Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[kip]

And its not cheap ..Ouch!
<dkuhajda@locl.net> wrote in message
news:1116348746.617363.71530@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Assuming the run and standby B+ are correct, ~140V, then the focus
divider is bad. Very common failure item on these sets, especially
after B+ had been running high due to the capacitor problems in the
power supply.

After the focus block is replaced, usually the crt socket should also
be replaced to remove the carbon tracing.

Very common, fixed lots of them with this issue.

David

ZZac...@aol.com wrote:
I think I am coming close to being able to do anything with nothing.

This is the second time I've had this paroblem: it arcs between the
two
focus pins. This socket is peculiar to their IDTVs, a bunch of the
Proscan line and a few regular CTC169s. Obviously a CRT socket
replacement was in order but there were none to be had. I was told to
do whatever it takes. This means almost unlimited resources, as long
as
it's done today. We can't wait for a socket or we risk the need to
refund.

When I need to be a hillbilly I try to be the best one I can.

After disassembling the socket and removing the electrodes I cleaned
the plastic with acetone. In one of the tunnels in which the focus
electrodes reside there is still a brown spot. As Alex Harvey said "I
flipped open a packet of cigarettes and considered the situation".

Removing all the material between the pins and replacing it would do
it, but there is no facility for that, nor is there time for anything
to dry overnight.

I always look for the safest, most effective, reliable and REVERSIBLE
modification possible.

I removed the pingrabbers from the socket assy, and had a good hard
look at them. I then decided to straighten the bend they put in it,
put
in my own to retract the grabber about 3 mm from where it used to be
in
relation to the plane of the socket. I then found some 16 ga. wire
with
thicker insulation (like the thicker yoke wires). I took just about
3mm
of insulation from that and put it on the CRT pin.

I felt the insulation engage the body of the socket when I
reinstalled
it. It kinda dropped when I got it really aligned. I checked and
there
was no gap between the pin protector and the socket. The "drop" was
about the same as the length of the insulation.

Set fired up and did not arc. I effectively moved the arcing points 3
mm away from each other.

In your opinion, did I come up with a solution or did I make a mess
waiting to happen ?

Thanks in advance.

JURB

 

[Travis Jordan]

tlbs wrote:

Two separate feeds from the roof; a satellite receiver box; then use a
simple A-B RF switch with 'F' connectors at the input to the TV to
select between the satellite receiver and the Yagi-type TV antenna.

I think most satellite receivers today have a separate antenna input for
OTA reception.

 

[Bill Jeffrey]

tunereye@yahoo.com wrote:

I would like to make it satelite ready & someone said I needed to put
in a diferent grade of coax... is thee a easy way to rplace the cable
withour tearing apart the walls. There are 2 wall jacks. It has an
antenna on the roof.

When you say there is an antenna on the roof, I presume you mean that
there is one of the old Winegard-type crank-up over-the-air VHF/UHF TV
antennas. You want to add a dish somewhere. If this is correct, the
next question is, where do you plan to put the satellite dish? Many
people have good luck using a portable ground-mount dish. Small, light,
easy to set up on a small tripod, easy to adjust the aiming. And you
can run the wire wherever it is convenient. Dish Network and (what's
the other one?) both offer easy setup ground mounts.

A hard-mounted roof dish is a PITA to add to an existing vehicle.

Bill

 

[CJT]

NSM wrote:

"GanjaTron" <ganjatron@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:1116273372.255613.217250@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

ato_...@hotmail.com wrote:


With switchmodes going into spasm lift/break one rail at a time until
it doesn't spasm/shutdown.

You mean actually *severing* paths on the PCB? Isn't that rather
drastic? :^)


Standard repair method.

Perhaps in some circles.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

 

[Jason Cobham]

Hi guys. I just picked up a P220f with what looks like the same
vertical deflection problem. I'm about to check the 4n35 optoisolator
to see if that is faulty.
Also about to check the ICB02. basically i'm going to do voltage
measurements and compare them to the data sheet. Any suggestions on a
better way or anything special to look for?

