Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Rono]

I beleive there is a fuse problem with these units, where the degaussing
draws too much curent, just at initial startup. Try a "slightly" higher
fuse,
& I think you may have to replace the thermistor, & check back for more
posts attached to yours, to be sure. Rono.

 

[James Jones]

brucekg78@yahoo.com wrote:

Hello People:

I bought an "old school" Presto PopCornNow hot air popper from a thrift
shop last weekend, and I noted that the unit doesn't heat up enough to
pop the kernels.

The motor works fine, but I pulled the unit apart to check the
thermostat, which checked out okay (no resistance). The heating
element glows orange when the popper is plugged in so I know that it's
getting current. However, I believe that it isn't getting hot enough,
so I would like to confirm my choice of bypassing the thermostat to
generate more heat in the element.

If doing this would create a fire hazard, then it's not worth it. (I
can always spring for the $25.00 bucks to get a new popper.)

Go to Target.com and do a search for Toastmaster Hot Air Popcorn Popper.
It sells for $14.99--pretty cheap and much safer for you and your family.

James

 

[JANA]

If you have the on-screen display, this means that there is high voltage,
and maybe proper biasing to all three electron-guns in the CRT. If there is
no on-screen display, this means that there may not be high voltage, or
there may be a bias or drive problem to the CRT. Also, a common problem with
these sets is that a bad CRT will cause the set to have no picture. If there
is a video drive failure on all three colour channels, there will also be no
picture.

An experienced tech should be able to diagnose the basic cause of this fault
in a matter of about 15 to 30 minutes, unless the particular fault is
complex.

--

JANA
_____


"myblubu" <myblubu.1qa29o@news.diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:myblubu.1qa29o@news.diybanter.com...

achan Wrote:

Hi BR,

I am having the same exact problem with my kv-32s40, how did you make
out
and the repair shop.

AC

Achan,

I just started experiencing the EXACT same problem on my kv-32s40
today! Wondering if I should take it to the shop - what did anyone
find out about the cause of the problem and how to fix it (or the cost
to fix it)?


--
myblubu

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

lukon100@hotmail.com wrote:

Thanks electricitym. As for the amp, in the dumpster it goes! No time
to learn al that and fix it.

-Luke-

Maybe better to donate it to a repair shop or trade school - keeps it out of
the landfill and someone might learn something or get some useful parts out
of it.

Mark Z.

 

[Ken Weitzel]

sidneybek@yahoo.com wrote:

One of my really good customers had a belt go on his Maytag washer and
the Maytag part #'s stamped on them were as follows:

2-11124-3
2-11125-2 D

so when I called local belt and bearing supply stores they could not
cross reference those belts but said to bring them in so that they
could physically match them up.I can get them from local appliance
repair parts suppliers but my cost is $22+tx if I can get a generic
cross refence part # & physical specs I could call around those belt
places as pay only $4-7 each.So could anyone give me the generic part #
and specs for both belts?.Thanks.

Sidney
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada

Hi Sidney...

Don't know how helpful this might be, but perhaps worth a
shot...

Broke my (older) Sears snowblower last winter. Tried to
snowblow the neighbor's dog chain. Mere seconds between
snagging the chain in the impeller, lots of smoke, and the
belt was liquid rubber and bits and pieces of some kind of
string stuff.

Called Sears (an 800 number in [I think] Alberta. Told them
the model; young lady told me their part number. Asked her
to let me have one. She said out of stock, would be back
ordered and be about 8 weeks.

Didn't need it badly then; don't have to blow rain

So - talked some more, asked if she could tell me more
about the belt. She did - gave me the "generic" number
that she'd actually order for me. This case an x 3550.

From that it didn't take long at all with auto type guys
to figure out that it was really a standard v belt; and
33.5 inches long.

Only problem then was that 35.5 inches wasn't made anymore,
had to choose between even inches. Tried 35 inches; just
perfect - and even have a couple of spares at 5.79 (cdn)
each

Good news for you is that Sears is a huge distributor of
Maytag stuff; perhaps if you speak nicely enough they'll
do the same for you

I have the 800 number around somewhere, let me know if you
need it and I'll dig it up for you.

