts of the compound and incorporates it into routine use so that it
becomes a ubiquitous part of the American household.

But there are clouds on the horizon. Indications arise that, after years
of
use, those involved in the manufacture of the compound develop crippling
lung disease and unusual cancers that cause slow, painful death. When
suspicions are confirmed internally, the company makes a fateful
decision--it suppresses the information, concealing it from its own
workers
and the public.

For the next 20 years, millions are exposed to the compound until public
health studies reveal the cause and effect. Ultimately the company, which
grew wealthy and powerful on the strength of the compound, must face
thousands of lawsuits and is forced into bankruptcy. In the meantime,
thousands of people have died, exposed to a product originally thought to
be
safe.

This, of course, is the 20th Century story of asbestos.

But now imagine a twist in the story that never actually happened. What
if,
early on, when it appeared asbestos was a miracle compound, there had been
a
Food and Drug Administration? (Much of this occurred before the FDA was
created.) And what if, before most of those cancers and pulmonary problems
had come to light, the FDA--with the backing of the U.S. government, the
primary consumer of asbestos--declared it to be safe? Is it possible the
public would still be facing asbestos exposure today?

It is important to revisit the asbestos story, with the hypothetical FDA
scenario, because if the Bush administration has its way, there will be no
lawsuits and limited public discovery about the dangers of prescription
drugs and medical devices that initially appear safe but ultimately carry
serious long-term dangers. Lawyers for the U.S. Department of Justice
recently argued in court that if the FDA has approved a product, people
are
not eligible to recover damages. If a designation of safety by the FDA
provides an absolute defense against lawsuits, the government is
essentially
bestowing the Holy Grail on pharmaceutical and medical product companies,
defense lawyers and the insurance industry. No greater gift could come
their
way.

Yet the FDA is not now and never can be the ultimate arbiter of product
safety for a very simple reason--it can never see into the future. At
best,
the FDA can give only a reasonable indication of a product's current
status.
Completely removing the threat of lawsuits leaves the public vulnerable to
all sorts of malfeasance and misfeasance.

Within reason, the government argument has merit. Frivolous litigation
does
discourage companies from introducing new products. Companies forced to
contend with different rules in different states face increased costs and
confusion. Clearly, the public is ill-served if new products cannot be
made
available because of litigation fears. Venal attorneys and greedy
plaintiffs
looking for favorable venues and unjustifiable damages will always be with
us. But all of this simply does not create an imperative for an overly
expansive policy on legal immunity, especially when a government agency,
subject to political winds, has the final word on safety.

If we are meant to understand this new FDA proposal, what Bush officials
are
saying, with an absolutely straight face, is this: "I'm here from the
government and I can assure you that the medical product you depend on is
safe. There's no need to worry."

Strange words coming from a Republican administration. And words that not
even the most devoted pro-business, anti-trial lawyer,
medical-innovation-promoting, diehard Chamber-of-Commerce-loving
capitalist
could really believe.


Copyright Š Sept. 17, 2004, Chicago Tribune


Now their checking the Dangers of using Aspertame and Teflon... and if
they
find that you have put your health and life in jeopardy, you will not be
able to sue the bastards

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 15:21:33 GMT, Steve <blackntan@siempremail.com>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

The controller's model number doesn't come up in the Toro PartsViewer. I
imagine this model is obsolete. The guy at the irrigation supply shop I
went to looked up the controller in an older parts book, and the display
was a serviceable part early on (Toro part #35-9488). When he tried to
order one for me, he was told that it was no longer available. But he
started checking around and found out that some of the current Toro
controllers are still using the same display, according to the newer
parts breakdowns. So it seems like Toro should be able to sell one. I
think they would rather I bought a whole new controller instead!



Yeah, that's probably it. I'll run your part number past the local
distributor and see what they say.


- Franc Zabkar


Thanks, I sincerely appreciate it!

It's available for about AU$25 + tax, ex-stock Sydney, Australia.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Sofie]

Grinder:
....... and..... the model number is? chassis number?
You say this happens when it is turned off? How about unplugged too?
Might be caused by SMPS transformer noise due to high esr electrolytics?
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Grinder" <grinder@no.spam.maam.net> wrote in message
news:qOHod.382120$wV.381185@attbi_s54...

I have an older (10-15 years) Magnavox 19" color TV that is serving me
well. Recently, however, it has developed a sort of nervous tic.
Something within it is vibrating enough that it produces a noticeable
buzzing noise. If I put a dictionary on top of it, the housing is
damped enough to kill the noise, if not the source of the vibration.

When it does appear, the set has always been on for at least an hour.
But it does not always appear when the set has been on. Somewhat
unexpectedly, if the television is turned off, it takes perhaps 15
minutes to stop vibrating.