I have already checked ZDB01 and it looks ok.. it should be a 36v
Zener?

any suggestions or help would be really appreciated.

Thanks
-J

 

[Asimov]

"ZZactly@aol.com" bravely wrote to "All" (16 May 05 23:17:35)
--- on the heady topic of ""no matter what it takes" (CTC169/Proscan tubes)"

ZZ> From: ZZactly@aol.com
ZZ> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:48416

[,,,]
ZZ> When I need to be a hillbilly I try to be the best one I can.

ZZ> After disassembling the socket and removing the electrodes I cleaned
ZZ> the plastic with acetone. In one of the tunnels in which the focus
ZZ> electrodes reside there is still a brown spot. As Alex Harvey said "I
ZZ> flipped open a packet of cigarettes and considered the situation".
[,,,]


JURB,

You were really close to the solution when you mentioned the acetone.
The idea would be to use some nail polish to cover the brown spot.
The clear stuff would be best. Definitely stay away from the sparkly
metalic finishes. Girls around the office always have some in their
purse. Who knows, you might have got a phone number too. ;-)

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... "Bother!" said Pooh, as he saw the sparks and smelled the smoke.

 

[quietguy]

Many years ago I did a stint on a production line at Kriesler Radio - the
PCB was soldered in the same manner you describe, but as it came off the
solder bath it went straight to the dry joint section where all joints
were checked, and lots needed to be resoldered by hand.

Send you blind doing that checking all day, but luckily for me I only
filled in for one of the girls for a couple of days then went back to
componant replacement.

David



vangard@worldnet.att.net wrote:

I once worked on a problem on a large mainframe computer core memory
caused by one pin on a printed circuit card not having any solder on
it.

This was a sense amplifier card about 4 inches square that was flow
soldered during manufacture.
I had watched them being made in the plant. The cards were pulled
across the top of a pot of molten solder by conveyer belts on each
side. If the defect had been caused by a bubble the bubble would have
had to remain with the pin all the way across the pot. I doubt that.

The trouble was intermittent as the module pin was barely touching the
side of the plated through hole. It started failing about six months
after the system was installed. This occurred after a thunder storm
knocked out the computer room air conditioning and the room reached 90
degrees F. before the customer finally shut the system down.

I always wondered how that defect occurred. It was in the middle of
the card.

Van

 

[NSM]

"CJT" <abujlehc@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:428A9C31.8020809@prodigy.net...

NSM wrote:

Standard repair method.

Perhaps in some circles.

The circles competent repairmen travel in, yes.
--
N

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

option menu 2,3,5,8
factory menu 1,3,7,0
AV menu 1,3,7,9
circuit 2,3,5,7
conv 2,3,5,9

Leonard

<jamieledwell@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1116386809.438482.272920@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Does anyone have the Maintenace code for a VS-50501 rear projection
television?

Thanks allot,
Jamie

 

[Bob Shuman]

We also had a Sears Kenmore (Series 80 I think) that was about the same
vintage and manufactured for Sears by Whirlpool that had a similar symptom.
It turn out to be a small clothing item (a baby's sock) that had managed to
get past the screen and into the drain mechanism so had clogged it up.
Thought I would mention it here since not all failures are always equipment
related.

Bob

"spudnuty" <spudnuty@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:1116429135.847269.257850@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hard to tell from your description but if it is pulsing I just saw one
that was doing the same thing and that sounded like a bad relay to me.
You'd hear the relay try to latch up but it wouldn't . It would pulse
for about 30 seconds and then stop (thermal cutout??) and after a few
minutes start right up and spin the water out. Check the relay,
contacts motor freeplay and temp. There should be a schematic attached
to the back plate or behind the front console.
Richard

 

[jakdedert]

James Sweet wrote:

No doubt....

