audio recording on IC -help wanted

This is TO-220 case and I`m not sure what kind of component is this, Fet or
standard PNP/NPN transistor. It is used inside car for blower speed
regulator 12V / DC. Thanks for any help.
 
GS wrote:
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:eoidnU2FHLVbacbUnZ2dnUVZ_rLinZ2d@earthlink.com...


If the National Health System was any good you would be committed for
poor mental health.


Free isn't the same as compulsory...not yet anyway...

They are still softening you up to accept it.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.
 
"JosephKK" <quiettechblue@yahoo.com> wrote:

of What you can and cannot post. We are Americun's shit. We killed
innocent
Americunts... what a nice twist of words. Need to write that one down
for appropriate use someday.

--
Programmeren in Almere?
E-mail naar nico@nctdevpuntnl (punt=.)
 
Obviously another cage rattled.

"JeffM" <jeffm_@email.com> wrote in message
news:d4e23aef-9f0a-4b5c-a974-065dabeb7f3d@i7g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
Jaygo wrote:
I have listed below part of the rules for my subscription to my NG
provider
(Berlin Uni) http://news.individual.net/
John

So, some lazy, clueless buffoon puts up a simplified definition
and you see that as a license to spam.
I wouldn't say the techies at Berlin University are entirely clueless.

It is inadmissible to use this server to post SPAM.
(To spam Usenet means to send many identical
or nearly-identical messages separately to a large
number of Usenet newsgroups.)

That's cute, but it only covers a tiny fraction of what is spam.
I did say part of the rules.

For starters, here's what ebay has to say on the matter:
http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:GlWDaaVQapQJ:pages.ebay.co.uk/help/newtoebay/usenet-policy.html+*-users-may-not-post-on-Usenet-groups+zzz+suspend-the-user's-eBay-account+violates

I am not a spammer

YES, you have been told *repeatedly* that you ARE a spammer.
Repeatedly? by whom ? I have been called many things during my thirty
odd years military service but none ever mentioned spammer. It actually
sounds pythonesque. Before anyone replies I know what spam was.

Your advertisements are NOT welcome in this DISCUSSION group.

It is clear that you are aware of *marketplace* groups,
http://groups.google.com/groups/search?enc_author=VBxQURoAAAAgAnnmzcJny0pMvjAvc3gBOgultvhkVwhfUahTtv1_ew&scoring=d&filter=0&num=100
Big deal, I enjoy NGs of course I'm aware of the various groups, if you
took time to read some of the threads you will not find a mention
of spammer.

yet you have made a selfish decision
to post ads to groups that obviously do NOT welcome them.
Not that obvious! I looked down previous threads and saw others
listing items for sale/swap/auction.

It is EASY to recognize the groups you seek.
They have in their names words like
forsale marketplace ads biz

Other groups, *MAY* tolerate ads
BUT YOU HAVE TO **READ** THE GROUP to see what is appropriate.
It is obvious that YOU DID NOT.
You are obviously just another drive-by spammer
Are you completely devoid of using terminology other than
that akin to me being a mad axe murderer. Although I do feel as
if I'm driving by and there are dogs barking at my hub caps for
no apparent reason.

who doesn't give a shit about this group
and sees it as yet another blank space to plaster an ad.

To put the capper on this, Mike told you about the proper group for
this
and he pointed to the charter for this group
which EXPRESSLY forbids the crap you pulled.
Yes I agree, he did, after I had inadvertantly posted the link in
the first message in this thread.

You have continued to resist doing the right thing
by conceding your selfishness and/or ignorance.
I notice you deleted the text from the previous thread
I do not suffer from a lack of "savior faire" either, here is some
of the original text from the previous thread:-

"I'm sure you know, as well as I, there are ways of speaking up and speaking
out and it was the original tone that had me at the short end of the bit."

Here is the charter again with the pertinent parts highlighted:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics/msg/13651a897337a7a9?q=Charters+misc.industry.electronics.marketplace+Discussions+Advertisement-*-*+only-advertise+sci.electronics.components-Integrated-*-*-*+individual-parts+*.*.not.a.forsale.group+zz-zz+Discussion
As a reminder here again is what happened:-

I inadvertently posted a link to some vintage electronic components
that I have for sale on eBay.I thought it may interest some of the
sci.electronic.components readers. I had briefly looked down previous
threads and saw others listing items for sale/swap/auction and -
as it now transpires - assumed my link would be OK.

