WD-40 to clean electric contacts?

I have found that LPS2 works even better, but it is bit re expensive and hard to get locally.

There is one type of pot it does bother though, the sliders with the nylon looking sliders. (under the knobs) It froxe up the ones in a Soundcraftsman EQ for me, nut then so did everything else. The (looks like) nylon they is is probably very porous. And nothing will fix it, all you can do is wait until it all evaporates out. Only thing I can figure it that it swells that particular material. The nice thing is I do not see that type of plastic or whatever used in very much.

The only Caig product I like is Deoxit because that is actually a reducer. For lubing afterward, WD or LPS or even white lithium grease.

The one thing I noticed about WD40 is when used to clean the old mechanical tuners in TVs it would detune them until most of it evaporated, LPS2 was much better for that application.

Thing is, Deoxit is so expensive that its use is only warranted for certain things.

That's what I have found over the decades. that these things are safe on ALMOST everything. Acetone on the other hand has to kept away from cabinet parts and other plastics. The main thing I used it for was to clean PC boards after a coolant leak in an RPTV. You might never have had to do that, those were not as popular other places from when I hear. The US loved them, especially the later ones that had a good picture. After he coolant started a few fires, manufacturers started putting gutters in them to keep it off the PC boards. It is not conductive but when exposed to voltage it becomes conductive as well as corrosive. it gets as bad as that shit that leaked out of the electrolyics.
 
jurb...@gmail.com wrote:

------------------------
The one thing I noticed about WD40 is when used to clean the old
mechanical tuners in TVs it would detune them until most of it
evaporated, LPS2 was much better for that application.

** WD-40 and LPS2 are near identical products, same ingredients in the same percentages and both use CO2 as a propellant.

It is *NUTS* to spray any oil bearing fluid onto RF circuitry - oil has a much higher dielectric constant than air. It therefore adds capacitance to any coil, wiring, PCB pattern or tuning gang it lands on.

The correct procedure with rotary TV tuners was to apply some WD-40 to a small piece of paper which is then wedged between the moving contacts while the tuner is turned. This cleans up the contacts nicely while preventing any oil getting on the RF coils.

Anecdote 1:

I once had a customer who decided to fix his FM tuner by spraying WD-40 all over the PCB and tuning gang. Afterwards, the stations had moved half way across the dial.

It took me a over an hour hour, using various solvents to get the oil off everything and put them back where they were. A tiny bit of WD-40 on the bearings of the gang fixed the noise he has been getting.

Anecdote 2.

Folk who run RC cars and boats can end up with a wet, non functioning radio receiver - so they reach for the WD40. Big mistake.

The correct procedure is to wash the PCB in denatured alcohol (aka Metho) and then allow to dry in the sun or using hot air.



..... Phil
 
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 7:11:25 PM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote:
whit3rd wrote:
--------------

Their marketing looks like snake oil ... to the best of my knowledge,
none of their competition is any better.

** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices
way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.


Sure, the D100L (red stuff) is a 'cleaner' which dissolves gunk.



** No it is gunk, a mix of snake oil and bullshit.



The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.


** Yawnnnnnnnnnn

One born every minute....


..... Phil
 
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 7:11:25 PM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote:
> whit3rd wrote:

[about Caig]
Their marketing looks like snake oil ... to the best of my knowledge,
none of their competition is any better.

** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices
way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.

Sure, the D100L (red stuff) is a 'cleaner' which dissolves gunk.

** No it is gunk, a mix of snake oil and bullshit.

The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.

One born every minute....

Yes, Phil, you ARE easily fooled. It isn't about the snake oil or the sales
force's farce of literature, and the confusing products (five of them called "DeOxit").
It's about the products. I'm the guy with the milliohm data, and some
idea of which product I'm talking about. You're the one with the sneer.
 
whit3rd wrote:

---------------


Their marketing looks like snake oil ... to the best of my knowledge,
none of their competition is any better.

** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices
way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.

Sure, the D100L (red stuff) is a 'cleaner' which dissolves gunk.

** No it is gunk, a mix of snake oil and bullshit.

The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.

