Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[James Sweet]

No doubt....

On a different subject; the last time I had occasion to check the Repair
FAQ
regarding a lawnmower issue, (I had a shear key problem which was easily
fixed with the info contained there. Thanks, Sam) I noticed a very
interesting dialogue concerning the relative merits of Briggs and Tecumseh
small engines.

Being how it's much too late (probably) to get my $.02 in the FAQ, I
thought
I'd post my opinion here:

IME, Briggs motors are much more 'finicky' for starting and maintenance,
but
they last longer and use much less gas and oil.

The Tecumsehs (I have two of those, and one Briggs & Stratton) start much
easier, although that's probably due to the priming bulb which my Briggs
does not have. They start using oil right out of the box, however. I
have
to check and add oil on almost every use. My Eager1 uses almost twice as
much fuel to mow the same yard as my older Briggs of the same horsepower
and
cut width. I almost never have to add oil to the Briggs in an entire
season.

Given the greater oil and gas consumption, I assume that the Tecumsehs are
emitting considerably more pollutants per hour of use. The consumables
only
add a negligible amount to my lawn-care costs every year; but multiplied
by
(however many millions) of them out there.....

Any thoughts?

jak

Well it's hard to say these days, back when I was tinkering with this stuff
a lot I was dealing with engines made mostly in the 1970's and the Briggs
motors were very noticeably better made and easier to work on. The
Tecumsehs' were nothing but a pain in the ass, carb problems, ignition
problems, a few common models would regularly throw rods. It was no shock
since they were always about 40% cheaper than a comparable B&S. Now days I
don't really know, the Tecumseh engines seem to have improved somewhat,
while the Briggs engines have gotten *very* noticeably poorer. Somebody said
they're now made in Asia so perhaps that's when the quality took a dive. BTW
the new ones do have a primer bulb, haven't tried starting one though. My
mom has an old mower with a Tecumseh and it does actually start quite easily
though I have to take apart the carb and clean out the banjo bolt on the
float bowl every year, never had to do that with an old Briggs. Unfortunatly
I never compared fuel consumption but I don't recall oil usage problems on
either.

 

[James Sweet]

"kaboom" <kaboomicus@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:cubi81l75bmk97riict891hbug3at28tjp@4ax.com...

On Mon, 16 May 2005 11:30:33 -0500,
altercate21@aol-dot-com.no-spam.invalid (b9_2mr) wrote:

You may wish to take this up with people on xbox-scene.com forum,
there are people there that have seen everything/anything that could
possibly go wrong, and may give you some helpful details. However,
judging from your description, I think you might just have to dig up
another motherboard from ebay (probably sets you back about $30).
Just note that if it doesn't come with a hard drive (or if your
current drive is locked), you'll need to scrape up another hard drive
of at least 8GB and the appropriate modchip to allow you to boot with
an unlocked hard drive (assuming the system is still unmodded).

**Perhaps it's one of those evil Thomson DVD drives that has ravaged
earlier versions of the Xbox. You can tell which drive it is by going
here:

Nah, if the DVD drive fails the box will still boot up to the dashboard from
the hard drive.

 

[James Sweet]

"nvic" <nvic@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1116279917.367298.143300@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

It's true modded PS2s will NOT play DVDs. Some may but most mod chips
prohibit playback because they remove the DVD playback software. Find a
chip that does or remove the mod.

Or just get a DVD player, the PS2 never worked very well for that right from
the start.

 

[John Knowles]

Hi, I asked in another post for information on the DC power supply. I would
like to find a schematic. I tried ESI but can't get anywhere!

John Knowles

<ato_zee@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:29CdnWHEJfxfjRTfRVnytw@pipex.net...

On 16-May-2005, "GanjaTron" <ganjatron@gmx.net> wrote:

You mean actually *severing* paths on the PCB? Isn't that rather
drastic? :^)

Usually you can unsolder one connection, vith a spring loaded
piston type heated solder sucker, or unsolder the whole
rectifier for each rail. Then replace PSU and switch on, if it stays
up, you have found the overloaded rail. Check for low
resistance across that rail, do a bit of tracing to see if you
can split the rail further. You can cut tracks, it's knackered
anyway, so you have nothing to lose, then restore them with
a soldered bridging wire. But cutting tracks is a last resort.

