Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

The Channel 3 issue is a user setup problem in the TV Guide menu, they have
it set to work with a cable box.

The remaining issues will need considerable time and effort to duplicate.
Without a DSO it may not be practical to repair due to the labor time
involved and I am sure the customer may not want to leave the set in the
shop for a couple/few months while the problem is tracked down.

Be very honest up front with the customer about the nature of the failure
and the expected time required to repair an issue like this one.

Assuming it is not obvious solder connections (do not forget to pull the
base drive coil) you likely have conductive glue underneath some surface
mount component, probably somewhere on the clock and data lines..

David
 
JURB6006 wrote:

Hi;

Thanks again for the help regarding the transmission. Your replies helped us
prevent the tranny guy from sucking about $1000 out of our pocket. Turned out
to be the 3-2 shift "assembly" whatever that exactly means.

Anyway, now it won't start. Cranks fine and has spark but no fuel. There are
three relays I can see under the hood. Does anyone know which one is the fuel
pump relay ?, or if it is in an alternate location ? None of these three click
when the ign is turned on. I've been looking around the web just for a simple
pictorial of the underhood components and can't seem to find one after an hour
of Googling.

I'm leaning away from the pump itself because there were absolutely no problems
with engine performance, it ran like a raped ape. It kept it up after a long
run too, after the tranny was fixed of course.

From what I've been reading I'll need to find the ECM2 fuse and said relay to
troubleshoot this. Even the location of the fuel pump test terminal would help.
I considered even testing at the oil pressure sending unit, but I'm pretty sure
that'll be hard to do, this thing is pretty cramped.

From what I've gleaned from the web it could even be the ignition switch,
something I'll not rule out yet because this was a shut it off and no restart
situation. Had to get a tow.

Anyway, I am familiar with how the modern fuel system works so I don't need a
tutorial on it, what I need is specific info. I realize the relay I seek could
be under the dash, in the glove box or who knows, in these newer cars it could
be in the frickin steering column (a little joke).

Actually I was wondering if there is indeed a better forum for such questions.
I've kicked around in some other groups that seem related to this type of
question, but none seem to be so fast moving or responsive as SER. In fact I
don't seem to see a NG with participants with the depth and breadth of
knowledge expressed here. I actually Googled "groups" and couldn't find what I
need. I even Googled "images" and got nothing, just a picture with pointers,
like that in a Haynes book would do the trick. Not to be found.

Thanks in advance.

JURB
Click to expand...
How do you know it does not have any fuel? Did you measure the fuel
pressure at the injector rail? I will look at my manuals on monday.
But some GM's will cut the fuel relay if the oil pressure does not come
up. The relays are usually mounted on the firewall inside the engine bay
on the passenger side. Look for a plastic cover. How did you check the
spark? timing light? DO you have a distributor or coil pack?

Bob


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The next step is to replace the LCD unit. The junkers may all have this
same problem, since this was common with many of these types of set.

--

Jerry G.
======

"Andy Cuffe" <baltimora@psu.edu> wrote in message
news:tfalq0prd5o4a9e5l644mtu318a236hbdo@4ax.com...
I've got a Sony GV-9 8mm VCR / LCD TV combo that I'm trying to repair.
It had the usual leaking capacitor problem. I've replaced all the
caps and fortunately there wasn't any significant board damage. The
VCR and tuner work fine, but the LCD is just blank without even the
slightest flicker of video, or noise (the back light is working).
I've checked around the LCD very carefully for circuit board damage,
open fuses and other obvious problems. Without a service manual, all
I can confirm is that sync and video are going to the LCD driver and
at least something is going to the LCD panel.

I've been looking on ebay for a junker with a good LCD, but most of
the broken ones seem to have the same blank screen problem. Is there
a common cause of this problem that anyone here knows about? It seems
odd for the LCD to totally fail like this. It's clearly seen very
little use and has never been dropped.
Andy Cuffe
baltimora@psu.edu
 
Hi!

Thank you for providing the great tip on the AV-716. The display on my
unit died in February 2004, but the amp itself worked fine until today
(November 2004). When switching the unit on, there was only one click (it
use to be two) and no sound or display.

