audio recording on IC -help wanted

Karl Timmermann <timmerk@overridedesign.com> wrote:

I am trying to finish my electric bilge pump for my kayak.

must be small, semi cheap, seal perfectly when closed (not ONE drip)

Why must it be absolutely perfect? Won't you be letting a single drop
of water in past the pilot? Won't your bilge pump handle any water
that leaks into the boat?

What did you find at McMaster-Carr that you didn't like?

--
William Smith
ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc. www.compusmiths.com

 

[Graham W]

"Karl Timmermann" <timmerk@overridedesign.com> wrote in message
news:BCEE56D8.2DF8%timmerk@overridedesign.com...

Hello,

I am trying to finish my electric bilge pump for my kayak. [...]

2.) A 3/4 inch or 1 1/8 inch 12 volt electric water pump (about 800-1000
gallons per hour) that needs to be pretty light.

That amounts to 2 pints (a quart) a second! Are you sure your
hand pump can do that? Sounds a bit much to this land-lubber.


--
Graham W http://www.gcw.org.uk/ PGM-FI page updated, Graphics Tutorial
WIMBORNE http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex
Dorset UK Astro Society's Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps
Change 'news' to 'sewn' in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter.

 

[BruceM]

Don't know what I'm talking about here but I once saw a diagram where you
create a "loop" in your discharge hose so that it is above the water line.
At the top of the loop you have a "fitting" that allows air to enter if
there is a vacuum in the hose but seals when there is pressure in the hose.
Someone else here must know what I'm referring to? Would this do the job?
BruceM


"Graham W" <graham@his.com.puter.INVALID> wrote in message
news:40ca517a$0$544$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net...

"Karl Timmermann" <timmerk@overridedesign.com> wrote in message
news:BCEE56D8.2DF8%timmerk@overridedesign.com...
Hello,

I am trying to finish my electric bilge pump for my kayak. [...]

2.) A 3/4 inch or 1 1/8 inch 12 volt electric water pump (about 800-1000
gallons per hour) that needs to be pretty light.

That amounts to 2 pints (a quart) a second! Are you sure your
hand pump can do that? Sounds a bit much to this land-lubber.


--
Graham W http://www.gcw.org.uk/ PGM-FI page updated, Graphics Tutorial
WIMBORNE http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex
Dorset UK Astro Society's Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps
Change 'news' to 'sewn' in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter.

 

[John Smith]

You are referring to an "anti siphon valve" or sometimes called a "snifter"
valve. These valves are reliable. but rely on pressure to seal, if the
pressure is low, the seal is not tight - with the potential for a "drip". I
also don't see the need for absolute perfection in the seal?

Mick
"BruceM" <bruce9950@@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:40ca5c59@duster.adelaide.on.net...

Don't know what I'm talking about here but I once saw a diagram where you
create a "loop" in your discharge hose so that it is above the water line.
At the top of the loop you have a "fitting" that allows air to enter if
there is a vacuum in the hose but seals when there is pressure in the
hose.
Someone else here must know what I'm referring to? Would this do the job?
BruceM


"Graham W" <graham@his.com.puter.INVALID> wrote in message
news:40ca517a$0$544$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net...

"Karl Timmermann" <timmerk@overridedesign.com> wrote in message
news:BCEE56D8.2DF8%timmerk@overridedesign.com...
Hello,

I am trying to finish my electric bilge pump for my kayak. [...]

2.) A 3/4 inch or 1 1/8 inch 12 volt electric water pump (about
800-1000
gallons per hour) that needs to be pretty light.

That amounts to 2 pints (a quart) a second! Are you sure your
hand pump can do that? Sounds a bit much to this land-lubber.


--
Graham W http://www.gcw.org.uk/ PGM-FI page updated, Graphics Tutorial
WIMBORNE http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex
Dorset UK Astro Society's Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps
Change 'news' to 'sewn' in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter.

 

[Perrito]

que valores tiene escrito en la superficie porque no se ven perolo unico que
te puedo decir que no es un chip żquien fue el que te dijo que era eso lo
que estaba quemado y porque?



