Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On Wed, 20 Apr 2005 11:01:47 -0400, "Lurch" <l@urch.net> put finger to
keyboard and composed:

People should take heed about the gospel of Jesus Christ ...
Click to expand...
I might, but Jesus Christ didn't consider that the Word of God, his
father, the Creator of the Universe, was important enough to write
down in his own infallible hand. Hence there is no "gospel of Jesus
Christ", only the third hand recollections of a few of his fallible,
illiterate disciples.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.
 
You have a long way to go, but you sort of have the right idea. It would be
beyond the scope of emails to fix your monitor using emails.

You can heat the caps with a heat gun, and when warm, you can do the ESR
testing. Many of the caps go high in ESR when they are warm. The ESR test
is best done when both warm and cold.

Just keep in mind, that if you have a piece of equipment, and it is changing
specs over a period of time, from when it was turned on, this means that
there is something that has become thermo sensitive. If you give something a
wack, and it starts to work, this is an indication that there is a cold
solder connection, or something is making poor contact.

The horizontal output transistor (HOT), is best removed for testing. There
are very low resistor values, and components of low resistance that are
connected to the HOT, and thus, your ohm meter will not be practical to use
to test it properly. Use the diode test option on your DVM to test
semiconductors. If the HOT is a FET device, then it can get a bit tricky to
do a simple test. Most of the time, when a HOT goes bad, it is usually
shorted from the emitter to the collector. In the case of a FET, this would
be from the source to the drain.

When troubleshooting any piece of equipment, start with the power supply
first. In the case of a monitor, the next step is the high voltage (HV)
area, and the scan amplifiers.

As for learning, TV equipment is about the worse to start with. The modern
day TV sets and monitors, are very complex to start with. Even the sets of
many years ago were not very simple.

Working on computer monitors is even worse than standard TV sets. The
manufactures will not sell any service parts, and service manuals to any non
contracted service people. In many of the cases with the new monitors, they
are servicing them mostly at the modular level now. The cost of the labour,
parts management, and the added training is too great in relation to
changing a complete board while the unit is under warranty. After warranty,
for the end user, a monitor can be too expensive to service.

Just take care for proper safety issues when working on display equipment.
The power supply in a monitor or TV set can easily badly injure someone, or
take their life. This type of work is a serious matter.

--

JANA
_____


<jbdude2000@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1114304486.423269.81250@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hello,

I'm quite new to electronics repair but I believe I do have a basic
understanding of things. I've spent the better part of today
troubleshooting a dead monitor. The monitor is an HP Pavilion v70,
model number: P3209S, chassis: Tatung C7Es.

I've followed the FAQ a bit and tried to determine what I should do but
I've gotten stuck. Over the past couple of weeks the horizontal
deflection would cut out occasionally (wouldn't come back with a gentle
whack) and would be fine after shutting it off to rest for a few
minutes. Also, the picture's vertical deflection would squash down
about an inch on top and bottom, but this could be fixed with a gentle
tap, so I suspect it was just a loose connection.

A couple days ago it decided that it would not power up at all. There
are no indications of power (no static, no clicks, no lights, etc.)
Upon opening the case and plugging it in, if I listen closely I hear it
clicking quietly like a clock (as in the FAQ.) I've tested the HOT and
it appears to be shorted out and I don't measure voltage on it. I'm
not sure I'm measuring it correctly, but I'm putting my black lead on a
ground and the red lead on each leg of the HOT. I read 0V on each one.

Now, I've come to the conclusion that I should replace the HOT, but I'm
not sure if this is the right course of action, nor am I sure if it's
the full problem. I'd like to know if I've done everything correctly
and what I should do next. I have access to a multimeter, 100MHz
oscilloscope, and an ESR meter. If there is any information that I'm
missing, I'll be happy to give more details if I'm able. I'd
appreciate any help in repairing this monitor.

Thanks!
James Bailey
 
On 23 Apr 2005 13:09:51 -0700, lynne.ohare@gmail.com (woohoo) wrote:

Hi All,

Hope somebody can help me with this, my IBM laptop was working fine
and then all of a sudden gave up booting! I get the following message:

PXE-E61 Media test failure, check cable
PXE-M0F Exiting Intel PXE ROM
Operating system non found
Click to expand...
Those messages just mean it tried to boot from the network and
couldn't.

