audio recording on IC -help wanted

"Wim Ton" <wimton@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:U0Rtb.164$TH6.9@news-binary.blueyonder.co.uk...
I have three speaker wires running just behind sheetrock along a wall in
my
house that have breaks in them somewhere (I believe from the contractor
firing nails through the wires when putting up the sheetrock). Two of
the

One possibilty is Time Domain Reflectometry (TDR)

Succes, Wim
I've looked into this - the only real problem I have is I can't reliably
know how the cable pays out behind the wall - i.e. if I were to figure out
that the break is 10' along the cable, I can't really figure out where the
tenth foot is behind the wall. The cable takes too many turns and is routed
around things.
 
For the wires that are shorted, if the nail is what's causing the short
you could check for continuity from the shorted end to the nails by
tying an ohmmeter to the end of the wire and probing the suspect
nailheads with a needle connected to the other ohmmeter lead. Find the
nailheads with a magnetic stud finder.
I had thought about doing just that, but the stud finder I have doesn't
differentiate between metal and wood, so I can't isolate the nail heads. I
guess from your post there are stud finders that can find just metal, and
ignore wood?

For the wire that's open on both ends, if you can just pull one end out
from behind the wall you'll know how long it is once you get it pulled
out and you'll know about where the break is (in X, anyway). Along
those lines, if you can pull on one of the wires and the other end moves
you might be able to use that wire to pull three new ones and forget
about having to damage the wall.
Unfortunately, the wires are stapled into place and routed around things in
the wall, so I can't pull them out.
 
Are there other ways to do what I'm trying to do? It seems like it
should be
possible.

A cable testing meter that has TDR, such as the Fluke DSP-2000 can
tell you where the break is, bow many feet from the end. Cat5 cable
installers use these, and they can be rented. For more cable info try
the comp.dcom.cabling newsgroup.
Thanks! I'll try over there. The TDR solution may help some - at least to
get a ballpark. The trouble is I can't know, for instance, where the 10th
foot of cable is behind the wall too accurately. The cable routes around
things in the wall and isn't on a straight route. But it would help to know
whether the break is 2 feet or 18 feet along the run, certainly.
 
I am working on some project that works like the Jeopardy Game. What
happens is, there are three teams, with buttons infront of them, and
on each team's desk is a light bulb.
Ash, use an OLD DOS PC, plain switches and LED's wired to the printer
port, and get QUIZBOWL.ZIP at
http://homepages.together.net/~tking/parport.htm
(Scroll to the bottom of the page)...

There can be 2 to 4 teams....

--
Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont
terry@fredking.us
The one who Dies With The Most Parts LOSES!! What do you need?
 
Hi does anybody have a bit more information than what looks like a one page
sales brochure, I got from the Sanken web site, listed below,

Sorry about the mess some people complain about HTML posting.


nError Amplifier ICs (SE series)
Collector-Ground Voltage
VCGO (V)
12
50
150
Absolute Maximum Ratings (Ta=25°C)
Collector Current
Ic (mA)
20
Electrical Characteristics
(Ta=25°C)
Output Detection
Voltage
VS (V)
5.0ą0.1
12.0ą0.2
15.0ą0.2
24.0ą0.2
34.0ą0.3
40.0ą0.4
70.2ą0.8
80.2ą0.8
90.0ą0.8
105.2ą0.8
110.2ą0.8
115.2ą0.8
120.2ą0.8
125.2ą0.8
130.2ą0.8
135.2ą0.8
141.2ą0.8
Operating
Temperature
TOP (°C)
-20 to +125 (TC)
nVariable Voltage Detection Type Error Amplifier ICs
Collector-Ground Voltage
VCGO (V)
150
Absolute Maximum Ratings (Ta=25°C)
Part No.
SE-B3
Collector Current
Ic (mA)
20
Electrical Characteristics
(Ta=25°C)
Output Detection
Voltage
VS (V)
141.2ą0.6
Condition
IIN=4mA, RC=9.1kW
RS=88.7kW
Operating
Temperature
TOP (°C)
-20 to +125 (TC)
Remarks
Low Vs
High Vs
nExternal Dimensions
a. Part Number
b. Lot Number
Forming No.12
(unit: mm)
10.2ą0.2 4.8ą0.2
2.0ą0.1
1.7ą0.2
2.5ą0.1
1.35ą0.15
18.3 6.9
2.5ą0.1
5.8ą0.3
8.8ą0.2
16.0ą0.7
3.0ą0.2
2.5ą0.3 3.0ą0.3
2.5ą0.5
0.65+0.2
-0.1
3.75ą0.1 f
SE a
N b
1 2 3
Part No.
SE005N
012N
015N
024N
034N
040N
070N
080N
090N
105N
110N
115N
120N
125N
130N
135N
140N
Remarks
Variable voltage detection
Gain adjustment possible
 
On Fri, 21 Nov 2003 8:26:08 -0800, DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

The U400 hybrid IC in the Tek 24xx 'scope models is infamous for its short
life.

