Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[RichA]

On 14 May 2005 15:12:07 -0700, RonaldGrossi3861@yahoo.com wrote:

http://www.gotquestions.org/sinners-prayer.html << I saw this site on a
search directory. Great Resource!

responses on this MAIL to:

president@gotquestions.org

 

[NSM]

"Rick" <nospam@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:xAthe.724$uR4.658@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...

I'm not sure why RS even bothers any more. Most of their
stores are the size of shoeboxes and 99% of the time don't
have what you're looking for.

"You've got questions - we've got idiots"!
--
N

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"danube" <danube@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1115774517.234286.206270@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hello all,

I have a pair of original Operator's Handbooks for the Lear Siegler
ADM-3Ainteractive display terminal.
One of the manuals is copyright 1975, is 5-1/2"x8-1/2" high, 40
pages or so. The other is copyright 1979, is 8-1/2"x11" high and is
also about 40 pages long. Both seem to cover about the same material,
which includes spec's, some basic use information, settings of
internal
and external dip switches, and info on the interfaces on the rear of
the ADM-3A (RS-232 vs. 20 mA current loop).
Manuals are in good condition, but are of no use to me since I got
rid of my ADM years ago (there's only so much room in the basement for
nostalgia!).

$10 (by check, M.O. or Paypal) gets both of these shipped book
rate
to anyplace in the Continental U.S. Please contact me by e-mail at
danube@adelphia.net - I don't check groups frequently.

Thanks.

Danube

used to have hundreds of them. Now I'm down to about one of each for
both the ADM-1 and ADM-3 and that includes the service manuals. I
supported hundreds of them at work.

I think we dumped the last ADM-3 late last year. It was being kept as a
spare, but the others had been long gone.

 

[borgunit]

This does not say, but it is extra info..

http://www.tucker.com/images/images_spec/00002355.pdf

 

[James Sweet]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wwtq4qbl8.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...

"cnctut" <cnctutwiler@wmconnect.com> writes:

spongehead--

A carb swap may solve your problem if off a similair 3.5 engine--too
much work though. You mentioned your throttle adjustment was
frozen--you might try advancing the control wire (pliers might help)
toward a faster run postion to get away from slow idle.

If this doesn't work--carb cleaner would be my next attempt at solving
the problem. Squirt it every where (in and around the carb.)

Lastly, as your time and parts cost creep higher and higher--don't
forget a new 3.5HP mower is only $99. ;-))

What fun is that? ;-)

Not to mention the new ones are such crap, I mean come on, plastic carbs??
The old stuff was made so much better.

 

[James Sweet]

"kip" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:newscache$fwndgi$cml$1@newsfeed.niagara.com...

Yes But its just easier to put a New one in
cause the chances of him ruining the valve is pretty good.
We are not talking big coin here ..
Just done my Lawnboy ..
cheers
kip

And the chances are just as great of ruining the new one, just don't crank
it down tight.

 

[Rheilly Phoull]

One day Mel got dressed and committed to text

Hi,
I have a Halfords "auxiliary battery and fridge supply" wired
relay(No. 473553)that I am wanting to fit to my car / caravan.
I bought it several years ago but have lost the fitting instructions.

The relay has the numbers 1 to 6 along the top of the case but only 5
wires coming out at the bottom:

Starting under the number 1 they are:

Thin purple, medium length
Thick red, long length
Thick green, short length, with 15A inline fuse
Thin black, short length
Thick green, long length

If anyone has an idiot's guide to installing this unit I would be
very thankful for a copy.

Regards

Mel Sharpe

From that info I would guess that the coil wires are the purple and black,
the supply to the 'center' of the changeover contacts will be the green.
Start off by connecting the black and purple wires to 12v and listen for a
'click'. If that goes well then connect the green to the plus on the battery
and see which of the other wires is energised when the relay is 'on'. You
could verify the coil wires with an ohmeter (measure the resistance across
the black and purple), could be anything from a few hundred ohms to a few
thousand ohms. Similarly the main contacts.