I have two hard disks, and the BIOS settings only show one - the
easily removable one, sadly! I guess i need to get in to check the
other one - can somebody tell me how, or even if this is advisable?

Any help appreciated, thanks,

Lynne.
Click to expand...

It sounds like the main hard drive has failed. Since it's not even
detecting it, there's probably not much you can do to revive it.
Andy Cuffe

baltimora@psu.edu <-- Use this address until 12/31/2005

acuffe@gmail.com <-- Use this address after 12/31/2005
 
"Mark D. Zacharias" wrote:
RonGrossi382750@yahoo.com wrote:
The reason some people don't know for sure
if they are going to Heaven when they die

snip

Take this nonsense somewhere else. We deal in facts here.

Mark Z.
Click to expand...

Mark, this spam is posted from an AOL account though Google groups,
using a yahoo return adddress. Forward the message with full headers to
AOL and complain

*********************************************************

Search results for: 172.142.183.161


OrgName: America Online
OrgID: AOL
Address: 22000 AOL Way
City: Dulles
StateProv: VA
PostalCode: 20166
Country: US

NetRange: 172.128.0.0 - 172.191.255.255
CIDR: 172.128.0.0/10
NetName: AOL-172BLK
NetHandle: NET-172-128-0-0-1
Parent: NET-172-0-0-0-0
NetType: Direct Allocation
NameServer: DAHA-01.NS.AOL.COM
NameServer: DAHA-02.NS.AOL.COM
NameServer: DAHA-07.NS.AOL.COM
Comment: ADDRESSES WITHIN THIS BLOCK ARE NON-PORTABLE
RegDate: 2000-03-24
Updated: 2003-08-08

TechHandle: AOL-NOC-ARIN
TechName: America Online, Inc.
TechPhone: +1-703-265-4670
TechEmail: domains@aol.net

OrgAbuseHandle: AOL382-ARIN
OrgAbuseName: Abuse
OrgAbusePhone: +1-703-265-4670
OrgAbuseEmail: abuse@aol.net

OrgNOCHandle: AOL236-ARIN
OrgNOCName: NOC
OrgNOCPhone: +1-703-265-4670
OrgNOCEmail: noc@aol.net

OrgTechHandle: AOL-NOC-ARIN
OrgTechName: America Online, Inc.
OrgTechPhone: +1-703-265-4670
OrgTechEmail: domains@aol.net

# ARIN WHOIS database, last updated 2005-04-23 19:10
# Enter ? for additional hints on searching ARIN's WHOIS database.



--
Former professional electron wrangler.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
aniruddh_sarkar@yahoo.com (Aniruddh Sarkar) writes:

Hi,

I am not very sure whether this is the best suited forum for my query
but still I am sure this is not totally off-topic. So here goes..

Our 1990-purchased JEOL 6400 Scanning Electron Microscope recently
developed an intermittent problem of black bands randomly
appearing/sliding on its display.

This was traced to an oscillating 24V supply powering, among other
things, its objective lens control board and the objective lens
itself. We found both ends of the objective lens (basically an
elaborate coil of insulated copper wire wound on a conical steel(?)
core) winding were at ~1 ohm to the the instrument chassis while the
coil itself ~2ohm across.

Disconnecting the lens has stopped the supply oscillation etc but
ofcourse now there is no image!

We are guessing that either the condensation due to the running
cooling water or the heating due to lack of it has shorted the
innermost layers of winding to the core.

While we are still hunting for a spare, I would like to enquire people
here for pointers on design & rewinding of electromagnetic lens coils.
The winding looks specially designed - with number of turns decreasing
in each layer in a particular fashion as one goes up the core.

Will just replicating the winding - wire gauge & the turn pattern -
bring it back to function?
Click to expand...
While I'm not an expert on SEM design, there is no magic involved.
Replicating the coil as precisely as possible should restore function.
It certainly can't hurt while you search for a new coil.