Has anyone attempted heat-sinking it (if it is not already) and blowing it
with a small fan (a la pentium and PowerPC)?

Just crossed my mind in between random other thoughts...
My understanding was not that it is short-lived, just that when it does go, it's unrepairable.
 
On Fri, 21 Nov 2003 19:44:53 +0000 Mike Harrison
<mike@whitewing.co.uk> wrote:

On Fri, 21 Nov 2003 8:26:08 -0800, DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

The U400 hybrid IC in the Tek 24xx 'scope models is infamous for its short
life.

Has anyone attempted heat-sinking it (if it is not already) and blowing it
with a small fan (a la pentium and PowerPC)?

Just crossed my mind in between random other thoughts...

My understanding was not that it is short-lived, just that when it does go, it's unrepairable.
Apparently it was "short-lived" compared to the rest of the components
in the scopes.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
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John Fields wrote:
On Sun, 23 Nov 2003 10:34:10 -0800, Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, Dark
Remover" <alondra101@hotmail.com> wrote:

Well, the TO-39, which looks identical to the TO-5, will easily handle
7 watts, with a heatsink of course. The TO-39 case has the chip
bonded to the header, so the collector lead is usually welded directly
to the case.

AAMOF RCA made the 2N4036, 40412, 40346, 40347, & 40412 among many
others, all of which were in a TO-5 case and rated for a dissipation
of 7W or greater, in some cases 10W. This _was_ a true TO-5 case.

---
Hogwash. I suggest you get a data sheet for a 2N4036 and take a look at
power dissipation VS case and ambient temp.

Here's one from Motorola

http://212.57.231.17/datasheets/67/OWOSNOVWOP.pdf

and even though they've got the Ta and Tc curves labeled backwards it
might give you a clue. Besides, I don't think the OP mentioned anything
about a heat sink, so even if it _was_ TO-5 instead of TO-92 it would be
operating in an enclosure at a Ta of >25° C, which means he wouldn't
even be able to get a watt out of it.
Well, I don't know anything about the transistors mentioned, but no
doubt TO-5 devices specified for 10W power dissipation at Tc = 25 deg do
exist. Among these are the 2N5320 (NPN, 75V, 2A) and 2N5322 (PNP
complement): the junction-to-case thermal resistances are 17.5 deg/W for
both, and the maximum junction temperature is 200 deg.

Datasheets (SGS-Thomson, 1997) are available at the Dial Electronics
site; the metal case is here called TO-39. Production seems to have been
discontinued recently.

Martin.


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clicliclic@freenet.de wrote:

*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***


John Fields wrote:

On Sun, 23 Nov 2003 10:34:10 -0800, Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, Dark
Remover" <alondra101@hotmail.com> wrote:


Well, the TO-39, which looks identical to the TO-5, will easily handle
7 watts, with a heatsink of course. The TO-39 case has the chip
bonded to the header, so the collector lead is usually welded directly
to the case.

AAMOF RCA made the 2N4036, 40412, 40346, 40347, & 40412 among many
others, all of which were in a TO-5 case and rated for a dissipation
of 7W or greater, in some cases 10W. This _was_ a true TO-5 case.

---
Hogwash. I suggest you get a data sheet for a 2N4036 and take a look at
power dissipation VS case and ambient temp.

Here's one from Motorola

http://212.57.231.17/datasheets/67/OWOSNOVWOP.pdf

and even though they've got the Ta and Tc curves labeled backwards it
might give you a clue. Besides, I don't think the OP mentioned anything
about a heat sink, so even if it _was_ TO-5 instead of TO-92 it would be
operating in an enclosure at a Ta of >25° C, which means he wouldn't
even be able to get a watt out of it.



