Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Andy Cuffe]

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 02:26:22 GMT, jpero@sympatico.ca (Jason D.) wrote:

This is true, also make sure the mute circuit isn't prematurely muting
audio.

Cheers,

Wizard

How do I determine if this is the problem? I have yet to see either
set act up.
Andy Cuffe
baltimora@psu.edu

 

[Steve]

James Sweet wrote:

"Steve" <blackntan@siempremail.com> wrote in message
news:ebRmd.1657$Tq6.1470@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...


James Sweet wrote:



"Steve" <blackntan@siempremail.com> wrote in message
news:SGLmd.28701$KJ6.832@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...




I'm trying to find a replacement LCD for a Toro Vision 2 irrigation
controller. I tried to purchase one through Toro, but they won't sell it
to me.

It appears to be a fairly generic clock display. It has 4 full digits w/
colon in the middle, AM and PM to the right of the digits, and along the
bottom are the days. It has legs attached to it, 12 along the top and 12
along the bottom at 0.1 inch separation. It appears that the first, 6th,
7th, and 12th pins in each row serve no electrical function, as they're
cut shorter than the others and do not contact the PCB. The only writing
on this LCD is the number 2391 on the back.

Here's an attempt to draw the display (it looks reasonably correct if
all the characters are the same width):

o o o o o o o o o o o o
-------------------------------
| |
| #### #### #### #### |
| # # # # # # # # # AM |
| #### #### #### #### |
| # # # # # # # # # PM |
| #### #### #### #### |
| |
| SUN MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT |
-------------------------------
o o o o o o o o o o o o

Any help would be greatly appreciated!






It's probably a custom made part, but you could probably adapt a generic
surplus LCD panel to work. What's wrong with the existing one, is it
physically cracked?





The one I have has some segments that quit working. Makes it difficult
to tell a 7 from a 1, etc. I swapped the display from a good unit to
verify that it was the display that was at fault as opposed to the
driving circtuitry. I also suspect that it might be a proprietary part,
but I'm hoping to find that I'm wrong!




Any chance it uses the little conductive rubber strips to connect the
display panel itself to the board? Those occasionally get contaminated or
misaligned and cause dead segments. It's pretty rare for the display panel
itself to fail unless the driver put out DC and caused electrolosis damage,
could happen though.



No, it just has all the pins attached along the edges of the panel.

They're sort of crimped on, then covered with a clear layer of what
appears to be some type of hard conformal coating. I've noticed that
sometimes I can get a bad segment to come on by tweaking the display a
little, but only while applying some force. It appears to be bad
connections, probably where the pins connect to the panel. The pins are
soldered into the PCB, so I know the problem's not there.

 

[Steve]

BOB URZ wrote:

Steve wrote:



I'm trying to find a replacement LCD for a Toro Vision 2 irrigation
controller. I tried to purchase one through Toro, but they won't sell it
to me.

It appears to be a fairly generic clock display. It has 4 full digits w/
colon in the middle, AM and PM to the right of the digits, and along the
bottom are the days. It has legs attached to it, 12 along the top and 12
along the bottom at 0.1 inch separation. It appears that the first, 6th,
7th, and 12th pins in each row serve no electrical function, as they're
cut shorter than the others and do not contact the PCB. The only writing
on this LCD is the number 2391 on the back.

Here's an attempt to draw the display (it looks reasonably correct if
all the characters are the same width):

o o o o o o o o o o o o
-------------------------------
| |
| #### #### #### #### |
| # # # # # # # # # AM |
| #### #### #### #### |
| # # # # # # # # # PM |
| #### #### #### #### |
| |
| SUN MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT |
-------------------------------
o o o o o o o o o o o o

Any help would be greatly appreciated!



Check out Jamco and Digikey.

Bob



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I tried DigiKey with no luck, but I haven't tried Jamco yet. Thanks for
the suggestion.

 

[Rajiv Mehra]

Hi Richard,

Thanks for the response.

You seem to be pretty knowledgeable so can I ask you some questions?.



First

What if my CCFLs are faulty? Don't you think in that case too the
inverter will shutdown?



I just want to be sure before I put some money in a new inverter (some
$60 but even then the exact same part is not available anywhere. They
do have similar inverters which can make 2 CCFLs light up, instead of
4 like mine http://www.lcdpart.com/Products/cda039f.html)



I did see some $7 inverters on All electronics. They might be my only
solution.



Second

Why does only the bottom pair of CCFLs in my monitor have black ends?

I am guessing that only those ccfls were switched on when the monitor
was all right, am I wrong ?



Last:

Do I really have to light up all 4 CCFLs? What if I get 2 of those
cheap inverters and light up two CCFls , one at top and other at
bottom. I do understand that the display's brightness might suffer but
having 4 CCFLs sounds like overkill to me. Maybe that is why the CCFLs
at the top never switched on.



