Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Ben Myers]

So stated by other postings in this thread... Ben Myers

On Sun, 15 May 2005 15:58:33 GMT, CJT <abujlehc@prodigy.net> wrote:

GanjaTron wrote:
Well, I've recapped the PSU... no dice. :^(

--GanjaTron

The simplest solution would probably be to go to your favorite computer
graveyard and pick up a "parts" machine (or two), then replace a board
at a time.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

ZZactly@aol.com wrote:

I suspect the OP is having access difficulties. If I'm not mistaken
that unit has the amp built around in like a "box" and is fan cooled
through the middle. Ugh.

A shop I worked at previously actually took to replacing the whole
assembly, though I have no idea how they worked the cost of it into
the estimate. I think MCM sells those assemblies. I don't remember
how much they cost.

I've also noticed class D amps in subwoofers, and if that's what you
got this method won't work. You can tell by a pi filter at the output.
Class D amps lend themselves well to subwoofers because they can get
away with a lower chopping frequency. With their efficiency they are
singularly suited to the massive current needed to drive some woofers.

You mentioned bias, so it's not class D, consider yourself lucky,
class D amps are a whole different animal.

JURB

This is a pretty conventional design, a KEF PSW-2150. 2 ea. 2SC 5200 and
2SA1943. I was just trying to do some troubleshooting with the outputs
removed. The board was upside down at the time or I would have seen the
smoke sooner. :-(


Mark Z.

 

[Mike]

In article <1115821818.489169.215590@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
GanjaTron <ganjatron@gmx.net> wrote:

Fixed! Replaced the 47uF/25V/85deg cap in the primary with a
100uF/25V/105deg. Works like a charm, only there's something squeaking
in the drive when lacing the tape... :^)

You did check for mice, didn't you?
--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[at]pootle.demon.co.uk | http://www.pootle.demon.co.uk/

 

[CJT]

Ben Myers wrote:

So stated by other postings in this thread... Ben Myers

Sorry ... guess I came in late.

On Sun, 15 May 2005 15:58:33 GMT, CJT <abujlehc@prodigy.net> wrote:


GanjaTron wrote:

Well, I've recapped the PSU... no dice. :^(

--GanjaTron


The simplest solution would probably be to go to your favorite computer
graveyard and pick up a "parts" machine (or two), then replace a board
at a time.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1116188991.055792.19100@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
cnctut <cnctutwiler@wmconnect.com> wrote:

Thanks--I'm such a novice at this Google search thing--and I'm always
impressed with what folks get find in a matter of seconds. If someone
does makes a remote controlled SPDT switch--that would save me some
significant installation time.

It's rather easier to find a relay with a DC rating. Then the world's your
oyster in the switch to operate it. But of course it will draw current
when made - perhaps not ideal when running off batteries.

--
*Real women don't have hot flashes, they have power surges.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Ben Myers]

Nothing wrong with reinforcing what others have already stated. It's not like
the majority rules, but... Ben Myers

On Sun, 15 May 2005 21:53:59 GMT, CJT <abujlehc@prodigy.net> wrote:

Ben Myers wrote:
So stated by other postings in this thread... Ben Myers

Sorry ... guess I came in late.


On Sun, 15 May 2005 15:58:33 GMT, CJT <abujlehc@prodigy.net> wrote:


GanjaTron wrote:

Well, I've recapped the PSU... no dice. :^(

--GanjaTron


The simplest solution would probably be to go to your favorite computer
graveyard and pick up a "parts" machine (or two), then replace a board
at a time.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.




--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

 

[Jřrgen Christensen]

Hi Philippe.

As B & O is made in Denmark, I would recommend you to post your problem in
the danish group:
dk.teknik.tv+video
There are some guys who are very experienced with B & O and they might be
interested in your vintage problem.
Best of luck, Jřrgen.

--

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 15 May 2005 06:15:10 -0700, "alitonto" <alitonto@hotmail.com> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

I have Digitor 12 volt TV Model G7200 year 1993 from Dick Smith
Electronics for which the H.D.Transformer is no longer available from
spare parts. (Checked with DSE).
I am thinking what specs to look for if I was to find a spare part in
my parts box.
Would this be possible at all?
It drives the HOT which is a BU407 and the chip on the board is an
LA7680 where pin 27 supplies the signal.
Any expertize here will be welcome.
Thks
A.T.

Try adapting a transformer from a current model 12V TV. I would
imagine they would be mechanically different but electrically similar
(same B+, same frequency, similar output).


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Travis Jordan]

chris wrote:

My TV recently started to go bright and blurry so I called in a repair
man and he pressed a few buttons on my remote to force the TV to do a
hard reset, charged me $75 and left. He would not tell me how to do
the hard reset myself. After about a month my TV has started to show
the same symptoms again. I was hoping someone could tell me how to do
the hard reset using the remote myself.

