Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Good advice. Best to replace a broken isolation block unless you clearly
understand its function. Even then it is hardly worth the effort.

Leonard

<dkuhajda@locl.net> wrote in message
news:1117661284.545675.259190@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
You simply need to order and replace the antenna isolation block.
Between $7.00 and $20. Looks like the one you have solders to the main
board with 4 large tabs.

MCM Electronics has several as well as MAT electronics. I would not
bother with trying to repair the broken block due to the low cost, easy
availability, and safety aspects of the part.

David

nick2004@gmail.com wrote:
I just moved and in doing so my TV was damaged. The cable was ripped
out of the back and part of the TV (where you screw in the cable) came
with it.

I have pictures of the part that was damaged but I don't know what it
is or where to buy a part to replace it. Help!!

See pictures below - it's the shiny silver box with a hole in it.

http://207.54.123.12/TV_1.jpg
http://207.54.123.12/TV_2.jpg
http://207.54.123.12/TV_3.jpg
http://207.54.123.12/TV_4.jpg
 
"Ron" <rcoonjr@buckeye-express.com> wrote in message
news:1117636057.088074.145800@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
grr.. I posted two pictures and it didn't post to the groups...

ht**tp://nnl.darktech.org/tv/tv_01.jpg
ht**tp://nnl.darktech.org/tv/tv_02.jpg

Remove the ** of course..

--Ron
That's pretty screwy, at any rate horizontal deflection is fine, it's
obviously a vertical problem of some sort, actually pretty likely the
vertical output IC is toast, the vertical deflection you are getting could
be from the convergence yokes.
 
What is the model number?


<pinball77@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1117672137.104515.43240@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
| hello, Ive owned this set since 1997. Its teh 40" tube set. Recently
| the pic has taken a while to focus. Today the pic is completely out of
| focus and their is a loud cracking/arcing sound from the back . I was
| wondering if their is a way to tell if its the picture tube or flyback
| . Is their a source for these flybacks if it is bad. Is the set worth
| fixing? Any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance! JOhn Ross
|
 
"moonlite" <elect21st@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1117691508.193324.200340@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hi- I have a CTC185AB4 chassis. The 5 amp. fuse was blown, the HOT was
shorted as well as the regulator Q4114. My testing of the Flyback is
inconclusive. I installed the regulator kit, but I'm afraid to turn it
on and blow everything up again in case the Flyback is bad. Can anyone
suggest a safe way to test the set without losing all these parts I put
in ? Will turning it on at a reduced AC voltage do the trick ? Thank
you

moonlite
Wire a 100W lightbulb in series with the set and turn it on. The bulb will
limit the current.
 
Lanzar wrote:
It seems to have it with all devices, and whit its own tuner too. It
can also be seen sometimes besides the OSD-menu , but it is most
visible with the RGB signal from the DVD player. I have tried the DVD
player on another set and it worked fine. I have also tried another
DVD player but the problem remained...


"PainintheAmp" <painintheamp@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<1117621229.714117.319010@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>...

Does the TV have that problem with any other device?
If not, then its the DVD player. Try a cleaner disc.
Lanzar wrote:

Hi!

On my Sony 29" 100Hz (KV-X2993E) television i see some brighter bars
scrolling across the screen. This is most visible when watching DVD,
and the bars stops in position when i pause the movie. The bars aren't
visible in every scenes and they follows the contain of the picture.
Is some kind of artefact of the 100Hz process, or is my tv
mailfuctioning?

Have you tried a better quality cable between the dvd player and the
set? I`ve seen problems like that when using 'budget' scart cables.

