PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

[Rudolf Ladyzhenskii]

Do you switch it on at AC power or from stand by?

It should remember channel when you do from stand by, but it does not have
to when you do at mains.
If yoour PP (sound, brightness, etc...) stay same and channel tune is OK, I
would think memory backup is fine.

Rudolf

"Jim Lazzaro" <Jim_Lazzaro@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fae7122f.0307090625.2c062196@posting.google.com...

If anyone could please advise me about what keeps the memory of the
last channel viewed before switch off.
TV is a Philips 14CN2001/75S, it doesn't have a remote.
I am unable to find any batteries or supercaps.
The problem is when switched on the TV starts on channel 0 (sound is
okai)regardless of what channel it was used on.
Unfortunayely I do not have schematics and also I don't see any eeprom
on PCB.
Thanking you in advance.
Jim

 

[Jerry Greenberg]

I have not worked on this model, but can be general.

This can get fairly compex for the novice. If you want to fix this
yourself, you would have to invest in the service manual and see how
your particular model does the memory operation. You will have to
understand the schematics, have the proper tools, and follow procedure
to locate the fault.

The problem is most likely associated with the main uPC. There may be
a CMOS ram or an EEPROM involved. Depending on the design, this can
be an integral part of the uPC, or some other IC device. Some sets
also have a cap, or battery for this function. There are a number of
ways that the memory is retained.

I have also seen firmware problems in sets where the uPC, and or the
IC that does the memory control and function be replaced. If this is
the case, the associated IC's had to be replaced. I have also had some
support components for the controler area fail, thus causing memory
problems.

I would suggest you give the set to an authorsed Philips service rep
if you are not able to do this type of service. This is very
specialized work.



Jerry Greenberg

--




Jim_Lazzaro@hotmail.com (Jim Lazzaro) wrote in message news:<fae7122f.0307090625.2c062196@posting.google.com>...

If anyone could please advise me about what keeps the memory of the
last channel viewed before switch off.
TV is a Philips 14CN2001/75S, it doesn't have a remote.
I am unable to find any batteries or supercaps.
The problem is when switched on the TV starts on channel 0 (sound is
okai)regardless of what channel it was used on.
Unfortunayely I do not have schematics and also I don't see any eeprom
on PCB.
Thanking you in advance.
Jim

 

[Glenn Baddeley]

Myer MegaMart and OfficeWorks both have a good range, and they are right
next to each other in Warrigal Rd (cnr Waverley Rd, just N of the fwy)

Glenn.

David Milne wrote:

Who in Melbourne has the largest range of PDAs?

--

Regards
David Milne

 

[Doug Laidlaw]

Rod Speed wrote:

"Doug Laidlaw" <laidlaws@myaccess.com.au> wrote in message
news:b9qrt-e74.ln1@dougshost.mydomain.org.au...
Phil Allison wrote:


"David Milne" <dmmilne@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
news:3F0A724B.6D6B4357@ozemail.com.au...

Doug Laidlaw wrote:

I am trying to copy some vinyl disks to CD-ROM to make audio CD's.
I am taking output from the top of the player volume control to my
sound card
input. My problem is that turntable rumble at that point is much
louder than the wanted signal, although it is inaudible in the
player's
speakers.
Is there a simple bass-cut circuit I can use, perhaps just a
capacitor
in
each channel to limit low frequencies?


Do you have an RIAA pre-preamp installed between the sound card and
the
record player?



** He says he is using the signal from the vol pot.

He further says he has excessive rumble - typical of a
crappy
TT.

So you think the RIAA pre is missing...... ??????????




............. Phil

I have a crystal PU on a cheap portable changer.

Wouldnt you be better off getting a decent turntable instead ?

If you're gunna go to the trouble of moving
it from vinyl, why not do it properly ?

Corse it might be stuff thats not critical quality wise too.

The input is excessive and
needs to be attenuated to stop overloading the soundcard and program (LP
recorder), but the excessive signal is the turntable noise. The actual
audio seems to be well within limits. I am going to try attenuating the
signal then running it through a filter program, as John Dunkley
suggests. I found a page for a commercial filter, but it has a cut-off of
27 Hz,
which seems too low, and it is not available anyway. The response curve
of a simple capacitor wouldn't be sharp enough.

Doug.

--
Registered Linux user No. 277548.
Linux: in a world without fences, who needs Gates?