Roughly how many turns are involved? Is this something you could do
with a manual coil winding machine or by hand?

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
Aniruddh Sarkar wrote:
Hi,

I am not very sure whether this is the best suited forum for my query
but still I am sure this is not totally off-topic. So here goes..

Our 1990-purchased JEOL 6400 Scanning Electron Microscope recently
developed an intermittent problem of black bands randomly
appearing/sliding on its display.

This was traced to an oscillating 24V supply powering, among other
things, its objective lens control board and the objective lens
itself. We found both ends of the objective lens (basically an
elaborate coil of insulated copper wire wound on a conical steel(?)
core) winding were at ~1 ohm to the the instrument chassis while the
coil itself ~2ohm across.
Click to expand...
What's the specification for the resistance of the coil? Are you sure
that's not the correct reading?

If the coil were shorted, wouldn't the image distortion be a lot worse
than the bands caused by the oscillation??? In fact, are you sure it's
oscillation and not ripple? Black bands "sliding" on a video display
sounds like ripple. I'd go find a person with an oscilloscope
and try to figure out what's happening.

For something that critical and expensive, I'd check with the vendor
before I tried fixing something that ain't broke. Once you take apart
the coil, it's all over. Your homemade replacement is likely to be
less good than a "real" one. It's hard enough to get even spacing by
hand on a flat winding.
I'd be more inclined to work on fixing the power supply oscillation.
Even if the coil is shorted to the frame, it's probably easier to
build a floating supply to drive it than to try to get the shaped field
correct in a rewound coil.

Disconnecting the lens has stopped the supply oscillation etc but
ofcourse now there is no image!

We are guessing that either the condensation due to the running
cooling water or the heating due to lack of it has shorted the
innermost layers of winding to the core.

While we are still hunting for a spare, I would like to enquire people
here for pointers on design & rewinding of electromagnetic lens coils.
The winding looks specially designed - with number of turns decreasing
in each layer in a particular fashion as one goes up the core.

Will just replicating the winding - wire gauge & the turn pattern -
bring it back to function?
Click to expand...
If you match the wire and the winding exactly, it "has" to work.
But if you fixed something that wasn't broke, it won't fix the system.
mike


Any info/pointers highly appreciated!
Click to expand...


--
Return address is VALID but some sites block emails
with links. Delete this sig when replying.
..
Wanted, PCMCIA SCSI Card for HP m820 CDRW.
FS 500MHz Tek DSOscilloscope TDS540 Make Offer
Wanted, 12.1" LCD for Gateway Solo 5300. Samsung LT121SU-121
Wanted 12" LCD for Compaq Armada 7770MT.
Bunch of stuff For Sale and Wanted at the link below.
MAKE THE OBVIOUS CHANGES TO THE LINK
ht<removethis>tp://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Monitor/4710/
 
"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w64ycl5il.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...
aniruddh_sarkar@yahoo.com (Aniruddh Sarkar) writes:



Our 1990-purchased JEOL 6400 Scanning Electron Microscope recently
developed an intermittent problem of black bands randomly
appearing/sliding on its display.




While I'm not an expert on SEM design, there is no magic involved.
Replicating the coil as precisely as possible should restore function.
It certainly can't hurt while you search for a new coil.
Click to expand...
There may well be magic involved. In order to rewind a new coil they
will have to unwind the original to save the steel(?) core to wrap the
new coil on. Big buck$ and no going back.

I bet the original coil had to be tweaked after manufacture because of
impurities in the wire and variations in insulation thickness.
Alignment may require some expensive toys and training.
 
jbdude2000@yahoo.com wrote:
Hello,

I'm quite new to electronics repair but I believe I do have a basic
understanding of things. I've spent the better part of today
troubleshooting a dead monitor. The monitor is an HP Pavilion v70,
model number: P3209S, chassis: Tatung C7Es.

