PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

"Phil Allison" <philallison@optusnet.com.au> wrote:

Electric oven/rangetop.



** Well - I suppose it could have been a gas one and utterly off topic.

Well it does have electronics in it :)
 
On 1 Jul 2003 06:50:06 -0700, agw@woodtech.net.au (Andy) wrote:

saz@bigpond.net.au wrote in message news:<v7k2gvk60mfgv7ggo2rkoe5ue820iuu1da@4ax.com>...
Hi guys,

I was wondring where I could get a crimper for insulated terminal . I
want to crimp 8 and 4 awg cables using ring terminals.

I know jaycar sells the terminals but I cannot find a crimper for
4awg cables.

The crimpers I have will do up to 6mm which is the best i could find.
I don't want to spend too much..
maybe around 50 bucks..

thanks

Hello "saz",

Firstly I would try contacting your local auto electrical distributor
to see what they have available. Tools for this size cable can be
expensive (eg. RS part #445-611 @ $243.00 plust GST) - Their pricing
on this tool is actually quite reasonable (for a change :) ). The
other options are the tools that either you hit with a big hammer or
squeeze up in a vice. These type of tools should be available through
the auto electrical distributors as they are used for crimping battery
cables and most will crimp up to 4/0 AWG.

If you really get stuck try contacting Colourview Electronics in
Brisbane (Ph 07 3275 3188). They are distributors for the SMH range of
connectors and tooling and the SMH catalogue lists both the hammer
and vice-squeeze type of crimpers. I dont have any pricing on these
items but due to their simplicity I would assume they may be a cheaper
alternative.

Cheers,

Andy
Hello Andy and the Group,
I am also interested in finding a cheap way of crimping
lugs onto heavy cables. Car starter motor type cable,
medium and small, similar size to the original poster. 8 to 4 AWG.
I followed up your lead with Colourview Electronics,
thanks for that.
The pluger device that is hit with a hammer would cost
$100. They have to import it from America.

The squeeze with a vice type sounds good. I am imagining
a couple of steel pieces with half a hexagons of various
sizes. Colourview had no leads on where to get something
like that.

I did find a hit with a hammer lug crimper at Lincoln Electric
here in Sydney. Paid $13 for it but it was far too big for what
I wanted. They were out of stock of the smaller model for
smaller lugs and said they would probably not get any more.
This crimper was like hinged tongs several inches long.
Lower tong had a large half barrel shape for the lug to sit in.
Upper tong was flat with a small protrusion for making a
longways dent in the lug.
Not as nicely made as the plunger type. Makes a mess of
the smaller lugs. Secure, but ugly. You definitely don't
want to fit clear heatshrink to these crimped lugs.

Just for the groups interest I came across this home made
crimper.
http://www.haritech.com/crimp.htm
Only does one size but looks like it does a good job for
the odd heavy duty crimp.
If I could get similar hexagon crimp quality with a homemade
device that I could squeeze up in a vice I would be happy.
Looks like I will have to find some half inck thick steel
and start filing some half hexagons.

Regards,
John Crighton
Hornsby
 
Right and left channels are identical, so compare the two with the scope.

Rudolf

"Karol Doktor" <karolski@melbpc.org.au> wrote in message
news:be0bv2$5g0$1@possum.melbpc.org.au...
Hi All,

Visiting my friend and seeing that one chennel in his
amplifier was not working I have offered that I'll have
look at it. As it turned out the right speaker was disconnected
because the channel was distorting badly. At very low
power it was OK but at higher the bottom halve of sine signal
had a big dent in it, almost looking like clipped at zero.

At home I have gone for the most probable cause, the power
amplifier (STK4132II), I have ordered it and replaced.
No difference! I have started looking at some earlier stages
but without a diagram got lost quickly. I have called
SANYO and they were happy to reprint a 20 year old service
manual for me. Unfortunately it looks like a 5th generation
xerox copy. Schematics are barely readable but PCB layouts
useless.