The response from Mike Terrel was to change my link to
something with "spammer" in the text that generated a 404.
It is this I take exception to.

If my error had been pointed out in a civilised way - I
would have apologised profusely for not only the post
but also my idleness in not reading the NG charter.

John
 
Test equipment needed, please quote , used with deep discounts
prefered

Agilent 8922F
IFR 1500S
Agilent 8163a
Agilent 81633a
Agilent 81618a
Agilent 81623a
Agilent 8703b
Keithley 2400

Kind Regards,
Ben Youngblood


http://www.networkinghardware.net



DCR is your one stop solution for Datacom, Networking & Telecom
hardware, new and used at 60% to 90% off list.

We buy & sell 3com, ADC/Kentrox, Adtran, Ascend/Lucent, AVAYA,
Cisco, Enterasys/Cabletron, Extreme, JUNIPER NETWORKS, Larscom,
Lucent PSAX, N.E.T. Promina & IDNX, Nortel, Cisco/Stratacom,
Newbridge,
Verilink, Nortel Networks, TELLABS and more...

Over 5,000 items in stock. Please visit out our website @

http://www.networkinghardware.net

SOME INVENTORY ON-LINE. PLEASE CALL
OR REPLY FOR UPDATED OR INCOMING INVENTORY

posted by Benny Youngblood

test equipment needed, please quote by Ben "Benny Youngblood
networkinghardware.net http://www.networkinghardware.net


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On Feb 26, 3:00 am, "michael nikolaou"
<michaelnikolaou_remove_...@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi

I have a 12 v relay driving an large 220 volt AC relay . Across the contact
of the driver relay i placed one RC snubber circut (27NF with 100 R
resisitor in series) to help with some spikes that were influencing the low
voltage driver circuits.
The driver circuit is able to detect  mains zero crossing and fire the
driver relay at an angle i choose .
From what i read the best point  to switch off the power relay is at zero
crossing . I did that and i show a large spike up to 1 KV  at the relay
contact followed by a decaying 500hz waveform to 0 volts . After some
experimentation the best point came exactly when switching off at the peak
of the mains voltage .At this point there is smooth decaying waveform  to 0
volt after 5 periods of    500 HZ  but no overshoot. The relay presents no
arcing.  If i remove the snubber and make the experiment the best place to
switch is zero crossing but i also see large SHARP spikes up to 500 Volts
Peak.
My question is
 The switching with snubber must be made at zero crossing or at the peak of
an ac voltage waveform ?
What is the behaviour of the circuit ?.
As i understand any large  spikes can harm the X2 capacitor i'm using so
what is the best operating practise ?.

Any help will be appreciated

 Michael
Hi, Michael. First off, you should spec a 12V relay that's made to
handle inductive loads (you can see a HP rating). This type of relay
has contacts which open more quickly, and are farther apart when
open. A small standard relay might not even open up far enough to
stop an inductive arc at line voltage.

Next, when using a relay to drive a relay, you have to be aware of the
delay-on-make, which can be several milliseconds, especially for
larger relays. That might help explain some of the curious results
you're getting. Turn-on delay can be affected by wear and aging. It
also varies from unit to unit, even in relays with the same part and
lot number. Trying to get this kind of timing accuracy might be the
wrong way to go.

It might be better to take a look at suppressing the arc, which you've
already started to do. Here's an intuitive way to start. First off,
remember your basic goal: you want the voltage across the contacts to
rise just slowly enough so the contacts can pull away without
sustaining an arc. That's all.

Remove the cover from the driving relay so you can see the contacts.
Next, find the current rating of those contacts, and use Ohm's law to
find a resistor which will result in about half that current.

