PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

john_c@tpg.com.au (John Crighton) wrote in message news:<3f03aad8.2850173@News.CIS.DFN.DE>...
On 1 Jul 2003 06:50:06 -0700, agw@woodtech.net.au (Andy) wrote:

saz@bigpond.net.au wrote in message news:<v7k2gvk60mfgv7ggo2rkoe5ue820iuu1da@4ax.com>...
Hi guys,

I was wondring where I could get a crimper for insulated terminal . I
want to crimp 8 and 4 awg cables using ring terminals.

I know jaycar sells the terminals but I cannot find a crimper for
4awg cables.

The crimpers I have will do up to 6mm which is the best i could find.
I don't want to spend too much..
maybe around 50 bucks..

thanks

Hello "saz",

Firstly I would try contacting your local auto electrical distributor
to see what they have available. Tools for this size cable can be
expensive (eg. RS part #445-611 @ $243.00 plust GST) - Their pricing
on this tool is actually quite reasonable (for a change :) ). The
other options are the tools that either you hit with a big hammer or
squeeze up in a vice. These type of tools should be available through
the auto electrical distributors as they are used for crimping battery
cables and most will crimp up to 4/0 AWG.

If you really get stuck try contacting Colourview Electronics in
Brisbane (Ph 07 3275 3188). They are distributors for the SMH range of
connectors and tooling and the SMH catalogue lists both the hammer
and vice-squeeze type of crimpers. I dont have any pricing on these
items but due to their simplicity I would assume they may be a cheaper
alternative.

Cheers,

Andy

Hello Andy and the Group,
I am also interested in finding a cheap way of crimping
lugs onto heavy cables. Car starter motor type cable,
medium and small, similar size to the original poster. 8 to 4 AWG.
I followed up your lead with Colourview Electronics,
thanks for that.
The pluger device that is hit with a hammer would cost
$100. They have to import it from America.

The squeeze with a vice type sounds good. I am imagining
a couple of steel pieces with half a hexagons of various
sizes. Colourview had no leads on where to get something
like that.

I did find a hit with a hammer lug crimper at Lincoln Electric
here in Sydney. Paid $13 for it but it was far too big for what
I wanted. They were out of stock of the smaller model for
smaller lugs and said they would probably not get any more.
This crimper was like hinged tongs several inches long.
Lower tong had a large half barrel shape for the lug to sit in.
Upper tong was flat with a small protrusion for making a
longways dent in the lug.
Not as nicely made as the plunger type. Makes a mess of
the smaller lugs. Secure, but ugly. You definitely don't
want to fit clear heatshrink to these crimped lugs.

Just for the groups interest I came across this home made
crimper.
http://www.haritech.com/crimp.htm
Only does one size but looks like it does a good job for
the odd heavy duty crimp.
If I could get similar hexagon crimp quality with a homemade
device that I could squeeze up in a vice I would be happy.
Looks like I will have to find some half inck thick steel
and start filing some half hexagons.

Regards,
John Crighton
Hornsby
Click to expand...

G'day again John,

I almost forgot this one - try your local marine shop / ship
chandlers. I'm sure I've seen battery cable crimpers advertised in
their catalogues in the past.

Andy
 
Try going to the ABC web-site and become a member (simple registering
process on-line) of the 'Science-matters' forum. There are some R& D type
dudes there last time I was there.

Jason


"Mark Evans" <markevans@iinet.net.au> wrote in message
news:1611990e.0307011841.20d85c3a@posting.google.com...
Hello all,
My name is Mark Evans, I am a third year electronics engineer and
computer science student at UWA in Western Australia.

I am looking for vacation work experince ideally over this coming
Christmas break 2003-04 in the E.Eng field.

I have been interested in electronics for a long time and consider
it a hobby, not just a career prospect. I am proficient with Atmel
AVR, dabbled with PICs, USB, built my own amplifier etc etc.
I have undertaken a few of my own programming projects in Visual C++.