Thanks for your time!



Regards,

Rajiv Mehra



PS: BTW there are inverters out there which take 5 volts (as the
supply) instead of 12 vdc. I saw them on some websites. One can be
seen here http://www.chisam.com.tw/p3.htm


MacMan85 <macman85@mewgull.com> wrote in message news:<pf1mp0dap91lg9g8nkp4kqt1foccqp3oo9@4ax.com>...

AFAIK All inverters use 12V as the supply. All TFT screens I've seen
have all the lamps switched on all the time - the brightness signal
alters the intensity of all lamps, not switches some of them off. Of
the four connection wires, one should be 12V, one Ground, one switches
the tubes on if ..........

 

[John Gill]

Jason:
I have replaced a few of those flybacks on the G810 monitors.
I have always use the Panasonic transformer and have had no
problems. I do understand that some of the other non-Panasonic
flybacks for this monitor have had problems.
You do realize that the G2 connection is a very high impedence circuit
and most DMM's will overload it when you take a measurement. I always
use a 100-to-1 probe on my DMM when I measure G2 voltage.
Is the high voltage good (approx 28-30KV) ? and the G1 voltage ?
Heater voltage OK ?
Have a nice day....
John

 

[James Sweet]

No, it just has all the pins attached along the edges of the panel.
They're sort of crimped on, then covered with a clear layer of what
appears to be some type of hard conformal coating. I've noticed that
sometimes I can get a bad segment to come on by tweaking the display a
little, but only while applying some force. It appears to be bad
connections, probably where the pins connect to the panel. The pins are
soldered into the PCB, so I know the problem's not there.

Bummer, sounds like your initial diagnosis of a bad display is definitly
correct, it'd be worth checking surplus places like All Electronics, HSC,
Alltronics, and a number of similar places.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 17:15:30 GMT, Steve <blackntan@siempremail.com>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

I'm trying to find a replacement LCD for a Toro Vision 2 irrigation
controller. I tried to purchase one through Toro, but they won't sell it
to me.

Have you tried Toro's PartsViewer?
https://lookup2.toro.com/partdex/default.cfm

If so, is the clock module considered to be a serviceable part, or do
Toro expect you to replace the entire PCB?


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[NSM]

<su-texas@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:22801-419CAB8B-286@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net...

| Replacement Adapters For Printers
....
| On the net last night, I found a site where they offer a replacement
| adapter, which is supposed to be compatible with many HP & Canon
| printers, ... but I can't find that site again today.
....
| Is it OK to use the smaller voltage replacement adapter (22V), which has
| more Amp output, for these printers?

If it was me, for testing only, I would use a good power supply such as

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5732116430

This will give you controlled voltage and current, and you can check that
the draw is correct. Pick up a cheap universal adaptor, one with 5 or 6
plugs that can plug into most anything you may have, and use just the cord
from it and you will be able to test most anything.

You'll need to correct adaptor to use the printer, however.

NM

 

[WEBPA]

From other posts it looks like APC UPSes eat the lead acid batteries
that are in them over a short period of time.

I own an old APC SU2200NET SmartUPS. It has 4 - 12V 17Ah lead acid
batteries conneted in series which called an RBC11.

Well my UPS stopped working one day and when I opened the battery bay
the 4 lead acid batteries had wollen to take up all the space in the
battery bay. I had to drill all the rivets and take apart the steel
frame that made up the bay that the lead acid batteries were in to get
the 4 swollen lead acid batteries our of the UPS.

After some reseach on the Usenet newsgroups I found that this was in
fact a VERY common problem!

My solution was to take apart the top portion of the UPS and remove
the Black and Red 18 Gauge wire that goes the the batteries and run
some new 18 Gauge wire out the side of the APC SU2200NET SmartUPS
through a hold I drilled on the case.

I now have my 4 - 12V 17Ah lead acid batteries connected in series
external to the UPS where I can see them and maybe even connect some
sensors to them (Temperatrue, pressure switch, etc...) to avoid this
in the future (Though I am not sure how)

I hope the APC SU2200NET SmartUPS does not kill my next set of 4 - 12V
17Ah lead acid batteries!!!!


The charger is most likely set higher than it ought to be. 13.5 vdc is

correct, IIRC.

But you may have a MUCH bigger problem. You stated that your out-board
batteries were "...connected in series." A series connection of 4 twelve volt
batteries makes a 48 volt battery. Your charger cannot charge this, and your
inverter will be destroyed if it ever tries to assume a load. Or...you mean
the 4 twelve volt batteries are connected in parallel. Much different.
webpa

 

[Chaos Master]

James Sweet [jamessweet@hotmail.com] wrote to us:

The printer will only draw the current that it needs, as long as the voltage
is close and the adapter can supply at least as much current it should be
fine. I would guess that the printers they list as compatible have been
tested and work safely with the universal adapter. I personally would prefer
to have the original though and with as cheap as printers are these days,
it'd have to be a really nice printer to consider spending money on an AC
adapter in the first place.

