Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1117844049.979105.188200@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
<esoroka@gmail.com> wrote:

Anybody know the difference between the words:
a) Refurbished
b) Reconditioned
c) Remanufactured
d) Rebuild

They only mean what the seller wants them to mean, I'd say. Never seen any
legal definitions.

In replacement car engine terms I'd say

a) Checked and ok. Maybe repaired with re-claimed parts.
b) The major wearing parts - like pistons - replaced.
c) All wearing parts replaced.
d) Fully remanufactured to the standards of a new makers unit or better.

--
*Microsoft broke Volkswagen's record: They only made 21.4 million bugs.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Alt Beer]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4d75aa9b03dave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <1117844049.979105.188200@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
esoroka@gmail.com> wrote:
Anybody know the difference between the words:
a) Refurbished
b) Reconditioned
c) Remanufactured
d) Rebuild

Refurbished and Reconditioned are grand words intended to give confidence to
prospective purchasers. In some places, Refurbished and Reconditioned means
they've just polished the outer case of whatever the item is. In some
other places they just mean faulty customer returns that have been repaired.

 

[Ron(UK)]

Alt Beer wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4d75aa9b03dave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <1117844049.979105.188200@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
esoroka@gmail.com> wrote:

Anybody know the difference between the words:
a) Refurbished
b) Reconditioned
c) Remanufactured
d) Rebuild



Refurbished and Reconditioned are grand words intended to give confidence to
prospective purchasers. In some places, Refurbished and Reconditioned means
they've just polished the outer case of whatever the item is. In some
other places they just mean faulty customer returns that have been repaired.

In some cases, take for example Hewlett Packard and Toshiba,
Remanufactured means that the original units were either overstock at
the importers, or overstock at the resellers (high street retailer of
your choice) When a newer model is introduced, the old models can no
longer be sold at a profit so the units still in stock are returned to
the importers or manufacturers agents who repack them and sell them out
at a much reduced price to firms who specialise in stacking them high
and moving them fast. In the UK www.morgancomputers.co.uk for example.

It can also mean the the unit was returned as faulty and replaced by the
store who then returned to unit for repair to the manufacturer or their
agent who returned the unit to as new condition.

Ron

 

[Wild Bill]

The terms all include Re-, which could also mean that the first owner
Refused to own it (for numerous reasons), and that someone feels that there
is a good chance that they can Re-sell it. It appears to be a good gimmick
here in the U.S.

I'd consider getting something with a good rebate over trying to save money
by bying Re- merchandise.

The likelyhood of something actually being Factory Reconditioned is highly
unlikely, since most products aren't sold in the same country (or even
continent) where they're manufactured. Nearly all of the Re- stuff is done
by sub-contractors, and is probably just the lowest bidder.

There are a lotta terms that are used loosely that are just convenient ways
of saying that the item was previously owned, and is now being recycled if
someone will buy it again.

In recent years, you don't know what you're getting, even if the article
isn't specifically marked as something referring to being previously owned.

When I bought a new (not re-anything) Packard Bell 1020? monitor about ten
years ago, the enclosed literature stated that the unit was (or may have
been) manufactured using components that included remanufactured/reused
components which meet required specifications.

Before that monitor, I had a crappy looking monitor from that Shack store,
that appeared to be a Re-something with a model number that didn't appear in
their product line (wasn't in any of their catalogs). It seemed to be a
previous not-very-good model in a new case, assigned a different model
number, and sold as a new unit.

Manufacturers, retailers and repair depots will obviously do almost anything
to squeeze more profits out of returned, poorly designed, badly produced and
possibly even damaged in shipment goods.

Cheers
WB
.................

<esoroka@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1117844049.979105.188200@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Anybody know the difference between the words:
a) Refurbished
b) Reconditioned
c) Remanufactured
d) Rebuild


Thanks,
Eugene

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[Wild Bill]

Order them online and be sure to select a quality brand name, or get
adventureous and find a hamfest in your area.