For example, if you have a 220VAC load, and your relay can handle
10A,:

R = 220V / 5A = 44 ohms

Choose a 47 ohm, 1 watt resistor here (carbon comp is best). Now get
a selection of self-healing AC line-rated capacitors, and switch the
inductive load with the 47 ohm and C snubber directly across the load,
repeating and increasing the cap value until the contact arcing
disappears, or at least is minimized. Without knowing anything about
your 220VAC relay, it sounds like your 0.027uF cap might be on the
small side.

Note that ITW Paktron makes a series of Quencharc snubbers that you
can just plug in, which makes selection a snap. They're one-piece,
epoxy-encapsulated units, and are very easy to use.

http://www.paktron.com/pdf/Quencharc_QRL.pdf

If all else fails, remember that physical distance is also helpful.
Do what you can to place the arcing contact as far away as possible
from sensitive circuitry.

Good luck
Chris
 
Hello list , we are looking for following test equipment, used w/
deep
discounts preferred.
Thanks in advance,
Ben Youngblood
networkinghardware.net
Tektronix tds2014b
Rohde Schwarz cts55
Agilent 11945a
ENI 550l
Fluke 5200a
Amplifier Research 200l
Marconi 2955b
Agilent 8703b
Microtel MSR904A
Agilent 8485a
Microtel MSR904A
Marconi 2955b 3
Agilent 8703b 1
Anritsu 68077b
Anritsu 68077c
Anritsu 68247b
Agilent 8722a
Agilent 8722b
Agilent 8722c
Agilent 8722d
Agilent e8362a
Agilent 54845a
Tektronix tds694c
Lecroy wp960xl
Agilent 8564e
Agilent 8574a
Agilent e8267d

Kind Regards,
Ben Youngblood

http://www.networkinghardware.net

DCR is your one stop solution for Datacom, Networking & Telecom
hardware, new and used at 60% to 90% off list.

We buy & sell 3com, ADC/Kentrox, Adtran, Ascend/Lucent, AVAYA,
Cisco, Enterasys/Cabletron, Extreme, JUNIPER NETWORKS, Larscom,
Lucent PSAX, N.E.T. Promina & IDNX, Nortel, Cisco/Stratacom,
Newbridge,
Verilink, Nortel Networks, TELLABS and more...

Over 5,000 items in stock. Please visit out our website @

http://www.networkinghardware.net

SOME INVENTORY ON-LINE. PLEASE CALL
OR REPLY FOR UPDATED OR INCOMING INVENTORY

Ben "Benny" Youngblood networkinghardware.net
 
What chris writes really makes sense. I am adding my extra's here too.

On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 04:43:44 -0800 (PST), Chris <cfoley1064@yahoo.com>
wrote:

On Feb 26, 3:00 am, "michael nikolaou"
michaelnikolaou_remove_...@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi

I have a 12 v relay driving an large 220 volt AC relay . Across the contact
of the driver relay i placed one RC snubber circut (27NF with 100 R
resisitor in series) to help with some spikes that were influencing the low
voltage driver circuits.
The driver circuit is able to detect  mains zero crossing and fire the
driver relay at an angle i choose .
From what i read the best point  to switch off the power relay is at zero
crossing . I did that and i show a large spike up to 1 KV  at the relay
contact followed by a decaying 500hz waveform to 0 volts . After some
experimentation the best point came exactly when switching off at the peak
of the mains voltage .At this point there is smooth decaying waveform  to 0
volt after 5 periods of    500 HZ  but no overshoot. The relay presents no
arcing.  If i remove the snubber and make the experiment the best place to
switch is zero crossing but i also see large SHARP spikes up to 500 Volts
Peak.
My question is
 The switching with snubber must be made at zero crossing or at the peak of
an ac voltage waveform ?
What is the behaviour of the circuit ?.
As i understand any large  spikes can harm the X2 capacitor i'm using so
what is the best operating practise ?.

Any help will be appreciated

 Michael

Hi, Michael. First off, you should spec a 12V relay that's made to
handle inductive loads (you can see a HP rating). This type of relay
has contacts which open more quickly, and are farther apart when
open. A small standard relay might not even open up far enough to
stop an inductive arc at line voltage.
Very true!