On a different subject; the last time I had occasion to check the
Repair FAQ regarding a lawnmower issue, (I had a shear key problem
which was easily fixed with the info contained there. Thanks, Sam)
I noticed a very interesting dialogue concerning the relative merits
of Briggs and Tecumseh small engines.

Being how it's much too late (probably) to get my $.02 in the FAQ, I
thought I'd post my opinion here:

IME, Briggs motors are much more 'finicky' for starting and
maintenance, but they last longer and use much less gas and oil.

The Tecumsehs (I have two of those, and one Briggs & Stratton) start
much easier, although that's probably due to the priming bulb which
my Briggs does not have. They start using oil right out of the box,
however. I have to check and add oil on almost every use. My
Eager1 uses almost twice as much fuel to mow the same yard as my
older Briggs of the same horsepower and cut width. I almost never
have to add oil to the Briggs in an entire season.

Given the greater oil and gas consumption, I assume that the
Tecumsehs are emitting considerably more pollutants per hour of use.
The consumables only add a negligible amount to my lawn-care costs
every year; but multiplied by (however many millions) of them out
there.....

Any thoughts?

jak


Well it's hard to say these days, back when I was tinkering with this
stuff a lot I was dealing with engines made mostly in the 1970's and
the Briggs motors were very noticeably better made and easier to work
on. The Tecumsehs' were nothing but a pain in the ass, carb problems,
ignition problems, a few common models would regularly throw rods. It
was no shock since they were always about 40% cheaper than a
comparable B&S. Now days I don't really know, the Tecumseh engines
seem to have improved somewhat, while the Briggs engines have gotten
*very* noticeably poorer. Somebody said they're now made in Asia so
perhaps that's when the quality took a dive. BTW the new ones do have
a primer bulb, haven't tried starting one though. My mom has an old
mower with a Tecumseh and it does actually start quite easily though
I have to take apart the carb and clean out the banjo bolt on the
float bowl every year, never had to do that with an old Briggs.
Unfortunatly I never compared fuel consumption but I don't recall oil
usage problems on either.

I've not had to pull the carb on either of my Tec's, but the Briggs (bought
new in the early 90's) is laid up until I can pull the carb and determine if
it's the cause of the hard starting. Both Tec's have worked reliably since
I aquired them, except for the shear pin, which was result of operator
error, of course. This morning I pulled out one of them and oil was below
the dipstick. (5.5 hp, self propelled pusher...I ran two+ tanks of gas
through it last session, and oil was full when I started...need to check
more often!)

However, both of them were aquired used, as opposed to the Briggs. I wonder
if they were abused in an earlier life. I had one other many years ago, and
it 'used' oil/gas as well. It might have been old enough to have been made
in the 70's...thrift store find.

I'm glad to hear Tecumseh quality is going up. Except for needing to keep a
close watch on the oil, and seemingly needing to fill gas more often, both
of these mowers have been relatively flawless.

It's also a shame about Briggs & Stratton. The first engine I ever worked
on was a horizontal shaft Briggs which came off my dads old reel-type power
mower from the 50's. I pulled it off the mower some time in the mid-60's,
used a pipe wrench to break the rings free and mounted it on a go-cart. It
was too small for the application at a (maybe two, it's been a long time)
horse and a half, but it ran well.

jak

 

[jakdedert]

Sam Goldwasser wrote:

I have added the major parts of this thread to the LM FAQ.

So it wasn't too late. Thanks again, Sam.

jak

Thanks.

 

[jakdedert]

Jerry G. wrote:

If it can work for a number of days with no arcing, maybe you have a
solution that works. There is not much else you can do, if you cannot
have the original or equivalent parts.

Ingenious fix. One thing I would have done, is alert the owner that a new
socket was in order, that the fix 'might' be temporary...tried to get
authorization to order one (on his dime) 'just in case.'

jak

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"jakdedert" <jdedert@bellsouth.net> writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote:
I have added the major parts of this thread to the LM FAQ.