R921 and R922 on my unit was busted, and both the display and the amp
seems to work fine after replacing them.

I want to replace all the resistors you mentioned. However, I seem to have
a different value for R924. Mine is 8.2 ohms (gray/red/gold) while yours
is 33 ohms. I have removed it from the PCB and checked with a multimeter
(~8.5 ohms) which seems to match the color coding.

Do you know if it is possible that I have a different PCB version? Mine
has the code "NCAR-4692" on it. The amp was bought in Norway sometime in
the 90's (I bought the amp second hand in ~1995 I believe). Can you
confirm that your R924 (sitting next to R923) is 33 ohms?

I would like to apologize in advance for any misconceptions or mistakes on
my part. :)


Thanks in advance,

Oivind H. Danielsen
 
"Isaac Wingfield" <isw@witzend.com> wrote in message
news:isw-B77B03.20435829112004@netnews.comcast.net...
| I'm trying to fix a laptop computer keyboard. It's made of three layers
| of thin plastic -- the upper and lower sheets have silver traces (looks
| silkscreened on), and the center sheet is an insulator except that holes
| are punched directly under the keys. When you press a key, the traces on
| the upper and lower sheets are connected.
|
| Some of the keys don't work and I know exactly where the break is. I
| tried bridging the break using some copper tape with a conductive
| adhesive, but it didn't work. I think soldering will melt the plastic.
|
| How do I repair this thing?
|
| Does that conductive-ink pen that Radio Shack sells work reliably? I'm
| reluctant to drop nearly fifteen dollars if it won't do the job, as a
| "new-used" keyboard is only about $50-$60.

IMO a new keyboard will be your best bet. Most efforts to fix keyboards,
apart from skilled cleaning, meet with continual failure.

N
 
Your best bet is to get a new keyboard. Most of the repairs to these
keyboards never last very long.

--

Jerry G.
======

"Isaac Wingfield" <isw@witzend.com> wrote in message
news:isw-B77B03.20435829112004@netnews.comcast.net...
I'm trying to fix a laptop computer keyboard. It's made of three layers
of thin plastic -- the upper and lower sheets have silver traces (looks
silkscreened on), and the center sheet is an insulator except that holes
are punched directly under the keys. When you press a key, the traces on
the upper and lower sheets are connected.

Some of the keys don't work and I know exactly where the break is. I
tried bridging the break using some copper tape with a conductive
adhesive, but it didn't work. I think soldering will melt the plastic.

How do I repair this thing?

Does that conductive-ink pen that Radio Shack sells work reliably? I'm
reluctant to drop nearly fifteen dollars if it won't do the job, as a
"new-used" keyboard is only about $50-$60.

thanks, Isaac
 
Your problem is very common. The 130V supply is running too high because of an
open capacitor. Look for a 100uf 200v capacitor near the heatsync/ HV
transformer area of the board.
 
In article <9dee5cb1.0411292057.9000619@posting.google.com>,
smcgroty@gmail.com says...
The set is a Magnavox HD2715 C203, chassis number 27E506-00AA.

When a dark image, such as the startup animation of an Xbox, is
displayed, the top left corner of the image becomes severely
distorted. The darker the image, the worse the distortion and the more
it extends down the left side in a general wedge shape. The left side
of the distortions are colored a dark red.

Although this may be unrelated to the primary problem, there is a
slow-rising ripple that moves bottom to top.
Click to expand...
Common problem. Replace the failed 130V filter capacitor with
a low esr 105 degree part 100uF 200V. Clean and re-solder the
horizontal drive resistors that have been hot. 1/2 hour.
 
The Apex name is not supported for service. This model must likely uses a
production PC interface to set-up. Most of the lower end sets are like that.
If you are critical, you should get a known brand name set that is
considered to be of quality, rather than skimp on a low cost set.

--

Jerry G.
=====

"johnst" <johnst1n@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:c79d2acba12bdf4489993e65e7293e71@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...
Anyone know how to enter the service menu for this model(should be the same
for any PF model I think)?

It's a good set, but the picture is a bit off-center; shifted to the left
about 1/2 to 1 inch or so. Therefore, it needs to be right-shifted to be
properly centered.

