Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1116731648.732438.294130@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
<wrongaddress@att.net> wrote:

Is it possible to resurrect a lead acid battery from the dead?

I have an old 12 volt automobile battery that was stored for
sometime in a discharged state.

No. The only way to store a *good* battery is to fully charge it then
drain the acid and rinse out with suitable soft water. Seal it in shrink
wrap and it will keep for many years, to be revived with fresh electrolyte
and a re-charge.

--
*It's lonely at the top, but you eat better.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1116810969.484640.9570@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
<ZZactly@aol.com> wrote:

The format of the output of a DVD player is almost entirely dependant
on the DVD player, with few exceptions.

Come on, they got progressive scan, a number of HDTV formats and who
knows what else. The true resolution of a DVD disc can be waaaaay
higher than we'll ever see on an actual TV.

Resolution on a static picture, yes. But it all gets rather messy with
movement. And the depths of colours. The definitive pro video recorder is
the DigiBeta, and you won't get that amount of data on a DVD.

Now, PAL is dead, as dead as NTSC. I must admit that PAL was better,
it's all a mute point now. This discussion is somewhat like older
discussions with people who have Beta tapes or Laser disks.

They were both a method of getting analogue compatible colour and B&W
pictures over a single circuit. PAL being later was obviously better.

All in all, there are hacks, and such things are nessecary. There is
also copying. There is also getting just the right DVD player using an
IDE drive and putting an authentication free DVD drive in it. It should
play in the format for which it was designed at that point.

How can a DVD drive in a computer play in whatever size window you
dictate ? Random access memory.

Why (if you take the lid off), if you stop a DVD while it's playing you
get a freeze frame, and possibly a few more seconds of audio ? Same
answer: random access memory.

I respect the technology and what must've gone into it, but I think it
was pretty shitty of them to come up with this region crap.

Big business rulz.

--
*If horrific means to make horrible, does terrific mean to make terrible?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[kip]

Check out the Pin diode and other parts on the Pin Board.
kip
<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1116869540.236053.161310@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

I've never worked on one of these. This looks alot like a CTC203
chassis. I found that the HOT is shorted. I was going to replace it and
do the coil which looks the same as on the 203 chassis. Am I correct in
assuming that this repair is similar to the 203? Also are the flybacks
on these chassis as troublesome as the 203's were or did they resolve
that issue with these ATC chassis? Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen
Electronics

 

[kip]

Flyback and HOT...!!
Whats the CTC number ?/


kip
<gigantor919@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1116876909.903678.137960@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

I left my F32444 (32" RCA Entertainment Series) TV on all day by
accident. When I came how it was making a high pitched squealing noise
that sort of ocilates. Is there anything I can do to fix it? Or is it
beyond repair?

Thanks in advance!

 

[kip]

Actually if its a ATC XXX or whatever maybe the HOT is S/C
and the pin circuit also has trouble.
What's the Chassis number CTC XXX?


kip
"kip" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:newscache$ekqygi$kam$1@newsfeed.niagara.com...

Flyback and HOT...!!
Whats the CTC number ?/


kip
gigantor919@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1116876909.903678.137960@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
I left my F32444 (32" RCA Entertainment Series) TV on all day by
accident. When I came how it was making a high pitched squealing noise
that sort of ocilates. Is there anything I can do to fix it? Or is it
beyond repair?

Thanks in advance!

 

[petrus bitbyter]

"Ted Wood" <ted.wood@eawood.com> schreef in bericht
news:JZlke.796$dZ5.237511@news20.bellglobal.com...

I've "inherited" an ESI-2841 network print server, but the AC adapter is
missing. It's been about 15 years since I've been involved in
electronics, but I opened up the unit and found that it uses an LT1076CQ-5
voltage regulator. The spec sheet for the LT1076 indicates that it has a
minimum voltage input is around 8VDC and a maximum input voltage of around
40VDC, I'm concluding that I could use any old AC adapter that has a
rectified DC output in the range of 9-12VDC (as long as I can find the
correct plug).

Can anyone validate my thinking on this?

