Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[NSM]

"David" <privateguy@telstra.com> wrote in message
news:KUQnd.43388$K7.3727@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
|
....
| battery is taken off the camera. On the PCB there is a lithium battery
| which is measuring 2.6v (I'm not sure if that is the voltage that it
| should be)

3 volts I believe - tried a new one? That's the first thing to try.

N

 

[jakdedert]

Jerry G. wrote:

Going from my experience from being in the service business, I would
say NO. You would have no idea of any other damage that is internal
to the unit. You also do not know if there was any internal
tampering, thus making things more difficult and expensive to service.

In addition, even broken PDA's are selling for a significant percentage of

'used-working' prices. I don't know who's buying up all those broken PDA's,
digicams and laptops on ebay, but I'm astounded at the prices they're
commanding.

jak

 

[Triffid]

Joe wrote:

I posted this to the laptop groups and, as you can see from the
followups, didn't get any replies. Anyone have any idea about this
very common problem with HP laptops?

HP laptops have an atrocious reputation. Owners who are experiencing the
reasons for this are best advised to cut their losses in favour of a
Toshiba or IBM replacement.

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 22:07:53 GMT, Joe < alakran@HATusers.easynews.com
wrote:


I've been reading the forums at HP and noticed that there are
literally dozens of threads with the same problem:
One day the laptop will not boot, fan will spin up for a few seconds,
Cd will spin up(this is variable), always no video(external or
internal), sometimes the floppy will light up, the hd will usually
spin up but show minimal activity at boot up.
Some people notice that the lappy will freeze at random while in the
OS and then fail to restart, while others will not be able to cold
boot, but the symptoms, especially the fan and video, will always be
the same. I always read those, hoping it would never happen to
me....but now it has and now to another one owned by a colleague.

Now in my case(a GF), I *can* get mine to boot.....sometimes....by
stripping it right down and booting it an external monitor(Also a
couple of times to the lcd, so I know that and the inverter are OK).I
can't get the 2nd Xe3-GC one to boot at all. Also tried plugging in
all peripherals, so they are OK
It also booted a few times after I'd reassembled it, but celebrations
were premature.....

Tried reseating everything, seems to make no difference.
Replaced the hdd and the right angle connector so they are ok and of
course, I tried one stick of ram and different ram and the only thing
I noticed was that I do get the "no ram" error beeps.

Finally, I took the MB out, desoldered the Cmos battery and
reconnected it agfter 20 minutes....nada.

My guess(hope) is a dodgy PCA to MB connector(on either side), so I'm
about to try cleaning with 95% alcohol, but I fear it may be a failing
component on the MB or an internittent track somewhere in the
(integrated) PSU circuitry. I'm pretty sure a faulty hdd or anything
that could cause a high current drain could cause exactly the same
problem. Strangely enough, I managed to fix a similar fault on a
Toshiba about a year ago by reflowing the solder around the AC socket.

Surely with this many reports of an identical problem, something must
have come to light. I've just about given up on mine and will sell the
parts on to buy a new (non HP) lappy, but thought I'd ask here as a
last resort.


Now, the inevitable answer from HP is to "buy a new motherboard" and
the cheapest I've seen are $450. Since, for little more, I can buy a
new Toshiba Celeron, that doesn't make much sense


Take off the Hat to reply......

Anybody? Mr Ikenfixit? You MUST have come across this problem. The
forums are full of posts with the same problem. With all the different
omnibooks and Xe's I'd say I've seen hundreds of em. Anyway, I'm fed
up with wasting time on this thing(but it has been tempting after the
succesful repair of the Toshiba) and will probably sell the lcd and
some other parts on. Is there a market for this? Put the money towards
buying a new one....but it won't be an HP, that's for sure. There's a
design flaw here somewhere and I guess it won't come out on usenet.


Looks like I'm reduced to replying to myself, but I've worked on the
MBs a bit and this might help some of the many XE3/Pavilion owners out
there with the same problem, which is, in short, green light on, Fan
for 5 seconds, HD activity, CD spin up, but doesn't get to bios. Very
similar to the notorious Presario fault .
I resoldered the ac power sockets and thoroughly cleaned all the plugs
sockets and ribbon connectors. I then cleaned the entire motherboard
with an electronic solvent
Switched on and both the GF and GC booted up!! But *why* would the
ground on the ac socket prevent them booting up on battery?
Sadly, the GF still won't boot up 100%.....maybe 50%, but, insanely, I
*can* get it to boot up every time by firmly grabbing the left hand
rear of the case, or by pressing on the metal shield under the MB near
the bios/ram, so I'm pretty sure this is a ground problem

Really would like to find a circuit diagram.schematic for these.