Dagnabbit, those pesky search engines must be down again.

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/sonyadj.html

 

[Steve]

"Alex Bird" <alex@redbeastie.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in
news:1116241061.857899.113520@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

Hi,

I don't normally repair any sort of camera, but this is my own, and my
gosh it's depreciated since I bought it, so I thought it worth the
risk.

Canon Powershot A40

The camera isn't actually dead, failing, etc. A grain or two of sand
have got into the retracting/zoom lens assembly and it makes a clicking
sound in operation.
Ironically I keep a filter adapter and UV filter on it all the time to
prevent this sort of thing, but I took it off yesterday to show someone
what it was, whilst at a fantastic beach party - whoops.

I have some lovely cleaners/brushes/lubricants for plastic gears, so
I'm very tempted to disassemble the lens and totally clean it.
However, now I'm in the camera I'm not so sure, perhaps a blast of
compressed air ? I'm out of air, but wouldn't it push the sand further
in ?

Has anyone experience of these Canon lens assemblies ? Probably
identical to the A30 too.

Thanks in advance,

Alex

Sand = write off

(always)

 

[JW]

On 15 May 2005 14:35:36 -0700 electricitym@yahoo.com wrote in Message id:
<1116192936.342728.128380@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>:

jurb:
the only control for the dvm readout and all the other readouts is the
"readout intensity" centered directly below the crt.
electricitym

And the two buttons over REF or DLY POS for selecting voltage or time.

 

[Jřrgen Christensen]

Hi Philippe.

Glad you changed back to your native english. Your translation machine
really is funny.
Anyway you are already connected to two of the experts on B&O, namely Otto
J. and Ole Geisler.
Hope they will solve your problems.
Best regards, Jřrgen.

--
Med venlig hilsen, Jřrgen
"Jřrgen Christensen" <SLET@DETjchrist@vip.cybercity.dk> skrev i en
meddelelse news:4288347e$0$78282$157c6196@dreader1.cybercity.dk...

Hi Philippe.

As B & O is made in Denmark, I would recommend you to post your problem in
the danish group:
dk.teknik.tv+video
There are some guys who are very experienced with B & O and they might be
interested in your vintage problem.
Best of luck, Jřrgen.

--

 

[b9_2mr]

You may wish to take this up with people on xbox-scene.com forum,
there are people there that have seen everything/anything that could
possibly go wrong, and may give you some helpful details. However,
judging from your description, I think you might just have to dig up
another motherboard from ebay (probably sets you back about $30).
Just note that if it doesn't come with a hard drive (or if your
current drive is locked), you'll need to scrape up another hard drive
of at least 8GB and the appropriate modchip to allow you to boot with
an unlocked hard drive (assuming the system is still unmodded).

 

[Razza]

cockroach Wrote:

I need details on how to set up the remote.
It was in with some gear from my daughter who passed away last year.

Regards
I have the manual as a PDF you can me email at rattoncain@hotmail.com

put the subject as URC so I know you are not junk mail and I will send
it to you
sincerely
Razza


--
Razza

 

[Dick]

On 4 Jan 2004 01:42:36 GMT, louie@u.washington.edu (G. Louie) wrote:

Here's the service manual.
http://63.230.9.155/braun/Srv_Man/SHAVER/

Anyone know where this site went? I have been unable to bring it up.

Dick

 

[Ken Weitzel]

spudnuty wrote:

Alex,
I bought one camera on eBay and after taking it apart and repairing it
I asked the guy that I bought it from if he lived near the ocean since
a lot of the parts had this characteristic oxide on them. He said not
really but the Pacific was about 7 blocks down the street!
Yah it's easy to forget one of those little plug in flex cables. It is
funny that the camera operated normally, you'd expect it to at least
generate a "focus error".
I use a lot of toothpicks, tweezers and very fine needle nose pliers
working on these things.
Another tip is to make copious notes when you're going in and keep the
screws in order using an ice cube tray. Nice and white and you can mark
on it with fine markers the location of the screws you take out.
Richard

Hi...

Making notes is good; but don't forget our hobby

Take lots and lots of pictures as you disassemble it, they'll
be worth their weight in gold as you re-assemble.

Take care.

