audio recording on IC -help wanted

[Arfa Daily]

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-1F8EFA.20515718022008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...

In article <3ecp85-rgv.ln1@remote.clifto.com>,
clifto <clifto@gmail.com> wrote:

Michael Kennedy wrote:
"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote...
Let's be clear that the United States has less stringent regulations.
AIUI, commercial (as opposed to consumer) boards for sale in the U.S.
may still use leaded solder.

Hmm.. I didn't realize that there were any regulations on leaded solder
here
in the USA. I just thought we got consumer grade crap that was
manufactured
for sale in the EU that happens to be ROHS compliant.

Ditto. I'd love to know about any laws banning leaded solder in the USA
so I can get a jump on starting my new multimillion-dollar recycled home-
electronics business.

ah-so. Apparently my confusion on this issue hasn't worn off yet.
*Somewhere* I thought I heard that consumer grade electronics had to be
RoHS compliant, but it might have been a dream...

I do know that California has some RoHS restrictions. I also know that
several of our customers who market globally require us to comply with
EU RoHS assembly standards so that they can market worldwide without
trying to keep track of which unit has lead and which one doesn't.

So it's likely that even stuff manufactured in the U.S., for sale in the
U.S., has the feared lead-free solder in it.

I saw an article the other day that said that Arnie had personally blocked
some lead-restrictive potential legislation in his capacity as governor of
ca. Ah I've just found it. Don't know if it will make it through the
newsgroup server system, but here it is copied below ...

California vetoes ROHS-expansion bill
Edited by Suzanne Deffree -- EDN, 1/10/2008
California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger has vetoed an assembly bill that
would have more closely aligned California’s ROHS
(restriction-of-hazardous-substances) law and regulations with the EU
(European Union) ROHS directive. The bill, AB 48, would have expanded
California ROHS to include all electrical and electronic equipment, as
opposed to its current requirements for “covered electronic devices,” which
include nine video-display devices that the state’s Department of Toxic
Substances Control regulations list. The bill also aimed to require that all
electrical and electronic equipment that manufacturers sell in California as
of Jan 1, 2010, comply with EU ROHS stipulations for lead, mercury, cadmium,
and hexavalent cadmium.

Schwarzenegger sent the bill back to the California legislature in the fall,
stating in a memo that the bill’s approach “is largely unworkable and
instead of the benefits it seeks to accomplish, could ultimately result in
unintended and potentially more harmful consequences.”

The governor noted the exemption language for spare parts and refurbished
products, claiming that, as written, the bill would make many electronic
products prematurely obsolete and force their retirement years earlier than
necessary. The California legislature is expected to try to pass this or a
similar bill again in 2008.




Arfa

 

Dear All,
I am looking for a bank of 6 interlocking latching PCB mounted
DPDT push button switches to repair a 20 year old TV (Sony KV2000 mark
II). These are for the channel change push button assembly -- ie. on
pressing one button any others previously pressed-in pop out. The pin
pitch of the switches seems unusual. It is 4.0mm as best as I can measure
it. I have searched the web but without success. Does anybody know where
I might get the parts for such a switch assembly?

Many thanks
Tom Crane.

Ps. The email address in the header is just a spam-trap.

--
Tom Crane, Dept. Physics, Royal Holloway, University of London, Egham Hill,
Egham, Surrey, TW20 0EX, England.
Email: T.Crane at rhul dot ac dot uk

 

[Peter A Forbes]

On Thu, 25 Oct 2007 17:03:18 -0400, "robb" <some@where.on.net> wrote:

i am working on an old mid 80's circuit board that has some
original 2200 uF/ 63V electrolytic caps (size of a C-cell) plus
some others and was just wondering when one should just replace
such a creature ?

says made in W-Germany "Elkorauh" if it makes a diference ?

should i remove and test them (maybe stress them ?) or just leave
them alone (i.e. fix broken things)
is there a life expectancy for electrolytics ?

thanks for help,
robb

We work on a shelf life of 10 years before needing reforming, assuming optimum
ambient temp etc etc.

In service on continuous operation about 20 years before we replace.

We do refurbs on our older 30V switch tripping batteries and chargers, and we
replace all the electrolytics and rectifiers, and the small transformer as well.
Most of these come in when the batteries are at end of life, usually 7 years or
so.

