Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

n7uqa91@gmail.com wrote:
Greetings all, I am looking for information on solving a tracking
issue with my Yamaha CD-2 Compact Disk player. The unit has a hard
time seeking track 1 on some disks when the unit has been first
turned on. After the unit as been on for 10 to 15 minutes the problem
goes away. This also seems to be a common problem with this model

Being the cheap scape I am I'd try this newsgroup before I buy a
service manual.

Thanks



Craig
Replace the sled belt, the tray belt (if any) and apply some light oil at
the spindle (disc) motor shaft where it enters the body of the motor. Common
problem. (also clean the laser lens - it's due by now)

Mark Z.
 
"Gordo" <gordon.thompson@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113631542.371086.52780@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
| Am i the only person here crying with laughter?
|

ever heard of live and let live? If he is happy with his beleifs that's
ok.

It may be off-topic but it's not ramming his views down my throat- so
no tears, laughter or otherwise.

I won't be clicking any of the links though. But he has got a response
to his spam so he will count that as a success, so I guess you get his
thanks.
 
I like it !!! I like it !!!

kip
"Lanzar" <christian.loo@netikka.fi> wrote in message
news:677fafc5.0504160514.2d7315ae@posting.google.com...
Unfortunely i have did wath you aren't supposed to doo. I messed with
the
service menu on my Sony KV-X2993E 29" 100Hz television. The problem is
that
under TDA 4686/4780 i turned off the FSW 2 DIS , and then the auto cut
off also
turned off. I turned auto cut off back on but then the on-screen menu
turned
almost black. Then i found out that when i put FSW 2 to on the manu
becomes
visible but the real picture goes black. I can't put the FSW 2 DIS
back on, it
is stucked to off. Is there anything i can do? I can't make both the
menu and the normal picture visible at the same time. Please help
me...
 
Have you tried the thingy on the side that might fix it ?

kip
"ctops" <ctops@usa.com> wrote in message
news:1113661223.892643.26430@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Can't even find this model # , please some help guys !
 
In article <1113670204.570465.192710@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
ctops@usa.com says...
this is like one of the first internal projection big screens it's got
those 3 big glass projection tubes inside., I want to check the power
supply , any better place to find the Model # ?
(1) The boys might tend less to make fun of you if you give
a complete model number (probably RK8350 and in most cases
the AK-whatever is a supurfluous detail), or chassis number
(PTV-375 for example) and symptom(s).

(2) These sets have complex power, sweep, and protection
circuits that require finesse to get working on a good day,
and without experience and a schematic your chances are
not good, even with the group's help. And while I'm at it,
some of the parts that were common failures are no longer
available.

(3) Picture quality was not that great, IMO, even when these
sets were new. Are you sure you don't want to just kick it
to the curb?
 
"Gordo" <gordon.thompson@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113654473.982569.71320@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
| It's got nothing to do with lit and let live. I'm quite happy for him
| to live with these views, it doesn't affect me either way but I do
| reserve the right to find it immensely funny :)
|

You have the right. Go laugh.
 
Seconded. Well said, alan. What NG are you posting from? There are several
in the list. I'm from RAMFM.

-Mike

--
Melt away the Cellulite with Cellulean!
http://www.MeltAwayCellulite.com/


"alan smith" <alan@REMOVEmral.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:d3qs3i$9cj$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
"Gordo" <gordon.thompson@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113631542.371086.52780@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
| Am i the only person here crying with laughter?
|

ever heard of live and let live? If he is happy with his beleifs that's
ok.

It may be off-topic but it's not ramming his views down my throat- so
no tears, laughter or otherwise.

I won't be clicking any of the links though. But he has got a response
to his spam so he will count that as a success, so I guess you get his
thanks.
 
Take set to a professional SONY Service, tell then what you did, and pay the
service charges.
"kip" <kip@our.ca> wrote in message
news:newscache$hkr1fi$qc2$1@newsfeed.niagara.com...
I like it !!! I like it !!!

kip
"Lanzar" <christian.loo@netikka.fi> wrote in message
news:677fafc5.0504160514.2d7315ae@posting.google.com...
Unfortunely i have did wath you aren't supposed to doo. I messed with
the
service menu on my Sony KV-X2993E 29" 100Hz television. The problem is
that
under TDA 4686/4780 i turned off the FSW 2 DIS , and then the auto cut
off also
turned off. I turned auto cut off back on but then the on-screen menu
turned
almost black. Then i found out that when i put FSW 2 to on the manu
becomes
visible but the real picture goes black. I can't put the FSW 2 DIS
back on, it
is stucked to off. Is there anything i can do? I can't make both the
menu and the normal picture visible at the same time. Please help
me...
 
n7uqa91@gmail.com wrote:
Everything is gear driven, the sled and laser pickup assembly. I did
lube the rails for the laser assembly but I didn't think of lubing the
spindle motor shaft. I also cleaned the laser lens. Thanks for your
input..
Yeah, the spindle motor shaft is classic on these. Yamaha of course
suggested replacing the motor, (C.Y.A.) but I've alway had good luck simply
lubricating them. Most of the similar models used belts - I wasn't sure
about the CD-2 - it's been a while.