Looks like good thinking to me. If you want to be very safe just hook up a
lab powersupply at 8V and check for the current. Increase the voltage. The
current should not increase rather decrease a little. Also check the
temperature of the regulator. If you burn your fingers on it, it's too hot.
My guess is that you can safely use 8V to 12V. Now make sure that the
rectified and smoothed voltage of your new adaptor does not fall below 8V
during operation.

petrus bitbyter

 

[Art]

Pin cushion board may cause your problem. Possible available as a part.
<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1116894802.091905.308960@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Just a sequel to the above post. I replaced the HOT and redid the coil
and now when plugging the set in I hear that little chirp which usually
means the SMPS is alive. I then try to power up and it looks like the
HV makes three attempts and then quits. I know this is sparse
information but does this sound like anything common on this set?
Thanks, Lenny

 

[Art]

Leonard: Unless you have an absolute failsafe way of testing the LOPT
without sacrificing a transistor we will continue to do it our way. Ringing
will tell us if indeed there is a fault in one of the transformers windings,
or maybe a shorted diode in the rectifier portion. However, without dynamic
testing we will not find the cracked casing unless there is the brown ooze
already coming out of it. Even with these nice Sencore 325's that we are now
using. I like Ron's idea for bench testing however in the field it may
become a bit cumbersome.
"RonKZ650" <RonKZ650@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1116885681.167578.257110@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I really don't know any other way to do it other than powering up the
set. Ringing a flyback is not going to reveal a cracked case arcing
problem. What I have done is make 2 test transistors, one with a
damper, one without out of old obsolete TV outputs such as old 2SC1172
metal case outputs, and old outputs from TVs like the GE PC chassis.
Use the original metal mounting plate from an old set that had a socket
like a mid 80s Zenith. Run a foot or two of wiring to the socket. Now
when an output transistor is shorted, after doing all the pre power up
checks, instead of replacing the transistor, I simply run the wiring
from the test transistor to the board and solder. Turn the set on with
a HV probe that has min/max memory in the anode then quickly unplug and
see if HV normal. If arcing happens and the test transistor is shorted,
takes 30 seconds to replace it with another junk TV output. All free.
Works for me. Saves some work, and I've found these old transistors
pretty much will work any TV for a test anyway.

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

I never said that there was a failsafe test. I simply question the routine
use of output transistors as test devices. We test LOPTs by ringing and
with the Sencore drive test which is simply a H pulse at 30vpp applied to
the primary. Get 500-700 vdc out and it is likely good. Rarely do we find
a bad one that passes both tests. Sometimes a bad one will cause
intermittent failures or overheating, but these are rare. I paid $200 for a
used VA62 on Ebay and the flyback test and ringing tests alone have made it
a worthwhile investment.

It just seems wasteful to me to consider output transistors to be
sacrificial test devices. It seems dangerous as well, since you never know
what else you will take out when it fails. Well, in the case of an AA1
Sony, you do actually...

Leonard

"Art" <plotsligt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:B7mdnRYJcbTiFQ_fRVn-vw@comcast.com...

Leonard: Unless you have an absolute failsafe way of testing the LOPT
without sacrificing a transistor we will continue to do it our way.
Ringing
will tell us if indeed there is a fault in one of the transformers
windings,
or maybe a shorted diode in the rectifier portion. However, without
dynamic
testing we will not find the cracked casing unless there is the brown ooze
already coming out of it. Even with these nice Sencore 325's that we are
now
using. I like Ron's idea for bench testing however in the field it may
become a bit cumbersome.
"RonKZ650" <RonKZ650@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1116885681.167578.257110@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I really don't know any other way to do it other than powering up the
set. Ringing a flyback is not going to reveal a cracked case arcing
problem. What I have done is make 2 test transistors, one with a
damper, one without out of old obsolete TV outputs such as old 2SC1172
metal case outputs, and old outputs from TVs like the GE PC chassis.
Use the original metal mounting plate from an old set that had a socket
like a mid 80s Zenith. Run a foot or two of wiring to the socket. Now
when an output transistor is shorted, after doing all the pre power up
checks, instead of replacing the transistor, I simply run the wiring
from the test transistor to the board and solder. Turn the set on with
a HV probe that has min/max memory in the anode then quickly unplug and
see if HV normal. If arcing happens and the test transistor is shorted,
takes 30 seconds to replace it with another junk TV output. All free.
Works for me. Saves some work, and I've found these old transistors
pretty much will work any TV for a test anyway.

 

[Bob Shuman]

I have found from experience that if you keep a lead acid battery fully
charged using a trickle charger, and make sure the water is kept full as
well that it will keep for many , many years.

Bob

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4d6fb15843dave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <1116731648.732438.294130@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
wrongaddress@att.net> wrote:
Is it possible to resurrect a lead acid battery from the dead?

