Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[kony]

On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 16:13:23 -0700, Kevin McMurtrie
<mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote:

Just buy a regulated universal adaptor at Radio Shack or whatever your
local crapy electronics store is. It will cost about $30 and will work
with a lot more than your camera.

Switching power supplies can get twitchy outside of a their normal load
range. I wouldn't connect one to my camera without doing some stability
tests first.

You're not likely to find a non-switching regulated adapter
worth the 2.5A of the one HP sells, and certainly not at
$30. Almost all semi-regulated adapter in smaller forms
supplying 1.5A or more will be switching.

 

[Al Dykes]

In article <svadnX-swLeEuj_fRVn-sQ@athenet.net>,
philo <philo@privacy.net> wrote:

Nehmo Sergheyev wrote:
I have a HP M22 camera http://snipurl.com/fd13 , and here are its power
specs:

"Typical power usage: 1.35 Watts with Image Display on. 2.9 Watts
maximum power usage.
Power sources include the following:
. Either two non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries (included) or two
rechargeable AA NiMH batteries (purchased separately). Rechargeable
batteries can be recharged either in the camera using the optional HP AC
power adapter or optional HP Photosmart M-series dock, or separately in
the optional HP Photosmart Quick Recharger.
. Optional HP AC power adapter (3.3 Vdc, 2500 mA, 8.25 W).
. Optional HP Photosmart M-series dock.
Recharging in camera with the optional HP AC power adapter or optional
HP Photosmart M-series dock: 100% in 15 hours."

HP sells a $50 external power supply for the camera:
HP Photosmart 3.3V AC adapter C8912B http://snipurl.com/fd11 , which
provides 3.3 Volts.

snip
although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...

$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
camera and purchase a seperate charger.

it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do

A PC power supply needs a minimum load so it won't power just
your camera. I also don't know how you'd turn it on since
it's controlled from the mobo.

Look for a power supply on ebay or go to Radio Shack. They sell
wall warts in all sorts of sizes.



--
a d y k e s @ p a n i x . c o m

Don't blame me. I voted for Gore.

 

[hemyd]

"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message news:yU9oe.32683$wr.24253@clgrps12...

"Dwayne" <fake@email.com> wrote in message
news:3z6oe.1563332$Xk.762688@pd7tw3no...
esoroka@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1117844049.979105.188200@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Anybody know the difference between the words:
a) Refurbished

The device was broken when it left the factory, it was sent back to be
fixed. Now it's back in the store

The tech took a quick look and didn't bother to fix it.

b) Reconditioned
I'm not sure about this one. Probably a cosmetic fix.

The tech cleaned the cabinet and didn't bother to fix it.

c) Remanufactured

There was a flaw in the design. It was corrected and signed off by a
engineer. Then the device was fixed by the manufacturer.

The tech replaced a fuse but otherwise didn't bother to fix it.

d) Rebuild

The device broke and some 3rd party fixed it. Think engine rebuild -
taken
apart and all worn & broken parts were replaced.

The tech put a new cord on it but otherwise didn't bother to fix it.

N


It's a cynical view, but one I fully agree with. When I started my job as a

typewriter technician at IBM in 1975 we were offering a reconditioning
service which involved the replacement of all wearable components. The
service was quite expensive, but you ended up with an as-new typewriter.

At about that time some other companies offered a much cheaper
"refurbishing" service. They'd put the typewriter through a solvent bath,
then re-lubricate it - that was that! You ended up with a machine which
looked brand spanking new - but was a worn out old heap of junk.

Whatever the service being offered - refurbishing, reconditioning, etc., I'd
want to know exactly what work was done, and some guarrantee of such work.

Henry.

 

[Kevin McMurtrie]

In article <14g4a19cro3eb0detrrbaofgest8dhlmja@4ax.com>,
kony <spam@spam.com> wrote:

On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 16:13:23 -0700, Kevin McMurtrie
mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote:

Just buy a regulated universal adaptor at Radio Shack or whatever your
local crapy electronics store is. It will cost about $30 and will work
with a lot more than your camera.

Switching power supplies can get twitchy outside of a their normal load
range. I wouldn't connect one to my camera without doing some stability
tests first.