"kike" <kike21@kike.com> escribió en el mensaje news:40d66d7d@news...

hay que mirar ojala el datasheet del disco duro, en todo caso segun veo
yo parece entre una resistencia y un diodo, pero la foto no deja ver bien

otra cosa, al desoldarlo/soldarlo de nuevo es algo BIEN dificil, hay
que hacerlo con una soldadora superficial y en fin..

CyrusD wrote:
how is this ??? (see the picture)

Resulta que se me quemo mi disco duro y me dijeron que se podia reparar
cambiandole el "chip" que se quemó, me gustaria saber si alguien sabe
que es
lo que es y donde lo venden

Saludos

 

[kike]

hay que mirar ojala el datasheet del disco duro, en todo caso segun veo
yo parece entre una resistencia y un diodo, pero la foto no deja ver bien

otra cosa, al desoldarlo/soldarlo de nuevo es algo BIEN dificil, hay
que hacerlo con una soldadora superficial y en fin..

CyrusD wrote:

how is this ??? (see the picture)

Resulta que se me quemo mi disco duro y me dijeron que se podia reparar
cambiandole el "chip" que se quemó, me gustaria saber si alguien sabe que es
lo que es y donde lo venden

Saludos

 

[Don Bruder]

In article <Xns9516C63471CA7jyanikkuanet@204.117.192.21>,
Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote:

John Miller <me@privacy.net> wrote in news:cbpls0$fde$1@n4vu.com:

Watson A.Name "Watt Sun - the Dark Remover" wrote:
Does anyone have an authoratative source of info about this, because
I'd rather not use something that could make the corrosion even
worse. Using "Cola" or similar remedies is not what I'd call a valid
method.

Agreed, but since you've raised the issue, it's a good opportunity to
point out that most generic cola drinks do not contain phosphoric
acid, which is the active ingredient involved in most of those cola
"home remedies" (rusty bolt loosener, drain un-clogger, etc.)
Coca-Cola does. Get the real thing! But drink the Coke, and use
actual penetrating oil, Naval Jelly, Drain-O, as appropriate.

OBTW, phosphoric acid is the stuff that soda jerks kept in a small
glass shaker bottle, for making lime or cherry phosphates, etc.
(Sure, I realize that 99% of you have NO idea what a cherry phosphate
is.

Hell Jim, ya probably lost most of 'em at "soda jerks"

--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
I respond to Email as quick as humanly possible. If you Email me and get no
response, see <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html> Short
form: I'm trashing EVERYTHING that doesn't contain a password in the subject.

 

[Jim Yanik]

John Miller <me@privacy.net> wrote in news:cbpls0$fde$1@n4vu.com:

Watson A.Name "Watt Sun - the Dark Remover" wrote:
Does anyone have an authoratative source of info about this, because
I'd rather not use something that could make the corrosion even
worse. Using "Cola" or similar remedies is not what I'd call a valid
method.

Agreed, but since you've raised the issue, it's a good opportunity to
point out that most generic cola drinks do not contain phosphoric
acid, which is the active ingredient involved in most of those cola
"home remedies" (rusty bolt loosener, drain un-clogger, etc.)
Coca-Cola does. Get the real thing! But drink the Coke, and use
actual penetrating oil, Naval Jelly, Drain-O, as appropriate.

OBTW, phosphoric acid is the stuff that soda jerks kept in a small
glass shaker bottle, for making lime or cherry phosphates, etc.
(Sure, I realize that 99% of you have NO idea what a cherry phosphate
is.

Diet Coke contains phosphoric acid,it's right on the label.(got a can right
in front of me!)
I don't know about generic colas,as I don't consume them.
But I suspect most of the colas DO contain phosphoric acid,wouldn't be much
of a drink without it.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

 

[Eric R Snow]

On Mon, 28 Jun 2004 17:53:58 GMT, John Miller <me@privacy.net> wrote:

Watson A.Name "Watt Sun - the Dark Remover" wrote:
Does anyone have an authoratative source of info about this, because I'd
rather not use something that could make the corrosion even worse.
Using "Cola" or similar remedies is not what I'd call a valid method.

Agreed, but since you've raised the issue, it's a good opportunity to point
out that most generic cola drinks do not contain phosphoric acid, which is
the active ingredient involved in most of those cola "home remedies" (rusty
bolt loosener, drain un-clogger, etc.) Coca-Cola does. Get the real
thing! But drink the Coke, and use actual penetrating oil, Naval Jelly,
Drain-O, as appropriate.

