Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[myblubu]

achan Wrote:

Hi BR,

I am having the same exact problem with my kv-32s40, how did you make
out
and the repair shop.

AC

Achan,

I just started experiencing the EXACT same problem on my kv-32s40
today! Wondering if I should take it to the shop - what did anyone
find out about the cause of the problem and how to fix it (or the cost
to fix it)?


--
myblubu

 

[Travis Jordan]

owenocallaghan@hotmail.com wrote:

What would I need in order to adapt to the downgrade in electrical
power? Will it affect the sound quality? Any specific transformer
suggestion? And would the speakers be okay?

Don't know about the adaptation that is required (it could be as simple
as a different power cord or an adapter if the receiver will accept 120
VAC / 60 hz intead of limey power.

BTW, we here in the Colonies tend to think our power system is an
upgrade from 'yours'.

 

[Jamie]

boese.c@maplan.com wrote:

I bought a 2001 factory cd/ cassette player (not bose) for my
pathfinder to replace my 97 factory cd only player, my question is the
new has 1 more plug, not sure what it is for. Everything powers up,
just no audio.

Thanks
Chad

the extra plug may have been the EQ or possibly a remote mounted amp

plug, it most likely has multiple
connections in it.

 

[James Sweet]

<owenocallaghan@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1118168423.309562.47490@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I have a NAD C370 Amp with a 523 CD Player through some KEF Speakers.
A while ago I moved to the U.S. from London and I am now looking to
have my stereo sent over.

What would I need in order to adapt to the downgrade in electrical
power? Will it affect the sound quality? Any specific transformer
suggestion? And would the speakers be okay?

You may be lucky enough to have power transformers with multiple taps,
otherwise you can get a 120>240 autotransformer and run the stuff off that,
I've seen them on ebay, and last I checked www.usamfg.net had some.

 

[Jim Adney]

On 7 Jun 2005 17:50:54 -0700 sidneybek@yahoo.com wrote:

1)Can I use a 25 watt (180 ohms) wire wound resistor in place of a 20
watt cement (180 ohms)?

I'm guessing that what you're calling a "cement" resistor is what some
people refer to as a "sandbox" resistor. It looks like a little cast
hollow box into which someone dropped some kind of resistor and them
cemented it in place with some sort of ceramic-like material.

If this is what you are trying to replace then you should know that
most of these are just another form of wire wound resistor, and
replacing it with a different form of wirewound should be fine as long
as the wattage is as high or higher than the original.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[NSM]

<owenocallaghan@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1118168423.309562.47490@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I have a NAD C370 Amp with a 523 CD Player through some KEF Speakers.
A while ago I moved to the U.S. from London and I am now looking to
have my stereo sent over.

What would I need in order to adapt to the downgrade in electrical
power? Will it affect the sound quality? Any specific transformer
suggestion? And would the speakers be okay?

Shouldn't be a problem. More than a few places can sell you a transformer to
run your gear off the obsolete N. American system (even Radio Shack has a
small one - 40 W). Going back the other way can result in many problems
however.


N

 

[JR North]

What could possibly make you think a 2001 head would just plug right
into your '97?
JR

boese.c@maplan.com wrote:

I bought a 2001 factory cd/ cassette player (not bose) for my
pathfinder to replace my 97 factory cd only player, my question is the
new has 1 more plug, not sure what it is for. Everything powers up,
just no audio.

Thanks
Chad

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

 

[James Sweet]

"JR North" <jasonrnorth@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:nbqdnW99lIWGwTvfRVn-2A@seanet.com...

What could possibly make you think a 2001 head would just plug right
into your '97?
JR

In many cars they will.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1118168423.309562.47490@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
<owenocallaghan@hotmail.com> wrote:

I have a NAD C370 Amp with a 523 CD Player through some KEF Speakers.
A while ago I moved to the U.S. from London and I am now looking to
have my stereo sent over.

I have an NAD amp here in the UK, and it is internally adjustable to 110
volts. Dunno if this applies across the range, though.

What would I need in order to adapt to the downgrade in electrical
power? Will it affect the sound quality? Any specific transformer
suggestion? And would the speakers be okay?

The normal way would be to use an auto transformer to get the 240 volts.
But it may be cheaper to sell your gear in the UK and replace it with
similar US spec - thus saving the cost of the transformer and the carriage
costs.

The speakers will be fine - as unless they have built in power amps (ie,
have a mains connection too) don't have any reference to the mains.