 

[Jumpster Jiver]

For the stereo, try buying from Crutchfield. They usually have adapters
to fit your new stereo and speakers into any vehicle.
For the coax - it all depends on where the wires run and how hard it
will be to remove the old and install the new wire.

tunereye@yahoo.com wrote:

I have a few questions about re-doing some things in my parents 1980's
Wenebego RV.....

I would like to make it satelite ready & someone said I needed to put
in a diferent grade of coax... is thee a easy way to rplace the cable
withour tearing apart the walls. There are 2 wall jacks. It has an
antenna on the roof.

How could I have it work on the antenna or the satelite? Is this a huge
project?

Also... I am replacing the old cassette/am/fm radio with a cd/mp3
reciver... do I need any special brackets... how hard would it be to
put speaker in the back & wire them to the new reciever?

Thanks in advance for any help here!

 

[NSM]

"Dick" <LeadWinger> wrote in message
news:qamh81lv66s8q4d5tg36gkic9ad04k6qpq@4ax.com...

On 4 Jan 2004 01:42:36 GMT, louie@u.washington.edu (G. Louie) wrote:

Here's the service manual.
http://63.230.9.155/braun/Srv_Man/SHAVER/

Anyone know where this site went? I have been unable to bring it up.

The wayback machine still has some of it.

http://web.archive.org

N

 

[NSM]

"GanjaTron" <ganjatron@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:1116273372.255613.217250@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

ato_...@hotmail.com wrote:

With switchmodes going into spasm lift/break one rail at a time until
it doesn't spasm/shutdown.

You mean actually *severing* paths on the PCB? Isn't that rather
drastic? :^)

Standard repair method.
--
N

 

[James Sweet]

<elect21st@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1116303154.497722.250650@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

nvic wrote:
You have a point, it would be easier. DVD players are cheap i have
one
i got for $70! I recommend mintek and sylvania.


Thank you very much for these useful replies ! After further
examination it turned out this unit won't play PS2 games also, in
addition to DVD movies. It only plays audio CD's and PS one games.
Would a mod chip cause that too ?

Not unless it was installed wrong, that would kinda defeat the purpose of a
mod chip.

Was the unit working before it was modified? Or was it working with the mod
chip?

 

[Andrew Tweddle]

427Cobraman wrote:

http://www.tek.com/Measurement/cgi-bin/framed.pl?Document=/Measurement/Products/catalog/archive/ca-2205/&FrameSet=oscilloscopes

I just picked this up and have no info on it whatsoever except for the
above link. The Scope shows it's a 20Mhz scope, the the features list
shows 40Mhz option 40. I'm guessing this might be an upgrade, but
wanted to know for sure. Granted, I don't need anything that high. If
this is an upgrade, is there a way to tell physically? Thanks,

Alex

The tek site tells you all you need to know. on the back panel will bee

a sticker with options 40 or 040. It's not an upgrade as this option was
placed in the machine at manufacture. By the way what year was it
manufactured? I couldn't find a mention in several of my 80's catalogues.

 

[Dick]

On Tue, 17 May 2005 04:52:56 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:

63.230.9.155/braun/Srv_Man/SHAVER/

The one I needed was there. Thanks so much.

Dick

 

On 17-May-2005, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:

With switchmodes going into spasm lift/break one rail at a time until
it doesn't spasm/shutdown.

You mean actually *severing* paths on the PCB? Isn't that rather
drastic? :^)

Standard repair method.

The DC power supply feeds the rest of the printer,
lift the outputs, one by one, at the socket the PSU plugs into. If it's
an overload in one of the modules, it'll stop shutting down. The
PSU shutting down may only be a symptom of trouble elsewhere.

 

[none]

On Tue, 17 May 2005 03:18:06 GMT, "James Sweet"
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

No doubt....

On a different subject; the last time I had occasion to check the Repair
FAQ
regarding a lawnmower issue, (I had a shear key problem which was easily
fixed with the info contained there. Thanks, Sam) I noticed a very
interesting dialogue concerning the relative merits of Briggs and Tecumseh
small engines.