So it wasn't too late. Thanks again, Sam.

Never too late.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Art]

Probably something in the bias circuitry to the CRT or in the video
processing circuitry. Could you post the diagnostics you may have actually
preformed and their results?
"ew123" <ggrps@wildermuth.org> wrote in message
news:1116418264.159887.123120@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I recently obtained an Philips 20PT1553-00 TV set. The picture is
usually relatively dark. I have to turn the brightness and the contrast
fully up to obtain a viewable picture. The effect of the
brightness-control is nearly non-existent. Sometimes (very seldom) the
whole picture brightens up and the brightness-control works. This lasts
usually bwetween 5 and 30 seconds. After that, the picture turns dark
again.

Has anybody experienced something like this before? Does anybody know
what could be wrong?

Thanks

Eberhard

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

dkuhajda@locl.net writes:

No they are not the same.
T5 - time delay
F5 - fast blow

In any case, it's highly likely that the fuse went ping because something
else blew and putting a new one in will do the same thing. But it's
worth trying - once.

--- sam

 

[Alan Truelove]

This is spam!

I have reported you for constantly spamming this newsgroup on a subject
irrelevent to to this newsgroup.

This is cam.misc for details of what's happening in Cambridge, UK. This
is not a religious group.


<Ron4512392@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1116464610.630175.165580@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Best Viewed at << 1024x768
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/alt.religion.christian/browse_thread/thread/52d676d594aae3dd/30f7968f9e2e3925#30f7968f9e2e3925

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[Art]

Convergence output ICs, maybe a couple of low value resistors, possible a
DCU with complete setup requiring an overlay for proper setup. Hard to say
with the lack of diagnostics you have posted.
<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1116460567.401601.124990@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

The customer described this symptom as above adding that the center of
the screen looks fairly ok but the top and bottom is mostly affected.
if I had to guess I would say that it sounds like a dynamic convergence
problem but I've been burned on trying to do these in home convergence
repairs before so I'm not jumping into this one without (hopefully)
some help. I asked him if the convergence screen comes up and works at
all and he says that when he selects "magic focus" he gets a 3. Does
any of this make any sense? I would like to start doing some more in
home service on large screens as the smaller set work is drying up but
I'm not familiar with this set or these symptoms at all. Does this
sound like anything familiar on this set and fixable in the home?
Thanks very much for any assistance. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics

 

[none]

On Wed, 18 May 2005 11:43:48 -0500, "jakdedert"
<jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

James Sweet wrote:
No doubt....

On a different subject; the last time I had occasion to check the
Repair FAQ regarding a lawnmower issue, (I had a shear key problem
which was easily fixed with the info contained there. Thanks, Sam)
I noticed a very interesting dialogue concerning the relative merits
of Briggs and Tecumseh small engines.

Being how it's much too late (probably) to get my $.02 in the FAQ, I
thought I'd post my opinion here:

IME, Briggs motors are much more 'finicky' for starting and
maintenance, but they last longer and use much less gas and oil.

The Tecumsehs (I have two of those, and one Briggs & Stratton) start
much easier, although that's probably due to the priming bulb which
my Briggs does not have. They start using oil right out of the box,
however. I have to check and add oil on almost every use. My
Eager1 uses almost twice as much fuel to mow the same yard as my
older Briggs of the same horsepower and cut width. I almost never
have to add oil to the Briggs in an entire season.

Given the greater oil and gas consumption, I assume that the
Tecumsehs are emitting considerably more pollutants per hour of use.
The consumables only add a negligible amount to my lawn-care costs
every year; but multiplied by (however many millions) of them out
there.....