The shift seems most pronouced (closer to one full inch perhaps) when
viewing the DVD player hooked up via the component inputs, but somewhat
less pronouced than that when the DVD player is hooked up via S-Video
cable.

Television program viewing exhibits the "less" pronouced shift. It's most
noticable with a text banner which spans the entire width of the screen. A
small portion of the leftmost letter is off the viewing area.

I also suspect that to make the picture perfect, it needs to be not only
slightly right-shifted, but perhaps the entire viewing area as a whole,
could be "zoomed out" ever so sligtly, but I'd be thrilled with simply a
right-shift correction.

I excahnged the TV for another at the retailer soon after purchase,
thinking it was probably a defective unit, but the new one which I
deliberately chose with higher serial number has the same exact problem,
leading me to believe that for at least this "lot" of TV's (July '03),
they all left the warehouse improperly "tuned".

Here are some specific examples of what it looks like.

In The Lord of the Rings: The Fellowship of the Ring, before the screen
aspect ratio of the film becomes 16:9 (when it's still 4:3), in the
introduction with the film company's logo, there are two lines, "New Line"
and "Home Entertainment" towards the bottom of the screen. The "H" on
"Home Entertainment" is partially (maybe 33%) out of the viewing area to
the left.

When watching Fox Sports Net games, where the score banner is displayed
constantly across the top of the screen, the visiting team (1st on the
left) has part of its' 1st letter cut off (like the "N" of NYY, or the "O"
of "Oak" for example).

I've tried a few methods (such as Vol to 0, then simultaneously Mute on
remote and Menu on console) to no avail.

Please post any other methods known.

Thanks
 
probably a loose magnet in the yoke assembly; Mag/Philips hd problems with this
during the years when your set was built; difficult to fix for a novice; if a
book on the set kills or dampens the vibes, get a big thick one and leave it
there.
 
4:3 ratio
The DVD player most probably does pro scan use it in just the nornal
setting.

kip
 
ummm, no. There is documentation "out there" on how to enter the "service
menu" on many Apex models. All modern
T.V.s (including my 27 inch model) have some key
sequence to enter that service menu.

If you are critical, you should get a known brand
name set that is
considered to be of quality, rather than skimp on a
low cost set.
Click to expand...
You, obviously, don't know what that sequence is,
which is *ALL* I was asking for, therefore your reply is completely
irrelevant.
 
"john" <va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote in message news:<newscache$qlp08i$g18$1@newsfeed.niagara.com>...
4:3 ratio
The DVD player most probably does pro scan use it in just the nornal
setting.

kip
Click to expand...
THanks for the reply., Yes, the DVD has progressive scan
capabilitites. It asks if I have a tv that is progressive scan
capable- should I just say no- dont have tv that is progressive scan?
What do you mean by 'normal setting"
I really dont know if my tv which is 15 or more years old has
progressive scan.
Thanks for your help
 
Ol' Duffer <DontSend@MeSpam.com> wrote in message news:<coi5k3$5o0$0$65.17.134.236@wcoil.com>...
In article <9dee5cb1.0411292057.9000619@posting.google.com>,
Common problem. Replace the failed 130V filter capacitor with
a low esr 105 degree part 100uF 200V. Clean and re-solder the
horizontal drive resistors that have been hot. 1/2 hour.
Click to expand...
Is the replacement capacitor likely to be a common type, or is it
something I'll have to order specifically?
 
"N Cook" <diverse2@tcp.co.antyspahm.uk> wrote in message
news:MLSdndtxEu0flTPcRVn-rw@tcp.co.uk...
Asked to rennovate the controls and replace the blown front panel bulb.
Open up and amazed to see the illumination is by phosphorescent panel
powered directly
off the 240V mains. I would like to strip out and replace with a string of
low V filament green lamps,
but the owner wishes retained. Gives a distinctive magic-eye/ CRT
phosphorescent glow behind
each of the controls through the perspex front cover. "blown" bulb due to
flexing of the conductor strip so
too far from the phosphor material to activate in that area, probably due
to
a knock on the front perspex.

Anyone familiar and care to comment about the
safety aspects especially if powered from neutral / live swapped mains
supply etc
Click to expand...