Ron



--

www.lunevalleyaudio.com
 
If the arcing is around the LOPT them you will have to have it replaced and
other items inspected. If the arcing is in the CRT or at the neck board than
you may have a defective CRT. Have the set checked out. BTW it is highly
probable parts may be NLA.
"Cobalt" <spam@linhax.com> wrote in message
news:-LedndMAYpeCBQPfRVn-tA@adelphia.com...
What is the model number?


pinball77@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1117672137.104515.43240@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
| hello, Ive owned this set since 1997. Its teh 40" tube set. Recently
| the pic has taken a while to focus. Today the pic is completely out of
| focus and their is a loud cracking/arcing sound from the back . I was
| wondering if their is a way to tell if its the picture tube or flyback
| . Is their a source for these flybacks if it is bad. Is the set worth
| fixing? Any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance! JOhn Ross
|
 
Ron(UK) wrote:
Lanzar wrote:

It seems to have it with all devices, and whit its own tuner too. It
can also be seen sometimes besides the OSD-menu , but it is most
visible with the RGB signal from the DVD player. I have tried the DVD
player on another set and it worked fine. I have also tried another
DVD player but the problem remained...


"PainintheAmp" <painintheamp@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:<1117621229.714117.319010@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>...

Does the TV have that problem with any other device?
If not, then its the DVD player. Try a cleaner disc.
Lanzar wrote:

Hi!

On my Sony 29" 100Hz (KV-X2993E) television i see some brighter bars
scrolling across the screen. This is most visible when watching DVD,
and the bars stops in position when i pause the movie. The bars aren't
visible in every scenes and they follows the contain of the picture.
Is some kind of artefact of the 100Hz process, or is my tv
mailfuctioning?



Have you tried a better quality cable between the dvd player and the
set? I`ve seen problems like that when using 'budget' scart cables.

Ron



Ohh just remembered, spent ages once looking for the cause of light
patterning and a slight but annoying buzz on the sound of a Toshiba
widescreen once. It turned out to be field from a cordless phone base
nearby. I`ve seen the same thing from mobile phone chargers.

Ron

--
Lune Valley Audio
Public address system
Hire, Sales, Repairs
www.lunevalleyaudio.com
 
The old “F’ fitting was just press fitted into place…not to mechanically
stable against a hard cable YANK.
At least the disc ceramic input capacitor is still intact with adequate
wire length. If you are proficient at soldering you can get this F-61
connector:
http://tinyurl.com/9owup
and unsolder the 4 \2 tabs mounting the isolation block to the chassis
and straighten out the deformed hole and install that fitting
without its control nut…[unless there is some remote chance that there
is enough room to install that retainer nut internally if the cap
leaves enough room inside ] and then the caps wire is soldered to the
connectors center pin terminal. If it requires soldering the ground
shell into the exposed hole, you pre-tin both pieces joining surfaces
separately and then do a reflow soldering, it requires a heavy iron or
soldering station due to the heat being carried off. Also, done as a
quick operation to keep from melting the plastic pellet inside that is
retaining the center pin connector. An immediate blast of freeze spray
or inverted “canned air” on completion (the solder joints non-plastic
state), suffices.
You’re certainly lucky that this intermediate isolation block averted
your yanking a “F ‘ fitting out of the tuner proper …sitting back at
the end of the RCA plugs link….the way most other sets are built.
73’s de Edd


--
Edd Whatley
 
Bob:
It sounds like service shop time for your VCR.... at the very least you
should obtain a repair cost estimate (usually the price of a cleaning) so
you can make an intelligent repair decision with facts instead of Internet
guesses. Look for a smaller shop that still wants to be bothered with
fixing stuff at a fair price.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


<itsmereb@cox.net> wrote in message
news:1117729533.864560.249900@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Any techies have ideas on this? Plug in VCR it will power up, but
won't turn off. Maybe next time, or maybe five times later, plug it
in, it powers up, goes through its startup procedure, (about two to
three seconds), THEN powers itself off and won't turn back on. If you
unplug it and plug it back in, it will power up and do the same thing
or possibly go back to the it won't turn off at the switch. Other than
that, everything works great on it. Any ideas? I am an electrician, but
only have enough electronics knowledge to be dangerous to
myself,electronic equipment and others in my immediate work
environment.
Thanks for any help,
Bob
 