I have an old 12 volt automobile battery that was stored for
sometime in a discharged state.

No. The only way to store a *good* battery is to fully charge it then
drain the acid and rinse out with suitable soft water. Seal it in shrink
wrap and it will keep for many years, to be revived with fresh electrolyte
and a re-charge.

--
*It's lonely at the top, but you eat better.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Jim Adney]

On Mon, 23 May 2005 13:30:27 GMT Ken Weitzel <kweitzel@shaw.ca> wrote:

Just off the top of my head, I suspect that at 50 ma's
he'd better start charging it now if you wants to use it
next winter

Yes, it will seem agonizingly slow, but it needs to be slow because
the lead sulfate can only be converted to lead as quickly as it will
go into solution, and the lead sulfate in a sulfated cell is much less
soluble than that in a freshly discharged cell (different crystal
structure.)

If you try to force the charging process, you'll just hydrolize water,
and this can damage the sintered plates if it happens too vigorously.

You don't want to "drive off" the lead sulfate, as that takes sulfate
ions out of circulation and just leads to buildup at the bottom of the
cell which will eventually short it out.

With patience, this will generally work if the only problem is
sulfation, which is what happens to a battery that is left in a
discharged state for a long time. The lead sulfate slowly converts to
a much less soluble crystal structure over time.

I've done this many times, but it doesn't always work. About half the
time you'll find that one or more of the cells are shorted and the
battery is only useful as a tradein.

I have never managed to restore a shorted cell.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[none]

On Mon, 23 May 2005 22:57:50 -0500, Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
wrote:

On Mon, 23 May 2005 13:30:27 GMT Ken Weitzel <kweitzel@shaw.ca> wrote:

Just off the top of my head, I suspect that at 50 ma's
he'd better start charging it now if you wants to use it
next winter

Yes, it will seem agonizingly slow, but it needs to be slow because
the lead sulfate can only be converted to lead as quickly as it will
go into solution, and the lead sulfate in a sulfated cell is much less
soluble than that in a freshly discharged cell (different crystal
structure.)

If you try to force the charging process, you'll just hydrolize water,
and this can damage the sintered plates if it happens too vigorously.

You don't want to "drive off" the lead sulfate, as that takes sulfate
ions out of circulation and just leads to buildup at the bottom of the
cell which will eventually short it out.

With patience, this will generally work if the only problem is
sulfation, which is what happens to a battery that is left in a
discharged state for a long time. The lead sulfate slowly converts to
a much less soluble crystal structure over time.

I've done this many times, but it doesn't always work. About half the
time you'll find that one or more of the cells are shorted and the
battery is only useful as a tradein.

I have never managed to restore a shorted cell.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

I miss the days when you could buy a battery that was serviceable.
A heavy glass plate case with bolt on top and removable plates.
They would last forever as long as one was willing to do a bit of
service work.

 

[me]

"Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com> wrote in news:q4kke.3409$5p.934@lakeread02:

"Art" <plotsligt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:Ar-dnS5GIq7qkgzfRVn-iA@comcast.com...
Sad to say, either a ringer to test the LOPT before replacing the output
transistor or estimate to include the LOPT as a nominal repair. IMHO the
cost of the output transistor is small price to pay to do a dynamic test
on
the LOPT. Seen a lot of these transformers fail not only in the larger
sizes
but also the 27" versions.

Did I read that right? You think that blowing outputs is a reasonable way
to diagnose a bad LOPT? Please finish this line of reasoning...

Leonard

its a lot cheaper than the hi-pot test equipment you would need...

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[meirman]

In sci.electronics.repair on 21 May 2005 20:14:08 -0700
wrongaddress@att.net posted:

Is it possible to resurrect a lead acid battery from the dead?

I have an old 12 volt automobile battery that was stored for
sometime in a discharged state. The battery voltage read around
6 volts in the discharged state. I charged it at 1 amp for 10 hours and
then tested the capacity using a automotive tail light drawing 1.3
amps. The battery voltage fell from 12.5 volts to around 9 volts within
1.5 hours indicating the capacity was not too much.

When I again recharged the battery, it sustained the load for
a longer period indicating the capacity had increased to
around 5 amp hours.

I'm wondering if cycling the battery over several charge and
discharge cycles will improve the capacity?

This charge and discharge cycling seems to improve the capacity
for a couple cycles, how much improvement should I expect from
several charge and discharge dycles?

