R
rickman
Guest
On 5/3/2017 7:22 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.
--
Rick C
It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.
--
Rick C
P
Phil Allison
Guest
Prickman the Liar wrote:
..
....
** The "C" stands for cunt - right ?
And you are so proud of that.
..... Phil
..
...
....
** The "C" stands for cunt - right ?
And you are so proud of that.
..... Phil
P
pfjw@aol.com
Guest
> It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.
Sure is. His fulminations are typically in inverse proportion to the correctness of his position.
I keep WD-40 by the unpressurized gallon, and use it in refillable pressurized aerosol cans filled from my handy compressor. I will rinse all sorts of stuff, even soak stuff in a small ultrasound in WD-40 when I am sure that it is compatible with whatever it is. But in 40 years around it, I have never used it for or relied on it as a lubricant, rust protectant, rust remover or any of many other 'off label' "2,000 uses" supported by many. It is a handy, pretty benign solvent that even when contaminated with old skunge may be used as a safe fire-starter, mixed with kitty-litter and bagged for proper disposal, and any of several other environmentally neutral purposes.
For a fact, it will get _everything_ off an old clock mechanism, and when mixed with a bit of Oleic acid, gets the brass nice and bright (another discussion).
Point being that there are many other, better, no more/less costly preparations for electronic purposes than WD-40 (nor am I including the Caig Laboratories products in this group) that I would go off-label electronically with WD-40. WD-40's virtue is also its bane: It dissolves old skunge and spreads it nice and thin - unless rinsed off thoroughly one gets that varnish-like sticky coating leaving things far worse than before.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Sure is. His fulminations are typically in inverse proportion to the correctness of his position.
I keep WD-40 by the unpressurized gallon, and use it in refillable pressurized aerosol cans filled from my handy compressor. I will rinse all sorts of stuff, even soak stuff in a small ultrasound in WD-40 when I am sure that it is compatible with whatever it is. But in 40 years around it, I have never used it for or relied on it as a lubricant, rust protectant, rust remover or any of many other 'off label' "2,000 uses" supported by many. It is a handy, pretty benign solvent that even when contaminated with old skunge may be used as a safe fire-starter, mixed with kitty-litter and bagged for proper disposal, and any of several other environmentally neutral purposes.
For a fact, it will get _everything_ off an old clock mechanism, and when mixed with a bit of Oleic acid, gets the brass nice and bright (another discussion).
Point being that there are many other, better, no more/less costly preparations for electronic purposes than WD-40 (nor am I including the Caig Laboratories products in this group) that I would go off-label electronically with WD-40. WD-40's virtue is also its bane: It dissolves old skunge and spreads it nice and thin - unless rinsed off thoroughly one gets that varnish-like sticky coating leaving things far worse than before.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Guest
On Mon, 01 May 2017, Micky <mis...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
I never knew WD40 could work with non-metal. Look at this CD unjamming article:
Muskegon Chronicle: Stan Harrison: Jammed DVD/CD tray? Fix it yourself for less than $1 - Mar 4, 2012 It's happened to you. I know it has.
Getting started (middle of article)
Unplug the DVD player and take it to your workshop. Make sure you have a clean surface and plenty of light. A flashlight can help when looking at small parts. You'll need a small Phillips screwdriver, a small flat-blade screwdriver, a cotton swab and some WD-40 lubricant.
First, look at the underside of the player. On some models, there's a slot that might say something like this: "For ejection, insert a pin and push to left." In other words, if the DVD tray is stuck -- like yours is -- stick a straightened paper clip or narrow screwdriver in the slot and push it to the left. Voila! The tray will pop open, and you can retrieve your DVD. If you can get the tray open, leave it partially open. It will make removing the cover of the DVD player easier.
And that's the next step -- removing the cover. Carefully study the case and remove any screws that look as though they're holding the cover in place. Be sure to sort the screws. Tape them to a sheet of paper and label them so you'll be able to properly reassemble the player.