One born every minute....

Yes, Phil, you ARE easily fooled.

** We'll see.


It isn't about the snake oil or the sales
force's farce of literature, and the confusing products (five of them
called "DeOxit").
It's about the products. I'm the guy with the milliohm data, and some
idea of which product I'm talking about. You're the one with the sneer.

** That load of meaningless shit has *FOOL* written all over it.

Your done, go away.


...... Phil
 
Remember: Phil's fulminations are in inverse proportion to the accuracy of his position.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
 
On 5/10/2017 11:23 AM, pfjw@aol.com wrote:
> Remember: Phil's fulminations are in inverse proportion to the accuracy of his position.

I take it that provoking Phil to expel expletives is a sport in this group?

--

Rick C
 
>"** WD-40 and LPS2 are near identical products, same ingredients in the same percentages and both use CO2 as a propellant. "

They smell different. Nearly identical of course, but not exactly identical.
 
On 5/10/2017 11:42 AM, jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
"** WD-40 and LPS2 are near identical products, same ingredients in the same percentages and both use CO2 as a propellant. "

They smell different. Nearly identical of course, but not exactly identical.

Parfum de WD-40

--

Rick C
 
In message <oevcmc$9hi$3@dont-email.me>, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>
writes
On 5/10/2017 11:42 AM, jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
"** WD-40 and LPS2 are near identical products, same ingredients in
the same percentages and both use CO2 as a propellant. "

They smell different. Nearly identical of course, but not exactly identical.

Parfum de WD-40
A dab behind your ears before you go out clubbing will make you
irresistible, and you'll never go home without a smile on your face.
--
Ian
 
On Wednesday, May 10, 2017 at 12:31:14 PM UTC-4, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message <oevcmc$9hi$3@dont-email.me>, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com
writes
On 5/10/2017 11:42 AM, jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
"** WD-40 and LPS2 are near identical products, same ingredients in
the same percentages and both use CO2 as a propellant. "

They smell different. Nearly identical of course, but not exactly identical.

Parfum de WD-40

A dab behind your ears before you go out clubbing will make you
irresistible, and you'll never go home without a smile on your face.
--
Ian

Yes, but what you'll go home with is likely an auto mechanic or pig farmer, of the wrong sex I'm afraid. Any woman that will find WD attractive goes home with other women...
 
On Wednesday, May 10, 2017 at 11:40:31 AM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
On 5/10/2017 11:23 AM, pfjw@aol.com wrote:
Remember: Phil's fulminations are in inverse proportion to the accuracy of his position.

I take it that provoking Phil to expel expletives is a sport in this group?

--

Rick C

Not much sport Rick. "Sport" would indicate some sort of skill or difficulty involved, and there is none when provoking Phil.

But Phil runs hot and cold. Sometimes (well, often) vile (wishing cancer or death on those with whom he disagrees, etc.) sometimes almost charming.

He's bright and knowledgeable, but will NEVER concede when he's wrong. Always fascinating though.
 
On 5/10/2017 1:50 PM, ohger1s@gmail.com wrote:
On Wednesday, May 10, 2017 at 11:40:31 AM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
On 5/10/2017 11:23 AM, pfjw@aol.com wrote:
Remember: Phil's fulminations are in inverse proportion to the accuracy of his position.

I take it that provoking Phil to expel expletives is a sport in this group?

--

Rick C

Not much sport Rick. "Sport" would indicate some sort of skill or difficulty involved, and there is none when provoking Phil.

But Phil runs hot and cold. Sometimes (well, often) vile (wishing cancer or death on those with whom he disagrees, etc.) sometimes almost charming.

He's bright and knowledgeable, but will NEVER concede when he's wrong. Always fascinating though.

Interesting use of the word "fascinating"...

--

Rick C
 
On Wednesday, May 10, 2017 at 6:07:08 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
On 5/10/2017 1:50 PM, ohger1s@gmail.com wrote:
On Wednesday, May 10, 2017 at 11:40:31 AM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
On 5/10/2017 11:23 AM, pfjw@aol.com wrote:
Remember: Phil's fulminations are in inverse proportion to the accuracy of his position.

