WD-40 to clean electric contacts?

Luckily I had
purchased a few sets of the lovot blocks and other parts fron the
manufacturer when I bought the windowsn(I worked for the dealer) so I
was able to replace the swollen blocks. No amount of soaking in
alcohol or any othe substance was effective in returning the block to
the proper size. No idea what kind of plastic it was- but it sure
didn't like WD-40.

I've heard of certain materials that swell in the presence of oils. Maybe it wasn't the solvent in the
WD but the mineral oil it contains. IOW, any spray with mineral oil might have had the same effect.

According to the chart at

http://www.plasticsintl.com/plastics_chemical_resistence_chart.html

mineral oil has a "C" compatibility rating for polycarbonate and
polypropylene ("Moderate attack of appreciable absorption. Material
will have limited life.")

For "Lubricating oils (petroleum)" HDPE also gets a "C" rating.

For "white spirit", the plastics listed are all either "A" (no attack,
possibly slight absorption, negigible effect on mechanical properties)
or "*" (no data available).
 
On Tue, 2 May 2017 08:39:44 +0100, Ian Jackson
<ianREMOVETHISjackson@g3ohx.co.uk> wrote:

In message <v6udnTMQQbl1JprEnZ2dnUU7-K-dnZ2d@giganews.com>, John
Robertson <spam@flippers.com> writes
On 2017/05/01 1:24 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
On 5/1/17 3:08 PM, Foxs Mercantile wrote:
On 5/1/2017 12:00 PM, Retired wrote:
According to WD-40's "List of 2000+ Uses" at
https://wd40.com/files/pdf/wd_40_2000_uses_updated_jan_2017.pdf
"• Cleans gunk from electrical contacts" is one of them

And most of the 2000 ideas are marketing hype.


You're a regular party-pooper!


Having cleaned the residue (glue like substance) of WD-40 from many an
electrical unit I would say that it's only practical use is for
preventing rust on tools.

Everything else is hype.

There are FAR better solvents out there than WD-40...and cheaper!

Cheaper than the old can you've had in the tool-shed for the last 20
years, but which has been your saviour on the odd occasion when you've
suddenly needed a general-purpose lubricant / switch cleaner / rusty nut
freer / corrosion inhibitor ?

I think there are 3 topics you're not supposed to talk about at work
(since you have to continue to see those people): politics, religion,
and WD-40.
>>
 
On 5/2/2017 1:34 PM, ohger1s@gmail.com wrote:
On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 11:57:29 AM UTC-4, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
Luckily I had
purchased a few sets of the lovot blocks and other parts fron the
manufacturer when I bought the windowsn(I worked for the dealer) so I
was able to replace the swollen blocks. No amount of soaking in
alcohol or any othe substance was effective in returning the block to
the proper size. No idea what kind of plastic it was- but it sure
didn't like WD-40.

I've heard of certain materials that swell in the presence of oils. Maybe it wasn't the solvent in the WD but the mineral oil it contains. IOW, any spray with mineral oil might have had the same effect.

Does it really matter which component of WD-40 causes the problem or if
other products cause the same problem? The point is that WD-40 is not a
good product to use on electrical devices unless you know the materials
won't be affected by it.

Some people here are in denial about the issue and refuse to consider
that anything other than their own personal experience constitutes
reality. You seem a bit more reasonable.

--

Rick C
 
On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 5:22:46 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
On 5/2/2017 1:34 PM, ohger1s@gmail.com wrote:
On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 11:57:29 AM UTC-4, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
Luckily I had
purchased a few sets of the lovot blocks and other parts fron the
manufacturer when I bought the windowsn(I worked for the dealer) so I
was able to replace the swollen blocks. No amount of soaking in
alcohol or any othe substance was effective in returning the block to
the proper size. No idea what kind of plastic it was- but it sure
didn't like WD-40.

I've heard of certain materials that swell in the presence of oils. Maybe it wasn't the solvent in the WD but the mineral oil it contains. IOW, any spray with mineral oil might have had the same effect.

Does it really matter which component of WD-40 causes the problem or if
other products cause the same problem?

For the purposes of the discussion, I think it does. If most spray elixirs use some sort of petroleum based oil that has a long term affect on certain plastics, then it's not fair to single out WD40 particularly. In any case, I don't recall any other spray solutions that use a synthetic lube that trumpet the fact that they are safe for all plastics. If WD had a known issue with plastics, someone (if not the WD folks) would surely step in with a fix product to steal the sales.


The point is that WD-40 is not a
good product to use on electrical devices unless you know the materials
won't be affected by it.

That's good advice for any external additive. I always test the material in question. Still, other than the fellow with the swollen window blocks (probably an interference fit as it was designed), I think WD-40 will have no affect on electrical connectors.



