Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

this sounds like a bad laser.

Try Grandata for these, I replaced three so far and no returns yet.
Regards,
-A

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

These had some problems with teeth broken out of a plastic gear, as I
recall. The tracking gain was out of whack due to problems with the pickup.
The pickup and gear needed replacement, then adjustments made. I think there
was also a resistor added to the circuit.

Mark Z.


<tuffhand@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0zurd.700719$8_6.227392@attbi_s04...

I have aYamaha cdc-705 cd changer that skips randomly from one track to
another. It may play 4 minutes of a song and skip or only a minute. I
cleaned the lens but that had no effect. Any help is appreciated.

Thank you.

 

[John Del]

Subject: Convergence still off after replaced STK4277 in Pioneer 6081 tv
From: "fone.freaky" fone.freaky@"a-mail-server".com
Date: 12/1/04 5:39 PM Eastern Standard Time
Message-id: <_Krrd.187465$R05.77732@attbi_s53

The convergence was off, the opinions were to replace the STK4277-SL, which
I did. I replaced with a STK4277 (no sl version)Powered back on, but
convergence is exactly the same- red all wrong around
the outter edges.

The STK is just the amplifier, you need to scope the error correction waveform
inputs that come from the ramp generator section. If that doesn't make sense,
then......

I'm not willing to spend
$500 to repair this tv- I'd rather save my money and buy a HD unit.

........it's time to replace the TV.

John

 

[BWL]

Your TV does NOT have progressive scan.

 

[N Cook]

"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in message
news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_41ae6a2f@fidonet.org...

"N Cook" bravely wrote to "All" (01 Dec 04 18:03:31)
--- on the heady topic of "Peavey Valverb"

The R's are often the same in the ps divider chain. Burnt pigment
tends to toast to a different shade but if you found some original
paint then 16K is still in the ballpark. Replace with flameproof type
for safety. The resistors are used mainly for RC hum filtering with
low DC current present; probably not more than about 2 or 3 mA total.

The dual tube heaters can use 12 volts in series or 6 volts in
parallel so it doesn't matter. The HT caps are encased in wax? Hmmm,
pretty odd for a 1994 circuit. Certainly check the caps for leakage
but beware of the voltage, it really bites! They might simply need a
slow reforming as electros are self-healing, given half a chance.

A*s*i*m*o*v


NC> From: "N Cook" <diverse2@tcp.co.antyspahm.uk

NC> Valve Reverb, 1U case prob. 1994 , no output.
NC> One obvious problem. Seems to be C-R-C-R-C HT ps with
NC> the first R overheated to partially white body and O/C.
NC> Scraped back and remnants measure 4K and 12 K. Comparing
NC> with other MO 1/2 W Rs, band positions on bodies, the band heated to
NC> black was
NC> probably gold and the first 2 Brown then blue , third is gone
totally,
NC> . so maybe 16K .
NC> Supplying HT to 3 valves 12AT7 and 12AX7 so common enough.
NC> Anyone know the correct value of this R, The second one in
NC> the ps drop down chain is 22K and looks fine?

NC> I've not dug out my Avo valve tester yet, as not really a valve-man,
NC> so any ideas for this fault?
NC> The wax around the 3 HV Cs is unmelted but as the 22K is fine at the
NC> moment I suspect a powered-up-only short in middle 47uF,500V electro.

NC> Apparently no separate secondary for heater voltage - seems to use
the
NC> same LV winding used for the transitor power rails - is that so ?

... New computer? But I like my vacuum tubes... They keep me warm.

I've now dismantled.
Wax coloured hot-melt glue, not wax.
What I thought was just an intermediary smoothing stage is actually also a
feed to a 12AT7 via a presumably impedance matching output transformer
to A2 anode and the other via 47R to the A1.
This transformer unpowered resistance seems ok about 2K on high imp
side and 300 on low imp which directly connects to one of the coil
type transducers on the spring-line. So maybe excess current in this valve
hopefully rather than a failing impedance matching transformer.

I've only ever come across piezo transducers on spring-lines before
this is 56R on the send? transformer connected side and 196R on receive end
coils.

 

[NSM]

"N Cook" <diverse2@tcp.co.antyspahm.uk> wrote in message
news:ibKdnSKa3ZAnWjPcRVn-iA@tcp.co.uk...

| The phosphorescent material is coated on a 2 inch by 24 inch metal sheet
| which is connected toi neutral. Surrounding the edge of this isolating it
| from the chassis is thin plastic which I would not like to rely on if
| swapped to live side.
| Was thinking , anyone know what would happen if you connected a 240V / 12
V
| transformer back-to-back to 12V/240V transformer to give an isolated 240V
| supply?