Being how it's much too late (probably) to get my $.02 in the FAQ, I
thought
I'd post my opinion here:

IME, Briggs motors are much more 'finicky' for starting and maintenance,
but
they last longer and use much less gas and oil.

The Tecumsehs (I have two of those, and one Briggs & Stratton) start much
easier, although that's probably due to the priming bulb which my Briggs
does not have. They start using oil right out of the box, however. I
have
to check and add oil on almost every use. My Eager1 uses almost twice as
much fuel to mow the same yard as my older Briggs of the same horsepower
and
cut width. I almost never have to add oil to the Briggs in an entire
season.

Given the greater oil and gas consumption, I assume that the Tecumsehs are
emitting considerably more pollutants per hour of use. The consumables
only
add a negligible amount to my lawn-care costs every year; but multiplied
by
(however many millions) of them out there.....

Any thoughts?

jak


Well it's hard to say these days, back when I was tinkering with this stuff
a lot I was dealing with engines made mostly in the 1970's and the Briggs
motors were very noticeably better made and easier to work on. The
Tecumsehs' were nothing but a pain in the ass, carb problems, ignition
problems, a few common models would regularly throw rods. It was no shock
since they were always about 40% cheaper than a comparable B&S. Now days I
don't really know, the Tecumseh engines seem to have improved somewhat,
while the Briggs engines have gotten *very* noticeably poorer. Somebody said
they're now made in Asia so perhaps that's when the quality took a dive. BTW
the new ones do have a primer bulb, haven't tried starting one though. My
mom has an old mower with a Tecumseh and it does actually start quite easily
though I have to take apart the carb and clean out the banjo bolt on the
float bowl every year, never had to do that with an old Briggs. Unfortunatly
I never compared fuel consumption but I don't recall oil usage problems on
either.

Yes, there was a time when Briggs were better engines.
Not so anymore. B&S has gotten into the parts game. They make nearly
as much profit on parts and service as they do intial sale.
Techumseh had to rethink their whole market strategy in the late 70's
and refocused on building better quality engines that were certainly
more standardized. On virtually every Techumseh vertical shaft engine
the carbs and coils are interchangeable, unlike Briggs where every
engine requires a particular model coil or carbuerator-setup.

Odd that your eager-1(Sears) mower uses so much oil. I'd say it might
be just the particular engine as virtually none of the ones I've used
or serviced ever developed this problem during their useful life.(Cast
iron sleeves and 2 oil rings unlike the single ring in Briggs and the
cheap alloys used in both the sleeve and ring.)
The poorer, cheap design in the Briggs carbs make for a much worse
problem in regards to polution as they tend to run rich with just a
little age.(I've seen some come into my shop that are runnign so rich
that they actually wash the cylinder. This results in excessive wear
on the sleeve and rings, allowing bypass into the crankcase. Once the
oil is broken down by the gas it'll bypass the rings and the result is
a smoking engine.(great if you want to fog your yard as you cut it.)
Techuseh carbs are actually easy to operate and care for once you
learn some basics.
They're float style carbs and as such you can't just run 'em and
forget 'em. leaving gas in the carb and tank off season is the worst
thing you can do. (Most people don't realize that gasoline actually
goes bad with time and actually expect a mower that's sat unused for
six months to just crank up on the first pull.)
Run the tank dry at the last cutting of the season then loosen the
Bowl nut and drain the gas out of the float bowl.(It's easy, all it
takes is a 1/2 inch socket to loosen it.)
Then leave it dry for the winter, DON'T put any type of winterizer in
it. Worst stuff in the world. Just ensures you'll be taking it in for
a carb job as the stuff just turns to jelly and will make a real mess
of your carb and tank.
There's just no way to "preserve" gas, use it or lose it.

If you want proof as to Techumseh's quality over Briggs just look at
how Briggs has copied Techumseh design.
Techumseh has the best design in a starter recoil mechanism hands
down, Briggs finally gave up using their ball bearing starter clutch
mechanism on all their 5hp or larger engines and copied the Techumseh
design out right.(stilll not as good.)
They went to a float style carb but picked what is in my opinion one
of the worst makes, Walbro.
I tell all my customers if they insist on a Briggs just get one of the
Sprints, either a 3.5 or 4hp model and don't expect much more than 2
years of use out of it. I have some customers still using the same
Craftsmans mower with a Techumseh engine for 10 years or longer.
I gave my inlaws one of my personal Craftsmans that I purchased back
in 82 and it's still going strong, with NO major engine work at all.