Mark Z.
 
Generally, any infared receiver will work. They have ground, + 5 volts,
& output. If your'e getting output, the remote is putting out a signal, &
the receiver is working. Your remote may be off frequency. Try a friends
generic remote, to be sure. The receivers rarely go, unless something gets
spilt on it buy cleaning the crt screen, or by getting shorted out. Rono.


"
 
Yes, it's a strange ng mix isn't it? Win98


<memset@recorddeal.com> wrote in message
news:Fgg8e.1619$JJ2.862@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com...
| Seconded. Well said, alan. What NG are you posting from? There are
several
| in the list. I'm from RAMFM.
|
| -Mike
|
| --
| Melt away the Cellulite with Cellulean!
| http://www.MeltAwayCellulite.com/
|
|
| "alan smith" <alan@REMOVEmral.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
| news:d3qs3i$9cj$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
| >
| >
| > "Gordo" <gordon.thompson@gmail.com> wrote in message
| > news:1113631542.371086.52780@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
| > | Am i the only person here crying with laughter?
| > |
| >
| > ever heard of live and let live? If he is happy with his beleifs
that's
| > ok.
| >
| > It may be off-topic but it's not ramming his views down my throat-
so
| > no tears, laughter or otherwise.
| >
| > I won't be clicking any of the links though. But he has got a
response
| > to his spam so he will count that as a success, so I guess you get
his
| > thanks.
| >
| >
|
|
 
If the set is under warranty, you should send it for warranty repairs. There
may be a video processing fault, or some other defect. There are a number of
areas in the set that can go faulty, and cause your description.
Troubleshooting for the exact fault may be complex, depending on exactly
what has failed.

--

JANA
_____


<jafreck@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1113576959.878364.226170@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I have a 27" Panasonic TV that I purchased a little over a year ago. I
beleive it is a model CT-27.

Ever since I've had the set the image has looked washed out.

For example... If there is a commercial with a logo onscreen with white
lettering and a slightly darker background... The TV renders them as if
they were both white so you can't read the lettering. When the logo is
faded out at the end of the commercial, you can start to see more
detail in the image for a brief moment.

I have tried adjusting the contrast brightness and color settings to no
avail. I have tried different video cables both RCA and S-VIDEO with no
success. I've even tried an in-line attenuator on the video input, but
it only dims the image, it doesn't correct the problem.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
Drew
 
You will have to get the set properly set up, at an authorized Sony service
centre. Each of the sets are different for their values, according to design
tolerances. The cost will be depending on the amount of time it will take
to get things back.

--

JANA
_____


"Lanzar" <christian.loo@netikka.fi> wrote in message
news:677fafc5.0504160514.2d7315ae@posting.google.com...
Unfortunely i have did wath you aren't supposed to doo. I messed with
the
service menu on my Sony KV-X2993E 29" 100Hz television. The problem is
that
under TDA 4686/4780 i turned off the FSW 2 DIS , and then the auto cut
off also
turned off. I turned auto cut off back on but then the on-screen menu
turned
almost black. Then i found out that when i put FSW 2 to on the manu
becomes
visible but the real picture goes black. I can't put the FSW 2 DIS
back on, it
is stucked to off. Is there anything i can do? I can't make both the
menu and the normal picture visible at the same time. Please help
me...
 
broughcut@gmail.com wrote:
I received a ThinkPad (T23) in the post a few days ago. It had been
left in Sleep mode and the battery was too flat to boot.

I had intermittent power-on probs for a day or so. Now if I press the
power button nothing happens, but removing the backup battery at this
point will turn the machine on (no need to press the power button
again). Leaving the backup battery out entirely solves the problem, and
the machine turns on first time with no problem -- although it will not
load the operating system, so doing away with the backup battery
entirely doesn't seem to be an option :(

I think the Power Manager has got stuck into thinking there's no power
as a consequence of the extended sojourn in sleep mode with a near flat
battery.

I flashed the BIOS with the latest version to no avail (it is possible
to power on with the backup battery installed but it takes a lot of
messing around, diconnecting/reconnecting AC & batt etc). I have also
tried draining the capacitor by keeping the power button pressed with
mains/batt and backup disconnected.

I have a couple of questions. Is it possible to disable the pre 'power'
on test? Why hasn't leaving the motherboard without any power for a few
hours already reset the system -- could this prob be due to something
else entirely?

thanks for everyone's time.
Hi...

Maybe I'm missing something here... I don't have a
thinkpad... but why don't you just replace the battery
and be done with it?

As for resetting the bios to it's defaults... is there
possibly a pair of pins to short to do this? Or isn't
there a cmos setup to restore defaults?