Many of the places that offer vacation work in Western Australia are
mining companies with work more focused on power electronics which
is not my real interest. I am more interested in embedded system
design: microcontrollers etc and analog/rf circuit design.

I would prefer to undertake my work experience in a field that
interests me, over pay, location (I would be willing to travel
interstate or possible overseas) etc.

I dont know if this is the appropriate forum to post this request as
this seems predominantly for the hobbiest, however I hope some of
you are in the Australian engineering community and can point me in
the right direction. Thanks

Sincerely
Mark Evans

Hi Mark,
Click to expand...
 
Some completely unemployable fuckwit claiming to be
Phil Allison <philallison@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f03dbd8$0$31274$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
just the usual puerile shit thats all it can ever
manage when its got done like a dinner, yet again.

No wonder its completely unemployable and no one
with any sense has anything to do with it in person.
 
"Rod Speed" <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:be1tre$cria$1@ID-69072.news.dfncis.de...

No wonder its completely unemployable and no one
with any sense has anything to do with it in person.
Click to expand...

** The Robot describes itself - it that the same as consciousness ?



............. Phil
 
check with these guys, they bought out Hynudai http://www.hynix.com/eng/index.html

Cheers

"john deer" <johndeer@canada.com> wrote in message news:M_YMa.1358$Fy1.68595@localhost...
Hi,

I'm looking for technical documentation for the Hyundai HB10601NY LCD
display.

Thanks
John Deer
Click to expand...
 
the LCD business was spunoff, try here... www.hylcd.com

Cheers again.

"john deer" <johndeer@canada.com> wrote in message news:M_YMa.1358$Fy1.68595@localhost...
Hi,

I'm looking for technical documentation for the Hyundai HB10601NY LCD
display.

Thanks
John Deer
Click to expand...
 
Some completely unemployable fuckwit claiming to be
Phil Allison <philallison@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f04aaef$0$727$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
just the usual puerile shit thats all it can ever
manage when its got done like a dinner, yet again.

No wonder its completely unemployable and no one
with any sense has anything to do with it in person.
 
Ross Herbert wrote:
G'day Ross,

I have a feeling the OP is talking about Jaycar part # PT-4564. These
are 4AWG terminals to suit their 4AWG cable # WH-3064, WH-3066.

Andy

Hi Andy,

Yes, I see what he is talking about now. Catalogue page no and part
would have helped though.
Click to expand...
Andy,

Apologies to you if you took my comment about lack of Jaycar catalogue
info as a criticism. I didn't mean you and I was expressing this opinion
in relationship to the original post.

Rgds,

Ross Herbert
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for all replies some useful, and not so useful, but at least
interesting.

A list of faults so far tracked down,
1) A carbonising capacitor on a rfi pcb that decided to fail, letting the
smoke out in a big way! Pong..
2)the inverter snubber network failed, (possibly due to voltage fed back
somehow,
3)the static bypass switch had a s/c thyristor causing one phase to be
output when there should have been none, this would have caused the above
also.

Once again thanks for the replies but we have made good contact with a
service centre who are being very helpful with a service manual and
technical support and spare parts. Support like that is good when it
happens.

minsik@"NOSPAM"4u.net
 
On Fri, 4 Jul 2003 20:40:47 +1000, "skozzy"
<ask_me_for_my@email.address.com> wrote:

I finally got hold of a card for the sunshine HEP-808 eprom programmer. And
I have also programmed the chip I needed (27c64)

I remember years ago stacking two EPROM's on top of each other and putting a
2 pole toggle switch on 2 pins of each eprom and was able to disable one and
enable the other.
Does anyone know which pins have to be used for this switch to work ?
Click to expand...
Chip select or output enable, depends a bit on the circuit
but CS would almost certainly work.

Mike Harding
 
Thank you

"Martin Riddle" <martinriddle@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:XU2Na.24001$C83.2260870@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
the LCD business was spunoff, try here... www.hylcd.com

Cheers again.