Any thoughts?

jak


Well it's hard to say these days, back when I was tinkering with this
stuff a lot I was dealing with engines made mostly in the 1970's and
the Briggs motors were very noticeably better made and easier to work
on. The Tecumsehs' were nothing but a pain in the ass, carb problems,
ignition problems, a few common models would regularly throw rods. It
was no shock since they were always about 40% cheaper than a
comparable B&S. Now days I don't really know, the Tecumseh engines
seem to have improved somewhat, while the Briggs engines have gotten
*very* noticeably poorer. Somebody said they're now made in Asia so
perhaps that's when the quality took a dive. BTW the new ones do have
a primer bulb, haven't tried starting one though. My mom has an old
mower with a Tecumseh and it does actually start quite easily though
I have to take apart the carb and clean out the banjo bolt on the
float bowl every year, never had to do that with an old Briggs.
Unfortunatly I never compared fuel consumption but I don't recall oil
usage problems on either.

I've not had to pull the carb on either of my Tec's, but the Briggs (bought
new in the early 90's) is laid up until I can pull the carb and determine if
it's the cause of the hard starting. Both Tec's have worked reliably since
I aquired them, except for the shear pin, which was result of operator
error, of course. This morning I pulled out one of them and oil was below
the dipstick. (5.5 hp, self propelled pusher...I ran two+ tanks of gas
through it last session, and oil was full when I started...need to check
more often!)

However, both of them were aquired used, as opposed to the Briggs. I wonder
if they were abused in an earlier life. I had one other many years ago, and
it 'used' oil/gas as well. It might have been old enough to have been made
in the 70's...thrift store find.

I'm glad to hear Tecumseh quality is going up. Except for needing to keep a
close watch on the oil, and seemingly needing to fill gas more often, both
of these mowers have been relatively flawless.

It's also a shame about Briggs & Stratton. The first engine I ever worked
on was a horizontal shaft Briggs which came off my dads old reel-type power
mower from the 50's. I pulled it off the mower some time in the mid-60's,
used a pipe wrench to break the rings free and mounted it on a go-cart. It
was too small for the application at a (maybe two, it's been a long time)
horse and a half, but it ran well.

jak

Yes the earlier Techumsehs did have a problem regards to burning oil.

They were built terribly cheap way back.
And yep, the earlier B&S engines were built like a tank.
The problem with using the older Briggs horizontal shaft motors for
go-carts or minibikes was they had low rpms and not much torque.
The ones they marketed specifically for that purpose were setup tp
spin a bit faster and had higher compression.
You could fudge a bit with some of the 3hp models by resetting the
mean idle on the govenor springs and either rejetting the carb for
quicker response or replacing it with a bigger throated one so the
engine could breath a bit better.
Using a low hp engine like a 2 or a 2 and a half you'd have had to
change out the drive sprocket for a much larger one to make it an easy
pull. Which of course would have made it as slow as a turtle.

 

[none]

On 17 May 2005 15:44:42 -0700, "Alex Bird"
<alex@redbeastie.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:

none wrote:

You'll need a good grade of lithium grease to relube the gears and
lens barrel, a thin grade of silicone grease will work as well.

I actually used something that calls itself ceramic grease, which I'm
pretty sure is the same stuff cd mechs and so on are greased with.
It's white and light. Whenever I order some promising looking lithium
or silicone grease it turns out not to be what I was expecting at all.

Use of a stiff nylon brush during cleaning is good as well, like a
tooth brush or perhaps acid brushes which can be gotten at your local
hardware store.

I actually used a sable brush, which I normally use for shifting dust,
it's very soft.
Well the sable is good for brushing off the lens surfaces, that's what

I've always used.( been a professional photographer for well over 40
years now.)

This talk of brushes has reminded me of a brush I had years ago, but
lost, never seen one since. It was like a toothbrush, a little bigger,
with quite fine and stiff nylon bristles. It was fantastic for
cleaning out fine threads. Where can I get another ?

Sounds like a brush my old man had as well, he was an electrical

engineer and used his for cleaning off armatures and relay contacts
when washing them down with contact cleaner or whatever.
You should be able to get one at a better stocked hardware store or an
industrial hardware shop. Think I've seen them at industrial
electrical supply shops as well.
>Alex