Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[JR North]

You may be able to restore most of the capacity depending on the
condition and age of the battery, but you will need a charge rate of 30
amps or so to boil off the plates. A little trickle charger wont do.
JR

wrongaddress@att.net wrote:

Is it possible to resurrect a lead acid battery from the dead?

I have an old 12 volt automobile battery that was stored for
sometime in a discharged state. The battery voltage read around
6 volts in the discharged state. I charged it at 1 amp for 10 hours and
then tested the capacity using a automotive tail light drawing 1.3
amps. The battery voltage fell from 12.5 volts to around 9 volts within
1.5 hours indicating the capacity was not too much.

When I again recharged the battery, it sustained the load for
a longer period indicating the capacity had increased to
around 5 amp hours.

I'm wondering if cycling the battery over several charge and
discharge cycles will improve the capacity?

This charge and discharge cycling seems to improve the capacity
for a couple cycles, how much improvement should I expect from
several charge and discharge dycles?

-Bill

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

 

[Jamie]

RLG101142@yahoo.com wrote:

THE MOST IMPORTANT QUESTION OF YOUR LIFE

Yeah, the meaning of Life!

This is the most important question of your life.

Yeah i know, what is it?

The question is: Are you saved?

Let me check my last back up date!

It is not a question of how good you are, nor if you
are a church member, but are you saved?

Not sure yet, still looking for my back up!

Are you sure you will go to Heaven when you die?

Hmm, there is a Bar down the road called Heavens place!
will that do?

The reason some people don't know for sure if they are
going to Heaven when they die is because they just
don't know.

There has been a couple of deaths down the road in the
pass at Heavens place, They were already there when it
happen!

The good news is that you can know for sure that you
are going to Heaven.

You mean your telling me i will get drunk soon !

The Holy Bible describes Heaven as a beautiful place
with no death, sorrow, sickness or pain.

Hmm, non existents can explain that!.

God tells us in the Holy Bible how simple it is to be
saved so that we can live forever with Him in Heaven.

i don't know if i want to live for ever at this Heavens
place, i have seen what it does for others!

"For if you confess with your mouth Jesus is Lord and
believe in your heart that God raised Him from the
dead, you will be saved." (Romans 10:9)

Hmm, then i must be all set then, i am all the time
calling his name, the wife also helps out with that too!
thanks.

Over 2000 years ago God came from Heaven to earth in
the person of Jesus Christ to shed His blood and die
on a cross to pay our sin debt in full.

Hmm, really. sounds like the guy out side with the
tinned cup!

Jesus Christ was born in Israel supernaturally to a
virgin Jewish woman named Mary and lived a sinless
life for thirty-three years.

Really, sounds more like a cover up to me.

At the age of thirty-three Jesus was scourged and
had a crown of thorns pressed onto His head then
Jesus was crucified.
That i can believe.

Three days after Jesus died on a cross and was placed
in a grave He rose from the dead as He said would
happen before He died.

Death has a lot of meaning these days?.
at what point are you really dead?
and did they really know if he was dead?
and how many others did they put in the
hole back then that were not really dead.

If someone tells you that they are going to die
and then three days later come back to life and it
actually happens then this person must be the real deal.

Back then!, no shocker here.

Jesus Christ is the only person that ever lived a
perfect sinless life.

yeah rite!

This is why Jesus is able to cover our sins(misdeeds)
with His own blood because Jesus is sinless.

Yeah rite, just like i said./

The Holy Bible says, "In Him(Jesus) we have redemption
through His blood, the forgiveness of sins..."
(Ephesians 1:7)


If you would like God to forgive you of your past,
present and future sins just ask Jesus Christ to be
your Lord and Saviour.


It doesn't matter how old you are or how many bad
things that you have done in your life including
lying and stealing all the way up to murder.

and its statements like the above that gives criminals
reasons for killing. because people like you have them
convinced that they will be going to a better place.
first you dictate Hell, then you claim god forgives
them all.
make up your mind.


the fact of the story is, your looking for people to
squeeze their money from...
!

 

[DaveM]

"John J.Turley" <jturley98@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:42908046_1@news3.buffnet.net...

Al wrote:
One of our TV sets is linked to a roof-mounted antenna controlled
by one of those rotor boxes (ours is an Alliance brand, made
by the Genie company.)

The rotor box began to malfunction a few weeks ago, taking a
long time to move after the dial was turned.

Now it's gotten worse. It might move one click when you turn the
dial, but usually doesn't move at all. The dial face does light up.