Does anyone have any speculations about cause and/or remedy?

--

Thank you for your comments and consideration.

 

[H. R. Bob Hofmann]

Grinder <grinder@no.spam.maam.net> wrote in message news:<qOHod.382120$wV.381185@attbi_s54>...

I have an older (10-15 years) Magnavox 19" color TV that is serving me
well. Recently, however, it has developed a sort of nervous tic.
Something within it is vibrating enough that it produces a noticeable
buzzing noise. If I put a dictionary on top of it, the housing is
damped enough to kill the noise, if not the source of the vibration.

When it does appear, the set has always been on for at least an hour.
But it does not always appear when the set has been on. Somewhat
unexpectedly, if the television is turned off, it takes perhaps 15
minutes to stop vibrating.

Does anyone have any speculations about cause and/or remedy?

Are you sure there is nothing else in the building where you live that
could be vibrating at a subsonic frequency that you don't feel that is
triggering something in the TV to vibrate? If the "after turned off"
vibration happens again, what happens if you unplug the set from the
wall? It may be that the heating loosens up something that then
vibrates in response to an outside source.

H. R. (Bob) Hofmann

 

[James Sweet]

"Barry & Nikki" <bearmore@ANTISPAMwhidbey.com> wrote in message
news:yISdnTjQ4JNM4j7cRVn-rQ@whidbeytel.com...

I'm sure its sellers driving up their own prices. I run into the same
scenario with car audio stuff. A stated/obvious "BROKEN" car stereo that I
can use for parts more often then not sells for near retail. Its sickening
what Ebay allows to go on. But then again they are making $$ from it if a
legitimate buyer gets lured in.

It can't all be that, personally I think there's a lot of either idiots who
think they can fix it cheap/free and be good to go, or people who have an
otherwise working unit and can see the one on ebay has the parts they need.
Just look at the prices on computer parts, some of that stuff is sky high.

 

[Wes.]

"Andreas Ravnestad" <oracel@online.no> wrote in message
news:419ead92$1@proxy....

Hello,

I recently was given a Eizo Flexscan 9400 20" monitor from a friend. The
monitor is a bit old, but the luminence is great, and the colors and
contrast is way ok. However, as the brightness increases, there is a obvious
"shadow" or "echo", kinda like what you get when you recieve a
delayed/mirrored signal to your tv, causing an odd effect.

Is there a "standard" procedure to adjust this? As far as I can remember
from school, it might be the beam that is a little offset, and that it just
needs calibration? If anyone can provide some generic hints, I would
appreciate it alot.

(Ps! I have an education and proper tools, but it's been a few years since I
worked with monitors)

Kind regards,
Andreas Ravnestad

Miss matched impedance on the input cables can do this (if your monitor uses a
detachable input cable). I had same problem when I lost the original cable for
one monitor and used a home made replacement. Only after I purchased an
original replacement did the ghosting problem go away.

Wes.

 

[Art]

Sounds like you may be a bit in over your head, it may be best to have a
service estimate done.
"Brendan" <thezfunk@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b40338cc.0411220117.79299e31@posting.google.com...

Ok both of these are my parents and they had a brown out. Both then
refused to work and when taken apart the fuses were blown. After the
second replacement fuse blew I knew something else was wrong. I could
really use the schematics if anyone has them. I can't seem to find
them.

Aside from that I have figured out that the power supplies are
Swithing Mode Power Supplies. Both the boards are virtually identical
in power layout. I did some searching and found out that for these
power supplies when they won't power on and keep blowing fuses you
should test the main transister on there. I pulled them both off to
test them properly and they both game me different readings but I
think they are both shot based on the readings I got. I managed to
find replacements at MCM electronics and ordered them. Any ideas or
help would be appreciated. If this doesn't work should I check the
bridge rectifiers? How do you test those?

Thanks!

 

[Michael Black]

"Gabby Simmonds" (gabby@me.and.only.me) writes:

Hi all,

I'm wondering whether it is possible to convert the Sony ICF-7600D radio =
to receive and play stereo FM broadcasts.

If any of you know whether this is possible, please let me know here on =
this newsgroup.

Thanks!

Some portable shortwave receivers have stereo at the headphone jack; this
gives stereo but doesn't make the company squeeze two speakers into the unit.
So the first thing you need to do is check if yours has that.

if not, then there sure isn't any easy way of making it stereo. You'd
ahve to open it up, add a stereo decoder, and squeeze it into the box.

Michael

 

[Glenn Gundlach]

"Jerry G." <jerryg-consultNOSPAM@ca.inter.net> wrote in message news:<30jahuF2vrbkfU3@uni-berlin.de>...

The only thing I can think of, is one of the units in line has a defective
power supply, or there is a phase difference between the power from one end
of the house to the other, which is very possible.

