Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[JANA]

The have to be compatible for their designed match, There is the voltage, if
the motor is DC or AC driven, and the position referencing has to be
compatible.

If you can find out the manufacture name on the rotor, then you can maybe
buy the controller for it.

Why not contact the previous owner of the house, to ask him for the rotor
controller? If he has it, offer to pay the shipping charges.

The other alternative is to install a new rotor system. This is probably the
best alternative, because the one that is up there, is most likely very old.
Also, while you are up there, it pays to put in a new antenna, since these
corrode and degrade over time.

--

JANA
_____


<Fedthecat@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1113876072.613690.263080@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
Just bought a house. It has a tv tower with a rotor up there. I don't
wanna climb up to it so I wonder if there a way to hook up with out
knowing what I have.

The rotor(brand unknown) has a cable coming down from it which has 4
wires. One wire has NO continuity between the others. The other 3 wires
all have continuity between each other.

My Radio Shack controller has terminals for 3 wires.

I know this probably sounds like a stupid question, but is there a way
to know what wires go to what, and how (or if) they can be hooked up to
my controller.

The only equipment I have for testing is a multimeter.

 

[Eric]

why not just get a LM555 timer IC and generate a 10KHz pulse for your
project, that output signal should not disappear.



<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113855952.132788.138740@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I'm trying to help my son with his electronics lab work for school. The
project is to set up an exclusive or gate, an SN or DM 7486 and apply a
1.0KHZ square wave at a TTL level, (which I'm assuming is simply
5.0Vpp) to one input while alternating an either high or low level to
the other input. We are to observe the output of the gate on the scope
and then draw up a waveform display depicting the output corresponding
to the different inputs applied.
I'm using an old Systron Donner Datapulse 101 pulse generator which has
two outputs available: a positive and a negative. They are marked
"output into 50 ohms" I set up a 5.0Vpp 1.0ms positive going pulse with
a 50% duty cycle as measured on the scope and then attempted to apply
it to the input of the gate. As soon as I did this though the pulse
disappeared as though the gate's input was loading it down. I next
placed a 50 ohm termination on the output and tried it again. I noted
that the output (before I connecteed it to the gate had decreased
slightly due to the additional loading the 50 ohms provided, so I
boosted it back up to the 5.0V level and observed that the pulse once
again disappeared a soon as I connected it to the gate input. I am
aware that some generators have a "TTL" output. I suppose that I should
know this but its been a long time since I've played around with any
TTL stuff so I have to ask:
a. Is my 5.0V pp signal level correct?
b. Would a generator having a "TTL" output provide a higher current
drive signal into the gate? And is this what is needed?
c. Is this why my generator is being loaded (I suspect) down?
d. Can I do anything about this short of trying to find another
generator?
(Which would be difficult, if in fact it appears that this is the
problem).
The project is due on Thursday so any assistance anyone may be able to
offer would be most sincerely appreciated.
Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics

 

[Charles Schuler]

Toshiba SDK-600 problem was shorted electrolytic bypasses on the - supply to
the audio op-amp. I have no idea if this has any bearing on your problem
but thought that I'd mention it. I did post about it on this forum, a while
back.

 

[Samantha]

"b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113948364.141859.41900@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Samantha wrote:
"b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113868315.703858.100210@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
Camcorder: Sony CCD TRV67

I take it the machine hasn't been exposed to damp or humidity? has
it
received a knock at all?
-Ben

No knocks or drops. It's been well stored and handled. Never left in
the car
and that sort of thing. It actually hasn't been used much at all.
Exposure
to humidity would be only the normal humidity of the the Southeast.

However, I did take one trip to Maine with it where I ventured on a
whale
watching trip. I kept it protected from direct contact with splashes
and
such, but there's was no way to completely isolate it from mist. I'm
not
sure if that may have caused a problem, but it can't be ruled out.

What are you thinking?

Samantha

I was thinking some moisture may have got into it and led to corroded
contacts somewhere..... Could also be hairline cracks on a pcb. As I 'm
not familiar with this machine I wouldn't want to speculate further.
Take it to a shop /tech for a proper estimate. For all we know it could
be something just needs resoldering. One thing's for certain: without a
proper inspection, all this is just hot air!