Any idea what the problem is?

Most likely the motor/gearbox on the roof would be the problem. The rotor
box is just the power supply, switch and indicator of what direction the
antenna is rotating. The indicator is pulsed around by a solenoid in the
box receiving it's voltage from a cam switch in the motor/gearbox on the
roof. If the indicator is not moving, the rotors not moving. Other
possibility could be wire connections bad.

First thing to do is to check the voltage output of the transformer inside
the control box. As memory serves, it should be around 24 VAC. If you
don't have the proper transformer voltage while the rotor is in operation,
I.E., trying to turn the antenna, look no further. You have a bad
transformer. You might find a suitable replacement at a RadioShack store,
if you can find one that still stocks parts.

Next, check the contacts of the switch behind the dial, and also the
solenoid switch contacts. If they're pitted or dirty, clean and burnish the
contacts. Check to see if that fixed the problem.
Next...
Inside the control box is an AC capacitor that enables the motor in the
rotor unit to be reversible. Don't know exactly which model you have, and
the value of that capacitor may be different over the years of manufacture.
Find and check the value of that capacitor, especially its ESR. If you
don't have the equipment to do that, you might save yourself time and
frustration by replacing it with a new one. These are usually AC
electrolytics rated for motor run duty. Make sure your replacement is an AC
capacitor. You can also use a metallized polypropylene capacitor with an AC
rating of 100VAC or more (assuming that the operating voltage of the mtor is
24VAC)..
If that doesn't fix your problem, the next step is to get to the rotor unit
and open it up. Check that the motor is not locked up from dried grease or
rust. Could also be that one or more wires have broken. Make sure that
the cable from the control box to the rotor is in good condition... all
wires have continuity from the control box to the rotor.
Cheers!!!
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just subsitute the appropriate characters in
the address)

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!

 

[Art]

Sad to say, either a ringer to test the LOPT before replacing the output
transistor or estimate to include the LOPT as a nominal repair. IMHO the
cost of the output transistor is small price to pay to do a dynamic test on
the LOPT. Seen a lot of these transformers fail not only in the larger sizes
but also the 27" versions.
<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1116768782.124219.218090@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

I recently did a CTC203 that was squealing. I found the horizontal
output transistor shorted and replaced it. I then dug out the infamous
coil and cleaned/ resoldered it as well. I fired the thing up only to
have the flyback arc and take out the new transistor. I then replaced
the flyback and of course the new transistor again and the set worked
fine. I don't have a ringer but I have been told that this type of
insulation breakdown is somewhat common on these 32 inch and larger
chassis and very often won't show up on a ring test anyway. I don't
want to just replace a flyback as a prophylactic measure every time one
of these squealers comes in but is there any way to predict this might
happen before powering up a new repair. Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen
Electronics

 

[NSM]

"Just Another Theremin Fan" <dcjtee@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1116769550.223497.275990@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

then run it down with a headlamp load to dim then repeat

Rubbish. Car batteries are not designed for deep discharge cycling
(running them completely flat). They have no need to be. Doing so will
damage a good one.

What part of 'dim' did you fail to understand? This is advice from a car
battery rebuilder.

N

 

[jimmyjames]

I told you... It's the switch!
<nntp.post@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1115759467.022106.319390@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

I've tried running a self cleaning, twice actually. Works fine, oven
looks clean, but of course flashing still happens.

The oven does have a program timer, but it's not set.

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Rono]

You guys are missing the info!! These units will not run
with high standby B+. Scopes & EEPROM changes won't
fix it. I tried everything I could think of. Just read again. Rono.

RCA 25" M # 25GT536, chassis # CTC177AG. Unit was dead,
replaced STK-730-010 (shorted), R104 1.5 meg ohm (gone high),
C4105 10UF @ 250 Volt (gone leaky), checked/replaced CR4108
(130 volt line), changed C4402 (warped), 12 volts, & 5 volts standby
is fine, 5 volts to EEPROM, & tact switches, but 130 volt line is +146
volts dc. B+ to LA7610 main jungle IC +7 volts. B+ to horizontal output,
& drive is + 146 volts, & unit won't start. What did I miss? Rono.

 

[none]

On Mon, 23 May 2005 00:04:40 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:

"Just Another Theremin Fan" <dcjtee@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1116769550.223497.275990@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
then run it down with a headlamp load to dim then repeat

Rubbish. Car batteries are not designed for deep discharge cycling
(running them completely flat). They have no need to be. Doing so will
damage a good one.

