Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

none wrote:
On Wed, 18 May 2005 11:43:48 -0500, "jakdedert"
jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

James Sweet wrote:
No doubt....

On a different subject; the last time I had occasion to check the
Repair FAQ regarding a lawnmower issue, (I had a shear key problem
which was easily fixed with the info contained there. Thanks, Sam)
I noticed a very interesting dialogue concerning the relative
merits of Briggs and Tecumseh small engines.

Being how it's much too late (probably) to get my $.02 in the FAQ,
I thought I'd post my opinion here:

IME, Briggs motors are much more 'finicky' for starting and
maintenance, but they last longer and use much less gas and oil.

The Tecumsehs (I have two of those, and one Briggs & Stratton)
start much easier, although that's probably due to the priming
bulb which my Briggs does not have. They start using oil right
out of the box, however. I have to check and add oil on almost
every use. My Eager1 uses almost twice as much fuel to mow the
same yard as my older Briggs of the same horsepower and cut width.
I almost never have to add oil to the Briggs in an entire season.

Given the greater oil and gas consumption, I assume that the
Tecumsehs are emitting considerably more pollutants per hour of
use. The consumables only add a negligible amount to my lawn-care
costs every year; but multiplied by (however many millions) of
them out there.....

Any thoughts?

jak


Well it's hard to say these days, back when I was tinkering with
this stuff a lot I was dealing with engines made mostly in the
1970's and the Briggs motors were very noticeably better made and
easier to work on. The Tecumsehs' were nothing but a pain in the
ass, carb problems, ignition problems, a few common models would
regularly throw rods. It was no shock since they were always about
40% cheaper than a comparable B&S. Now days I don't really know,
the Tecumseh engines seem to have improved somewhat, while the
Briggs engines have gotten *very* noticeably poorer. Somebody said
they're now made in Asia so perhaps that's when the quality took a
dive. BTW the new ones do have a primer bulb, haven't tried
starting one though. My mom has an old mower with a Tecumseh and it
does actually start quite easily though I have to take apart the
carb and clean out the banjo bolt on the float bowl every year,
never had to do that with an old Briggs. Unfortunatly I never
compared fuel consumption but I don't recall oil usage problems on
either.

I've not had to pull the carb on either of my Tec's, but the Briggs
(bought new in the early 90's) is laid up until I can pull the carb
and determine if it's the cause of the hard starting. Both Tec's
have worked reliably since I aquired them, except for the shear pin,
which was result of operator error, of course. This morning I
pulled out one of them and oil was below the dipstick. (5.5 hp,
self propelled pusher...I ran two+ tanks of gas through it last
session, and oil was full when I started...need to check more often!)

However, both of them were aquired used, as opposed to the Briggs.
I wonder if they were abused in an earlier life. I had one other
many years ago, and it 'used' oil/gas as well. It might have been
old enough to have been made in the 70's...thrift store find.

I'm glad to hear Tecumseh quality is going up. Except for needing
to keep a close watch on the oil, and seemingly needing to fill gas
more often, both of these mowers have been relatively flawless.

It's also a shame about Briggs & Stratton. The first engine I ever
worked on was a horizontal shaft Briggs which came off my dads old
reel-type power mower from the 50's. I pulled it off the mower some
time in the mid-60's, used a pipe wrench to break the rings free and
mounted it on a go-cart. It was too small for the application at a
(maybe two, it's been a long time) horse and a half, but it ran well.

jak

Yes the earlier Techumsehs did have a problem regards to burning oil.
They were built terribly cheap way back.
And yep, the earlier B&S engines were built like a tank.
The problem with using the older Briggs horizontal shaft motors for
go-carts or minibikes was they had low rpms and not much torque.
The ones they marketed specifically for that purpose were setup tp
spin a bit faster and had higher compression.
You could fudge a bit with some of the 3hp models by resetting the
mean idle on the govenor springs and either rejetting the carb for
quicker response or replacing it with a bigger throated one so the
engine could breath a bit better.
Using a low hp engine like a 2 or a 2 and a half you'd have had to
change out the drive sprocket for a much larger one to make it an easy
pull. Which of course would have made it as slow as a turtle.
Which it was...it could barely get out of it's own way <g>.

jak
 
"Alan Truelove" <alan_truelove@hofmail.com> wrote in message
news:1116482012.6dbb0af3ddf3b643078a871812f16fff@teranews...
This is spam!

I have reported you for constantly spamming this newsgroup on a subject
irrelevent to to this newsgroup.

