Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[kony]

On Mon, 06 Jun 2005 06:17:44 +1000, Franc Zabkar
<fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote:

<snip>

WARNING: If you try this, I'd first ensure that the camera's USB
ground and supply negative are at the same potential, otherwise you
may damage your camera if you have both cables connected at the same
time. You can do this by connecting a dummy plug to the DC socket. Use
a DMM to test for continuity between the two grounds. Remove the
batteries while doing this.

I agree that the grounds need be same potential but have you
ever run across any USB GND that wasn't already at power
GND? AFAIK, they all are.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Sun, 05 Jun 2005 21:53:09 GMT, kony <spam@spam.com> put finger to
keyboard and composed:

On Mon, 06 Jun 2005 06:17:44 +1000, Franc Zabkar
fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote:

snip

WARNING: If you try this, I'd first ensure that the camera's USB
ground and supply negative are at the same potential, otherwise you
may damage your camera if you have both cables connected at the same
time. You can do this by connecting a dummy plug to the DC socket. Use
a DMM to test for continuity between the two grounds. Remove the
batteries while doing this.

I agree that the grounds need be same potential but have you
ever run across any USB GND that wasn't already at power
GND? AFAIK, they all are.

AFAICS, there is no guarantee that the camera's power ground is at the
same potential as its USB ground. What if there is a series polarity
protection diode? Or what if the camera has its own internal SMPS?


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Art]

Try relocating the phone and it's base assembly further away from the
router. Or try orientating the antenna on the router. May be no correct way
to eliminate this interference. Modifying the phone may render it
inoperable. Contact Panasonic directly and ask them if there is a way to
have these items function in the same general areas without the
interference. .
"Michel Peterson" <cooldown@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1118041215.590998.299680@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

I have a Panasonic KX-TG2570 and it's causing interference with my WiFi
Router so I was wondering if it is possible to remove the 2.4 Ghz
support and make it work only with 900 Mhz support, since it uses both
bands I thought it could be possible... Any ideas on how to do this?
Does anybody has the schematics of the phone?

Thx in advance
Best Regards
C00I90WN

 

[Michael Fiedler]

If you're handy, take the fan out and disassemble it and clean and
lube the shaft and bearings; this should clear up the noise.

On 4 Jun 2005 07:35:05 -0700, angrylittleal@yahoo.ca wrote:

I picked up a used hk560. Everything works great but the noise from
the cooling fan is a little loud. Is it normal? Can I lube it? Do I
have to replace it?

 

[Lou]

"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:v4u7a117q81ho5qdimpm5em9mrs33qvj5o@4ax.com...

On Sun, 05 Jun 2005 21:53:09 GMT, kony <spam@spam.com> put finger to
keyboard and composed:

On Mon, 06 Jun 2005 06:17:44 +1000, Franc Zabkar
fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote:

snip

WARNING: If you try this, I'd first ensure that the camera's USB
ground and supply negative are at the same potential, otherwise you
may damage your camera if you have both cables connected at the same
time. You can do this by connecting a dummy plug to the DC socket. Use
a DMM to test for continuity between the two grounds. Remove the
batteries while doing this.

I agree that the grounds need be same potential but have you
ever run across any USB GND that wasn't already at power
GND? AFAIK, they all are.

AFAICS, there is no guarantee that the camera's power ground is at the
same potential as its USB ground. What if there is a series polarity
protection diode? Or what if the camera has its own internal SMPS?