What part of 'dim' did you fail to understand? This is advice from a car
battery rebuilder.

N

Sounds to me it's not the battery that's dim.

 

[none]

On Sun, 22 May 2005 13:05:04 -0400, "DaveM"
<masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote:

"John J.Turley" <jturley98@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:42908046_1@news3.buffnet.net...
Al wrote:
One of our TV sets is linked to a roof-mounted antenna controlled
by one of those rotor boxes (ours is an Alliance brand, made
by the Genie company.)

The rotor box began to malfunction a few weeks ago, taking a
long time to move after the dial was turned.

Now it's gotten worse. It might move one click when you turn the
dial, but usually doesn't move at all. The dial face does light up.

Any idea what the problem is?

Most likely the motor/gearbox on the roof would be the problem. The rotor
box is just the power supply, switch and indicator of what direction the
antenna is rotating. The indicator is pulsed around by a solenoid in the
box receiving it's voltage from a cam switch in the motor/gearbox on the
roof. If the indicator is not moving, the rotors not moving. Other
possibility could be wire connections bad.


First thing to do is to check the voltage output of the transformer inside
the control box. As memory serves, it should be around 24 VAC. If you
don't have the proper transformer voltage while the rotor is in operation,
I.E., trying to turn the antenna, look no further. You have a bad
transformer. You might find a suitable replacement at a RadioShack store,
if you can find one that still stocks parts.

Next, check the contacts of the switch behind the dial, and also the
solenoid switch contacts. If they're pitted or dirty, clean and burnish the
contacts. Check to see if that fixed the problem.
Next...
Inside the control box is an AC capacitor that enables the motor in the
rotor unit to be reversible. Don't know exactly which model you have, and
the value of that capacitor may be different over the years of manufacture.
Find and check the value of that capacitor, especially its ESR. If you
don't have the equipment to do that, you might save yourself time and
frustration by replacing it with a new one. These are usually AC
electrolytics rated for motor run duty. Make sure your replacement is an AC
capacitor. You can also use a metallized polypropylene capacitor with an AC
rating of 100VAC or more (assuming that the operating voltage of the mtor is
24VAC)..
If that doesn't fix your problem, the next step is to get to the rotor unit
and open it up. Check that the motor is not locked up from dried grease or
rust. Could also be that one or more wires have broken. Make sure that
the cable from the control box to the rotor is in good condition... all
wires have continuity from the control box to the rotor.
Cheers!!!

There's actually some fellow on the web that services and sells
Alliance brand rotors.
I've picked his brain a time or two for the Aliance rotors I have and
he gave me repair info freely, though it was 5 or 6 years back.

Here's a few links:

http://lists.contesting.com/pipermail/towertalk/1999-April/023693.html

http://www.rotorservice.com/

You can ask over at the first link, the Hammer's over there are only
to happy to give you what info they have on these rotors.

The second link will take you to Norm's rotor service, he has all the
rights for Alliance brand rotors and can sell you any part you might
need.

I quite like my Alliance rotors, they seem to just run and run.
My oldest is about 40 years old, the other about 30 or so.
I have a tv antenna on one and have the other rigged up for a
surveillance camera for my property. It's set about 50 ft. o so on the
roof corner and gives me a birds eye view of all activity on my
property.

 

[none]

On 20 May 2005 11:57:42 -0700, "Lex" <lexlo@iname.com> wrote:

I've got a real head-scratcher. I've got an older NAD 5340 cdplayer
that aside from a little more hunting and tracking than newer cd
players it has a great sound EXCEPT for a few select cds.

On some cdroms (Peter Gabriel's 'Shaking the Tree' for instance) the
sound makes me think the DAC is losing it's place or something because
the sound is almost scratchy. (didn't think that was possible with a
cdrom drive) The disc is in GREAT shape with no visible scratches.

Now here is where things get weird, when I copy the cd and play the
copy, it sounds fantastic. (confused enough already?)

I downloaded a repair guide (for the 5420 and 5425) but there is
nothing that even mentions 'scratchy sound'.

The only things I can think of is that either the laser is going
(wouldn't explain why CDRs work though) or a combination of a worn
transport with an unbalanced disc?


cheers
antony

I have the NAD 5100 and have experienced the same problem with it.
It'll play some cd-r's just fine and others will just make a high
pitched screeching sound on the NAD.
The non-playing ones work fine in later model players.
I'd assumed that since these NAD's are older model that that might be
the problem. I havven't really sweated it since I have two other
players in my racks.
Anyone here who could educate us old timers on why this is?