Anyway, it looks like the problem is in the final stage
because on the scope (despite noise) the input signal looks
OK. Also, without load the clipping is very distinct.
Visually, nothing is burned out. On the final output PCB
the input signal goes through two capacitors and two
resistors straight to the input pin of the integrated amplifier.
I suspect a fault somewhere in the feedback loop but there
are only passive elements there. Has anybody had a similar
problem? Any recommendations?

Thanks, Karol
 
"Rudolf Ladyzhenskii" <rudolf.ladyzhenskii@REMOVETOREPLYadcomtech.net> wrote
in message news:3f03c30c$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
Right and left channels are identical, so compare the two with the scope.

Rudolf

"Karol Doktor" <karolski@melbpc.org.au> wrote in message
news:be0bv2$5g0$1@possum.melbpc.org.au...
Hi All,

Visiting my friend and seeing that one chennel in his
amplifier was not working I have offered that I'll have
look at it. As it turned out the right speaker was disconnected
because the channel was distorting badly. At very low
power it was OK but at higher the bottom halve of sine signal
had a big dent in it, almost looking like clipped at zero.

At home I have gone for the most probable cause, the power
amplifier (STK4132II), I have ordered it and replaced.
No difference! I have started looking at some earlier stages
but without a diagram got lost quickly. I have called
SANYO and they were happy to reprint a 20 year old service
manual for me. Unfortunately it looks like a 5th generation
xerox copy. Schematics are barely readable but PCB layouts
useless.

Anyway, it looks like the problem is in the final stage
because on the scope (despite noise) the input signal looks
OK. Also, without load the clipping is very distinct.
Visually, nothing is burned out. On the final output PCB
the input signal goes through two capacitors and two
resistors straight to the input pin of the integrated amplifier.
I suspect a fault somewhere in the feedback loop but there
are only passive elements there. Has anybody had a similar
problem? Any recommendations?

Thanks, Karol
Check the CAPS or replace/swap them over from the L to R channels and see if
the distortion follows the caps. Same goes for the other components
connected to individual channels.

It would be handy if you had an LCR meter to be able to identify the faulty
cap/resistor.



 
"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:3F03892B.7FEA124C@bigpond.net.au...
Phil Allison wrote:

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:3F02C6E1.408A942E@bigpond.net.au...
Phil Allison wrote:

Snip Phil's waffle

** Fuck you - Ross.


Snip Phils waffle and rude remarks.


** That is desperate stuff - Ross.

Your obsessive attention to my posts here is very far from
welcome -
Ross.

Now let me recap this situation. My first response in this thread was to
the OP, NOT you Phil. Now pardon me if I am wrong here, and I know I am
not, it was YOU who responded to my post.

** Since it contradicted mine and was wrong.



I would venture to say that it
looks like it is YOU who has the obseesive attention to MY posts instead
of the other way round.

** The obsession is very obvious.




Your obsessiveness is really quite weird - Ross.

Your mental condition has deteriorated, quite noticeably -
Ross.

You find it difficult to be rational with anyone - Ross.

You are off with the pixies .


Well, at least I had a successful career lasting 37 years as distinct
from your own history of employment.

** You worked for Telstra - a sheltered workshop for incompetants and
unemployables elsewhere.



I am married, have 3 adult
children, - 2 of them with university degrees - and all well adjusted.

** Shame about you then.


Can you say these things about yourself? Have you ever been married,
built a home and raised children and held a job over any length of time?

** 30 years as a tech is not bad - both employed and running a business in
a very dificult area.


Somehow I doubt it Phil.

** Get fucked Ross.


You are apparently a lonely eccentric who
cannot attract the attentions of anyone who would be willing to share
their life with you. I wonder why that would be the case.

** Wonder all you like.



The lack of
any real personal relationship history is evident by your insulting,
rude and obnoxious attitude which you regularly display on this group
towards other posters.