 

[Andy Cuffe]

On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 18:32:49 -0500, Sunny <sunny@nospam.net> wrote:

Yes, thanks - I understand my options, but I have good reasons for
preferring repair if possible.

Good SCSI CD-R drives are not cheap, and SCSI DVD-R drives don't seem to
be available at any price.

I purchased an IDE DVD-R a couple of months ago, but after many
frustrating hours gave up on getting it to work properly in my system -
one IDE device in an otherwise all-SCSI workstation was not a happy
combination. The IDE DVD-R works fine in my other half's IDE-only system.

IDE should work fine for DVD recording as long as you have UDMA.

If you're using Windows, make sure DMA mode is enabled for the DVD-R
drive. It's usually set to PIO only by default. This will result in
HEAVY CPU usage and buffer under runs. The setting is in the device
manager under either the drive's properties, or the IDE channel's
properties depending on the version of Windows.
Andy Cuffe
baltimora@psu.edu

 

[LanceBro]

usually these radios need a code...its should be in your manual that came with
the car...if you lost the manual and code then your dealer will help you...

that's the only way....it's anti theft protection.....

good luck

 

[Jerry G.]

This type of cable is usually from the original manufacture of the device
you want to service. If you want to have your own that is custom made (like
the rest do), you can call any of the major wire manufactures, and they can
give you a quotation. There will be minimum, and also this is not cheap to
set up.

Belden Wire & Cable
http://www.belden.com/



--

Jerry G.
======


"Michele Smith" <michele062@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41A01627.8BDD3AA@sympatico.ca...

Is there any place in Canada or North America that has this material? I
can find ribbon cable but not the flexable flat cable used for moving
heads on printers, scanners etc. I need some with the both end
connectors, that will allow a 23 pin connection, and is about a foot
long. Thanks. Mark.

 

[LASERandDVDfan]

If you're using Windows, make sure DMA mode is enabled for the DVD-R
drive. It's usually set to PIO only by default. This will result in
HEAVY CPU usage and buffer under runs.

Don't forget, use an 80 conductor UDMA cable instead of a standard 40 conductor
IDE cable, especially if the drive is expected to run higher than UDMA33 (and
even then, you'd still want a UDMA cable). - Reinhart

 

[TCS]

On 22 Nov 2004 04:16:51 GMT, LASERandDVDfan <laseranddvdfan@aol.com> wrote:

If you're using Windows, make sure DMA mode is enabled for the DVD-R
drive. It's usually set to PIO only by default. This will result in
HEAVY CPU usage and buffer under runs.

Don't forget, use an 80 conductor UDMA cable instead of a standard 40 conductor
IDE cable, especially if the drive is expected to run higher than UDMA33 (and
even then, you'd still want a UDMA cable). - Reinhart

udma33 requires the same 40 conductor cable and drives that are faster than that
are rare. 80 conductor cables are only required for udma5 or udma 6 (100, 133)

 

[meirman]

Thanks for all the help.

I finally realized I was less concerned about the flashlight I have,
as nice as it is, but more concerned about how to handle battery leaks
in expensive or hard-to-replace electronic devices where batteries
have leaked, and the battery springs or contacts don't conduct
electricity anymore. Some of these are hard to disassemble, as well.

What do you guys do about those things?


In alt.home.repair on 28 Oct 2004 13:57:01 GMT Jim Yanik
<jyanik@abuse.gov.> posted:

conase@aol.com.mado (Conase) wrote in
news:20041027211440.08561.00000733@mb-m22.aol.com:

I was the poster who recommended the 50/50 water and vinegar as told
to me by the customer support at one of the leading battery makers -
forget which one.

I had a battery - alkaline - leak in my radio.
As has been said, battery "acid" is a misnomer these days.
The "alkaline" battery "acid" was neutralized or whatever term you
want to put on it by the vinegar and water mix.