And a heads-up... if you get one from cdn tire; v belts are
no longer in the auto department - they have them in a
display in another part of the store (at least here in
Winnipeg).

Hope this might help a bit...

Ken

 

[Art]

Actually there is a different degauss thermistor that is to be used when you
encounter the 'fuse failure syndrome in these sets. Also in Thomson and
Phillips sets, it seems the original degauss thermistor allows too much
current draw during the degauss cycle, over time the fuse just gives up. All
three manufacturers have notations regarding this problem on their
respective web sites, the cures, and part numbers required.
"Rono" <rono@nl.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:gL-dnSg0pKoKBjrfRVn-gg@rogers.com...

I beleive there is a fuse problem with these units, where the degaussing
draws too much curent, just at initial startup. Try a "slightly" higher
fuse,
& I think you may have to replace the thermistor, & check back for more
posts attached to yours, to be sure. Rono.

 

[Bob]

sidneybek@yahoo.com wrote:

One of my really good customers had a belt go on his Maytag washer and
the Maytag part #'s stamped on them were as follows:

2-11124-3
2-11125-2 D

so when I called local belt and bearing supply stores they could not
cross reference those belts but said to bring them in so that they
could physically match them up.I can get them from local appliance
repair parts suppliers but my cost is $22+tx if I can get a generic
cross refence part # & physical specs I could call around those belt
places as pay only $4-7 each.So could anyone give me the generic part #
and specs for both belts?.Thanks.

When I worked in the coin laundry business I had frequent need for these
belts and found no suitable substitute. The spin belt is designed to
slip and the pump belt should be fairly loose. Shop around for a good
price.

 

[James Sweet]

"James Jones" <junebug@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:AaSpe.11580$Hj.3557@lakeread02...

brucekg78@yahoo.com wrote:
Hello People:

I bought an "old school" Presto PopCornNow hot air popper from a thrift
shop last weekend, and I noted that the unit doesn't heat up enough to
pop the kernels.

The motor works fine, but I pulled the unit apart to check the
thermostat, which checked out okay (no resistance). The heating
element glows orange when the popper is plugged in so I know that it's
getting current. However, I believe that it isn't getting hot enough,
so I would like to confirm my choice of bypassing the thermostat to
generate more heat in the element.

If doing this would create a fire hazard, then it's not worth it. (I
can always spring for the $25.00 bucks to get a new popper.)

Go to Target.com and do a search for Toastmaster Hot Air Popcorn Popper.
It sells for $14.99--pretty cheap and much safer for you and your family.

Well first he should make sure the one he already has doesn't actually work
just fine, as I suspect it does.

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

Where do you find it on the Panasonic web site?

The have a notation to replace the thermistor, but I can't find anything
about a different part.

Leonard

"Art" <plotsligt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:a4Sdna_M-MnJbDXfRVn-pA@comcast.com...

Actually there is a different degauss thermistor that is to be used when
you
encounter the 'fuse failure syndrome in these sets. Also in Thomson and
Phillips sets, it seems the original degauss thermistor allows too much
current draw during the degauss cycle, over time the fuse just gives up.
All
three manufacturers have notations regarding this problem on their
respective web sites, the cures, and part numbers required.
"Rono" <rono@nl.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:gL-dnSg0pKoKBjrfRVn-gg@rogers.com...
I beleive there is a fuse problem with these units, where the degaussing
draws too much curent, just at initial startup. Try a "slightly" higher
fuse,
& I think you may have to replace the thermistor, & check back for more
posts attached to yours, to be sure. Rono.

 

[me@privacy.net]

In message <1118411879.289771.98670@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, JJ
Jones <jamesjonathanjones@yahoo.com> writes

We have a weird problem on 2 HP Laserjet IIP printers. If you run a
continuous print-test (Hold down Alt + Test for 5 seconds), the first
page comes out very faint. But each successive page gets darker and
darker until about the 10th page is almost perfect.

It's strange because we've had several of these printers for many years
and now 2 of them are doing the same thing.

I tested their cartridges on a good printer, and the cartridges are
fine, so the cartridge is not the problem.

Does anyone have any ideas of what the problem is? We're trying to get
some idea of the cost of repairing these things, and whether it's
worthwile.

