audio recording on IC -help wanted

[Pero]

Hi Adam,
I am not absolutely sure, but I think there is no female board mounted
Faston connector, only male version.

Pero

"Adam" <szostek@panda.bg.univ.gda.pl> wrote in message
news:bt38uj$oau$1@atlantis.news.tpi.pl...

Hi!

Please help mi to find manufacturers part number and/or place where I can
buy a female faston connector - see attachement with a rough drawing of
what
I need.

Male connector , it can be for example LST1506 , but I cannot find female
version. It should be board mounted connector. I need 40000 pcs urgently.
Please advise!!!

Please send answere\s on prive: szostek@panda.bg.univ.gda.pl
Thank you
Adam

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Adam wrote:

Hi!

Please help mi to find manufacturers part number and/or place where I can
buy a female faston connector - see attachement with a rough drawing of what
I need.

Male connector , it can be for example LST1506 , but I cannot find female
version. It should be board mounted connector. I need 40000 pcs urgently.
Please advise!!!

Please send answere\s on prive: szostek@panda.bg.univ.gda.pl
Thank you
Adam

Name: connector.doc
connector.doc Type: Microsoft Word Document (application/msword)
Encoding: x-uuencode

This is not a binaries newsgroup. You can post binaries to
news:alt.binaries.schematics.electronic by attaching it as a GIF, JPEG,
or other common image file. Then, post a message here giving the name
of the post. If you try to post a binary file here, most people will
never see it. Also, a .DOC file can carry a virus, so a lot of people
will not open one.

--
We now return you to our normally scheduled programming.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

Adam wrote:

Hi!

Please help mi to find manufacturers part number and/or place where I can
buy a female faston connector - see attachement with a rough drawing of what
I need.

Male connector , it can be for example LST1506 , but I cannot find female
version. It should be board mounted connector. I need 40000 pcs urgently.
Please advise!!!

Please send answere\s on prive: szostek@panda.bg.univ.gda.pl
Thank you
Adam

Mouser sells faston connectors - see if they have what
you need:
www.mouser.com

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

None wrote:

[Image]

This is not a binaries newsgroup, and that isn't an IC.
--
We now return you to our normally scheduled programming.

Take a look at this little cutie! ;-)
http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.terrell/photos.html

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Brian Howie]

"Muzicke Grane" <muzickegrane@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:3GDQb.109786$lGr.84027@twister01.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...

Thousands of Electronic Definitions - Must see
Literally thousands terms and definitions - must see:
http://www.electronicdefinitions.com

Hmm -doesn't have "squegg" maybe oscillators have stopped doing that.

Brian

--
Brian Howie
BAE SYSTEMS Avionics Limited
Sensor Systems Division
Crewe Toll Phase II, 1st Floor,
Edinburgh EH5 2XS
Phone +44 (0)131 343 8769
FAX +44 (0)131 343 8941
Email brian.howie@baesystems.com

 

[Mike Haaland]

On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 09:18:13 +0100, "Bert" <Mr-Bert.haalmaarweg@
en.dit.ook.lycos.nl> wrote:

I am looking for some silicon serial number devices.

I know of the dallas /maxim DS 2401 and DS2411 devices, but I am interested
to find similar devices of other brands. I do not need the 64 bits serial
number the Dallas chips offer.

Maybe there is some other chip manufacturer that produces some kind of
serial number device?

You could use an Eprom, Pal, Gal, Bi-polar prom, flahs, etc. Program
it with your serial number, then read it back.
Best,

- Mike -

 

[Jean]

Take a look at
http://www.elektor-electronics.co.uk/miniproj/frmipro.htm

good project

grtz
Jean

 

[Michael A. Covington]

"CBarn24050" <cbarn24050@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040331112047.04398.00000430@mb-m05.aol.com...

After some kind of misfortune (overload? nobody knows), the motor
starts
drawing much more current than it should. For example, a damaged motor
will
draw 1 amp at 3 volts, while the undamaged one will draw only 200 mA at
that
voltage.

This has happened to several motors.

Are the permanent magnets getting demagnetized? How?

A motor draws a high current when stalled, ie. at start up, if the supply
has a
high current rating the current demagnetises the magnet. Limit the current
to 3
times FLC, that should protect them.

Just what I was suspecting. These motors are being powered from a NiCd pack
that probably has very low internal resistance. I've suggested that the
students put a 3-ohm resistor (or maybe 1-ohm resistor) in series with it so
that momentary surges of very heavy current will be prevented.

 

[Alastair McGloan]

"krem" <news@rkremser.endjunk.com> wrote in message
news:902af211268eb5a476d2001f258be60b@news.teranews.com...

Hello, I'm looking for some advice on what to look for in a soldering
iron.
I'm going to mainly be using it for through hole components but will have
the occasional SMD part to place. Before today I had two irons, one
15watt
i used for smaller components and a larger 45 watt I used for larger
tasks.
The 15watt died on me with a big flash today, not really sure what
happened
but the set screw broke about two months ago letting the heating assembly
rotate in the shaft of the iron so my guess is it shorted at some point.
I
know not really the smartest of things to keep using but it seemed to work
well. anyways the 15 watt always seemed a bit low to me, at times not
getting the components up to soldering temperatures just over heating
them.
I feel like I should get something around 25 watts but again not really
sure. Not to mention a brand if it is felt there is one better than
another. I know weller has excellent stations as well as irons but I'm
looking to keep this fairly reasonable with pricing. Any thoughts or
suggestions are welcome, I'm always looking to broaden my knowledge base.