Don't believe me, call Eveready or RayOVac or any other maker.

I lucked out with the MagLites I've had when the batteries leaked and
swelled and damaged the units.
Mag replaced them for FREE.

I was prepared to remove the batteries and use vinegar and water, but
found I could not even get the batteries out after filling the barrel
with WD 40 and Kroil when the WD did not work.

So forget the vinegar and water thing.

I use straight household vinegar,it's only 5% acid anyways.
I rinse with water,though.

Meirman

If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"Brendan" <thezfunk@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b40338cc.0411220117.79299e31@posting.google.com...

Ok both of these are my parents and they had a brown out. Both then
refused to work and when taken apart the fuses were blown. After the
second replacement fuse blew I knew something else was wrong. I could
really use the schematics if anyone has them. I can't seem to find
them.

Aside from that I have figured out that the power supplies are
Swithing Mode Power Supplies. Both the boards are virtually identical
in power layout. I did some searching and found out that for these
power supplies when they won't power on and keep blowing fuses you
should test the main transister on there. I pulled them both off to
test them properly and they both game me different readings but I
think they are both shot based on the readings I got. I managed to
find replacements at MCM electronics and ordered them. Any ideas or
help would be appreciated. If this doesn't work should I check the
bridge rectifiers? How do you test those?

Thanks!

With respect, vcr and tv/vcr switchmode supplies are no place for newbies.
Besides, at this point, even if the switcher transistors are bad, there's
likely other parts bad a well. I strongly recommend professional service or
replacement. If you throw them away cut the cords off first.

Mark Z.

 

[Ian Malcolm]

Art wrote:

Sparks inside the crt are not normal, probably the source of your problem.
"Bobby Villamor" <bobbyv@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:F1fod.301087$nl.261429@pd7tw3no...

Hello everyone.
I am working on a 27in. toshiba color tv model CF27G50. Original trouble
symptom is that
when I push the power button on, the relay clicks supplying power and I
could hear the high
voltage attempting to build up then just about a second the relay clicks
turning the ac supply off.
I have tried disconnecting each low voltage power loads to check which
circuit or component
causes the relay to turn off almost instantly until I reach the high
voltage
section.
When I turn the power button on I see some sparks in the picture tube
electron gun - somewhere
around the filament / cathode area, then the relay turns off.
When I remove the high voltage cap from the picture tube the relay remains
on already, high voltage
is produced but the weird thing is that when I push the power button on
the
pcb or attempt to touch
any ground connection: wire, heat sink, etc., a high voltage arc jumps
from
the ground to my
finger before my finger touches it and I receive a mild electric shock.
Looks like excessive high voltage? But why do arc jumps even when a ground
terminal is touched?
I tried connecting in parallel the two snubber capacitors - those
connected
across h.o.t. with a
capacitor of smaller value but no effect.
I would appreciate any hint, comments or help regarding this problem.
Thank you very much.
Bobby

Ive seen a few like this. Try removing the tube base board then take a
cler plastic 12" ruler and hook a testlead from the end of the ruler to
the ground strap on the tube. Make sure theat no part of the chassis is
within 6" of the tube pins. Switch on, and holding the ruler by the end
without the wire, bring the wire near then right up to the pins of the
tube neck board. If it starts to arc back away and switch off, the tube
has leaked and is gassey. BER but save the good chassis.

The other common cause of arcing in and around the tube neck is if the
ground pin of the Screen/Focus unit on the side of the LOPT is
disconnected. Symptoms are, tube base board arcs accross spark gaps
even if removed. No arc from tube (may 'fizz' a bit if the EHT is
excessive). Close inspection reveals arcing under LOPT. You may be
able to mend the broken pin, but LOPT replacement is reccomended if you
cant make a good joint onto the remaining pin.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- &
[dot]=.
*Warning* SPAM TRAP set in header, Use email address in sig. if you must.

 

[Fred]

Good for you! I also try to get service docs when I buy something, but
unfortunately Olympus doesn't make them available to anyone outside the
company.

"William Graham" <weg9@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ZZTld.40579$5K2.35694@attbi_s03...

"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
news:5uNld.85524$E93.5211@clgrps12...