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

I've been following this thread off and on. I may have lost some of the
translation due to that. But, I'll offer up one of my own fixes. I bought an
adaptor for my camera, it cost $29 at Staples. It came with mutiple fittings
to adapt to the particular camera. It also has a voltage setting. Similar to
a Wal-Mart special. While that is ok for using the computer here at the desk
for downloading or taking many pictures with AC near by, it didn't solve the
issue of it sucking batteries up like no tomorrow. I bought two 6 volt (I
think 2100mAH) RC batteries from Radio Shack. I wired them in Parallel for
the current. I wired them in such a way I can plug them into the battery OR
into the charger. I had to slighly modify the charger. I did it in such a
way as to be able to place it back to norrmal if need be and no disassembly
required. The batteries are not that heavy, can be carried in a Fanny Pack
or even a deep pocket of trousers or jacket. I'm sure that if you made such
an arrangement, you could then use it at your desk or away. The batteries
seem to last a good while, but that is with "little" flash use. Most of my
pictures since that project - have been outdoors in decent light. The "only"
problem I had, which I have since fixed, is the plug I used on the battery
pack to go into the camera wasn't an exact fit. The shell was, but not
internal pin. At first it seemed to be ok. It had to be held in place to
make contact. Maybe when I first placed the plug in the camera I was holding
it in place to make it work - and didn't realize it. Once I realized I had
that problem, I couldn't find an exact fitting plug at that time. I have
since bought one from a place which offered such size plugs. System works
like a charm. The charger still works ok with it too. Takes a tad longer but
it works. All in all, for as much time so far as I have gotten out of this
set up on a single battery charge, I'm happy. Last year when on a business
trip, I blew over $20 in batteries. This time, NADA. Except for having to
deal with the plug issue for the moment, I was free to take pictures to my
hearts content. I did use the flash about a dozen times, but not enough to
see how long the batteries would last with constant usage. of it, as opposed
to not using it. It works "REAL" well. I believe the batteries cost me $14
or so - on sale. One came with the charger, the other I bought separate. One
of these days, I'll do that test with the flash.

Lou

 

[NSM]

<angrylittleal@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1117895705.772098.150840@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I picked up a used hk560. Everything works great but the noise from
the cooling fan is a little loud. Is it normal? Can I lube it? Do I
have to replace it?

I'd start looking for a replacement. I've known CPU fans to sound like a
chain saw when they're bad!

N

 

[kip]

Have you checked the return resistors , are there any PC mount fuses ?

kip

Ron" <rcoonjr@buckeye-express.com> wrote in message
news:1118073505.950811.109860@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Update: Well I've replaced both STK392-110s with no change in the
picture. Does anyone have or can download a schematic for this unit..
the model number is TP43H60 Using Chassis TAC9859. I have one
capacitor in question C446... Can anyone verify that D688 is the
vertical output transistor?

--Ron

Thanks for all the help.

 

[iconed]

"Jeff Walther" wrote:

My Radius IntelliColor Display/20e starts up green, but with a
strong
green that suggests having the brightness turned up way too
high. The
green is like a
overall very strong wash, pretty much unusable since it's so
intense.
During these periods, the focus is also out. After a period
of time it
reverts to normal and is a lovely sharp monitor. That period
of time
seems to be lengthening.

Sometimes, after a while, the green seems to go away, but the
over-wash
and poor focus remains. Then still later the image goes back
to good.

At a guess, the microcontroller that handles the settings is
having some
difficulty and the monitor is starting up with some settings
in their
unbiased state. Perhaps its (the microcontroller's) 5v (?)
supply has
gone wonky--possibly expiring electrolytic caps? Or maybe
the memory
element that stores the settings (Flash, EEPROM?) has reached
the end of
its life with too many cycles?

Anyway, I'm handy with soldering tools from axial caps all the
way down to
208 pin quad flat packs. What I'm not any good at is
diagnostics.

I think that this monitor has an equivalent Sony model, but
I'm not
certain. It's definitely a trinitron. I can just make out
the two
horizontal lines at 1/3 intervals.

I hope that someone is familiar with this problem and can
point me at the
likely culprit in terms of component(s) that need replacing.

Thank you for any helpful or humorous suggestions,

Jeff

--
A friend will help you move. A real friend will help you move
a body.

Dear friends!

I have the same problem exactly! I tryed Isaak’s advise -
unfortunatelly it doesn’t work in my case. Did you anybody find some
work-around?

I would very grateful for any suggestions (exsept - "buy a new one"



Ilya Colley, Moscow, Russia

--
Posted using the http://www.macforumz.com interface, at author's request
Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
Topic URL: http://www.macforumz.com/Video-Radius-Intellicolor-Display-20e-Microcontroller-Problem-ftopict142733.html
Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.macforumz.com/eform.php?p=595977

 

[Rono]

There is a capacitor by the flyback, 10 uf @
250 volts, I think. Flybacks don't go in those
units. Rono.

<boese.c@maplan.com> wrote in message
news:1118084863.391405.82400@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

My JVC TV is about 2.5 years old. A few weeks ago, the screen became
blurry and white. I took it to a local shop, the said it was the FLY
back HV transformer, my question is how hard it this to replace. I have
worked on TV's in the past, nothing to major, but I do work on
electronics from time to time. Thanks for you thoghts and input.