I take it that provoking Phil to expel expletives is a sport in this group?

--

Rick C

Not much sport Rick. "Sport" would indicate some sort of skill or difficulty involved, and there is none when provoking Phil.

But Phil runs hot and cold. Sometimes (well, often) vile (wishing cancer or death on those with whom he disagrees, etc.) sometimes almost charming.

He's bright and knowledgeable, but will NEVER concede when he's wrong. Always fascinating though.

Interesting use of the word "fascinating"...

--

Rick C


Yes, but *not* inaccurate...
 
ohg...@gmail.com wrote:

-------------------------


But Phil runs hot and cold. Sometimes (well, often) vile
(wishing cancer or death on those with whom he disagrees, etc.)

** I never post that sort of thing just because I disagree.

Find an example and see how WRONG you are.



He's bright and knowledgeable, but will NEVER concede when he's
wrong.

** Find and post an example where you are certain I was wrong.

Bet you cannot find even on.



...... Phil
 
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote:
jurb...@gmail.com wrote:

------------------------


The one thing I noticed about WD40 is when used to clean the old
mechanical tuners in TVs it would detune them until most of it
evaporated, LPS2 was much better for that application.


** WD-40 and LPS2 are near identical products, same ingredients in the
same percentages and both use CO2 as a propellant.

It is *NUTS* to spray any oil bearing fluid onto RF circuitry - oil has a
much higher dielectric constant than air. It therefore adds capacitance
to any coil, wiring, PCB pattern or tuning gang it lands on.

The correct procedure with rotary TV tuners was to apply some WD-40 to a
small piece of paper which is then wedged between the moving contacts
while the tuner is turned. This cleans up the contacts nicely while
preventing any oil getting on the RF coils.

Anecdote 1:

I once had a customer who decided to fix his FM tuner by spraying WD-40
all over the PCB and tuning gang. Afterwards, the stations had moved half
way across the dial.

It took me a over an hour hour, using various solvents to get the oil off
everything and put them back where they were. A tiny bit of WD-40 on the
bearings of the gang fixed the noise he has been getting.

Anecdote 2.

Folk who run RC cars and boats can end up with a wet, non functioning
radio receiver - so they reach for the WD40. Big mistake.

The correct procedure is to wash the PCB in denatured alcohol (aka Metho)
and then allow to dry in the sun or using hot air.



.... Phil

I used both LPS2 and WD40 and I didn't find them similar. LPS more oily and
smells different. LPS1 might be mre similar. CRC 2-26 also seems different.
More oily than WD40. I like it better as a lube.

Greg
 
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:
On 5/3/2017 4:47 AM, Ian Jackson wrote:
You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.

I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if
it's the sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but
are you convinced that the end result is substantially better
than a quick squirt of WD?

As a professional, I don't like things coming back. Period.

As to using WD-40, some time ago, I acquired several 5-tube
table radios at an estate sale. Basically worthless, and with
all the usual age related issues you'd expect. I tried WD-40
on the volume controls. Yes it works (are you paying attention
Phil?)

I just don't feel comfortable using it.

I never had a problem using WD40 on anything, except pots would need more
at some point. Just does not last as a lube.

Greg
 
gregz <zekor@comcast.net> wrote:
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote:
jurb...@gmail.com wrote:

------------------------


The one thing I noticed about WD40 is when used to clean the old
mechanical tuners in TVs it would detune them until most of it
evaporated, LPS2 was much better for that application.


** WD-40 and LPS2 are near identical products, same ingredients in the
same percentages and both use CO2 as a propellant.

It is *NUTS* to spray any oil bearing fluid onto RF circuitry - oil has a
much higher dielectric constant than air. It therefore adds capacitance
to any coil, wiring, PCB pattern or tuning gang it lands on.

The correct procedure with rotary TV tuners was to apply some WD-40 to a
small piece of paper which is then wedged between the moving contacts
while the tuner is turned. This cleans up the contacts nicely while
preventing any oil getting on the RF coils.