--
Regards ..... Rheilly Phoull

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1116102933.363190.163540@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
cnctut <cnctutwiler@wmconnect.com> wrote:

1. It would be a 3-way switch setup--I have two SPDT switches currently
and would like to add a third.
2. Radio Shack was the first place I tried--the young'ns working there
aren't like days of old--they weren't familiar with the term DPDT--and
had none in stock in the switch area
3. Visited local RV dealer--best they could do was to offer two switchs
to gang together
4. Attempting to move the water pump switch to the kitchen where it
should have been in the first place.

What you appear to need is the same as a domestic lighting intermediate
switch - ie if you need to add a third switch to a two way switched
circuit. These are DPDT types, but with internal strapping and only four
accessible terminals. In the UK, they're often available in 20 amp AC, so
in the US where currents must be greater they might well be ok at 8 amp DC.

Most of the easily available DPDT rockers from UK component suppliers seem
only to give an AC rating.

--
*Time is fun when you're having flies... Kermit

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1116141957.379792.230790@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
Mel <sharpemel@aol.com> wrote:

Thin purple, medium length
Thick red, long length
Thick green, short length, with 15A inline fuse
Thin black, short length
Thick green, long length

If anyone has an idiot's guide to installing this unit I would be
very thankful for a copy.

It's a relay with SPDT contacts, at a guess.

The two thin wires will be the relay coil. I'd guess the green with the
fuse will be common, but to be certain you'll need some form of continuity
tester like an ohm meter and check which two contacts are made with the
coil off and energised.

How is it meant to work? Does it simply run the fridge off the car battery
with the engine running, and revert automatically to the caravan battery
when it isn't?

Sorry not to know, but I'm not a caravan person. ;-)

If so, I'd guess the green with fuse goes to the fridge, thick red to car
battery, and thick green to caravan one. But that's only the way I'd make
the colours - to be certain you'll need to test first.

The thin black to ground, and the thin purple to an ignition controlled
supply.

--
*How much deeper would the oceans be without sponges? *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1116141957.379792.230790@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
Mel <sharpemel@aol.com> wrote:

I have a Halfords "auxiliary battery and fridge supply" wired relay(No.
473553)that I am wanting to fit to my car / caravan.
I bought it several years ago but have lost the fitting instructions.

<uk.rec.cars.maintenance> might be a better bet.

--
*When a clock is hungry it goes back four seconds.*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

ZZactly@aol.com wrote:

I tried JURB's technique yesterday and 8 resistors burned up. Use
caution

The burnt resistors should point you to the root cause of the failure.
With no load and no outputs there is no reason for anything to smoke
if the circuit works properly. Had the outputs been present they would
probably short first and blow the fuse before anything else could
happen.

Sorry about the eight resistors, but they should point you to a
component which might test good on an ohmmeter but gets leaky or
shorts at actual operating voltage.

Remember DO NOT connect speakers or a dummy load when you do this, it
WILL blow the drivers.

JURB

This one is a subwoofer amp, and probably had a bit of a lightning surge.
Some op-amps were bad, but the amp part seemed OK. Replaced the op-amps, but
the amp was railing out. Looked closer at the amp circuit itself - an MPSA06
transistor was bad. Replaced it, the offset was cut in half, but the bias
was hot. Since disassembly was major just for access, I thought I'd try your
method. Didn't work in this case. Going to order a service manual and get a
better look at the big picture.

Mark Z.

 

[Robert Bullock]

Well if you're getting blue backgrounds then the blue drive transistor must
be working, I'd try a clean and balance and then a rejuve if that doesn't
work.

"Keith Jewell" <implode@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1116014559.441821.234160@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

See, I was wondering that - but contrast isn't a problem. In fact, I
have to set insane settings on the drives and cutoffs to get a blue
background raster, and apart from some mild burn, the tube is bright
and sharp with generally good convergence. I'm really thinking
electronics here. I suppose I won't know until I switch the colors,
really should have thought of that first.