Yes, we did consider a turntable, but I will be doing only a few records,
and wanted to avoid the expense. Basically, I am making audio CDs for my
wife's car.

I put a resistive divider across each volume control and was able to record
with no probs. Output was 0.5 db below the maximum allowed. The turntable
noise is audible in the speaker when I am not recording, but doesn't appear
on disk. It must be being coupled in acoustically somewhere. Being a
vinyl record there is a bit of surface noise, but it is for my wife to use
in the car, and she doesn't care.

Thanks to all who helped.

Doug.
--
"Now just a pair to end in 'oo'.
When maids command, wha can't we do?"

 

[Phil Allison]

"Mike Harding" <mike_harding1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6hqpgvkoovettigfn281fdc65b6gg9a1s5@4ax.com...

Anyone have experience of the Bergquist Sil-Pad K10 pads for
mounting a TO220 device on a heatsink. They provide thermal
conductivity and electrical isolation. They are supposed to be
pretty good at transferring the heat having 0.2deg. C/W thermal
resistance. But at $2 each they should be!
(Farnell 936-741 Page 1/955)

Anyone used them or have other suggestions for very high
thermal contact between device and heatsink?

** The published data for a TO220 size K10 insulator says 2 degrees C
per watt - not 0.2. See Bergquist site.

( The Farnell cat is misleading.)

I have tried them and found thin mica and thermal grease to be way
superior to all soft pad alternatives when high thermal conductivity is
needed.



.............. Phil

 

[David Milne]

Glenn Baddeley wrote:

Myer MegaMart and OfficeWorks both have a good range, and they are right
next to each other in Warrigal Rd (cnr Waverley Rd, just N of the fwy)

Glenn.

Sweeeet. That's just up the road...

Thanks Glenn.

--

Regards
David Milne

 

[Craig Sunderland]

Just be careful which grease you use: some are conductive and can flow under
certain conditions. The one I have in mind is Arctic Silver; it's pretty
much the best but you have to be careful where you use it. It can be easily
cleand off with isopropanol or lighter fluid.

Craig

Yep, that's exactly what I've used over the years too and
exactly what I'll use again this time - now! And a lot cheaper
than $2 a time too.

Mike Harding

 

[amstereo-matt2]

there is no reason not to use it, you can't kill anything with it, and that
thing with static electricity, its bad but nothing to scare yourself with, i
generally work with the power supply pluged in but motherboard connections
removed, that way i am earthed when i thought the case. theres nothing on
the board that is magnetic - sensitive, only the HDD and you need a magnet
more powerful then the super bite your fingers type magnets that are INSIDE
YOUR HARD DRIVE

--
i 1197am the new sound of Brisbane
(a proud listener)
"Eyman" <user@anon.com> wrote in message
news:bel1b0$6cbt6$1@ID-198481.news.uni-berlin.de...

Hi,

Im about to remove my motherboard from my computer case to install a
heatsink fan.

Ive typically been using a standard non magnetised screwdriver in the
past,
but am thinking about using a magnetised screwdriver to remove and
install
the motherboard in and out of the case.

I know static electricity is a danger but will the manget effect of the
screwdriver stuff up my motherboard?

thanks in advance

Eyman

 

[Rod Speed]

Eyman <user@anon.com> wrote in message
news:bel1b0$6cbt6$1@ID-198481.news.uni-berlin.de...

Im about to remove my motherboard from
my computer case to install a heatsink fan.

Ive typically been using a standard non magnetised screwdriver
in the past, but am thinking about using a magnetised screwdriver
to remove and install the motherboard in and out of the case.

I know static electricity is a danger but will the manget
effect of the screwdriver stuff up my motherboard?

Nope.

Just keep it away from any floppys you may have lying around.

 

[Phil Allison]

"Craig Sunderland" <craig.sunderland@[NOSPAM]telstra.com> wrote in message
news:3f0d7473$1_2@news.brisbane.pipenetworks.com...

Just be careful which grease you use: some are conductive and can flow
under
certain conditions. The one I have in mind is Arctic Silver; it's pretty
much the best but you have to be careful where you use it. It can be
easily
cleand off with isopropanol or lighter fluid.

** That stuff is loaded full of silver metal particles - so it must NOT
be used with anything even faintly high voltage ( > 12 volts) or where a
metal package or heatsink tab is involved.