Well, I don't know anything about the transistors mentioned, but no
doubt TO-5 devices specified for 10W power dissipation at Tc = 25 deg do
exist. Among these are the 2N5320 (NPN, 75V, 2A) and 2N5322 (PNP
complement): the junction-to-case thermal resistances are 17.5 deg/W for
both, and the maximum junction temperature is 200 deg.

Datasheets (SGS-Thomson, 1997) are available at the Dial Electronics
site; the metal case is here called TO-39. Production seems to have been
discontinued recently.
Thanks for confirming my contentions. Seems like many of the TO-39 and
TO-5 case transistors have been replaced by TO-126 or TO-220 devices,
which are like 20 cents in quantities. Metal cases can't compete
against that cheap a price.




--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@
F
o
d
d
e
r

f
o
r

s
t
u
p
i
d

n
o
t

e
n
o
u
g
h

i
n
c
l
u
d
e
d

t
e
x
t

m
s
g
 
Wim Lewis <wiml@underhill.hhhh.org> wrote in message news:<bp74j1$ucv$0@216.39.137.58>...
In article <boum3n$1a8$1@sparta.btinternet.com>,
ellen <shpf.pg@btopenworld.com> wrote:
How about trying the electroluminescent wire that Maplin sells. You should
be able to bend it into any shape or just paint out areas to get the effect
you need.

Don't know about the particular EL wire that Maplin sells, but the EL wire
I've messed with doesn't really like being bent sharply. The outer
conductor is made of very fine wire and breaks easily.
The fix is to wrap a piece of EMC copper tape round the outer part of
the fibre, fold over the little wires and solder to the tape. This
pretty much stops them breaking once the whole thing is heatshrunk or
epoxied in place.

-A

I made a set of Christmas lights for a miniature Norfolk pine a while ago
out of SMD chip LEDs and fine enameled wire (magnet wire). I simply
soldered the wire to the chips' ends by hand (using solder paste and
a small-tipped iron). The effect was pretty good, but the mechanical
stability wasn't; any handling at all would cause the string to break.
That might not be a problem with a dollhouse, or it might be possible to
add some sort of mechanical reinforcement so that the solder joints
don't have to provide the strength.
 
In article <7h6vsvcmledpgjmoeih2sjsfhrgav69rau@4ax.com>,
Bubba Jones <Smelly@hotmail.com> wrote:
I'm looking for a data sheet on the GI UART AY-5-1013

The 6402 appears to be pin for pin compatible, but I would like to
know differences in specs.
Fresh off the scanner (from the GI 1977 databook) :
ftp://ftp.eskimo.com/u/m/mzenier/GI-UART.pdf
about 450k bytes, 14 pages.

Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com Washington State resident
 
Thanks a bunch!

This is much appreciated. I have about 40 of these chips that I
salvaged several years ago.



On Fri, 5 Dec 2003 22:25:49 GMT, mzenier@eskimo.com (Mark Zenier)
wrote:

In article <7h6vsvcmledpgjmoeih2sjsfhrgav69rau@4ax.com>,
Bubba Jones <Smelly@hotmail.com> wrote:
I'm looking for a data sheet on the GI UART AY-5-1013

The 6402 appears to be pin for pin compatible, but I would like to
know differences in specs.

Fresh off the scanner (from the GI 1977 databook) :
ftp://ftp.eskimo.com/u/m/mzenier/GI-UART.pdf
about 450k bytes, 14 pages.

Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com Washington State resident
 
Bubba Jones wrote...
Thanks a bunch!

This is much appreciated. I have about 40 of these chips
that I salvaged several years ago.

Mark Zenier wrote:

Bubba Jones wrote:
I'm looking for a data sheet on the GI UART AY-5-1013

The 6402 appears to be pin for pin compatible, but I
would like to know differences in specs.

Fresh off the scanner (from the GI 1977 databook):
ftp://ftp.eskimo.com/u/m/mzenier/GI-UART.pdf
about 450k bytes, 14 pages.
Indeed, a real blast from the past. P-MOS logic operating
from +5V and -12V, over 300mW, can only go to 20k baud.

BTW, you can better view and print Mark's Acrobat pages if
you use Acrobat's document | crop pages tool. Or if you
only have Acrobat reader, I can send you a cropped file.

Thanks,
- Win

whill_at_picovolt-dot-com
 
In article <bqsl71020k8@drn.newsguy.com>, Winfield_member@newsguy.com
mentioned...
Bubba Jones wrote...

Thanks a bunch!

This is much appreciated. I have about 40 of these chips
that I salvaged several years ago.