Bigger systems tend to be less of a problem as the caps are bigger and better
quality.

Our preferred vendor was Philips/BC Components, but we are now using Rifa/Evox
and BHC.

Peter
--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

 

[Mike]

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 14:50:38 -0500, "Michael Kennedy"
<Mikek400@remthis.comcast.net> wrote:

Hmm.. I didn't realize that there were any regulations on leaded solder here
in the USA. I just thought we got consumer grade crap that was manufactured
for sale in the EU that happens to be ROHS compliant.

As 99% of electronics that consumers buy originates in places other
than in the USA you'll end up with exactly the same Chinese, Korean
and Japanese crap that RoHS has forced on Europe, it might have some
RoHS components, it might have lead free solder but it will have what
the production plant has to hand and what stickers they have. You CAN
pay for proper quality control but it costs. Produce it within your
own borders and you might end up with something that will last, but on
the downside it will nearly always cost ten times as much as the
import.

It is impossible to get it through thick politicians heads that
solidly built equipment with 60/40 solder and replaced every 10-20
years is much better for the environment than stuff that barely makes
it into the consumers home before going completely tits up.

I'm still using the same amp and turntable I bought in 1980, the same
CD player I bought in 1987, the same main TV I bought in 1989 and the
same portable TV I bought in 1980. The VHS Video I bought in 1983 was
only recently retired with the purchase of a Digital Terrestrial Hard
Disc Recorder. I doubt it will last 10 years let alone 25.

Other than a few caps, the odd semi and a few dry joints, they haven't
really needed any major work. I reluctantly threw out a couple of
17" monitors last week - down the dump there was a huge pile of
discount shop brand TV's that looked at the most a couple of years
old.


--

 

[jakdedert]

Kevin G. Rhoads wrote:

Showing that Arnold is not just another pretty face. Implementing RoHS
as mandated by the EU for solders may actually cause the release of greater
amounts of toxins into the environment than use of traditional lead-tin
alloys. There have been studies that address this issue, and the "benefit"
of EU-style RoHS is far from clear and certainly not unalloyed (pun intentional).

So EU-style RoHS regulation for solder:
1) results in poorer quality products
2) may actually worsen the environment relative to what would be with use of lead-tin
Sounds like typical politco-think. Jump too soon on some bandwagon because it sounds
good, then refuse to even look publically at the evidence that perhaps it was a mistake.
Just quietly grant exemptions to pressure groups with enough lobbying clout or soft
money ...

Politicians, Bah Humbug. (And, yes, I vote; not just complain.)


Arfa Daily wrote:
snippage
Schwarzenegger sent the bill back to the California legislature in the fall,
stating in a memo that the bill’s approach “is largely unworkable and
instead of the benefits it seeks to accomplish, could ultimately result in
unintended and potentially more harmful consequences.”

Arfa

Agree completely with the above. IMM, the problem is not lead content
of equipment in use, but what happens to it after useful life. I assume
the original intent of the legislation was the same, although I've not
followed either the issue or the thread till now.

In that vein, the greater issue is that there are so many things being
disposed of, and disposed of irresponsibly.

Were it the case, that consumer electronics were not so 'disposable',
the problem would be much less dire (if indeed it is so, even now). How
many of us here--who have sniffing solder fumes daily for 40 or more
years--have any significant amount of it in our systems? I would guess,
little more than the population as a whole.

If things were made to last and be repairable and/or upgradeable...and
finally *responsibly* disposable/recyclable; we wouldn't be in this pickle.

jak

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:40Fuj.3551$IG1.2124@bignews9.bellsouth.net...

Kevin G. Rhoads wrote:
Showing that Arnold is not just another pretty face. Implementing RoHS
as mandated by the EU for solders may actually cause the release of
greater amounts of toxins into the environment than use of traditional
lead-tin
alloys. There have been studies that address this issue, and the
"benefit"
of EU-style RoHS is far from clear and certainly not unalloyed (pun
intentional).

So EU-style RoHS regulation for solder:
1) results in poorer quality products
2) may actually worsen the environment relative to what would be with use
of lead-tin
Sounds like typical politco-think. Jump too soon on some bandwagon
because it sounds
good, then refuse to even look publically at the evidence that perhaps it
was a mistake.
Just quietly grant exemptions to pressure groups with enough lobbying
clout or soft
money ...