You're not likely to find a non-switching regulated adapter
worth the 2.5A of the one HP sells, and certainly not at
$30. Almost all semi-regulated adapter in smaller forms
supplying 1.5A or more will be switching.

I didn't say that a switching power supply was bad. Nearly all of the
good wall warts are of that kind. The problem is that switching power
supplies are unstable by nature so they sometimes have an operating load
range. An computer power supply designed to deliver 3.3v @ 10A to 50A
might not be stable with a load that varies from 1mA to 1500mA.

 

[NSM]

"hemyd" <myd!!!hen@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:42a2641e$0$11958$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...

It's a cynical view, but one I fully agree with. When I started my job as
a
typewriter technician at IBM in 1975 we were offering a reconditioning
service which involved the replacement of all wearable components. The
service was quite expensive, but you ended up with an as-new typewriter.

At about that time some other companies offered a much cheaper
"refurbishing" service. They'd put the typewriter through a solvent bath,
then re-lubricate it - that was that! You ended up with a machine which
looked brand spanking new - but was a worn out old heap of junk.

Whatever the service being offered - refurbishing, reconditioning, etc.,
I'd
want to know exactly what work was done, and some guarrantee of such work.

I bought a 'refurbished' printer from DAK which jammed up. I found an
oversized paper clip had jammed in the gears and stripped them. Nice work.

N

 

[NSM]

<tbusky@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1117940738.652358.324960@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hello,
I have a Radio Shack Amplified VHF/UHF antenna RS 15-2181 that is
missing the power supply/interface module. Does Radio Shack make all
their adapters the same so I could use any adapter from any remote
amplifier? Does anyone have a schematic for the adapter? What is the
voltage that is injected onto the COAX? Could I inject the power
directly into the amplifier in the antenna with a direct power
connection (not through the coax)? The antenna is attic mounted so I
don't have to worry about weather.
Thanks for any input or ideas,
Ted

Catalog # 15-2181 Bidirectional "Swept-Wing" Antenna for Local TV Channels

Owner's Manual
http://support.radioshack.com/support_video/doc66/66676.pdf

Detailed Parts List
http://support.radioshack.com/support_video/doc68/68446.htm


N

 

[Andy Cuffe]

On 2 Jun 2005 18:24:47 -0700, FarmerChanning@gmail.com wrote:

I've been having some odd problems with my 21" IBM P260 since I got it
used but recently they've been worse. After its turned on it will
sometimes cycle its focus. slowly getting fuzzy to the point where its
unreadable and then snap back to normal focus right after, only to do
the same again and again. Other times it will quickly go blury and
click back to normal, making a loud pop noise when the focus returns.

As far as I can figure it might be a ground problem, some build up of
static charge or maybe a loose wire. Repair advice and help welcome.

I've seen a LOT of 19" and 21" Sony monitors with bad CRTs causing
intermittent focus. Is it a flat screen with a Trinitron CRT? If so,
it's probably made by Sony and has a bad CRT.
Andy Cuffe

baltimora@psu.edu <-- Use this address until 12/31/2005

acuffe@gmail.com <-- Use this address after 12/31/2005

 

[James Sweet]

"Al Dykes" <adykes@panix.com> wrote in message
news:d7tjlb$qbp$1@panix5.panix.com...

In article <svadnX-swLeEuj_fRVn-sQ@athenet.net>,
philo <philo@privacy.net> wrote:
Nehmo Sergheyev wrote:
I have a HP M22 camera http://snipurl.com/fd13 , and here are its power
specs:

"Typical power usage: 1.35 Watts with Image Display on. 2.9 Watts
maximum power usage.
Power sources include the following:
. Either two non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries (included) or two
rechargeable AA NiMH batteries (purchased separately). Rechargeable
batteries can be recharged either in the camera using the optional HP
AC
power adapter or optional HP Photosmart M-series dock, or separately in
the optional HP Photosmart Quick Recharger.
. Optional HP AC power adapter (3.3 Vdc, 2500 mA, 8.25 W).
. Optional HP Photosmart M-series dock.
Recharging in camera with the optional HP AC power adapter or optional
HP Photosmart M-series dock: 100% in 15 hours."