This is cam.misc for details of what's happening in Cambridge, UK. This
is not a religious group.
He's one of the most notorious spammers on the net. Google gives him free
reign to do this and won't try to stop him. If I can find him I'll introduce
him to Jesus - in person.


N
 
Yes, measure beetween base of horizontal output
& the drive transformer. The foil is likely opened @
the coil. Rono. RCA has very flimsy pcb's.
 
"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message news:ho4je.4757$9A2.1873@edtnps89...

He's one of the most notorious spammers on the net. Google gives him free
reign to do this and won't try to stop him.
Why not? Did you ask Google?
 
"Alan Truelove" <alan_truelove@hofmail.com> wrote in message
news:1116568584.09ac15d7b027a6c25b17acdda8d5fc51@teranews...
"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
news:ho4je.4757$9A2.1873@edtnps89...

He's one of the most notorious spammers on the net. Google gives him
free
reign to do this and won't try to stop him.

Why not? Did you ask Google?
Yes. You try them. Maybe if enough people complain ....

N
 
"Lex" <lexlo@iname.com> wrote in message news:1116615462.444195.42880@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I've got a real head-scratcher. I've got an older NAD 5340 cdplayer
that aside from a little more hunting and tracking than newer cd
players it has a great sound EXCEPT for a few select cds.

On some cdroms (Peter Gabriel's 'Shaking the Tree' for instance) the
sound makes me think the DAC is losing it's place or something because
the sound is almost scratchy. (didn't think that was possible with a
cdrom drive) The disc is in GREAT shape with no visible scratches.

Now here is where things get weird, when I copy the cd and play the
copy, it sounds fantastic. (confused enough already?)

I downloaded a repair guide (for the 5420 and 5425) but there is
nothing that even mentions 'scratchy sound'.

The only things I can think of is that either the laser is going
(wouldn't explain why CDRs work though) or a combination of a worn
transport with an unbalanced disc?
Sounds like a bad CD. If it's producing lots of read errors,
the player can correct only a portion of them.
 
Ron4512392@yahoo.com wrote:
This is the most important question of your life.
The question is: Are you saved?
It is not a question of how good you are, nor if you
are a church member, but are you saved?
Yes, I've been saving since I was a kid. I started with a small piggy
bank that my mom gave me, and then I opened a savings account and then
later, a money market fund. Eventually I opened a brokerage account and
an IRA. I hope to retire early having been saving like this. Thank you
for asking.
 
xiongnu@my-deja.com wrote:
hi, all

snip

I have a couple of questions:

1. how does the heat sink related with system power? Is it always
true that the system power will only deliver once the heat sink is in
place?
Was the fan connected? Some won't start until it is. The processor might
have thermaled out, telling the p.s. to shut down...usually this takes a few
seconds. If so, lucky you didn't fry the cpu.
2. I noticed on the 20 pin motherboard cable, only one pin has voltage
( a 5V), but I know the 20 pin cable delivers different level of
voltages to the system (12v, 5v, 3v, etc). is it because those lines
didn't detect any loads hence it won't deliver power? ( I
disconnected the power cable from motherboard during voltage
measurement).

Yes, there are dummy loads, usually a few light bulbs, that you can connect
in order to test the p.s. without a computer, but they won't turn on unless
the mb tells them to....

3. I have Dell dimension T600 mini-tower system and it's equipped
with a Intel 440BX motherboard, does anyone know if it's ATX
compliant? I couldn't fit a ATX motherboard onto the chassis.
You answered your own question...probably a Dell special order from Intel.
Dell makes enough computers that they can special order anything they want,
and you have to go to them for repair parts and upgrades...unless you can
find what you need from another Dell....

jak

Thanks in advance.
 
"Lex" <lexlo@iname.com> wrote in message
news:1116615462.444195.42880@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I've got a real head-scratcher. I've got an older NAD 5340 cdplayer
that aside from a little more hunting and tracking than newer cd
players it has a great sound EXCEPT for a few select cds.

On some cdroms (Peter Gabriel's 'Shaking the Tree' for instance) the
sound makes me think the DAC is losing it's place or something because
the sound is almost scratchy. (didn't think that was possible with a
cdrom drive) The disc is in GREAT shape with no visible scratches.

Now here is where things get weird, when I copy the cd and play the
copy, it sounds fantastic. (confused enough already?)

I downloaded a repair guide (for the 5420 and 5425) but there is
nothing that even mentions 'scratchy sound'.