Once you've removed the cover, you should be able to easily slide the tray open. If you can't, don't force it. Forcing the tray could strip or damage the gears, and then you will indeed be buying that new DVD player. Instead, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to press against the cogs on one of the gears beneath the tray. You may have to tip the player on its side and peer into the tray slot with a flashlight. As you push the screwdriver to rotate the gears, the tray should start to slide open.
Replacing the broken belt
Once the tray slides open, you should be able to see a small motor, some gears, and if you're lucky, a broken belt. Remove and keep the broken belt for size. If the belt is missing, take a piece of string and snugly wrap it where the belt should be. Mark and cut the string to size. This will be the size of your replacement belt.
Now for the cheap trick. With the broken belt or piece of string in hand, head for the plumbing section -- that's right, the plumbing section -- of your hardware store or home center. You'll want a rubber O-ring, which is typically used to repair leaky, dripping faucets. Find an O-ring that matches as closely as possible the size of your broken belt or your piece of string. If you can't find an exact match, go for the slightly smaller size.
Put the rubber O-ring in place on your DVD player. If the tray struggles to open or close, the O-ring may be too small. If the next size up is too large, try flexing the O-ring a bit to loosen it up.
Now, using a cotton swab, apply a small amount of WD-40 to the tray guides (groves along the bottom of the tray) for lubrication. This will help the tray glide more easily.
Reattach the cover (you do remember which screws go where, right?) and you're back in business!
Not only have you saved yourself $40, but by not tossing your DVD player into the landfill, you've helped save the planet.
You've just finished watching your favorite movie on DVD, then press the eject button on your DVD player.
Nothing happens. You press again. And again. And again. The tray is stuck. Now what?
You could take your DVD player to the nearest electronics repair shop. But they'd probably charge just as much or more to look at it as it would cost to replace it. So unless your DVD player is still under warranty or you've purchased an extended warranty, you're out of luck.
Instead, you resign yourself to purchasing a new DVD player, one of those inexpensive ones for less than $40. You pry your stuck player open, retrieve your DVD, junk the now-damaged player and head to the nearest big box electronics store.
Save yourself that $40. Sometimes simply unplugging the player for a few minutes will reset the electronics, and you'll once again have a fully functioning DVD player. If that doesn't work, don't give up yet. For a trip to a hardware store or home center and less than $1, you still might be able to fix that stuck DVD tray yourself.
The DVD tray is connected to a series of gears, a motor and a rubber belt. When the motor is engaged, it turns the belt, which in turn moves the gears that open or close the tray. The problem typically is a broken belt. The motor turns on, but with no belt, it can't turn the gears that operate the tray.
Of course, you could try to buy a new rubber belt online -- if you can find one. But even though the cost of the belt itself wouldn't be much, the cost of shipping would hardly make it worth your while.
(Start of article)
So what'll it be -- $1 or $40? There's nothing to lose. Even if you mess up while attempting your own repair, you simply end up buying yourself a new DVD player anyway.
-- http://www.mlive.com/homeandgarden/index.ssf/2012/03/stan_harrison_jammed_dvdcd_tra.html
I never knew WD40 could work with non-metal. Look at this CD unjamming article:
Muskegon Chronicle: Stan Harrison: Jammed DVD/CD tray? Fix it yourself for less than $1 - Mar 4, 2012 It's happened to you. I know it has.
Getting started (middle of article)
Unplug the DVD player and take it to your workshop. Make sure you have a clean surface and plenty of light. A flashlight can help when looking at small parts. You'll need a small Phillips screwdriver, a small flat-blade screwdriver, a cotton swab and some WD-40 lubricant.
First, look at the underside of the player. On some models, there's a slot that might say something like this: "For ejection, insert a pin and push to left." In other words, if the DVD tray is stuck -- like yours is -- stick a straightened paper clip or narrow screwdriver in the slot and push it to the left. Voila! The tray will pop open, and you can retrieve your DVD. If you can get the tray open, leave it partially open. It will make removing the cover of the DVD player easier.
And that's the next step -- removing the cover. Carefully study the case and remove any screws that look as though they're holding the cover in place. Be sure to sort the screws. Tape them to a sheet of paper and label them so you'll be able to properly reassemble the player.
