Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Joe]

Yes, I have run into many "smart" UPS cooking and constantly floating
batteries as high as 14.5-15 volts.
Check it with a DVM

-Joe

I hope the APC SU2200NET SmartUPS does not kill my next set of 4 - 12V
17Ah lead acid batteries!!!!

I have had the same problem. My theory is that it is charging slightly
over the permitted 2.3V per cell. Maybe 2.35V or so. Could this cause
the trouble?

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

 

Joe <joe.amp@nospamverizon.net> wrote:

Yes, I have run into many "smart" UPS cooking and constantly floating
batteries as high as 14.5-15 volts.
Check it with a DVM

I did check it, it was nowhere near as high as 14.5 or 15 volts. It was
only slightly above the stated max. continuous rating of 13.8 volts. I
seem to remember it was in the neighbourhood of 13.95 or 14 volts.

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

 

[Joe]

seem to remember it was in the neighborhood of 13.95 or 14 volts.

For "float" and maximum battery life that's to high !
The stated max. continuous rating of 13.8 volts is red lining it, boils them
dry in under a year (short life)
I set mine at 13.2, Im on my 4th year and my cell has plenty reserve.

-Joe




<maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl> wrote in message
news:cndr2t$4kn$4@news.tudelft.nl...

Joe <joe.amp@nospamverizon.net> wrote:
Yes, I have run into many "smart" UPS cooking and constantly floating
batteries as high as 14.5-15 volts.
Check it with a DVM

I did check it, it was nowhere near as high as 14.5 or 15 volts. It was
only slightly above the stated max. continuous rating of 13.8 volts. I
seem to remember it was in the neighbourhood of 13.95 or 14 volts.

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

 

[NSM]

"Jack Walston" <none@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:SOwmd.2229$pK6.276@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
| I recently built a robust lamp dimmer to drive an ignition coil. The
dimmer
....
| else that could be done to improve output consistency?

1) Why?

2) Perhaps search for Tesla Coils?

N

 

[MacMan85]

AFAIK All inverters use 12V as the supply. All TFT screens I've seen
have all the lamps switched on all the time - the brightness signal
alters the intensity of all lamps, not switches some of them off. Of
the four connection wires, one should be 12V, one Ground, one switches
the tubes on if there's a valid input signal, and the other controls
the brightness.

In your case the inverter is faulty - if one of the outputs goes bad,
a fault signal switches off all the inverter outputs. It is completely
normal for the display to flash on when you switch it on or apply a
video signal, it takes a second or so for the inverter fault circuit
to detect the fault and switch off the outputs.

The fault could be an output transistor or a faulty transformer. I've
found the only way to repair these is to fit a new inverter. I have
had some success using the cheap inverters sold with CCFLs for
computer case modding - you might find these at Radio Shack or
similar. You will lose the brightness control though.

Hope this helps,
Richard

 

[Fred]

"RWM" <RWM@RWMann.com> wrote in message news:419742D5.1010905@RWMann.com...

Fred wrote:

Have had this camera a long time but all of a sudden, it started giving
me
the "battery empty" message right after I install 4 new batteries.

IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES OR THE BATTERY CONNECTIONS.

Nothing special happened the day it started -- I had taken about
100 photos with no problem, then when the batteries ran out, I put in 4
new
ones and got 2 photos before "battery empty" message came up. Same ever
since.

Wonder if anyone had this problem come up on this or a similar model?

Thanks!!
Fred



In my experience, they're very sensitive to battery voltage. Even one
soft cell among "new" batteries will trigger that message. I've even
seen it happen with lithium cells. Suggest you switch out cells, and
see if you can identify the bad one.

Thanks, but... IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S
NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE
BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT
THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S
NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!

 

[Fred]

"Mike" <e@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:e6dmd.217$Tq6.216@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...

So what do you have to lose sending the camera to Olympus?