HP sells a $50 external power supply for the camera:
HP Photosmart 3.3V AC adapter C8912B http://snipurl.com/fd11 , which
provides 3.3 Volts.

snip
although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...

$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
camera and purchase a seperate charger.

it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do

I think I have some random 3.3v SMPS "wall wart" type AC adapters, you'd
probably have to put your own plug on it but if you want one I'd be happy to
send one for a couple bucks to cover packing plus postage.

 

[Wild Bill]

I forgot to mench.. if you could find an electronics dealer that used to
install C-band satellite dishes, they might still have some, as the Ns were
used in early versions with separate downconverters

Cheers
WB
...............

<kellrobinson@billburg.com> wrote in message
news:1117644473.596511.259090@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

I need a female N bulkead connector, the kind with a flange with four
holes. I don't want to pay $7 shipping on a $3 item. Is there a
place
in New York City where I can buy them?

Find a store that stocks "Ham Radio" supplies ... there's bound to be
one ... even in NYC.

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

 

[mike]

ShepŠ wrote:

On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 17:11:37 -0500 If I have seen farther it is
because I have stood on the shoulder of giants philo
philo@privacy.net> wrote :



although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...

$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
camera and purchase a seperate charger.

it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do


Not a lot of people know this(In fact I think only me<grin&gt.The two
digi cameras I've had if I leave them connected to the PC after
downloading piccys to the PC get trickle charged by the USB port

Noticed when I left PC on overnight for downloading but left camera
connected and knew batteries were low.Came back on the morrow to find
fully charged Camera

Also I think it's cheaper to buy and use Li-on re-charegable AA
batteries and a good wall charger(Or a PC<BFG>

Please disclose your source for Li-on re-chargeable AA batteries
and a charger for same. Please also disclose the prices you've been
paying and your actual personal experience with the setup.
Thanks, mike


--
Return address is VALID but some sites block emails
with links. Delete this sig when replying.
..
Wanted, PCMCIA SCSI Card for HP m820 CDRW.
FS 500MHz Tek DSOscilloscope TDS540 Make Offer
Wanted 12" LCD for Compaq Armada 7770MT.
Bunch of stuff For Sale and Wanted at the link below.
MAKE THE OBVIOUS CHANGES TO THE LINK
ht<removethis>tp://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Monitor/4710/

 

[philo]

Al Dykes wrote:

snip
although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...

$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
camera and purchase a seperate charger.

it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do


A PC power supply needs a minimum load so it won't power just
your camera. I also don't know how you'd turn it on since
it's controlled from the mobo.

to turn on an ATX supply all you need to do is touch the green wire to
ground...
but i still would not adivse doing such

Look for a power supply on ebay or go to Radio Shack. They sell
wall warts in all sorts of sizes.

 

[kony]

On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 19:49:00 -0700, Kevin McMurtrie
<mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote:

Switching power supplies can get twitchy outside of a their normal load
range. I wouldn't connect one to my camera without doing some stability
tests first.

You're not likely to find a non-switching regulated adapter
worth the 2.5A of the one HP sells, and certainly not at
$30. Almost all semi-regulated adapter in smaller forms
supplying 1.5A or more will be switching.

I didn't say that a switching power supply was bad. Nearly all of the
good wall warts are of that kind. The problem is that switching power
supplies are unstable by nature so they sometimes have an operating load
range. An computer power supply designed to deliver 3.3v @ 10A to 50A
might not be stable with a load that varies from 1mA to 1500mA.

Ah, I misinterpreted what you wrote. That's true, normally
one puts a ~ 2A load on the 5V rail to ensure stabilization,
but it gets much more risky with open-frame swichers, those
not intended for non-integrated usage, not to be hot-plugged
(not that any are, but those with consumer-gear external
cords tend to be designed with such events in mind).

 

[ShepŠ]

On Sun, 05 Jun 2005 00:57:18 -0700 If I have seen farther it is
because I have stood on the shoulder of giants mike
<spamme0@netscape.net> wrote :

ShepŠ wrote:
On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 17:11:37 -0500 If I have seen farther it is
because I have stood on the shoulder of giants philo
philo@privacy.net> wrote :



although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...