As regards charging switching problem: have you tried connecting
the battery directly to the charger? is that possible with this model?

Ben

I'll have it looked at. Any advice on finding a trustworthy shop? I'm in the
Memphis area.

Thanks for all your help.

Samantha

 

[CRaSH]

Lurch wrote:
God knows all things,and knows what you`re thinking right

now.

Big deal - so does Santa Claus...............

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

Why would you replace the board? Why not just fix it?

Leonard

"rope" <jo-rope@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1113918479.295050.65380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

enyone have a complete convergance board for this set? It is a KP-46S55
sony pro-jo?

 

[JANA]

This is the norm with these remotes. I tell clients to use a universal
remote for everyday use, where the in depth commands are not required. For
normal use, there are only about 6 to 10 basic commands being used. This
way, there is less ware on the original remote.

It may be convenient to have a universal remote that can control a number of
items, and thus, one remote can be used for all the basic functions.

--

JANA
_____


<grabs@inwind.it> wrote in message
news:1113982190.658019.157540@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
Thanks, Jana, I have ordered it, but they will deliver it in one-two
weeks. In the meantime I'm without TV.
Oh, well, never trust universal remote, I learned my lesson!

Silvia



JANA wrote:

There is only one answer. You NEED the original remote!

--

JANA
_____


grabs@inwind.it> wrote in message
news:1113907711.448267.232000@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
Can someone please help?

I have purchased a universal remote control, as the original one got
lost, and accidentally discovered "hidden service menu" so I tried to
perform the auto-installation.

The problem is that on the blue screen that showed up, there are
language options to select, and it says: "Red button to select, Blue
button to store" but when I press either blue or red button, nothing
happens.

I have tried all the codes for the remote control programming, but
with
neither of them, blue/red/green/yellow buttons worked (they are for
color/brightness).

How can I exit from this auto-installation screen??? When I switch
off
the tv and then switch in on it goes automatically to the Blue
autoinstallation screen. The remote control doesn't have the
instruction manual and the manufactureur ignore my question. The
remote
control is HQ Nedis RC Universal 29.

Thank you very much!

Silvia

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Ron(UK) wrote:

maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl wrote:
Bob Fisk <bob@bfisk.demon.co.uk> wrote:

Some quality distributors here in the UK have been affected by fake
semis as I had the unfortunate luck to buy some, and they weren't
what I'd call dirt cheap either.
In my case though an Email to the company was all it needed for
them to re-supply me with a different brand which were bona fide.


With my distributor, I can make my own choice. When they stock
fakes, it is clearly indicated in the part-number. A fake or
off-brand 30 cent BU2520AX is good enough to substitute for a 1 euro
original BU2508AX... I would never try to use it in place of a real
BU2520, though. ---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

I think he means fake as in that they are not the device indicated on
the package. often a cheap bipolar transistor of a few pennies,
illegally masquarading as a very expensive chopper transistor and not
suitable in the slightest for the intended purpose. It,s becoming more
and more of a problem with TV PSU transistors and dedicated i.c`s.


Ron(UK)
Got burned again on counterfeits. A difficult repair on a Pioneer SX-3900

made worse by flaming out the first time the customer played it loud. My
supplier, whom I won't name here because they've always treated me very
well, is taking them all back, even the shorted ones and the ones I busted
open to prove they were fake.

Also had to recall another repair, that of a $2500 Marantz SR-9200 on which
I had rebuilt 2 amp channels. These fakes were even worse than the others.
SO grateful I got that one back before it blew! Only had to mech out the
outputs themselves, not a ton of other parts, and no extra troubleshooting.

Going to have to buy power semi's from B & D or the manufacturers only from
now on.

Mark Z.

 

[Electric dabbler]

"Andrew McCall" <andrew.mccall@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1114012892.717378.154690@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Hi Folks,

I plugged my Japanese Sega Saturn into what I though was a step down
convertor in to a UK power socket, only to be horribly shocked when I
turned the thing on

I have opened the case, and I can see a few components on the PSU that
are damaged. These consist of:

1) A little green disc with legs, o5 220NA 53 is written on it, labeled
VR1 on the board. This has cracked open.

2) A resistor with red, purple, yellow red colours on it, labeled R63
on the board. This may not be damaged, it might just be scorching from
the little disc.