Reminds me of those phosphorescent square panels that were mounted behind a
light switch so you could locate it in the dark and operated on the mains
voltage across the open switch.


--
Graham.



%Profound_observation%
 
"N Cook" <diverse2@tcp.co.antyspahm.uk> wrote in message
news:MLSdndtxEu0flTPcRVn-rw@tcp.co.uk...
| Asked to rennovate the controls and replace the blown front panel bulb.
| Open up and amazed to see the illumination is by phosphorescent panel
| powered directly
| off the 240V mains. I would like to strip out and replace with a string of
| low V filament green lamps,
| but the owner wishes retained. Gives a distinctive magic-eye/ CRT
| phosphorescent glow behind
| each of the controls through the perspex front cover. "blown" bulb due to
| flexing of the conductor strip so
| too far from the phosphor material to activate in that area, probably due
to
| a knock on the front perspex.
|
| Anyone familiar and care to comment about the
| safety aspects especially if powered from neutral / live swapped mains
| supply etc

Sounds cool. It wouldn't bother me. Since there's no ground (earth)
involved, swapping the line leads will have no effect, which may not be true
for the rest of the system. If it isn't broken, don't 'fix' it.

N
 
In article <9dee5cb1.0412011527.3a99f6d4@posting.google.com>,
smcgroty@gmail.com says...
Is the replacement capacitor likely to be a common type, or is it
something I'll have to order specifically?
Click to expand...
It's at the upper end of capacity available in that voltage
and case style, so a lot of suppliers don't carry them.
I got my last batch from Newark Electronics, part# 91F3389.
http://www.newarkinone.com
 
I really don't if this will help you out, at best there is some information
on CRT swamping.
There is alot of good reading at this site.

NOTE: I hope that I have not offended anyone with the above link...

Mike


http://slot-tech-ftp.serveftp.com:8080/
 
Is the replacement capacitor likely to be a common type, or is it
something I'll have to order specifically?
Click to expand...
Use a good 105 degree capacitor. Don't use a shit capacitor, something you get
at Radio shack, NTE, Xicon ect. Digikey has the best capacitors in this size
100UF 200v Panasonic EB series.
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=285701&Row=36
9734&Site=US
 
"N Cook" bravely wrote to "All" (01 Dec 04 18:03:31)
--- on the heady topic of "Peavey Valverb"

The R's are often the same in the ps divider chain. Burnt pigment
tends to toast to a different shade but if you found some original
paint then 16K is still in the ballpark. Replace with flameproof type
for safety. The resistors are used mainly for RC hum filtering with
low DC current present; probably not more than about 2 or 3 mA total.

The dual tube heaters can use 12 volts in series or 6 volts in
parallel so it doesn't matter. The HT caps are encased in wax? Hmmm,
pretty odd for a 1994 circuit. Certainly check the caps for leakage
but beware of the voltage, it really bites! They might simply need a
slow reforming as electros are self-healing, given half a chance.

A*s*i*m*o*v


NC> From: "N Cook" <diverse2@tcp.co.antyspahm.uk>

NC> Valve Reverb, 1U case prob. 1994 , no output.
NC> One obvious problem. Seems to be C-R-C-R-C HT ps with
NC> the first R overheated to partially white body and O/C.
NC> Scraped back and remnants measure 4K and 12 K. Comparing
NC> with other MO 1/2 W Rs, band positions on bodies, the band heated to
NC> black was
NC> probably gold and the first 2 Brown then blue , third is gone totally,
NC> . so maybe 16K .
NC> Supplying HT to 3 valves 12AT7 and 12AX7 so common enough.
NC> Anyone know the correct value of this R, The second one in
NC> the ps drop down chain is 22K and looks fine?

NC> I've not dug out my Avo valve tester yet, as not really a valve-man,
NC> so any ideas for this fault?
NC> The wax around the 3 HV Cs is unmelted but as the 22K is fine at the
NC> moment I suspect a powered-up-only short in middle 47uF,500V electro.

NC> Apparently no separate secondary for heater voltage - seems to use the
NC> same LV winding used for the transitor power rails - is that so ?

.... New computer? But I like my vacuum tubes... They keep me warm.
 
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