Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <d6u8so$bgh@netnews.proxy.lucent.com>,
Bob Shuman <reshuman@removethis.lucent.com> wrote:

I have found from experience that if you keep a lead acid battery fully
charged using a trickle charger, and make sure the water is kept full as
well that it will keep for many , many years.

Indeed, but few will bother. A decent recharge every few months or so
would do as well. But I've a suspicion the makers incorporate separators
that self destruct if left in the acid.

--
*Can fat people go skinny-dipping?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Travis Jordan]

Andrew Rossmann wrote:

As far as an antenna is concerned, a signal is a signal. It doesn't
know anything about analog or digital.

Don't tell the marketing folks that...they have a whole new opportunity
to sell stuff.

http://www.terk.com/pdfs/T0428-HDTVi-LK.pdf

 

[Travis Jordan]

Travis Jordan wrote:

Don't tell the marketing folks that...they have a whole new
opportunity to sell stuff.

http://www.terk.com/pdfs/T0428-HDTVi-LK.pdf

And don't forget the digital coax.

http://www.bettercables.com/digitalcoax.html

 

[Stan]

"Travis Jordan" <no.one@no.net> wrote:

}Travis Jordan wrote:
}
}> Don't tell the marketing folks that...they have a whole new
}> opportunity to sell stuff.
}>
}> http://www.terk.com/pdfs/T0428-HDTVi-LK.pdf
}
}And don't forget the digital coax.
}
}http://www.bettercables.com/digitalcoax.html

Can't afford them...spent all of my money on digital headphones!

Stan.

 

[Jason D.]

On Mon, 23 May 2005 15:24:02 -0700, "sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote:

Kip:
Well, maybe... or maybe not. The OP did not say if he still had picture
and sound.... AND the "high pitched squealing noise" TOO..... if so, the
flylback and HOT are obviously OK, as you obviously would already know.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Kip and others,

RCA had bulletin out on switching power supply noise but that was long
ago so most of chassis had the fix.

But one remain is RCA being cheap didn't secure ferrite beads on
component leads. Secure them with silicone glue by dabbing them to
the PCB and some to end of it to the leads. This will stop the squeal.
There are four beads on two diodes on output side of power supply,
usually one or two on a diode in horizontal circuit.

I had to do this frequently for this complaint and all CTC203 and
ATC113 get same treatment for any reason.

Cheers, Wizard

 

[Jason D.]

On Mon, 23 May 2005 21:57:34 -0400, "Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com>
wrote:

I never said that there was a failsafe test. I simply question the routine
use of output transistors as test devices. We test LOPTs by ringing and
with the Sencore drive test which is simply a H pulse at 30vpp applied to
the primary. Get 500-700 vdc out and it is likely good. Rarely do we find
a bad one that passes both tests. Sometimes a bad one will cause
intermittent failures or overheating, but these are rare. I paid $200 for a
used VA62 on Ebay and the flyback test and ringing tests alone have made it
a worthwhile investment.

It just seems wasteful to me to consider output transistors to be
sacrificial test devices. It seems dangerous as well, since you never know
what else you will take out when it fails. Well, in the case of an AA1
Sony, you do actually...

Leonard

"Art" <plotsligt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:B7mdnRYJcbTiFQ_fRVn-vw@comcast.com...

Knowing the history and specific brands tendency to kill HOT
instantly, had no time to react. That how instant: Push (power
button)CLICK-POW. Either a fuse blows instantly or switching power
supply goes Eeeeeeee!

In generic monitors if I see shorted HOT and checked the driver
circuit if it has electrolytic cap, otherwise JUNK. Cost of flyback
is too costly in repairing out of warranty monitors.

In RCA, Citizen and some other models, when I see a blown HOT
depending on chassis, I usually replace both flyback and HOT and they
work. A failed cap (plastic ones) is extemely rare in many TV except
those few that had small blue disc or had to replace many caps in like
in CTC169. It is all based on experience to make the judgement call.

Cheers, Wizard

 

[Jason D.]

On Mon, 23 May 2005 01:12:04 -0230, "Rono" <rono@nl.rogers.com> wrote:

You guys are missing the info!! These units will not run
with high standby B+. Scopes & EEPROM changes won't
fix it. I tried everything I could think of. Just read again. Rono.

RCA 25" M # 25GT536, chassis # CTC177AG. Unit was dead,
replaced STK-730-010 (shorted), R104 1.5 meg ohm (gone high),
C4105 10UF @ 250 Volt (gone leaky), checked/replaced CR4108
(130 volt line), changed C4402 (warped), 12 volts, & 5 volts standby
is fine, 5 volts to EEPROM, & tact switches, but 130 volt line is +146
volts dc. B+ to LA7610 main jungle IC +7 volts. B+ to horizontal output,
& drive is + 146 volts, & unit won't start. What did I miss? Rono.