** And what you just posted is polite and rational - I suppose ??



.................... Phil
 
"Rudolf Ladyzhenskii" <rudolf.ladyzhenskii@REMOVETOREPLYadcomtech.net> wrote
in message news:3f03c30c$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
Right and left channels are identical, so compare the two with the scope.

Rudolf

"Karol Doktor" <karolski@melbpc.org.au> wrote in message
news:be0bv2$5g0$1@possum.melbpc.org.au...
Hi All,

Visiting my friend and seeing that one chennel in his
amplifier was not working I have offered that I'll have
look at it. As it turned out the right speaker was disconnected
because the channel was distorting badly. At very low
power it was OK but at higher the bottom halve of sine signal
had a big dent in it, almost looking like clipped at zero.

At home I have gone for the most probable cause, the power
amplifier (STK4132II), I have ordered it and replaced.
No difference! I have started looking at some earlier stages
but without a diagram got lost quickly. I have called
SANYO and they were happy to reprint a 20 year old service
manual for me. Unfortunately it looks like a 5th generation
xerox copy. Schematics are barely readable but PCB layouts
useless.

Anyway, it looks like the problem is in the final stage
because on the scope (despite noise) the input signal looks
OK. Also, without load the clipping is very distinct.
Visually, nothing is burned out. On the final output PCB
the input signal goes through two capacitors and two
resistors straight to the input pin of the integrated amplifier.
I suspect a fault somewhere in the feedback loop but there
are only passive elements there. Has anybody had a similar
problem? Any recommendations?

** Check for open low value resistors like 10 ohms or 100 ohms.

There may be no visible signs.



.................. Phil
 
"Mark" <higham@optushome.com.au> wrote

im looking for balasts for 15W tubes. where can i buy these in melbourne?
thanks.


***** Any electrical wholesaler or hardware store,ask for 18 Watt ballasts
as the 15 Watt version are now obsolete.The tubes will not notice the
slighly higher current.
Brian Goldsmith.
 
Phil Allison <philallison@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f03c5a6$0$26635$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
Rod Speed <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote
Phil Allison <philallison@optusnet.com.au> wrote
Ross Herbert <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote

Further to the issue, the OP might check his home
insurance policy to see what it says about vehicle impact.

He already said he was NOT insured.

Point taken. So unless he can find out the driver details by
some means or other and then mount a private action he has
no recourse and must wear the cost of repairs to his appliances.

Have you stopped to consider the driver of the car that hit
the pole and knocked it down ? He or she is likely to be
very seriously injured - so would any passengers. There is
NOTHING here to say the incident was his or her fault - he or she
may have been forced off the road by something or someone.

Sure, but they can pass the claim on to
whoever cause their car to hit the pole.

That is a great big maybe.
Pigs arse it is. They'd have those details
available for their own claim, stupid.

Power poles on roadsides are a MAJOR hazard
to road users - innocent and guilty alike.

Sure, but most customers of power companys wouldnt
be interested in paying for underground power.

Robot remark.
Even you should be able to bullshit your way out of your
predicament MUCH better than that pathetic effort, Allison.

No wonder you're completely unemployable and
no one will have anything to do with you personally.

He or she may have no third party property insurance too.

His problem if he did cause the accident.

Major problem getting paid anything.
Depends on what assets he has, stupid.

OTOH Energex chooses, on cost grounds , to have no overvoltage
protection on customer's premises in case of accidents like this or
even trees falling or the effects of storms and high winds etc etc.

Just not feasible to 'protect' against the 11KV line dropping onto
the 240V lines, so that no electronic device will ever get damaged.

Ever heard of transformer saturation ?
Doesnt have a damned thing to do with that particular problem.

The 11 kV can be located away from the 240 lines too.
Just another of your pathetic little drug crazed fantasys, Allison.

That never happens anywhere.

So who was really negligent ?????

Whoever caused the car to hit the pole.

Robot response.
Even you should be able to bullshit your way out of your
predicament MUCH better than that pathetic effort, Allison.

No wonder you're completely unemployable and
no one will have anything to do with you personally.
 