Some people here are in denial about the issue and refuse to consider
that anything other than their own personal experience constitutes
reality. You seem a bit more reasonable.

I don't even use the stuff...
 
On 02/05/17 21:43, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 02/05/17 12:16, pfjw@aol.com wrote:
WD-40 is not designed to remove or protect against rust either.

From the link you quoted:
"Product Use: Lubricant, Penetrant, Drives Out
Moisture, Removes and Protects Surfaces
From Corrosion"

Why do you believe that "Removes and Protects Surfaces From Corrosion"
does not include removing or protecting against rust? From the Wikipedia
article on "Rust":
"Rusting is the common term for corrosion of iron and its alloys".

. It is
meant to *DISPLACE* dampness in the process of cleaning and
protecting tools *with something else*.

Try the test.

I have, many times. It just works.

Not hear, it doesn't. Very humid and warm, and any
unprotected tools repeatedly get surface rust, despite
treatment with WD-40. I must buy some proper anti-rust
spray, and use it after I've de-rusted everything in
the citric acid bath.
 
On 5/2/2017 5:36 PM, ohger1s@gmail.com wrote:
On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 5:22:46 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
On 5/2/2017 1:34 PM, ohger1s@gmail.com wrote:
On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 11:57:29 AM UTC-4, cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote: Luckily I had
purchased a few sets of the lovot blocks and other parts fron
the manufacturer when I bought the windowsn(I worked for the
dealer) so I was able to replace the swollen blocks. No amount
of soaking in alcohol or any othe substance was effective in
returning the block to the proper size. No idea what kind of
plastic it was- but it sure didn't like WD-40.

I've heard of certain materials that swell in the presence of
oils. Maybe it wasn't the solvent in the WD but the mineral oil
it contains. IOW, any spray with mineral oil might have had the
same effect.

Does it really matter which component of WD-40 causes the problem
or if other products cause the same problem?

For the purposes of the discussion, I think it does. If most spray
elixirs use some sort of petroleum based oil that has a long term
affect on certain plastics, then it's not fair to single out WD40
particularly. In any case, I don't recall any other spray solutions
that use a synthetic lube that trumpet the fact that they are safe
for all plastics. If WD had a known issue with plastics, someone (if
not the WD folks) would surely step in with a fix product to steal
the sales.

I don't know what "fair" has to do with it. Someone suggested using
WD-40 as a contact cleaner and I as well as a couple others pointed out
it can cause problems. Others disputed this. Bottom line it WD-40 is
not safe to use without checking the materials in use. There are many
products that are specifically intended as contact cleaners which don't
cause these problems.


The point is that WD-40 is not a
good product to use on electrical devices unless you know the
materials won't be affected by it.


That's good advice for any external additive.

Exactly. Some here have said WD-40 is universally safe to use when it
is not.


I always test the
material in question.

How exactly do you do that without using it on the product in question?


Still, other than the fellow with the swollen
window blocks (probably an interference fit as it was designed), I
think WD-40 will have no affect on electrical connectors.

I can't say that universally. As I mentioned, a friend used it on an
expensive piece of chemical instrumentation and it froze the controls.
I guess if the problem is caused by swelling the material and the
connector has a very loose fit, it might not cause a problem. But why
take the chance when there are other products that just plain *won't*
cause a problem?


Some people here are in denial about the issue and refuse to
consider that anything other than their own personal experience
constitutes reality. You seem a bit more reasonable.



I don't even use the stuff...

--

Rick C
 
Peter Fuckwit wrote:

WD-40 is not designed to remove or protect against rust either.

** IME it does both and it say so on the can too.


WD-40 is neither voodoo, black magic nor a secret potion.

** Wot an idiot "straw man" to bring up.

Proves you know fuck all about the many uses of WD40.



...... Phil
 
Peter Fuckwit wrote:

Stoddard solvent is aka white spirit.



** Which is refined petrol, aka lighter fluid.



The MSDS for WD-40 is posted previously.

** Irrelevant.

The WD40 company regularly changes the terminology used.

It used to say it was mostly naptha.

The hydrocarbon propellant was changed to CO2, a couple of decades back.

Maybe that explains Global Warming....


..... Phil
 
Dave Platt wrote:

According to the chart at

http://www.plasticsintl.com/plastics_chemical_resistence_chart.html

** Irrelevant - cos charts like that are based on long term contact.

The solvents in WD40 **vanish** after a short time leaving only mineral oil behind.

Do you own tests and you will see nothing happens.

BTW: you are being a PITA troll.


..... Phil
 
Prickman the Liar wrote:



Does it really matter which component of WD-40 causes the problem

** There simply is NO problem.

You bullshitting IDIOT !!!!!