-Bill

Make sure you have adequate water in each cell, and use steam
distilled water. It's for sale at the supermarket in gallon bottles.
Also useful in steam irons. (although my plastic bottle started
leaking after 5 or 10 years.) The cell is full when the water level
is high enough that it reaches the bottom of the circular tube through
which one fills the battery. One can see that this is the case when
he sees the miniscus in a circle around the bottom of the tube. When
the level is lower, there is a miniscus, but it is along the edges of
the much larger rectangle that is the cross section of a cell *below*
the filler tube. In other words, when you can see the miniscus, the
battery cell is sufficiently full. Don't fill much more than that.

Though there are some sealed autobatteries I think, most of them now
are designed to look like they are sealed. That is, they don't have
the 6 soda-pop-bottle top caps that batteries used to have, one for
each cell. Instead there are 2 flat panels that pry off, each with
three caps molded to the bottom. I think there is usually a 2 or 3
inch, narrow slot somewhere along the edge that indicates the cap
comes off, and is a good place to pry, but I'm not sure how obvious it
is in all models.


i HAVEN'T paid too much attention lately, but when I did, everything I
ever heard was that one had to charge a lead acid battery slowly to
get the best result.

If one charges too fast, the lead in solution gets deposited back on
the lead plate before the lead sulfate** can dissolve. The result is
what is called spongey lead. I guess one problem that results from
this is that the sulfate radicals are no longer dissolved and
therefore there is not as much H2SO4.

So a one amp charger is very good. And slower would be better I
guess, but one would have to do something additional to make it
slower. When I ran my battery down to the ground, unintentionally but
for reasons I forget right now (leaving the lights on?) it would take
about 24 hours to recharge it with a one amp charger. (I guess at 50
milliamps it would take about 20 days, n'est pas?)

When I got a jump and had to go somewhere and was therefore going to
recharge the battery while driving, I kept the heater fan on high and
the headlights on to slow the charging rate, but I probably didn't
slow it enough.


Charging the battery tends to emit hydrogen through the vents, which
is why people are warned against sparks and to have adequate
ventilation, and I already mentioned the loss of sulfate radicals, the
other half of sulfuric acid. Yet, I've also read not to add more
acid, since by the theory that goes with that, only water is lost from
the battery. The two seem to contradict each other.


**PbSO4, I think it is, but maybe it was lead oxide (PbO2),

What makes lead acid batteries rechargeable is that the products of
electrical generation remain either in solution or soluable. In, for
example, carbon zinc flashlight batteries, this is not the case.

However, not all gets redissolved, and there is an empty inch or two
at the bottom of batteries where chunks of lead compounds, or detached
lead can settle. For this purpose, the more empty space the better,
because I think the most common cause of cell shorting is that the
level of junk in the bottom gets high enough to touch two consecutive
plates, or two other plates that should not be connected, except
through the acid solution. OTOH, the more empty space at the bottom,
either the bigger the battery and the more acid needed, or the smaller
the plates and the lower the maximum output per time.

Meirman
--
If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.

 

[Rheilly Phoull]

One day mhugues got dressed and committed to text

i have a 90 ft well with a submersible pump in a gun club that is not
occupied very often. when we turn on the pump the pressure gage
immediatly goe to about 30lbs while the pump runs continuously. you
can then use the sink while only losing a few lbs. of pressure but it
will continue to operate. if you turn off the faucet and then turn
off the pum the gage will hold that 30 lbs. for days. if however you
turn on the water when the pump is off the pressur drops to zero
within 2 seconds and you then have no water. we have approx a 20
gallon tank but it does not appear to have any water in it. the
bladder appears to be holding 25-30 lbs of presuure as well. does
this sound like a pump issue or is my tank possibly water logged? we
have many chiefs in this gun club who all have an opinion bgut the
bottom line is, the pump runs continuously. any thoughts?

thanks, mike

The lack of "reserve" certainly sounds like a bladder problem. The best
practical method is to strip the tank and make sure. For the pump to run
continuously I would also check the operation of the pressure switch, one
problem source is a blocked restrictor or "pulsation damper" orifice in the
pressure switch. That can be examined by removing the switch and looking
into the connecting adaptor (REMEMBER disconnect the mains first).