Most local/regional amateur radio clubs will be holding hamfests now that
the weather is good for outdoor events.

Google or ARRL or that Shack store will special order thousands of items
that they don't stock.

Cheers
WB
..................

<kellrobinson@billburg.com> wrote in message
news:1117644473.596511.259090@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

The problem with getting completely useless replies like "Oh, there
must be a store that sells it" and "Why don't you just look in the
Yellow Pages" is just that other people who read these postings will
get the feeling that the question has been answered, and I won't get
any meaningful responses.
Well, there are no more Amateur Radio store left in New York City,
believe it or not -- else why would I have posted? I have been a ham
for twenty years and lived in New York City just as long -- I should
know.
I would GREATLY prefer that you netizens would let my post die in
oblivion, without a single response, than get worthless replies. So
shut up. Unless you know where I can get N connectors locally.

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[Art]

www.mcminone.com 800-543-4333 They have an On-Line Catalog Access. 73"s
"Wild Bill" <kwag98@Xusachoice.net> wrote in message
news:42a1aa4f$1_2@spool9-west.superfeed.net...

Order them online and be sure to select a quality brand name, or get
adventureous and find a hamfest in your area.

Most local/regional amateur radio clubs will be holding hamfests now that
the weather is good for outdoor events.

Google or ARRL or that Shack store will special order thousands of items
that they don't stock.

Cheers
WB
.................

kellrobinson@billburg.com> wrote in message
news:1117644473.596511.259090@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
The problem with getting completely useless replies like "Oh, there
must be a store that sells it" and "Why don't you just look in the
Yellow Pages" is just that other people who read these postings will
get the feeling that the question has been answered, and I won't get
any meaningful responses.
Well, there are no more Amateur Radio store left in New York City,
believe it or not -- else why would I have posted? I have been a ham
for twenty years and lived in New York City just as long -- I should
know.
I would GREATLY prefer that you netizens would let my post die in
oblivion, without a single response, than get worthless replies. So
shut up. Unless you know where I can get N connectors locally.




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Newsgroups
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[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1117644473.596511.259090@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
<kellrobinson@billburg.com> wrote:

The problem with getting completely useless replies like "Oh, there
must be a store that sells it" and "Why don't you just look in the
Yellow Pages" is just that other people who read these postings will
get the feeling that the question has been answered, and I won't get
any meaningful responses.
Well, there are no more Amateur Radio store left in New York City,
believe it or not -- else why would I have posted? I have been a ham
for twenty years and lived in New York City just as long -- I should
know.

If a ham, surely other hams should be able to help? One for the actual
price plus postage?

--
*Learn from your parents' mistakes - use birth control

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Ken Weitzel]

shera wrote:

Hi Everyone,

I was wondering I need to update my current bios to use my new hard
drive. But the only company I found that offers it says I have to pay
39.00-50.00 to get it. Does anyone know where I could get the file for
alot cheap or for free?
The file I needs is:
Award Modualar Bios v6.00 PC W6167 msv1.6 083000


Thanks for the help
Aoi_chan

Hi Shera...

I've never found a motherboard maker that doesn't offer
bios upgrades free.

I'd suspect that you might have an msi motherboard. If
that's correct, then go to msicomputer.com and check their
bios downloads page.

If it isn't msi, then google the mainboard makers name until
you find their site, and look around.

Be very very very careful updating bios. Follow every
instruction to the letter. Any error on your part will be
catastrophic.

Ken

 

[C.Joseph Drayton]

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

Hi Ethan,

Are you sure that it is not simply disabled? A couple of years ago
my assistant disable the NIC on my HP Pavilion zt1130 and it did not
show in any software including device manager. I went into [Network
Connections] chose [View Connections] and the NIC was still showing
there. I right clicked chose [Enable] and it turned back on and
everything was back to normal. What threw me was that even [Device
Manager] did not see it when it was disabled. [View Connections] was
the only place you could see it.