"Rod Speed" <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:be0kbm$116qrk$1@ID-69072.news.dfncis.de...
Phil Allison <philallison@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message


Pigs arse it is.

** A pigs arse is what you are Rod.

Depends on what assets he has, stupid.

** Robot response.


Ever heard of transformer saturation ?

Doesnt have a damned thing to do with that particular problem.

** So the Robot had no clue what transformer satuartion is.



No wonder you're completely unemployable


** You are the unemployed one Rod.

And a monstrous sociopath.


.............. Phil
 
Phil Allison wrote:
"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:3F03892B.7FEA124C@bigpond.net.au...
Phil Allison wrote:

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:3F02C6E1.408A942E@bigpond.net.au...
Phil Allison wrote:

Snip Phil's waffle

** Fuck you - Ross.


Snip Phils waffle and rude remarks.


** That is desperate stuff - Ross.

Your obsessive attention to my posts here is very far from
welcome -
Ross.

Now let me recap this situation. My first response in this thread was to
the OP, NOT you Phil. Now pardon me if I am wrong here, and I know I am
not, it was YOU who responded to my post.

** Since it contradicted mine and was wrong.

I would venture to say that it
looks like it is YOU who has the obseesive attention to MY posts instead
of the other way round.

** The obsession is very obvious.


Your obsessiveness is really quite weird - Ross.

Your mental condition has deteriorated, quite noticeably -
Ross.

You find it difficult to be rational with anyone - Ross.

You are off with the pixies .


Well, at least I had a successful career lasting 37 years as distinct
from your own history of employment.

** You worked for Telstra - a sheltered workshop for incompetants and
unemployables elsewhere.
You wouldn't have a clue about what work I did or what hours I put in.
Sheltered it may have been for some but not the teams I worked in. I was
capable of going back to TAFE and getting my associate diploma in
electronics when I was 38 so I must have been reasonably competent.

I am married, have 3 adult
children, - 2 of them with university degrees - and all well adjusted.

** Shame about you then.
What a well mannered response, - I am surprised at you Phil.

Can you say these things about yourself? Have you ever been married,
built a home and raised children and held a job over any length of time?

** 30 years as a tech is not bad - both employed and running a business in
a very dificult area.
I commend you on your endeavour Phil. Yes, it is a hard area to run a
business. I also run a small business in the same field and get items
sent for repair from PNG, Vanuatu, New Caledonia, Fiji etc., so I guess
my reliability and expertise must count for something. I also do network
cabling mainly associated with the airlines and travel industry. I
recently carried out all the work associated with the Cathay Pacific
Airlines network restructure in WA (3 sites, City HO, Cargo Office and
International airport office). Not bad for an unemployable incompetent
from a sheltered workshop eh?
Somehow I doubt it Phil.

** Get fucked Ross.

You are apparently a lonely eccentric who
cannot attract the attentions of anyone who would be willing to share
their life with you. I wonder why that would be the case.

** Wonder all you like.

The lack of
any real personal relationship history is evident by your insulting,
rude and obnoxious attitude which you regularly display on this group
towards other posters.

** And what you just posted is polite and rational - I suppose ??
What I posted was certainly not 4 letter epithets or abusive insults of
a personal nature. It was however an opinion arrived at by observation
of your posts over a fair period of time, and I think my assessment was
not far off the mark. Personal my remarks may have been, but they were
certainly not abusive in the manner of your own remarks and responses
towards me. Moreover, when we consider the question of just who is being
impolite, I would remind you that it was you who started chucking
impolite and abusive remarks around, as it invariably is when things get
a little heated. My own remarks were simply responses to yours and
contained no 4 letter words like the one you frequently use, and did not
involve verbal abuse or name calling.

Anyway, enough said... I don't intend to continue with this thread if it
is all the same to you Phil. It must be just about played out and other
posters would be getting sick of it by now don't you think?
 
"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au>

Anyway, enough said... I don't intend to continue with this thread if it
is all the same to you Phil. It must be just about played out and other
posters would be getting sick of it by now don't you think?