AFAIK, most ink jet printers run from +24V or +30V. I don't know about
laser printers.

[]s
--
Chaos MasterŽ, posting from somewhere near Porto Alegre, Brazil.
"It's not what it seems, not what you think. No, I must be dreaming."

http://marreka.blogspot.com --> news, hotter than high-power transistors!

 

[Steve]

Franc Zabkar wrote:

On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 17:15:30 GMT, Steve <blackntan@siempremail.com
put finger to keyboard and composed:



I'm trying to find a replacement LCD for a Toro Vision 2 irrigation
controller. I tried to purchase one through Toro, but they won't sell it
to me.



Have you tried Toro's PartsViewer?
https://lookup2.toro.com/partdex/default.cfm

If so, is the clock module considered to be a serviceable part, or do
Toro expect you to replace the entire PCB?


- Franc Zabkar

The controller's model number doesn't come up in the Toro PartsViewer. I
imagine this model is obsolete. The guy at the irrigation supply shop I
went to looked up the controller in an older parts book, and the display
was a serviceable part early on (Toro part #35-9488). When he tried to
order one for me, he was told that it was no longer available. But he
started checking around and found out that some of the current Toro
controllers are still using the same display, according to the newer
parts breakdowns. So it seems like Toro should be able to sell one. I
think they would rather I bought a whole new controller instead!

 

[Bert]

Hello all
Need some help on above printer.
When going to the icon close to the time and then to printer settings, from
there to utility and then to ink cartridge replacement.
Only the black is coming out, not the colour.
Did clean the complete printer.
All the gears did drop on the table but everything is back as it was.
It seems to me that when the printhead is in the park position, then should
move to the middle, there is a lever behind the heads which is preventing it
from moving the heads to the middle.
Anyone know what to do on this?
Thank you very much
Bert

 

[Phillip Remaker]

This is a longshot, but:

I had an older SCSI drive once which would not burn a CD after a while.
Updating the firmware solved the problem. My theory was the optical
components drift out of spec with age, and the newer firmware corrected for
that. Or maybe it was just media compatability.

So see if there is newer firmware.

Once burned, it reads the burned discs fine? I think that ll it does when
you insert it is to read the ATIP...

 

[Jerry G.]

I would think that something is wearing out in the drive. It may be that
with use, that something became out of calibration, or there is something
that is failing.

In this case I would seriously consider replacing the drive. The newer
drives are also improved. Their reliability is better, and they are a lot
faster working than the ones from a few years ago.

--

Jerry G.
======


"Sunny" <sunny@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:CXznd.36603$rc.2186403@news20.bellglobal.com...

Matshita CW-7503 8x SCSI CD burner.

When a blank disc is inserted, the busy LED comes on and the drive makes
odd rattling sounds while it thinks about the disc. It has done this since
new, but originally the busy LED and rattling lasted 10-15 seconds. Over
time it has gradually increased to the point the drive now takes 10-15
minutes (!) to accept a blank disc. I've tried most brands of media with
no change in symptoms. The drive accepts non-blank media (pressed or
burned) within 15 seconds, i.e. the problem is specific to blank discs.
Once it finally accepts the blank (it always does eventually), there are
no issues during the burning process and the burned discs work just fine.

I opened the drive and found a piece of thin, clear plastic under the
laser head assembly (covering the ribbon cable attachment point) had
warped and was catching on a protrusion moulded into the frame, which
prevented the head from travelling to the outer edge of the disc. I
unscrewed the plastic, turned it over, replaced it, then confirmed the
head was now able to travel smoothly between the bump-stops at either
extreme. While I was there, I cleaned the lens, head rails, and worm gear
with 99% isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip, and lightly re-lubed the rails and
gear with white lithium grease.

All this made absolutely no difference to the drive's behavior - which is
not surprising since the blank media information is stored on the inner
edge of the disc, whereas the problem I corrected prevented the laser from
reaching the outer edge - so should only have manifested when reading or
writing full discs. The head definitely was, and still is, able to travel
smoothly to the inner bump-stop.

Any and all suggestions appreciated...

TIA

Sunny

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"Sunny" <sunny@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:CXznd.36603$rc.2186403@news20.bellglobal.com...

Matshita CW-7503 8x SCSI CD burner.