-Keith

 

[Otaku]

I've come across those symptoms on 2 occasions : First was modded,
turned out to be a crappy d0 solder. The second was unmodded, and it
turned out the owner had somehow contrived to wipe the flash.
HTH

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1116165232.617425.252260@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
cnctut <cnctutwiler@wmconnect.com> wrote:

Thanks Dave--I was wondering how interchangeable 120V and 12V switches
are--if it's only an I^2R thing, then I think I'm OK.

Basically, I dunno. I've not found a direct correlation between types
which give both specs.

--
*If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[N Cook]

<vangard@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:1116166075.462586.214540@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

I once worked on a problem on a large mainframe computer core memory
caused by one pin on a printed circuit card not having any solder on
it.

This was a sense amplifier card about 4 inches square that was flow
soldered during manufacture.
I had watched them being made in the plant. The cards were pulled
across the top of a pot of molten solder by conveyer belts on each
side. If the defect had been caused by a bubble the bubble would have
had to remain with the pin all the way across the pot. I doubt that.

The trouble was intermittent as the module pin was barely touching the
side of the plated through hole. It started failing about six months
after the system was installed. This occurred after a thunder storm
knocked out the computer room air conditioning and the room reached 90
degrees F. before the customer finally shut the system down.

I always wondered how that defect occurred. It was in the middle of
the card.

Van

Was it a one off fault with that one board or a batch fault ?

 

[CJT]

GanjaTron wrote:

Well, I've recapped the PSU... no dice. :^(

--GanjaTron

The simplest solution would probably be to go to your favorite computer

graveyard and pick up a "parts" machine (or two), then replace a board
at a time.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

 

[NSM]

"cnctut" <cnctutwiler@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:1116165232.617425.252260@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Dave--

Thanks Dave--I was wondering how interchangeable 120V and 12V switches
are--if it's only an I^2R thing, then I think I'm OK.

Generally they are not. A search of some RV support sites found various
remote controlled switches which might work better for you.
--
N

 

[NSM]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:0nDhe.6622$Y12.5595@trnddc09...

I have a 1500W inverter I've been trying to sell for $75 for a while now
so
they're obviously not hard or expensive to acquire. It runs a microwave
just
fine, transformer buzzes a bit louder but how often does one get run for
more than a few minutes?

And it's not impossible to smooth the output either.
--
N

 

[Rifleman]

Hi!

It could be hard to find a replacement for your transformer since the tv set
is fairly old.
If you like to find a replacement just by looking at which hot and horzontal
driver chip you got you are on the wrong way.
Best thing you can do is to check at any local tv service and ask for an
replacement, if there isn't you will most probably not find one. By the way,
are you sure that you got an faulty ht-transformer?
Sorry but not much I can come up with.

Good luck A.T

Bjorn


"alitonto" <alitonto@hotmail.com> skrev i meddelandet
news:1116162910.629050.136130@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I have Digitor 12 volt TV Model G7200 year 1993 from Dick Smith
Electronics for which the H.D.Transformer is no longer available from
spare parts. (Checked with DSE).
I am thinking what specs to look for if I was to find a spare part in
my parts box.
Would this be possible at all?
It drives the HOT which is a BU407 and the chip on the board is an
LA7680 where pin 27 supplies the signal.
Any expertize here will be welcome.
Thks
A.T.

 

[James Sweet]

"alitonto" <alitonto@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1116162910.629050.136130@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I have Digitor 12 volt TV Model G7200 year 1993 from Dick Smith
Electronics for which the H.D.Transformer is no longer available from
spare parts. (Checked with DSE).
I am thinking what specs to look for if I was to find a spare part in
my parts box.
Would this be possible at all?
It drives the HOT which is a BU407 and the chip on the board is an
LA7680 where pin 27 supplies the signal.
Any expertize here will be welcome.
Thks
A.T.

Your best bet would probably be to wind one yourself on a core from a
scrapped SMPS transformer. Heck you could dismantle the original and rewind
it if you wanted, there's not very many turns on them, but you need to be
positive it's defective first! They can be difficult to take apart, you have
to soak them in an appropriate thinner/stripper to dissolve the glue first.