** You have made an utter ass of yourself once again here Ross and
demonstrated there is no depth you will not sink to in order to deflect
attention from your obvious mental problem.

Your little run in a few years back with the WA police will remain a
secret for now.

I am not near that desperate to pay you back.



................ Phil
 
"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:3F0405C0.14E4F1F3@bigpond.net.au...
Phil Allison wrote:

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au


Anyway, enough said... I don't intend to continue with this thread if
it
is all the same to you Phil. It must be just about played out and
other
posters would be getting sick of it by now don't you think?

** You have made an utter ass of yourself once again here Ross and
demonstrated there is no depth you will not sink to in order to deflect
attention from your obvious mental problem.

Your little run in a few years back with the WA police will remain
a
secret for now.

I am not near that desperate to pay you back.

This sounds like a threat made in desperation Phil and I must warn you
that what you think happened did not in fact occur. You will be
committing a libelous act and I will sue if you do say anything in
public which attempts to harm my character.


** And I suppose you have not been trying to destroy mine here.

How pathetic Ross.

So you tell folk elaborate and absurd lies do you ?



............. Phil
 
Phil Allison wrote:
"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:3F0405C0.14E4F1F3@bigpond.net.au...
Phil Allison wrote:

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au


Anyway, enough said... I don't intend to continue with this thread if
it
is all the same to you Phil. It must be just about played out and
other
posters would be getting sick of it by now don't you think?

** You have made an utter ass of yourself once again here Ross and
demonstrated there is no depth you will not sink to in order to deflect
attention from your obvious mental problem.

Your little run in a few years back with the WA police will remain
a
secret for now.

I am not near that desperate to pay you back.

This sounds like a threat made in desperation Phil and I must warn you
that what you think happened did not in fact occur. You will be
committing a libelous act and I will sue if you do say anything in
public which attempts to harm my character.

** And I suppose you have not been trying to destroy mine here.

How pathetic Ross.

So you tell folk elaborate and absurd lies do you ?
No, only people I do not trust...
 
I am holding off with the ECPO for now. I am still gathering information
from home owners around my street, also electricians I see fixing things
around the place.

> ** Have you tried approaching EPCO yet ??
 
On Thu, 03 Jul 2003 06:49:41 GMT, "Brian Goldsmith"
<brian.goldsmith@nospamecho1.com.au> wrote:

"Mark" <higham@optushome.com.au> wrote

im looking for balasts for 15W tubes. where can i buy these in melbourne?
thanks.


***** Any electrical wholesaler or hardware store,ask for 18 Watt ballasts
as the 15 Watt version are now obsolete.The tubes will not notice the
slighly higher current.
Brian Goldsmith.

This is the first I have heard of 15w becoming obsolete. Our local
Haymans electrical seems able to get them (as of last week when I
last bought them)

I would NOT even contemplate running a 15w tube on an 18w ballast - to
do this to a 15w fluro would burn it out in only a few weeks or even
less. Do NOT try this. If you can't get a 15w ballast try the next
size down which will be marked " 9/11/13w" NOT an 18/20w.

18/20 w TUBES though seem pretty much bulletproof - I have seen them
run for months on 40w ballasts and other than them getting very hot -
they don't seem to fail in a very short time.

15w and less - they will fall over FAST and are expensive to replace
too.
 
I once made a set of crimpers to do a similar task. A trip to the
local electrical supply house allowed me to look at a couple of very
pricy proffesional tools (many $$$s). I used this opportunity to make
some detailed measurements of the consrtuction and operation of the
blades in the crimper (bring vernier calipers if you have them). I
ended making 2 tools, one for me and one for a good friend of mine.
For the first tool, I scavenged an old pair of bolt cutters that had
too many divits in the blades to be useful anymore. Using a grinder, I
flattened the blades so that I could weld on 1/4 inch thick mild steel
"jaws" (local muffler shop). Next, with the jaws in a closed position
and clamped in a vise, I drilled a hole through of the appropriate
diameter using my dad's drill press (I wanted it straight). Finally, a
piece of rod was welded in place on one side to make the actual dimple
in the connector. Before welding in the dimpling rod, I made a couple
of test crimps by manualy placing the rod piece in the jaws (pain in
the butt, but it works). The jaws were long eneough that I got 3
different sizes out of the tool. You could also use a reducer bushing
in the holes to accomodate smaller sizes (never tried it, but thought
about it).