Ciao . . . C.Joseph

That which a man buys too cheaply . . .
He esteems too lightly

hupjack@excite.com wrote:

I'm checking out a Toshiba Satellite 1005-S157 for a family friend.

I just restored the sucker from the original software CDs since I
figured the software would be the reason I couldn't see the onboard
network card. It's not in the device manager at all.

Well, even after a full system restore from the toshiba cds, I still
have no onboard NIC showing up. I just looked at the back of the
system, and spotted two LEDs that are crammed in around the RJ45 jack,
so I plugged a live ethernet cable in, but the LEDs didn't light.

So I'm wondering if anybody knows / has any experience with this
hardware. Is the onboard NIC ever a daughter card on a laptop like
this? Perhaps there is a flex cable that I need to re-seat? or a
jumper that's been flipped?

The laptop had gone in for repair to frys at one point. A tragic
mistake for this family, since they were charged $100 to have a new tip
soldered onto their AC adapter, only to have the AC brick fail a couple
months later. They've been using a PCMCIA card for wifi, and I don't
know when this onboard NIC died, but I just thought I'd check if
anybody knew anything here. Is there anything that can be re-seated?
reconnected? Or is this a case of a permanently dead onboard NIC? (in
which case I wonder what else is busted?)

Thanks Ya'all,
-Ethan

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[Mikey]

Check if it disabled in the bios as well.
Mikey

<hupjack@excite.com> wrote in message
news:1117874602.245699.304850@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

I'm checking out a Toshiba Satellite 1005-S157 for a family friend.

I just restored the sucker from the original software CDs since I
figured the software would be the reason I couldn't see the onboard
network card. It's not in the device manager at all.

Well, even after a full system restore from the toshiba cds, I still
have no onboard NIC showing up. I just looked at the back of the
system, and spotted two LEDs that are crammed in around the RJ45 jack,
so I plugged a live ethernet cable in, but the LEDs didn't light.

So I'm wondering if anybody knows / has any experience with this
hardware. Is the onboard NIC ever a daughter card on a laptop like
this? Perhaps there is a flex cable that I need to re-seat? or a
jumper that's been flipped?

The laptop had gone in for repair to frys at one point. A tragic
mistake for this family, since they were charged $100 to have a new tip
soldered onto their AC adapter, only to have the AC brick fail a couple
months later. They've been using a PCMCIA card for wifi, and I don't
know when this onboard NIC died, but I just thought I'd check if
anybody knew anything here. Is there anything that can be re-seated?
reconnected? Or is this a case of a permanently dead onboard NIC? (in
which case I wonder what else is busted?)

Thanks Ya'all,
-Ethan

 

[Andrew]

In comp.sys.laptops hupjack@excite.com wrote:
: I'm checking out a Toshiba Satellite 1005-S157 for a family friend.

: I just restored the sucker from the original software CDs since I
: figured the software would be the reason I couldn't see the onboard
: network card. It's not in the device manager at all.

: Well, even after a full system restore from the toshiba cds, I still
: have no onboard NIC showing up. I just looked at the back of the
: system, and spotted two LEDs that are crammed in around the RJ45 jack,
: so I plugged a live ethernet cable in, but the LEDs didn't light.

Look at the original specs for the machine. Start at
http://www.csd.toshiba.com/cgi-bin/tais/su/su_sc_modSel.jsp and follow
the links to your model. I just did so, and this model does not even
show an integrated NIC as an original feature! So perhaps it was a
late addition add-on or even a daughter card option as you suggest.

FYI, I just worked on an old IBM Thinkpad for someone and it too had
an ethernet port just like the one you are working on and I, too, wiped
the hard drive and was perplexed that I could not get the Ethernet
port working! Exactly the same problem. In the BIOS setup, I got a
clue when I saw an entry for the NIC card MAC address and it said
"n/a" or something like that. That indicates to me that there was in
fact no NIC installed despite the jack on the back.

So, could be same issue for you.