Mark Zenier wrote:

Bubba Jones wrote:
I'm looking for a data sheet on the GI UART AY-5-1013

The 6402 appears to be pin for pin compatible, but I
would like to know differences in specs.

Fresh off the scanner (from the GI 1977 databook):
ftp://ftp.eskimo.com/u/m/mzenier/GI-UART.pdf
about 450k bytes, 14 pages.

Indeed, a real blast from the past. P-MOS logic operating
from +5V and -12V, over 300mW, can only go to 20k baud.

BTW, you can better view and print Mark's Acrobat pages if
you use Acrobat's document | crop pages tool. Or if you
only have Acrobat reader, I can send you a cropped file.
Might be better to send him a crying towel. He will probably need it
if he ever loses the neg 12V supply. IIRC, the PMOS decides to self-
destruct if it doesn't have that negative V. I remember some circuits
that used a PNP transistor to turn on the +5V only if the neg 12 was
present.

Probably the reason why most everything changed to the 6402 soon after
they came out. Speed? Back in them days, you couldn't even find an
asynch modem that went faster than 9600! :->


Thanks,
- Win

whill_at_picovolt-dot-com

--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@
 
In article <bqsl71020k8@drn.newsguy.com>,
Winfield Hill <Winfield_member@newsguy.com> wrote:
Mark Zenier wrote:
Fresh off the scanner (from the GI 1977 databook):
ftp://ftp.eskimo.com/u/m/mzenier/GI-UART.pdf
about 450k bytes, 14 pages.

Indeed, a real blast from the past. P-MOS logic operating
from +5V and -12V, over 300mW, can only go to 20k baud.

BTW, you can better view and print Mark's Acrobat pages if
you use Acrobat's document | crop pages tool. Or if you
only have Acrobat reader, I can send you a cropped file.
Ah, the scanner software (Xsane) preserves the image size, but
then the ps2pdf/Ghostscript defaults to letter size paper.
Time to write a script to fix it...

Hmm, that didn't take much.

#!/bin/sh -x
# usage crop.ps2pdf infile.ps outfile.pdf

awk -v outfile=$2 -v infile=$1 -f - <<'xxxeofxxx' $1 | sh -x
BEGIN {
mw = 0;
mh = 0;
}
$1 ~ /^%%BoundingBox/ {
if($4 > mw) mw = $4;
if($5 > mh) mh = $5;
}
END {

printf "ps2pdf -dDEVICEWIDTHPOINTS=%d -dDEVICEHEIGHTPOINTS=%d %s %s\n",
mw, mh, infile, outfile;
}
xxxeofxxx

Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com Washington State resident
 
quoting:
Hey everyone! I wanted to use a few blue LEDs on a home project, but
was discouraged by the high prices everywhere. But finally I found
some cheap blue LEDs online! If anyone is interested, try
www.xxxxxxxxxxx.com at 40cents/ea.! Later...C

Based an a little *evidence*, this is one of those lying spammers that
"found" his own website.


1)His Ip address [67.209.219.21] is located in FL.

2)His website's domain name is registered to a location in FL.

3)His post uses the same typing style as the wesite.

3a) Uses ! more than typical person would at the end of sentences.
3b) Always typed exactly like "LEDs".
4c) Always typed exactly like "$0.40/ea.".

4)Uses the same wording as a "hobbyist" being not so happy "with the price of
blue LEDs" with a "home project".

example:

from http://www.etronicstuff.com/aboutus.html :

"About EtronicStuff.com Thank you for visiting EtronicStuff.com! I am just a
hobbyist who became frustrated with the price of blue LEDs when working on a
home project. If you are like me, you know these prices are quite high. I
decided to search around and find a manufacturer who would sell me a large
quantity for a decent price. In turn, pass these low costs to anyone
wishing to buy high intensity blue LEDs in low volume. Whether you buy 1 or
100, the price will stay the same at just $0.40/ea. plus shipping (USD). I
have talked to many other hobbyist and they all feel that this would be a
great idea!"


5)He already spammed sci.electronics.*

http://groups.google.com/groups?q=%22EtronicStuff.com&filter=0



BUSTED. At least you could have tried.
 
Geez do people still fall for that crap?


In article <rwrCb.199033$do1.93944@twister.austin.rr.com>,
acidcash@houston.rr.com says...
HOW TO MAKE TONS OF QUICK MONEY, GUARANTEED!