3) A fuse thats soldered onto the board, I can't really read the
markings as I cant rotate the fuse, its a glass one and what I can see
is V 1.6 - I presume this will be AC125V 1.6A which, is what the PSU
expects to be plugged into.

Sorry for my non-technical working, but its been years since I did any
electronics!

So - here are my questions!

Can anyone confirm what the parts are?

Does anyone think that anything else will be broken?

Can anyone in the UK supply me with the parts to fix this, or can
anyone reading this in the UK fix this for me?

I have money/PayPal funds waiting.

Thanks for the help in advance!

Andrew McCall

Hi Andrew,

I have never worked on a Sega Saturn, but have seen other things that have
been blown up in a similar way. Sometimes very little is blown other times
lots!

If you are lucky the green disc is connected across the mains supply, used
to prevent mains surges from damaging the unit - in a similar way to the
'surge protector' mains sockets. These surges normally last microseconds
during which time it absorbs the excess energy, something it can't do with a
permanent 240V supply connected to it so quite rightly it explodes! Because
this device is used to prevent surges it is non-essential therefore can be
removed (start flame war) , and if luck is very much on your side the unit
will work with just a new 1.6A fuse and VR1 removed from the circuit board..
The resistor is probably OK, its value sounds like 470K from your
description, use a cotton bud lightly moistened with mehtalated sprits to
clean it - if it looks perfect underneath the black soot it probably is OK.

The other possibility for the green disc is that it is used to limit the
switch on surge of the unit, if it does this job and has failed then there
will be other devices faulty but probably nothing visible.

The fuse should be easily obtainable from any stockist of electronic
components (Maplin) look at the old one, usually it will be marked something
like 1.6AT or 1.6T this denotes anti surge (which is normal for this kind of
fuse) and is what you should be asking for. Don't worry about the voltage
rating, this is the maximum voltage that the fuse can safely interrupt, any
available here will be 250V but that will be perfectly fine.

An even better option might be to buy a faulty but not dead (UK) Sega Saturn
from Ebay and transplant the power supply unit complete - perhaps a Google
on this subject will tell if this is likely to work.

Of course this advice is given as is, with an assumption of electrical
knowledge and regard for safety, if you are any way unsure please DONT DO
IT! I will not be held responsible for any loss of life/limbs/major body
organs/anything else....

Philip

 

[Andy Cuffe]

On 15 Apr 2005 16:44:56 -0700, El.Robot.de.Mimbre@gmail.com (Juan
Villagra) wrote:

"hemyd" <mydspamhen@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message news:<425e2456$0$5595$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au>...

Thanks for the aid, but i have an update: There is no a thermal
problem, but an motherboard thing:
The fan behavour is a synpthom, not a cause. There is that the system
falls down, and turns averything off, including the fan. Well, it
looks as the motherboard have some electronic hardware failure, that
when reached by the system, it cause a collapse. Looks like thermic,
because when cold, it stands longer, but now i think it is some kind
of broken soldering, or false contact, yhat because when it fails, and
the CDrom reader repeatedly starts spinning, a sparking noise
occasionally comes from some part of the M.B.
Any ideas, anybody?
In this moment, i'm ready to quit, and sugest replacement of the
mainboard.
Any help is welcome.
Thanks to all.

Juan Villagra.
ERdM

I think you're best bet would be to buy a motherboard on ebay. I see
a bunch up there right now for $90.
Andy Cuffe

baltimora@psu.edu <-- Use this address until 12/31/2005

acuffe@gmail.com <-- Use this address after 12/31/2005

 

[Asimov]

"Jerry G." bravely wrote to "All" (19 Apr 05 18:41:38)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: ViewSonic E71 with extrange sympthoms..."

JG> From: "Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com>
JG> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:46066

JG> Considering the age of the monitor, there are most likely worn
JG> capacitors in the power supply and scan amplifier sections just to
JG> start with. Worn decoupler caps can also cause other types of
JG> component failures.

JG> The caps can be tested with an ESR meter, and a cap meter to start
JG> with. For the cap meter test, they must be removed.

Jerry, I'm not too sure that "wear" is a documented failure mechanism
for electrolytic capacitors. Unless of course they are used as wheels
by a skateboard pro... ;-)

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... I worked hard to attach the electrodes to it.