If the device has a double pole switch which controls the panel, no problem.
If not, and the panel is fed via a resistor, split the resistor into two
parts and put one in each lead.

N

 

[Asimov]

"N Cook" bravely wrote to "All" (02 Dec 04 07:38:41)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: HH HA100S, 1970s 5ch stage amp"

NC> From: "N Cook" <diverse2@tcp.co.antyspahm.uk>
NC> Was thinking , anyone know what would happen if you connected a 240V /
NC> 12 V transformer back-to-back to 12V/240V transformer to give an
NC> isolated 240V supply?

Some loss depending on the core size. You likely won't get exactly
240V out under load and the 12 volt lines, if long, will have to be
thick to minimize IR losses. In a pinch it's okay for line isolation.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Power is obtained by current meeting resistance

 

[Asimov]

"N Cook" bravely wrote to "All" (02 Dec 04 07:40:55)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Peavey Valverb"

NC> From: "N Cook" <diverse2@tcp.co.antyspahm.uk>

The R's are often the same in the ps divider chain. Burnt pigment
tends to toast to a different shade but if you found some original
paint then 16K is still in the ballpark. Replace with flameproof type
for safety. The resistors are used mainly for RC hum filtering with
low DC current present; probably not more than about 2 or 3 mA total.

NC> I'm wondering because the R is discoloured like long term over-heating
NC> ie gone white if that middle C is ok and just replace with flameproof
NC> higher wattage 16K

I would beware of replacing with higher wattage since ps dropping
resistors often have a dual purpose as fuses. If something goes wrong,
using a higher wattage resistor may result in worse damage or even a
fire hazard.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Thomas Edison invented the "Light Emitting Resistor"

 

[Jeff]

Listen down the fuel filler neck (use a hose to your ear if you have to) and
have someone turn on the key or try to start it. You will be able to hear the
electric fuel pump module inside the tank activate for about 2 seconds and shut
off.

I have run into problems with the connector to the fuel pump module (on top of
the tank) causing intermittant no start/no fuel on late 90's GM trucks. The
fuel pump assemblies are expensive on those things!

Good Luck,
Jeff

Anyway, now it won't start. Cranks fine and has spark but no fuel. There are
three relays I can see under the hood. Does anyone know which one is the fuel
pump relay ?, or if it is in an alternate location ? None of these three click

 

[NSM]

"(0) -^- (0)" <transistorPLEASE@REMOVEkc.rrTHISTOREPLY.com> wrote in message
news:41b0891b.47796174@news-server.kc.rr.com...
| Posting this for the benefit of others ( Google Groups search etc.)
|
| We purchased a Black and Decker TRO-360 Toaster Oven about 4 months
| ago and recently the toast switch failed. The switch does not stay
| down. According to the reviews at Amazon this is a common problem.
| Many people in the reveiw section for this item are complaining of the
| same problem. ...

Wal-Mart have a $20 Toaster Oven with a mechanical timer that works well!

N

 

[Jumbaliah]

"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@yis.us> wrote in message news:<318hmcF38jrbeU1@individual.net>...

Does seem like a problem with the reel clutch. Bad lubrication prevents it
from switching back and forth properly. They can be fixed, but when you take
them apart they tend to go, "Sproinggg!" and pop parts all over the place.

Mark Z.

When I rotate the clutch manually in a particular direction it does
slide the idler gears into the supply reel. If I change the rotation
on the clutch it just moves the idler gears between the supply and
takeup reels. This test was done with the VCR off. Should the clutch
be able to slide the idler gears into the takeup reel? Does the VCR
have to be in the right 'mode' for this to happen?

I haven't removed the clutch assembly yet but if I was to fix it how
would you recommend I do it? I've read online that you can use rosin
flux to repair clutches. I just wouldn't want to apply fulx to the
wrong spot.

Thanks for the help,
burnboy

 

[Sue D Nim]

B & D toaster ovens are downright dangerous fire hazards and should not be
used. Many CPSC cases open. I've seen several burn up after little use. Most
other B & D tools are also poor quality; so much so, they had to revive the
DeWalt name to get any commercial sales.

 

[Jerry G.]

Could be in the video drive amplifier stages, or the CRT is failing. You
would have to verify this with proper troubleshooting. Take note that there
is no service support for this brand of TV set.