--
*He's not dead - he's electroencephalographically challenged

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Art]

Is there any On Screen Display at all? Any indication of High Voltage being
generated? Has there been dfnative diagnostics preformed on theteles yet
that you may post to this N/G?
"myblubu" <myblubu.1qa29o@news.diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:myblubu.1qa29o@news.diybanter.com...

achan Wrote:
Hi BR,

I am having the same exact problem with my kv-32s40, how did you make
out
and the repair shop.

AC


Achan,

I just started experiencing the EXACT same problem on my kv-32s40
today! Wondering if I should take it to the shop - what did anyone
find out about the cause of the problem and how to fix it (or the cost
to fix it)?


--
myblubu

 

[Ken Weitzel]

brucekg78@yahoo.com wrote:

Hello People:

I bought an "old school" Presto PopCornNow hot air popper from a thrift
shop last weekend, and I noted that the unit doesn't heat up enough to
pop the kernels.

The motor works fine, but I pulled the unit apart to check the
thermostat, which checked out okay (no resistance). The heating
element glows orange when the popper is plugged in so I know that it's
getting current. However, I believe that it isn't getting hot enough,
so I would like to confirm my choice of bypassing the thermostat to
generate more heat in the element.

If doing this would create a fire hazard, then it's not worth it. (I
can always spring for the $25.00 bucks to get a new popper.) On the
other hand, I know that coffee aficionados do this sort of thing with
hot air poppers all the time to tweak them for roasting coffee beans.
Will it work for popcorn kernels, or just burn them before they pop out
of the popper?

Thanks for your feedback,

Hi Bruce...

Please do yourself and your family a favor, and
don't even think about bypassing or even tampering
with the thermostat!

If the element is glowing it's working fine... are you
sure you're not just a little too anxious for the popcorn?
(it's not instant popping, you must wait a bit)

Take care - safety first.

Ken

 

[Mike Berger]

Remove the icemaker and thaw it out. If ice is jammed in the
wrong spot, it can keep it from dispensing.


Gman wrote:

I have a Whirlpool Estate series refrigerator with ice maker. The ice
maker makes ice, but it no longer dispenses it. I can tell that the
switch is not activated when the ice release lever is pressed. I also
can't see how to get to the circuitry inside the freezer door, which is
where I assume it is. Any help on either diagnosing the problem or
getting the cover off the circuitry would be appreciated.

GMan

 

[Art]

Overload or a very nasty switching spike? Post your total diagnostics and
required repair component information. Rather interesting.
<bandyaggroup@yahoo.co.in> wrote in message
news:1118237850.504947.27240@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

hello,
i had a merlin gerin 5 kva 31 series model ups for 3 phase to 1 phase.
the arrangement from company manual said that the optional isolation
transformer shall be at output side of ups it means a single phase 1:1
ratio xformer at ups output but by some ignorance i had a design as a
3:3 phase isolation Xformer at UPS input. The fuses inside ups are
10amp per phase and the battery is connected externally to have greater

back up times and charged by external charger which takes three phase
input from primary of isolation Xformer.
Odd enough!


the transfomrer burnt and this has to be investigated. the indications
on ups diagnostics were
unit was on static bypass
units mains fuses were blown (we found r and b phase fuses were blown)
units internal charger orand rectifier is/are damaged(internal charger
was disabled i dont know how but internal ups battery and charger can
support up to 8 mins so were disconneced by local supplier and this
external battery with charger were added, battery was 60 amps each
total 180 volts etc 12 * 15 may be)
my Ac input is 440 volts delta and 230 volts in phase Neutral 50 hz.
isolation Xformer is delta to star.
the meger test showed insulation failure in Y phase for the Xformer
primary and secondary.
Dhananjay

 

[Art]

Agreed!! The thermo cutout is there for a very specific reason, for you and
others protection if the device indeed does overheat. Servicing it would
probably not be worth the effort or the risk. These take a couple of minutes
to produce enough thermal energy to actually pop the corn kernels. I have
one of these items, love it, but will not attempt servicing it.
"Ken Weitzel" <kweitzel@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:btDpe.1600219$8l.1315580@pd7tw1no...

brucekg78@yahoo.com wrote:

Hello People:

I bought an "old school" Presto PopCornNow hot air popper from a thrift
shop last weekend, and I noted that the unit doesn't heat up enough to
pop the kernels.

The motor works fine, but I pulled the unit apart to check the
thermostat, which checked out okay (no resistance). The heating
element glows orange when the popper is plugged in so I know that it's
getting current. However, I believe that it isn't getting hot enough,
so I would like to confirm my choice of bypassing the thermostat to
generate more heat in the element.