Next, when using a relay to drive a relay, you have to be aware of the
delay-on-make, which can be several milliseconds, especially for
larger relays. That might help explain some of the curious results
you're getting. Turn-on delay can be affected by wear and aging. It
also varies from unit to unit, even in relays with the same part and
lot number. Trying to get this kind of timing accuracy might be the
wrong way to go.
There also is a relay-off delay. And the RC snubber makes the turn-off
delay even worse as the current will run a little longer. Expect
something here between 5 to 20 milliseconds.

It might be better to take a look at suppressing the arc, which you've
already started to do. Here's an intuitive way to start. First off,
remember your basic goal: you want the voltage across the contacts to
rise just slowly enough so the contacts can pull away without
sustaining an arc. That's all.
What you need to know is the current running through the contacts, and
the voltage spike you want to allow. What a snubber does is store the
energy of the coil in the capacitor. The resistors "eats" this up as
the capacitor discharges over the load. The voltagespike at turnoff
(aasuming an empty capacitor at that moment) is the load current *
resistor. So if you have R= 100, C= 47n, I=2A, you get a voltage spike
of 100*2 = 200 volt even before your capacitor charges. The load
inductance with the current give the stored energy: Q=L*I=C*U. So the
capacitor size should match the load inductance, otherwise you get a
high voltage there too. The capacitor will for example be loaded to
100 volts with a Q = 27n*100V = 2,7 uCoulomb. An inductance that
contains this would be L=Q/I= 2,7uC/2A = 1,35 uH. But the resistor
already "eats" up a lot, so the voltage will be lower. When you turn
off larger motors, transformers, inductors (the coil of a large
relay!), the capacitor must match the load to keep voltages limited.

The prevent oscillations, resistance values must not be too low,
ususally between 30 to 100 Ohm is ok. For large inductive loads I
would not take 100 Ohm but 47 Ohm as normal value (see below what
Chris wrote), you contact must ve able to handle that. The capacitance
could be anything you want, for larger devices 220n, 470n etc.

Remove the cover from the driving relay so you can see the contacts.
Next, find the current rating of those contacts, and use Ohm's law to
find a resistor which will result in about half that current.

For example, if you have a 220VAC load, and your relay can handle
10A,:

R = 220V / 5A = 44 ohms

Choose a 47 ohm, 1 watt resistor here (carbon comp is best). Now get
a selection of self-healing AC line-rated capacitors, and switch the
inductive load with the 47 ohm and C snubber directly across the load,
repeating and increasing the cap value until the contact arcing
disappears, or at least is minimized. Without knowing anything about
your 220VAC relay, it sounds like your 0.027uF cap might be on the
small side.
Also very true: the RC snubber also gives a current peak when you turn
ON the relay. Nice thing about inductive loads is that the current
does not rise fast, so the load and RC current do not occure exactly
at the same time (also depending on RC, where a smaller R gives a
higher rush-in current but also a better timing).

The peak where the snubber works is at turning the relay OFF again.

What I often use is 47 Ohm to 100 Ohm with 100 nF.

Note that ITW Paktron makes a series of Quencharc snubbers that you
can just plug in, which makes selection a snap. They're one-piece,
epoxy-encapsulated units, and are very easy to use.

http://www.paktron.com/pdf/Quencharc_QRL.pdf

If all else fails, remember that physical distance is also helpful.
Do what you can to place the arcing contact as far away as possible
from sensitive circuitry.

Good luck
Chris
You need TWO RC networks: one across the driving relay, one across the
large relay, and do not forget the diode (or also RC) across the coil
of the driving relay. So you have 3 things that need attention.

Do not forget that long cables (also with resistive loads like lamps)
act as inductance. 10 meters or more may also need a RC!

Regards,
Pieter
 
On a sunny day (Tue, 13 Nov 2007 21:34:26 -0800) it happened JosephKK
<joseph_barrett@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
<WMv_i.7835$3Z2.7110@nlpi069.nbdc.sbc.com>:

Yes, electret microphones.


** NO !! All microphones.

Bullshit, carbon mikes, throat mikes (or whatever you English care
to call these), dynamic mikes, and a ton of other ones, have much
higher output.