Politicians, Bah Humbug. (And, yes, I vote; not just complain.)


Arfa Daily wrote:
snippage
Schwarzenegger sent the bill back to the California legislature in the
fall,
stating in a memo that the bill’s approach “is largely unworkable and
instead of the benefits it seeks to accomplish, could ultimately result
in
unintended and potentially more harmful consequences.”

Arfa

Agree completely with the above. IMM, the problem is not lead content of
equipment in use, but what happens to it after useful life. I assume the
original intent of the legislation was the same, although I've not
followed either the issue or the thread till now.

In that vein, the greater issue is that there are so many things being
disposed of, and disposed of irresponsibly.

Were it the case, that consumer electronics were not so 'disposable', the
problem would be much less dire (if indeed it is so, even now). How many
of us here--who have sniffing solder fumes daily for 40 or more
years--have any significant amount of it in our systems? I would guess,
little more than the population as a whole.

If things were made to last and be repairable and/or upgradeable...and
finally *responsibly* disposable/recyclable; we wouldn't be in this
pickle.

jak

Ah, but thats not how the world thinks these days.. Especailly in America.
People want new stuff all the time. Look at cell phones and TVs. I hear in
parts of the country people throw away perfectly good CRT TVs because they
are not thin and flat!?!? I wish I could get my hands on a nice 32-36" CRT
TV that someone is upgrading. I don't like these new display types because
they are almost all Wide screen and therefore distort the picture or have
huge bars on each side of the screen. The picture quality increase of HDTV
is neglible from a sutiable viewing distance unless of course you are using
it as a computer monitor.

Mike

 

[michael nikolaou]

can you be more specific about the sense resistor . My circuit creates 500
micosecond pulse at every 50 hz zero voltage crossing.
At this pulse edge i activate relay considering turn-off / off delay to
calculate the peak voltage so 0 current for my inductive load .
Do you have something different in mind?
"Sjouke Burry" <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnlll> wrote in message
news:47c44d7e$0$25500$ba620dc5@text.nova.planet.nl...

michael nikolaou wrote:
Hi

I have a 12 v relay driving an large 220 volt AC relay . Across the
contact of the driver relay i placed one RC snubber circut (27NF with 100
R resisitor in series) to help with some spikes that were influencing the
low voltage driver circuits.
The driver circuit is able to detect mains zero crossing and fire the
driver relay at an angle i choose .
From what i read the best point to switch off the power relay is at zero
crossing . I did that and i show a large spike up to 1 KV at the relay
contact followed by a decaying 500hz waveform to 0 volts . After some
experimentation the best point came exactly when switching off at the
peak of the mains voltage .At this point there is smooth decaying
waveform to 0 volt after 5 periods of 500 HZ but no overshoot. The
relay presents no arcing. If i remove the snubber and make the
experiment the best place to switch is zero crossing but i also see large
SHARP spikes up to 500 Volts Peak.
My question is
The switching with snubber must be made at zero crossing or at the peak
of an ac voltage waveform ?
What is the behaviour of the circuit ?.
As i understand any large spikes can harm the X2 capacitor i'm using so
what is the best operating practise ?.

Any help will be appreciated

Michael


Dont switch off at zero voltage, but at zero current.
So monitor across a small sense resistor, and wait for
zero across that.

 

[online.offers09@gmail.com]

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But, if come out a bit away from the word – complexity, there is a lot
these latest gadgets do for us. With wider screens and a increased
number of pixels, we have better picture quality; with better emphasis
on acoustics, we have better sound quality, with directories on the
telephone themselves, we have better induction of list of callers,
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technology, the better the life is. Less time is consumed making us
available for our family and work.

http://www.homeshop18.com/shop/u/y/c-Electronics/Home_Online-clI_2-cI_913-

 

[Didi]

On Sep 26, 2:46 am, Joerg <notthisjoerg...@removethispacbell.net>
wrote:

....
.... Design -> layout -
production. No breadboarding at all.

Come to think of it, I have not used any breadboarding for my designs
either last 20 years or so... I had stopped breadboarding for some
time back then when SMT came in and made breadboarding impractical
anyway .

....
You must have overlooked something there. OE should be an input
only - must be held low for the drivers to be open - the drivers on
the 16 data pins, that is. Drive it high and all get tristated.