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:_pLld.3970$N_5.1750@trnddc03...
...
| Nothing irks me more than these big companies selling expensive items
and
| then not making service documentation available to the purchaser.
Smacks
of
| monopoly to me.

I agree, and that's why I usually require the salesman to dig one up for
me.....The last new car I bought came with a complete factory service
manual
because I did that, by the way.........

 

[Mike]

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:IHPmd.6997$GV5.4854@trnddc04...

"Mike" <e@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:vXJmd.28632$KJ6.27307@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...

So what do you have to lose sending the camera to Olympus?
$155 and the high probability that the same problem will occur again
Yet you think that you can repair the camera and solve the problem?

Yep. Sure can -- if I have the correct service info. I do board-level T/S
and repair on similar products day in and day out. Of course, I generally
have schematics or at least access to a service tech on the phone --
something Olympus doesn't offer, even for a fee.

I suspect that IF you could get the part you would be bitching about
the
price of the parts(s) needed

Actually, I'm not looking for replacement parts yet -- just service
documentation or advice from others who may have run across this problem
before. Chances are it's a bad connection, capacitor or other minor item I
can locate elsewhere.

Here's a story for you.... My car failed to start awhile back and the
garage
isolated it to the computer. They quoted me $700 for a re-built computer.
Since I didn't have anything to lose, I took it home, took it apart and
found that a capacitor had shorted through. This one was fairly obvious
due
to the smell and discoloration. I took it out and matched it up at the
local electronics parts house with an 11-cent capacitor and saved quite a
bit of money. Yes, it took me a few hours and some running around, but
I'm
not in the for-profit business when home repairs are concerned.

And what would you say IF you could get the service info and the part(s)
but
could not make the adjustments, would you demand Olympus refund the
part(s)
cost?

Jeez Louise... get a grip , Mike. I'm just looking for service
documentation! Then I'll worry about parts. I doubt I would buy any
parts
from Olympus except mechanical items. And, no, I don't usually go around
"demanding" anything. That's a good way to alienate people.

My only point Fred was to attempt to explain to you why Olympus does not

make some service information available. The fact is, this is not an
uncommon practice in the photo industry and especially now with the advent
of digital cameras. Here is an example; a friend owns a camera repair shop
and has been an authorized Nikon and Canon warranty station for 12 to 15
years. Nikon has just allowed him to purchase parts ONLY after his tech
attended a 5 day class.
If I can find a source for a service manual I'll post it here. I don't
service Digital's.....thankfully.











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[Mike]

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:IHPmd.6999$GV5.2840@trnddc04...

LOL! Yes, I've used that before myself!

Ok Fred here you go. The problem you have is either a blown fuse or the DC
to DC converter.
According to my information you *can* purchase a parts manual from Olympus
then once you have the camera apart cross reference the fuse in the C700
with any of the large electronic catalog houses.
KEY Electronics seems to be the source used. I hope this helps you a little.
Mike


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[Steve]

James Sweet wrote:

"Steve" <blackntan@siempremail.com> wrote in message
news:SGLmd.28701$KJ6.832@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...


I'm trying to find a replacement LCD for a Toro Vision 2 irrigation
controller. I tried to purchase one through Toro, but they won't sell it
to me.

It appears to be a fairly generic clock display. It has 4 full digits w/
colon in the middle, AM and PM to the right of the digits, and along the
bottom are the days. It has legs attached to it, 12 along the top and 12
along the bottom at 0.1 inch separation. It appears that the first, 6th,
7th, and 12th pins in each row serve no electrical function, as they're
cut shorter than the others and do not contact the PCB. The only writing
on this LCD is the number 2391 on the back.

Here's an attempt to draw the display (it looks reasonably correct if
all the characters are the same width):

o o o o o o o o o o o o
-------------------------------
| |
| #### #### #### #### |
| # # # # # # # # # AM |
| #### #### #### #### |
| # # # # # # # # # PM |
| #### #### #### #### |
| |
| SUN MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT |
-------------------------------
o o o o o o o o o o o o

Any help would be greatly appreciated!





It's probably a custom made part, but you could probably adapt a generic
surplus LCD panel to work. What's wrong with the existing one, is it
physically cracked?



The one I have has some segments that quit working. Makes it difficult

to tell a 7 from a 1, etc. I swapped the display from a good unit to
verify that it was the display that was at fault as opposed to the
driving circtuitry. I also suspect that it might be a proprietary part,
but I'm hoping to find that I'm wrong!