 

[Kevinm]

Lenny,
Perhaps your wife should see an allergist. Or just have your
doctor test for allergies. I'm not really sure what they do. But this
is my best guess at the moment.
Does your wife always drive with the radio on? If there's
something screwy with the audio (especially after being in service for
who knows how long) it could be producing high frequency audio that
some people are sensitive to.
Does she wear glasses? If she wears glasses except when she
drives, or only when she drives or reads, this could be a problem as
well. Hope some of this helps.

Kevin


--
Kevinm

 

[s--p--o--n--i--x]

On Thu, 21 Apr 2005 07:14:47 +0100, Kevinm
<Kevinm.1nu3lo@news.diybanter.com> wrote:

Lenny,
Perhaps your wife should see an allergist. Or just have your
doctor test for allergies. I'm not really sure what they do. But this
is my best guess at the moment.
Does your wife always drive with the radio on? If there's
something screwy with the audio (especially after being in service for
who knows how long) it could be producing high frequency audio that
some people are sensitive to.
Does she wear glasses? If she wears glasses except when she
drives, or only when she drives or reads, this could be a problem as
well. Hope some of this helps.

Does it only occur in this particular car? What if she drives another?
Does it occur if she sits in an identical vehicle?

I'm thinking possibly it's something to do with the driving position,
maybe a nerve is getting pinched in her neck or something?

Perhaps it's some form of subconcious anxiety leading to tension
headaches? Has she (Or someone she knows) been in a road crash?

Could a fuel leak be causing fumes in the car? Maybe the car has a
pressurised fire extinguisher system that is leaking?

sponix

 

[Aidan Grey]

On 21 Apr 2005 06:16:41 -0700, free_tron@yahoo.com wrote:

I am looking for a PC PCI card that can perform the function of the HP
4194A, but does only need to have a band of 100HZ to 10MHZ.

If anyone know of any thing that might help please let me know.

Thanks

I am not familiar with the HP 4194A.

However, if you are looking for a PC oscilloscope, check the sites
www.gage-applied.com and www.ni.com. Both companies carry a
variety of cards for data acquisition.


Aidan Grey

 

[Asimov]

"captainvideo462002@yahoo.com" bravely wrote to "All" (20 Apr 05 21:53:15)
--- on the heady topic of "My wife's headaches, ( a real sad story, and a great
frustrating myster"

Did your wife drive another car and have a headache? It may be she has
a problem with her neck and turning the head or moving the eyes around
a lot causes her headache. It may be that it takes some time to get
used to driving again after a long absence from the road.

Perhaps she needs some kind of eye glasses to drive? Driving requires
the eyes to focus further away and may cause eye strain which results
in the perceived headaches. Since the problem occured with the doors
open then it may now be partly in the mind as a memory from the first
experience. The brain is really great at trying to avoid dangers which
it previously encountered.

As for the carbon monoxide problem try to borrow a detector and check
the interior. Look for any openings in the firewall left after the
police equipment was removed as any engine fumes might creep in
through there. For instance oil that leaks onto a hot manifold but
doesn't leak at idle or in park, or leaks from the blow-by valve.

BTW contrary to popular belief bleach doesn't kill mold very well.
Ammonia does a better job. Some folk spray Lysol into the A/C vents
and swear by it but I'm not convinced. Perhaps a combination of each.

A*s*i*m*o*v


ca> From: "captainvideo462002@yahoo.com" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com>
ca> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:46153

ca> We have a 1993 Caprice Classic which was formally a New Hampshire
ca> state
ca> police car. We bought it at state auction in 1998 and my wife drove it
ca> with no problems up until about 2 years ago. All of a sudden her
ca> headaches seemed to come on gradually and they seemed to occur every
ca> time she drove the car.
[,,,]

.... No electrons were harmed in the posting of this message.

 

[sofie]

depending on the Operating System you might be SOL.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


<w3ase@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1114103928.097460.28340@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hi All:

Maybe an impossible task, but worth asking about. I bought a computer
at a hamfest and discovered that it needs a password. The screen comes
up SONY with F3 for setup, Esc. for something else, etc. F3 gets me to
a screen asking for password. Guessing gives me two more chances and
then disables the system.