Phil aside, low Z dynamic microphones have maximum outputs on the
order of 10s of mV, magnetic phonograph pickups have full amplitude
ratings of a few mV. This means if there is a quiet passage the
output is in the 10's of uV range, and the noise floor is at least 40
dB below that (fractional uV). This is one of the reasons that high
futility (Hi-Fi) used to be very hard.
Yes true, especially if you are in the Australian outback with
a dynamic mike listening for ants moving ;-)

As to the dynamic mike, I remember getting into an argument with
somebody, but what it came down to was: the person told me the dynamic mikes
were mainly used for on stage vocals, where it is used close to the
food opening, and the membrane is a bit heavy, so it probably will not
react a lot to the ant noises, and should not pick up anything further
away.
Capacitor mikes, and electrets, have a much lighter membrane, and are more
suitable to pick up those ant noises.
There were also ceramic mikes, usin gsome crystal, Ronette is
what I remember, those had quite a bit of output voltage too.
Same difficult to move membrane.
4.5mV/ľb at 1KHz
http://www.xs4all.nl/~odemar/microphones/ronette-mics.htm

I have used the Ronettes :)
 
Joerg wrote:
That would be a start, as long as the device can still be programmed
after you've chucked the bootloader.
With a programmer you can. Obviously, once the bootloader is gone you
can't program through the '952's onboard serial port.

IAP can increase the risk of flash corruption but not being familiar
with the NXP devices I don't know by how much. Nowadays most uC can
write flash from within a application though.
Well, you'd have to be able to, to reflash-and-switch :)

Writing to Flash with the IAP facility is a multi-step process so there
is some protection against runaway code.

--
Gordon S. Hlavenka http://www.crashelectronics.com
Vote Ron Paul in 2008! Call 866-737-5066
 
On Wed, 21 Jan 2009 14:24:30 -0300, YD <ydtechHAT@techie.com> wrote:

Late at night, by candle light, "David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com
penned this immortal opus:

On Jan 21, 11:05 am, YD <ydtech...@techie.com> wrote:
Late at night, by candle light, Arlowe <bare.ar...@gmail.com> penned
this immortal opus:



krw used his keyboard to write :
In article <mn.a5307d9188b78d0d.90...@gmail.com>,
bare.ar...@gmail.com says...
krw explained on 19/01/2009 :
On Sun, 18 Jan 2009 19:35:00 +1100, Arlowe <bare.ar...@gmail.com
wrote:

on 16/01/2009, Paul supposed :
On Jan 15, 2:19 pm, "David L. Jones" <altz...@gmail.com> wrote:
"Paul" <energymo...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:54c2d7cf-c506-4647-b272-17d608c8854a@x8g2000yqk.googlegroups.com...

I'm testing a new DMM I purchased, AM-240 by Amprobe. It claims *over*
100Mohm impedance in 400.0mV mode.

Nothing new there, many DMM's have selectable "high impedance" or "HI-Z"
modes on the mV range. e.g. the Fluke 87.

I've looked at the specs of ~ 30 DMM's today, include a lot of
fluke's, and never seen anything near 14Gohms impedance. Keithley has
an electrometer that's probably higher. Most DMM's are around 10Mohms
(not gigaohms) input impedance. Don't you think 14 gigaohms is a bit
high?

PL

The evil thing about Voltmeters with very high impedance is they will
read induced voltages that analog meters wouldn't.
It makes a voltmeter useless for checking for live circuits in a
crowded panel.

A craftsman never blames tools for his failures. Hackers, on the
other hand...

If you work with electricity you had better know the limitations of
your tools or you will find them...the hard way.

That is certainly true (though perhaps your heirs are the ones who
will find you), but doesn't modify my statement. In this case, the
tool *can* be used as long as the one using it knows what he's
doing.

Ok....everything seems to pass right over your head....
I pointed out a limitation of a DMM and you seem to be inferring that I
am somehow a hack who blames his tools...
BTW> I am not a "craftsman" I am an electrcian..
You don't do what I do for as many years as I have without knowing what
the fuck you are doing.

What's wrong with using a hi Z voltmeter in a live panel?