 

[none]

On 16 May 2005 08:38:25 -0700, "Alex Bird"
<alex@redbeastie.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:

Steve wrote:

Sand = write off

(always)

Sorry Steve, but my crunch-free smoothly functioning camera must be the
exception...

Alex

Correct, Sand is easy to clean out of a lens.
Try getting advanced fungal growth off a lens without completely
destroying the coatings, now that's hard.

 

[Jerry G.]

If it can work for a number of days with no arcing, maybe you have a
solution that works. There is not much else you can do, if you cannot have
the original or equivalent parts.

--

Jerry G.
======


<ZZactly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1116310655.071838.208670@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I think I am coming close to being able to do anything with nothing.

This is the second time I've had this paroblem: it arcs between the two
focus pins. This socket is peculiar to their IDTVs, a bunch of the
Proscan line and a few regular CTC169s. Obviously a CRT socket
replacement was in order but there were none to be had. I was told to
do whatever it takes. This means almost unlimited resources, as long as
it's done today. We can't wait for a socket or we risk the need to
refund.

When I need to be a hillbilly I try to be the best one I can.

After disassembling the socket and removing the electrodes I cleaned
the plastic with acetone. In one of the tunnels in which the focus
electrodes reside there is still a brown spot. As Alex Harvey said "I
flipped open a packet of cigarettes and considered the situation".

Removing all the material between the pins and replacing it would do
it, but there is no facility for that, nor is there time for anything
to dry overnight.

I always look for the safest, most effective, reliable and REVERSIBLE
modification possible.

I removed the pingrabbers from the socket assy, and had a good hard
look at them. I then decided to straighten the bend they put in it, put
in my own to retract the grabber about 3 mm from where it used to be in
relation to the plane of the socket. I then found some 16 ga. wire with
thicker insulation (like the thicker yoke wires). I took just about 3mm
of insulation from that and put it on the CRT pin.

I felt the insulation engage the body of the socket when I reinstalled
it. It kinda dropped when I got it really aligned. I checked and there
was no gap between the pin protector and the socket. The "drop" was
about the same as the length of the insulation.

Set fired up and did not arc. I effectively moved the arcing points 3
mm away from each other.

In your opinion, did I come up with a solution or did I make a mess
waiting to happen ?

Thanks in advance.

JURB

 

[none]

On 16 May 2005 03:57:41 -0700, "Alex Bird"
<alex@redbeastie.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:

Hi,

I don't normally repair any sort of camera, but this is my own, and my
gosh it's depreciated since I bought it, so I thought it worth the
risk.

Canon Powershot A40

The camera isn't actually dead, failing, etc. A grain or two of sand
have got into the retracting/zoom lens assembly and it makes a clicking
sound in operation.
Ironically I keep a filter adapter and UV filter on it all the time to
prevent this sort of thing, but I took it off yesterday to show someone
what it was, whilst at a fantastic beach party - whoops.

I have some lovely cleaners/brushes/lubricants for plastic gears, so
I'm very tempted to disassemble the lens and totally clean it.
However, now I'm in the camera I'm not so sure, perhaps a blast of
compressed air ? I'm out of air, but wouldn't it push the sand further
in ?

Has anyone experience of these Canon lens assemblies ? Probably
identical to the A30 too.

Thanks in advance,

Alex

Is the sand in the optics or just the zoom/ focus ring assembly?
It' just requires a very careful, methodical disassembly and cleaning.
The safest cleaning solvent to use would be denatured alchohol as most
of the gears will be nylon plastic.(You'll most liekly need to strip
off the old lube as the sand will be in it and won't come out
completely untill all the gears and surfaces are clean and dry.)
Compressed air is good as well, try and avoid using the dust-off stuff
as it has a dry propellant that leaves a residue.
You'll need a good grade of lithium grease to relube the gears and
lens barrel, a thin grade of silicone grease will work as well.
Use of a stiff nylon brush during cleaning is good as well, like a
tooth brush or perhaps acid brushes which can be gotten at your local
hardware store.(If you want to spend the bucks a local art store will
have a variety of nylon in small sizes and stiffnesses.)
Take photos or video tape the disassembly in detail to aid in
reassembly and work in a clean breeze free work space to avoid dust
contamination.