The only things I can think of is that either the laser is going
(wouldn't explain why CDRs work though) or a combination of a worn
transport with an unbalanced disc?


cheers
antony
Maybe it could be something to do with copy protection, or video extras,
or something like that on the discs? I don't have any of the mentioned cds
so I can't say for certain.

Andrew Howard
 
Maybe aclog,maybe you dropped the belt off with the sudden change.
<mmdir2002@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1116395077.078634.184550@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I have Whirlpool washing machine about 15 yr old. Never had
serious problem unless yesterday I mistakenly turned the timer
while the washer is was pulsing about 30 seconds. I thought it
was done. The water was on the top full level. I manually digged
out most waters. And I tried again. No lucky. It did not drain
the water. What's problem?
 
I would start looking at the PC board
as I suspect you may have damaged it
removing the chassis from the Tray as
you said it finally came out.
There are 2 plastic clips on the sides of the
tray which have to be lifted to release the chassis.
Just a suggestion...
kip

<espexplorer@iname.com> wrote in message
news:1116652607.328860.4440@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
c...@corrcomm.net May 20, 10:18 am said:

1 Do you have a print on this set?
2 There is a PIP Module pluged into main chassis circuit board, Also

contains a/v switching. If you can get use of this bd try it. If not

look at board there is a voltage regulator TO 220 type case, remove
this regulator & try again. I had one the other day The PIP IC was
shorted. Taking Regulator IC out restored pic but PIP Did not work.
If
this helps still need to replace module

Thanks to all who offered suggestions. I was hoping there was a
common fault that would cause this problem. It looks like this is a
more involved repair than I want to get into at this time.

Mark
 
I usually recommend looking at the cost of ownership when considering
repairing or replacing. A 46V25 with clean phosphors and good emission
tests will likely have about 4 or 5 more years of life. If it costs $500 to
fix it the cost of owning it will be about $100/yr. A new comparable set
(not the $900 Akai or Samsung at Costco or Sams) would run about $1100-1500
and could be expected to last 10-12 years. The cost to own would be about
the same. Now consider the relative value of having a widescreen HD set and
a new warranty vs having to dispose of the new one and put out an extra
$600-900 at this time. If the repair cost is $300 it is an easy decision.
If the extra $$ are an issue it makes sense to fix, even at $500.

In general, if a shop is willing to offer any amount for a broken set, the
repair is likely trivial and is worth doing.

Leonard

<ZZactly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1116652942.517202.39560@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
A 46V25 is not a bad set. You can get a picture comparable to a new
NTSC set on most of them. While they didn't use the SD series CRTs,
what they did use seems to have held up ok. With strong CRTs and a
clean mirror and lenses you should be pleased with the picture.

If you get it for free and get it fixed for $300 you are doing good, if
$500 there are second thoughts. As a guideline, if it's $300 to fix but
they'll buy it for $150 or more get it fixed. Ask them straight out,
"what is it worth now, and what is it worth running ? " .

It's best to decide after you have those answers.

JURB
 
Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover" wrote:
"danube" <danube@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1115774517.234286.206270@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hello all,

I have a pair of original Operator's Handbooks for the Lear Siegler
ADM-3Ainteractive display terminal.
One of the manuals is copyright 1975, is 5-1/2"x8-1/2" high, 40
pages or so. The other is copyright 1979, is 8-1/2"x11" high and is
also about 40 pages long. Both seem to cover about the same material,
which includes spec's, some basic use information, settings of
internal
and external dip switches, and info on the interfaces on the rear of
the ADM-3A (RS-232 vs. 20 mA current loop).
Manuals are in good condition, but are of no use to me since I got
rid of my ADM years ago (there's only so much room in the basement for
nostalgia!).

$10 (by check, M.O. or Paypal) gets both of these shipped book
rate
to anyplace in the Continental U.S. Please contact me by e-mail at
danube@adelphia.net - I don't check groups frequently.

Thanks.

Danube

used to have hundreds of them. Now I'm down to about one of each for
both the ADM-1 and ADM-3 and that includes the service manuals. I
supported hundreds of them at work.

I think we dumped the last ADM-3 late last year. It was being kept as a
spare, but the others had been long gone.
---------------------
The most interesting thing is that the ADM-3A *HAS* *NO* *PROCESSOR*!!
It is all 74xx series TTL, a LOT of it, and the manual has the
schematic.