 

[Fred]

Holy smokes, Mike!!! Thanks very much! I will get on the phone with the
boys down at Olympus in the morning as axe why in THEE hell they didn't tell
me about the parts manual.

Thanks, again!

"Mike" <e@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:E_Qmd.1645$Tq6.1072@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:IHPmd.6999$GV5.2840@trnddc04...
LOL! Yes, I've used that before myself!



Ok Fred here you go. The problem you have is either a blown fuse or the
DC
to DC converter.
According to my information you *can* purchase a parts manual from Olympus
then once you have the camera apart cross reference the fuse in the C700
with any of the large electronic catalog houses.
KEY Electronics seems to be the source used. I hope this helps you a
little.
Mike


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Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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[James Sweet]

"Rajiv Mehra" <mehrar@simplexnet.com> wrote in message
news:b2ae6577.0411180814.332004@posting.google.com...

Hi Richard,

Thanks for the response.

You seem to be pretty knowledgeable so can I ask you some questions?.



First

What if my CCFLs are faulty? Don't you think in that case too the
inverter will shutdown?



I just want to be sure before I put some money in a new inverter (some
$60 but even then the exact same part is not available anywhere. They
do have similar inverters which can make 2 CCFLs light up, instead of
4 like mine http://www.lcdpart.com/Products/cda039f.html)



I did see some $7 inverters on All electronics. They might be my only
solution.

Try the $7 inverter first, chances are it'll work, at the very least it'll
show you if the tube is good and if you don't end up using it you can always
use it for some other project.

 

[Steve]

James Sweet wrote:

No, it just has all the pins attached along the edges of the panel.
They're sort of crimped on, then covered with a clear layer of what
appears to be some type of hard conformal coating. I've noticed that
sometimes I can get a bad segment to come on by tweaking the display a
little, but only while applying some force. It appears to be bad
connections, probably where the pins connect to the panel. The pins are
soldered into the PCB, so I know the problem's not there.




Bummer, sounds like your initial diagnosis of a bad display is definitly
correct, it'd be worth checking surplus places like All Electronics, HSC,
Alltronics, and a number of similar places.



Yeah, I'll keep checking around and see what I can find. If the display

didn't need to have the days on it, I would probably be able to adapt a
genereic display without too much difficulty. However, those days are
very important to the operation of the controller, at least to get it to
water when it should!

 

[Wes.]

"Andreas Ravnestad" <oracel@online.no> wrote in message
news:419ead92$1@proxy....

Hello,

I recently was given a Eizo Flexscan 9400 20" monitor from a friend. The
monitor is a bit old, but the luminence is great, and the colors and
contrast is way ok. However, as the brightness increases, there is a obvious
"shadow" or "echo", kinda like what you get when you recieve a
delayed/mirrored signal to your tv, causing an odd effect.

Is there a "standard" procedure to adjust this? As far as I can remember
from school, it might be the beam that is a little offset, and that it just
needs calibration? If anyone can provide some generic hints, I would
appreciate it alot.

(Ps! I have an education and proper tools, but it's been a few years since I
worked with monitors)

Kind regards,
Andreas Ravnestad

Miss matched impedance on the input cables can do this (if your monitor uses a
detachable input cable). I had same problem when I lost the original cable for
one monitor and used a home made replacement. Only after I purchased an
original replacement did the ghosting problem go away.

Wes.

 

[Ol' Duffer]

In article <pnzod.26218$fY.13439@bignews3.bellsouth.net>,
fredmann@bellsouth.net says...

I am a novice when it comes to these kinds of things, so I may not know the
correct terminology.
Anyway, I have a treadmill with a clearly broken "circuit", just beneath one
of the buttons which you press to control the speed. The break is very
small, and is on one of the two pieces of plastic which comes together when
you press the button. This circuit is just "painted" on the plastic piece
which is very flexible (a sort of rubbery plastic).
Is there a product out there that I can use to "repaint" this line?

Look for a "conductive ink pen". The ink contains finely
powdered metal whose particles are drawn together tightly
by a binder that shrinks slightly as it dries. Make sure
the surfaces are squeaky clean before applying.