When a blank disc is inserted, the busy LED comes on and the drive makes
odd rattling sounds while it thinks about the disc. It has done this since
new, but originally the busy LED and rattling lasted 10-15 seconds. Over
time it has gradually increased to the point the drive now takes 10-15
minutes (!) to accept a blank disc. I've tried most brands of media with
no change in symptoms. The drive accepts non-blank media (pressed or
burned) within 15 seconds, i.e. the problem is specific to blank discs.
Once it finally accepts the blank (it always does eventually), there are
no issues during the burning process and the burned discs work just fine.

I opened the drive and found a piece of thin, clear plastic under the
laser head assembly (covering the ribbon cable attachment point) had
warped and was catching on a protrusion moulded into the frame, which
prevented the head from travelling to the outer edge of the disc. I
unscrewed the plastic, turned it over, replaced it, then confirmed the
head was now able to travel smoothly between the bump-stops at either
extreme. While I was there, I cleaned the lens, head rails, and worm gear
with 99% isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip, and lightly re-lubed the rails and
gear with white lithium grease.

All this made absolutely no difference to the drive's behavior - which is
not surprising since the blank media information is stored on the inner
edge of the disc, whereas the problem I corrected prevented the laser from
reaching the outer edge - so should only have manifested when reading or
writing full discs. The head definitely was, and still is, able to travel
smoothly to the inner bump-stop.

Any and all suggestions appreciated...

TIA

Sunny

I think you've done about all you can. Time to replace the drive.

Mark Z.

 

[Jerry G.]

Going from my experience from being in the service business, I would say NO.
You would have no idea of any other damage that is internal to the unit. You
also do not know if there was any internal tampering, thus making things
more difficult and expensive to service.

--

Jerry G.
======


"Isildur's Bane" <ffokcufesaelP@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jqjup0d7f5ts3lkp7fip5e7pnsem9telf4@4ax.com...

I need some advice here. My old Palm 3 is going to the garbage soon
(dead), and I was wondering if it was worth purchasing a broken Ipaq
from eBay? You know the ones I'm talking about - they look like
someone drive a pen almost through the body (a star crack). Usually,
the LCD and digitizer are completely destroyed. I did a bit of
checking and those digitizer/LCD replacement panels are expensive
($99.00 and up).

Is it worth purchasing one and then buying an expensive replacement
panel?

-IB

``This game lends itself to certain abuses.''
-- Bill Watterson's Calvin

 

[Fred]

Thanks, Jim. I have made slow but sure progress getting the info but still
a ways to go. I'll definitely post whatever I find out about my own camera.

"James Horn" <jimhorn@svn.net> wrote in message
news:10pq3grgc84ku5a@corp.supernews.com...

Fred -

Thanks for trying to find service information here. I've got a D460Z and
a Canon A20 I could work on (EE and optical work for 30 years) if I had
similar information. Lots of us out here are hoping you find a source.
Such success would be terrific news for us all.

Jim Horn, WB9SYN/6

 

[Fred]

GOOD IDEA!! B^)

"RWM" <RWM@RWMann.com> wrote in message news:419BFD97.3090204@RWMann.com...

When you call, make sure to tell them your battery theory ... AND MAKE
SURE TO SPEAK IN ALL CAPS.

Fred wrote:

Holy smokes, Mike!!! Thanks very much! I will get on the phone with the
boys down at Olympus in the morning as axe why in THEE hell they didn't
tell
me about the parts manual.

Thanks, again!

"Mike" <e@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:E_Qmd.1645$Tq6.1072@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...


"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:IHPmd.6999$GV5.2840@trnddc04...


LOL! Yes, I've used that before myself!




Ok Fred here you go. The problem you have is either a blown fuse or the


DC


to DC converter.
According to my information you *can* purchase a parts manual from
Olympus
then once you have the camera apart cross reference the fuse in the C700
with any of the large electronic catalog houses.
KEY Electronics seems to be the source used. I hope this helps you a


little.


Mike

 

[NSM]

"Mike Kennedy" <mikek400@R3MOVE.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:HINnd.4730$Qh3.2312@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
| you can get a good burner these days for ~ $50. Sounds like time to
replace.

You should be able to get a good DVD burner for that - or less.

N

 

[Sunny]

NSM wrote:

"Mike Kennedy" <mikek400@R3MOVE.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:HINnd.4730$Qh3.2312@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
| you can get a good burner these days for ~ $50. Sounds like time to
replace.

You should be able to get a good DVD burner for that - or less.

N

Yes, thanks - I understand my options, but I have good reasons for
preferring repair if possible.

Good SCSI CD-R drives are not cheap, and SCSI DVD-R drives don't seem to
be available at any price.

I purchased an IDE DVD-R a couple of months ago, but after many
frustrating hours gave up on getting it to work properly in my system -
one IDE device in an otherwise all-SCSI workstation was not a happy
combination. The IDE DVD-R works fine in my other half's IDE-only system.