Rono, 146V in standby is normal. These chassis usually run between
130 to 140V B+ depending on models using this chassis.

Unsolder the transformer and measure all the resistors to be sure,
replace 10uF 63V in two locations; both are on both sides of that
STK-730, one for SMPS, one for horizontal area. I find them bad nearly
80% of time.

BUT, that can be caused by bad solder in tuner & micro grounds and
that means eeprom can be corrupt. Chipper check will fix this up by
reiniting the eeprom or replace the eeprom but that will be more
involved setting up other settings. UGH, that why I use chipper
check. and maybe have to align the tuner (57 of them for 19 channels
settings in groups of 3). Service manual is a must for consulting
when setting up eeprom contents.

By the way, get the horizontal driver transformer out and scrape pins
on it clean get waxy stuff out of holes, reinstall & resolder.
Carefully check that 2.4K off the emitter of the small SMD transistor
in the horizontal driver circuit.

Cheers, Wizard

 

[Jim Adney]

On Tue, 24 May 2005 00:34:18 -0500 none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:

I miss the days when you could buy a battery that was serviceable.
A heavy glass plate case with bolt on top and removable plates.
They would last forever as long as one was willing to do a bit of
service work.

I'm afraid I'm not old enough to have ever seen one of those. When
were they used?

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[Jason D.]

On 23 May 2005 19:05:10 -0700, "captainvideo462002@yahoo.com"
<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote:

There are some discrete components on this board I can test but there
is also a chip I know noting about. Are there any specific tests I can
make to rule the chip or for that matter the entire board out? Thanks,
Lenny.

Lenny, this chip is LMxxx dual op amp, you can google for the
datasheet on IC by 'net by typing in part number on that IC by google
LM358 pdf

RCA very often didn't form the legs on that PIN transistor so means
transistor isn't sitting flat on the heatsink and it fries. The 68uF
NP can be bad as well (usually swelled or burst.)

ATC113 and CTC203 is exact same in horizontal circuits, vertical and
power supply. Changed in micro, jungle and video signals which is
more complicated than CTC203!! And different AV boards depending on
models. So your experience in that areas is good.

HOWEVER: When I see a blown HOT and no glue on the L14401 (I think
LL0x in case of ATC113), therefore the flyback transformer is bad as
well. As long as the horizontal cap is good. The PIN circuit rarely
takes out the HOT unless owner ingored the warning signs like a severe
bowed picture too long.

Cheers, Wizard

 

[James Sweet]

"Jason Cobham" <solid_state@madscience.ath-dot-cx.no-spam.invalid> wrote in
message news:428abe2f$1_2@alt.athenanews.com...

Hi guys. I just picked up a P220f with what looks like the same
vertical deflection problem. I'm about to check the 4n35 optoisolator
to see if that is faulty.
Also about to check the ICB02. basically i'm going to do voltage
measurements and compare them to the data sheet. Any suggestions on a
better way or anything special to look for?

I have already checked ZDB01 and it looks ok.. it should be a 36v
Zener?

any suggestions or help would be really appreciated.

Thanks
-J

The IC is often good, usually one of the 0.1 ohm fusible resistors feeding
it opens.

 

[NSM]

"meirman" <meirman@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:kjk5911bduvl0oi11aq1ilul7kfqkrect8@4ax.com...

Make sure you have adequate water in each cell, and use steam
distilled water. It's for sale at the supermarket in gallon bottles.

The old battery guy I used to go to actually had his own home made water
distiller - quite a big one.

N

 

[none]

On Tue, 24 May 2005 21:03:42 -0500, Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
wrote:

On Tue, 24 May 2005 00:34:18 -0500 none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:

I miss the days when you could buy a battery that was serviceable.
A heavy glass plate case with bolt on top and removable plates.
They would last forever as long as one was willing to do a bit of
service work.

I'm afraid I'm not old enough to have ever seen one of those. When
were they used?

They quit selling them somewhere around the late 40's, early 50's.

Many were still using them for some time after.
My father was an electrical engineer and we had them well into the
60's.
They kinda looked like an aquarium with a bolt on top, Which was made
out of something like bakelite.
You'd buy new plates and electrolyte unbolt the case and swap them
out.
The reason they discontinued their use in autos was for safety reasons
of course. One good smash up and you had acid soaked glass shards
flying around.
Still they'd have their uses in other applications. I'll be moving out
to the middle of nowhere soon and will have to generate my own power
so instead of buying dozens of sealed batteries for my generator setup
rebuildable batterys would make better sense.(I'll pull out some old
Audel's and read up on wet cell theory and design and have a go at
doing it myself.)

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Tue, 24 May 2005 00:34:18 -0500, none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:

I miss the days when you could buy a battery that was serviceable.
A heavy glass plate case with bolt on top and removable plates.
They would last forever as long as one was willing to do a bit of
service work.