The sub Ł1000 machines all have the same basic problems... slightly jerky
picture on fast motion, even though they have fancy motion processing.
The DLP projectors have (by nature of the way they work) a red/green/blue
strobing action, and as your eyes flick from one side of the screen to the
other, it becomes quite apparent..strange no one else ever seems to mention
or complain about it!!
Brightness, 1500 lumens should be the minimum, ideally 2000, but then
theres the ever present noise (more with brighter images)- plus the room has
to be pretty dark with no direct light falling on the screen. Bulb life is
only 2000-4000hrs and they are expensive- unreasonably expensive- not sure
why...

Conclusion- Unless you go to the top end, you are getting a compromise, but
if it has to be a big picture then its a better bet than a big plasma due to
cost.

Hope that helps
Andrew

"Andy" <andysharpe@juno.com> wrote in message
news:1117724026.345660.319880@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Andy asks:

I have been considering on of those TV projectors from
Dell, and others, that accept video inputs from a VCR and
project the TV image on a screen or wall.

I have looked over the technical data for the units, but
have never seen one first hand in operation.

I would appreciate any advice and comments on this type
of TV system from those of you who might have first hand
experience with them.

Thanks,

Andy
 
I wouldn't think its the ribbon, as usally it will read TOC ok but fail to
play later tracks when thats at fault.
I would just replace the laser. The click you hear is the laser losing
focus. It is able to hold locked on until the disc spins at which point the
weak sensor in the laser unit can't hold lock any more.
Just occasionally it may be a spindle motor... follow me on this... the
current needed to spin the motor with shorting brushes, pulls down a rail
somewhere thus tripping up another part of the circuit. See if the flatpack
IC for driving the motors (usually has big central earthing/cooling pins) is
getting rather warm, when you repeatedly try to read discs..
hope that helps.
Andrew
"b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1117633499.534591.156040@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hi,
this unit will begin to spin up the cd, but after a couple of seconds a
mechanical click is heard. At that point, the disc starts spinning
counterclockwise. No TOC is picked up and 'No disc' message is
displayed.

I checked the sled mech, moves freely. As does the spindle motor.
Endstop sensor seems Ok too. I just don't know what that mechanical
click is caused by.The 3 disc multiplay load mech remains still.

Anyone seen this problem? My next step is going to be checking the
ribbon cable to the pickup tho' I don't see the connection between that
and the mechanical clicking, I am treating this as a mechanical problem
at present rather than electronic so I'd really appreciate any
suggestions...

Regards,
-Ben
 
Lanzar wrote:
Intresting answers. I tried a diffrent cable but no change. I have
also tried the input on the front of the tv, but same problem. I also
don't think it can be caused by some nearby electronics, becouse the
patterns freezes when i pause the movie. Also when i zoom a picture
the patterns are visible on different places, and moves when i zoom
out the picture...
Try relocating the dvd player, turn it through 90 degrees, if it`s
directly under the set, try moving it away as far as you can.

Ron

--
Lune Valley Audio
Public address system
Hire, Sales, Repairs
www.lunevalleyaudio.com
 
<esoroka@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1117844049.979105.188200@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Anybody know the difference between the words:
a) Refurbished
The device was broken when it left the factory, it was sent back to be
fixed. Now it's back in the store

b) Reconditioned
I'm not sure about this one. Probably a cosmetic fix.

c) Remanufactured
There was a flaw in the design. It was corrected and signed off by a
engineer. Then the device was fixed by the manufacturer.

d) Rebuild
The device broke and some 3rd party fixed it. Think engine rebuild -> taken
apart and all worn & broken parts were replaced.

Thanks,
Eugene
np

Dwayne
 
John-Del wrote:

Can anyone
suggest a safe way to test the set without losing all these parts I put
in ? Will turning it on at a reduced AC voltage do the trick ? Thank
you


I've had a lot of these (with 25 or 27" tubes) start normally, then arc
from the top of the flyback to the core, immediately smoting the HOT
and regulator.