The thing works amazingly well and I still have it somewhere in my
shop. I didn't expect it to last being made out of mild steel, but it
seems that the steel is stronger than the copper alloy connectors it
is crimping. The only ugly part is that I have to keep the jaws
covered in grease to prevent them from rusting.

The second pair was fabricated in a similar fashion, but I used a pair
of large vise grips instead. I like the bolt cutter version better,
its easier to use- more leverage.

Best of luck and CHEERS from Canada

Bob Morgoch

agw@woodtech.net.au (Andy) wrote in message news:<ad702681.0307020428.7d9b1afc@posting.google.com>...
Ross Herbert <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message news:<3F028BA3.A85F0284@bigpond.net.au>...
saz@bigpond.net.au wrote:

Hi guys,

I was wondring where I could get a crimper for insulated terminal . I
want to crimp 8 and 4 awg cables using ring terminals.

I know jaycar sells the terminals but I cannot find a crimper for
4awg cables.

The crimpers I have will do up to 6mm which is the best i could find.
I don't want to spend too much..
maybe around 50 bucks..

thanks

I think you are not really talking about 4 AWG conductors. This guage
equates to a metric size of 27.3 sq mm or a copper conductor of 5.9mm
diameter (not including insulation). All of the pre-insulated crimp
terminals I am aware of cater for a max x-sectional area of 6 sq mm
conductors as indicated in the Jaycar catalogue. If you are talking
about the lugs on these pages then any standard crimper for red, blue
and yellow insulated terminals will do the job, such as Jaycar TH-1829.
Here is the Tyco (was Utilux) range of pre-insulated ring terminals
http://www.tycoelectronics.com.au/brands/utilux/products/indprod/preinsulated_ring_terminals
so you can see for yourself.

Find out exactly what size cables you have then ask again.


Ross Herbert


G'day Ross,

I have a feeling the OP is talking about Jaycar part # PT-4564. These
are 4AWG terminals to suit their 4AWG cable # WH-3064, WH-3066.

Andy
 
On 3 Jul 2003 05:58:02 -0700, bmorgoch@sympatico.ca (Bob M) wrote:

I once made a set of crimpers to do a similar task. A trip to the
local electrical supply house allowed me to look at a couple of very
pricy proffesional tools (many $$$s). I used this opportunity to make
some detailed measurements of the consrtuction and operation of the
blades in the crimper (bring vernier calipers if you have them). I
ended making 2 tools, one for me and one for a good friend of mine.
For the first tool, I scavenged an old pair of bolt cutters that had
too many divits in the blades to be useful anymore. Using a grinder, I
flattened the blades so that I could weld on 1/4 inch thick mild steel
"jaws" (local muffler shop). Next, with the jaws in a closed position
and clamped in a vise, I drilled a hole through of the appropriate
diameter using my dad's drill press (I wanted it straight). Finally, a
piece of rod was welded in place on one side to make the actual dimple
in the connector. Before welding in the dimpling rod, I made a couple
of test crimps by manualy placing the rod piece in the jaws (pain in
the butt, but it works). The jaws were long eneough that I got 3
different sizes out of the tool. You could also use a reducer bushing
in the holes to accomodate smaller sizes (never tried it, but thought
about it).

The thing works amazingly well and I still have it somewhere in my
shop. I didn't expect it to last being made out of mild steel, but it
seems that the steel is stronger than the copper alloy connectors it
is crimping. The only ugly part is that I have to keep the jaws
covered in grease to prevent them from rusting.