It's not the right tool for the job.
A meter which gives you a false reading with bad (or no) contact is a
BAD idea in dangerous high voltage/high energy circuits.
That is why proper meters with low impedance (Kohms) modes exist for
the job, e.g. Fluke 113, 110 series, 289 etc.


The circuits are loaded, so any bad contacts will certainly affect the
reading. Which is the way I like it. Any funny readings, move up to
the next point in the line and check there.

I do know better than to measure an unloaded line without sticking
some suitable load across it.

Anyways, AIUI, this started with a meter with Hi-Z in the mV range,
most DVMs use a 10M or 1M divider at higher ranges.

- YD.

Most modern meters are high Z on nearly every range.
 
Hi,

I have an IC with a 23-Pin SIP package (http://
eportal.apexmicrotech.com/mainsite/pdf/EX.pdf). The problem is that
the available package is vertical, and I need it horizental.
To solve this, I am thinking about, first, slodering the IC, then
bending it down. However, I am afarid that some of the pins might ge
disconneted, and the IC is expenisve.

Does somebody have some experince with this?

Thanks,
JJ
 
Chris Jones wrote:

You idea sounds sensible, but the wattage of the lightbulbs might need
some experimentation because the filament resistance is not constant with
different supply voltages, and there will be some voltage dropped across
the transformer.
I just did a experiment.
200 Watt 220 volt lightbulb in series with primary side.
Gives 43.3 volt on primary connectors.
And 4.6 ampere secondary, this is 50 percent overload.
Temperature went up to 60 degree Celsius and was still rising.
It is late, 01:00 at night, so i ended the experiment.

You could get the same amount of heat into the transformer windings
without having to dissipate as much heat in the light bulb if you start
with a lower AC supply voltage (from another transformer), and then limit
the current using a low voltage light bulb (e.g. from a car indicator
light), adjusted to get the same current as you already calculated above.
I will think about it, and see if i have suitable trafo.

What about this idea.
I have 4 trafos of 34.6 Volt 3 ampere.
All have to be dried.
What if i connect the secondary of the first trafo to the secondary of the
second trafo ?
And then the primary of the second trafo to the primary of the third trafo.
Then the secondary of the third trafo to the secondary of the fourth trafo.
And the short circuit the primary of the fourth trafo.
Oeps.. :)
Is this crazy ? To unpredictable ?
Would be nice if it worked, could dry 4 trafos at the same time.

If you intention is to make the transformer get quite warm then you might
have to exceed the rated current, which will be safe to do as long as you
monitor the temperature carefully.
Yes, good suggestion.


--
hihihi is the username, wanadoo the domain, nl the country.
 
On 6/28/07 8:34 PM, in article 5ejcu3F38831jU1@mid.individual.net, "Phil
Allison" <philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote:

"Eeysore Fucking CUNTHEAD "


** See the word " impending " ????

Need to look up a dictionary - do you fuckwit ?

Was in all the news papers.

http://www.environmentalleader.com/2007/03/09/eu-to-ban-inefficient-light-bulb
s/

http://www.reuters.com/article/scienceNews/idUSL0966634620070309



YOU TOTALLY ASD FUCKED PILE OF SHIT !!!!!!





......... Phil
I absolutely agree. What was the final clue?
 
I've been asked to design a low pass filter, but, it's to work over the
range -40C to +65C (maybe +75C). The frequencies of interest are around
2Hz so it looks like I'll need capacitors in the range 1uF to 4u7. Oh,
and it's meant to be small so surface mount components would be best
(but I'd be happy to sacrifice that requirement if necessary).

What's the best kind of capacitor to use here? I don't think the usual
dielectrics - X7R, etc - are characterised to -40C and I'm sure they
will be 20% or more out by that temperature. Are there more exotic
capacitors available, perhaps from non mainstream suppliers, for this
kind of application, that might reach 1uF?