I was browsing through news groups just like you are now, and
came across an article similar to this that said you can make
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us, I was curious, so I kept reading. Anyway, it said that you send $1 to each of the 6 names and addresses stated in the article. You then place your own name and address on the bottom of the list and post the article in at least 200 news groups. No catch that was it. So after thinking it over, I thought about trying it. I figured, "What have I got to lose; only 6 stamps & $6, right?" Then I invested the measly $6. Within days I started getting money in the mail. I
figured it would end soon, but the money kept coming. In my first week I made $47. By the second week I had over a thousand dollars. As the weeks went, the money grew. It is certainly worth the $6 investment and 6 stamps! Let me explain how & why it works. Also, make sure you save it to your computer, so you can get the information. Please follow the directions EXACTLY, and thousands of dollars can be yours in weeks. You are in the business of developing Mailing Lists.
Many large corporations are happy to pay big bucks for lists. Here Are The 4 Easy Steps To Success: Get 6 separate pieces of paper and write the
following on each piece of paper: "PLEASE PUT ME ON YOUR
MAILING LIST." Now get 6 $1 bills and place 1 inside of each of the
6 pieces of paper so the bill will not be seen through the envelope
(to prevent theft). Next, place 1 paper in each of the 6 envelopes
and seal them with the $1 bill enclosed. You now should have 6
sealed envelopes each with a piece of paper stating the above
phrase and a $1 bill enclosed in each envelope. What you are
doing is creating a service - THIS IS 100% LEGAL! You are
requesting a legitimate service and you are paying for it. I was a
little skeptical about the legal aspects of it all so I checked it out
with the Postal Service (1-800-275-8777) and they confirmed that
it is legal. Mail the six envelopes to the following addresses:

[1] Mike Collett PO Box 68037 Tucson, AZ 85737
[2] Latrese Branch 1570 Lakeside Drive Prince George, VA 23875
[3] Pamela Marmolejo 1055 Cardiff Way Beaumont, CA 92223
[4] Lea Vigil 5212 Arden Dr. Temple City, CA 91780
[5] Raymond Howe 214 Jones RD., Lot24 Saratoga Springs, NY
[6] Justin Butler 7201 Spencer Hwy. # 251 Pasadena, TX 77505

Now take the #1 name off the list that you see above, move the
other names up (6 becomes 5, 5 becomes 4, 4 becomes 3, etc.) Add YOUR NAME as number 6 on the list. Try to keep this article as close to the original as possible and post your article to at least 200 news groups. All you need is 200, but the more you post, the more money you make! NOTE: You may want to retain every name and address sent to you. This VERIFIES that you are truly providing a service. Your name will be moved up the list geometrically so that when your
name reaches the #1 position you will be receiving Thousands of Dollars in Cash! What an opportunity for only $6, $1 for each of the 6 people listed above. Send it now, add your own name to the list and you're in business. You do not need to retype this letter to do your own posting. Simply put your cursor at the beginning of this letter and drag your cursor to the bottom of
this document, and select copy from the edit menu. Open a blank
notepad and place your cursor at the top of the page. From the
edit menu select paste. Save your new notepad file as a text File, if
you want to do your posting in different settings, you will always
have this file to go back to. Use the Internet and search for various
news groups (forums, message boards, discussions). Visit these
message boards and post this article as a new message by
highlighting the text of this letter and selecting paste from the edit
menu. You are finished and have finished your first posting.
Congratulations! THAT`S IT. All you have to do is post away.
*THE MORE YOU POST, THE MORE MONEY YOU WILL MAKE* MAKE
CERTAIN ADDRESSES ARE CORRECT

Assume you get a 7.5% return: When you do 200 posts, 15 people
send you $1.00 Those 15 do 200 posts, 225 people send you $1.00
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Thousands of people all over are joining the Internet and reading
these articles every day, JUST LIKE YOU right now. So you can turn
 
SDL wrote:
Hi
I have inserted the TPA032D02DCA in a recent project
the schematic it's identical to the TPA032D02DCA EVB schematic that I have
found in Texas web site. I have had care to exactly use the same components
of the EVB.