Chad

 

[Adrian C]

hupjack@excite.com wrote:

an IBM Netvista X40 found its way into my garage recently. A fixer
upper sorta project, and frankly this one has me a bit stumped. When
power is applied, I can hear the processor fan and the cdrom whirling,
and the led near the power button lights when I hit that power button,
but I don't get anything at all posting to the screen.

with the screen and everything else being integrated.. I don't even
know how to go about troubleshooting this sucker..

any 1.....2......3...... steps to follow? anybody have any
experience taking these things apart?

if I had a take apart guide I might be a bit more adventurous about
figuring out if the lcd was properly hooked up to the rest of the
system and such..

any help with this sucker would be much appreciated. If I can't fix
it, I'd like to at least figure out what's busted so that I can part
out the rest of the system and throw away a minimal amount of stuff.

thanks in advance,
Ethan

Have you checked the IBM website for a maintenance manual? Normally
pretty good on strip down procedures and testing.

--
Adrian

 

[Jason D.]

On 6 Jun 2005 12:07:43 -0700, boese.c@maplan.com wrote:

My JVC TV is about 2.5 years old. A few weeks ago, the screen became
blurry and white. I took it to a local shop, the said it was the FLY
back HV transformer, my question is how hard it this to replace. I have
worked on TV's in the past, nothing to major, but I do work on
electronics from time to time. Thanks for you thoghts and input.

Chad

Chad, what I do is isolate the G2 wire if not, then focus wire. One
solders into CRT board, other one (either a collar or a button to push
to release the focus wire. Try one at a time. If this changes, I
still think it is fly. I still have to change flybacks in JVC sets
occasionally. They either fail (either kill the HOT or fly heats and
HOT up quickly and shuts down. Or noisy focus or G2 or that kind you
saw. But that can be caused by CRT, I check for any HV with HV probe
on the CRT pins with CRT board pulled.

Cheers, Wizard

 

[James Sweet]

"Richard" <richardlee.net@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1118043064.064942.235770@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

Yes, the display is cracked.
I contacted futaba for the part, but they dont want to sell it.
Do you know where i can get the part?

An appliance shop or the manufacture of the stove, chances are you'll have
to buy the whole board unless you can find a scrap appliance with the part
you need.

 

[James Sweet]

<boese.c@maplan.com> wrote in message
news:1118101786.779276.204250@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

So that could be causing the problem?

Yeah, and it's cheap to try so it makes sense to do so before replacing an
expensive flyback transformer.

 

[James Sweet]

"moonlite" <elect21st@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1118115551.408089.318070@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hello folks- A customer complained about a "cloud" on his 52" RPTV. I
checked the TV and saw that he indeed has what looks like grey dirt,
which looks like a cloud. This dirt is visible only on bright scenes. I
cleaned the screen and the lenses (outside only) without success. Can
dirt inside one of the lenses cause this ? Or, is it possible dirt
somehow found its way inside between the fresnel and the outside screen
? Or maybe his cleaning habits did permanent damage to the lenticular
screen ? One thing is for sure: the "cloud" is there. I'm trying to
avoid any unnecessary disassembly. Thanks for your opinions.

moonlite

Dirt can get between the two screens or on the mirror, also bacterial growth
in the coolant is fairly common but when that happens it usually doesn't
affect all colors the same, generally green and blue get cloudy.

 

[NSM]

<tbusky@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1118109523.985232.216600@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I just noticed the cover of my R-S catalog. It says, "You've got
questions. We've got answers." So then why am I still asking questions?

In what part of that slogan did you see them say they weren't stupid
answers?

N

 

[Art]

Seen results of customer induced damage due to smoking, use of candles, use
of fire place, dust and debris blown about by forced air heating/cooling,
dust from local construction, etc. Occasionally the material will get
between the fresnal, lenticular, and even protector screen. When it does
collect on the screens it may not necessarily be in any particular pattern,
however I've seen many where it tends to produce the "Cloud" or "Halo"
effect. Sometimes the material may be cleaned off with application of
appropriate cleaners and techniques, requiring removal and disassembly of
the screen assembly. This causes other problems because most customer
residences are not "Clean Room" specific. That is, by cleaning and
reassembling the screens in the average atmospheric conditions within a
normal home, dirt, dust, etc will end up between the screens, probably
producing another unwanted effect. Normally in these conditions we tall the
customer what the costs of a new screen assembly (All 3 items) will cost
them including labour. Never have seen this caused by the mirrors, yet, but
have seen fluid in SONY and PHILIPS branded products have bacterial growth.
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:GN8pe.12356$_w.7117@trnddc01...