OBTW, phosphoric acid is the stuff that soda jerks kept in a small glass
shaker bottle, for making lime or cherry phosphates, etc. (Sure, I realize
that 99% of you have NO idea what a cherry phosphate is.
I'm 48 and I know what they are. They are real good. When I was a

little kid Disneyland had 'em.
ERS

 

[Rich Grise]

John Miller wrote:

Watson A.Name "Watt Sun - the Dark Remover" wrote:
Does anyone have an authoratative source of info about this, because I'd
rather not use something that could make the corrosion even worse.
Using "Cola" or similar remedies is not what I'd call a valid method.

Agreed, but since you've raised the issue, it's a good opportunity to point
out that most generic cola drinks do not contain phosphoric acid, which is
the active ingredient involved in most of those cola "home remedies" (rusty
bolt loosener, drain un-clogger, etc.) Coca-Cola does. Get the real
thing! But drink the Coke, and use actual penetrating oil, Naval Jelly,
Drain-O, as appropriate.

OBTW, phosphoric acid is the stuff that soda jerks kept in a small glass
shaker bottle, for making lime or cherry phosphates, etc. (Sure, I realize
that 99% of you have NO idea what a cherry phosphate is.

It's also the active ingredient in LimeAway.

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Graham W]

"Rich.Andrews" <spmaway@ylhoo.com> wrote in message
news:Xns951858603ECAAmc2500183316chgoill@10.232.1.1...

Tom MacIntyre <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:gu21e0lr7k4mrr86d0mmhjs80c149r5git@4ax.com:
[...]
Interesting. 20+ years ago, Radio Shack batteries were rated as the
best by Consumer Reports magazine.

Tom


It is for idiotic reviews like that that I have complete disdain for CR.
Those people wouldn't know a quality item if their lives depended on it.

Oh, they would - trouble is the item wouldn't be one!


--
Graham W http://www.gcw.org.uk/ PGM-FI page updated, Graphics Tutorial
WIMBORNE http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex
Dorset UK Astro Society's Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps
Change 'news' to 'sewn' in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter.

 

[Don Klipstein]

In article <Xns951858603ECAAmc2500183316chgoill@10.232.1.1>, Rich.Andrews
wrote:

Tom MacIntyre <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:gu21e0lr7k4mrr86d0mmhjs80c149r5git@4ax.com:

On Mon, 28 Jun 2004 13:00:02 -0700, "Watson A.Name \"Watt Sun - the
Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote:


Thanks. Radio Shaft Enercells, AKA piece of junk. I don't think they
have that guarantee. They say, "..return with receipt within 30 days
for a one time refund.." Like, I can do that? No...

Interesting. 20+ years ago, Radio Shack batteries were rated as the
best by Consumer Reports magazine.

Tom


It is for idiotic reviews like that that I have complete disdain for CR.
Those people wouldn't know a quality item if their lives depended on it.

20 years ago I found out on my own that Radio Shack alkaline Enercells
were, on an average at that time, better than Duracell and Energizer.
Currently (or late last year) they're only slightly worse than the
"regular" of the alkalines of the Energizer brand.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[John Miller]

I assume you mean microchip (microship is the Nomadic Research Labs!).

Microchip show the prices for all their products (in US dollars). For
example:

http://www.microchip.com/ParamChartSearch/chart.aspx?branchID=1004&mid=10&lang=en&pageId=74

The website is very easy to navigate. You can get all the datasheets and
other support documentation.

Hope this helps.

John.

"Delfosse Jérôme" <dje@perso.be> wrote in message
news:ccbf92$19b$1@news.brutele.be...

Hello!

I would like to know how/where i can choose a PIC. I already went to
Microship, but i would like to know prices... Does anyone know where i
could
find a catalog online? Else a price list...

 

[Oppie]

Digikey caries microchip products. Check out their information on this page
http://dkc1.digikey.com/US/PDF/T042/M5.html

_________________
"Delfosse Jérôme" <dje@perso.be> wrote in message
news:ccbf92$19b$1@news.brutele.be...
| Hello!
|
| I would like to know how/where i can choose a PIC. I already went to
| Microship, but i would like to know prices... Does anyone know where i
could
| find a catalog online? Else a price list...
|
|

 

[Pooh Bear]

John Miller wrote:

I assume you mean microchip (microship is the Nomadic Research Labs!).