Good luck, and take care.

Ken
 
Do Little Jr wrote:
"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in
message news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_4256d9cb@fidonet.org...

[.... ]

Rare VTVM's used a 100 Meg ohm input but the standard was 10 Meg.

Sorry Asimov, I find that questionable at best.
For even in 1950 - 60' any 'industrial workhorse' like the tube-type
HP 410B used 100 Meg ohms input as a standard input
It was only when the DVM came on the scene that most inputs
appeared to drop to 10 Meg Ohms.

No, VTVMs designed for repair shops were 10 Meg on the AC ranges and
11 Meg on the DC ranges. The extra 1 meg was in the DC probe to reduce
loading in tuned circuits to minimize the effects of probing the
circuit.

You didn't see HP VTVMs in repair shops.

--
Former professional electron wrangler.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
njchen24@yahoo.com.sg wrote:
Greetings:

I have a cordless sweeper (Shark EuroPro) which uses 6 Cells Sub C NiCd
1300 mAh. The cost to replace these cells is equivalent to 10 Cell Sub
C NiMH 3300 mAh. Is there any problem if I replace any device
(Cordless Vacum, Drill, Screw driver etc.) design for NiCd with a
different type i.e. NiMH? In other word, will the charger for NiCd be
able to charge NiMH?

Any insight thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
I'd say the answer is a definite maybe...
The situation is improving over time, but there are some general guidelines.
NiCd seem to be better in high drain applications because of their lower
internal resistance and slower self discharge.
Cells are optimized for different purposes. For a fixed size and
technology, there's an inverse tradeoff between capacity and fast charge
capability.
For slow charge applications, NiMH are somewhat less tolerant of
long-term overcharge.
For fast charge applications, the charge termination characteristics can
be sufficiently different that charge does not terminate when NiMH cells
are used on a NiCd charger. This is much worse because a charger
designed for one hour now takes three. This c/3 may not be enough to
cause the internal processes that are detected to terminate charge based
on C.
There may be a safety timer that times out based on 1300mAH and only
gives you 1/3 charge.

Safest thing to do is use the battery supplied by the vendor.
mike

--
Return address is VALID but some sites block emails
with links. Delete this sig when replying.
..
Wanted, PCMCIA SCSI Card for HP m820 CDRW.
FS 500MHz Tek DSOscilloscope TDS540 Make Offer
Wanted, 12.1" LCD for Gateway Solo 5300. Samsung LT121SU-121
Wanted 12" LCD for Compaq Armada 7770MT.
Bunch of stuff For Sale and Wanted at the link below.
MAKE THE OBVIOUS CHANGES TO THE LINK
ht<removethis>tp://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Monitor/4710/
 
DAAAA The backup battery is working fine but it won't power up with it
plugged in?????????????????
What is the voltage of the battery when plugged in and trying to power on?
Are the wires reversed? Have you replaced it with a new one?? If that is the
case the only resolve is replace the mother board.



<broughcut@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113711441.181903.321810@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Both the backup battery and the main battery are working fine. Problem
is, when the backup battery is powering the bios, the machine won't
power on, even if connected to AC power (as I say, I suspect the power
management is too blame).

Without the backup battery, it powers on, but the system keeps cycling
to back to the BIOS and asking me to set the time. If I could be done
with the backup battery altogether that would be great, but I can't
seem to get past the BIOS without it installed.
 
Not clear what "backup" battery you are referring to here that is "working
fine", but I'd strongly suspect the on (mother) board backup battery is weak
or dead. Replace it with a fresh one, reset your BIOS, and then report
back. Or, tell us how you know that the on board backup battery is known
good.

Bob

<broughcut@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113711441.181903.321810@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Both the backup battery and the main battery are working fine. Problem
is, when the backup battery is powering the bios, the machine won't
power on, even if connected to AC power (as I say, I suspect the power
management is too blame).

Without the backup battery, it powers on, but the system keeps cycling
to back to the BIOS and asking me to set the time. If I could be done
with the backup battery altogether that would be great, but I can't
seem to get past the BIOS without it installed.
 
Probably some filter capacitors in the video or supply circuits. Due to the
age you may want to shop around for either a good price on the repairs or
just replace the 18 year old tele.
<Zeph1z@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113772473.814366.223720@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
I will say this television is pretty old and i'm not suprised it is
having problems since it was made in October 1987. I'm just surprised
it is still working. Although the colors are all shot from some of the
"guns" going out.

Anyways, in the last day, vertical bars have been forming from the left
of the screen. They decrease in darkness on only half of the screen.
The other (right) side is absent of these bars.

My questions are:

What could be causing this?

Also, how much would the estimated cost be to repair it? Or would it be
wiser to just get a new television?
 
<RonGrossi382653@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113760339.645125.124120@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

< rambling crap I can hear from any idiot >

Is there a good way to block Usenet posts from Google?
--
N
 

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