The second pair was fabricated in a similar fashion, but I used a pair
of large vise grips instead. I like the bolt cutter version better,
its easier to use- more leverage.

Best of luck and CHEERS from Canada

Bob Morgoch

Hello Bob,
great description on your home made crimper.
I just saw this tool on the web.
http://bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=SwageIt
In the absence of old bolt cutters something like that
could be made by the average hobbyist to fit a large
(car battery) cable crimp lug.
Regards,
John Crighton
Hornsby
 
Andy wrote:
Ross Herbert <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message news:<3F028BA3.A85F0284@bigpond.net.au>...
saz@bigpond.net.au wrote:

Hi guys,

I was wondring where I could get a crimper for insulated terminal . I
want to crimp 8 and 4 awg cables using ring terminals.

I know jaycar sells the terminals but I cannot find a crimper for
4awg cables.

The crimpers I have will do up to 6mm which is the best i could find.
I don't want to spend too much..
maybe around 50 bucks..

thanks

I think you are not really talking about 4 AWG conductors. This guage
equates to a metric size of 27.3 sq mm or a copper conductor of 5.9mm
diameter (not including insulation). All of the pre-insulated crimp
terminals I am aware of cater for a max x-sectional area of 6 sq mm
conductors as indicated in the Jaycar catalogue. If you are talking
about the lugs on these pages then any standard crimper for red, blue
and yellow insulated terminals will do the job, such as Jaycar TH-1829.
Here is the Tyco (was Utilux) range of pre-insulated ring terminals
http://www.tycoelectronics.com.au/brands/utilux/products/indprod/preinsulated_ring_terminals
so you can see for yourself.

Find out exactly what size cables you have then ask again.


Ross Herbert

G'day Ross,

I have a feeling the OP is talking about Jaycar part # PT-4564. These
are 4AWG terminals to suit their 4AWG cable # WH-3064, WH-3066.

Andy

Hi Andy,

Yes, I see what he is talking about now. Catalogue page no and part
would have helped though.

I have a feeling that the insulating sleeve on these terminals is not
suitable for crimping directly. I think it is a slide over sleeve for
covering either a soldered or crimped connection. Insulated terminals
meant for crimping directly require a specific crimping die and the
plastic on such terminals is of a type which can withstand the crimping
process. What he is really looking for is a crimping tool specifically
for uninsulated terminals.

Looking at the specs for the Jaycar cable (p. 112) it consists of 7x7x34
(1666) strands of 0.127mm copper. From this table
http://www.alphawire.com/PAGES/380.cfm?partner=0&part=0 we see that a
similar 4GA cable has a conductor diameter of 7.4mm (without insulation)
and area of 21.1 sq mm. To crimp this size cable in these lugs would
need a tool such as the ones on p.6 of the Cabac catalogue
http://www.cabac.com.au/pdf/jtool1b.pdf
These are not in the cost category of the OP however.

The cheap hammer down type terminator suggested by Zaussieblue would be
ok and is cheap.

Rgds,

Ross Herbert
 
thanks for the replys. what i am doing is making a light box for exposing
riston coated pcb's. i have read web sites that say i can just use standard
"cool white" fluoro tubes instead of UV tubes with the result that it takes
longer. is this true?

if not where can i get the right kind of tubes from?

thanks..

"KLR" <kreed@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:0u78gv4opdephpkccbikfn5qj6orv8o964@4ax.com...
On Thu, 03 Jul 2003 06:49:41 GMT, "Brian Goldsmith"
brian.goldsmith@nospamecho1.com.au> wrote:


"Mark" <higham@optushome.com.au> wrote

im looking for balasts for 15W tubes. where can i buy these in melbourne?
thanks.


***** Any electrical wholesaler or hardware store,ask for 18 Watt
ballasts
as the 15 Watt version are now obsolete.The tubes will not notice the
slighly higher current.
Brian Goldsmith.