$155 and the high probability that the same problem will occur again

The reason why Olympus does not make the service information available is
due the experience and equipment needed to properly service the camera.

Wrong. The reason is .... they can (a) charge $155 for 15 minutes of repair
time or (b) you buy another camera.

 

[Fred]

"William Graham" <weg9@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ADimd.343279$wV.200576@attbi_s54...

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:gkbmd.2653$qS4.367@trnddc09...

"William Graham" <weg9@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:iUTld.40543$5K2.14161@attbi_s03...

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:LXKld.4359$GV5.3522@trnddc04...
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Well, if the camera works otherwise OK, then you have two choices.
Either
live with the problem, or send it off to the Olympus repair facility,
and
have them fix it. I would probably live with the problem unless and
until
the camera failed in some other way, and then, when it was due for a
Cal
and/or other service anyway, I would get the battery checking circuit
repaired along with.....I know that I never use the battery test
circuit
on
my camera, so I could care less if it works....I just carry spare
batteries
around with me in case I should ever need them.

Yes, but in this case, I can't live with the problem - the camera is not
usable as is. And can't send to Olympus because I'm sure this problem
will
come up again in a year or so - based on email and postings from others.
This is a common problem. Yet, I don't want to throw about the $$ I
spent
on it, so I'll keep trying to find out a method of troubleshooting it
myself.


You might try an independent technician. Some of these guys are pretty
good,
and you might find one who is familiar with your particular make and
model.......

Thanks William. In fact, I went on www.bigyellow.com and did a search for
all camera repair shops within a 30 mile radius. None of them would try
fixing it on their own -- except one Indian who charges $75 check-out fee
(fixed or not). All the others said they just pack the camera up and send to
Olympus - just like consumers would have to do, because Olympus doesn't make
service docs available.

 

[William Graham]

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:HyEmd.5781$h15.726@trnddc07...

"William Graham" <weg9@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ADimd.343279$wV.200576@attbi_s54...

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:gkbmd.2653$qS4.367@trnddc09...

"William Graham" <weg9@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:iUTld.40543$5K2.14161@attbi_s03...

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:LXKld.4359$GV5.3522@trnddc04...
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Well, if the camera works otherwise OK, then you have two choices.
Either
live with the problem, or send it off to the Olympus repair facility,
and
have them fix it. I would probably live with the problem unless and
until
the camera failed in some other way, and then, when it was due for a
Cal
and/or other service anyway, I would get the battery checking circuit
repaired along with.....I know that I never use the battery test
circuit
on
my camera, so I could care less if it works....I just carry spare
batteries
around with me in case I should ever need them.

Yes, but in this case, I can't live with the problem - the camera is
not
usable as is. And can't send to Olympus because I'm sure this problem
will
come up again in a year or so - based on email and postings from
others.
This is a common problem. Yet, I don't want to throw about the $$ I
spent
on it, so I'll keep trying to find out a method of troubleshooting it
myself.


You might try an independent technician. Some of these guys are pretty
good,
and you might find one who is familiar with your particular make and
model.......

Thanks William. In fact, I went on www.bigyellow.com and did a search for
all camera repair shops within a 30 mile radius. None of them would try
fixing it on their own -- except one Indian who charges $75 check-out fee
(fixed or not). All the others said they just pack the camera up and send
to
Olympus - just like consumers would have to do, because Olympus doesn't
make
service docs available.