Not quite. Quote "When the output-enable (OE) input is low, all outputs
are placed in the high-impedance state. To ensure the high-impedance
state during power up or power down, OE should be tied to GND through a
pulldown resistor; the minimum value of the resistor is determined by
the current-sourcing capability of the driver."

Low is tri-state. Then further down, quote: "The TXB0104 is designed so
that the OE input circuit is supplied by VCCA."

Oh I thought you were referring to the x245, I just don't know that
TXB0104 thing, my mistake.

Didi

------------------------------------------------------
Dimiter Popoff Transgalactic Instruments

http://www.tgi-sci.com
------------------------------------------------------
http://www.flickr.com/photos/didi_tgi/sets/72157600228621276/

Original message: http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.design/msg/4f9c2278d0270a7f?dmode=source

 

[Michael Black]

NoSp (nospam@no.spam) writes:

I have a PCB with a PS/2 keyboard connector. The only problem is that it
uses a (standard size) 5-pin DIN female connector for some strange
reason, while all PS/2 keyboards I've come across use 6-pin mini DIN
connectors.

So I was wondering if it's possible to unsolder the 5-pin female DIN and
replace it with a 6-pin female mini-DIN, or is the pin placement and
spacing completely different?
(I know that there are adapter-connectors available, but I'd rather
avoid it in this case).

Make an adaptor. Or open the keyboard up and wire in a cable from
some other keyboard that has the mini-Din connector on it. Make
sure to look up the pinouts on the two connectors to get the
signals right.

Oh wait, you want to change the connector on the board. Get a
mini-Din female connector, and just wire it to the point where
the current connector is, you don't even need to remove the old.
Again, check the pinouts to get it right.

Of course, it's not PS/2 unless it's min-DIN.

On the other hand, the only difference between the PS/2 keyboard
and the AT keyboard that came before it was the connector.

However, the original IBM PC keyboard used the larger DIN
connector, but the keycodes were different, so you can't use
those with equipment that came later. There was a transition
period when the keyboards came with a switch to go between
the original keyboard and the AT keyboard, though I've also
seen older keyboards where the switch was inside the case, and
no easy way to change it without opening the case; I assume
those were old stock put in newer casing, at a time when the
demand for switchable keyboards had disappeared.

Michael

 

[panfilero]

ok, basically I want to turn on and off an analog switch wirelessly.
The range I need is very short... maybe around 20ft. And I need a
transmitter as small as possible, and hopefully can run on a small
battery (like a key fob and a watch battery). The transmitter only
needs to be able to send 1 command to the reciever which would in turn
tell my analog switch to open... I don't care how big the reciever
is.... and this setup needs to be very responsive so that if someone
taps the button on the transmitter side 10 times in 1 second, the
reciever can open the switch 10 times in 1 second... very minimum
delay, unpercitable... instant! I only want the switch to open while
the button is pressed at all other times the switch should be
closed....

anyway, that's basically it.... can anyone make any suggestions or
point me in the right direction as far as where I could find a
reciever and a transmitter that would fit my criteria? I imagine...
its a pretty simple/basic application... but I know nothing about
reciever/transmitters....

much thanks!

 

[Arfa Daily]

"jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:XKGuj.104662$L%6.54490@bignews3.bellsouth.net...

Michael Kennedy wrote:
snip

I wish I could get my hands on a nice 32-36" CRT TV that someone is
upgrading. I don't like these new display types because they are almost
all Wide screen and therefore distort the picture or have huge bars on
each side of the screen. The picture quality increase of HDTV is
neglible from a sutiable viewing distance unless of course you are using
it as a computer monitor.

Agree about HD quality. In any case, it's only as good as the source, and
my cable system introduces some pretty serious artifacts and noise into
the analog line. Digital might be better if I had it. IMO, everyday HD,
when I've seen it, has been distinctly underwhelming. I've seen some HD
monitors, connected directly to the source--which were almost stunning.