Seems to be for use with fast uPs only.


.............. Phil

 

[Rob Judd]

Mike,

With mica showing 0.5deg C/W it would be worth a try. TO-220 packaging
is notorious for its large thermal resistance, so anything that can
potentially reduce the heatsink required is a Good Thing. Let us know
the measured results if you use them.

Rob


Mike Harding wrote:

Anyone have experience of the Bergquist Sil-Pad K10 pads for
mounting a TO220 device on a heatsink. They provide thermal
conductivity and electrical isolation. They are supposed to be
pretty good at transferring the heat having 0.2deg. C/W thermal
resistance. But at $2 each they should be!
(Farnell 936-741 Page 1/955)

Anyone used them or have other suggestions for very high
thermal contact between device and heatsink?

Mike Harding

 

[Dee]

Just as a matter of caution. It is best to disconnect the PC from the mains
before opening the case and working on the mobo. Allow a short time for the
capacitors in the PS to discharge. All newwer mobos are ATX style and use
soft power on / off which means that if you leave the mains cord connected,
the rear power switch on and still connected to an active power point, you
run the risk of damaging the PC mobo, PS or cards / devices plugged in.

I leave the power cord connected, but switched off at the wall. that way
the system is earthed and all I have to do is touch the chassis before
touching anything else (which usually happens anyway) to discharge any
static I may have built up

I've been using mag screwdrivers for years and never had a problem. very
handy if you shake like shit

 

[Whytech]

I have to say Mike, it' better to avoid making the heat in the first place.
I this a hard switching design or linear output? There are some mean MOSFETs
out there if it's a hard switching situation

-Andrew

Whytech
MSP430 / PIC / AVR tools, SMD prototyping adaptors
Imagecraft MSP430 C compilers
http://www.whytech.com.au



"Mike Harding" <mike_harding1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6hqpgvkoovettigfn281fdc65b6gg9a1s5@4ax.com...

Anyone have experience of the Bergquist Sil-Pad K10 pads for
mounting a TO220 device on a heatsink. They provide thermal
conductivity and electrical isolation. They are supposed to be
pretty good at transferring the heat having 0.2deg. C/W thermal
resistance. But at $2 each they should be!
(Farnell 936-741 Page 1/955)

Anyone used them or have other suggestions for very high
thermal contact between device and heatsink?

Mike Harding

 

[John West]

I've been using mag screwdrivers for years and never had a problem. very
handy if you shake like shit

Perhaps a trip to AA would solve that problem aswell.

 

[Mike Harding]

On Sun, 13 Jul 2003 12:38:22 +1000, "Whytech" <thru_website> wrote:

I have to say Mike, it' better to avoid making the heat in the first place.
I this a hard switching design or linear output? There are some mean MOSFETs
out there if it's a hard switching situation

-Andrew

In the ordinary course of events I would agree with you
Andrew. However, this design is an active load and it's
sole purpose in life is to convert electrical energy into
heat

Mike Harding

 

[Mike Harding]

On Sat, 12 Jul 2003 17:53:26 +1000, Rob Judd <judd@ob-wan.com> wrote:

Anyone used them or have other suggestions for very high
thermal contact between device and heatsink?

With mica showing 0.5deg C/W it would be worth a try. TO-220 packaging
is notorious for its large thermal resistance, so anything that can
potentially reduce the heatsink required is a Good Thing. Let us know
the measured results if you use them.

Well we didn't measure the results exactly but we did
observe some interesting things: NB. The numbers below
are from memory (so don't do the maths and tell me I'm
wrong - but they are in the ball park

The worst case for this device will be with 3 MOSFETs
sharing 18A with about 9V3 drop across each mosfet
or about 55W dissipation per mosfet.

The mosfets are mounted on a BIG heatsink (2 parts
of stuff all W/deg C) and initial tests showed that with
1 mosfet directly mounted on the heatsink (ie. no insulating
pad) with grease and passing 9A (about 80W) case temp
of the mosfet was about 90deg C. Next we added a mica
pad and plastic bush from my junk box and case temp
rose to about 125 just about on the limit of junction temp
for this device - but then it was running at 50% over design
max. So with 3 mosfets running 6A each on that same
heatsink it looked like we'd be OK.