Its almost certainly not worth repairing them. IIRC if you pull down
the front cover and look sort of centre top inside just above the toner
cartridge there is a brightness slider, fiddling with that may help.

--
Timothy

 

[Ben Myers]

My wild guess is that the fuser warms up just enough to make it through the
power-on diagnostic test, but not warm enough to really burn the image onto a
page. With each successive page printed, the fuser gets warmer and warmer. I
suspect either the fuser or the power supply for the fuser.

Though very old and very reliable, these printers are not worth the cost or time
to repair. Next thing you know, another part will wear out. I recommend
replacing with a reconditioned LaserJet 5 or LaserJet 4000 series model. Both
are pretty good on space occupied, both get lots of pages out a single toner
cartridge.

The newer LaserJets (and Dell and Lexmark) are victims of the games now played
by all printer manufacturers. Toner cartridges have low capacity, so your
wallet gets sucked dry replacing cartridges regularly. The printer mfrs have
seen what cash cows the inkjet cartridges are, so they've done the same with
laser printers... Ben Myers

On 10 Jun 2005 06:57:59 -0700, "JJ Jones" <jamesjonathanjones@yahoo.com> wrote:

We have a weird problem on 2 HP Laserjet IIP printers. If you run a
continuous print-test (Hold down Alt + Test for 5 seconds), the first
page comes out very faint. But each successive page gets darker and
darker until about the 10th page is almost perfect.

It's strange because we've had several of these printers for many years
and now 2 of them are doing the same thing.

I tested their cartridges on a good printer, and the cartridges are
fine, so the cartridge is not the problem.

Does anyone have any ideas of what the problem is? We're trying to get
some idea of the cost of repairing these things, and whether it's
worthwile.

 

[Daniel Ganek]

Ben Myers wrote:

My wild guess is that the fuser warms up just enough to make it through the
power-on diagnostic test, but not warm enough to really burn the image onto a
page. With each successive page printed, the fuser gets warmer and warmer. I
suspect either the fuser or the power supply for the fuser.

Though very old and very reliable, these printers are not worth the cost or time
to repair. Next thing you know, another part will wear out. I recommend
replacing with a reconditioned LaserJet 5 or LaserJet 4000 series model. Both
are pretty good on space occupied, both get lots of pages out a single toner
cartridge.

The newer LaserJets (and Dell and Lexmark) are victims of the games now played
by all printer manufacturers. Toner cartridges have low capacity, so your
wallet gets sucked dry replacing cartridges regularly. The printer mfrs have
seen what cash cows the inkjet cartridges are, so they've done the same with
laser printers... Ben Myers

On 10 Jun 2005 06:57:59 -0700, "JJ Jones" <jamesjonathanjones@yahoo.com> wrote:


We have a weird problem on 2 HP Laserjet IIP printers. If you run a
continuous print-test (Hold down Alt + Test for 5 seconds), the first
page comes out very faint. But each successive page gets darker and
darker until about the 10th page is almost perfect.

It's strange because we've had several of these printers for many years
and now 2 of them are doing the same thing.

I tested their cartridges on a good printer, and the cartridges are
fine, so the cartridge is not the problem.

Does anyone have any ideas of what the problem is? We're trying to get
some idea of the cost of repairing these things, and whether it's
worthwile.



I highly recommend the HP 5. They're inexpensive and a real work horse. The 5N has a

built in JetDirect card. A duplexer and large capacity paper tray are also very useful.
Altho, it does come std with a 250 sheet tray (half a ream)

You could replace a number of IIP with a single 5N.

/dan

 

[Andy Hill]

"JJ Jones" <jamesjonathanjones@yahoo.com> wrote:

We have a weird problem on 2 HP Laserjet IIP printers. If you run a
continuous print-test (Hold down Alt + Test for 5 seconds), the first
page comes out very faint. But each successive page gets darker and
darker until about the 10th page is almost perfect.

It's strange because we've had several of these printers for many years
and now 2 of them are doing the same thing.

I tested their cartridges on a good printer, and the cartridges are
fine, so the cartridge is not the problem.

Does anyone have any ideas of what the problem is? We're trying to get
some idea of the cost of repairing these things, and whether it's
worthwile.