And before the glass case came the lead-lined wooden box cells. Both
wood and glass boxes were still in use in telephone exchanges I worked
at during the late 1950's but they were all gone by the early 60's. I
even installed some of the wooden cased cells (made up from parts
which had been kept in storage for 20 years or more) because there was
a shortge in supply of the new polycarbonate cell types.

Changing plates in these old cells was not so simple and it was never
done where I was. You would simply re-build the complete cell with all
new plates. The interconnects between plates were lead-burned in place
- which was an art in itself - and it was next to impossible to
simply cut one plate out for replacement.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

captainvideo462002@yahoo.com wrote:

This unit will sometimes not play certain DVD's. The problem ones are
not home burned but commercial DVD's. I cleaned the laser and looked
on the optical assembly for a pot that I thought I would try to turn
up slightly in case the laser was weak but there was none. There are
two pots on the main board and one very tiny one of the type you would
expect to find on the optical assembly, on a piggy backed board
mounted on stand offs off the main board. I didn't want to touch
anything without knowing what they were though. Can anyone, familiar
with this model know if any of these are the adjustments Im looking
for? Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.

Occasionally there are firmware upgrades. Don't know if this applies to
yours.

Mark Z.

 

[Jim Yanik]

Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in
news:m6n7919sdv12bont965m6ku4f1ugtqeu14@4ax.com:

On Tue, 24 May 2005 00:34:18 -0500 none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:

I miss the days when you could buy a battery that was serviceable.
A heavy glass plate case with bolt on top and removable plates.
They would last forever as long as one was willing to do a bit of
service work.

I'm afraid I'm not old enough to have ever seen one of those. When
were they used?

Gee,who wants to mess around with sulfuric acid and lead paste?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[Ron(UK)]

Jim Yanik wrote:

Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in
news:m6n7919sdv12bont965m6ku4f1ugtqeu14@4ax.com:


On Tue, 24 May 2005 00:34:18 -0500 none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:


I miss the days when you could buy a battery that was serviceable.
A heavy glass plate case with bolt on top and removable plates.
They would last forever as long as one was willing to do a bit of
service work.

I'm afraid I'm not old enough to have ever seen one of those. When
were they used?



Gee,who wants to mess around with sulfuric acid and lead paste?

It`s only a few years ago when I worked in an entertainment venue where
all the emergency lighting was powered by huge glass lead acids, each
about 12" high and wide. there was probably 30 or so cells all connected
together by exposed lead bars bolted to the terminals, you had to watch
where you layed down anything conducting like a spanner!. The charger
was in a filing cabinet sized enclosure with a huge transformer,
selenium plate rectifiers and wobbly meters on the front ;o)

Ron

www.lunevalleyaudio.com

 

[NSM]

"none" <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote in message
news:kvb8915vbnc3gdvhe1p5svbnop2ie0epab@4ax.com...

They quit selling them somewhere around the late 40's, early 50's.
Many were still using them for some time after.
My father was an electrical engineer and we had them well into the
60's.

I remember seeing something similar but they were the old Edison nickel-iron
batteries, used to start emergency generators. They had high self discharge
rates.

They kinda looked like an aquarium with a bolt on top, Which was made
out of something like bakelite.
You'd buy new plates and electrolyte unbolt the case and swap them
out.
The reason they discontinued their use in autos was for safety reasons
of course. One good smash up and you had acid soaked glass shards
flying around.

I never heard of them being used in autos although IIRC Edison wanted to use
them for an electric auto.

N

 

[Stormin Mormon]

Prophy or cavities?

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com

 

[NSM]

"moonlite" <elect21st@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1117068862.814266.308430@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

Hi- I have an older model Playstation 2 that plays DVD movies but with
a twist: the picture keeps fluctuating from a nice bright picture to
dim, very dim. When it becomes dim it lasts for about 13 seconds then
it brightens up nicely again for a few seconds only to dim again for 13
seconds and the cycle continues. I thought it was the TV, but it does
the same thing on every TV I try. The games play just fine. I only
experience this problem with DVD movies. Has anyone seen this before ?
Thank you.

Sounds a bit like Macrovision protection.

N

 

[jakdedert]

none wrote:

Just a thought but if you want to make that scooter fly try finding a
Honda or Toyo horizontal shaft motor.
You can usually get them off pressure washers with bad pumps as those
motors can't be killed short of running them with NO oil and they are
usually high horse powered, 7 to 12.
These motors have high spin and good torque and can get that bike up
to 50mph.( I'd done that for so local yahoo a couple years back for
his camp mini-bike. Saw him last month and he had a pronounced limp so
I guess he got all the speed he wanted.)

You must've missed the part about the sixties. That kart is long gone, now.
I think it crashed when we were pulling it with a horse. Riders (both the
one on the horse, and--thankfully--the one on the cart as well) got off for
refreshments, and the horse decided to make an unscheduled run. I believe a
fence post did it in...stopped the horse, though.

Kids. Somehow I wonder how we survived.....

jak