-Steve
--
-Steve Walz rstevew@armory.com ftp://ftp.armory.com/pub/user/rstevew
Electronics Site!! 1000's of Files and Dirs!! With Schematics Galore!!
http://www.armory.com/~rstevew or http://www.armory.com/~rstevew/Public
 
Al wrote:
One of our TV sets is linked to a roof-mounted antenna controlled
by one of those rotor boxes (ours is an Alliance brand, made
by the Genie company.)

The rotor box began to malfunction a few weeks ago, taking a
long time to move after the dial was turned.

Now it's gotten worse. It might move one click when you turn the
dial, but usually doesn't move at all. The dial face does light up.

Any idea what the problem is?

Hi...

Clean and lubricate it?

Ken
 
wrongaddress@att.net wrote:

Is it possible to resurrect a lead acid battery from the dead?

I have an old 12 volt automobile battery that was stored for
sometime in a discharged state. The battery voltage read around
6 volts in the discharged state. I charged it at 1 amp for 10 hours and
then tested the capacity using a automotive tail light drawing 1.3
amps. The battery voltage fell from 12.5 volts to around 9 volts within
1.5 hours indicating the capacity was not too much.

When I again recharged the battery, it sustained the load for
a longer period indicating the capacity had increased to
around 5 amp hours.

I'm wondering if cycling the battery over several charge and
discharge cycles will improve the capacity?

This charge and discharge cycling seems to improve the capacity
for a couple cycles, how much improvement should I expect from
several charge and discharge dycles?

-Bill

Hi Bill...

Charging your battery at 1 amp for 10 hours is little
more than teasing it... :)

If a 1 amp charger is all that's available, you'll have to
charge it for several days before you can do a meaningful
test.

Please do it out of doors.

Take care.

Ken
 
<wrongaddress@att.net> wrote in message
news:1116731648.732438.294130@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Is it possible to resurrect a lead acid battery from the dead?

This charge and discharge cycling seems to improve the capacity
for a couple cycles, how much improvement should I expect from
several charge and discharge dycles?
You need to deep cycle it according to what I have been told. Fully charge
it with a good charger (5 or 10 amps) then run it down with a headlamp load
to dim then repeat. A good battery shop could tell you how to do it.

N
 
"Derk Arts" <derkarts@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1116750889.807975.102680@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hi,

I've got a second hand sony trinitron kv-x531d, bought it yesterday,
all seemed fine when i saw it working at the guys place. But now, it
keeps switching to the video channel. Its like this, im watching a
channel, and it all looks perfect, and then suddenly the image starts
shaking a few times, and then its switches to the video channel.....

Does anyone know what i can do about this??

Thanks..

try unplugging the video scart socket?
 
Al wrote:
One of our TV sets is linked to a roof-mounted antenna controlled
by one of those rotor boxes (ours is an Alliance brand, made
by the Genie company.)

The rotor box began to malfunction a few weeks ago, taking a
long time to move after the dial was turned.

Now it's gotten worse. It might move one click when you turn the
dial, but usually doesn't move at all. The dial face does light up.

Any idea what the problem is?

Most likely the motor/gearbox on the roof would be the problem. The
rotor box is just the power supply, switch and indicator of what
direction the antenna is rotating. The indicator is pulsed around by a
solenoid in the box receiving it's voltage from a cam switch in the
motor/gearbox on the roof. If the indicator is not moving, the rotors
not moving. Other possibility could be wire connections bad.
 
External roof mounted head end, interconnective wiring, interior control
box. Any one of the three can cause problems. I suppose the item has been
use for a fair length of time with no maintenance?? Head end probably needs
to be disassembled, re-lubricated, and checked. Change the control cable
from the control box to the head end, disasemble, clean and lubericate the
control box mechanism also. Otherwise go out and buy a new system, including
cable, and install it.
"John J.Turley" <jturley98@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:42908046_1@news3.buffnet.net...
Al wrote:
One of our TV sets is linked to a roof-mounted antenna controlled
by one of those rotor boxes (ours is an Alliance brand, made
by the Genie company.)

The rotor box began to malfunction a few weeks ago, taking a
long time to move after the dial was turned.

Now it's gotten worse. It might move one click when you turn the
dial, but usually doesn't move at all. The dial face does light up.

Any idea what the problem is?

Most likely the motor/gearbox on the roof would be the problem. The rotor
box is just the power supply, switch and indicator of what direction the
antenna is rotating. The indicator is pulsed around by a solenoid in the
box receiving it's voltage from a cam switch in the motor/gearbox on the
roof. If the indicator is not moving, the rotors not moving. Other
possibility could be wire connections bad.
 

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top