On a side note any recomendations on a de-soldering method? I've never
used
any tools other than the iron which has lead to some ugly jobs.

I would recommend buying a good quality secondhand Pace temperature
controlled station, doesn't have to be anything fancy, the old style analog
one would do you nicely. I have an old weller digital station too I keep
specially for burning boards with
Actually to be fair the old weller isn't a bad unit when it works, it just
goes faulty on a regular basis.
I would say that if money was really tight, two cheapie antex irons would be
better, one 15W for the smd stuff, and another 25W for pulling out heatsinks
etc.
If you could live with a little more money, then antex do reasonable analog
and digital stations that are not too expensive and that would do you for
most general things. If on the other hand you are planning in future on
regularly using it on 80 pin flatpacks...then getting a decent quality
station is really the only way to go because accurate temperature control
becomes critical.
De-soldering can be done in many ways, I use braid and a Pace station mainly
now, but used weller rework stations in the past. They were a pain in the
ass with constant clogging etc. You could use a desolder pump for the larger
things like heatsinks etc but don't use it on delicate items until you
master using it, they can be brutal.
I have used a couple of the newer Pace handle/pump units, and they are very
nice, but alas I only had a loan of them, maybe one day I'll buy one and the
heated tweezers to go with it...and while I'm at it I may as well have the
hot air rework station too....I like Pace as a manufacturer, in case you
hadn't already guessed



regards
Alastair

 

[CBarn24050]

What do I need to know about safety in order to change the LOPT? It's
certainly worth trying to repair as the picture quality is excellent, but
not worth dying for !

How do I ensure that there is no HV left in the chassis/tube before starting
work - the monitor has not been powered up for some time (month or so) at
the moment.

Trying to discharge the tube is the quickest way to get a shock, it will
discharge the tube though. Just squeeze the connector and unhook it from the
tube, remember it's still charged and keep your fingers away.

 

[Alastair McGloan]

"Mike Deblis" <mdeblis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:HNogc.31424$h44.4576331@stones.force9.net...

Hi,

I know a bit about low voltage stuff, but I want to change the LOPT in an
Eizo/Nanao monitor.

I know the LOPT is faulty, as it arcs and pops when the monitor is
running,
and after much effort, I've found a spare.

The monitor (an excellent F77) is probably not worth sending to a
professional to replace the LOPT as the s/h value is probably only USD
100-200...

What do I need to know about safety in order to change the LOPT? It's
certainly worth trying to repair as the picture quality is excellent, but
not worth dying for !

How do I ensure that there is no HV left in the chassis/tube before
starting
work - the monitor has not been powered up for some time (month or so) at
the moment.

What special tools (if any) will I need?

I really don't like really HV stuff much (very healthy respect) and would
appreciate the advice...

Thanks from a slightly paranoid Mike...

Make up a proper discharge lead with an old plastic ballpoint pen casing and
a 1meg 1/2w resistor. Poke the wire from the resistor out the end that the
pen tip normally comes out of and form a wee flat loop with the lead on it,
folding the wire back on itself into the casing. When you're happy with the
loop mechanically...take it out and solder your wire to it and solder the
loop to make it into a rigid probe tip. keep the wire around 12" max in
length otherwise it'll get in your way. Once soldered up glue the resistor
into the pen by filling the casing with epoxy. After it's set solder a small
croc clip on the other end of the wire. Voila you have an HV discharge probe
that can reasonably safely be tucked up under the anode cap of any tube. I
know you will all most likely slate me for this post, but the way I look at
these things is that once you go to the trouble of making a widget....it
always comes in handy later...and if you don't make it to begin with, you
always wish you had earlier...anyway another point to note is that depending
on the chassis, a discharge crack to aquadag will frick either, the lopt,
lot, fbt (read the term ya know and like) or the horizontal line transistor
or power supply. I have seen a field stage get burned cos of someone doing
this with a screwdriver, easy fixed on most TV's but monitors...a sore head
in the making...

regards
Alastair

 

[Peter A Forbes]

On Mon, 26 Apr 2004 14:22:06 -0400, Albert <pass@pass.com> wrote:

You better have a 60,000uF 25V capacitor in there, do you?


No, it's a 6500uF at 18 volts. As I said in the original post, the
transceiver sounded chirpy at high power and sometime the PLL would go
out of lock and latch. Although it is a 50 watt output transceiver,
I'm sure the quirky behavior can be attributed to the under design of
the power supply. I'll put a larger cap on the shopping list, thanks
for pointing this out!!

Might be worth quietly checking that the bridge will run into that value

capacitor at start-up without a big bang....