Most likely the charge transfer roller. They do deteriorate after a while, and

the symptoms don't sound consistent with a High Voltage PCA or DC Controller PCA
problem. If you do your own labor, it'd probably be worth it -- the part
itself is <$20, IIRC.

 

[David Notley]

"David Notley" <david@playwrite.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message news:...

Hello,
I am looking for a traverse unit and a terminal circuit - ref: cb4 for a
technics sc-dv280
Thanks,
David notley

 

[Tony]

See Andy Hill's reply, that would be my guess too (transfer charge roller),
fairly cheap part and still available. BTW if you change it yourself be sure to
avoid contaminating the roller with oils from your fingers.
Failing that the fuser or power supply are the probable culprits and they would
be very expensive to replace (probably not worth it).
You can be sure that the problem occuring on two printers at the same time is
coincidence since the failure occurs with an internal printer test.
Tony

"JJ Jones" <jamesjonathanjones@yahoo.com> wrote:

We have a weird problem on 2 HP Laserjet IIP printers. If you run a
continuous print-test (Hold down Alt + Test for 5 seconds), the first
page comes out very faint. But each successive page gets darker and
darker until about the 10th page is almost perfect.

It's strange because we've had several of these printers for many years
and now 2 of them are doing the same thing.

I tested their cartridges on a good printer, and the cartridges are
fine, so the cartridge is not the problem.

Does anyone have any ideas of what the problem is? We're trying to get
some idea of the cost of repairing these things, and whether it's
worthwile.

 

[NSM]

<f.patrick.burke@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1118438158.531765.258920@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Do you know the low-level differences between an Intel and AMD chip? Do
you have the skills and desire to deal with top level managers at the
top computer hardware companies in the world? Are you looking to make a
lot more money than you are right now?

Do you know where you are in the Solar system? Might be worth adding.

N

 

[NSM]

<jackbruce9999@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1118440502.677562.89730@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

2 questions about a fully DC Sine Wave

One answer. Sine waves aren't DC.

N

 

[Bob Eldred]

<jackbruce9999@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1118440502.677562.89730@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

2 questions about a fully DC Sine Wave....let's suppose you have a DC
Sine wave which varies from +5V to +15V peak-to-peak going into a load
with R, L, and C components.....

Question #1:
Is the load's impedance a function of R, L, and C (and wave frequency)
or is it simply just R (i.e. Z=R)? In other words does non-resistive
impedance (L + C) really only matter with an AC signal OR anytime
voltage varies periodically (even if it is all DC)?


Question #2:
Would a "regular" negative peak detector ciruit, like shown here:


http://www.elektroda.net/cir/index/Detector%20Circuits/NEGATIVE%20PEAK%20DETECTOR.htmgative


work for the DC Wave described? Will it output +5V or do negative peak
detectors only work for AC signals?

Thank you.

Impedance varies with frequency if there are reactive components, L's and
C's. Since you haven't told us whether this is a series or parallel circuit
of L's, R's and C's, We don't know what the impedance is at DC, zero
frequency or any other frequency for that matter. If it's a parallel circuit
the DC impedance is zero unless there is resistance in series with the L as
is the usual case. In that case, the impedance is R at DC. If it is a series
circuit, the DC impedance is infinite. SO, you have three choices, Zero
ohms, Infinite ohms or R ohms depending on the connection.

A peak detector will have to work on the range of voltages expected on it's
input. I can't get to the URL, sorry.
Bob

 

[Dave]

Bob Eldred wrote:

Impedance varies with frequency if there are reactive components, L's and
C's.

That is not always true.

Take
1) A resistor of resistance R in series with a capacitor of capacitance C.

2) Another identical resistor of resistance R, but in series with an
inductor L.

Make R=sqrt(L/C)

and put 1 and 2 in parallel and measure the impedance across that
combination. The impedance is always R, and is independent of frequency.

A useless fact I would admit!!

 

[Terry]

<jackbruce9999@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1118441581.770052.189710@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

How come? Do you object to the term "DC" - is monophasic acceptable to
you?

Varying DC? i.e. DC varying in amplitude a manner similar to an AC sine

wave.
If it goes into plus and minus regions I guess we are getting pretty close
to an AC waveform?