"moonlite" <elect21st@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1118115551.408089.318070@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hello folks- A customer complained about a "cloud" on his 52" RPTV. I
checked the TV and saw that he indeed has what looks like grey dirt,
which looks like a cloud. This dirt is visible only on bright scenes. I
cleaned the screen and the lenses (outside only) without success. Can
dirt inside one of the lenses cause this ? Or, is it possible dirt
somehow found its way inside between the fresnel and the outside screen
? Or maybe his cleaning habits did permanent damage to the lenticular
screen ? One thing is for sure: the "cloud" is there. I'm trying to
avoid any unnecessary disassembly. Thanks for your opinions.

moonlite


Dirt can get between the two screens or on the mirror, also bacterial
growth
in the coolant is fairly common but when that happens it usually doesn't
affect all colors the same, generally green and blue get cloudy.

 

[Art]

Possible the Convergence DCU is defective?
"Ron" <rcoonjr@buckeye-express.com> wrote in message
news:1118116931.974497.78870@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Checked all resistors (the 1 ohm and 3.3 ohm)... All check out ok. My
guess at this point would be this missing capacitor... I used my volt
meter to check voltage. I get about 210-220 volts DC on the positive
side of the cap. I've traced the negitive side of the cap all the way
back to the flyback. of course it jumps though hoops a capacitor here
and a diode. I've tried to install a 200v 1uf cap. with no change in
the picture.

--Ron
Baffled but learning in the process.

 

[Tim Schwartz]

Matthew,

The shop manual calls for 8.2K, carbon, 1/2 watt. These resistors tend
to run hot, so I would space them up off the board a bit for better
cooling. I've also seen the diodes go bad. D405 and 406 are RD15ESB3,
which I believe are 15V zeners. D401-404 are 1N4148.

Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics


mattvarney wrote:

Hello,

I am currently working on a couple of NAD 7240PE receivers. On one of
them, the soft-clip feature is not functioning properly (enabling it
causes the right channel to clip at a low level).

The problem seems to be four cracked resistors at the back of the unit,
near the soft-clip switch. They are labeled R413, R423, R414, and R424.
I need the values for these four parts. On the unit where this feature
works OK, all four of the resistors are 1/2 W 10 kOhm with 1%
precision. The bad resistors are 1/4W 8.2 kOhm with 5% precision.
Unfortunately, it appears that all of these are replacements; I don't
have the original parts. I could use 1/2W 10k's in the bad unit, since
they seem to work in the other one, but I'd rather be certain of having
the optimal values [especially since I am planning to sell the amp
after fixing it]. I know that some of you have the service manual. If
you could provide the original values, I would appreciate it _very
much_.

Thanks
Matthew Varney

 

[Travis Jordan]

tbusky@sbcglobal.net wrote:

No, there is no separate DC input connection at the antenna. I was
thinking I'd just modify the amplifier to supply external power (not
from the coax). The antenna is in the attic so it won't see real
weather. I am assuming there is a choke between the center conductor
of the coax and the power supply in the amplifier that allows the DC
from the coax to pass but stops the RF. If I disconnect ths choke
from the coax, the local amplifier power will not back feed the coax
and damage anything on the receiving side. Then I can supply the DC
between the open end of the choke and ground.

That's a lot of work for $34 (the cost of an inline amp with PS from
R/S). Wouldn't you have to run power to the antenna location? Plus all
the effort in modifying the antenna. Besides, using a separate inline
amp gives you the flexibility of upgrading the antenna later if you want
to.

It is your time and your money, so you decide. But if it were me, I'd
take the easy route.

 

[JANA]

I've serviced many of these Sony sets, and have no issue with the antenna
input. The RF sensitivity, and image rejection meets the necessary
standards.

You should find out the criteria of the so-called "cable test", before
making a decision like that. The other sets, except for the Panasonic,
would never measure up to the performance of the Sony set.

--

JANA
_____


<socialism001@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1118105290.568468.56430@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I am looking at the consumer reports and noticed in the Antenna/Cable
Input column that the Sony's got only got a Good rating and not a very
good or excellent rating. Does anyone know what consumer reports look
for when doing that rating, I want the best possible picture so am
thinking of looking at toshiba/jvc/or panasonic as they got very good
on the cable input. The sony fs120 looks nice in the store but just
not sure how it will perform when plugged into comcast cable.

Thanks,
Chris