I think on these chassis you can jump the regulator out and run it on a
variac to give approx B+, and use a sacrificial HOT from a junker. If
it blows the horiz out again, it won't damage the regulator. If it
runs, try waving a HV probe around the top tower of the flyback to see
if you can draw an arc. If you can locate the pinhole, you can RTV it
shut. There should be more than enough room between the tower and core
to insulate it.

John
Hi...

Just from curiousity, John, why not rtv the whole durned
flyback on general principle?

Take care.

Ken
 
well they all start with R

<esoroka@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1117844049.979105.188200@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Anybody know the difference between the words:
a) Refurbished
repaired and cosmetically resembles stock
b) Reconditioned
repaired and made close to stock functionally
c) Remanufactured
repaired and made better then new
d) Rebuild
repair with lots of parts replaced



Thanks,
Eugene
 
"Dwayne" <fake@email.com> wrote in message
news:3z6oe.1563332$Xk.762688@pd7tw3no...
esoroka@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1117844049.979105.188200@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Anybody know the difference between the words:
a) Refurbished

The device was broken when it left the factory, it was sent back to be
fixed. Now it's back in the store
The tech took a quick look and didn't bother to fix it.

b) Reconditioned
I'm not sure about this one. Probably a cosmetic fix.
The tech cleaned the cabinet and didn't bother to fix it.

c) Remanufactured

There was a flaw in the design. It was corrected and signed off by a
engineer. Then the device was fixed by the manufacturer.
The tech replaced a fuse but otherwise didn't bother to fix it.

d) Rebuild

The device broke and some 3rd party fixed it. Think engine rebuild -
taken
apart and all worn & broken parts were replaced.
The tech put a new cord on it but otherwise didn't bother to fix it.

N
 
No, no, no, that's what is the 'same', the difference is that the words have
different number of letters.

Other than that, they theoretically can mean different things (as described in
another Email) but basically they all mean the same thing .... it was faulty,
had a minor fix & is being sold at maximum profit.

well they all start with R

esoroka@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1117844049.979105.188200@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Anybody know the difference between the words:
a) Refurbished
repaired and cosmetically resembles stock
b) Reconditioned
repaired and made close to stock functionally
c) Remanufactured
repaired and made better then new
d) Rebuild
repair with lots of parts replaced






Thanks,
Eugene
--

Australia isn't "down under", it's "off to one side"!

stanblaz@netspace.net.au
www.cobracat.com (home of the Australian Cobra Catamaran)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cobra-cat/
 
A defective high voltage multiplier, or a defective CRT are the most common
causes for this type of fault.

--

Jerry G.
=====

<FarmerChanning@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1117761887.247912.147550@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I've been having some odd problems with my 21" IBM P260 since I got it
used but recently they've been worse. After its turned on it will
sometimes cycle its focus. slowly getting fuzzy to the point where its
unreadable and then snap back to normal focus right after, only to do
the same again and again. Other times it will quickly go blury and
click back to normal, making a loud pop noise when the focus returns.

As far as I can figure it might be a ground problem, some build up of
static charge or maybe a loose wire. Repair advice and help welcome.
 
IMHO: Replace the LOPT if indeed you found an arc point perforating the
covering. In my experience, once this happens and there is even a slight
residue of the carbon tracking it will fail again. Only absolute sure way to
repair will be to replace the component. If it were my own set and I would
sacrifice the time and parts to test the RTV issue, may even try it.
However, for a paying customer, replace the LOPT.
"moonlite" <elect21st@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1117859370.460356.27000@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
Thank you for this very good info ! There seems to be a small hole on
top of the Flyback with lots of burn marks around it. I think a new
Flyback would guarantee a permanent fix. Has anyone used RTV without
getting call backs ?

moonlite
 

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