$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
camera and purchase a seperate charger.

it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do


Not a lot of people know this(In fact I think only me<grin&gt.The two
digi cameras I've had if I leave them connected to the PC after
downloading piccys to the PC get trickle charged by the USB port

Noticed when I left PC on overnight for downloading but left camera
connected and knew batteries were low.Came back on the morrow to find
fully charged Camera

Also I think it's cheaper to buy and use Li-on re-charegable AA
batteries and a good wall charger(Or a PC<BFG>

Please disclose your source for Li-on re-chargeable AA batteries
and a charger for same. Please also disclose the prices you've been
paying and your actual personal experience with the setup.
Thanks, mike

Sorry.My mistake they are the Nickel Metal Hydride type which are
still better than the old Ni-cads.

They are the newer common colour Green type in the UK and you can get
them quite a few places.I bought some and a fast charger at a local
market but also, ebay,
http://search.ebay.co.uk/aa-rechargeable-batteries_W0QQsojsZ1QQfromZR40
They don't suffer from the old memory problem of the ni-cads AFAIK

I now have a habit of leaving my digi camera at the side of my PC
plugged in for a session after downloading piccys and the haven't used
the wall charger for ages for the camera



--
Free Windows/PC help,
http://www.geocities.com/sheppola/trouble.html

 

[ShepŠ]

On Sun, 05 Jun 2005 18:48:35 +0100 If I have seen farther it is
because I have stood on the shoulder of giants ShepŠ
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote :

On Sun, 05 Jun 2005 00:57:18 -0700 If I have seen farther it is
because I have stood on the shoulder of giants mike
spamme0@netscape.net> wrote :

ShepŠ wrote:
On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 17:11:37 -0500 If I have seen farther it is
because I have stood on the shoulder of giants philo
philo@privacy.net> wrote :



although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...

$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
camera and purchase a seperate charger.

it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do


Not a lot of people know this(In fact I think only me<grin&gt.The two
digi cameras I've had if I leave them connected to the PC after
downloading piccys to the PC get trickle charged by the USB port

Noticed when I left PC on overnight for downloading but left camera
connected and knew batteries were low.Came back on the morrow to find
fully charged Camera

Also I think it's cheaper to buy and use Li-on re-charegable AA
batteries and a good wall charger(Or a PC<BFG>

Please disclose your source for Li-on re-chargeable AA batteries
and a charger for same. Please also disclose the prices you've been
paying and your actual personal experience with the setup.
Thanks, mike

Sorry.My mistake they are the Nickel Metal Hydride type which are
still better than the old Ni-cads.

They are the newer common colour Green type in the UK and you can get
them quite a few places.I bought some and a fast charger at a local
market but also, ebay,
http://search.ebay.co.uk/aa-rechargeable-batteries_W0QQsojsZ1QQfromZR40
They don't suffer from the old memory problem of the ni-cads AFAIK

I now have a habit of leaving my digi camera at the side of my PC
plugged in for a session after downloading piccys and the haven't used
the wall charger for ages for the camera

PS I got the 2500Mh ones



--
Free Windows/PC help,
http://www.geocities.com/sheppola/trouble.html

 

[James Sweet]

<robert.marianchuk@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1117986276.011352.202160@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

I have a deh-p4000 head unit. Last time it worked I ejected a cd to
put another one in. When i tried to put the new cd in it didn't
reconize the cd player at all. There is a function button on the unit
that selects
tuner , mcd, and cd. The tuner comes up, Mcd (changer) comes up, but
the cd player for the head unit doesn't. It used to come up even when a
cd was not in the unit. ACK ! I can force the cd in and hit eject and
it ejects fine. The funniest thing is the function button not bringing
up the cd player. Its like it just decided it wasn't there.

Try completely disconnecting power for a few minutes then hook it back up.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <42a2641e$0$11958$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au>,
hemyd <myd!!!hen@optusnet.com.au> wrote:

It's a cynical view, but one I fully agree with. When I started my job
as a typewriter technician at IBM in 1975 we were offering a
reconditioning service which involved the replacement of all wearable
components. The service was quite expensive, but you ended up with an
as-new typewriter.

At about that time some other companies offered a much cheaper
"refurbishing" service. They'd put the typewriter through a solvent
bath, then re-lubricate it - that was that! You ended up with a machine
which looked brand spanking new - but was a worn out old heap of junk.