Could be installed but disconnected in your case as you suggest. I
would unscrew the expansion panels on the bottom of the laptop and see
what you expose (this is usually one screw per panel, easy to do).
Maybe you'll find an empty mini-PCI slot!

Andrew
--
----> Portland, Oregon, USA <----
*******************************************************************
----> http://www.bizave.com <---- Photo Albums and Portland Info
----> To Email me remove "MYSHOES" from email address
*******************************************************************

 

[Clint Sharp]

In message <1117874602.245699.304850@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>,
hupjack@excite.com writes

I'm checking out a Toshiba Satellite 1005-S157 for a family friend.
So I'm wondering if anybody knows / has any experience with this
hardware. Is the onboard NIC ever a daughter card on a laptop like
this? Perhaps there is a flex cable that I need to re-seat? or a
jumper that's been flipped?
Non-specific advice, the NIC can sometimes be on a mini-PCI card, they

can 'jump' out of their socket, that is if it's even fitted, have a look
around the bottom of the machine, if it's an optional part it's either
installed under a screwed on panel (will be obviously a removable panel)
or under the keyboard, you might also want to check if they have ever
used the on-board NIC as many machines have the RJ-45 but have never had
the card installed.

The laptop had gone in for repair to frys at one point. A tragic
mistake for this family, since they were charged $100 to have a new tip
soldered onto their AC adapter, only to have the AC brick fail a couple
months later. They've been using a PCMCIA card for wifi, and I don't
know when this onboard NIC died, but I just thought I'd check if
anybody knew anything here. Is there anything that can be re-seated?
reconnected? Or is this a case of a permanently dead onboard NIC? (in
which case I wonder what else is busted?)

Thanks Ya'all,
-Ethan

--
Clint Sharp

 

[NSM]

"shera" <geri.wendell@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1117894543.477386.49140@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hi Everyone,

I was wondering I need to update my current bios to use my new hard
drive. But the only company I found that offers it says I have to pay
39.00-50.00 to get it. Does anyone know where I could get the file for
alot cheap or for free?
The file I needs is:
Award Modualar Bios v6.00 PC W6167 msv1.6 083000

You can download a program that allows you to do this without upgrading the
BIOS. This must be a very old computer, yes?

N

 

[Andy Cuffe]

On 3 Jun 2005 18:06:59 -0700, ZZactly@aol.com wrote:

No, I don't want to buy one, I want to make one.

You know the sets, the ones that wipe out the power supply every time.
As we know there are several different causes, not which the least is a
CRT, and in these parts we see alot of bad 32", and surprisingly fewer
36".

I too have never seen one that had problems beyond the HOT and power
supply caused by bad soldering in the horizontal drive circuit. I've
seen a few bad flybacks, but they didn't cause repeat HOT failure.

I don't see any reason you can't run it with the CRT socket removed to
rule out the CRT. I've done it before with no problems. The CRT's
H-stat resistor isn't used for HV regulation, or anything critical.
Just keep everything away from the CRT pins and it will be fine.

Try running it with the C of the HOT removed and look at the H drive
wave form. This should tell you right away if there's a drive
problem.

If that doesn't tell you anything, you could probably run it with
reduced B+ to the flyback so that it won't blow the HOT instantly (eg.
insert a power resistor into the B+ line). I'm not sure how the power
supply would handle running on a variac, but you could try that.

Running it with the yoke and CRT socket unplugged would be another way
to reduce the load on the HOT and hopefully allow it to run long
enough to take some measurements.
Andy Cuffe

baltimora@psu.edu <-- Use this address until 12/31/2005

acuffe@gmail.com <-- Use this address after 12/31/2005

 

[philo]

Nehmo Sergheyev wrote:

I have a HP M22 camera http://snipurl.com/fd13 , and here are its power
specs:

"Typical power usage: 1.35 Watts with Image Display on. 2.9 Watts
maximum power usage.
Power sources include the following:
. Either two non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries (included) or two
rechargeable AA NiMH batteries (purchased separately). Rechargeable
batteries can be recharged either in the camera using the optional HP AC
power adapter or optional HP Photosmart M-series dock, or separately in
the optional HP Photosmart Quick Recharger.
. Optional HP AC power adapter (3.3 Vdc, 2500 mA, 8.25 W).
. Optional HP Photosmart M-series dock.
Recharging in camera with the optional HP AC power adapter or optional
HP Photosmart M-series dock: 100% in 15 hours."