 

[none]

On 15 May 2005 06:09:24 -0700, "spongehead" <hgoodale_msp@msn.com>
wrote:

I took the carb off and found that rubber O-ring was broken. I assume
that was the culpret. I hosed down the carb with wd-40 and she started
up with no idle problem. However now the idle is too low. I probably
stretched the spring or something but atleast it mows the lawn! Thanks
for all the help!

You can get a new o-ring at you local harware store for about 50
cents.
It's usually size 42 on the chart in the o-ring boxes.
I can look it up for you if you can't get a match.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Mark D. Zacharias wrote:

ZZactly@aol.com wrote:
I suspect the OP is having access difficulties. If I'm not mistaken
that unit has the amp built around in like a "box" and is fan cooled
through the middle. Ugh.

A shop I worked at previously actually took to replacing the whole
assembly, though I have no idea how they worked the cost of it into
the estimate. I think MCM sells those assemblies. I don't remember
how much they cost.

I've also noticed class D amps in subwoofers, and if that's what you
got this method won't work. You can tell by a pi filter at the
output. Class D amps lend themselves well to subwoofers because they
can get away with a lower chopping frequency. With their efficiency
they are singularly suited to the massive current needed to drive
some woofers. You mentioned bias, so it's not class D, consider yourself
lucky,
class D amps are a whole different animal.

JURB

This is a pretty conventional design, a KEF PSW-2150. 2 ea. 2SC 5200
and 2SA1943. I was just trying to do some troubleshooting with the
outputs removed. The board was upside down at the time or I would
have seen the smoke sooner. :-(


Mark Z.

This one just gets worse and worse. I suppose I'll just order a replacement
amp plate from KEF, cost permitting.

35 volt DC offset. Outputs NOT biased on, measure NO millivolts across the
emitter resistors, yet the outputs get hot. No HF oscillation, no AC signal,
no load, no DC bias (B-E voltage no more than 50 mV), yet they get hot.
Replaced the outputs just in case there was some leakage I had missed - no
change. I'm pretty much out of ideas, and I'm way upside down time-wise on
this one. Time to cut my losses.


Mark Z.

 

[Travis Jordan]

tunereye@yahoo.com wrote:

I would like to make it satelite ready & someone said I needed to put
in a diferent grade of coax... is thee a easy way to rplace the cable
withour tearing apart the walls. There are 2 wall jacks. It has an
antenna on the roof.

I'd leave the existing antenna and coax for use with local reception,
and add the satellite receiver and antenna with a separate cable.
Should be easier than removing the old cable and you'll get additional
functionality.

 

[NK]

Maybe it is a FDS4431 fet?

I know that HP uses FDS4435 and several others in laptop power control.

JMK

"Etantonio" <etantonio@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:467ddbce.0505170107.7b3d6173@posting.google.com...

Good Morning,
I've a Gericom Webshox laptop, it is of 2001, I changed the battery
but it is still not working, the problem seems to be that the 15 volts
coming from power supply don't reach the battery, they seems stopped
from an 8-pin dual in line IC named 4431 1503 that I don't know who is
the manufacturer, I search for it on internet but with no results.
To solve the problem I need the following information :

1) Who is the producer of this IC 4431 1503 or equivalent, it have
4431 in the first line, a little delta on the second line and
following 1503
2) where I can find the schematic of the motherboard N241S1 ver:0.1
possible for free

Many thanks for your help

Antonio D'Ottavio
etantonio@etantonio.it

 

[NSM]

<ZZactly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1116310655.071838.208670@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

In your opinion, did I come up with a solution or did I make a mess
waiting to happen ?

You do what it takes. I recall a popular stereo system which used a single
triode pentode as the output amplifier for each channel. After a few months
use the tubes increased in gain (normal) and started to oscillate at a
supersonic frequency, burning up the output transformers (abnormal). I used
to solder a tin shield around the bottom half of the tube base and replace
the transformers which always seemed to fix them for good. I also contacted
the maker and alerted them to the problem.
--
N