Yes. Well, this is a bad situation. I have a list of manufacturers I keep

(in my mind) that I will not deal with, simply because of things like this.
They all have, at some time or other in the past, proven themselves to be
unworthy of my business. Not all of these people are manufacturers. Some are
services such as banks and insurance companies. There is really no way to
recover the time and money that I have spent with these people, so all I can
do is boycott them, and perhaps tell my friends about them. Unfortunately,
we live in a "use till it breaks and then throw it away" world, and it's
getting worse, not better. Companies used to care about their public image,
and cater to the individual, but today there are so many millions of
customers, and they are all just looking for the most they can get at the
cheapest price possible, that no company can possibly care anymore. Every
brand name that I respected in my youth has been sold down the river and
trashed by its new owner, so there are none that I can trust anymore, and I
too, am forced to just deal with whoever gives me the most for the cheapest
price. I realized this many years ago when I sat in a friends new Porsche
and realized that it was a cheap plastic Volkswagen with the name, "Porsche"
written in chrome on the dashboard. All the banks that my father knew have
turned into pawnshops who won't loan anyone a dollar unless they get a
dollar and a half of collateral to put in their safe first. It has become a
cheap, plastic world, full of cheap, plastic thieves, and I don't know what
to do about it.

 

[Baz]

Did you ever find these? I have the same problem.

 

[Baz]

Did you ever find a supplier? I have the same problem.

 

[Big Bill]

On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 09:08:54 GMT, "Fred"
<testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote:

"RWM" <RWM@RWMann.com> wrote in message news:419742D5.1010905@RWMann.com...


Fred wrote:

Have had this camera a long time but all of a sudden, it started giving
me
the "battery empty" message right after I install 4 new batteries.

IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES OR THE BATTERY CONNECTIONS.

Nothing special happened the day it started -- I had taken about
100 photos with no problem, then when the batteries ran out, I put in 4
new
ones and got 2 photos before "battery empty" message came up. Same ever
since.

Wonder if anyone had this problem come up on this or a similar model?

Thanks!!
Fred



In my experience, they're very sensitive to battery voltage. Even one
soft cell among "new" batteries will trigger that message. I've even
seen it happen with lithium cells. Suggest you switch out cells, and
see if you can identify the bad one.

Thanks, but... IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S
NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!
IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE
BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT
THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S
NOT THE BATTERIES!!! IT'S NOT THE BATTERIES!!!


How do you know?

--
Bill Funk
Change "g" to "a"

 

[Darren Harris]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<rRVkd.720$nc.681@trnddc02>...

"Darren Harris" <Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote in message
news:9437a27c.0411110754.6457ee1d@posting.google.com...
It's not terribly complicated, but either way you'll pretty much need to
use
a microcontroller. Check out www.maximic.com for LCD display driver
chips,
and look at www.atmel.com or www.microchip.com for microcontroller info.
You
could save some hardware time by using a ready-made LCD display, 16
character x 2 line displays are relatively common, cheap, and not overly
complex to drive. To save some time coding you can skip the assembly
language and look into one of the compilers out there, RVK Basic, Bascom
Basic, PICBasic, C, etc. Another advantage of this approach is that if
you
don't like the way it works or think of a new feature you want, you
simply
tweak the code until it works the way you want it to.

Unfortunately, since I know nothing about microcontrollers, driver
chips, or programming, can anyone advise me on how I can find someone
who could do this?



I didn't either until a couple years ago, it was having an achievable goal
like this that gave me the motivation and direction to learn it.

Translation = Get up off my ass.

My experience is that I'll spend months running all over the internet
trying to gather info on this, unless there is a step-by-step
document(with visual aids) somewhere thet covers *every* detail.(It
seems that nothing is ever really straight forward).

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

 

[James Sweet]

"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
news:ddxmd.179779$9b.94095@edtnps84...

"Jack Walston" <none@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:SOwmd.2229$pK6.276@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
| I recently built a robust lamp dimmer to drive an ignition coil. The
dimmer
...
| else that could be done to improve output consistency?

1) Why?

2) Perhaps search for Tesla Coils?

N

I got very impressive results by driving an old monitor flyback with the
output from one of those cheap Advance F32T8 electronic fluorescent
ballasts. Wire both outputs in parallel and connect them to the primary
winding of a flyback, I could strike the arc at more than an inch and draw
it out to 3" or more.