"john deer" <johndeer@canada.com> wrote in message
news:M_YMa.1358$Fy1.68595@localhost...
Hi,

I'm looking for technical documentation for the Hyundai HB10601NY LCD
display.

Thanks
John Deer
Click to expand...
 
hi

i am trying to actually see the difference between NGK and Champion plugs
and their respective waveforms, and yes i have worked with the lucas stuff
as i have a jag.

Baz
"Andy" <agw@woodtech.net.au> wrote in message
news:ad702681.0307010638.46bd761d@posting.google.com...
Testing <testing@testing.com> wrote in message
news:<MPG.196a20269d6b978c989680@news.zipworld.com.au>...
In article <3efee40c$0$5973$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au>,
barrymain@yahoo.com says...
hi

anyone know how to use a CRO to view spark in a car, i think u can use
foil
around the leads as pickups but would like any info if anyone knows

barrymain@yahoo.com



Foil around the leads only gives you a voltage pickup, this will result
in great sensitivity to dV/dt.

I am assuming the OP wants a way of measuring the HT side of the
ignition. If this is the case then VOLTAGE is what needs to be
measured!

A better way is a current transformer.

Crap!! - Current transformer my arse. Ok for viewing primary waveform
but not on secondary patterns. I have been servicing / repairing
automotive diagnostic euipment for the best part of 20 years (Bosch,
Sun/SnapOn, Bear, OTC/SPX, Fluke, Repco/Allen etc.) and have not yet
seen any serious manufacturer use a current pickup for secondary
waveforms. Inductive is ok for triggering a timing light (~ 100mA) but
not for 'scope patterns.
You
need to surround the lead with a ferrite core such as a small C-core.
The
lead passes once thru the core. Wind a few turns of wire around the
other
leg and connect a resistor across the ends of this coil and close to the
core to reduce dV/dt pickup. Connect the CRO across the resistor. The
resistor value should be in the order of a few hundred ohms. Just
experiment a bit. I have done this before and have managed to diagnose
crook plug leads. Even better is to put the current transformer around
the coil lead/s. This lets you compare the spark going to each plug.
Triggering can be tricky, try using the holdoff, too. On a proper
ignition analyser, consecutive spark pulses have increasing DC offsets
on
the CRO screen for easy vertical comparison. Would not be too hard to
design one.

The "alfoil" method, while crude, still works on capacitive coupling
which is the industry standard for viewing secondary patterns. I have
also seen copper braid (from RG8 coax) used successfully. Only thing
to be careful of is if the HT arcs over to your "probe" - some sort of
protection (spark gap) is necessary here otherwise bye-bye scope front
end!!.
Remember the basic rule - KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid). The current
transformer method will work but is not as simple to apply as
capacitive pickup.
BTW "Testing", do you or have you ever worker for Lucas/CAV?. They
have produced the most over-engineered and unreliable crap that I
have ever seen - get out of "Uni mode" and into "real world mode" -
the benefits are enormous!!

Apologies for my ranting,


Andy
Click to expand...
 
** The original post is missing here for optusnet users (at least).

This post comes up on Google Groups as a solid block of code.

The author has no idea what is going on - he and I have exchanged
emails.

Any thoughts ???


........... Phil
 
I finally got hold of a card for the sunshine HEP-808 eprom programmer.
And
I have also programmed the chip I needed (27c64)

I remember years ago stacking two EPROM's on top of each other and
putting a
2 pole toggle switch on 2 pins of each eprom and was able to disable one
and
enable the other.
Does anyone know which pins have to be used for this switch to work ?

Chip select or output enable, depends a bit on the circuit
but CS would almost certainly work.

Mike Harding
Click to expand...
I had a look at the data sheet at this website (pdf)
http://microcomputer.pet.ac.il/microcomputer/DataSheet/Memory/AM27C64.pdf

It shows Pin 20 as Chip Enable Input and Pin 22 as Output Enable Input.