Once you've removed the cover, you should be able to easily slide the tray open. If you can't, don't force it. Forcing the tray could strip or damage the gears, and then you will indeed be buying that new DVD player. Instead, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to press against the cogs on one of the gears beneath the tray. You may have to tip the player on its side and peer into the tray slot with a flashlight. As you push the screwdriver to rotate the gears, the tray should start to slide open.
Replacing the broken belt
Once the tray slides open, you should be able to see a small motor, some gears, and if you're lucky, a broken belt. Remove and keep the broken belt for size. If the belt is missing, take a piece of string and snugly wrap it where the belt should be. Mark and cut the string to size. This will be the size of your replacement belt.
Now for the cheap trick. With the broken belt or piece of string in hand, head for the plumbing section -- that's right, the plumbing section -- of your hardware store or home center. You'll want a rubber O-ring, which is typically used to repair leaky, dripping faucets. Find an O-ring that matches as closely as possible the size of your broken belt or your piece of string. If you can't find an exact match, go for the slightly smaller size.
Put the rubber O-ring in place on your DVD player. If the tray struggles to open or close, the O-ring may be too small. If the next size up is too large, try flexing the O-ring a bit to loosen it up.
Now, using a cotton swab, apply a small amount of WD-40 to the tray guides (groves along the bottom of the tray) for lubrication. This will help the tray glide more easily.
Reattach the cover (you do remember which screws go where, right?) and you're back in business!
Not only have you saved yourself $40, but by not tossing your DVD player into the landfill, you've helped save the planet.
You've just finished watching your favorite movie on DVD, then press the eject button on your DVD player.
Nothing happens. You press again. And again. And again. The tray is stuck. Now what?
You could take your DVD player to the nearest electronics repair shop. But they'd probably charge just as much or more to look at it as it would cost to replace it. So unless your DVD player is still under warranty or you've purchased an extended warranty, you're out of luck.
Instead, you resign yourself to purchasing a new DVD player, one of those inexpensive ones for less than $40. You pry your stuck player open, retrieve your DVD, junk the now-damaged player and head to the nearest big box electronics store.
Save yourself that $40. Sometimes simply unplugging the player for a few minutes will reset the electronics, and you'll once again have a fully functioning DVD player. If that doesn't work, don't give up yet. For a trip to a hardware store or home center and less than $1, you still might be able to fix that stuck DVD tray yourself.
The DVD tray is connected to a series of gears, a motor and a rubber belt. When the motor is engaged, it turns the belt, which in turn moves the gears that open or close the tray. The problem typically is a broken belt. The motor turns on, but with no belt, it can't turn the gears that operate the tray.
Of course, you could try to buy a new rubber belt online -- if you can find one. But even though the cost of the belt itself wouldn't be much, the cost of shipping would hardly make it worth your while.
(Start of article)
So what'll it be -- $1 or $40? There's nothing to lose. Even if you mess up while attempting your own repair, you simply end up buying yourself a new DVD player anyway.
-- http://www.mlive.com/homeandgarden/index.ssf/2012/03/stan_harrison_jammed_dvdcd_tra.html
M
Mike
Guest
In article <oeavu0$pl3$1@dont-email.me>, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
Bizarrely, there are contact cleaners designed for that which DO
cause problems. A can of RS "Switch cleaner" made a bit of a mess of the
inside of the plastic case of an old radio, by melting the black plastic
into runny black goo.
Cleaned the wave-band switch a treat, but I'm glad it only puddled in
the inside corner, and not so much the outside!
--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk
Bizarrely, there are contact cleaners designed for that which DO
cause problems. A can of RS "Switch cleaner" made a bit of a mess of the
inside of the plastic case of an old radio, by melting the black plastic
into runny black goo.
Cleaned the wave-band switch a treat, but I'm glad it only puddled in
the inside corner, and not so much the outside!
--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk
P
Phil Allison
Guest
Peter Fuckwit..@aol.com wrote:
** One can learn a lot from the Wieck troll - by just taking the opposite of everything he posts.
** So fucking what ?
You know fuck all about the topic of this thread and yet insist on posting more meaningless concertos for solo trumpet.
