audio recording on IC -help wanted

On Sep 10, 11:21�am, Paul <energymo...@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm try to figure what the offset voltage temp drift for the Ina116P
op-amp,

Ina116P datasheet:http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina116.pdf

At the bottom left side of page 5 is a chart. Looks like there's an
appreciable chance of getting an op-amp that near 20uV/C drift! �I
would like to build an electrometer that has extremely low input bias
current and low drift, but that kind of drift seems far to much. If
it's 20uV/C and a gain of 1000 then it's 20mV drift per C, correct?
I'm more used to op-amps like the AD8551, which has a typical drift of
0.005uV/C.

AD8551 datasheet:http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/Data_Sheets/AD8551_8552_8...

I appreciate any help or advice.
Paul
What exactly is an "electrometer"?
 
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On Tue, 13 Jan 2009 18:10:52 +1100, Franc Zabkar
<fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> put finger to keyboard and composed:

On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 11:31:14 +0100, "Sylwester Łazar"
goalpropl@alpro.pl> put finger to keyboard and composed:

We are looking for such connector as here:
www.alpro.pl/5pins.jpg
It is like PC UL power cord plug, but with 5 holes instead of 3.

I could be wrong, but I'm thinking that I once saw something along
these lines for a portable TV. Three pins would have been for AC and
two for DC.
Not the same plug, but possibly a similar function:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/KA910/KA910_Psu.jpg

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
Stuart wrote:
In article <a6WdnWJH0dGW6NLUnZ2dnUVZ_u-dnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
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and it's minimum fuss and effort.

We never had "real" trees anyway, my wife used to hate the job of
hoovering up the dropped needles every day.

I haven't put up a tree since I left for the US Army at 20.


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Archimedes' Lever wrote :
On Tue, 27 Jan 2009 19:44:14 +1100, Arlowe <bare.arsed@gmail.com> wrote:


You do not know anything about working with mains power...stick with
your radio shack electronics kit.


I have worked with mains power, and I have made 400kV power supplies,
asswipe. I know more about HV than a punk fucking sparky retard like you
ever will.
big fucking deal... I have a mate who worked for GE for 30 years
building transformers.
He had no electrical background at all, he just assembled them...

most likely, just like you.
If you are such a hot-shot, then prove it.



BTW> I am laughing *at* you...

I love it when wankers like yourself loose control.
 
I want to build my own time machine.But for that purpose, I need a
flux capacitor.

Where can I buy a flux capacitor???
 
Arlowe wrote:
Rich Grise laid this down on his screen :
On Sun, 18 Jan 2009 19:35:00 +1100, Arlowe wrote:

The evil thing about Voltmeters with very high impedance is they will read
induced voltages that analog meters wouldn't. It makes a voltmeter useless
for checking for live circuits in a crowded panel.

Then pick the right voltmeter for the job, duh.

Hope This Helps!
Rich

No shit...
exactly my point. A voltmeter with a high impedance is not the tool to
use to test for live circuits....

That depends on what you consider a live circuit.


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There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.
 
Has anyone used a waterproof potting compound that is very lightweight but
durable?

I have found a urethane-based compound from www.jgreer.com that looks pretty
promising but it doesn't state how much it weighs. Has anyone used this
material before? Does it peacefully co-exist with electronics?

Any insight into places to check would be appreciated.


Dave
 
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at $280 for each board , i think not .
the whole setup to tune your car about $1400 plus , u buy the equipment , u
do the tuning and u still have to spend $280 EACH time u want to tune a car
, EVEN THOUGH u OWN the tuning hardware.
mark k


"Gary Tait" <classicsat@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Xns996493C767A98wonkynillmailnil@142.77.1.194...
"mark krawczuk" <krawczuk65@dodo.com.au> wrote in
news:468d0e11$0$41303$c30e37c6@lon-reader.news.telstra.net:

it looks like the eprom wont start the car unless its plugged on to
the pal security board, and from what i have found out so far , the
, eprom looks for teh security board every so often and if it aint
there the car wont run.

any body know how i can go about modifying the data so teh car will
run without the pal board ?
any links, ideas etc...

Short answer, buy another security board form the vendor you obtained the
first from. They are using the PAL to protect their copyright to the
modified code therein.
 
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Eric Smith wrote:
Joerg <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> writes:
Are you sure about that? It would not be too useful to publish data
for a situation that is impossible in practice. I mean, an opamp needs
to be soldered down before it can do anything.

It *is* useful, and nothing about it is impossible in practice. It's
difficult to characterize the heat conduction through the lead frame,
and not including it in Theta(ja) makes the formula more conservative.
If you do the design based on Theta(ja), you'll have a slight bit of
additional margin.

Anyhow, I'll go with single amps in SO8 then. More conservative, I don't
want anything to get hot.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

"gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam.
Use another domain or send PM.
 
"Mad Scientist Jr" <usenet_daughter@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1181161183.427062.209780@q19g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
I am looking for a way to make certain components (such as pots &
trimmers, 1/4" phono jacks, switches, or other sub-circuits) "plug and
play" for various prototypes + experiments. Similar to the breadboard
concept but more permanent. Headers like those found on computer
motherboards for connecting power LEDs are small enough where the
leads match the components I'm using and the pins on the motherboard
are just the right size to plug into a solderless breadboard, but are
more durable than breadboard jumper wires.

snipped for speed.

Wire wrap at RadioShack ?
http://www.me.umn.edu/courses/me2011/robot/wrap/wrap.html
or in Britain,
Maplins
 
Dieter Wiedmann wrote:

Joerg schrieb:

In that case, if it is a Bosch design then the OP should be able to
buy that hybrid from Bosch.


Bosch does not sell such parts to consumers.
Not a good thing IMHO. It precludes the discovery of secondary
applications and thus potential "upside" sales.

At least when I lived in Germany this company was very good about
selling spare parts. I even got motor brushes for a 1950's kitchen
blender there.


You are talking about two differnt companies, this is
Bosch-Siemens-Homeappliances, a joint venture of Bosch and Siemens. And
nowadays you will be lucky to get spare parts after more than 10 years.
Also not good. Once people find that out they tend to think that they
might as well buy everything at Walmart then. Why pay more if there
isn't a tangible benefit?

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
 
I recall from my hobbyist days that high-voltage capacitors can keep a
charge for a significant amount of time, especially if they are cut-
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say, periods of a week or more. This would be helpful to bridge gaps
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I know that there are potentially problems with dielectric breakdown
and leakage. On the plus side, such "batteries" could be charged and
discharged very quickly, as needed, and without the complications
involved in conventional batteries using chemical electrolytes.
 
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