For my 1st test, I stacked the 2 eproms on top of each other, bent out pin
20 on both, connected them via a switch and for the first few times the
switch did swap over the different eprom, but after a few mins the data went
haywire and now the lower eprom is always on, the top eprom seems to not be
able to take over.

So at this stage I am assuming something else needs to be done, perhaps
putting gnd or vcc to pin 20 of the non-used eprom at the time, or maybe
even using pin 22 on both in conjunction with pin 20. Not really sure here.
 
Today I replaced a 1.6amp fuse and and a varistor in my DVD player, it's now
working. The UPS varistor is so burned I can't make out what it was supposed
to be, but dispite that, there are 4 tracks on the pcb burned off, I might
just junk that unit and think about replacing it. As for the Stereo and
Printer, I am still to look at them.
 
On Sat, 5 Jul 2003 12:23:07 +1000, "Phil Allison"
<philallison@optusnet.com.au> put finger to keyboard and composed:

** The original post is missing here for optusnet users (at least).

This post comes up on Google Groups as a solid block of code.

The author has no idea what is going on - he and I have exchanged
emails.

Any thoughts ???


.......... Phil
Click to expand...
The message is in base64 binary encoded format. Save the message body
as a .b64 file and then view it with Winzip.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.
 
On Sat, 5 Jul 2003 14:19:32 +1000, "skozzy"
<ask_me_for_my@email.address.com> wrote:

I finally got hold of a card for the sunshine HEP-808 eprom programmer.
And
I have also programmed the chip I needed (27c64)

I remember years ago stacking two EPROM's on top of each other and
putting a
2 pole toggle switch on 2 pins of each eprom and was able to disable one
and
enable the other.
Does anyone know which pins have to be used for this switch to work ?

Chip select or output enable, depends a bit on the circuit
but CS would almost certainly work.

Mike Harding

I had a look at the data sheet at this website (pdf)
http://microcomputer.pet.ac.il/microcomputer/DataSheet/Memory/AM27C64.pdf

It shows Pin 20 as Chip Enable Input and Pin 22 as Output Enable Input.

For my 1st test, I stacked the 2 eproms on top of each other, bent out pin
20 on both, connected them via a switch and for the first few times the
switch did swap over the different eprom, but after a few mins the data went
haywire and now the lower eprom is always on, the top eprom seems to not be
able to take over.

So at this stage I am assuming something else needs to be done, perhaps
putting gnd or vcc to pin 20 of the non-used eprom at the time, or maybe
even using pin 22 on both in conjunction with pin 20. Not really sure here.
Click to expand...
Chip select on the 2764 is active low - ie. the device is selected if
CS is low and not if CS is high, so you will need a DPCO switch
which sets one CS low and the other high via a (say) 4K7 resistor
and vice versa when you flip the switch the other way. The 27C64
is a CMOS version of this EPROM and unused pins must NOT be
allowed to float.

Don not attempt to perform the switching when the microprocessor
is running - only when power is turned off - otherwise switch bounce
will, almost certainly, cause a crash. It's all a bit of a Mickey
Mouse way of doing things but will probably work :)

Mike Harding
 
Chip select on the 2764 is active low - ie. the device is selected if
CS is low and not if CS is high, so you will need a DPCO switch
which sets one CS low and the other high via a (say) 4K7 resistor
and vice versa when you flip the switch the other way. The 27C64
is a CMOS version of this EPROM and unused pins must NOT be
allowed to float.

Don not attempt to perform the switching when the microprocessor
is running - only when power is turned off - otherwise switch bounce
will, almost certainly, cause a crash. It's all a bit of a Mickey
Mouse way of doing things but will probably work :)
Click to expand...
Have a look at this pic and tell me if I am on the right track.
http://home.iprimus.com.au/pinball_player/27c64/eprom-switch.gif

What do you think about using Pin 22 (Output Enable) inplace of pin 20 (Chip
Enable), the data sheet seems to show me that Pin 22 when active HI is in
Output Disable and Active LOW is Read mode.