HP sells a $50 external power supply for the camera:
HP Photosmart 3.3V AC adapter C8912B http://snipurl.com/fd11 , which
provides 3.3 Volts.

<snip>
although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...

$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
camera and purchase a seperate charger.

it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do

 

[kony]

On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 21:36:27 GMT, "Nehmo Sergheyev"
<nehmo54@hotmail.com> wrote:

I have a HP M22 camera http://snipurl.com/fd13 , and here are its power
specs:

"Typical power usage: 1.35 Watts with Image Display on. 2.9 Watts
maximum power usage.
Power sources include the following:
. Either two non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries (included) or two
rechargeable AA NiMH batteries (purchased separately). Rechargeable
batteries can be recharged either in the camera using the optional HP AC
power adapter or optional HP Photosmart M-series dock, or separately in
the optional HP Photosmart Quick Recharger.
. Optional HP AC power adapter (3.3 Vdc, 2500 mA, 8.25 W).
. Optional HP Photosmart M-series dock.
Recharging in camera with the optional HP AC power adapter or optional
HP Photosmart M-series dock: 100% in 15 hours."

HP sells a $50 external power supply for the camera:
HP Photosmart 3.3V AC adapter C8912B http://snipurl.com/fd11 , which
provides 3.3 Volts.

They overprice it just a wee bit.

A marking on the camera assigns the + polarity to the center connector
of the jack, and it's a small jack.

"Tis the far more common arrangement but it's good that they
marked it.

Q1: What do you call that kind of jack?

Hard to tell from a picture but looks like a typical power
brick barrel, coax plug. Main thing is knowing the external
and internal dimensions in millimeters, and the tiny ones
are harder to measure, and find.

Q2: Computer ATX power supplies have a 3.3 V line. I have some old
unused power supplies (and I can buy them nearby for $5). Can I use an
ATX power supply to power the camera?

It'd be awefully bulky, but it's likely you can. However,
you should put a certain minimum load on the 5V rail to
stabilize the output. A 2 Ohm 10W power resistor should be
sufficient, connected between the 5V rail and ground- either
on one of the leads or inside the PSU if you feel competent
inside a power supply to figure that out- if not I'm not
going to tell you how to do it, but it isn't hard, just
fiddly taking the thing apart to do it.

My understanding of an ATX is that normally one of the 5 V wires is
always on but the rest of the lines are controlled by a soft switch fed
to one of the wires.

Yes 5VSB is always on, as is the PS-On line. You can ignore
the 5VSB and simply short the PS-On to a ground. If you
were opening up the power supply anyway to add the resistor,
I'd suggest drilling a hole in the casing and installing a
switch to short the two wires, turn it on/off.

Q3: What do I do exactly to turn on the power supply? Do I ground pin
14? (http://www.pavouk.comp.cz/hw/en_atxps.html pin out diagram scroll
down)

yes, it's pin 14, usually a green wire.

http://69.36.189.159/usr_1034/atx_on.gif

Q4: Will this camera, or camera's that require 3.3 V in general , work
on the 3 V (setting of the) power supplies like Wal-Mart sells
http://snipurl.com/fd4t?

I don't know.
The camera may have polarity protection, meaning you may
easily need slightly more than 3.0V to get a pair of
batteries charged fully.

The other issue is the current capacity of the supply, the
one you linked doesn't appear to have that listed.

Since the HP supply is spec'd as 2.5 amps, that would be the
general target... the camera might still work on less, maybe
1.5A, but then there's the issue of what the supply does if
it drops below any particular threshold voltage. I'd not
risk a camera with a less than 2A supply, myself.