We build big battery chargers and leave linear stuff behind at 200-300watts
output, but one thing we have learned over the years is to pay close attention
to startup surge ratings of the bridge into an effective short circuit
(discharged capacitor) makes life a lot easier )

We ended up rating for surge rather than carry current, usually 4X output
current was OK for continuous operation with switching on/off periodically. 25A
bridges are great for 0-10A, but then we go higher if needed. Does not apply
with smaller capacitors, check the ESR ratings etc.

My 2c worth

Peter
--
Peter & Rita Forbes
diesel@easynet.co.uk
Engine pages for preservation info:
http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

 

[Dave VanHorn]

Might be worth quietly checking that the bridge will run into that value
capacitor at start-up without a big bang....

Put the cap on the regulator output.

Big caps behind the bridge just make the bridge conduction angles very
narrow, and really stress the bridge.

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Terry Pinnell" <terrypinDELETE@THISdial.pipex.com> wrote in
message news:b9cpa0t0q14jc0h03n95290011ma63dl84@4ax.com...

[snip]

to cut to the chase, I'm coming to think that a major part of the
problems I've been having (earlier and now) may be due to these power
NPNs being on the borderline of usability.

[snip]

More important, are my old 2N3055s still OK for this application? Or
showing signs of their age and their likely origin in a 'surplus' bulk
buy?

As has been chronicled here numerous times before, the 2N3055 is the
jellybean power transistor and is often a fallout from some other higher
performance power transistor testing. They may come from the factory as
'surplus', or more appropriately, fallouts or seconds. Or maybe even
3rds of 4ths. Like you have the 2N3773, for example, and ones that
don't make that test end up being 2N3772, and ones that don't make that
test end up being 2N3771, and ones that don't make that test end up
being 2N3055s.

But what's worse, you may buy 2N3055s from different mfgrs and they say
the meet the minimum specs, but one brand may work fine, and another may
oscillate or worse. Mainly because they were intended to be some other
higher performing transistor when they were made. So in answer to your
Q, it seems that the 2N3055 comes from the factory with borderline
specs.

I suggest that you use two that are from the same manufacturer, and
preferably from approximately the same date code.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
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goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
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[Alan Douglas]

I have nearly 100 ft of Belden 1673A, RG 104 teflon dielectric that
needs a new home.

Alan

 

[Mr. 4X]

[AUK, sci.physics and electronics group added. Followups set.]

mitchell_leary@yahoo.com (Mitch Leary) wrote in message
news:6d258eab.0405210321.4319be71@posting.google.com:

Crop Circles are schematics for circuits. Build them and you can
communicate with the aliens. It's been right in front of us all
along. This is not an electrical circuit and thus you don't need
electrical components or a power soure (i.e. batteries). This is
something more along the lines of a psionic type circuit/machine.


Unlike our electrical devices which operate along the electromagnetic
spectrum, the alien devices operate along the "biological" spectrum.
Robert Anton Wilson touched on this possibility in one of his books.
This is why we're not picking up their signals, we're using the wrong
type of equipment.


As a simple experiment, find a book on modern crop circles. Select
one with several circles and draw this on a piece of paper. Position
the fingers of the hand(s) inside the circles. When you hit the right
combination YOU WILL NOW IT IMMEDIATELY. A flood of images and
information will run through your mind. Each crop circle is

So you think that some specially shaped papers - regardless of the paper
type, thickness, the size of the shapes etc. - works as some kind of a
telepathy receiver (through the fingers...)

Can this wacko be even more nutty?

different, many times you'll feel like you're playing Twister with
your fingers.


Some people are better receivers than others, just like some radios
work better than others. A lot of factors play into this newfound
discovery; body chemistry, mood of the person, BELIEF SYSTEM at the
time of the experiment, etc. Just as with a radio or cell phone, your
environment plays a HUGE factor in the outcome.

Keep at it. Persisance pays off.

Together with insanity.

-Leary-

 

Karl Timmermann <timmerk@overridedesign.com> wrote:

Anyone know where to buy a 1 inch electric valve? It needs to be very small
and lightweight, and ideal voltage is 12 volts.

For air, water, hydraulic fluid, something else? What pressure?
Sprinkler control valves come to mind, as to electrically operated
ball valves...

--
William Smith
ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc. www.compusmiths.com

 

Karl Timmermann <timmerk@overridedesign.com> wrote:

I have a binge pump I built for my kayak, and the holes where the water
spits out get water in them from the waves. I need to close this so the
kayak does not flood.

Why not just a one-way check valve? www.mcmaster.com search for check
valve, esp pages 382,383

--
William Smith
ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc. www.compusmiths.com

 

[CBarn24050]

I'm a relatively skilled soldering iron user.

Is it possible to manually solder ICs with pins only 0.5mm apart?

yes it is, a little practice is all you need. Just tack opposite pins to hold
the chip in place, put some flux on the pins and run a small bit, with solder
on, down the line.

 

"Jon" <cathysled@hotmail.com> wrote:

resistance and it's open. So I cut it open and attached is a picture of the
top view and side view of what's remained after I performed a lousy surgery
with a hack saw..

Looks like a wire-wound resistor. Try a local appliance repair place
(not a store), or the manufacturer for a schematic and parts.

--
William Smith
ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc. www.compusmiths.com