Thank you

Nemo
 
I know this all can easilier and better be done these days,
Its a niche market semiconductor makers do no longer
address as there isn´t the market volume they nowadays dream
of.
There are neither modern small speech recognition ICs ( apart
perhaps from Sensory ). Nor are there speech synthesizers like
the digitalker that can serve as coprozessors to 8 bit
controllers and are supplied with prefabricated vocabulary
by the manufacturer.
In theory one can clone the oldtimers with modern micro-
controllers. But the required R&D high and there are no
obvious distribution channels.
SP0256 & CTS256 replacements seem to exist:
http://www.speechchips.com/shop/category.aspx?catid=3
But as said i am sceptical if text-to-speech really fits
typical embedded applications.

It seems you added your board picture twice, instead of the
description... No big deal as I have never heard of this chip.
Thats it:
http://www.embeddedFORTH.de/temp/hm2007.pdf
Available for $25 ( i got them via ebay ):
http://www.imagesco.com/speech/speech-recognition-technology.html

It's a wealth of information!
Make shure to store it, the files are only temporary on the website.

MfG JRD
 
On Wed, 21 Jan 2009 17:22:31 +0000 (GMT), Stuart <Spambin@argonet.co.uk>
wrote:

In article <MPG.23e106a07e05d19698986b@news.individual.net>,
krw <krw@att.zzzzzzzzz> wrote:
If your
field strength is enough to saturate the innards there isn't much
that can be done.

Doesn't need to get into the innards directly, you can screen that, but
you've got a pair of leads forming an aerial and most likely a diode at
the junction of the test lead and the DVM socket.
The antenna I get. A diode? Are you sure that you are familiar with
modern multi-meter construction?

A low impedance input
attenuator will load that down to something insignificant compared with
what you are measuring.
Low Z meters are dumbed down so that dopes can artificially SUPPRESS
what they term as "noise" when reading power sources in an EMI rich
environment, such that they can take "reasonably reliable" readings on a
power source. They are NOT made for getting true reading on small signal
sources in any way shape or form. The same thing can be accomplished by
changing the sample rate or chop the input and average. The same
canceling can also be gotten by twisting the meter leads together. Note
that nearly all "sense line" attachments are of the twisted pair variety.
There is a reason for that, and it is not so that the wires stay bundled
together.

The Fluke Low Z model has the capacity to REMOVE the low Z shunt from
the meter's lead-in circuit, giving the user back an actual, accurate,
high Z meter.

Placing a shunt across your voltage measurement cannot be done on a
source where such a low impedance will load the source. Either way, you
get a flawed reading.

High impedance metrology is akin to actually getting the test data
without touching or modifying the circuit. As we all know, this is a
very hard thing to accomplish. High Z meters are a GOOD thing. Anyone
that thinks they are not needs their head examined.
 
"Jaygo" <jaygo999BREATH@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:62i81mF22jed0U1@mid.individual.net:

As a reminder here again is what happened:-

I inadvertently posted a link to some vintage electronic components
that I have for sale on eBay.I thought it may interest some of the
sci.electronic.components readers. I had briefly looked down previous
threads and saw others listing items for sale/swap/auction and -
as it now transpires - assumed my link would be OK.

The response from Mike Terrel was to change my link to
something with "spammer" in the text that generated a 404.
It is this I take exception to.

If my error had been pointed out in a civilised way - I
would have apologised profusely for not only the post
but also my idleness in not reading the NG charter.
Not that Winfield Hill would need or even care about any approval from me,
but I'm with him on this one. It's time the charter was changed, it's a
practical way out of this. I've not been here as long as the charter has, but
that doesn't make my point invalid.

We often see want-to-buy posts about components here, and those too could be
considered as invalid market-based postings, but are tolerated because they
relate to the kind of posts that seek info or alternative suppliers for
parts. This is ok because most of us know that money is as much a part of
practical decision making as Vbe or Vf or Hfe...

I think it cuts both ways. If a person wants to sell a small number of
surplus parts, or to barter, or notify people of a private seller's eBay
listing, either theirs or someone else's, I think that should be ok here if
it's clearly specified to electronic components and nothing else, and
provided that such sales are not the primary business of the poster, i.e.
they are not just a parts shop. eBay is increasing the divide between private
and business sellers, and private ones might lose business if they can't draw
attention from those most likely to care.