Some people here are in denial about the issue and refuse to consider
that anything other than their own personal experience constitutes
reality.

** They are the sane people.

You are a deluded idiot.





...... Phil
 
Prickman is a damn LIAR wrote:

-----------------------------

Someone suggested using
WD-40 as a contact cleaner and I as well as a couple others pointed out
it can cause problems.

** Massive LIE.

It is simply not possible to "point out" a non-existent problem.

You are PF are clueless mental retards who post nothing but BULLLSHIT.



> Others disputed this.

** Yeah - all the sane ones here.


Bottom line it WD-40 is
not safe to use without checking the materials in use.

** Insane, absurd, fucking crazy BULLSHIT !!!


There are many
products that are specifically intended as contact cleaners which don't
cause these problems.

** MASSIVE LIE !!!!

There are no such products cos there is no such problem.

The term "contact cleaner" is not clearly defined - products just like WD-40 can be called that name.

If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface protection.

FFS ** fuck OFF ** - you WD40 hating LUNATIC !!!



..... Phil
 
On 5/2/2017 10:48 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
protection.

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.

The only things I use WD-40 for are:
1. Hosing a distributor cap and ignition wiring after it's
gotten wet. I used to do this regularly with a '65 Dodge
Slant-six engine.
2. Removing labels from equipment and the adhesive residue.
3. Occasionally spraying to the of my table saw. (It's cast
iron.)
4. Using it instead of ether as a spray starter for 2-cycle
engines. (Like chain saws and the like.) Although I think
they stopped using propane as a propellant.


--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
 
Foxs Mercantile wrote:
Phil Allison wrote:

If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
protection.

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.

** You must be a raving nut case.




..... Phil
 
On 5/3/2017 1:20 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
Foxs Mercantile wrote:

Phil Allison wrote:

If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
protection.

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.


** You must be a raving nut case.

Well thank you Phil.
I just stated what I use.
I do it because it works.



--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
 
In message <oec86t$oit$1@gioia.aioe.org>, Foxs Mercantile
<jdangus@att.net> writes
On 5/3/2017 1:20 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
Foxs Mercantile wrote:

Phil Allison wrote:

If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
protection.

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.


** You must be a raving nut case.

Well thank you Phil.
I just stated what I use.
I do it because it works.

You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.

I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if it's the
sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but are you convinced
that the end result is substantially better than a quick squirt of WD?

--
Ian
 
On 5/3/2017 4:47 AM, Ian Jackson wrote:
You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.

I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if
it's the sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but
are you convinced that the end result is substantially better
than a quick squirt of WD?

As a professional, I don't like things coming back. Period.

As to using WD-40, some time ago, I acquired several 5-tube
table radios at an estate sale. Basically worthless, and with
all the usual age related issues you'd expect. I tried WD-40
on the volume controls. Yes it works (are you paying attention
Phil?)

I just don't feel comfortable using it.


--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
 
Foxs Mercantile wrote:
Phil Allison wrote:

If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
protection.

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.


** You must be a raving nut case.

Well thank you Phil.

** No problem - exposing usenet fakes like you is a pleasure.


I just stated what I use.

** But nobody asked ....


I do it because it works.

** Same goes for everyone here.

But you have fallen, hook line and fucking sinker for one of the sleaziest product scams out.

ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.

You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.

" It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.

The motto of every fuckwit alive or dead.

A word of advice:

FOAD you pathetic damn troll.



..... Phil
 
Ian Jackson wrote:
Foxs Mercantile


Phil Allison wrote:

If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
protection.

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.


** You must be a raving nut case.


Well thank you Phil.
I just stated what I use.
I do it because it works.


You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.

I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if it's the
sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but are you convinced
that the end result is substantially better than a quick squirt of WD?

** The damn shame is that he IS so convinced.

But that is a sad comment about HIM and nothing else.

The famous "one born every minute" observation is a marketeer's byword.




..... Phil
 
On 5/3/2017 5:32 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
** Same goes for everyone here.

But you have fallen, hook line and fucking sinker for one of the sleaziest product scams out.

ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.

You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.

" It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.

The motto of every fuckwit alive or dead.

And THERE is your justification for WD-40.

Well played Phil.


--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
 
Foxs Mercantile wrote:

On 5/3/2017 5:32 AM, Phil Allison wrote:

** Same goes for everyone here.

But you have fallen, hook line and fucking sinker for one of the
sleaziest product scams out.

ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.

You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.

" It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.

The motto of every fuckwit alive or dead.


And THERE is your justification for WD-40.

** You are nothing less than a dead cunt Mr Fox.

Congratulations.




..... Phil
 

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top