Hurry up and die, you vile autistic old troll.
..... Phil
** One can learn a lot from the Wieck troll - by just taking the opposite of everything he posts.
** So fucking what ?
You know fuck all about the topic of this thread and yet insist on posting more meaningless concertos for solo trumpet.
Hurry up and die, you vile autistic old troll.
..... Phil
P
Phil Allison
Guest
Mike wrote:
** This the one?
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/precision-cleaners-degreasers/0180831/
That is a strong grease solvent, meant for mechanical stuff.
FYI:
Here is a spray can with the title:
"Contact Cleaner and Protector"
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/contact-cleaners/3883814/
Far as I can tell from the data sheets, its WD-40 under another name.
..... Phil
** This the one?
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/precision-cleaners-degreasers/0180831/
That is a strong grease solvent, meant for mechanical stuff.
FYI:
Here is a spray can with the title:
"Contact Cleaner and Protector"
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/contact-cleaners/3883814/
Far as I can tell from the data sheets, its WD-40 under another name.
..... Phil
M
Mike
Guest
In article <e35a11da-efec-41aa-8dd1-21435405e0ed@googlegroups.com>,
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote:
Not that one. It was a *lot* of years back, and his since been
used and chucked. A round can with screw-on lid, and internally a
"reversible" aluminium delivery tube, which you rotated 180' and
poked out through a hole in the lid to use it.
Khaki green print on white. No idea what the RS part code was, but
it was "own branded".
But it was definitely a switch cleaner ... it never damaged a switch
or pot, but it didn't agree with that thermoplastic case
--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote:
Not that one. It was a *lot* of years back, and his since been
used and chucked. A round can with screw-on lid, and internally a
"reversible" aluminium delivery tube, which you rotated 180' and
poked out through a hole in the lid to use it.
Khaki green print on white. No idea what the RS part code was, but
it was "own branded".
But it was definitely a switch cleaner ... it never damaged a switch
or pot, but it didn't agree with that thermoplastic case
--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk
Guest
In orgo labs we used acetone to be sure there was no water left on glassware.
Acetone (spozably) evaporates completely.
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
Acetone (spozably) evaporates completely.
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
Guest
CRC electronics cleaner from Walmart. Exotic cleaners from Allied Electronics
WD is deodorized kerosene.
WD would emulsify heavy deposits n then use CRC removing the WD.
CRC bottles on the shelf used with the pipe are compressed air/solvent tools.
WD is deodorized kerosene.
WD would emulsify heavy deposits n then use CRC removing the WD.
CRC bottles on the shelf used with the pipe are compressed air/solvent tools.
Guest
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 9:20:16 AM UTC-4, avag...@gmail.com wrote:
when cleaning with CRC n pipe, full flow is designed n appliedas the fluid evaps leaving a clean surface but with silicone or WD try an artists paint brush or Q tip .....PCBlaster also. PC asks for a slow down wobbly pin pressure for the first half tank.
when cleaning with CRC n pipe, full flow is designed n appliedas the fluid evaps leaving a clean surface but with silicone or WD try an artists paint brush or Q tip .....PCBlaster also. PC asks for a slow down wobbly pin pressure for the first half tank.
W
whit3rd
Guest
On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 3:32:05 AM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote:
Not true. Caig L260np grease on a sliding connection got me good electrical
contact (about 80 milliohms) for a difficulty with grounding safety on
a product, once.
Their marketing looks like snake oil, but at least some of the products are
useful. And, to the best of my knowledge, none of their competition is any better.
Not true. Caig L260np grease on a sliding connection got me good electrical
contact (about 80 milliohms) for a difficulty with grounding safety on
a product, once.
Their marketing looks like snake oil, but at least some of the products are
useful. And, to the best of my knowledge, none of their competition is any better.