--

Jerry G.
======


"Te" <te@-NOSPAM-pobox.com> wrote in message
news:lGbsd.507184$D%.180319@attbi_s51...
I think its a powersupply problem? But this TV is only 1 year old and the
screen has a terrible green tint. MAJOR GREEN TINT.
Any idea's?

 

[mark]

If the picture tube has a short in it, sometimes a tv service person can
remove it with the right equiptment.


"Te" <te@-NOSPAM-pobox.com> wrote in message
news:lGbsd.507184$D%.180319@attbi_s51...

I think its a powersupply problem? But this TV is only 1 year old and the
screen has a terrible green tint. MAJOR GREEN TINT.
Any idea's?

 

[Fred]

"Sue D Nim" <jcool@softhome.net> wrote in message
news:wRcsd.4$3%5.6762@news.abs.net...

B & D toaster ovens are downright dangerous fire hazards and should not be
used. Many CPSC cases open. I've seen several burn up after little use.
Most
other B & D tools are also poor quality; so much so, they had to revive
the
DeWalt name to get any commercial sales.

Do you mean that DeWalt is actually Black & Decker!??? Thanks very much
for the info! Those sneaky rascals!!!

 

[VMI]

Hi,
FWIW, a link to spares and schematics for HH amps:
http://www.majelectronic.co.uk/index.htm
Cheers,
Marco

 

[Remove _ for valid addres]

In article <isw-B77B03.20435829112004@netnews.comcast.net>, Isaac Wingfield wrote:

I'm trying to fix a laptop computer keyboard. It's made of three layers
of thin plastic -- the upper and lower sheets have silver traces (looks
silkscreened on), and the center sheet is an insulator except that holes
are punched directly under the keys. When you press a key, the traces on
the upper and lower sheets are connected.

Some of the keys don't work and I know exactly where the break is. I
tried bridging the break using some copper tape with a conductive
adhesive, but it didn't work. I think soldering will melt the plastic.

How do I repair this thing?

Does that conductive-ink pen that Radio Shack sells work reliably? I'm
reluctant to drop nearly fifteen dollars if it won't do the job, as a
"new-used" keyboard is only about $50-$60.

I had this problem on an old IBM Thinkpad. The flex cable was folded
at one point with the conductors on the outside, and one went open.

Step 1 was to fix it mechanically. I epoxied a small piece of PCB offcut
to the back so it became rigid. I folded the cable in a different place
(and the other way, so the conductors were on the inside of the fold
which puts them under less stress.)

To bridge the conductors, I recommend the silver-loaded paint that is sold
at car places to repair heated rear windows. It's hard to paint in fine
lines, but one can put too much on and then scrape the excess off.

Works fine now, though I do try not to take the thing apart too often.

Mike.

 

[Richard]

"Sue D Nim" <jcool@softhome.net> wrote in message news:<wRcsd.4$3%5.6762@news.abs.net>...

B & D toaster ovens are downright dangerous fire hazards and should not be
used. Many CPSC cases open. I've seen several burn up after little use. Most
other B & D tools are also poor quality; so much so, they had to revive the
DeWalt name to get any commercial sales.

I had a client place a load of groceries in front of her B&D toaster
oven. One of the sacks turned on the "toast" lever. When she came back
into the kitchen because she smelled something burning her groceries
were going up in flames!

If you ever saw the inside of one of these things you would only run
it on a GFCI or buy another brand.

Richard

 

[LASERandDVDfan]

If the picture tube has a short in it, sometimes a tv service person can
remove it with the right equiptment.

It's an Apex. You get what you pay for.

What makes it worth trying to fix? The cost for repair can easily exceed the
value of the set.

Don't mean to advertise, but I think the original poster should consider
replacing that Apex with a nice Sony. - Reinhart

 

[James Sweet]

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:USesd.750$S33.244@trnddc03...

"Sue D Nim" <jcool@softhome.net> wrote in message
news:wRcsd.4$3%5.6762@news.abs.net...
B & D toaster ovens are downright dangerous fire hazards and should not
be
used. Many CPSC cases open. I've seen several burn up after little use.
Most
other B & D tools are also poor quality; so much so, they had to revive
the
DeWalt name to get any commercial sales.

Do you mean that DeWalt is actually Black & Decker!??? Thanks very much
for the info! Those sneaky rascals!!!

Now that I didn't know! I've actually had reasonable luck with DeWalt stuff,
feels a lot better made than the cheapo B&D.