On the circuit I see the measures below:

Pin 1 = 2.8V
Pin 2 = 2.8V
Pin 3-7-12-13-20-27-36-37-46-47 = 0V
Pin 8-16-9-21-28-40-33 =12V
Pin 17-32= 5.6V
Pin 22 = 24.4 V
Pin 24 = See in attach
Pin 25 = See in attach
Pin 42= 0V
Pin 41= 0V
Pin 48 = See in attach

I have connected two 8ohm speakers, the power supply is 12V 5A
The temperature of TPA032D02DCA is of around 28° C (I hope that this doesn't
mean overheating!!)
Unfortunately, after having sent a signal in input, I don't succeed in
listening to any sound.
Salvo

Name: Pin24.BMP
Pin24.BMP Type: Windows BMP Image (image/x-bmp)
Encoding: x-uuencode

Name: Pin25.BMP
Pin25.BMP Type: Windows BMP Image (image/x-bmp)
Encoding: x-uuencode

Name: Pin48.BMP
Pin48.BMP Type: Windows BMP Image (image/x-bmp)
Encoding: x-uuencode
This is not a binaries newsgroup. This belongs on
news:alt.binaries.schematics.electronic A lot of news providers strip
off the graphics, so very few people will see the entire post.

Also, a lot of people won't open a BMP file. You should convert them
to GIF or JPEG to make them smaller.
--
8 days!


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
I have pulled apart a Brother a while ago and it had a 40 pin DIP ROM. The
one on mine was a 23C4000, which is a 8/16bit 4Mbit ROM. I think its EPROM
equivalent might be 27c040. From looking around there are not that many
40pin DIP ROMs or EPROMs. Maybe yours is one of those? There is a bit of
info here:
http://www.armory.com/~rstevew/Public/Pgmrs/EPROM/index.html
The easiest way to start identifying the pins of the EPROM is to trace the
ground and 5V lines, which should be more easily identifiable and checking
against the pinouts available. Maybe the address or data lines from the MCU?
The Am29030 supports 8 or 16bit bus to the ROMs I think.
Another consideration is that from looking around there are a couple of DIY
programmers out there but none I saw supported 40pin DIP so either you have
access to a professional one or you have to modify an existing design which
is a lot of work.
http://www.zws.com/products/epromr2/
http://www.mikeg2.freeserve.co.uk/eprom/eprom.html
http://batronix.com/electronic/circuits/eeprommer.shtml
To check data or address pins using continuity tester stick on lead onto say
A0 on MCU and with the other run along all pins on the (EP)ROM until you get
a short cct indication from you tester. Power and gnd lines are usually
worked out by examination of the PCB - ground is usually the trace that
takes the most area or runs along the side of the board. Since you know the
MCU, just look up its power and ground pins and work from them.

I have posted this only to sci.electronics.components rather than
cross-posting all over.

"DaveC" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:0001HW.BC1058BF011081B0F0080600@news.individual.net...
On Thu, 25 Dec 2003 7:39:42 -0800, Lewin A.R.W. Edwards wrote
(in message <608b6569.0312250739.5c8bcde1@posting.google.com>):

If it's from a dot matrix or inkjet printer, then it's almost
certainly a microcontroller (or ASIC). If it's from a laser (and I'm
guessing it is - and he wants to upgrade some lesser printer with more
fonts or PostScript or something),

It's an Apple LaserWriter 16/600 PS-J. The "J" means it was a custom ROM
for
the Japanese market, having Kanji fonts installed. I want to replace this
with the US spec ROM. I have been unable to find the replacement ROM
service
part anywhere, so copying is the only solution for me.

(These printers were so bulletproof that it's very hard to find dead donor
printers which I can scavenge a ROM from...)

then it's 99% likely to be a x16 mask-ROM.

For example...?

I haven't seen EPROM equivalents for these, though I believe they *did*
exist.

Look at the board to identify power and ground connections.

OK, I can find power and ground pins easily.

The board probably also has a 68000-class processor on it,

AMD 29030 (RISC) running at 25 MHz

you should be able to
do a simple continuity check to get data and address pins.

How to ID data and address pins via continuity? I can remove the ROM (it's
socketed), if that will help identify its pins.

Thanks,
--
DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group
 
Good links. I will add another: www.beldynsys.com


On Fri, 05 Sep 2003 11:34:48 -0400, William P.N. Smith
<wpns@compusmiths.com> wrote:

Many of the parts I'm looking at lately have been {only,more easily}
available in SMD, is there a breadboarding {material, process,
technique} that I'm missing for mocking up circuits using them? I'm
from the old school of thru-hole breadboarding, but there mst e
something more modern without makgin PC boards...

Thanks!
 

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