W
whit3rd
Guest
On Saturday, May 6, 2017 at 9:21:13 PM UTC-7, vjp...@at.biostrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
There's better for that, though, because acetone is hygroscopic. It
pulls in water from the air. If you can blow off droplets and bake dry afterward, alcohol
is just as good, and less expensive.
There's better for that, though, because acetone is hygroscopic. It
pulls in water from the air. If you can blow off droplets and bake dry afterward, alcohol
is just as good, and less expensive.
R
rickman
Guest
On 5/8/2017 7:56 PM, whit3rd wrote:
Why is that a concern? It is hygroscopic until it forms the azeotrope.
Even that ratio will still dissolve more water into it and the residue
evaporate readily. No need to blow drops off, acetone is very thin and
in a few seconds evaporates totally.
--
Rick C
Why is that a concern? It is hygroscopic until it forms the azeotrope.
Even that ratio will still dissolve more water into it and the residue
evaporate readily. No need to blow drops off, acetone is very thin and
in a few seconds evaporates totally.
--
Rick C
P
Phil Allison
Guest
avag...@gmail.com wrote:
** CRC is a brand, not a product.
CRC 2-26 is near identical to WD40.
** Utter BULLSHIT !!!!
Rest of you absurd crap deleted.
** CRC is a brand, not a product.
CRC 2-26 is near identical to WD40.
** Utter BULLSHIT !!!!
Rest of you absurd crap deleted.
P
Phil Allison
Guest
whit3rd wrote:
-------------
** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.
...... Phil
-------------
** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.
...... Phil
W
whit3rd
Guest
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 6:35:37 PM UTC-7, rickman wrote:
That's true only while the acetone forms a thin film; when the acetone evaporates the
water remains and beads up into slow-evaporating drops.
Alcohol does just as good a film-producing job, and evaporates slower
so the water is likely to evaporate simultaneously.
For many materials (like those used in printed circuits) the bake-dry is required
anyhow, because the substrate isn't completely water-impermeable. The blow-off
of droplets usually is to remove dissolved dirt, not just the water and solvent.
That's true only while the acetone forms a thin film; when the acetone evaporates the
water remains and beads up into slow-evaporating drops.
Alcohol does just as good a film-producing job, and evaporates slower
so the water is likely to evaporate simultaneously.
For many materials (like those used in printed circuits) the bake-dry is required
anyhow, because the substrate isn't completely water-impermeable. The blow-off
of droplets usually is to remove dissolved dirt, not just the water and solvent.
R
rickman
Guest
On 5/9/2017 8:29 PM, whit3rd wrote:
Not correct unless there is too much water. Acetone forms an azeotrope
with water which evaporates first, ahead of either purer water or purer
acetone. If your acetone absorbs enough water to cause this problem you
need to get your lab out of the river.
If you don't mind waiting, why use either?
The dirt should have been rinsed off. If you have crud remaining in the
rinse water your washer isn't working.
--
Rick C
Not correct unless there is too much water. Acetone forms an azeotrope
with water which evaporates first, ahead of either purer water or purer
acetone. If your acetone absorbs enough water to cause this problem you
need to get your lab out of the river.
If you don't mind waiting, why use either?
The dirt should have been rinsed off. If you have crud remaining in the
rinse water your washer isn't working.
--
Rick C
W
whit3rd
Guest
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:48:29 PM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote:
Sure, the D100L (red stuff) is a 'cleaner' which dissolves gunk. If you
have enough access to scrub, any cleaner would work as well, I suspect. The grease, though,
and the 'enhancer' products (blue, or gold) that leave a film behind, they work.
The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.
Sure, the D100L (red stuff) is a 'cleaner' which dissolves gunk. If you
have enough access to scrub, any cleaner would work as well, I suspect. The grease, though,
and the 'enhancer' products (blue, or gold) that leave a film behind, they work.
The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.
P
Phil Allison
Guest
whit3rd wrote:
--------------
** No it is gunk, a mix of snake oil and bullshit.
** Yawnnnnnnnnnn
One born every minute....
...... Phil
--------------
** No it is gunk, a mix of snake oil and bullshit.
** Yawnnnnnnnnnn
One born every minute....
...... Phil