When you use the AC power to the devices, the outlets in one end of the
house may be on the opposite side of the buss in the power distribution box
where the breakers are. Many homes use a split input from a tapped
transformer that is outside of the house.This is a 3 phase type of power
feed. If you are in North America, and have 220 Volt heating and a 220 Volt
stove, they get this type of voltage by using the opposite sides of the
power buss in relation to each other. They split this to get the 110 ~ 120
Volts to run the standard appliances.

You can do a test for this by running in a long extension cord from one end
of the house to the other, and make sure that all the devices being used are
from the same power source. If this works, then my information here is
correct for your case.

--

Jerry G.
======

I'll buy everything you say except the 3 phase power. I believe you're

referring to 'split phase' which is a center tapped 240 volt feed with
the center being the neutral. This gives you the 120 volt feeds with
some being on the opposite half of the transformer. The 240 units use
the 2 hot feeds. Ihave never run into an average residence using true
3 phase power. 3 phase is used for large loads, usually commercial
establishments.

Your neighbors house MIGHT be on a different pair of phases such that
house one is 120 degrees different from house two. Running connections
betweeen the two buildings would very likely have hum issues.

gg

 

[Alan Horowitz]

"ON5MJ" <my_call_sign@skynet.be>

inductors still for sale or still build ? I would like to
buy two identical roller inductors of about 20 to 30 ľH for an antenna
tuner.

Thnk outside the box. There is more than one way to skin the cat of
variable inductance. In the old days, they configured 2 inductors
next to each other, with one of them able to rotate. Varying the angle
of the dangle, varied the amount of mutal coupling, effectively
changing the inductance. Seems much easier to implement than rollers,
which truly require serious metalworking facilities to make.

It is actually possible to inject reactance of either sign, onto a
line by running a motor with an over/under-excited field current, on
the line. This is used frequently on ships to correct power factor
problems. Probably not facile for a desk-top transmitter.

Really old QST's are available on microfiche and on CD now, I believe.
Look through the 1920's and 1930's. Those were the golden years of
homebrewing. We're fortunate that we live in an epoch when that
word-of-ragchew sort of alchemist knowledge is preserved in robust,
widely-available media.... There's PLENTY of mathematical knowledge
from the Greeks that got lost.

Large public libraries often still hold QSTs & Radio Amateur Handbooks
from decades ago. Find them. Let us know what you find, let us know
what you build!

 

[Thomas P. Gootee]

Michele Smith <michele062@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<41A01627.8BDD3AA@sympatico.ca>...

Is there any place in Canada or North America that has this material? I
can find ribbon cable but not the flexable flat cable used for moving
heads on printers, scanners etc. I need some with the both end
connectors, that will allow a 23 pin connection, and is about a foot
long. Thanks. Mark.

Mark,

Go to

http://www.mouser.com

and do a search for FFC, or Premo-Flex.

Also search for part numbers starting with 538-21039 (12" flat-flex
jumpers). I'm not sure if those already include the connectors, or
not. If not, the connectors are there, too. It also looks like they
only carry 22-pin and 24-pin. But they have links to Molex's website,
where you can probably find anything you want. Amp makes some similar
products.

You could also try looking at:

http://www.em.avnet.com/

And sometimes you can get good search results here, too:

http://www.globalspec.com/

Good luck.

Tom Gootee

http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg

 

[ON5MJ]

Thank you Alan for your suggestions.

1. On variometers, there are subsequent questions: what about flexibility
and size ? A roller coil of about 20 cm long and 10 cm in diameter, having
about 45 turns has an inductance spread between 1 and 35 ľH. To do the same
with a variometer, with the same accuracy, the same inductance and a smooth
trim what do we have to do ? I have no experience in this domain but my
first impression is that the design will not be that simple. May be this
could be THE solution.

2. About old QST's you are right. One of these Christmas I will ask a
complete set of CD's. I also have 15 ARRL handbooks, whith "milésime" spread
between 1945 and 2001, but not yet seen something about variometers.

73 de ON5MJ - Jacques.

 

[Winston]

Bianca wrote:

Anyone who knows a code for

1N4007 1000V 1A Si Sorry!

BC639 ~50V 1A NPN Like BCX56 (BH)
BC640 ~50V 1A PNP Sorry!

in SMD package?

--Winston

 

[mndflmr]

You all have given me food for thought. I will try the extension cord
first, then the filter if this doesn't work. It make be a week or two
before I get back up to the property, but I am looking forward to
trying these things. Thanks guys.
Joe

 

[Seppo Somppi]

Do you anyone have service manual how to adjust those different screen
modes scaling?

B.R
Seppo

 

[LOLLIEN]

service maintenance


--
LOLLIEN