I've followed the FAQ a bit and tried to determine what I should do but
I've gotten stuck. Over the past couple of weeks the horizontal
deflection would cut out occasionally (wouldn't come back with a gentle
whack) and would be fine after shutting it off to rest for a few
minutes. Also, the picture's vertical deflection would squash down
about an inch on top and bottom, but this could be fixed with a gentle
tap, so I suspect it was just a loose connection.

A couple days ago it decided that it would not power up at all. There
are no indications of power (no static, no clicks, no lights, etc.)
Upon opening the case and plugging it in, if I listen closely I hear it
clicking quietly like a clock (as in the FAQ.) I've tested the HOT and
it appears to be shorted out and I don't measure voltage on it. I'm
not sure I'm measuring it correctly, but I'm putting my black lead on a
ground and the red lead on each leg of the HOT. I read 0V on each one.

Now, I've come to the conclusion that I should replace the HOT, but I'm
not sure if this is the right course of action, nor am I sure if it's
the full problem. I'd like to know if I've done everything correctly
and what I should do next. I have access to a multimeter, 100MHz
oscilloscope, and an ESR meter. If there is any information that I'm
missing, I'll be happy to give more details if I'm able. I'd
appreciate any help in repairing this monitor.

Thanks!
James Bailey

I'm sure you are right about the HOT shorted. If it uses thermo grease,
Click to expand...
be surer to use a thin even amount (not the liquid y stuff when you
first squeeze it out of tube). Next find the cold solder joint that took
out the HOT. Since you were tapping or whacking it, look at the flyback
for bad solder joints since it's heavy and more susceptible to movement,
look for broken traces on board and check the electrolytic capacitors
for bulges on top and an ESR meter for the others. Good Luck.
 
andrewmstein@gmail.com wrote:
1) The EXACT version of the program/software/hardware you're using
- I'm using Windows Xp Home edition, and my browser is Internet
Explorer v6
2) What exactly you`re trying to do and how you`ve been trying to do it
- view the Source (HTML code) of any page on the internet, by going
to View > Source in Internet Explorer.
3) What result you`ve been getting - I've been getting around 9 new
programs installed every time I click on it, saw it via Task Manager.
All some form of a virus or adware, I believe. Definitely not a normal
result of clicking View Source.
4) What exactly you`d like the program to do - I'd like View Source
to operate as it should normally operate.

Narrative:
My CPU seems bugged with a certain virus that is triggered by one event

alone. It's whenever I click on "View Source" in the VIEW menu of
Internet
Explorer. It adds around 10 new programs to the Windows Task Manager
and slows up
the whole system. I seem to be free of any signs of viruses though. My
CPU is
asymptomatic apparently. I just use "System Restore" to get my
computer back to a useable state. Any thoughts on why this is
happening? Norton Antivirus didn't detect anything as well.
Thanks!

Andrew

PS- Sorry if this is in the wrong group, but I simply cannot find a
Virus group to post in.
Click to expand...

Hi Andrew...

I suspect that you're not being plagued (sorry for the
pun) with a virus, but rather by spyware.

I'd urge you to install and run both ad-aware (freeware)
and spybot (voluntary donateware) and see what they find.

Let us know how it works out.

Ken
 
<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1114363801.535927.254630@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Sometimes when I use the anhydrous isopropyl in the shop she complains,
or smells like paint thinner will bring one on too but they would
affect most people I'm sure. She is pre menopausal and perhaps that may
have something to do with this. I don't know. Whats so frustrating is
that as a technician I repair things for a living and this is something
that I just can't seem to fix. Lenny
Click to expand...
Pretty hard to fix something when the symptoms are not apparent to you
though.
 
"Derelict" <not@at.home> wrote in message
news:fBOae.3103$Bb.1492@okepread06...
"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w64ycl5il.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...
aniruddh_sarkar@yahoo.com (Aniruddh Sarkar) writes:



Our 1990-purchased JEOL 6400 Scanning Electron Microscope recently
developed an intermittent problem of black bands randomly
appearing/sliding on its display.




While I'm not an expert on SEM design, there is no magic involved.
Replicating the coil as precisely as possible should restore function.
It certainly can't hurt while you search for a new coil.