Whatever the service being offered - refurbishing, reconditioning, etc.,
I'd want to know exactly what work was done, and some guarrantee of
such work.

The fact is that most things like consumer electronics these days are made
in near fully automated factories - and perhaps in low wage countries.

So to strip and fully recondition them then reassemble could well cost
more in labour than a new one. Some things you *know* will deteriorate
with age - CRTs etc. And capacitors. But much solid state electronics
doesn't have a defined life. The solder however may well have.

--
*Generally speaking, you aren't learning much if your lips are moving.*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Chief Suspect]

In article <d7tjlb$qbp$1@panix5.panix.com>, adykes@panix.com says...

a d y k e s @ p a n i x . c o m

Don't blame me. I voted for Gore.

==============

OT, but just had to comment. It is indeed your fault. You should have
voted for somebody else entirely, like I did. Enough of those, and we
would have won. Bush and Gore BOTH were losers! There were other
choices.

 

[Travis Jordan]

tbusky@sbcglobal.net wrote:

Hello,
I have a Radio Shack Amplified VHF/UHF antenna RS 15-2181 that is
missing the power supply/interface module. Does Radio Shack make all
their adapters the same so I could use any adapter from any remote
amplifier? Does anyone have a schematic for the adapter? What is the
voltage that is injected onto the COAX?

Looking at the physical configuration and specifications of their
various products, my guess is that RS amplifier power injectors /
supplies are interchangeable; @12VDC supply voltage.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F002%5F004%5F004%5F000&product%5Fid=15%2D1170

Could I inject the power
directly into the amplifier in the antenna with a direct power
connection (not through the coax)?

Don't know - is there a separate isolated dc input connection there?

 

[Art]

Diagnostics would be an assistance to help us assist you. Lousy solder
connections in the power supplies, deflection circuits, etc. Seen many of
the SONY sets here in the US having very poor connections at the LOPT,
H-Driver XFMR, Etc. Cheers
"Dean" <enjoy6@netspace.net.au> wrote in message
news:1117972739.272752.73800@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hi guys , I was wondering if anyone can lead me in the right direction
before I tackle a repair , I have a Sony KV-2566as television with
sound but no picture , I think it might be a faulty EHT but I have my
suspiscions it might be an over voltage protection zener that has gone
S/C , regards

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 21:36:27 GMT, "Nehmo Sergheyev"
<nehmo54@hotmail.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

I have a HP M22 camera http://snipurl.com/fd13 , and here are its power
specs:

"Typical power usage: 1.35 Watts with Image Display on. 2.9 Watts
maximum power usage.
Power sources include the following:
. Either two non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries (included) or two
rechargeable AA NiMH batteries (purchased separately). Rechargeable
batteries can be recharged either in the camera using the optional HP AC
power adapter or optional HP Photosmart M-series dock, or separately in
the optional HP Photosmart Quick Recharger.
. Optional HP AC power adapter (3.3 Vdc, 2500 mA, 8.25 W).
. Optional HP Photosmart M-series dock.
Recharging in camera with the optional HP AC power adapter or optional
HP Photosmart M-series dock: 100% in 15 hours."

HP sells a $50 external power supply for the camera:
HP Photosmart 3.3V AC adapter C8912B http://snipurl.com/fd11 , which
provides 3.3 Volts.

A marking on the camera assigns the + polarity to the center connector
of the jack, and it's a small jack.

Q1: What do you call that kind of jack?

EIAJ DC plug?
http://wagner.net.au/Catalogue/07_15.pdf

Q2: Computer ATX power supplies have a 3.3 V line. I have some old
unused power supplies (and I can buy them nearby for $5). Can I use an
ATX power supply to power the camera?

I'd modify my PC by locating a spare 3.3V plug on my PSU and running a
cable to a slot bracket in an empty slot, or to a hole in the case, or
to an unused 5.25" bay.

WARNING: If you try this, I'd first ensure that the camera's USB
ground and supply negative are at the same potential, otherwise you
may damage your camera if you have both cables connected at the same
time. You can do this by connecting a dummy plug to the DC socket. Use
a DMM to test for continuity between the two grounds. Remove the
batteries while doing this.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.