I need the help of someone who has had similar problem. Can't contact
the person I bought it from since I did not get his name. Duh! George

 

[sofie]

Lenny:
I think your wife is "trying to tell you" that she wants a NEW car.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1114059195.560151.33990@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

We have a 1993 Caprice Classic which was formally a New Hampshire state

police car. We bought it at state auction in 1998 and my wife drove it
ANYONE have any ideas? I appoligize for the long winded story but
I wanted to try to provide all the facts. Thanks for any suggestions.
Lenny Stein.

 

[Electric dabbler]

"sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:116fofvk1i56567@corp.supernews.com...

depending on the Operating System you might be SOL.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


w3ase@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1114103928.097460.28340@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hi All:

Maybe an impossible task, but worth asking about. I bought a computer
at a hamfest and discovered that it needs a password. The screen comes
up SONY with F3 for setup, Esc. for something else, etc. F3 gets me to
a screen asking for password. Guessing gives me two more chances and
then disables the system.

I need the help of someone who has had similar problem. Can't contact
the person I bought it from since I did not get his name. Duh! George



Hi,

If its a system or bios password on a Sony Vaio laptop then it is quite
difficult, the password is held in a EEPROM on the mother board and this is
unaffected if the backup battery or main battery is disconnected.

I worked out my passowrd after reading this:

http://khali.linux-fr.org/vaio/eeprom.html

You'll need to:

1) locate the EEPROM and buy another one from the internet, then solder it
to the motherboard.

2) Hook up another computer with an I2C capable EEPROM programmer and read
the contents of the EEPROM, a convienent place to connect to the I2C bus
(more correctly SM Bus) is on the EEPROM located on one of the SODIMM
modules. You will need to work out the base address of the eeprom mine was
not 0x57 mentioned on the website.

Good luck

Philip

 

[Electric dabbler]

"Electric dabbler" <no.spam@microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:d48pv0$d6k$1@nwrdmz02.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...

"sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:116fofvk1i56567@corp.supernews.com...
depending on the Operating System you might be SOL.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


w3ase@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1114103928.097460.28340@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hi All:

Maybe an impossible task, but worth asking about. I bought a computer
at a hamfest and discovered that it needs a password. The screen comes
up SONY with F3 for setup, Esc. for something else, etc. F3 gets me to
a screen asking for password. Guessing gives me two more chances and
then disables the system.

I need the help of someone who has had similar problem. Can't contact
the person I bought it from since I did not get his name. Duh! George



Hi,

If its a system or bios password on a Sony Vaio laptop then it is quite
difficult, the password is held in a EEPROM on the mother board and this
is unaffected if the backup battery or main battery is disconnected.

I worked out my passowrd after reading this:

http://khali.linux-fr.org/vaio/eeprom.html

You'll need to:

1) locate the EEPROM and buy another one from the internet, then solder it
to the motherboard.

2) Hook up another computer with an I2C capable EEPROM programmer and read
the contents of the EEPROM, a convienent place to connect to the I2C bus
(more correctly SM Bus) is on the EEPROM located on one of the SODIMM
modules. You will need to work out the base address of the eeprom mine was
not 0x57 mentioned on the website.

Good luck

Philip




Actually I should of written

1)....

OR

2)...

There are companies that will sell you an EEPROM that has no password, you
dont need to program it as well.

Philip

 

[sofie]

Wear = time in use

Jerry was right.... just different wording.
Manufacturers us the same wording when they specify MTBF (mean time between
failures)
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in message
news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_42664e2f@fidonet.org...

"Jerry G." bravely wrote to "All" (19 Apr 05 18:41:38)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: ViewSonic E71 with extrange sympthoms..."

JG> From: "Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com
JG> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:46066

JG> Considering the age of the monitor, there are most likely worn
JG> capacitors in the power supply and scan amplifier sections just to
JG> start with. Worn decoupler caps can also cause other types of
JG> component failures.

JG> The caps can be tested with an ESR meter, and a cap meter to start
JG> with. For the cap meter test, they must be removed.

Jerry, I'm not too sure that "wear" is a documented failure mechanism
for electrolytic capacitors. Unless of course they are used as wheels
by a skateboard pro... ;-)

A*s*i*m*o*v

... I worked hard to attach the electrodes to it.