I assume he does.

PICs are certainly available in many formats and are inexpensive but I
would always recommend
any of the now extensive family of 8051 variants for a microcontroller
application.

The basic 8031/8051/8751 - all CMOS now of course, have great I/O as
standard and the
derivatives have a wealth of A-D, D-A, PWM, extra timers etc options.

Better still, the basic chip is available from multiple vendors,
avoiding the single-source
dilemma of the PIC, and many of the more advanced versions are
multi-sourced too. E.g. I have
just been using the 89C52 ( Flash ROM ) which is available from both
Philips and Atmel.

Best of all - the architecture is identical across all variants with
only sub or supersets of
the I/O to take into account. The core always remains the same.

Now available too are variants that operate internally faster per clock
cycle ( typically 2x
and 6x compared to the originals ) but maintain compatability with the
original parts.

The latest LPC series from Philips are just insanely inexpensive too.


Graham

 

[Delfosse Jérôme]

Effectively it was MicroChip... Sorry.

Thank you!


"Pooh Bear" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:40EA329E.1C230E55@hotmail.com...

John Miller wrote:

I assume you mean microchip (microship is the Nomadic Research Labs!).

I assume he does.

PICs are certainly available in many formats and are inexpensive but I
would always recommend
any of the now extensive family of 8051 variants for a microcontroller
application.

The basic 8031/8051/8751 - all CMOS now of course, have great I/O as
standard and the
derivatives have a wealth of A-D, D-A, PWM, extra timers etc options.

Better still, the basic chip is available from multiple vendors,
avoiding the single-source
dilemma of the PIC, and many of the more advanced versions are
multi-sourced too. E.g. I have
just been using the 89C52 ( Flash ROM ) which is available from both
Philips and Atmel.

Best of all - the architecture is identical across all variants with
only sub or supersets of
the I/O to take into account. The core always remains the same.

Now available too are variants that operate internally faster per clock
cycle ( typically 2x
and 6x compared to the originals ) but maintain compatability with the
original parts.

The latest LPC series from Philips are just insanely inexpensive too.


Graham

 

[petrus bitbyter]

"Delfosse Jérôme" <dje@perso.be> schreef in bericht
news:ccbf92$19b$1@news.brutele.be...

Hello!

I would like to know how/where i can choose a PIC. I already went to
Microship, but i would like to know prices... Does anyone know where i
could
find a catalog online? Else a price list...

Have a look at

http://www.voti.nl/

petrus bitbyter




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[Carlo]

Microchip mentions prices at their website, but these are really
positive indications. Probably for 1000 pieces or more.
A possible source for price information is www.farnell.com
They are not the cheapest but this should give you an impression of
prices and they are located in several countries (you didn't mention
your country).

One funny thing I noticed is that most newer chips are cheaper than
the older designs, even when the newer chips are more veratile. The
only explanation I can think of is that these chips are cheaper
because of more efficient production technologies.

For small to medium programs my favorite is the PIC16F628.

"Delfosse Jérôme" <dje@perso.be> wrote in message
news:ccbf92$19b$1@news.brutele.be...
| Hello!
|
| I would like to know how/where i can choose a PIC. I already went to
| Microship, but i would like to know prices... Does anyone know where i
could
| find a catalog online? Else a price list...
|
|

 

[xray]

Apologies to the original poster, but the image of ...

little "witches" flying on "microships"

is too good to pass up. Too bad it isn't the Haloween season.

 

[Bill Garber]

"xray" <notreally@hotmail.invalid> wrote in message
news:gk1ne09f6otn66g9kucdm6554t93p3amnl@4ax.com...
:
: Apologies to the original poster, but the image of ...
:
: little "witches" flying on "microships"
:
: is too good to pass up. Too bad it isn't the Haloween season.

And as I must apologize to you, but Halloween has
2 L's, not one. )

Bill @ GarberStreet Enterprizez };-)
Web Site - http://garberstreet.netfirms.com
Email - willy46pa @ comcast DOT net
Change DOT to a dot to contact me



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