Ken

 

On 16-May-2005, "GanjaTron" <ganjatron@gmx.net> wrote:

You mean actually *severing* paths on the PCB? Isn't that rather
drastic? :^)

Usually you can unsolder one connection, vith a spring loaded
piston type heated solder sucker, or unsolder the whole
rectifier for each rail. Then replace PSU and switch on, if it stays
up, you have found the overloaded rail. Check for low
resistance across that rail, do a bit of tracing to see if you
can split the rail further. You can cut tracks, it's knackered
anyway, so you have nothing to lose, then restore them with
a soldered bridging wire. But cutting tracks is a last resort.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 16 May 2005 05:20:33 -0700, "alitonto" <alitonto@hotmail.com> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

Hello Frank,
That's the direction I was thinking but wasn't sure if anything in
particular needed to be observed. For example the schematics I obtained
from DSE, thnks for your previous reply, indicate that the volts to the
base of the HOT needs to be 0.34; therefore would I be correct in
thinking that the existing circuit board will produce that if I select
a close enough match for the driver transformer?
Cheers
A.T.

AFAICS, any 12V HDT that is designed to drive an NPN transistor should
be suitable. That's just about all of them. One caveat may be that
some HOTs have a lower hfe than others, which would mean they would
require more base current. A symptom of low drive would be a hot HOT.
Just to be safe, I'd run the set for a minute or so and then check the
HOT temperature.

Franc Zabkar wrote:
On 15 May 2005 06:15:10 -0700, "alitonto" <alitonto@hotmail.com> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

I have Digitor 12 volt TV Model G7200 year 1993 from Dick Smith
Electronics for which the H.D.Transformer is no longer available
from
spare parts. (Checked with DSE).
I am thinking what specs to look for if I was to find a spare part
in
my parts box.
Would this be possible at all?
It drives the HOT which is a BU407 and the chip on the board is an
LA7680 where pin 27 supplies the signal.
Any expertize here will be welcome.
Thks
A.T.

Try adapting a transformer from a current model 12V TV. I would
imagine they would be mechanically different but electrically similar
(same B+, same frequency, similar output).


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[jakdedert]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:nkDhe.6615$Y12.4627@trnddc09...

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wwtq4qbl8.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...
"cnctut" <cnctutwiler@wmconnect.com> writes:

spongehead--

A carb swap may solve your problem if off a similair 3.5 engine--too
much work though. You mentioned your throttle adjustment was
frozen--you might try advancing the control wire (pliers might help)
toward a faster run postion to get away from slow idle.

If this doesn't work--carb cleaner would be my next attempt at solving
the problem. Squirt it every where (in and around the carb.)

Lastly, as your time and parts cost creep higher and higher--don't
forget a new 3.5HP mower is only $99. ;-))

What fun is that? ;-)


Not to mention the new ones are such crap, I mean come on, plastic carbs??
The old stuff was made so much better.

No doubt....

On a different subject; the last time I had occasion to check the Repair FAQ
regarding a lawnmower issue, (I had a shear key problem which was easily
fixed with the info contained there. Thanks, Sam) I noticed a very
interesting dialogue concerning the relative merits of Briggs and Tecumseh
small engines.

Being how it's much too late (probably) to get my $.02 in the FAQ, I thought
I'd post my opinion here:

IME, Briggs motors are much more 'finicky' for starting and maintenance, but
they last longer and use much less gas and oil.

The Tecumsehs (I have two of those, and one Briggs & Stratton) start much
easier, although that's probably due to the priming bulb which my Briggs
does not have. They start using oil right out of the box, however. I have
to check and add oil on almost every use. My Eager1 uses almost twice as
much fuel to mow the same yard as my older Briggs of the same horsepower and
cut width. I almost never have to add oil to the Briggs in an entire
season.

Given the greater oil and gas consumption, I assume that the Tecumsehs are
emitting considerably more pollutants per hour of use. The consumables only
add a negligible amount to my lawn-care costs every year; but multiplied by
(however many millions) of them out there.....

Any thoughts?

jak

>

 

[kaboom]

On Mon, 16 May 2005 11:30:33 -0500,
altercate21@aol-dot-com.no-spam.invalid (b9_2mr) wrote:

You may wish to take this up with people on xbox-scene.com forum,
there are people there that have seen everything/anything that could
possibly go wrong, and may give you some helpful details. However,
judging from your description, I think you might just have to dig up
another motherboard from ebay (probably sets you back about $30).
Just note that if it doesn't come with a hard drive (or if your
current drive is locked), you'll need to scrape up another hard drive
of at least 8GB and the appropriate modchip to allow you to boot with
an unlocked hard drive (assuming the system is still unmodded).

**Perhaps it's one of those evil Thomson DVD drives that has ravaged
earlier versions of the Xbox. You can tell which drive it is by going
here:

http://www.llamma.com/xbox/Repairs/xbox_dvd_version_comparison.htm

Apparently, you can now buy drives that you can just trade with the
defunct one with no modding or flashing. I happen to own one of the
Thomson-plagued Xboxes, it makes for a pretty doorstop

kaboomie