 

[David Kuhajda]

See posting with binary attachment in alt.binaries.schematics.electronics
for excerpt from training manual and short description of basic SMPS
troubleshooting in the posting.

Didn't they cover SMPS basic operation in one of the electronics degree
classes?

David

"Rono" <rono@nl.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:HIydnWWmtqVvzAzfRVn-sQ@rogers.com...

You guys are missing the info!! These units will not run
with high standby B+. Scopes & EEPROM changes won't
fix it. I tried everything I could think of. Just read again. Rono.

RCA 25" M # 25GT536, chassis # CTC177AG. Unit was dead,
replaced STK-730-010 (shorted), R104 1.5 meg ohm (gone high),
C4105 10UF @ 250 Volt (gone leaky), checked/replaced CR4108
(130 volt line), changed C4402 (warped), 12 volts, & 5 volts standby
is fine, 5 volts to EEPROM, & tact switches, but 130 volt line is +146
volts dc. B+ to LA7610 main jungle IC +7 volts. B+ to horizontal output,
& drive is + 146 volts, & unit won't start. What did I miss? Rono.

 

[none]

On Thu, 19 May 2005 09:16:09 -0500, "jakdedert"
<jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

none wrote:
On Wed, 18 May 2005 11:43:48 -0500, "jakdedert"
jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

James Sweet wrote:
No doubt....

On a different subject; the last time I had occasion to check the
Repair FAQ regarding a lawnmower issue, (I had a shear key problem
which was easily fixed with the info contained there. Thanks, Sam)
I noticed a very interesting dialogue concerning the relative
merits of Briggs and Tecumseh small engines.

Being how it's much too late (probably) to get my $.02 in the FAQ,
I thought I'd post my opinion here:

IME, Briggs motors are much more 'finicky' for starting and
maintenance, but they last longer and use much less gas and oil.

The Tecumsehs (I have two of those, and one Briggs & Stratton)
start much easier, although that's probably due to the priming
bulb which my Briggs does not have. They start using oil right
out of the box, however. I have to check and add oil on almost
every use. My Eager1 uses almost twice as much fuel to mow the
same yard as my older Briggs of the same horsepower and cut width.
I almost never have to add oil to the Briggs in an entire season.

Given the greater oil and gas consumption, I assume that the
Tecumsehs are emitting considerably more pollutants per hour of
use. The consumables only add a negligible amount to my lawn-care
costs every year; but multiplied by (however many millions) of
them out there.....

Any thoughts?

jak


Well it's hard to say these days, back when I was tinkering with
this stuff a lot I was dealing with engines made mostly in the
1970's and the Briggs motors were very noticeably better made and
easier to work on. The Tecumsehs' were nothing but a pain in the
ass, carb problems, ignition problems, a few common models would
regularly throw rods. It was no shock since they were always about
40% cheaper than a comparable B&S. Now days I don't really know,
the Tecumseh engines seem to have improved somewhat, while the
Briggs engines have gotten *very* noticeably poorer. Somebody said
they're now made in Asia so perhaps that's when the quality took a
dive. BTW the new ones do have a primer bulb, haven't tried
starting one though. My mom has an old mower with a Tecumseh and it
does actually start quite easily though I have to take apart the
carb and clean out the banjo bolt on the float bowl every year,
never had to do that with an old Briggs. Unfortunatly I never
compared fuel consumption but I don't recall oil usage problems on
either.

I've not had to pull the carb on either of my Tec's, but the Briggs
(bought new in the early 90's) is laid up until I can pull the carb
and determine if it's the cause of the hard starting. Both Tec's
have worked reliably since I aquired them, except for the shear pin,
which was result of operator error, of course. This morning I
pulled out one of them and oil was below the dipstick. (5.5 hp,
self propelled pusher...I ran two+ tanks of gas through it last
session, and oil was full when I started...need to check more often!)

However, both of them were aquired used, as opposed to the Briggs.
I wonder if they were abused in an earlier life. I had one other
many years ago, and it 'used' oil/gas as well. It might have been
old enough to have been made in the 70's...thrift store find.

I'm glad to hear Tecumseh quality is going up. Except for needing
to keep a close watch on the oil, and seemingly needing to fill gas
more often, both of these mowers have been relatively flawless.