There may well be magic involved. In order to rewind a new coil they
will have to unwind the original to save the steel(?) core to wrap the
new coil on. Big buck$ and no going back.
Click to expand...
Going back? It's already broken, what's he got to lose?
 
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:BWQae.3150$yc.3104@trnddc02...
"Derelict" <not@at.home> wrote in message
news:fBOae.3103$Bb.1492@okepread06...


There may well be magic involved. In order to rewind a new coil
they
will have to unwind the original to save the steel(?) core to wrap
the
new coil on. Big buck$ and no going back.


Going back? It's already broken, what's he got to lose?


The OP and his multimeter have not done nearly enough troubleshooting to
Click to expand...
mess with a device that could easily cost $300K. I bet he didn't pay
for it.
 
On Thu, 21 Apr 2005 10:29:27 -0700, sofie wrote
(in article <116fop2mi9vqs13@corp.supernews.com>):

I think your wife is "trying to tell you" that she wants a NEW car.
Click to expand...
Take her for a test drive in a new Mercedes. Does she get a headache?

:)

Seriously, it really sounds like you have covered all the bases. You haven't
answered the question about if she gets headaches driving any other cars.

Good luck,
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group
 
fancy nospam tunes wrote:
I've seen ads and auction listings for "reconditioned batteries" for
laptop and notebook computers.

If you've tried a rejuvinated battery, please post your experience,
bad or good. Also, any recommendations, as to whether to buy a "new",
"used", "refurbished", or "reconditioned" batteries.
Click to expand...
Doesn`t it mean that it`s a reclaimed battery case with new rechargable
cells fitted inside? Not rejuvenated as in cycled many times to restore
some of the original capacity.

Ron(UK)
 
"fancy nospam tunes" <tunesandballoons@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1270ed33.0504241038.c3dcde4@posting.google.com...
I've seen ads and auction listings for "reconditioned batteries" for
laptop and notebook computers.

If you've tried a rejuvinated battery, please post your experience,
bad or good. Also, any recommendations, as to whether to buy a "new",
"used", "refurbished", or "reconditioned" batteries.
Click to expand...
It depends on the cells they use, often times a remanufactured battery will
use newer higher capacity cells than the original and will be better than
new.
 
On Sun, 24 Apr 2005 19:03:06 +0000 (UTC), "Ron(UK)"
<ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote:

I've tried hitting shorted Nicads with the charge from a photoflash
capacitor, and it fixes them for a while, but not for long.

Stepan
 
In article <1270ed33.0504241038.c3dcde4@posting.google.com>,
fancy nospam tunes <tunesandballoons@yahoo.com> wrote:
I've seen ads and auction listings for "reconditioned batteries" for
laptop and notebook computers.

If you've tried a rejuvinated battery, please post your experience,
bad or good. Also, any recommendations, as to whether to buy a "new",
"used", "refurbished", or "reconditioned" batteries.
Click to expand...
The common way would be just to re-cell it. But if a new one is still
available it *should* be cheaper due to lower mass production costs.

--
*Why does the sun lighten our hair, but darken our skin?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
There's several pictured on Ebay right now...

<bkj333@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1114210913.459483.267370@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hello,

Would anyone have any pictures or illustrations showing any
battery-operated portable Telefunken cassette tape recorders from the
1960s and/or '70s?
Click to expand...
 
Ok First pull the cabinet apart get out that
DVM and start doing some tests,
also check the filters in the SMPS section.
Not to mention bad solder connections.

kip


<nekountze@brownell.edu> wrote in message
news:1114426157.617028.157770@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
Hi All,

I Have a 9" portable ac/dc Sony KV-9PT60 which has been taking longer
and longer to first display the picture when turned on. For the last
year it was taking about 15 seconds (acceptable), but just now has
started taking 30 minutes. The sound comes on instantly, and picture
when it does show (after warming up presumably) is perfect. Turn it
off after warming, and it comes on almost instantly. It is used on AC
at room temperature.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Neely
Click to expand...
 
One other possibility may be how the vehicle positions her neck. Some
people are more sensitive to how their neck is positioned. Play with
the headrest or maybe try a neck support. My 2 cents.
 
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