I have no interest in selling anything here, my problem is only that this
argument about such sales begins to dominate the group, so it's obviously
important here. If people could do it here and keep it out of s.e.d etc, then
it's better than them having to try to compete with wider and more irrelevant
postings for other sales of complete assemblies of components.

Lastly, I have a kill-filter on the sneakers and other bullshit ads I see
here, there's no point in bloating it with rules against every one-off
private component seller as well. I let them pass without thought, or even
look at their postings. My whole argument is based on this. There IS a
difference in these postings for component sales from small or private
sellers that makes it worth changing the charter for. No doubt some will try
to push the envelope but I think there is enough human activity here to take
each case as it comes, on its own merit or lack of it.
 
Electronics is the field of manipulating electrical currents and
voltages using passive and active components that are connected
together to create circuits. Electronic circuits range from a simple
load resistor that converts a current to a voltage, to computer
central-processing units (CPUs) that can contain more than a million
transistors. The following indices and documents provide a basic
reference for understanding electronic components, circuits, and
applications.

http://electronicstopics.blogspot.com
 
"Lostgallifreyan" <no-one@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:Xns9A50E8103ACA4zoodlewurdle@140.99.99.130...
"Jaygo" <jaygo999BREATH@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:62i81mF22jed0U1@mid.individual.net:

As a reminder here again is what happened:-

I inadvertently posted a link to some vintage electronic components
that I have for sale on eBay.I thought it may interest some of the
sci.electronic.components readers. I had briefly looked down previous
threads and saw others listing items for sale/swap/auction and -
as it now transpires - assumed my link would be OK.

The response from Mike Terrel was to change my link to
something with "spammer" in the text that generated a 404.
It is this I take exception to.

If my error had been pointed out in a civilised way - I
would have apologised profusely for not only the post
but also my idleness in not reading the NG charter.


Not that Winfield Hill would need or even care about any approval from me,
but I'm with him on this one. It's time the charter was changed, it's a
practical way out of this. I've not been here as long as the charter has,
but
that doesn't make my point invalid.

We often see want-to-buy posts about components here, and those too could
be
considered as invalid market-based postings, but are tolerated because
they
relate to the kind of posts that seek info or alternative suppliers for
parts. This is ok because most of us know that money is as much a part of
practical decision making as Vbe or Vf or Hfe...

I think it cuts both ways. If a person wants to sell a small number of
surplus parts, or to barter, or notify people of a private seller's eBay
listing, either theirs or someone else's, I think that should be ok here
if
it's clearly specified to electronic components and nothing else, and
provided that such sales are not the primary business of the poster, i.e.
they are not just a parts shop. eBay is increasing the divide between
private
and business sellers, and private ones might lose business if they can't
draw
attention from those most likely to care.

I have no interest in selling anything here, my problem is only that this
argument about such sales begins to dominate the group, so it's obviously
important here. If people could do it here and keep it out of s.e.d etc,
then
it's better than them having to try to compete with wider and more
irrelevant
postings for other sales of complete assemblies of components.

Lastly, I have a kill-filter on the sneakers and other bullshit ads I see
here, there's no point in bloating it with rules against every one-off
private component seller as well. I let them pass without thought, or even
look at their postings. My whole argument is based on this. There IS a
difference in these postings for component sales from small or private
sellers that makes it worth changing the charter for. No doubt some will
try
to push the envelope but I think there is enough human activity here to
take
each case as it comes, on its own merit or lack of it.
A voice of reason at last (and a timelord), To be honest I am to blame and I
accept I should have perhaps studied the NG a lot closer when I would
have realised that listing electronic components has been a long running
saga
inciting a lot of name calling, bitchiness and uber reaction.

I also accept that I threw the teddy out the pram in annoyance but I will
not allow anyone to accuse me of being a spammer / troll etc.

I have already had a few private emails of support and questions via ebay
regarding
shipping some of the components to North America. These components
are from the house of a deceased old family friend. He was a radio ham and
electronics enthusiast in the 50s/60s. So what was I supposed to do throw
the components out?.

Anyhow best of luck with your campaign (sorry I don't know your name) I
suppose sometimes these things just have to burn themselves out.

Regards

John
 

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