This is the first I have heard of 15w becoming obsolete. Our local
Haymans electrical seems able to get them (as of last week when I
last bought them)

I would NOT even contemplate running a 15w tube on an 18w ballast - to
do this to a 15w fluro would burn it out in only a few weeks or even
less. Do NOT try this. If you can't get a 15w ballast try the next
size down which will be marked " 9/11/13w" NOT an 18/20w.

18/20 w TUBES though seem pretty much bulletproof - I have seen them
run for months on 40w ballasts and other than them getting very hot -
they don't seem to fail in a very short time.

15w and less - they will fall over FAST and are expensive to replace
too.
 
john_c@tpg.com.au (John Crighton) wrote in message news:<3f03aad8.2850173@News.CIS.DFN.DE>...
On 1 Jul 2003 06:50:06 -0700, agw@woodtech.net.au (Andy) wrote:

saz@bigpond.net.au wrote in message news:<v7k2gvk60mfgv7ggo2rkoe5ue820iuu1da@4ax.com>...
Hi guys,

I was wondring where I could get a crimper for insulated terminal . I
want to crimp 8 and 4 awg cables using ring terminals.

I know jaycar sells the terminals but I cannot find a crimper for
4awg cables.

The crimpers I have will do up to 6mm which is the best i could find.
I don't want to spend too much..
maybe around 50 bucks..

thanks

Hello "saz",

Firstly I would try contacting your local auto electrical distributor
to see what they have available. Tools for this size cable can be
expensive (eg. RS part #445-611 @ $243.00 plust GST) - Their pricing
on this tool is actually quite reasonable (for a change :) ). The
other options are the tools that either you hit with a big hammer or
squeeze up in a vice. These type of tools should be available through
the auto electrical distributors as they are used for crimping battery
cables and most will crimp up to 4/0 AWG.

If you really get stuck try contacting Colourview Electronics in
Brisbane (Ph 07 3275 3188). They are distributors for the SMH range of
connectors and tooling and the SMH catalogue lists both the hammer
and vice-squeeze type of crimpers. I dont have any pricing on these
items but due to their simplicity I would assume they may be a cheaper
alternative.

Cheers,

Andy

Hello Andy and the Group,
I am also interested in finding a cheap way of crimping
lugs onto heavy cables. Car starter motor type cable,
medium and small, similar size to the original poster. 8 to 4 AWG.
I followed up your lead with Colourview Electronics,
thanks for that.
The pluger device that is hit with a hammer would cost
$100. They have to import it from America.

The squeeze with a vice type sounds good. I am imagining
a couple of steel pieces with half a hexagons of various
sizes. Colourview had no leads on where to get something
like that.

I did find a hit with a hammer lug crimper at Lincoln Electric
here in Sydney. Paid $13 for it but it was far too big for what
I wanted. They were out of stock of the smaller model for
smaller lugs and said they would probably not get any more.
This crimper was like hinged tongs several inches long.
Lower tong had a large half barrel shape for the lug to sit in.
Upper tong was flat with a small protrusion for making a
longways dent in the lug.
Not as nicely made as the plunger type. Makes a mess of
the smaller lugs. Secure, but ugly. You definitely don't
want to fit clear heatshrink to these crimped lugs.

Just for the groups interest I came across this home made
crimper.
http://www.haritech.com/crimp.htm
Only does one size but looks like it does a good job for
the odd heavy duty crimp.
If I could get similar hexagon crimp quality with a homemade
device that I could squeeze up in a vice I would be happy.
Looks like I will have to find some half inck thick steel
and start filing some half hexagons.

Regards,
John Crighton
Hornsby

G'day John,

I spoke with an auto electrician friend today about these crimpers. He
has one of the hammer types that he thinks he may have purchased from
Bellanco. He also said that Brisco Butler (in Brisbane) are also
probably worth a try.
I vaguely remember seeing a vise crimp tool used for crimping car air
conditioning fittings onto the hoses. From memory this tool produced a
hexagonal crimp on the fitting. It had multiple dies with a pivot at
one end - may be worth investigating.

Cheers,

Andy
 

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