Popped into Jaycar the next morning and picked up a
100 pack of mica washers and plastic mounting bushes.
Fitted those, put 3A into the mosfet and case temp went
quickly up to 110 deg! Finally tracked that down to the
Jaycar plastic bush being longer than the mosfet tab
and the Jaycar mica washer having a hole too small for
said plastic bush to fit through! Good one Jaycar! Perhaps
the people who buy your mica washers could talk to the
plastic bush buying people? Filed plastic bushes down
to avoid the problem reassembled heat sink, put 3A in
and temp went to about 60 - pushed current up to 7A
temp started to climb nicely then went berserk - hit the
off switch at about 160 deg and watched the smoke. Jaycar
plastic bush had softened with temp thus reducing pressure
of mosfet against heatsink, hmmmm....

Tried another plastic bush from my junk box and it behaved
in a similar fashion to the Jaycar one - good job I bought
700 of these mosfets!

Tried RS 298-443 pads and bushes - terrible! We didn't
even leave it on long enough to blow up another mosfet.

Tried a piece cut from a Post-It-Note with LOTS of silicon
grease - terrible again - to my surprise.

NB. The original mosfet with my junk box mica pad and
plastic bush is still holding up well - wish I knew where the
hell I had gotten them from!

Finally decided that we couldn't get enough reliable data
on mica washers and plastic bushes to do a decent design
so we'd scrap them altogether and add an extra heatsink
which would allow us to mount things without having to
electrically insulate them and give better cooling as well.

An interesting exercise and, as so often happens in the
design process, it's the things you least expect which bite
you in the bum

Mike Harding

 

[David Milne]

Mike Pont wrote:

Hi,

I'm after an Australian supplier for Dallas Semiconductor I2C digital
themometer chip DS1624 but can't seem to find anyone that sells them here

Regards,

Mike Pont

RS Components have it.
Part number 218-3832 $19.90 each. Then again, you can get free samples from Maxim.

--

Regards
David Milne

 

[LBNote]

Arrow might be the go, however you may need to order a few (10 or so) parts.
otherwise yeah if you can afford the wait then just goto the Delsemi website
and order some free samples.


"David Milne" <dmmilne@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
news:3F126420.CA62775D@ozemail.com.au...

Mike Pont wrote:

Hi,

I'm after an Australian supplier for Dallas Semiconductor I2C digital
themometer chip DS1624 but can't seem to find anyone that sells them
here

Regards,

Mike Pont

RS Components have it.
Part number 218-3832 $19.90 each. Then again, you can get free samples
from Maxim.

--

Regards
David Milne

 

[Tony de Groot]

If Arrow are the answer, I have found that arrow.com (US, not Perth,
don't know about Eastern States Arrows) will sell one or 2 of whereas
the local Arrow will sell MOQ of 200 or more only for most of the
ICs we have been interested in.

Other good part is that Arrow US will deliver in about 8-12 days, while
Arrow Perth will deliver in 4-6 weeks - at best.

Tony.

LBNote wrote:

Arrow might be the go, however you may need to order a few (10 or so) parts.
otherwise yeah if you can afford the wait then just goto the Delsemi website
and order some free samples.

"David Milne" <dmmilne@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
news:3F126420.CA62775D@ozemail.com.au...
Mike Pont wrote:

Hi,

I'm after an Australian supplier for Dallas Semiconductor I2C digital
themometer chip DS1624 but can't seem to find anyone that sells them
here

Regards,

Mike Pont

RS Components have it.
Part number 218-3832 $19.90 each. Then again, you can get free samples
from Maxim.

--

Regards
David Milne

 

[Rod Speed]

"Bob Parker" <bobp@bluebottle.com> wrote in message news:fg48hvs06rscpqokgpao6c4ns8c9gmrcis@4ax.com...

"The real Andy" <ihatehifitrolls@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

Looking for the little samsung camera, but also looking for good prices on
other digital cameras, around the 3.2mega pixel variety.

I know that this is completely off-topic and I might get singed, but
I suggest that you take a look at the Dirt Cheap Cameras website at
http://www.dirtcheapcameras.com.au. I got my 3.2 megapixel Olympus
C-350 over $80 cheaper from them than the going price. Excellent
service too.

If you want to see some samples of the images from a
C-350, look at http://bob.parker.web1000.com/photos.htm.

That cat is obviously an alien too.

I hope this is helpful and not too inflammatory to everyone else...

No need to grovel quite so obsequiously |-)