Q5: I see some universal adapters
http://www.clubmac.com/clubmac/shop/detail~dpno~339148.asp " Equipped
with technology to calculate your camera's voltage " How does it
determine the camera's voltage requirements?

I don't know but I'd go ahead and get one spec'd for 3.3V
instead. Here's one, but you'd need come up with your own
plug for it,

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=480&item=PS-334&type=store

Maybe this'd be helpful,
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=123&item=PLG-6&type=store
but getting good measurements from the jack first would be
best.

Seems like I used to have an old electric shaver and a
microcassette recorder that both used similarly small
connectors, if you have such spare junk lying around it
might provide a part or aid in measurements.

 

[CWatters]

"Nehmo Sergheyev" <nehmo54@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:v9poe.8252$lI2.7908@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...

I have a HP M22 camera http://snipurl.com/fd13 , and here are its power
specs:

"Typical power usage: 1.35 Watts with Image Display on. 2.9 Watts
maximum power usage.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50486&item=7521230305&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

 

[Barry Watzman]

Very good point. My wife had a Satellite 1750, it had a rear RJ45
socket but no NIC card. If you opened it up, the wires from the RJ45
went to a minature connector that went nowhere. The story is, the
motherboard had ONE mini-pci card slot. On some models, it could be used
for a combo modem-NIC card, but on other models they only factory
installed a modem card. The RJ45 socket was still present, but was not
connected. It was an "option".


Andrew wrote:

In comp.sys.laptops hupjack@excite.com wrote:
: I'm checking out a Toshiba Satellite 1005-S157 for a family friend.

: I just restored the sucker from the original software CDs since I
: figured the software would be the reason I couldn't see the onboard
: network card. It's not in the device manager at all.

: Well, even after a full system restore from the toshiba cds, I still
: have no onboard NIC showing up. I just looked at the back of the
: system, and spotted two LEDs that are crammed in around the RJ45 jack,
: so I plugged a live ethernet cable in, but the LEDs didn't light.

Look at the original specs for the machine. Start at
http://www.csd.toshiba.com/cgi-bin/tais/su/su_sc_modSel.jsp and follow
the links to your model. I just did so, and this model does not even
show an integrated NIC as an original feature! So perhaps it was a
late addition add-on or even a daughter card option as you suggest.

FYI, I just worked on an old IBM Thinkpad for someone and it too had
an ethernet port just like the one you are working on and I, too, wiped
the hard drive and was perplexed that I could not get the Ethernet
port working! Exactly the same problem. In the BIOS setup, I got a
clue when I saw an entry for the NIC card MAC address and it said
"n/a" or something like that. That indicates to me that there was in
fact no NIC installed despite the jack on the back.

So, could be same issue for you.

Could be installed but disconnected in your case as you suggest. I
would unscrew the expansion panels on the bottom of the laptop and see
what you expose (this is usually one screw per panel, easy to do).
Maybe you'll find an empty mini-PCI slot!

Andrew
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[Kevin McMurtrie]

Just buy a regulated universal adaptor at Radio Shack or whatever your
local crapy electronics store is. It will cost about $30 and will work
with a lot more than your camera.

Switching power supplies can get twitchy outside of a their normal load
range. I wouldn't connect one to my camera without doing some stability
tests first.

 

[ShepŠ]

On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 17:11:37 -0500 If I have seen farther it is
because I have stood on the shoulder of giants philo
<philo@privacy.net> wrote :

although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...

$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
camera and purchase a seperate charger.

it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do

Not a lot of people know this(In fact I think only me<grin&gt.The two
digi cameras I've had if I leave them connected to the PC after
downloading piccys to the PC get trickle charged by the USB port

Noticed when I left PC on overnight for downloading but left camera
connected and knew batteries were low.Came back on the morrow to find
fully charged Camera

Also I think it's cheaper to buy and use Li-on re-charegable AA
batteries and a good wall charger(Or a PC<BFG>



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