--
Regards ..... Rheilly Phoull

 

[meirman]

In sci.electronics.repair on Mon, 23 May 2005 23:00:20 -0500 "Bob
Shuman" <reshuman@removethis.lucent.com> posted:

I have found from experience that if you keep a lead acid battery fully
charged using a trickle charger, and make sure the water is kept full as
well that it will keep for many , many years.

Bob

I guess this is OT, but I like this story. In 1966 I had a '50 Olds
with a 6-volt battery, not strong enough unless totally charged to
start my big V-8 in the cold Chicago winter (which is why they started
using 12 volt) I had a 1 amp 6volt/12volt charger, given to me by my
cousin who gave me the car.

I put the charger inside the hood and plugged into an extension cord
whenever I was home, but 6 volts was not enough, and I then set it to
12 volts. And the car started all winter. Inside the charger, the
glass circuit breaker (which looked like a long glass neon light or a
small xmas tree light) tripped ever 30 seconds and reset automatically
5 seconds later, and it ran like that day and night for 4 months. I
guess that is about 300,000 times. Years later I had to replace the
selenium rectifier with regular diodes, but now it is almost 40 years
later and the charger still works fine, including its circuit breaker.

The extension cord was something I made up from heavy twisted-pair
wire, with steel strands it seemed, rather than copper. It plugged
into the pantry of the place we lived and two of the four months,
although suspended at both ends, the wire was under the snow for 15
feet, but that didn't cause any problem either. Not even a blown fuse
inside where the house.

Meirman
--
If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.

 

[kip]

Well i can only go by the little info given
as always never very explicit.

kip
"sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:1194m26jfdnsac6@corp.supernews.com...

Kip:
Well, maybe... or maybe not. The OP did not say if he still had picture
and sound.... AND the "high pitched squealing noise" TOO..... if so, the
flylback and HOT are obviously OK, as you obviously would already know.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"kip" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:newscache$ekqygi$kam$1@newsfeed.niagara.com...
Flyback and HOT...!!
Whats the CTC number ?/


kip
gigantor919@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1116876909.903678.137960@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
I left my F32444 (32" RCA Entertainment Series) TV on all day by
accident. When I came how it was making a high pitched squealing noise
that sort of ocilates. Is there anything I can do to fix it? Or is it
beyond repair?

Thanks in advance!

 

[sofie]

kip...
what's the matter? Isn't your crystal ball working? You might want to
check the tea leaves too !
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -



"kip" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:newscache$bduzgi$2j$1@newsfeed.niagara.com...

Well i can only go by the little info given
as always never very explicit.

kip
"sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:1194m26jfdnsac6@corp.supernews.com...
Kip:
Well, maybe... or maybe not. The OP did not say if he still had
picture
and sound.... AND the "high pitched squealing noise" TOO..... if so, the
flylback and HOT are obviously OK, as you obviously would already know.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"kip" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:newscache$ekqygi$kam$1@newsfeed.niagara.com...
Flyback and HOT...!!
Whats the CTC number ?/


kip
gigantor919@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1116876909.903678.137960@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
I left my F32444 (32" RCA Entertainment Series) TV on all day by
accident. When I came how it was making a high pitched squealing
noise
that sort of ocilates. Is there anything I can do to fix it? Or is
it
beyond repair?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

What about the power supply?

Leonard

"Mark" <makolber@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1116963612.910033.156590@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

maybe we can improve on ron's idea....

get a really large test transistor and add some extra zener protection
and current limiting so that if there is a arc, the test transistor
will survive.


Mark

 

[Andrew Rossmann]

[This followup was posted to sci.electronics.repair and a copy was sent
to the cited author.]

In article <1116968312.527628.31260@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
elect21st@aol.com says...

Hello- Does anyone know if a regular rabbit ear antenna is capable of
capturing HDTV signals ? Thank you.

As far as an antenna is concerned, a signal is a signal. It doesn't
know anything about analog or digital.

That said, you do need the right type of antenna. Most digital
broadcasts (not all digital is HD) are UHF. The typical two-pole 'rabbit
ears' are only for VHF (2-13). Just because the analog is on VHF doesn't
mean the digital version is. Here in Chicago, the only VHF digital is
WBBM-TV/WWBM-DT (analog 2, digital 3). UHF usually uses either some form
of round antenna, or those arrow-shaped directional things like the
often mention 'silver star', or bow-tie shaped, sometimes with a
reflector (grid or similar behind bow-tie) behind it.

--
If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying!
All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the
law!!
http://home.att.net/~andyross