If doing this would create a fire hazard, then it's not worth it. (I
can always spring for the $25.00 bucks to get a new popper.) On the
other hand, I know that coffee aficionados do this sort of thing with
hot air poppers all the time to tweak them for roasting coffee beans.
Will it work for popcorn kernels, or just burn them before they pop out
of the popper?

Thanks for your feedback,


Hi Bruce...

Please do yourself and your family a favor, and
don't even think about bypassing or even tampering
with the thermostat!

If the element is glowing it's working fine... are you
sure you're not just a little too anxious for the popcorn?
(it's not instant popping, you must wait a bit)

Take care - safety first.

Ken

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

brucekg78@yahoo.com writes:

Hello People:

I bought an "old school" Presto PopCornNow hot air popper from a thrift
shop last weekend, and I noted that the unit doesn't heat up enough to
pop the kernels.

The motor works fine, but I pulled the unit apart to check the
thermostat, which checked out okay (no resistance). The heating
element glows orange when the popper is plugged in so I know that it's
getting current. However, I believe that it isn't getting hot enough,
so I would like to confirm my choice of bypassing the thermostat to
generate more heat in the element.

If doing this would create a fire hazard, then it's not worth it. (I
can always spring for the $25.00 bucks to get a new popper.) On the
other hand, I know that coffee aficionados do this sort of thing with
hot air poppers all the time to tweak them for roasting coffee beans.
Will it work for popcorn kernels, or just burn them before they pop out
of the popper?

Of course there is a fire hazard if you bypass the thermostat.

But, did you wait long enough for the cord to pop and not overload it?

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[NSM]

<brucekg78@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1118237751.849835.25860@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

However, I believe that it isn't getting hot enough,
so I would like to confirm my choice of bypassing the thermostat to
generate more heat in the element.

Don't even think about doing this. Try http://freecycle.org and maybe
someone local has one you can have for free.

N

 

[NSM]

<bandyaggroup@yahoo.co.in> wrote in message
news:1118237850.504947.27240@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

the transfomrer burnt and this has to be investigated.

Too many volts. Too many amps. Too few cycles. DC running through windings.
Those are the reasons to look for.

N

 

[James Sweet]

<Hoser1510@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1118203546.832714.120320@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

boese.c@maplan.com wrote:
I bought a 2001 factory cd/ cassette player (not bose) for my
pathfinder to replace my 97 factory cd only player, my question is the
new has 1 more plug, not sure what it is for. Everything powers up,
just no audio.

Thanks
Chad

Some cars have controls on the steering wheel to control the radio.
This extra plug may be for that or for an optional external amp.

The best thing to do would be to find a 2001 with the same radio and have a
look, it's possible a service manual might show it as well.

 

[James Sweet]

<brucekg78@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1118237751.849835.25860@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

Hello People:

I bought an "old school" Presto PopCornNow hot air popper from a thrift
shop last weekend, and I noted that the unit doesn't heat up enough to
pop the kernels.

The motor works fine, but I pulled the unit apart to check the
thermostat, which checked out okay (no resistance). The heating
element glows orange when the popper is plugged in so I know that it's
getting current. However, I believe that it isn't getting hot enough,
so I would like to confirm my choice of bypassing the thermostat to
generate more heat in the element.

If doing this would create a fire hazard, then it's not worth it. (I
can always spring for the $25.00 bucks to get a new popper.) On the
other hand, I know that coffee aficionados do this sort of thing with
hot air poppers all the time to tweak them for roasting coffee beans.
Will it work for popcorn kernels, or just burn them before they pop out
of the popper?

Thanks for your feedback,

NEVER bypass the thermostat, as someone else said, if the element is glowing
then it's hot enough. We had one of these units when I was a kid, and as I
recall it took about 10 minutes to heat up to the point where the corn would
start to pop. It's possible you have insufficient airflow if it still
doesn't work.

 

[James Sweet]

"Emilio" <emilio@mocorp.net> wrote in message
news:1118272674.739628.298930@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

HI everyone,

I recently started experiencing problems with the colors in my
Mitsubishi 1080. It's an intermittent problem; suddenly the image will
warp a pinch and all the colors seem missaligned. Two seconds later it
will come back and look fine again. The TV might stay fine for a few
hours but the problem comes back. I seem to experience the problem
more when the TV is "cold" meaning it was just turned on.

I was wondering if anyone knows what the problem is and if it can be
fixed at home by a service man. Also if anyone is a technician... how
much should this be in a fair market price?

Thanks to everyone for their help.

-Emilio

At this point it sounds like a simple case of resoldering cracked joints on
or near the convergence IC's. I suggest you stop using it until you get it
fixed, otherwise you can blow out some rather expensive chips.