Check your local Craigslist for CRT monitors and TV's. I see them every
day...especially the big ones. Take along a couple of friends if you find
one, however. They are HEAVY!

jak
Mike
On a recent trip to Vegas, I called into the Sony shop in Caesar's mall, to

have a look at the latest offerings and see if they were any different your
side of the pond. There was a huge - 42 maybe even bigger - LCD screen
running HD from a Blu Ray DVD player, and for the very first time with any
flat screen that I've seen, I have to say that it was absolutely stunning.
It was like looking at the very best quality cinema display. It was actually
showing a clip from Pirates 3. But the problem is that whilst these
digitally created and displayed pictures are lovely at native resolution,
when you try to watch 'normal' broadcast TV on them, they look perfectly
dreadful. I don't know about over there, but here, at the moment, there is
little 'broadcast' HD, so if you want to see such a TV working at its best,
then it's got to be, for the most part, from an HD video source. For mainly
this reason, I am currently sticking with my 34" CRT Tosh, which gives a
pretty much faultless display on any content. I am looking forward to SED
screens becoming commercially available, as I have read that these give the
best of both worlds, with an extremely 'CRT-like' picture.

Arfa

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Peter Hucker wrote:

On Fri, 26 Dec 2008 19:33:33 -0000, krw <krw@att.zzzzzzzzz> wrote:

In article <op.umr889dw4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, none@spam.com
says...
On Thu, 25 Dec 2008 21:17:35 -0000, William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

But the Duracells were lasting only 6 months.
They're cheap smoke alarms.

That's pretty bad. I've been using leftover Toshibas, and they last at least
a year.

I bought 6 smoke alarms at once, so I went for cheap ones. 99p on ebay I believe.

Oh, *that's* a smart move. Expected though.

I did of course test them. They detect smoke perfectly well.

I suppose you waved a smoking parrot under each one?


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.

 

[ian field]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:468BF2D2.5B0339F3@earthlink.net...

ian field wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:468BB728.11622F9@earthlink.net...
ian field wrote:

"Straw Man" <straw@man.orq> wrote in message
news:127ic2.5re.19.1@news.alt.net...
Don't let your doggies wonder off onto Phil Allison's property you
will
never see them again.

Well he was raised by dingoes!


??? They didn't do a very good job of it, now did they?

Why do you think he's on meds?!


I think they should start giving him the real medicine, not sugar
pills.

They give him real meds - its just an ongoing struggle to manufacture meds
strong enough for Phil!

 

[Joerg]

Adrian Jansen wrote:

Joerg wrote:
John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 17:21:55 GMT, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 16:37:33 GMT, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:


We are pretty much capped and beaded out already on this one. It
helps, but it ain't enough.
In the signal path?

Yes, and also in the supply path.


Mail me the schematic and layout, and I'll do some hand-waving.


Then I'll get shot

I already did the convincing session (thou shalt not split grounds
etc.). The layout is going to be pretty good and with some extra
shield cans and stuff I am sure we can make it work. But no matter how
much filtering there comes a point where something without a b-e
junction would be kind of nice. This is an app where a cell phone
right next to the unit is something to be reckoned with. Almost like
good ole mil stuff.

Just an observation:

These tiny Bluetooth headsets seem to get away with this sort of stuff.
I have one which happily works without any audible interference with
the cell phone sending Bluetooth data , and of course its own radiation
at 8-900 MHz, with the phone effectively right on top of the earpiece.
And its all in a plastic moulding.

It's ok for simple audio stuff. But we have to extricate signals in the
uV region.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

 

[bz]

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:x8Luj.2093$ab5.1102@newsfe1-win.ntli.net:

"Michael Kennedy" <Mikek400@remthis.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:Zd6dnSQZP7kiqCbanZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com...

"Tim Shoppa" <shoppa@trailing-edge.com> wrote in message
news:e6238341-886b-46f6-8862-756c7f39a0f8@m23g2000hsc.googlegroups.com..
. On Feb 18, 5:11 pm, clifto <cli...@gmail.com> wrote:
Michael Kennedy wrote:
"Smitty Two" <prestwh...@earthlink.net> wrote...
Let's be clear that the United States has less stringent
regulations. AIUI, commercial (as opposed to consumer) boards for
sale in the U.S. may still use leaded solder.

Hmm.. I didn't realize that there were any regulations on leaded
solder here
in the USA. I just thought we got consumer grade crap that was
manufactured
for sale in the EU that happens to be ROHS compliant.

Ditto. I'd love to know about any laws banning leaded solder in the
USA so I can get a jump on starting my new multimillion-dollar
recycled home- electronics business.

For residential plumbing, lead solder has been illegal in the US since
1988 or so.

Tim.