Anecdote 1:

I once had a customer who decided to fix his FM tuner by spraying WD-40
all over the PCB and tuning gang. Afterwards, the stations had moved half
way across the dial.

It took me a over an hour hour, using various solvents to get the oil off
everything and put them back where they were. A tiny bit of WD-40 on the
bearings of the gang fixed the noise he has been getting.

Anecdote 2.

Folk who run RC cars and boats can end up with a wet, non functioning
radio receiver - so they reach for the WD40. Big mistake.

The correct procedure is to wash the PCB in denatured alcohol (aka Metho)
and then allow to dry in the sun or using hot air.



.... Phil

I used both LPS2 and WD40 and I didn't find them similar. LPS more oily and
smells different. LPS1 might be mre similar. CRC 2-26 also seems different.
More oily than WD40. I like it better as a lube.

Greg

I want some LPS3 or rustproofing my car parts. I think it might be good on
connectors too.

Greg
 
On 2017/05/11 1:17 AM, gregz wrote:
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:
On 5/3/2017 4:47 AM, Ian Jackson wrote:
You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.

I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if
it's the sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but
are you convinced that the end result is substantially better
than a quick squirt of WD?

As a professional, I don't like things coming back. Period.

As to using WD-40, some time ago, I acquired several 5-tube
table radios at an estate sale. Basically worthless, and with
all the usual age related issues you'd expect. I tried WD-40
on the volume controls. Yes it works (are you paying attention
Phil?)

I just don't feel comfortable using it.


I never had a problem using WD40 on anything, except pots would need more
at some point. Just does not last as a lube.

Greg

Um, why do you think WD-40 is anything but a rust preventative? The rest
is simply marketing hype.

Much like you can lubricate anything with H2O if you want to, but there
are better products DESIGNED for lubrication, etc.

The fact that WD-40 CAN lubricate, doesn't mean it SHOULD. it wasn't
designed for that purpose and so is third or fourth choice at best.

Emergency usage, sure, then clean it off as soon as you can, unles syou
don't want the item to rust. Use it on something that I care about
working reliably, never.

After all - that is why we have brains, so we can think about what we
are doing and apply the best solution.

John :-#(#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:
On 2017/05/11 1:17 AM, gregz wrote:
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:
On 5/3/2017 4:47 AM, Ian Jackson wrote:
You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.

I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if
it's the sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but
are you convinced that the end result is substantially better
than a quick squirt of WD?

As a professional, I don't like things coming back. Period.

As to using WD-40, some time ago, I acquired several 5-tube
table radios at an estate sale. Basically worthless, and with
all the usual age related issues you'd expect. I tried WD-40
on the volume controls. Yes it works (are you paying attention
Phil?)

I just don't feel comfortable using it.


I never had a problem using WD40 on anything, except pots would need more
at some point. Just does not last as a lube.

Greg


Um, why do you think WD-40 is anything but a rust preventative? The rest
is simply marketing hype.

Much like you can lubricate anything with H2O if you want to, but there
are better products DESIGNED for lubrication, etc.

The fact that WD-40 CAN lubricate, doesn't mean it SHOULD. it wasn't
designed for that purpose and so is third or fourth choice at best.

Emergency usage, sure, then clean it off as soon as you can, unles syou
don't want the item to rust. Use it on something that I care about working reliably, never.

After all - that is why we have brains, so we can think about what we are
doing and apply the best solution.

John :-#(#

I think an oil based and mineral spirits based product used like WD40, as
well as Caig Deoxit, will stay on the item to be cleaned longer. Longer
cleaning, better. You can always wash off later with non residue cleaner.
In fact, one of the best cleaners Cramolin Contaclean, says to wash off
after cleaning. There are a number of products for electronics that have a
base carrier and a type of oil, might seem unfair to pick on WD40. Plenty
of non residue cleaners or electronics. The CRC 2-26 somewhat similar to
WD40, says right on can, improves electrical properties, plastic safe. I'm
not seeing much difference in ingredients. There are far fewer only
lubricants, Caig Faderlube being one.

Greg
 

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