 

[Fred]

"William Graham" <weg9@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:IiFmd.517195$mD.451603@attbi_s02...

It has become a cheap, plastic world, full of cheap, plastic thieves, and
I don't know
what to do about it.

Fear not, young William! About the time I'm starting to think the same
thing, I run across a small shop or garage or even a sales clerk who goes
the extra mile and I get my confidence in mankind restored.

Ain't that right, Mike?

 

[Mike]

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:JHPmd.7000$GV5.202@trnddc04...

"William Graham" <weg9@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:IiFmd.517195$mD.451603@attbi_s02...

It has become a cheap, plastic world, full of cheap, plastic thieves,
and
I don't know
what to do about it.

Fear not, young William! About the time I'm starting to think the same
thing, I run across a small shop or garage or even a sales clerk who goes
the extra mile and I get my confidence in mankind restored.

Ain't that right, Mike?


What ever you say Fred after all you are a camera repair expert

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[BOB URZ]

Steve wrote:

I'm trying to find a replacement LCD for a Toro Vision 2 irrigation
controller. I tried to purchase one through Toro, but they won't sell it
to me.

It appears to be a fairly generic clock display. It has 4 full digits w/
colon in the middle, AM and PM to the right of the digits, and along the
bottom are the days. It has legs attached to it, 12 along the top and 12
along the bottom at 0.1 inch separation. It appears that the first, 6th,
7th, and 12th pins in each row serve no electrical function, as they're
cut shorter than the others and do not contact the PCB. The only writing
on this LCD is the number 2391 on the back.

Here's an attempt to draw the display (it looks reasonably correct if
all the characters are the same width):

o o o o o o o o o o o o
-------------------------------
| |
| #### #### #### #### |
| # # # # # # # # # AM |
| #### #### #### #### |
| # # # # # # # # # PM |
| #### #### #### #### |
| |
| SUN MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT |
-------------------------------
o o o o o o o o o o o o

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Check out Jamco and Digikey.

Bob



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[Mike]

Tell them your a camera repair shop it might help.

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:eZSmd.5741$N_5.3758@trnddc03...

Holy smokes, Mike!!! Thanks very much! I will get on the phone with the
boys down at Olympus in the morning as axe why in THEE hell they didn't
tell
me about the parts manual.

Thanks, again!

"Mike" <e@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:E_Qmd.1645$Tq6.1072@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...

"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:IHPmd.6999$GV5.2840@trnddc04...
LOL! Yes, I've used that before myself!



Ok Fred here you go. The problem you have is either a blown fuse or the
DC
to DC converter.
According to my information you *can* purchase a parts manual from
Olympus
then once you have the camera apart cross reference the fuse in the C700
with any of the large electronic catalog houses.
KEY Electronics seems to be the source used. I hope this helps you a
little.
Mike


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[RWM]

When you call, make sure to tell them your battery theory ... AND MAKE
SURE TO SPEAK IN ALL CAPS.

Fred wrote:

Holy smokes, Mike!!! Thanks very much! I will get on the phone with the
boys down at Olympus in the morning as axe why in THEE hell they didn't tell
me about the parts manual.

Thanks, again!

"Mike" <e@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:E_Qmd.1645$Tq6.1072@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...


"Fred" <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote in message
news:IHPmd.6999$GV5.2840@trnddc04...


LOL! Yes, I've used that before myself!




Ok Fred here you go. The problem you have is either a blown fuse or the


DC


to DC converter.
According to my information you *can* purchase a parts manual from Olympus
then once you have the camera apart cross reference the fuse in the C700
with any of the large electronic catalog houses.
KEY Electronics seems to be the source used. I hope this helps you a


little.


Mike

 

[RonKZ650]

I posted the same basic question about a month ago concerning the CTC203 with
no responses, but I've also had several CTC197s. Either the speakers are shut
off, or no problem found on probably 20 in just the last year. I haven't
figured anything out.
Ron