The data sheet (http://home.iprimus.com.au/pinball_player/27c64/27c64.pdf)
seems to contradict itself when using 2 eproms on the one data bus.

After reading a little more, it seems I should be using Pin 22. I might try
this out as well and see how it goes.
 
On Sun, 6 Jul 2003 00:47:06 +1000, "skozzy"
<ask_me_for_my@email.address.com> wrote:

Chip select on the 2764 is active low - ie. the device is selected if
CS is low and not if CS is high, so you will need a DPCO switch
which sets one CS low and the other high via a (say) 4K7 resistor
and vice versa when you flip the switch the other way. The 27C64
is a CMOS version of this EPROM and unused pins must NOT be
allowed to float.

Don not attempt to perform the switching when the microprocessor
is running - only when power is turned off - otherwise switch bounce
will, almost certainly, cause a crash. It's all a bit of a Mickey
Mouse way of doing things but will probably work :)

Have a look at this pic and tell me if I am on the right track.
http://home.iprimus.com.au/pinball_player/27c64/eprom-switch.gif

What do you think about using Pin 22 (Output Enable) inplace of pin 20 (Chip
Enable), the data sheet seems to show me that Pin 22 when active HI is in
Output Disable and Active LOW is Read mode.

The data sheet (http://home.iprimus.com.au/pinball_player/27c64/27c64.pdf)
seems to contradict itself when using 2 eproms on the one data bus.

After reading a little more, it seems I should be using Pin 22. I might try
this out as well and see how it goes.
Click to expand...

The circuit shown should work, but cant 1000% guarantee this depending
on the circuitry on the host MPU board.

if it doesn't - then by all means shift the wires to the switch from
pin 20 to pin 22 and see what happens. You won't damage anything and
one or the other should work.

Check first to make sure that the 20 and 22 positions on the board are
NOT connected directly to ground. if so - then you must isolate this
pin first.
Connecting any non-power pin of an IC to either Vcc or Vss is bad
Click to expand...
practice and a 1k resistor should be used.
-----------------------------------------


Better still - use a 27128. The method below will work on any system
without needing board modifications and wont interfere with the
existing chip select functions of the host MPU. It also involves only
one chip and is neater.

------

Program the first 2764 eprom into the 128 lower half (A13 pin low) and
the second eprom into the upper half (A13 pin high)

When finished bend the A13 pin up so as it doesn't go into the socket
before putting the chip in the socket (presumably the pinball MPU
board?) and then connect this pin to +5v via a 4k7 resistor - and also
to ground via a switch in series with (say) 470R resistor.

you can expand this further and further if you want many different
versions of an eprom in there - a 27256 for example will hold 4, a
512 will hold 8 etc. you will need extra switches for the higher
address pins.


If this is a pinball machine project (as the link would imply) - with
a 27020 or similar and a bank of dip switches - you could probably put
ALL of the older (earlier) game roms into one chip and have a
universal MPU board without too much trouble :)

Excellent for something like a test MPU board for when working on many
machines.
 
"skozzy" <ask_me_for_my@email.address.com> wrote in message
news:3f066fad_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
Today I replaced a 1.6amp fuse and and a varistor in my DVD player, it's
now
working. The UPS varistor is so burned I can't make out what it was
supposed
to be, but dispite that, there are 4 tracks on the pcb burned off, I might
just junk that unit and think about replacing it. As for the Stereo and
Printer, I am still to look at them.
Click to expand...
There was an article in the Sunday Mail today about that surge. They reckon
the cost is millions, around 1000 homes and businesses suffered. Apparently
a lot of insurance companies refuse to pay out. Energex has denied liability
butt will provide some letter for insurance purposes.
 
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