It's also a shame about Briggs & Stratton. The first engine I ever
worked on was a horizontal shaft Briggs which came off my dads old
reel-type power mower from the 50's. I pulled it off the mower some
time in the mid-60's, used a pipe wrench to break the rings free and
mounted it on a go-cart. It was too small for the application at a
(maybe two, it's been a long time) horse and a half, but it ran well.

jak

Yes the earlier Techumsehs did have a problem regards to burning oil.
They were built terribly cheap way back.
And yep, the earlier B&S engines were built like a tank.
The problem with using the older Briggs horizontal shaft motors for
go-carts or minibikes was they had low rpms and not much torque.
The ones they marketed specifically for that purpose were setup tp
spin a bit faster and had higher compression.
You could fudge a bit with some of the 3hp models by resetting the
mean idle on the govenor springs and either rejetting the carb for
quicker response or replacing it with a bigger throated one so the
engine could breath a bit better.
Using a low hp engine like a 2 or a 2 and a half you'd have had to
change out the drive sprocket for a much larger one to make it an easy
pull. Which of course would have made it as slow as a turtle.

Which it was...it could barely get out of it's own way <g>.

jak

Just a thought but if you want to make that scooter fly try finding a
Honda or Toyo horizontal shaft motor.
You can usually get them off pressure washers with bad pumps as those
motors can't be killed short of running them with NO oil and they are
usually high horse powered, 7 to 12.
These motors have high spin and good torque and can get that bike up
to 50mph.( I'd done that for so local yahoo a couple years back for
his camp mini-bike. Saw him last month and he had a pronounced limp so
I guess he got all the speed he wanted.)

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Mark D. Zacharias wrote:

Joachim Berlich wrote:
Hello
i have an older Luxman 210, with the power on-off light won't go.
I've measured on the pins 0,8 Volt, i think this is too little.
Someone has an idea or can tell me, where to find a wiring diagram ?

Thanks
Joachim

Your volt meter may not be set on the correct range (AC or DC).

They're 24 volt lamps. Likely only the lamp is bad.

Mark Z.

P.S.

Actually, I think there was a 24 volt zener diode on the main board, which
paralleled the lamp. If memory serves, there is a browned spot there because
the zener ran hot. The zener tends to short when the lamp goes out.

Mark Z.

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

"Art" <plotsligt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:Ar-dnS5GIq7qkgzfRVn-iA@comcast.com...

Sad to say, either a ringer to test the LOPT before replacing the output
transistor or estimate to include the LOPT as a nominal repair. IMHO the
cost of the output transistor is small price to pay to do a dynamic test
on
the LOPT. Seen a lot of these transformers fail not only in the larger
sizes
but also the 27" versions.

Did I read that right? You think that blowing outputs is a reasonable way
to diagnose a bad LOPT? Please finish this line of reasoning...

Leonard

 

[kip]

ok
<espexplorer@iname.com> wrote in message
news:1116832352.506708.24270@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

kip wrote:
I would start looking at the PC board
as I suspect you may have damaged it
removing the chassis from the Tray as
you said it finally came out.
There are 2 plastic clips on the sides of the
tray which have to be lifted to release the chassis.
Just a suggestion...
kip


Hi Kip,

I didn't damage the board. I released the clips, and the board was
still stuck, but I gently worked it free after that. After putting the
set back together, the problem is still the same as it was.

Mark

 

[kip]

Ok Maybe a break on the board or you have missed a bad component.

kip
"Rono" <rono@nl.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:HIydnWWmtqVvzAzfRVn-sQ@rogers.com...

You guys are missing the info!! These units will not run
with high standby B+. Scopes & EEPROM changes won't
fix it. I tried everything I could think of. Just read again. Rono.

RCA 25" M # 25GT536, chassis # CTC177AG. Unit was dead,
replaced STK-730-010 (shorted), R104 1.5 meg ohm (gone high),
C4105 10UF @ 250 Volt (gone leaky), checked/replaced CR4108
(130 volt line), changed C4402 (warped), 12 volts, & 5 volts standby
is fine, 5 volts to EEPROM, & tact switches, but 130 volt line is +146
volts dc. B+ to LA7610 main jungle IC +7 volts. B+ to horizontal output,
& drive is + 146 volts, & unit won't start. What did I miss? Rono.

 

[Jim Adney]

On 21 May 2005 20:14:08 -0700 wrongaddress@att.net wrote:

Is it possible to resurrect a lead acid battery from the dead?