Well there is lead solder in my house and I drink the water. No lead
poisoning yet..

Mike

Many old houses over here still have lead pipework feeding them with
water. Certainly, the house that I lived in and drank the water in for
many years as a kid, had lead pipes. Leaded solder was banned here some
years ago for 'open' pipework systems, but as far as I know, there was
no such restriction for 'closed' systems such as central heating. Lead
is not soluble in water anyway,
.....

http://www.lenntech.com/elements-and-water/lead-and-water.htm

Under normal conditions lead does not react with water. However, when lead
comes in contact with moist air reactivity with water increases. A small
lead oxide (PbO) layer forms at the surface of the metal. When both oxygen
and water are present, metallic lead is converted to lead hydroxide (Pb(OH)
2)
[unquote]

Some other interesting info in the above cited article.















--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[Mook Johnson]

I have a appliction that needs something like a 2n2907 pnp but could use a
lower VBE on than the 2907. Anyonw know of a transistor that has low VBE
when collector currents in the 500mA range (saturated)?

thnaks

 

[Paul Hovnanian P.E.]

Eeyore wrote:

"Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote:

Eeyore wrote:

Now, only a little while back I said I never breadboard, I go straight
to pcb.

This one's different though. The client wants to do the layout as part
of a larger scheme and I want to be double sure of stability in practice
as opposed to simulation because if he messes up, I can show mine
working fine.

So, who is responsible for seing to it that the production version of
this gizmo will actually work?

The ultimate client. They just want a circuit.

I used to love that sort of thing when I was back at Boeing. The H/W
contractor would build something and 'throw it over the wall'. If
anything didn't work, they'd just say, "You can fix it in the software".

;-)

--
Paul Hovnanian mailtoaul@Hovnanian.com
------------------------------------------------------------------
From the moment I picked your book up until I put it down I was
convulsed with laughter. Some day I intend reading it.
-- Groucho Marx, from "The Book of Insults"

 

[Roger Hamlett]

"MuffinMan" <AaronKreider@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1182430994.814693.27330@g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

I'm developing a product that will have a very small LCD (or other
comparable display)... We are planning to do a segmented display.
(Size 1.5"x1")

It's required that the LCD work over the temperature range of -40C -
85C... I have not seen any LCD's that go down to -40C.

I don't have enough power to use a heater. I have 21mW available for
my micro, some analog cicuitry, some comm's circuitry, and the LCD.
So the LCD has to operate on minimal power.

Is this possible...? What's the lowest temperature anyone has seen a
display rated to?

Thanks...
The problem is your power consumption...

The lowest power LCD's, are the traditional passive designs.
Unfortunately, these are also amongst the worst for low temperature
performance. Basically the update slows as the liquid crystal nears
freezing. The lowest temperature rated LCD's I know, support -40C, but
required more power than your total available, being TFT designs,or FSTN
designes based on polysilicon. Other low temperature displays working down
to your requirements, use other tehnologies (LED, VFD etc.), which all
need more power...

Best Wishes

 

[Bob F]

"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:12i6ve.ckg.17.1@news.alt.net...

On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 06:38:08 -0700, Bob F wrote:


"J.B. Wood" <john.wood@nrl.navy.mil> wrote in message
news:f6lcti$8p4$1@ra.nrl.navy.mil...
Hello, everyone. I'm seeking the subject replacement lamp for a
handheld combination incandescent/fluorescent flashlight that I've
had for a number of years. Other than the fact that my unit has a
red case and a white fluorescent lamp, the unit is identical to
that
at

http://www.24hours7days.com/Science/iScience/Property_Protection_Kit1.jpg

These vendors don't stock replacement TL-3 bulbs for these units.
The bulb footprint is identical to the familiar #222 but I need
one
that works on 6 volts. There is no manufacturer or bulb number
stamped on the bulb other than the working voltage. Apparently at
least GE at one time made a special TL-3 bulb, #244, with the
following ratings: 6V, 0.25A. I think this is the bulb I need but
I
have not located one as of yet. Any help will be greatly
appreciated. Thanks for your time and comment. Sincerely,

Ever consider googleing "TL-3 bulb"?

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=+TL-3+bulb

Bob

Where specifically is the bulb the OP wants? I couldn't find it.

http://www.bulbs.com/Light_Bulbs/results.aspx