I have an old 12 volt automobile battery that was stored for
sometime in a discharged state. The battery voltage read around
6 volts in the discharged state. I charged it at 1 amp for 10 hours and
then tested the capacity using a automotive tail light drawing 1.3
amps. The battery voltage fell from 12.5 volts to around 9 volts within
1.5 hours indicating the capacity was not too much.

The fact that it got to 12.5V indicates that it is probably not
shorted internally. Charge it up again and leave it overnight. If it
still measures above 12V then it is likely to be restorable.

Open up the cell caps and look down each one with a flashlight. You
should see the plates with paper separators between them. The paper
will be tan colored and I'm guessing that you'll see grey plates
between each tan separator. If so, your best bet is to charge the
battery extremely slowly.

I recommend that you just put a small lamp between the charger and the
battery, in series, to limit the current. A charging current of about
50 mA is about right. You will need to keep this up until half of the
plates turn chocolate brown. At that point, the battery will be fully
charged. If your battery is badly sulfated, this process may take more
than a week.

During that time you should check the voltage across the battery. You
can do this at the same time that you're charging it slowly. If the
battery voltage every falls below 12V during this time, you have a
shorted cell, and the battery is probably not salvagable.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[Ken Weitzel]

Jim Adney wrote:

On 21 May 2005 20:14:08 -0700 wrongaddress@att.net wrote:


Is it possible to resurrect a lead acid battery from the dead?

I have an old 12 volt automobile battery that was stored for
sometime in a discharged state. The battery voltage read around
6 volts in the discharged state. I charged it at 1 amp for 10 hours and
then tested the capacity using a automotive tail light drawing 1.3
amps. The battery voltage fell from 12.5 volts to around 9 volts within
1.5 hours indicating the capacity was not too much.


The fact that it got to 12.5V indicates that it is probably not
shorted internally. Charge it up again and leave it overnight. If it
still measures above 12V then it is likely to be restorable.

Open up the cell caps and look down each one with a flashlight. You
should see the plates with paper separators between them. The paper
will be tan colored and I'm guessing that you'll see grey plates
between each tan separator. If so, your best bet is to charge the
battery extremely slowly.

I recommend that you just put a small lamp between the charger and the
battery, in series, to limit the current. A charging current of about
50 mA is about right. You will need to keep this up until half of the
plates turn chocolate brown. At that point, the battery will be fully
charged. If your battery is badly sulfated, this process may take more
than a week.

During that time you should check the voltage across the battery. You
can do this at the same time that you're charging it slowly. If the
battery voltage every falls below 12V during this time, you have a
shorted cell, and the battery is probably not salvagable.

Hi Jim...

Just off the top of my head, I suspect that at 50 ma's
he'd better start charging it now if you wants to use it
next winter

Take care.

Ken

 

[sofie]

Rono:
Us guys are trying to give you repair suggestions with the info you post.
You have the television in front of you with your test equipment. Standard
troubleshooting based on the info you gave would suggest SMPS problems?????
or jungle not providing startup HPulses to HDrive xstr, HDXfmr and base of
HOT. Have you scoped for startup Hpulses..... maybe that is the missing
info we are not seeing in your post.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Rono" <rono@nl.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:HIydnWWmtqVvzAzfRVn-sQ@rogers.com...

You guys are missing the info!! These units will not run
with high standby B+. Scopes & EEPROM changes won't
fix it. I tried everything I could think of. Just read again. Rono.

RCA 25" M # 25GT536, chassis # CTC177AG. Unit was dead,
replaced STK-730-010 (shorted), R104 1.5 meg ohm (gone high),
C4105 10UF @ 250 Volt (gone leaky), checked/replaced CR4108
(130 volt line), changed C4402 (warped), 12 volts, & 5 volts standby
is fine, 5 volts to EEPROM, & tact switches, but 130 volt line is +146
volts dc. B+ to LA7610 main jungle IC +7 volts. B+ to horizontal output,
& drive is + 146 volts, & unit won't start. What did I miss? Rono.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

peter_dingemans@hotmail.com writes:

G'day,

I've recently acquired an old bench multimeter, a Fluke 800A.

On the most sensitive AC-range (200mV AC) it seems to 'overflow'
(displaying 1999mV) when leads are attached. Is this normal behaviour
for this equipment? When shorting the leads, it displays correctly. On
the 2V AC range, it displays about 0.3VAC...

Is this because of RF interference in the air (but why don't my other
multimeters have it so badly?) or is it in need of repair?

If you mean just hanging not connected to anything, it's probably
normal. If it zeros when they are shorted, then it's likely working.

Measure something to confirm.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.